Very good walkthrough. My Lexus was getting a suspension lower arm change and they wanted to do a subframe alignment. So I got here to see what’s the whole point of doing this. Very nice video, very good explaination. Thank you very much
Thanks for the timely response. Figureitauti has great content and has provided me with valuable information on multiple occasions. For me , Spending $100.00 on a vag 3393 when you most likely have a long socket of the same dimensions seems careless. But, some people work harder for their money than others. lol
Never knew about that alignment tool, seen the holes and it makes sense now. For your alignment make sure they follow to correct raised toe procedure, basically camber caster toe is set, then the front end is raised 30mm and there is a secondary toe adjustment done by moving the outer tie rods up or down in the knuckle. Thats why book time is 2 hours for a b5/6/7 front end alignment.
I did this with a long socket (forgot the size) after I lowered the subframe to replace the oil pump and motor mounts but I should really buy new bolts. Good video.
Didn't know about these. I actually found the video because I thought there was something missing there like a bushing. Anyway, mine are very misaligned, and I mean over 1cm. Will have to look into this, thanks for the video.
That why these cars almost never need alignments. I've hit deer in my S4 and previous owners hit a tree and needed a upper fender support. Car drives straight as an arrow 160+
Hey thanks for the video. Always helpful. Would you know if this tool works on the B8 as well? Manual says to mark with a pen before removing the subframe but I didnt know. They dont mention anything about this tool for the B8
Please can you detail the part numbers for the subframe bolts. I am replacing my engine mounts and want to do the bolts and alignment at the same time. Thanks
I’ve recently replace the engine mounts on my 2004 volkswagen passat 2.8l v6 (B5.5) and I have to realign my subframe as well. I just dont know how the heck im supposed to move each “layer” (subframe and engine mount holes) independently. I seen you were using a dead blow hammer, but where on the vehicle are u using it? My car has been in the garage for the last 13 months while I have been replacing a whole slew of components and shes finally complete but I cant drive her until I do this alignment. Ive been tempted to have AAA tow it to the Dealership for their $100 alignment. At the same time I would love to keep that $ and just do it myself since I have done SO MUCH on her myself. By the way I very much appreciate your videos! -Michelle 😎
Hey Michelle - Thanks for watching and congrats on getting so far with your project. I don't have a perfect answer for you because it's all just a dance between leverage and friction. You might need some pry bars (I just bought a set of Milwaukee H-beams geni.us/milw-4pc-pry-bar and really like them), maybe a jack push in the right spot; whatever gives you the strength to shift the layers. Plus, there's obviously a number of bolts on both sides of the car that will need to be loose and may not be limited to just the ones that hold the frames to the chassis. For example, your transmission may also be connected to the subframe via mount + bracket...so really it's all an exercise of tracing what connects to what and applying pressure. To answer your question, I was hammering directly on the circular part of the subframe that holds the subframe bushing. It took awhile to finesse.
@@FigureItAudi You know, part of me was expecting an answer like this. Yet the other part was REALLY hoping for a simple answer. 😆 I should know better than that by now tho… Nothing is a simple process on these cars! Lol. At least now I have a better idea on how I’m going to tackle this last daunting task. Thank you for the pointers. Wish me luck. 😉
@@michellebonawitz5583 Doing the same thing for my 2001 volkswagen passat 2.8l v6 (also b5.5) Mine has been sitting since dec last year because of a spun bearing that occurred from oil deprivation.. long story. I've so far been using a 2lb rubber mallet to align the alignment holes on the subframe and a couple long sockets one of them being a 14mm, it's been working okay so far, but my transmission mount holes are about a 1/4 inch off, so I'm trying to work on that!
From personal experience and after double checking the repair manual (the same one that explicitly calls out this tool/process for the front subframe) - there is no similar method for the rear. I think in part that's because there are less movable parts in the rear and generally if you can line up the subframe mounts really nice and center with the bolt holes in the body, you're there. I usually mark up parts with a paint pen prior to removing them so I know where "home" was before.
Depending on how badly things are out of whack, you can just loosen the front subframe bolts to achieve enough movement to knock the frame back into alignment. The worse is it, the larger the likelihood the other bolts/rear end of the frame need to be altered as well. It's more an art than science.
Did you loosen the two bolts in the rear-most part of the subframe that share a mount with the transmission? It seems like if the tension on those were relieved the subframe would be easier to shift around(?).
