Making Indexing Plates TIPS
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 22 มิ.ย. 2024
- This is PART 5 of a 8-part series on making indexing plates for a dividing head.
Be sure to watch the other parts for continuity!
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#howtorunalathe#machineshop#howtorunabridgeport#index head#dividinghead#gearcutting#boltcircles - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
No one ever did a better job of instruction in the industrial arts.
Thank you very very very much
For those of you that are "on the fence" about ordering Lyle's videos, I can tell you this. The very spry 82yr old Gunsmith in my area sold me a Southbend Model 9A lathe with several attachments. I didn't have any experience running a manual lathe so I ordered Mr. Peterson's video series for my particular make/model of lathe. I can honestly tell you that I am very pleased with how thorough this video series is and it covers everything from the basic lathe controls, work-holding devices, threading, tapping, reaming, basic turning, facing, taper turning, tool bit grinding, safety procedures, tool-post grinding, boring, milling on a lathe, and much more. I can tell you that these instructional videos are fantastic and there are scads of tips/tricks throughout the videos and the price was fair too. No, I don't know Mr. Peterson and I'm not affiliated in anyway. I'm just a happy customer.
Thank you very much, that is very encouraging to me. I may use your testimonial, without your name, in one of my promos Someday.
Ditto that, I've purchased his Atlas Lathe, Bridgeport Mill, and foundry courses and they are all superb. I've learned so much from Mr. Pete, very grateful!
@@MrUbiquitousTech I almost ordered the "How to run a Bridgeport Mill" series last week last week and l don't even own a manual mill (or CNC mill) and I've never use one. I just have a "thirst for knowledge" and it's fun to learn about something even if I don't have the machine. However, I ended up spending last week's "pocket money" on more tools for my Southbend lathe.
@@mrpete222 Keep up the good work Mr. Peterson and you're welcome to use my name if you like. I will always stand behind a good product.
I had never turned a crank and was able to disassemble, clean,service my 60 year old Atlas 12 inch lathe after seeing Lyles’videos. With the videos I can do most of the basic procedures on the lathe.
If nothing else, it was a good lesson in how to hold down round stock, I learned something today, thanks Mr Pete.
I do love a good chart/table. Clear as mud, but with just enough fiber to get the job done. Great for those sluggish Monday morning projects where you just have to have everything work out right to put a smile on your face!
Yes
Thanks Lyle. You always do a great job explaining the hows and whys. I want to see this, so quit saying i won't watch. My shop teacher did not get so involved with us students. But he still got the safety into our stubborn heads. My brother made a set of three screwdrivers that fit inside itself. I made a cast aluminum belt buckle. That was back in the mid '60's.
Thank you for watching. That is a holdover from teaching high school, were at least half of the class was not listening
Hi Lyle, I was 3rd generation at the old Hardinge Brothers plant in Elmira, N Y. We made the Hardinge PC-55 dividing heads for many years. All of our dividing head plates we made on a old converted HC chucker lathe equipped with an air spindle to drill the holes using master set of plates. Very time consuming and labor intensive. A few years ago Harding had a big auction and one of the machines sold was the old HC set up. It didn't bring much but I didn't have the room for it. I should have bought it! Best regards, Mike Drake, Elmira, N Y
That’s interesting to hear how you did it at one of the worlds greatest machine tool builders.
I watched your video on band saw stand and thought it was fantastic for my machine home shop. I went to my local pawn and bought a Milwaukee deep cut saw, then ordered a table from amozon! Thank you for your thought , can’t wait to get it together and try it!
👍👍👍
Hi Lyle,
I recently did a dividing plate on a turret mill using the DRO, using the hole pattern function which all you need is the centre point, the number of holes and the PCD, hit the go button, and wind the handles to 0,0 and your at your first hole, then the next button and wind the handles to 0,0, and keep going.
It was spot drill, drill, countersink and ream. It's slow on a manual machine but accurate.
I also drilled the backplate with two holes for each of the dividing plate sets of holes that doubled the number of spaces for more options.
Cheers Dennis.
That is an awesome way of doing it. You are lucky to have machinery like that. Merry Christmas
Thanks Mr Pete for this instructional video. My DRO on my manual mill has a function that finds the hole locations on a circle - just select the hole circle with the number of holes then press the next button for each hole and go to 0.00 X 0.00 Y on the readout and drill. I also have a Moore Tool Jig Grinder that can manually locate and grind holes within 0.00005" on location and size.
