Pretty good. Some things that are worth considering: Clean the rust off of the tie rod itself, make sure it moves (all the way, not just a bit) and lube it up. If you dont do it the guy doing the alignment isnt going to be too happy. (and will charge you for additional work) Always loosen and tighten by the nut, not the bolt. A little concerning when the car lifted off the jack stand at the end there. There should always be at least some pressure on the stand, otherwise you are risking the car shifting and crushing you. If you are going to do this to a a car that has seen winter, then expect twice the work you see in this video. That pinch bolt alone can take 30mins to remove. Balljoints seized in place. Bolts you have clean and spray with dubyadee and they still break or strip. As for parts, Lemforder and TRW are OEM suppliers, but lemmy seems to hold up better. Meyle HD is decent. Restoration of original parts is also an option, and its much cheaper. Ball joints can be reconditioned, this is done at a specialist shop(they fill it with special polymer). Bushings can be replaced.
I like the Audi engineering of the A4's. I have a '97 Audi A4 (B5) and they were ahead of their time when engineered it, the same technology is still used today. Thanks for the video!
If you wanted to get a more precise ride height, you can measure it before you jack your car up. just take the center cap off the wheel and measure from the center of your axle nut to the top of your wheel well. Just a note for others who watch this. Thanks for the walkthrough!
Just a heads up for everyone..."Kroil" is the best for freeing up any rusted up hardware ....It cost an arm and a leg and you have to order it but it WORKS!
Very well explained thx. Just a point of interest, the reason Audi put the bolts that way around at the factory is typical German engineering in that if the nut comes off the bolt can not come out so you don’t suffer complete suspension failure! But I agree the reversing of the bolt in practice terms makes little difference.
I started doing my full suspension rebuild today including the Solo Werks coil overs. Indeed the upper control arm pinch bolt may need some TLC to get loose ... Deep creep penetrating oil and heat and plenty of patience .. go slow and don't use air tools.. you don't want to break that bolt!
Thanks for doing this video. I've got a B6 S4 Avant and I'm about to order the control arms for my car. This video really showed me how doable this is. My local shop wanted to charge me around $800 to do the job...Looks like I'll save that money now.
The proper way to replace tierod ends is to count how many turns it takes to remove it. You will be off by very little on the alignment with the new part. And DO NOT turn the tierod's spindle in the bore because it causes wear, which can results in less than required clamping force on the spindle.
Great content again! Handy tip to add a spanner to the end of your socket wrench gives you enough leverage if you can’t fit a breaker bar in. Fellow B5 S4 owner from the UK 👌🏾
Thanks very much, this is very helpful. My 1997 Audi A4 (B5) Quattro needs a suspension refresh. It has 280,000 miles on it. The potholes in Minnesota wasn't kind to it!
dead ass i wasnt going to touch the upper arms until lthis vid i thought the whole strut had to come out to do them so big thanks to you man, will be doing them next weekend
Same set up as the VW Passat b5.5.. what a pig of a job when those bolts seize, plus when you don't have proper lift equipment. I've only replaced the lower control arm and link this time and doubt I'll have the car by the time the rest needs doing. Top video, very helpful - thank you :)
When i bought my b5 s4 in 12' with 125k it was making all kinds of noises. The top control arms dont last as long from what i seen. 40 to 80k i hear. Sounds about right. My 034 arms i put in top control arms started cracking in only 35k miles. And 2nd meyle set about 40k. Even with suspension tightened down at ride height. Bolt that holds shock in corroded solid inti bushing. Had to cut bolt. Marine anti seized the crap out of it. I also am a torque spec guy. These bolts are TIGHT! Torque to yield as well. Bought some torque adapters for the job. Worked nice, but expect it to be a PITA, lol. Oh and you might want to check your strut mount as well. They dont last very long either..... nothing on this car really does... u kind of just get used to it. If u come from the world of never have to fix anything jdm? You would probably dump in car in 6 months or less🤣
Dang i have a 2006 A4 S-Line and told i need left and right upper and lower control arms and struts, thanks for the helpful tips and video, gives me confidence 👍 👏, , keep up the good work.
I’m replacing (first time for me) all the front control arms on my A4 B5 starting tomorrow and thanks to your video I’m now feeling more optimistic on my chances. I’ve taken 2 days of leave so hopefully that’ll be enough x)
answering myself to thank you for this video, worked like a charm! I didn't do exactly like you but all went well. I jsut hated myself for not owning ratchet spanners tho x)
just did my suspension on the allroad, pretty much the same... the spring strut assembly has to come out since the chassis is a bit different and the air suspension is on the way. keep those videos coming, great work. the next project is a RS6 C5 exhaust swap.
