I normally do the "one over and the rest under" tecnique for all strings on my Les Paul, which works well for me. The capo tip is solid gold for archtop. Thank you.
...having strung literally more than a thousand guitars for live pro shows in arenas, theatres, clubs and stadiums ( for more than 20 years, lest anyone think this method improper or unsustainable)...let me suggest that the 'lock' on the plain steel strings is really not necessary to maintain proper tuning. What it WILL do is make it extremely difficult to remove the string, or in my case, replace the string quickly in the unlikely event it might break during a performance. In all of the years of touring and the thousands of performances and guitars, I can safely attest that if the guitar is properly set up, the strings don't break...I'd estimate 4 or 5 strings required fast replacement during an actual performance in all my time as a guitar tech... The over/under was never a priority either. Simply winding the string under - or from the bottom of each post to it's top - will easily maintain more than enough tension to prevent slipping, even on bends of more than a whole step. Properly stretching the strings once they are secured in this manner is as important if not more so than the wind. I totally agree with your method of pulling the string back a fret or two gradually as you move from the heavier strings to the high E, as more winds around the post on these plain strings works best, has been my experience. I enjoy your videos and narration immensely, please allow me to interject on a subject that I actually do have some expertise with. Thank you sir, with all due respect. Hope this helps some players out there...
Same story here, 30 year tech. I will whole heartedly endorse the above statement and add this: we would joke when a guitar came in with a lock twist that " this guy must not change his strings very often" also that a set of nickel strings has a life span of about 6 playing hours depending on your grip . Phosphors/Bronze type strings maybe less, especially if you're on a worship team, If you don't believe me look at the underside of a wound D or G after a couple of months at the dimples left by your praise. Love your content I always learn something plus it puts me back in the saddle listening to an amp tech.
big agree except for the 'from the bottom of the post to the top' I am not sure I understand; I think winding down is better to get behind the nut break angle.
I suppose it depends on the guitar somewhat, but if I wound my Tele that way the break angle would be totally messed up. Getting the correct number of winds is really important, especially on the G.
The single wind over with the rest under type lock is what we were always told, to be known as: "the Gibson wrap". This is the method I always used in my gigging days on my Gibson LP as well as my acoustic guitars, and it never failed me. So long as new strings were pre-stretched immediately after installation.
This is how I did it for years when I was a guitar tech at a local shop, and how I still do it decades later on all my own stuff. The one thing I do differently is I pre-cut the strings and put the top wrap on manually to save time instead of having to spin the tuning key. I cut the strings one tuning key spacing length on the wound strings and two key spacing lengths on the unwound, then leave about 1/2" sticking out when I stick the string through and wind the top wrap. You really don't need a lot with the locking wrap. When I see those dumb knot winds I wanna rip my eyeballs out.
Many ways to skin this cat for sure. I go one over and the rest under dang near to the bottom of the post. Helps break angle over the nut on strats & teles and I never have string slippage.
I’m self taught to use this method except backwards. I wrap the string around the post 2 or three times and then tuck the string through the post so that it goes under one wrap as it goes comes out of the post. The problem learning this way is that you can’t really do the same with slotted tuners. I’ve acquired three guitars in the last few years with slotted tuners and I still don’t have it down yet, even though they’re supposed to be easier, allegedly Schaller style locking tuners make it really easy. I have a strat that I can change strings on really fast it I need to
Personally that lock wrap gives me fits when I’ve encountered them. I bought a new Martin last year and they had all the strings installed like that. Grrr. I’ve found one wrap above and 3-5 below depending on plain or wound works great for me. I use 56-62 for low E so sometimes I can’t get a 3rd wrap…. There is definitely no “right” way, but there are plenty of wrong ways!
I do the same except that when I have the hole parallel to the nut I leave enough slack for the string to reach the opposite post before starting to wrap the string.
be interested on your take for a fender headstock without a string tree for the D and G. I had my strat back from refret and found the luhtier had wound quite a few more on the D compared to any others - he said it was to maintain the same nut angle. It certainly stays in tune fine -even with trem - but I'd never seen that before - until recently saw Zak do it as well.