I didn't, because although you are right, all of the subframe bolts are torque to yield. If you loosen them you're writing yourself a bill for new hardware. Maybe the cost is worth the advantage if your alignment is way out.
@@angrypants7619 Even with the rear bolts untouched, there's still significant play in the front of the frame - in my experience at least. Enough to get things in alignment and not necessitate loosening the rear.
At the beginning of the video you mentioned these alignment pins would fit a B6. I have a 2004 Audi A4 (B6), and I saw these pins on ECS Tuning, but they couldn’t confirm the fit for me on a B6. Can you confirm again that these will work on my vehicle?
how do you jack your car up so high you can get underneath it? Could you tell me what jack you use and where you jack, or better yet a short video? :) I have a A4 b6 btw with 26 failures by roadworthy test but im not writing her off. I'm gonna challenge myself and fix it !
Ha, good for you - don't give up on 'er quite yet. If you check out the rest of my channel, you'll see an older video I have on jack stand pads. Now I use my QuickJack and don't need to do anything but roll the car onto wood blocks (since I'm lowered) before lifting.... but at the time this video was filmed, I was using my jack on the front cross member (not a great idea but there's few places to lift from) and then placing maxed out jack stands with a pinch weld adapter pad on the regular pinch weld jack points.
@@FigureItAudi Hey man.. so im back :) I replaced almost everything on the list.. The biggest problem now is the front subframe. It must be fully replaced because welding is not allowed where I live. (Germany). Do you know if its easy to replace the subframe yourself? I cant find any clear videos or instructions unfortunately.
Maybe in extreme cases but if you're feeling a lot of vibration in your hands it's more likely you have bent wheels, improperly balanced wheels, or the wheels aren't mounted with hubcentric hardware. If it's not that, I'd start looking at suspension arms. Bad alignment is more likely to just pull the car in odd directions while driving and wear out tires.
@@FigureItAudi thx for reply, i have very big vibration in steering wheel only at high speed the car doesn’t pull in any direction, it drives straight very nicely, my problem occurred after taking the propeller shaft out and putting it back , may be this have something to do with propeller and position of the bevel gear flange, what do you think , your opinion can be very helpfull to me
That's not a coincidence then...did you reinstall the center bearing or anything that otherwise would change the angle of the shaft? I'd be careful till you figure that out.
Hey I was wondering if you happened to know the code instructions for programming the wiper stalk to control the instrument cluster on a Audi A4 b7, can you do it with Obd11 or it has to be vcds scan tool? I recently replaced the old wiper stalk with no reset or up/down to one that has it which is compatible to all b7 so I have access the cluster? Wipes work but no access to the cluster what’s so ever! My car is totally basic. Any help?
I think most of your answers can be found in this Audizine thread: bit.ly/3oL3m9t. I know for sure you can achieve the coding through VCDS but I have no idea if OBD11 or any other programming interface will work. I'd bet many can - but you'll need to spend time exploring the tool to see if you can access the right modules and adaptations, plus figure out what the variables are to change. In terms of cost, it might be cheaper to bring the car to a shop or dealer to handle the recoding if you're not ready to buy a VCDS type tool.
@@FigureItAudi okay I guess the best bet is to call the shop I was reading about vcds tool seems confusing & I’ve tried several times on the obd11 can’t get it to work! I’ll keep searching Audizine Forums for answers.
Very good walkthrough. My Lexus was getting a suspension lower arm change and they wanted to do a subframe alignment. So I got here to see what’s the whole point of doing this. Very nice video, very good explaination. Thank you very much
Am currently doing my subframe bushings and 034 motor mounts, this definitely helps to keep in mind while everything is out
I fitted the 034 kit to my MK5 over 3 years ago They work as long as torqued correctly
Thanks for the timely response. Figureitauti has great content and has provided me with valuable information on multiple occasions. For me ,
Spending $100.00 on a vag 3393 when you most likely have a long socket of the same dimensions seems careless. But, some people work harder for their money than others. lol
Never knew about that alignment tool, seen the holes and it makes sense now.
For your alignment make sure they follow to correct raised toe procedure, basically camber caster toe is set, then the front end is raised 30mm and there is a secondary toe adjustment done by moving the outer tie rods up or down in the knuckle. Thats why book time is 2 hours for a b5/6/7 front end alignment.
And I didn't know about that procedure you detailed. Why do I get the sense it rarely happens.
There is also special "toe-in curve" tool called VAG 1925 for this very procedure.