A6 2002 2.7....Loved the video. Had my control arms replaced. shop placed my lower arm put them in the wrong position. Human error. Shop reposition the arm. All good.
Hoooo, Braddah I love the the videos I myself have a B5S4 these videos have provided me with tons of insight on my own car I really appreciate the time and effort put into these very clear step by step installation videos!
Very nice video...Have you or anyone out there put anything together on installing the 034 rear upper adjustable control arms - and also how to adjust them for alignment? thank Larry
Hi you forgot to mention to take a measurement from the wheel arch to the center of the wheel for the 'unladen' measurement. You need this measurement before you finally tighten the arm bolts.unladen is the car full of fuel and nobody in it .
I always change the c links to poly bushes immediately I've had them fail in no time on 3 S4,s even the good quality lemforder ones with an annoying metal sounding clunk over slight holes in road hard to diagnose
Damn that’s annoying. I’m upgrading the end links for the front and rear soon with the new sway bar installs so I hope they will last me a few hundred miles.
Thank you for the content!!! Super helpful - Bought a stock 2000 S4 in January and have been replacing and updating quite a bit. This is something I need to do very soon.
Really enjoyed your video i have an A4 B6 2004 model and it's due to have the suspension done excellent tutorial thanks from the UK.. ( new subscriber )
Really nice video! I've just replaced mine, including new KW V2 coilovers. This was a huge help! I haven't tighten the arms too much during installation. Tighten them to spec. with a jack underneath it, but on bouncy roads I do have a little clunky noise sometimes. Only driven a few miles, but wondering how it comes. He is a bit more bouncy with the new coilovers on it.
Excellent video. Just got and estimate from BMW of Tucson for this exact job. Almost 4K for my S7. You've saved me a fair amount of coin. Thanks and keep the knowledge flowing. BTW noticed the Cactus league shirt....You in AZ?
How long would u say this entire process took? Im about to start on my B5.5 Passat Wagon, except I’m throwing in all 4 new subframe bushings as well. I was kind of saddened to see that you didn’t take on the dreaded subframe lowering! Lol. Great video, so much appreciate all the knowledge i’ve gotten from your other video’s as well!
Do you know if those orange tabs in the back lower arm bushing were supposed to be left in? My arms came with those too and I left them in like you did
Great Vid, I am about to do my control arms. Do you have steel or aluminum uprights? i know some of these kits have issues not fitting the lower control arms if you have aluminum.
I have steel uprights. When shopping for control arms most kits will be for the steel uprights so you have to make sure you look at the vin designations for the control arms you’re looking to buy.
B5 has the larger tapered ball joint for front lower control arm its 22mm...b6/b7 has the smaller tapered ball joint 16mm...b5 came with cast steel uprights there after b6/b7 etc came with aluminium uprights..
What size is the bolt as in thread pitch and length of the rear most control arm , the one you cut , bc I’d like to purchase the new bolt so I can cut the old one out for the same reason of not wanting to drop the subframe
Don’t quote me on this but I think the second hole is for the RS4 placement. The RS4 and S4 use the same subframes and lower control arms. Instead of making a set of longer arms Audi decided to extend the base mounting point.
Has everything been holding up so far without torqueing everything down to spec? I've been trying to tighten to factory specs down but for obvious reasons can't fit a torque wrench anywhere. Is it even necessary?
Everything has held up perfectly. I’ve done a few control arm installs without torqueing for the reason you mentioned and none have had issues. Honestly if I was able to torque everything down I would but it’s impossible, so very tight has worked just fine lol
I was able to use a torque wrench for all of them. The most challenging is fitting one for the top two control arms. Have to experiment with some extensions and even then there's some interference with parts. But you can still get it to the correct torque value. Doing it proper gives peace of mind and ensures that it was correctly done.
Hey bro, I'm about to get the whole Delphi kit as well but I don't see it listed on FCP Euro as an option for the B5 S4. Did you have any problems installing it? It's been a little while now, so, how do you like them? I have a 2001 Stage 3 K04 S4. Thanks man!