I think your luthier and Zac are correct. The D and G need more winds to keep the angle correct - the issue is the G if you use the trem - you want enough winds for a correct behind the nut angle but the more winds the more likely you are to having tuning issues with the trem. It's a balancing act.
@@PsionicAudio I’d never really sensed a problem over many years the way I had done it - but it does seem to have a slightly different tensile feel that I like and I guess it removes possible wolf tones
I do it similarly, although I just do the “1 wind over, the rest under”- thing on the higher strings too. Also I kink the string like you did on the first string when winding all of them. I like to have a few more winds on the higher strings. But this method is very respectable.
I used to do it that way but for the last year or so I just do 4-5 wraps on the plain strings, 3 wraps on the D, 2 wraps on the A and low E. What I really prefer are split shaft vintage tuners... easier to gauge the number of wraps when cutting before wrapping
I just restrung my casino almost the same way but 'one under, one or more over' so the last wind is near the top... I figured less of a break angle the better for tuning stability... Next time I'll do it your way. Cheers.
I don’t have a player series, so no. Next Strat I get in with regular tuners maybe though I don’t work on a lot of guitars. Mostly just for friends. My Strats have locking staggered tuners, so can’t do a general video with them.
May I recommend an even more definite Z bend through the hole so the strings really double lock against both hole edges: you shouldn't need to do any tying with this technique on any string stiff enough to keep kinked (12 thou' and over)
I hear people whine a lot about gibsons/epiphones staying in tune... if you take the time to put the strings on correctly, its rarely an issue. and I play really hard. Gibsons are very susceptible to temperature changes though, so if you also take your guitar out of its case, at least an hour before show time, again the issues are mitigated. Mostly though try and get a minimum of 2 full wraps around the tuner, 3 is better and keep them clean and even no lumps or loops, as for the locking method? I don't know if its even necessary, other then the pegs are rather short, so getting a full 3 wraps is tough without wrapping the first over the top of the hole... at least on the low E and A strings which drives me nuts cause it doesn't look good lol, after market tuners generally have taller pegs... anyway.. rant over.
@@PsionicAudio That's never been a problem for me (50+ years of changing strings). I simply cut the string short enough that the ends don't reach the wood. Thankfully, we're all different, so it's "up to you." Keep up the great content. 👍
How can you be a really good guitarist and put your strings on like that..it doesn't make sense......and thank you for showing the right way to string...I've seen some crazy stringing theory... all kinds of wacky impossible knots lol.. again thank you for showing us the better way to a fix as you do things as with all your stuff...............
I completely, totally and unequivocally disagree with how you string a guitar. It's just so completely wrong.. The guy backline here he knows what hes talking about you should listen to him. I played for a good living for a long time in my life three and four nights a week and I hate dirty old strings. I never had to worry about strings breaking or any of that stuff. Wrapping strings in weird ways at the head is a real good way to get string breakage.
I normally do the "one over and the rest under" tecnique for all strings on my Les Paul, which works well for me. The capo tip is solid gold for archtop. Thank you.
...having strung literally more than a thousand guitars for live pro shows in arenas, theatres, clubs and stadiums ( for more than 20 years, lest anyone think this method improper or unsustainable)...let me suggest that the 'lock' on the plain steel strings is really not necessary to maintain proper tuning. What it WILL do is make it extremely difficult to remove the string, or in my case, replace the string quickly in the unlikely event it might break during a performance. In all of the years of touring and the thousands of performances and guitars, I can safely attest that if the guitar is properly set up, the strings don't break...I'd estimate 4 or 5 strings required fast replacement during an actual performance in all my time as a guitar tech... The over/under was never a priority either. Simply winding the string under - or from the bottom of each post to it's top - will easily maintain more than enough tension to prevent slipping, even on bends of more than a whole step. Properly stretching the strings once they are secured in this manner is as important if not more so than the wind. I totally agree with your method of pulling the string back a fret or two gradually as you move from the heavier strings to the high E, as more winds around the post on these plain strings works best, has been my experience.
I enjoy your videos and narration immensely, please allow me to interject on a subject that I actually do have some expertise with. Thank you sir, with all due respect. Hope this helps some players out there...