Have a Merry Christmas.
Wow, that moore Grinder is amazing. Merry Christmas
HI Lyle - I like this series a hole lot. Merry Christmas :)
lol. Merry Christmas
@@mrpete222 :)
Interesting video presented by the shop teacher who can teach. Thank you and Merry Christmas..
Thank you very much, your comment means a lot to me
excited for those wafer stacking blocks. Those look slick as heck.
Yes, coming soon
Mr. Pete222 currently has 222K subscribers-! Congrats Mr. Pete.
Thanks
This took back to my apprenticeship...way back in the beginning of the 70's! We had to back our own tools, jigs, and accessories. The layout was examined by two instructors before we were allowed to punch mark anything, let alone drill.
Great video.
Thanks for the reminisce!
👍👍
Edit: Spreadsheet calculator: docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1bGjV2a27Cu6K9zjxmaCLDo4aj7qGtjkTMnQJ34aYQ_A/edit?usp=sharing
To calculate for any number holes:
put calculator in radians mode
N = number of holes in pattern
h = current hole number
r = radius
x = r * sin (2 * pi * h / N)
y = r * cos (2 * pi * h / N)
7:34 Thanks for this illustration. It does help in the comprehension of where the tooling will go around the circle.
Thanks
A great series and of course I am enjoying every video. Thanks.
👍👍👍
As always a quality video series on making rotary plates, Tubalcain. Definitely would not want to do the coordinate method on a full plate of holes that's brutal.
Wonderful video.
Loved it.
Merry christmas and happy new year!!!.
Thank you, and merry Christmas
Kudos to you Mr. Pete for tackling a very difficult subject and making a video. A few suggestions. In machining school, they taught us to try to always use 3 clamps. First, the part is a lot less likely to move and in case you have to temporarily move one of them, you still have 2 holding the part firmly. The CNC guys would laugh at me when I did hole circles, because I would do one hole at a time. First center drill, then hole size, then tap if needed. They suggested I first center drill but just ticking the hole circle. That way I would go around the circle and check my work. That way if something was wrong, I would just have a small tick on the part, no harm, no foul. Next I would go around the circle again, this time center drilling each hole. Then do my tool change and drill each hole to size. This is quicker because less tool changes and less chance of making a mistake.
Good suggestions, but that would take a long time
That's what I said. Try it. You might be surprised like I was. After working in a shop for 27 years, I would like to think I learned a trick or two ;-)
I have used this method many times, on my bridgeport. With mixed results. God Jul Pete!
👍👍
Great video’s so far in this project, just like to say I’ve watch every minute of them and looking forward to the next ones
Thank you very much, merry Christmas and keep watching
another interesting video Mr Pete, Merry Christmas
Merry Christmas
good morning mr Pete , thanks for the hard work! merry Christmas
Thank you and merry Christmas
Great to see a professional at work, very easy and well instructed
Thank you very much
Thank you Mr. Pete for a wonderful year. Happy Holidays for You and family.
Thank you very much
Pretty cool! Thanks Mr Pete!
👍
Nicely done Mr. Pete! I like that clamping setup too, pretty clever!
Thanks for sharing, have a Merry Christmas!
Thanks
Nice job came out great. Takes some time. Thanks Lyle for sharing, Merry Christmas.
Thanks Randy. I liked your video where you repaired the power drawbar. I thought maybe you were going to replace the hollow pin with a solid pin. But perhaps, it’s best to use the roll pan as a sheer pin. Merry Christmas
@@mrpete222 I think so. Thanks Lyle, Merry Christmas.
THANK YOU...for sharing. Very much enjoyed. Merry Chrismas teacher.
👍👍
Merry Christmas Mr Pete!
And a merry Christmas to you
Thanks for giving us another informative video I learn so much from them
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Good early morning Lyle (Mr Pete). Great subject matter with these dividing head plate videos. Also, thank you for your years of teaching and all your videos on TH-cam. Iv'e learned so much and it has helped improve my life. Very affective teaching. Hope you and Mrs. Peterson have a Merry Christmas and healthy happy new year. 👍
Thank you for watching and commenting. Merry Christmas to you and your family
Enjoyed the video. Merry Christmas and a Prosperous and Joyful NEW YEAR
Thank you very much, merry Christmas
G’day Lyle. This series is of special interest to me as I need to make a set of plates for the dividing head I am building.