@@JG-es7bf Good luck. I have 59% ecs 39% fcp, 2% miscellaneous parts. I discovered fcp later by accident. Not sure how i missed it. Fcp is the autozone of the German industry. Life time part replacement. I had to cut the rear toe rod on the b5 s4 to remove it. They still replaced it for me. Anyway good luck again. And happy motoring.... and b5 fixing, lol
@@crescentandstarglory They’ve been great. Super compliant and good quality. They’re not the the best performing coilovers but for daily driving they’re perfect.
Thanks. Also I’m at the part on the lower control arm where you cut the bolt in half because there wasn’t room to pull it out. How can I get it out without cutting since I don’t have that tool
You just saved me $1200. Thank you for taking the time out of your day and making regular men into house mechanics 👍👍👍
Happy to help man!!
Pretty good. Some things that are worth considering:
Clean the rust off of the tie rod itself, make sure it moves (all the way, not just a bit) and lube it up. If you dont do it the guy doing the alignment isnt going to be too happy. (and will charge you for additional work)
Always loosen and tighten by the nut, not the bolt.
A little concerning when the car lifted off the jack stand at the end there. There should always be at least some pressure on the stand, otherwise you are risking the car shifting and crushing you.
If you are going to do this to a a car that has seen winter, then expect twice the work you see in this video. That pinch bolt alone can take 30mins to remove. Balljoints seized in place. Bolts you have clean and spray with dubyadee and they still break or strip.
As for parts, Lemforder and TRW are OEM suppliers, but lemmy seems to hold up better. Meyle HD is decent.
Restoration of original parts is also an option, and its much cheaper. Ball joints can be reconditioned, this is done at a specialist shop(they fill it with special polymer). Bushings can be replaced.
It´s crazy to see how advanced the AUDIs suspension were back then. Amazing tutorial, thanks for do it step by step =)
Yeah they went full out with double wishbone back in the 90’s it’s crazy!
I like the Audi engineering of the A4's. I have a '97 Audi A4 (B5) and they were ahead of their time when engineered it, the same technology is still used today. Thanks for the video!
If you wanted to get a more precise ride height, you can measure it before you jack your car up. just take the center cap off the wheel and measure from the center of your axle nut to the top of your wheel well. Just a note for others who watch this. Thanks for the walkthrough!
Thanks for the info!
Bolthead is set towards the walls as a security measure! If the nut comes loose the control arm will not fall out and make you loose control...
Just a heads up for everyone..."Kroil" is the best for freeing up any rusted up hardware ....It cost an arm and a leg and you have to order it but it WORKS!
Love how u kept ur cool while working on those. I worked on mine too and went thru alot of cursing, the shit was never easy for me 😂
I know what you mean. Suspension bolts are always a pain.
Very well explained thx. Just a point of interest, the reason Audi put the bolts that way around at the factory is typical German engineering in that if the nut comes off the bolt can not come out so you don’t suffer complete suspension failure! But I agree the reversing of the bolt in practice terms makes little difference.
Makes sense, and it’s actually a very smart way to guarantee safety. But damn is it annoying lol
I started doing my full suspension rebuild today including the Solo Werks coil overs. Indeed the upper control arm pinch bolt may need some TLC to get loose ... Deep creep penetrating oil and heat and plenty of patience .. go slow and don't use air tools.. you don't want to break that bolt!
@A Because my suspension was toast and was chewing up tires in rap tempo.
9:14 bolt installed in opposite direction and not possible to use pneumatic hammer to extract it in the case it needs to be removed.
Thanks for doing this video. I've got a B6 S4 Avant and I'm about to order the control arms for my car. This video really showed me how doable this is. My local shop wanted to charge me around $800 to do the job...Looks like I'll save that money now.
Wow! Gotta love the savings
The proper way to replace tierod ends is to count how many turns it takes to remove it. You will be off by very little on the alignment with the new part. And DO NOT turn the tierod's spindle in the bore because it causes wear, which can results in less than required clamping force on the spindle.
About time I change mines again. City streets are hell. Your a good mechanic
Thanks! and yeah rough roads just destroy them.
Great content again! Handy tip to add a spanner to the end of your socket wrench gives you enough leverage if you can’t fit a breaker bar in. Fellow B5 S4 owner from the UK 👌🏾
Great tip! Tried it a little earlier today. Thanks!
Thanks very much, this is very helpful. My 1997 Audi A4 (B5) Quattro needs a suspension refresh. It has 280,000 miles on it. The potholes in Minnesota wasn't kind to it!
Wow, you really grafted on this, great lighting and camera work and great job..
