M1A Firearm Maintenance: Part 3 Lubrication
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 5 ต.ค. 2024
- As part of Brownells' Firearm Maintenance Series, in this video, one of our gunsmiths goes through step-by-step how-to properly lubricate an M1A. Be sure to check out our subsequent videos on how-to disassemble, clean and lubricate an M1A. For more firearm how-to's or to get the products used in this video visit www.brownellsvi...
I appreciate you guys. Thank you for sharing this information.
I've been told not to use the grease during cold weather because it caused malfunctions. What is your advice for shooting in cold weather. Would you still use the grease or oil
You will still need to use grease even in cold weather. Only when temps reach -10 Fahrenheit do you need to remove the grease and go with something different.
Brownells, Inc. thanks for the information I appreciate it
Thank you, was adding grease in the wrong spots and way too heavy in others
Thinking of sending my M1A Scout Squad to Wright Armory in Phoenix (formally Robar Industries) to have all of the metal components NP3'd. In your opinion is this a good or a not so good idea, as NP3 is a self lubricating finish? Thanks for your thoughts.
My safety is extremely tight. Do you have any suggestions for loosening it up? Thanks for the video.
Any chance I could get a better look at that gun rack in the background?
Can I use Aeroshell 33MS, AR-15 Barrel Nut Grease?
Why grease instead of oil?
Although grease is heavier than oil, grease is used because longevity is in mind. They hardly used light oils back then and cans of grease were common ways to lubricate. In my opinion, they are better than oil because their flash/smoke point is higher than oils. Not only that, when the grease heats up, it will seep into the places it is needed.
@@oldplace5 the grease he is using is only good for 170 Degree F. I have used that grease for decades it is great for certain things. We used to mix other additives into it to help with high heat and also stopping it from drying out. That grease turns to powder after many years of use. Any anti wear lubrication for high heat will work great as long as it's viscosity or amount applies doesn't peed the function. Water resistant is also preferred.
@@StrapDLBStyle I mean no disrespect, data sheet for lubriplate 130-A has a melting point at 200°F.
@@juanguerrero9128 none taken. The problem is the separation. Did you ever open a can of lubriplate and see the oil seoerating from it and have to mix it up? The calcium is a thickener the actual things you want to put in the weapon can break out from the thickener and then the thickener will seam to dry and actually turn to a powder. It's a very old lubricant. The modern 100% synthetic high temp greases are far superior. Even today's modern lithium grease outperforms. We used to mix transmission fluid with the lubriplate in order to help keep the other oils from separating. It was a good assembly grease but for standalone lubrication it's not very dependable. If you are they type of guy who shoots a weapon regularly and cleans it after every shooting and or often. MANY lubricants will work just fine. For me I prefer the 100% modern synthetics. I am also about multipurpose uses. If I can cover a bunch of applications with 1 product that makes me very happy
I lube my M1A with full-syn high-temp wheel bearing grease. Trigger group and recoil spring get Remoil. My pistols get Mobil1 5w30.
Is using CLP exclusively bad?
not an expert myself, but Ive heard from a guy or two its a bad idea to use only CLP. You need a thicker lubricant, like gun grease, to keep things running smoothly
love the Runescape gnome btw lol
The grease and oil used in video are not the best. TW 25b and Mobil 1 0w - 20 work best.
@@ThatDarnTurtle Thanks lol
Can anyone tell me the grease and lube used in this video
Lubriplate 130-A
It's called lubraplate. I use mobile one wheel bearing grease. You don't have to take them down everytime to grease them. Maybe once a year. Or maybe if you get them in a rain storm.
Is that rear sight elevation knob on the wrong side?
Tony Adams
Yes, it does seem to be assembled on the wrong side. The windage knob goes on the ejection/right side and the elevation assembly/knob goes on the left/bolt release side. It is just a technicality, but it does not look good being that this is a pro/gunsmiths video. Gunsmithing is very detail oriented, or at least it should be. One detail done wrong could cause serious injury or death. This is just a rear sight, but if you miss a target that shoots back, like in war, it could cost you your life.
Ever heard of graphite
I used mopo molybdenum on a marin 60 . Lowest friction level known to man, protects at all temps to. Out with the wet in with the dry lubes. Lasts a very long time.
Grease and oil will protect against moisture and corrosion. I don’t think dry lubricants will do that.