Merry Christmas to you and your family.
Peter
👍👍👍
Good morning Mr. Pete, Good video , like you said looks like room for error. Merry Christmas to you and yours.
Thanks
Mr Pete i wish you and your family a very merry Christmas and a happy New year you are a breath of fresh air to us people over 60years old and the teacher in you never stops teaching God bless you from the land down under les
Thank you very much, I’m glad you like my videos and have a merry Christmas
Thanks for using my oil cup. I noticed you was using it. I mentioned the bolt circle option on the newer DRO one thing it does is makes that kind of job a snap. I’ve had a couple of projects lately that I’ve used it on my mill and it works well.
Hi Jim. Yes, I strategically place your oil cup in many of my videos.
Great video and a great review
Thanks
Merry Christmas Mr Pete and family.
Thank you, and merry Christmas to you
Merry Christmas, Lyle ☃️🕑🎄
Thank you and merry Christmas
I'm currently working on an index plate for 11 holes and it will be somehow adapted to a rotary table and hopefully used to cut some splines on a shaft. My DRO does bolt circles so the layout will be pretty easy.
Thank you, my DRO is very old, does not have that capability
Another great video. Very informative and good camera work. I wish I could have been taught by you in my high school shop class. Your students were lucky to have you. Dan
Thank you, wish you had been in my class. But of course, now you are
THANKS AGEN Mr PAET. HAVE A GOOD XMAS.
Merry Christmas
Thanks Lyle😁👍
Merry Christmas Dave, to you and your little wife. Is it cold down there, it’s pretty cold here. But a little better today
Very cool. I didn’t know about these charts in the machinist handbook. I guess i need to break down and get one. Thanks and happy holidays to you & yours. 👌🏽👍🏽
👍
Have done lots of hole patterns with just the machine dials and handbook tables. It's helpful if doing it this way to blue up the work and mark the hole circle with dividers. Set the dividers for the hole to hole chord length and go around marking off each hole. The reason for doing this is that if you've made an error in the number of hand wheel turns or have the slack in the machine's feed screws going the wrong way, you'll be able to see that you've missed something and can back up to the last drilled hole and re-do the moves to the next hole. I always go with the slack in the feed screws so the numbers on the feed dials are increasing to the final position of the hole to be drilled.
It is certainly more tedious than having a DRO with hole layout function, but it's not that bad to just crank the dials (but like threading you have to concentrate on what you're doing without distractions). If the holes have to be located closer than your machine's feed screws are capable of doing you can use dial indicators on the X and Y axis to get within 0.001" of the target position.
Cheers from NC/USA
Thank you for some great suggestions
Went to a shop to pay for an upcoming new machine video and they guy had a jig boring machine. Very cool machine in general. reminded me of a boring head for the mill with a rotary grinder rather than boring bar in it. Sounded like a jet turbine as the grinder spun at like 120,000RPM.
I think I’ve seen one of those ones. But I think it was on a video
My new mill DRO calculates bolt circles for you. After each hole you push a button and turn the table handwheels until the readout zeroes X and Y again. I never knew that the coordinates were in the shop manuals.
My DR role is as old as dirt. It doesn’t do anything extra
Thanks Mr Pete. I just checked my Machinery Handbook, from my father, 10th Edition, 1941. It does not seem to have the table you are using, but does have a table called "Length of Chords for Spacing off the Circumference of Circles with a Diameter Equal to 1." It then instructs you to multiply the number by the actual diameter you are using. I suspect this was the equivalent method and was used to help win the war! Merry Christmas to you and your family.
Thank you, it must’ve been a good method Since we won the war. The handbook changed quite a bit over the years
If you're laying out a bolt hole circle, that's much easier. Set the radius on dividers, scribe the circle, set the chord length, and scribe off the bolt circle.
The higher the gear ratio in the dividing head and the larger the radius, the less any positional error matters. A 0.010" tangent error in a circle with a 2" radius gives a 0° 17’ error, gear that 40:1 and you have an error of only 0° 0’ 26’’.
Lyle , MERRY CHRISTMAS
Before the days of CAD those tables got me out of a bind in a heart beat. Quicker to use than trying to calculate out using trig or logarithms. Remember those? Thanks for sharing Lyle, and Merry Christmas. Ken
I told you what I remember best. I remember hating logarithms. I had books that were nothing but log tables.