Glad you enjoyed it!
dead ass i wasnt going to touch the upper arms until lthis vid i thought the whole strut had to come out to do them so big thanks to you man, will be doing them next weekend
This is awesome, I worked on b5s for a while now, but learned new tricks from this video. Thank you
Glad it helped!
Im picking up a b5 for a steal because it needed control arms you just saved me 1200 bucks thank you so much
Awesome!!! Best of luck with it.
Same set up as the VW Passat b5.5.. what a pig of a job when those bolts seize, plus when you don't have proper lift equipment. I've only replaced the lower control arm and link this time and doubt I'll have the car by the time the rest needs doing. Top video, very helpful - thank you :)
Thank you so much for doing this at home with a few jack stands, so I can see how I can do it as well!
Happy to help!
When i bought my b5 s4 in 12' with 125k it was making all kinds of noises. The top control arms dont last as long from what i seen. 40 to 80k i hear. Sounds about right. My 034 arms i put in top control arms started cracking in only 35k miles. And 2nd meyle set about 40k. Even with suspension tightened down at ride height.
Bolt that holds shock in corroded solid inti bushing. Had to cut bolt. Marine anti seized the crap out of it.
I also am a torque spec guy. These bolts are TIGHT! Torque to yield as well. Bought some torque adapters for the job. Worked nice, but expect it to be a PITA, lol.
Oh and you might want to check your strut mount as well. They dont last very long either..... nothing on this car really does... u kind of just get used to it. If u come from the world of never have to fix anything jdm? You would probably dump in car in 6 months or less🤣
Man, you rock. Thanks for being so articulate and clear!
Dang i have a 2006 A4 S-Line and told i need left and right upper and lower control arms and struts, thanks for the helpful tips and video, gives me confidence 👍 👏, , keep up the good work.
Thanks!!!!
You bought the wrong tie rod ends. These are for the A4. The S4 and RS4 don't have rubber dampers in them. This is very noticeable when driving.
Excellente tutorial very complete and well done! Thank you a lot!!
Good to hear it was good help!
I’m replacing (first time for me) all the front control arms on my A4 B5 starting tomorrow and thanks to your video I’m now feeling more optimistic on my chances. I’ve taken 2 days of leave so hopefully that’ll be enough x)
answering myself to thank you for this video, worked like a charm! I didn't do exactly like you but all went well. I jsut hated myself for not owning ratchet spanners tho x)
Happy to hear it all worked out! And now you should get some ratchet spammers as a reward for a completed job lol
You my friend is a good teacher, thanks.
Thanks!
Thanks for taking your time and showing us how to do this job.Its gonna be super helpful.Have a good day
Thank you!
just did my suspension on the allroad, pretty much the same... the spring strut assembly has to come out since the chassis is a bit different and the air suspension is on the way. keep those videos coming, great work. the next project is a RS6 C5 exhaust swap.
Nice! I had forgotten the all roads had air ride. best of luck with the exhaust.
I was owned for this time in my history
A6 2002 2.7....Loved the video.
Had my control arms replaced.
shop placed my lower arm put them in the wrong position.
Human error.
Shop reposition the arm.
All good.
Glad it got fixed. Hope the A6 keeps treating you well.
I have a B7 RS4 it shouldn't be that much different. Thanks!
Good video. Good pointers on flipping the bolts around!
Glad it helped
Hoooo, Braddah I love the the videos I myself have a B5S4 these videos have provided me with tons of insight on my own car I really appreciate the time and effort put into these very clear step by step installation videos!
Replaced mine using this video , thanks !
Glad it helped
Great video! Dealing with my 04 w8 Passat and rusty bolts have been the main issue
Very nice video...Have you or anyone out there put anything together on installing the 034 rear upper adjustable control arms - and also how to adjust them for alignment? thank Larry
Awesome video and I appreciate the detail! Great tip about flipping the direction of the long bolt for the lower trailing control arms
Thanks! Glad it was helpful!
Good job no other words
Thanks!
It's a good idea to put the pinch bolt in the other way around too incase you need to hammer it out next time
Yes definitely!
I tell you !!!! Your a big help because I'm doing the same thing. I always be watching!!!!!! I will show you my car on I.G when I get done.
Happy to help!
Hi you forgot to mention to take a measurement from the wheel arch to the center of the wheel for the 'unladen' measurement. You need this measurement before you finally tighten the arm bolts.unladen is the car full of fuel and nobody in it .