The stock wheel brace handle fits the alignment holes perfectly 😉
What wheel brace handle?
@@snoopy5736 for the wheel bolts, in the tool kit.
@@calm4477 thank you, I'll check tmw.
I did this with a long socket (forgot the size) after I lowered the subframe to replace the oil pump and motor mounts but I should really buy new bolts. Good video.
I used sockets too! Haha. It’s the 14mm deep socket.
Thank you so much for sharing this! Very generous of you! Have a great 2022! Cheers!
Didn't know about these. I actually found the video because I thought there was something missing there like a bushing. Anyway, mine are very misaligned, and I mean over 1cm. Will have to look into this, thanks for the video.
Thanks for sharing! Useful tips. Very well explained.
Great tip. Going to be replacing all the videos in an upcoming video. Going to try and make that tool lol.
Well done; lots of details!
Yet another very helpful video. Would this process also work for an Auto transmission?
Thanks Steve!
thanks for upload and tool dimensions
Great alignment video love it can I try it on my B sixes
Great video, thanks
thanks man
That why these cars almost never need alignments. I've hit deer in my S4 and previous owners hit a tree and needed a upper fender support. Car drives straight as an arrow 160+
Hey thanks for the video. Always helpful. Would you know if this tool works on the B8 as well? Manual says to mark with a pen before removing the subframe but I didnt know. They dont mention anything about this tool for the B8
Hello, what are the part numbers for the 6 bolts?
What is the overall length of it pls ?
Please can you detail the part numbers for the subframe bolts. I am replacing my engine mounts and want to do the bolts and alignment at the same time. Thanks
Rear subframe is off on my b7 from dropping to install coil overs. ever tackle that?
nice job !!!
What were the original part numbers on those bolts?
I’ve recently replace the engine mounts on my 2004 volkswagen passat 2.8l v6 (B5.5) and I have to realign my subframe as well. I just dont know how the heck im supposed to move each “layer” (subframe and engine mount holes) independently. I seen you were using a dead blow hammer, but where on the vehicle are u using it? My car has been in the garage for the last 13 months while I have been replacing a whole slew of components and shes finally complete but I cant drive her until I do this alignment. Ive been tempted to have AAA tow it to the Dealership for their $100 alignment. At the same time I would love to keep that $ and just do it myself since I have done SO MUCH on her myself. By the way I very much appreciate your videos! -Michelle 😎
Hey Michelle - Thanks for watching and congrats on getting so far with your project. I don't have a perfect answer for you because it's all just a dance between leverage and friction. You might need some pry bars (I just bought a set of Milwaukee H-beams geni.us/milw-4pc-pry-bar and really like them), maybe a jack push in the right spot; whatever gives you the strength to shift the layers. Plus, there's obviously a number of bolts on both sides of the car that will need to be loose and may not be limited to just the ones that hold the frames to the chassis. For example, your transmission may also be connected to the subframe via mount + bracket...so really it's all an exercise of tracing what connects to what and applying pressure. To answer your question, I was hammering directly on the circular part of the subframe that holds the subframe bushing. It took awhile to finesse.
@@FigureItAudi You know, part of me was expecting an answer like this. Yet the other part was REALLY hoping for a simple answer. 😆 I should know better than that by now tho… Nothing is a simple process on these cars! Lol. At least now I have a better idea on how I’m going to tackle this last daunting task. Thank you for the pointers. Wish me luck. 😉
@@michellebonawitz5583 Doing the same thing for my 2001 volkswagen passat 2.8l v6 (also b5.5) Mine has been sitting since dec last year because of a spun bearing that occurred from oil deprivation.. long story. I've so far been using a 2lb rubber mallet to align the alignment holes on the subframe and a couple long sockets one of them being a 14mm, it's been working okay so far, but my transmission mount holes are about a 1/4 inch off, so I'm trying to work on that!
Hi got an a4 2.5 tdi b6 front subframe needs replaced does the b7 fit the b6 model
Any tips for alignment of the rear subframe?
From personal experience and after double checking the repair manual (the same one that explicitly calls out this tool/process for the front subframe) - there is no similar method for the rear. I think in part that's because there are less movable parts in the rear and generally if you can line up the subframe mounts really nice and center with the bolt holes in the body, you're there. I usually mark up parts with a paint pen prior to removing them so I know where "home" was before.
Can you do or tell us how did you move the subframe to align the holes?