This is the most accurate method since it doesn't rely on already made plates. Any error on the original plate by tranfer or direct or angular division copies onto your plate. Any slack or play in your milling machine table is the same slack when you mill your gears or flats on your work so you can allow for it. Any error in the hole pattern of the original dividing head plate transfers to the copy if used to make another
You are quite right. Thank you for a good analysis
Mr. Pete, I own a book entitled "Holes, Contours, and Surfaces" illustrating methods used on Moore Jig Borers and Grinders. The book includes a full set of Woodworth Circular Tables showing rectangular X and Y coordinates up to 99 holes. By plugging in the proper numbers in your calculator and DRO you can precisely locate and machine all coordinates for these holes.
Thanks I was unaware of that book
@@mrpete222 I will send you more complete info on the book including title, author, and copyright year. I'll also share photos if you provide your number. Once you receive these you can share them with your viewers. Thanks again for your great instructional skills.
Hardly anyone remembers what a jig boring mill was. I still have a set of Lufkin jig bore measuring rods around somewhere. Great video. Many thanks.
Thanks
Lyle, this is a very interesting series. Having options in how to create tooling is very helpful. Will you be comparing the accuracy all the plates? I know you tested the first one. It's nice that our Favorite TH-cam shop teacher has so many tooling options. It's Christmas Eve. Wishing you a Happy Christmas, and a Merry New Year. Stay safe, stay well, and praying 2020 will be the best year yet.
No, I am not checking the accuracy. I have beaten the subject to death. There are still two more videos in the can. Merry Christmas
I have the 18th edition of Machinery's Handbook and the bolt circle are on page 78 , Tables for the segments of circles for Radius = 1 on page 72 - 73 , Merry Christmas to you and your family lots of Health and a Happy new year .
Merry Christmas
Hmm, you could mark out on paper all the points you need with help from books before you get near cutting metal. A fairly quick template to follow with a centre punch. If you don't have a dro that is. A lot quicker with a dro....... hopefully
Great video's as always
Thanks
You are very coordinated. 😁
lol
You gonna end up with MANY 15 holes plates for sale... lol
There is also the DRO model that has built in the feature to make bolt circles, this is another practical way to make many accurate holes around a plate.
Not all amateur machinist will purchase one of those DROs, but, if you know someone with one, you can punch in the request and take note of the numbers on the display, this makes a great calculator.
If someone is proficient with a spreadsheet, here is another method to make calculations easier.
Enjoy Xmas time with the loved ones... !!!! 🎅🎁👍
Lots of ways to do any job, merry Christmas
@Pierre's Garage
docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1bGjV2a27Cu6K9zjxmaCLDo4aj7qGtjkTMnQJ34aYQ_A/edit?usp=sharing
Hi Lyle and Merry Christmas. The hole pattern is mirrored in the X axis. Hole 1 is on the X axis. Holes 2 & 15 are the same distance from the X axis (just the sign changes). This goes for holes 3 & 14, 4 &13, 5 & 12, 6 & 11, 7 & 10 and finally, 8 & 9. Looking at your table @ 4:44 in the video, you can see this pattern EXCEPT the X coordinates for holes 7 & 10 are not the same (10 is a typo). They should be .841 for 7 and -.841 for 10. This pairing also goes for the Y axis, but since they are not mirrored like the X axis, the signs are the same.
Did you hear the quiver in Mr Pete's voice, when he said his wife typed those number's for him. That's because now, he has to take her out for dinner. We're not talking McDonald's. LOL Merry Christmas & Happy Holiday's to you & Family Mr. Pete
Yes thanks
Somehow I expected you to use the bolt hole circle function on you DRO. Much easier. That must be coming up next video.
My Dro Is much much too old to have that function
Day don come no bettuh; and dat be ONLY from our "Mr Pete". May Jesus continue to enhance the gifts given to this incredible man; that came from Jesus in the first place. Believe it or not! Praise His Holy Name.
Thank you, brother in Christ. Merry Christmas to you and your family
@@mrpete222 And to your precious family too. For if it was not for Jesus, NOTHING would be. Amen.
Mr. Peterson, at 2:45 you say: "But again, why would you want to do the math, I wouldn't even even know how to do it off hand."
