A local bow technician just told me the other day that it wasn't likely to get inserts out of arrows. It appears he was uninformed. Thanks for the tip. Keep em coming.
Bow technicians have been taught marketing skills by their employers to make more money. He wanted you to feel the need to buy new ones which is BS. They don’t care about us as individuals.
Great tip. I will do my inserts as you demonstrated from now on. I normally screw on a 150 gn field tip, heat it up slightly and try twisting it off along with the insert. I do this several times just to warm up the glue and not over heat the carbon but it takes some time per shaft. Done this to lot of shaft that were 29'' 30'' inch long. All my babies I now cut 28 1/2 shaft alone after spinning. I cut it with no nocks on em. Now I tune inserts then tune nocks like you stated on your videos. Then I let em fly with vanes or feathers on em. Of course I am an FOC archer now so my inserts arte 100gns and fld points or broad heads are 200 gns. My average shafts are anywhere from 540's to 680's. God i'm so stoked!
This is probably the best/most helpful video I have seen in a VERY long time. I had some Victory RIP arrows that I used a Easton Brass HIT insert on and apparently the epoxy that I was using started to set and when I pulled the insert tool out it brought the insert with it (making this useless essentially). You have just saved me about half a dozen arrows that ill still be able to use this year. Thank you sooooo much!
That is exactly what Joel the Manager at Root River Archery showed me .... he is working with me on building some adult arrows... I talked with him about your videos and Dr. Ashby and he was more than willing to help build the arrows... he actually contacted Ethic's Archery and is becoming a dealer for them... he has the insert and collars coming for my GT Airstrike arrows... in testing we are going with 140 grain insert/collar and 125 grain FP... will have 265 up front... will have to get FOC once we fletch ... it's a process... Thank you.
Holy shit!, That is absolutely genius I wanted to yank my 75 grain inserts and put in 100 grain inserts instead of having to change Broadhead weights. It’s not that I don’t have enough Broadheads I got more than most archery shops were. Thank you that is one of the best tips I’ve ever heard
Bro you are 110 out of a 100!!! This is the coolest trick I’ve ever !!! I did break two drill bits getting inserts out!! And agree ppe is important 😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂 Thanks so much ,
RF.. The first insert I tried to glue in I waited too long and was only in 1/4 of the way. Watched your video and after a few whacks the insert came out. Thanks and love the channel.
ThanknYou Sir, worked like a charm and the drill bit didn't even go.through the TV, lol. Carpet is a good recommendation. I heated mine in very hot water first, not sure if it helped loosen the glue but I got them all out... u the man
Used that tip to remove some insert so I didn’t have to wait for the new ones, so I can set up my heavy arrows. Went from 400 spine 420 grain arrows to 300 spine 632 grain arrows. Now I’m driving tacks. Thank you so much for putting the fun back into shooting bow. Doing my recurve next.
What a quick helpful tip as per usual. I myself am planning on getting the RF test kit 200-300 to see if they will fly correctly with my Cabela’s Stalker Xtremes 340s that I have had for years yet haven’t used on any animal. If not I may have to buy some 300s to use out of my 2006 PSE Fire Flite 33 with 60 lb draw and 29 inch draw length. So eventually I may have to knock those inserts out and add 100 grain ones. Got to do the process. Thanks again for sharing and caring. Go catch that 10 lber with that glide bait in the jar there. 🎣
How the heck do you not have more subscribers with the content you put out? Thanks for the guidance. Got the fairy package coming from Sirius. Can't wait!
Great tip! For some reason, I had to literally pound some of my inserts into the shaft. Ethics clean cut stainless inserts and Black Eagle Carnivore shafts. Some of the inserts went in snug, and some of them had to be beat on...which I didn't like. And since I don't own a micrometer, I don't even know who to blame. 🥴
This is why I use the blue glue you heat up. In over 15 years of using it I’ve only had a couple inserts come out. If I need to change or rotate for broadhead alignment it’s easy enough.