^this. 👍🏻
Same story here, 30 year tech. I will whole heartedly endorse the above statement and add this: we would joke when a guitar came in with a lock twist that " this guy must not change his strings very often" also that a set of nickel strings has a life span of about 6 playing hours depending on your grip . Phosphors/Bronze type strings maybe less, especially if you're on a worship team, If you don't believe me look at the underside of a wound D or G after a couple of months at the dimples left by your praise. Love your content I always learn something plus it puts me back in the saddle listening to an amp tech.
big agree except for the 'from the bottom of the post to the top' I am not sure I understand; I think winding down is better to get behind the nut break angle.
I suppose it depends on the guitar somewhat, but if I wound my Tele that way the break angle would be totally messed up. Getting the correct number of winds is really important, especially on the G.
This wasn’t for a Tele/Strat.
Whoa, this makes the process so much faster, and the guitar keeps tune right away. Thanks Mr. Audio!
The single wind over with the rest under type lock is what we were always told, to be known as: "the Gibson wrap". This is the method I always used in my gigging days on my Gibson LP as well as my acoustic guitars, and it never failed me. So long as new strings were pre-stretched immediately after installation.
Every time I have to restring a guitar that has those "knots" I curse whomever did that.
This is how I did it for years when I was a guitar tech at a local shop, and how I still do it decades later on all my own stuff. The one thing I do differently is I pre-cut the strings and put the top wrap on manually to save time instead of having to spin the tuning key. I cut the strings one tuning key spacing length on the wound strings and two key spacing lengths on the unwound, then leave about 1/2" sticking out when I stick the string through and wind the top wrap. You really don't need a lot with the locking wrap. When I see those dumb knot winds I wanna rip my eyeballs out.
Great vid. All these years I’ve been guessing how much string to leave for winding. I’ll be using fret markers going forward! 👍
So helpful. I usually go for locking tuners. But, many of my guitars have vintage tuners.
Thank you for all the instructional videos. Your a very good teacher. 👍
Thanks for the tip and reminder to hug my fenders with the split tuners when I get home tonight.
On my Floyd Rose equipped guitars I put the ball end through the tuners.
Many ways to skin this cat for sure. I go one over and the rest under dang near to the bottom of the post. Helps break angle over the nut on strats & teles and I never have string slippage.
I’m self taught to use this method except backwards. I wrap the string around the post 2 or three times and then tuck the string through the post so that it goes under one wrap as it goes comes out of the post.
The problem learning this way is that you can’t really do the same with slotted tuners. I’ve acquired three guitars in the last few years with slotted tuners and I still don’t have it down yet, even though they’re supposed to be easier, allegedly
Schaller style locking tuners make it really easy. I have a strat that I can change strings on really fast it I need to
Thank you so much for this. It will help me restring my Les Paul the correct way.
Personally that lock wrap gives me fits when I’ve encountered them. I bought a new Martin last year and they had all the strings installed like that. Grrr. I’ve found one wrap above and 3-5 below depending on plain or wound works great for me. I use 56-62 for low E so sometimes I can’t get a 3rd wrap…. There is definitely no “right” way, but there are plenty of wrong ways!
that capo trick works well with bigsby's too
I do the same except that when I have the hole parallel to the nut I leave enough slack for the string to reach the opposite post before starting to wrap the string.
I used to use this method, but I switched a few years ago to the Bill Baker method, which I find much easier and just as stable.
be interested on your take for a fender headstock without a string tree for the D and G.
I had my strat back from refret and found the luhtier had wound quite a few more on the D compared to any others - he said it was to maintain the same nut angle. It certainly stays in tune fine -even with trem - but I'd never seen that before - until recently saw Zak do it as well.
I think your luthier and Zac are correct. The D and G need more winds to keep the angle correct - the issue is the G if you use the trem - you want enough winds for a correct behind the nut angle but the more winds the more likely you are to having tuning issues with the trem. It's a balancing act.
@@PsionicAudio I’d never really sensed a problem over many years the way I had done it - but it does seem to have a slightly different tensile feel that I like and I guess it removes possible wolf tones
I was very lucky to have been shown by my housemate how to string a guitar properly in the early days of my guitar playing.
I do it similarly, although I just do the “1 wind over, the rest under”- thing on the higher strings too. Also I kink the string like you did on the first string when winding all of them. I like to have a few more winds on the higher strings.