(raises hand) Oh, sir, sir, I know this one, can I say it?
It may be a bit of work depending on the number of holes but it's not really hard to do.
First you divide 360 degrees by the number of holes you want. For example if you want 30 holes, the angle between them is 12 degrees.
With a calculator take the cosinus and sinus of each angle around the circle. So in our example you will have 30 (cosine, sine) pairs.
hole #1 @ 0 deg: (cos = 1, sin = 0)
hole #2 @ 12 deg: (0.9781, 0.2079)
hole #3 @ 24 deg: (0.9135, 0.4067)
etc. until you reach
hole #30 @ 348 deg: (0.9781, -0.2079)
So the cosine values will be your X coordinates, the sine values will be the Ys, assuming the radius of the circle is 1.
Then you just multiply all your sines and cosines by the actual radius (not the diameter) of your layout circle to get the real coordinates for your work.
A DRO's or CNC's machine coordinate system often has its origin (where X=0 and Y=0) on the far (upper) right instead of the near (bottom) left of the table. In that case you may need to invert your positive coordinates to negatives and vice versa. Also depending on where you want to start drilling you could start counting not at 0 degrees but at any angle position of your choice.
Calculating coordinates like this could be a fun passtime with notepad and pocket calculator at the kitchen table. Or make one of the younger family members do it for you, they can probably use the trigonometry exercise.
Of course CAD & CAM make all this work unnecessary but I'd argue people still need to understand the underlying principles to be competent users of such software. And a CNC programmer or operator certainly needs to understand coordinate systems before they punch The Green Button.
Thank you, you did a lot of math
@@mrpete222 It's actually not a lot of math, basically just high school level trigonometry and some calculations that must be repeated a number of times. If one had to make a complete dividing head plate with multiple circles of indexing holes, it would indeed be quite boring this way. But still doable, if a person is motivated and/or doesn't have access to the methods you have shown in your previous videos.
There's a really good book titled 'Dividing' by Harold Hall. I found mine on Amazon. He describes the calculation formula
for this purpose. He also explains how to calculate using computer spread sheet programs such as Microsoft 'Excell'.
I thought this was such a fascinating subject that I actually learned how to use Excell playing around with calculating
bolt hole circles just for fun & possible needed knowledge for the future.
Ohhhjhh Mr Peat my goodness. My head is spinning. M
If one ever need to do a hole count and can't find the table for it, recall how the unit circle (radius 1, centered at (0;0) ) relates to the sine and cosine of the angle of a line through (0;0) counterclockwise from the positive x-axis. Sine is read on the y, and cosine on the x, axis of the point where the line intersects the circle.
So for M holes on a radius R, first (starting on 0) hole on the positive x-axis, stepping N through 0 to M-1, with (0;0) being the centre of the plate.
X and Y coordinates of hole N are:
X(N) = R * cos(360*N/M), Y(N) = R * sin(360*N/M)
A spreadsheet would save on typing, and typing mistakes, compared go a kalkylator...
This is way beyond most people, but thanks
Good Morning from the UK. Does your DRO not have a bolt circle facility, I used it on mine , then you do not need any of those numbers. I made 3 plates to go with my Rotary Table. Thank-you for all your video's, I have also made 2 Float Lock Vices & found them to be most useful. Happy Christmas to you & your family!
My DVR all is 45 years old. It had no extras. Merry Christmas
I bought a cheapish chinese dro for my mill and it does have many good features like that, pcd's, pocket milling, drilling holes at an angle to an axis. Brilliant and really make even a manual machie much more versatile.
It can also be a big help to layout your hole pattern with caliper and scale before you start drilling. Mark where the hole is supposed to be with a felt tip circle. While this is not accurate at all it will show any errors in your numbers visually on the part. A bit of a reality check on your math. Then when you drill the actual holes by the readout on the DRO, if you're not drilling very close to where you marked - you're doing it wrong.
Thank you, that is mighty good advice
The math here is pretty easy. X is just the radius times the cosine of the angle, Y is the radius times the sine of the angle, and the angle is 360° divided by however many holes you have. I.e.:
(x,y) = r × (cos 360°/n, sin 360°/n)
Thanks
Seems that the old handbook filled itself with sine and cosine tables but with the factors for each set of holes. A little math would have sufficed. :)
Alan
Fwiw the math on the is trivial. In a previous video you already figured out the angles for each hole. From there the numbers are just sin and cos of those angles.