Since I use hot melt on my inserts, I just heat up my insert tool, screw it in, count to 5, and pull. Comes out slick and easy. If you have an insert tool, you can run a deep socket on the outside of the shaft instead of using a drill bit inside. Works the same.
This is a great technique. Overheated tip before. Shaft got rubbery real quick. Some inserts are heavily glued in I suspect. Some nocks or nock adapters are crazy glued as well.
Heat gun on low works well for me, of course you need gloves. Has worked every time for me so far. I will keep your tip in mind though in case mine fails. Thanks for your time and efforts sir.
Some brass inserts of mine ended up curing too deep inside the arrow for threads on a point to even reach them. The drill bit trick isn't budging them, how can I heat up the epoxy ? Or any other ideas? Spent a fortune on these things and my shop is no help
I noticed the swimbaits and glidebaits too. His first big love is fishing 🎣 and outside of shooting big pigs he is trying to catch his first ten pound HAWG Bass in one of them Texas lakes like Falcon or Lake Fork among others.
I'm not bragging because it took me a long time to break 5lbs but we fish a 22 acre pond that's stocked and managed by LDWF and we catch a 6, 7, or 8 during every spawn we fish. When we head to the lake I would always say, Might catch a 10. Well my wife did Jan 14th one year in 2 ft of water. 10lbs! It was insane. I've got the pic
This works on some arrows, but other inserts are so nuclear glued in you may not get them to budge. Some arrows have nocks glued in as well so that can be a double suck fest. This worked on some of my aluminum shafts as well with factory installed inserts. Sweeet. They appeared to be pressed in with no glue. Great tip!
So I tried this and it wound up splitting the carbon shaft right behind the insert; I'm guessing it peened the edges of the insert over? Do you think I should have heated up the insert beforehand? I'm not sure what type of glue the pro shop used to put them in.
Thanks so much for the tip. Would love to see a video on footing shafts with an Epic sleeve. Got me some 300 spine shafts the other day to tune high FOC that I’m going to put feathers on and sight in with my new EZV sight. So yes, guess you could say I’ve snorted some RF dust. Love the channel!
This video is great (however)... I'm a durability "Freak". I don't intend to use just "inserts" ever. My "durability" program includes Ethics Stainless inserts AND outserts. ALL glued in/on with JB Weld two part epoxy. In the past, my only option has been throw it away. Have you got further recommendations for me?
Ace hardware sells different sizes of steel rod which works like your drill bit. I also heat up the point but leave it in with the steel in the arrow then throw the steel into the arrow a fer times and the tip bounces off the back of my workbench (usually). But don't get things too hot it will ruin end of arrows.
what a great tip i had some adult arrows maid up paid a lot of money cause i dont have a arrow saw etc.. well im not happy with the inserts I dont think the ends where squared now I can try this and do it myself....Thx troy
Hey RF, if I knew that a month ago I wouldn't have given 11 Victory VAPS to my cousin which made me order 6 new said Victory VAPS in a longer length. I like to use JB Weld since most glue/epoxy that I've used I've lost the whole field point & insert in the harder targets when it comes to removing the arrows from the arrow. I'm testing out the AAE Max Impact right now & I like the results so far. I'm also working on my 5th arrow build right now, trying to perfect the process.😜
Thanks Troy, I just made me a dozen arrows , well I got done cutting the arrows off but didn't use my arrow sqaring devise, I actually couldn't find it and thought maybe I wouldn't Need it . Well I shouldn't think I guess , anyway thanks again I appreciate it.
I've been using a torch on a field tip. I put the field tip in a vice and torch the threads till its red than I screw the arrow onto the tip. I only leave on there about 5 seconds and I twist the arrow off the insert. I'm careful not to overheat it.
@@jayytee8062 I'm heating the threads of an old field tip not the threads of the insert. If you saw what I did it probably would be easier to get what I'm doing. By the time I screw the arrow onto the field tip it's not red anymore.
Damn thats a pretty nifty trick ya got there! Damn smart method of doing that...will this work with slow set 2 part epoxy too or only works well with say like a hot melt type of glued in insert? Thanks for this hot tip!
