thank you . may i make a suggestion on transferring hole locations use transfer punches they come in sets . tap em do not smack em . then follow up with a prick punch
it worked out great!, i was a bit concerned until i saw the featherboards 😄, as you say a few tweaks , the top pressure from another featherboard is a good idea, and you can run yards of moulding, id try putting a small slot in your table and adding a blunt point of hardwood, or a small bearing, you can tighten down to apply a little forward pressure at the point the moulding contacts the bit , but i call that a success✌
THE ROUTER BIT NEEDS TO BE UNDER THE LEVEL OF THE TABLE OTHERWISE YOUR TRAPPING THE WORK PIECE BETWEEN THE BIT AND THE FENCE/TABLE! This could cause the work piece to be ejected like an arrow from a bow. Perhaps show us the table once you have used it and figured it out fully. You were right to be a little fearful of that setup.
I agree with you, but for the profile I need to make and to make sure the material does not shift when routing I needed to put the router bit on top. If I did it the other way the material, making the wood piece stable, would be routed away and the stock would rotate when routing. I do have feather boards in place helping to prevent kick back. Thanks for your comments.
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thank you . may i make a suggestion on transferring hole locations use transfer punches they come in sets . tap em do not smack em . then follow up with a prick punch
it worked out great!, i was a bit concerned until i saw the featherboards 😄, as you say a few tweaks , the top pressure from another featherboard is a good idea, and you can run yards of moulding, id try putting a small slot in your table and adding a blunt point of hardwood, or a small bearing, you can tighten down to apply a little forward pressure at the point the moulding contacts the bit , but i call that a success✌
I like the idea of using bearings, I will have to give it a try. Thanks for the idea and your comments.
THE ROUTER BIT NEEDS TO BE UNDER THE LEVEL OF THE TABLE OTHERWISE YOUR TRAPPING THE WORK PIECE BETWEEN THE BIT AND THE FENCE/TABLE!
This could cause the work piece to be ejected like an arrow from a bow. Perhaps show us the table once you have used it and figured it out fully. You were right to be a little fearful of that setup.
I agree with you, but for the profile I need to make and to make sure the material does not shift when routing I needed to put the router bit on top. If I did it the other way the material, making the wood piece stable, would be routed away and the stock would rotate when routing. I do have feather boards in place helping to prevent kick back. Thanks for your comments.