This may seem easier to you, LOL but this is rocket science for the masses.
@@mrpete222 Yeah it's sad that our educational system has gotten to this point.
6:16 Love the Peterson Select-a-hieght riser block!
Is that the magnetic model?
Edit: Silly me. The magnetic ones are strictly for nonferrous machining. DUH!
I did not know they had a name. Watch for a video where I make a set
Surprised you didnt make an arbour that used the three holes.Held in the chuck could have made drilling and centering easier with packing behind to support.
Like I say, there are 100 ways to do any job
for excel X = 0.5*COS(RADIANS(90-( I *24))) and Y = 0.5*SIN(RADIANS(90-( I *24))) where I = 0, 1, 2 … 14 for your calculator take out the radians conversion
Holy mackerel
Math not that difficult for hole circles. Basically right triangle trigonometry. The radius of your bolt circle is the hypotenuse of the triangle. Then it is a matter of using the sine and cosine formulas to find the opposite and adjacent sides depending on the angle which become your x and y coordinates. But a lot of DRO’s have bolt circle functions built in. Thanks for making the video.
Thank you for watching
Moore Jig borers with the air bearings in the spindle ? They are Works of art and most likely obsolete, like everything else that does not have a computer strapped to the side of it.
Yes
The math is easy for anyone who has had a first lesson in trigonometry. Rather than explaining it, I figured it would be more helpful if I put together a web page that did the calculations:
marknahabedian.github.io/DesignWithSVG/dividing_plate/dividing_plate.html.
That page let's you specify multiple dividing circles, gives the X and Y coordinates for each hole and provides a drawing.
I didn't design in mounting holes, but as long as those are regularly spaced at the same distance from the center they can be spotted by setting the innermost dividing circle to the needed radius with the right hole count.
I did some simple hand testing in Google Chrome. There might be some buggy edge cases or update and display issues in other browsers. If you have problems with it, please file an issue on GitHub.
I wish you and your family the best for the coming year.
Thank you very much for that. I hope some viewers will benefit. Happy New Year’s to you and your family
Lyle,
Speaking of Moore Tool Company's jig bores for accurately locating & machining holes similar to what you did in this video, Moore Tool _still_ offers their two books
"Foundations of Mechanical Accuracy" by Wayne R. Moore
and
“Holes, Contours and Surfaces” by Richard F. Moore
at .
Both books, new from Moore Tools, cost much less than what you _might_ pay on Amazon or eBay, depending on the seller. I prefer the printed versions, but you can also find PDFs of these books online -- I checked out the PDFs before buying my copies to ensure they were what I wanted.
Thank you very much, I will check that out
I've done a lot of hole patterns in my career. It's easier to always dial positive on your dials. So what I've done is to use 10 instead of zero for the center of my hole in X axis. And 6 (because it's the center of travel for Y axis) instead of 0 for Y axis. That way, all my numbers are in the positive position. For instance instead of having a hole in the negative one inches and a whole at the positive one inch position , you would have a hole at 9 inches and a hole at 11 inches (10 inches being the center line of your part in X axis) or a hole at 5 inches and 7 inches ( 6 inches being the center line of your part in Y axis).
Great tip, Robert!
Very good idea. I normally do not like negative numbers myself. On the rectangle or stock, I always start at the lower left-hand corner.
@@mrpete222 the other thing that I did (not having digital read outs) I made T nuts for the T slot on the front of the machine then I took a yardstick cut it to 24 in Long and put holes in it so that I could a fix it to the front of the machine on the x-axis. Now I have a scale I can adjust so I can set a 0. That eliminates having to count turns.
When I ever get my milling masheen. And dro. I think I will make many of the things you have shone us/me. It will be highly unlikely I will ever make a deviding plate. But you never know what the future holds. M
You never know, merry Christmas
@@mrpete222 And a merry Christmas to you. M.
My favorite part about using this method is if you are starting from the blank you can accurately do all the holes without needing to do any indicating in as you can do it all in one setup.
Yes
Yes but you have to be careful to accurately centre the blank to the spindle. If not centred correctly the hole wont line up with the plunger
Yeah, that method wouldn't work for me. I would probably spend more time at the TIG welder filling in holes and moving them than making actual progress. Nice work, though Mr. Pete! As always.
lol