Thanks... I tend to use different kinds of glue.... Some gorilla glue some loc-tite some idk what..... But that will help to try in the future because I have an array of arrows with lengths from 29 to 27 lmao. But in my defense I shoot at targets and my range is 50 to 60 yards long when I step into the edge of the woods on the other side of the road, but when it comes to width it is around 15 yards where my targets sit and I'm surrounded by pine trees with a lot of roots. So most of that is due to unsuccessful arrow removal from roots in the ground surrounding my two targets. Long story short other than hot melt JB weld will come loose especially when heated rather than various kinds of super glue?
Would acetone or any other superglue solvent effect the arrow to loosen up the insert? Idk how it’s manufactured if they use an adhesive to roll shafts
The drill bit trick doesn't work so well with AAE max impact glue. Heat doesn't work well either, you are going to ruin the shaft. But for me, the drill bit trick worked every time on Easton epoxy
Did not work for me with Victory RIP TKO arrows. Outserts were installed by Lancaster Archery. I have no idea what adhesive was used. I was hoping that this would work. The good thing with my project is that I need cut the shaft length down and was hoping to reused the outserts. So my next step is to cut the shafts , then try some heat to see if I can get them appart.
@@adampfeffer4722 They make heavier broadheads - and heavy inserts plus a mech aren’t necessarily anything good Drag from the broadhead is drag. More pressure on critters is more drag - Newton equal and opposite reaction
I’m working on getting my FOC up. I’m definitely making the switch to my cutthroat single bevels. 150gr. If that’s not doing it. I’ll tune up some heavier broadheads. Thanks again Troy. 😊👍
I havent been able to do it. IF THEY ARE torn. If it's a pass through and fletch is good. YOU bet. I put those arrows in, resharpen and they are first to go next shot. "proven"!!
You've got "message board fever" reading about inserts!!! hahhdhahdhh Have you bare shaft tuned your arrows for perfect flight? Are your broadheads sharp? Or just out of the package and "who cares the package says they are sharp" Have you checked to see if they broadheads fly accurately? THEN - you worry about outserts.
Just something I've done and still like to do is hot glue inserts when doing all my testing. You can remove inserts so much easier and once you have your setup where you want then something more permanent
A field point, a cigarette lighter, and a pair of pliers is the best way. Warm up that glue a little to soften it and use the pliers to yank out the insert with the field point attached.
Variable heat gun on a very low setting does the trick for me. Then you can pull it out with relative ease. Sometimes, however, they don't want to come out. I'll be using this trick when I run into some tricky buggers.
Excellent tip. Thank you. Question...why remove the field point? Wouldn't the extra weight and retained heat help pull the insert out while the drill bit pushes it from the opposite end?
Use Bohning's hotmelt (amber- Fer-L-Tite) or cold melt (blue) from the same company. Besides making it super easy to remove your inserts, it also makes it much easier to get your broadheads oriented up and down in relation to the shaft once you're all dialed in. Never put a flame to the carbon though, you need a long field point or you could make something by welding a field point to a longer piece of metal or other conductive material which will heat up the insert enough to allow you to play with it no matter how many times.
Any tips on FMJ’s. I’ve been told many times due to Eastons 2 part epoxy this will not work. But you said JB weld and I’m pretty sure that’s a 2 part epoxy?!
Sean Balch The HIT system sucks. 100% underperforms on heavy impact - “Plan B” Holler at iron will and get their collars or ditch them and use for tomato stakes
Alternatively, if the bit trick doesn’t work, get a metal rod that’s longer than the arrow that barely fits inside the shaft and GENTLY tap the insert out. Works like a charm on the stubborn ones and you are less likely to put your eye out.
You used that drill bit much different than I thought you would. Very interesting and informative. Thanks for the tip.
I’ve been subscribed for a couple years now, I can’t believe you don’t have a 100k + subscribers. You and THP is the best on TH-cam!!!!
I agree with the above statement 100%
This is by far the most helpful video I have found and it worked. I was able to remove a damaged insert, and got an arrow back
Hey Mr RF. I don't comment much on YT. but thank you for this. Real world common sense. Very rare breed you are..