But this method is very respectable.
I used to do it that way but for the last year or so I just do 4-5 wraps on the plain strings, 3 wraps on the D, 2 wraps on the A and low E. What I really prefer are split shaft vintage tuners... easier to gauge the number of wraps when cutting before wrapping
I just restrung my casino almost the same way but 'one under, one or more over' so the last wind is near the top... I figured less of a break angle the better for tuning stability... Next time I'll do it your way. Cheers.
Winding up can cause too little break angle or the strings want to creep up on the post (primarily only an issue with a trem).
The one over, two/three under way has never failed me.
Can you please do a video on how to string a Fender Stratocaster? Current player series made in Mexico
I don’t have a player series, so no. Next Strat I get in with regular tuners maybe though I don’t work on a lot of guitars. Mostly just for friends. My Strats have locking staggered tuners, so can’t do a general video with them.
Oh yes -- been doing this for years except on locking tuners.
Interesting but difficult to see the high E loop being done, I’d like to see a diagram version ( like you see with knotting rope)
Thank you!
May I recommend an even more definite Z bend through the hole so the strings really double lock against both hole edges: you shouldn't need to do any tying with this technique on any string stiff enough to keep kinked (12 thou' and over)
Off-subject, but any update on the Excalibur?
I’m getting two test plates from a new vendor soon. If all goes well it will resume.
Thank you. 😊
Wrap around the pole 3 times. Put thru hole. wraps underneath. Tighten, stretch the crap out of them.
I hear people whine a lot about gibsons/epiphones staying in tune... if you take the time to put the strings on correctly, its rarely an issue. and I play really hard. Gibsons are very susceptible to temperature changes though, so if you also take your guitar out of its case, at least an hour before show time, again the issues are mitigated. Mostly though try and get a minimum of 2 full wraps around the tuner, 3 is better and keep them clean and even no lumps or loops, as for the locking method? I don't know if its even necessary, other then the pegs are rather short, so getting a full 3 wraps is tough without wrapping the first over the top of the hole... at least on the low E and A strings which drives me nuts cause it doesn't look good lol, after market tuners generally have taller pegs... anyway.. rant over.
use locking tuners
In over 40yrs of playing I've never wrapped a string around to lock and I've never had a string slip.
PSA: Bend the cut end of the strings downward to help prevent them from
snagging on clothing or poking into your hand during handling.
But that can scratch the headstock. I heal much faster than a guitar does. ;)
@@PsionicAudio That's never been a problem for me (50+ years of changing strings). I simply cut the string short enough that the ends don't reach the wood. Thankfully, we're all different, so it's "up to you." Keep up the great content. 👍
Capo is a good trick !
But sorry, I didn’t see anything about the full wrap ...
No…no! even winds with 3 or 4 wraps! that’s it! for any reason or reasons! thanks for listening- one of my favorite u tube spots…peace
I'm using exclusively locking tuners on all my guitars without any problems.
Seem like you're just trying to string us all along. 😛
How can you be a really good guitarist and put your strings on like that..it doesn't make sense......and thank you for showing the right way to string...I've seen some crazy stringing theory... all kinds of wacky impossible knots lol.. again thank you for showing us the better way to a fix as you do things as with all your stuff...............
Dude... It got a bit complex at the end. Can you redo the video without using big words like 'up' or 'down'?
high E out of focus
I completely, totally and unequivocally disagree with how you string a guitar. It's just so completely wrong.. The guy backline here he knows what hes talking about you should listen to him. I played for a good living for a long time in my life three and four nights a week and I hate dirty old strings. I never had to worry about strings breaking or any of that stuff. Wrapping strings in weird ways at the head is a real good way to get string breakage.
What’s your stance on mustard and donuts?
@@PsionicAudio I tell you about something I know about instead you make a smarmy wise crack. It says a lot about you.
That guy is an bonehead…..wait….it’s me…
Nawp I'll take locking Hipshots. Best tuners on earth.
Ew no. Unless you’re playing metal or something
@@marcospintor1333Well spotted. I play mostly "or something."
I just wish I knew what it was.
@@michaelmoore7975 Ha!