No, he did not, he said to to jack up wheel hub to approax ride height aka pre-load it , yes you can measure distance from wheel center to arch too.
I always change the c links to poly bushes immediately I've had them fail in no time on 3 S4,s even the good quality lemforder ones with an annoying metal sounding clunk over slight holes in road hard to diagnose
Damn that’s annoying. I’m upgrading the end links for the front and rear soon with the new sway bar installs so I hope they will last me a few hundred miles.
I am half way at replacing the front suspension on my 2002 Passat and love your video👍
Glad it helped
Continue man with video.
You did it very perfectly
Thanks a lot!
Thank you for the content!!! Super helpful - Bought a stock 2000 S4 in January and have been replacing and updating quite a bit. This is something I need to do very soon.
Nice! Welcome to the club. Best of luck with it.
Welcome to your new nightmare! Haha love the car but mines trying to kill me.
Just replaced upper control arms, coil overs, radiator, upper and lower rad hoses, rear suspension, fuel lines, plugs coils and repaired connectors.
GoFengYourself damn that’s a big list for such a short time lol
Awesome videos having my b5 s4 rebuilt right now !
Nice!! what’s being done?
Thanks for the video man, I'm about to replace my control arms on my new b5 s4!
Congrats on the new car and best of luck with it!
Really enjoyed your video i have an A4 B6 2004 model and it's due to have the suspension done excellent tutorial thanks from the UK.. ( new subscriber )
Glad you liked it!
Great video and thank you for a tip about installing lower control arm bolt through subframe, it helped me a lot !
Happy to hear it helped
Great video, getting ready to do this on my 2012 A7.
Best of luck!!
Really nice video! I've just replaced mine, including new KW V2 coilovers. This was a huge help!
I haven't tighten the arms too much during installation. Tighten them to spec. with a jack underneath it, but on bouncy roads I do have a little clunky noise sometimes. Only driven a few miles, but wondering how it comes. He is a bit more bouncy with the new coilovers on it.
Excellent video. Just got and estimate from BMW of Tucson for this exact job. Almost 4K for my S7. You've saved me a fair amount of coin. Thanks and keep the knowledge flowing. BTW noticed the Cactus league shirt....You in AZ?
Wow that’s an expensive quote! And no actually my brother plays out there so I benefit from the gear 😆
Thank you!
I've got to do all my arms on my a4 this will be very helpful 👍pleasure to watch , perfect ! Thank you ! ......
Glad it was helpful!
This video was made just in time, because I need to change mine soon. Thanks for the video. So is this Delphi branded kit of good quality?
Nice lol that good timing. They are good quality and have great reviews. Good thing is because of FCP Euro they have a lifetime warranty.
Great Job young man. The video and audio was perfect. Very helpful.
Glad you liked it!
Cool 👌
Can you do a video on how to change the center drive shaft bearing? Seems to be a pretty common issue with these B5 S4s.
Yeah looking into options now.
Such a good video
Thanks!
A very clear and helpful video. Well done.
Thanks!
Thank You for great Video and Tips, it helps a lot.
Happy to help!
Well done, very clear.
Top job dude. Kudos to you buddy
Thank you
The hardest part is finding a shop that can do an alignment because of how low I am
Yeah man, I definitely understand. I went through the same issue.
This was so satisfying to watch! Thx b🔥
Thanks man!
super instructions.
How long would u say this entire process took? Im about to start on my B5.5 Passat Wagon, except I’m throwing in all 4 new subframe bushings as well. I was kind of saddened to see that you didn’t take on the dreaded subframe lowering! Lol. Great video, so much appreciate all the knowledge i’ve gotten from your other video’s as well!
3:40 would there be enough room for an angle grinder there? Cause fuck that if you're replacing the bolt anyway
Very Informative!
Well done Sir
Thank you!
Great video!
lots of noise coming from my Audi A6. thank you
Glad it helped
Thanks my brother!!!!
Any time!
Thank you,... great video.
Glad you liked it!
Do you know if those orange tabs in the back lower arm bushing were supposed to be left in? My arms came with those too and I left them in like you did
Can anybody tell me weather or not its important to do all of these? Rather than jsut replace one at a time with wear?
Great job mate !
Thanks a lot!
Boss 👍
Thanks!
Great Vid, I am about to do my control arms. Do you have steel or aluminum uprights? i know some of these kits have issues not fitting the lower control arms if you have aluminum.
from my understanding the aluminum uprights have a sleeve insert in them to accept the control arms.