I think he's a hybrid
A local bow technician just told me the other day that it wasn't likely to get inserts out of arrows. It appears he was uninformed. Thanks for the tip. Keep em coming.
Bow technicians have been taught marketing skills by their employers to make more money. He wanted you to feel the need to buy new ones which is BS. They don’t care about us as individuals.
It depends how / what they were put in with .
@@MattMc365dude put those inserts in with JB weld. If he can get those out, you can get any of them out.
@@OGbqze- have you tried this trick? Did it work? I have some 29.5” arrows I want cut down to 29” but need to remove the inserts.
Great tip. I will do my inserts as you demonstrated from now on. I normally screw on a 150 gn field tip, heat it up slightly and try twisting it off along with the insert. I do this several times just to warm up the glue and not over heat the carbon but it takes some time per shaft. Done this to lot of shaft that were 29'' 30'' inch long. All my babies I now cut 28 1/2 shaft alone after spinning. I cut it with no nocks on em. Now I tune inserts then tune nocks like you stated on your videos. Then I let em fly with vanes or feathers on em. Of course I am an FOC archer now so my inserts arte 100gns and fld points or broad heads are 200 gns. My average shafts are anywhere from 540's to 680's. God i'm so stoked!
Insert tuning?
This is probably the best/most helpful video I have seen in a VERY long time. I had some Victory RIP arrows that I used a Easton Brass HIT insert on and apparently the epoxy that I was using started to set and when I pulled the insert tool out it brought the insert with it (making this useless essentially). You have just saved me about half a dozen arrows that ill still be able to use this year. Thank you sooooo much!
That is exactly what Joel the Manager at Root River Archery showed me .... he is working with me on building some adult arrows... I talked with him about your videos and Dr. Ashby and he was more than willing to help build the arrows... he actually contacted Ethic's Archery and is becoming a dealer for them... he has the insert and collars coming for my GT Airstrike arrows... in testing we are going with 140 grain insert/collar and 125 grain FP... will have 265 up front... will have to get FOC once we fletch ... it's a process... Thank you.
Holy shit!, That is absolutely genius I wanted to yank my 75 grain inserts and put in 100 grain inserts instead of having to change Broadhead weights. It’s not that I don’t have enough Broadheads I got more than most archery shops were. Thank you that is one of the best tips I’ve ever heard
Hey RF. JUST USED YOUR TRICK, including slightly heating the arrowhead. Worked like a charm. Thanks!!!
Just figured out it helps a TON to have a heavy field point in the insert...more inertia!!
Bro you are 110 out of a 100!!!
This is the coolest trick I’ve ever !!!
I did break two drill bits getting inserts out!! And agree ppe is important 😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂
Thanks so much ,
Ranch Fairy is the king. Great tip bro. 👍
RF.. The first insert I tried to glue in I waited too long and was only in 1/4 of the way. Watched your video and after a few whacks the insert came out. Thanks and love the channel.
This tip is 💵! Used it this evening to rescue some hunter xt 300s from stock inserts. Thanks, RF!!
ThanknYou Sir, worked like a charm and the drill bit didn't even go.through the TV, lol. Carpet is a good recommendation. I heated mine in very hot water first, not sure if it helped loosen the glue but I got them all out... u the man
Used that tip to remove some insert so I didn’t have to wait for the new ones, so I can set up my heavy arrows. Went from 400 spine 420 grain arrows to 300 spine 632 grain arrows. Now I’m driving tacks. Thank you so much for putting the fun back into shooting bow. Doing my recurve next.
This works better than any other trick thank u man!
Thanks for all the awesome info and the laughs!!!
What a quick helpful tip as per usual. I myself am planning on getting the RF test kit 200-300 to see if they will fly correctly with my Cabela’s Stalker Xtremes 340s that I have had for years yet haven’t used on any animal. If not I may have to buy some 300s to use out of my 2006 PSE Fire Flite 33 with 60 lb draw and 29 inch draw length. So eventually I may have to knock those inserts out and add 100 grain ones. Got to do the process. Thanks again for sharing and caring. Go catch that 10 lber with that glide bait in the jar there. 🎣
How the heck do you not have more subscribers with the content you put out?