Depending on how badly things are out of whack, you can just loosen the front subframe bolts to achieve enough movement to knock the frame back into alignment. The worse is it, the larger the likelihood the other bolts/rear end of the frame need to be altered as well. It's more an art than science.
The reason it needs to be aligned is because the bolt holes on the mounts are slotted.
Did you loosen the two bolts in the rear-most part of the subframe that share a mount with the transmission? It seems like if the tension on those were relieved the subframe would be easier to shift around(?).
I didn't, because although you are right, all of the subframe bolts are torque to yield. If you loosen them you're writing yourself a bill for new hardware. Maybe the cost is worth the advantage if your alignment is way out.
@@FigureItAudi so how did you move the subframe if you didn't remove rear bolts?
@@angrypants7619 Even with the rear bolts untouched, there's still significant play in the front of the frame - in my experience at least. Enough to get things in alignment and not necessitate loosening the rear.
At the beginning of the video you mentioned these alignment pins would fit a B6. I have a 2004 Audi A4 (B6), and I saw these pins on ECS Tuning, but they couldn’t confirm the fit for me on a B6. Can you confirm again that these will work on my vehicle?
I think they are the same through A4 B5 to at least B7. Also at least A6 C5, probably C6 too.
how do you jack your car up so high you can get underneath it? Could you tell me what jack you use and where you jack, or better yet a short video? :) I have a A4 b6 btw with 26 failures by roadworthy test but im not writing her off. I'm gonna challenge myself and fix it !
Ha, good for you - don't give up on 'er quite yet. If you check out the rest of my channel, you'll see an older video I have on jack stand pads. Now I use my QuickJack and don't need to do anything but roll the car onto wood blocks (since I'm lowered) before lifting.... but at the time this video was filmed, I was using my jack on the front cross member (not a great idea but there's few places to lift from) and then placing maxed out jack stands with a pinch weld adapter pad on the regular pinch weld jack points.
@@FigureItAudi Hey man.. so im back :) I replaced almost everything on the list.. The biggest problem now is the front subframe. It must be fully replaced because welding is not allowed where I live. (Germany). Do you know if its easy to replace the subframe yourself? I cant find any clear videos or instructions unfortunately.
Does bad alignement cause steering wheel shake at high speed ?
Maybe in extreme cases but if you're feeling a lot of vibration in your hands it's more likely you have bent wheels, improperly balanced wheels, or the wheels aren't mounted with hubcentric hardware. If it's not that, I'd start looking at suspension arms. Bad alignment is more likely to just pull the car in odd directions while driving and wear out tires.
@@FigureItAudi thx for reply, i have very big vibration in steering wheel only at high speed the car doesn’t pull in any direction, it drives straight very nicely, my problem occurred after taking the propeller shaft out and putting it back , may be this have something to do with propeller and position of the bevel gear flange, what do you think , your opinion can be very helpfull to me
That's not a coincidence then...did you reinstall the center bearing or anything that otherwise would change the angle of the shaft? I'd be careful till you figure that out.
@@FigureItAudii just unbolted the propeller to take the bearbox and bevel bear down
My mechanic didn t know abaut that
Do all cars have those alignment holes?
Honestly, I'm not sure. I welcome any career mechanics to chime in with their insights. I'd be willing to guess many do, though.
It is really only a Multilink suspension thing. On other Mac Pherson strut cars yoy adjust other stuff than the subframe.
Hey I was wondering if you happened to know the code instructions for programming the wiper stalk to control the instrument cluster on a Audi A4 b7, can you do it with Obd11 or it has to be vcds scan tool? I recently replaced the old wiper stalk with no reset or up/down to one that has it which is compatible to all b7 so I have access the cluster? Wipes work but no access to the cluster what’s so ever! My car is totally basic. Any help?
I think most of your answers can be found in this Audizine thread: bit.ly/3oL3m9t. I know for sure you can achieve the coding through VCDS but I have no idea if OBD11 or any other programming interface will work. I'd bet many can - but you'll need to spend time exploring the tool to see if you can access the right modules and adaptations, plus figure out what the variables are to change. In terms of cost, it might be cheaper to bring the car to a shop or dealer to handle the recoding if you're not ready to buy a VCDS type tool.
@@FigureItAudi okay I guess the best bet is to call the shop I was reading about vcds tool seems confusing & I’ve tried several times on the obd11 can’t get it to work! I’ll keep searching Audizine Forums for answers.
I was just thinking about Black Jack and the Jack showed up
they are now $97 on ECS lool
i need someone to align my subframe most people wont do it