I have steel uprights. When shopping for control arms most kits will be for the steel uprights so you have to make sure you look at the vin designations for the control arms you’re looking to buy.
B5 has the larger tapered ball joint for front lower control arm its 22mm...b6/b7 has the smaller tapered ball joint 16mm...b5 came with cast steel uprights there after b6/b7 etc came with aluminium uprights..
What size is the bolt as in thread pitch and length of the rear most control arm , the one you cut , bc I’d like to purchase the new bolt so I can cut the old one out for the same reason of not wanting to drop the subframe
perfect job ! thank you !
sub
Thanks!
Bruh why does your just pop out
A rice burner a gas gusseler a diesel .
Great video, is this the same process for the 2004 Audi A4?
The process should be very similar
Any idea why the lower control arms have two different holes to choose from?
Don’t quote me on this but I think the second hole is for the RS4 placement. The RS4 and S4 use the same subframes and lower control arms. Instead of making a set of longer arms Audi decided to extend the base mounting point.
Extra negative camber on the inner hole. Need a spacer for the control arms and the axles though.
BTW what brand arms did you reinstall?
They’re Myle control arms
@@CIPGAS thanks! How have they been holding up? I read reviews that the bushings wear out very early. Did you install Meyle HD or just regular?
Has everything been holding up so far without torqueing everything down to spec? I've been trying to tighten to factory specs down but for obvious reasons can't fit a torque wrench anywhere. Is it even necessary?
Everything has held up perfectly. I’ve done a few control arm installs without torqueing for the reason you mentioned and none have had issues. Honestly if I was able to torque everything down I would but it’s impossible, so very tight has worked just fine lol
Bro my axle came off my wheel hub while doing this? Do I just slide the axle back in? I’m confused
If you removed the axle bolt in the middle of the hub then yeah slide it back on and you’re fine.
i didnt remove the axle bolt thats the thing@@CIPGAS
I didn’t remove it lol the boot was already torn and the back side just slid out
ЛЕМФЕРДЕР СКОЛЬКО СТОИТ???
new sub here.. keep up the great content
Thank you!
Is there a need to use a torque wrench at any point in this process? I’m changing my suspension on both sides this week.
A torque wrench is always a good idea. But for some of these bolts it’s impractical because of the access to them
I was able to use a torque wrench for all of them. The most challenging is fitting one for the top two control arms. Have to experiment with some extensions and even then there's some interference with parts. But you can still get it to the correct torque value. Doing it proper gives peace of mind and ensures that it was correctly done.
Where are the torque specs?
Hey bro, I'm about to get the whole Delphi kit as well but I don't see it listed on FCP Euro as an option for the B5 S4. Did you have any problems installing it? It's been a little while now, so, how do you like them? I have a 2001 Stage 3 K04 S4. Thanks man!
If you haven't already id look into the meyle hd ones. Bushings are a little stiffer. Iove it. About 100 more then dephi kit
@@easycomeeasygo8901 Yes! I was actually looking at Meyle's at ECS or Febi Bilstein's at JHM... Febi's are more affordable.
@@JG-es7bf id try to stay fcp euro for the warranty. The uppers dont last a long time, lol
@@easycomeeasygo8901 Very good point! Thanks man! I appreciate it.
@@JG-es7bf Good luck. I have 59% ecs 39% fcp, 2% miscellaneous parts. I discovered fcp later by accident. Not sure how i missed it. Fcp is the autozone of the German industry. Life time part replacement. I had to cut the rear toe rod on the b5 s4 to remove it. They still replaced it for me. Anyway good luck again. And happy motoring.... and b5 fixing, lol
Can I align my self?
If you have the correct measuring tools to get the job done.
What coilovers do you have on your car?
Solowerks at the moment
What kind of shocks are you using? Brand?
Solowerks
@@CIPGAS how do you like them? Do you recommend?
@@crescentandstarglory They’ve been great. Super compliant and good quality. They’re not the the best performing coilovers but for daily driving they’re perfect.
@@CIPGAS Thanks. Did you have to mount the coilovers or they came mounted?
Is this the same as for the b5 a4 1.8t?
Yeah the process is exactly the same
Thanks. Also I’m at the part on the lower control arm where you cut the bolt in half because there wasn’t room to pull it out. How can I get it out without cutting since I don’t have that tool
Fix my car