Thanks for the guidance. Got the fairy package coming from Sirius. Can't wait!
Because he is more or less a quack.
I can't belive this worked.. Thank you for another great tip/video
This yr, I started using the Blue Hot Melt for installing inserts in carbon shafts... Very pleased.
Aweosme. I get to clock my board heads now. I’m just gonna learn to build mine for consistency
Great tip! For some reason, I had to literally pound some of my inserts into the shaft. Ethics clean cut stainless inserts and Black Eagle Carnivore shafts. Some of the inserts went in snug, and some of them had to be beat on...which I didn't like. And since I don't own a micrometer, I don't even know who to blame. 🥴
This is why I use the blue glue you heat up. In over 15 years of using it I’ve only had a couple inserts come out. If I need to change or rotate for broadhead alignment it’s easy enough.
Works awesome and within less than 30 seconds insert is out!
Since I use hot melt on my inserts, I just heat up my insert tool, screw it in, count to 5, and pull. Comes out slick and easy. If you have an insert tool, you can run a deep socket on the outside of the shaft instead of using a drill bit inside. Works the same.
Thanks for this! I thought you were gonna drill them out at first. 😀
This is a great technique. Overheated tip before. Shaft got rubbery real quick. Some inserts are heavily glued in I suspect. Some nocks or nock adapters are crazy glued as well.
Nice one my friend, worked a treat
What’s the collar / insert set up in the original pic of this vid . Please 🙏🏻
Heat gun on low works well for me, of course you need gloves. Has worked every time for me so far. I will keep your tip in mind though in case mine fails. Thanks for your time and efforts sir.
I just saw a twisslers red licorice ad on my TH-cam feed and initially thought it was a new ranch fairy video...
I've been doing this for years. It is REALLY EASY TO WRECK AN ARROW with the heat so I'm reemphasizing Troy's point about care with the heat.
Awesome tip Ranch Fairy! Worked like a charm!
What a great tip….. works perfectly
Some brass inserts of mine ended up curing too deep inside the arrow for threads on a point to even reach them. The drill bit trick isn't budging them, how can I heat up the epoxy ? Or any other ideas? Spent a fortune on these things and my shop is no help
Best untipping tip on the tube
Just got the ethics adjustable outsert system (120 to 180 grains), need to figure out what will fly best. gonna start testing soon!
Great Advice and Great Shirt too!
Best-Regards👍🏻
Great tip! I see the old s waver 120 in that mason jar back there! 🤣
I noticed the swimbaits and glidebaits too. His first big love is fishing 🎣 and outside of shooting big pigs he is trying to catch his first ten pound HAWG Bass in one of them Texas lakes like Falcon or Lake Fork among others.
Forrest Earnest I’m trying to break over a 5 pounder a 10 pounder would be a dream!
@@AmericanSavage1776 Yeah same here I would love to get 5+ let alone a double digit slob like every bass fisherman dreams of.
I'm not bragging because it took me a long time to break 5lbs but we fish a 22 acre pond that's stocked and managed by LDWF and we catch a 6, 7, or 8 during every spawn we fish. When we head to the lake I would always say, Might catch a 10. Well my wife did Jan 14th one year in 2 ft of water. 10lbs! It was insane. I've got the pic
This works on some arrows, but other inserts are so nuclear glued in you may not get them to budge. Some arrows have nocks glued in as well so that can be a double suck fest. This worked on some of my aluminum shafts as well with factory installed inserts. Sweeet. They appeared to be pressed in with no glue. Great tip!
I've had trouble when I epoxy them in but with glue... this works great
I don't know what's better, the removal technique or laugh .... 😂
How this worked amazing for me! Thank you sir!
Great tip R.F.!! Was just of thinking of using a heat gun instead and pulling them out.
Thanks for all of your tips and videos 👍👍👏
So I tried this and it wound up splitting the carbon shaft right behind the insert; I'm guessing it peened the edges of the insert over? Do you think I should have heated up the insert beforehand? I'm not sure what type of glue the pro shop used to put them in.
it happens sometimes. The carbon is woven and unwraps
Thanks so much for the tip. Would love to see a video on footing shafts with an Epic sleeve. Got me some 300 spine shafts the other day to tune high FOC that I’m going to put feathers on and sight in with my new EZV sight. So yes, guess you could say I’ve snorted some RF dust. Love the channel!
This video is great (however)... I'm a durability "Freak". I don't intend to use just "inserts" ever. My "durability" program includes Ethics Stainless inserts AND outserts. ALL glued in/on with JB Weld two part epoxy. In the past, my only option has been throw it away. Have you got further recommendations for me?
How about clamping field tip in vice and just pull arrow off?
Ace hardware sells different sizes of steel rod which works like your drill bit. I also heat up the point but leave it in with the steel in the arrow then throw the steel into the arrow a fer times and the tip bounces off the back of my workbench (usually). But don't get things too hot it will ruin end of arrows.
AWESOME ADVICE!! It actually worked. Thank you
what a great tip i had some adult arrows maid up paid a lot of money cause i dont have a arrow saw etc.. well im not happy with the inserts I dont think the ends where squared now I can try this and do it myself....Thx troy
Hey RF, if I knew that a month ago I wouldn't have given 11 Victory VAPS to my cousin which made me order 6 new said Victory VAPS in a longer length. I like to use JB Weld since most glue/epoxy that I've used I've lost the whole field point & insert in the harder targets when it comes to removing the arrows from the arrow. I'm testing out the AAE Max Impact right now & I like the results so far. I'm also working on my 5th arrow build right now, trying to perfect the process.😜
Great, simple solution to help me modify arrows I have for high FOC. Thanks
Thanks Troy, I just made me a dozen arrows , well I got done cutting the arrows off but didn't use my arrow sqaring devise, I actually couldn't find it and thought maybe I wouldn't Need it . Well I shouldn't think I guess , anyway thanks again I appreciate it.
I was just looking up videos on how to do this earlier today! Haha great video Troy!
This worked great RF. Liked and Subscribed!
I've been using a torch on a field tip. I put the field tip in a vice and torch the threads till its red than I screw the arrow onto the tip. I only leave on there about 5 seconds and I twist the arrow off the insert. I'm careful not to overheat it.
The fact that you heated till red hot you did overheat it. Now you have weakened the threaded part.
@@jayytee8062 I'm heating the threads of an old field tip not the threads of the insert. If you saw what I did it probably would be easier to get what I'm doing. By the time I screw the arrow onto the field tip it's not red anymore.
Damn thats a pretty nifty trick ya got there! Damn smart method of doing that...will this work with slow set 2 part epoxy too or only works well with say like a hot melt type of glued in insert? Thanks for this hot tip!
Thanks... I tend to use different kinds of glue.... Some gorilla glue some loc-tite some idk what..... But that will help to try in the future because I have an array of arrows with lengths from 29 to 27 lmao. But in my defense I shoot at targets and my range is 50 to 60 yards long when I step into the edge of the woods on the other side of the road, but when it comes to width it is around 15 yards where my targets sit and I'm surrounded by pine trees with a lot of roots. So most of that is due to unsuccessful arrow removal from roots in the ground surrounding my two targets. Long story short other than hot melt JB weld will come loose especially when heated rather than various kinds of super glue?
I do this all the time and it definitely works, BUT YOU WILL reuin that particular insert
Awesome tip Troy, thank you. Keep them coming.
I glue nocks in as well. Hunting late season in Minnesota and miss a deer because nock is still on bow but arrow is under animal and you will too.
God bless you, this worked like magic for me
Would acetone or any other superglue solvent effect the arrow to loosen up the insert? Idk how it’s manufactured if they use an adhesive to roll shafts
No idea
The drill bit trick doesn't work so well with AAE max impact glue. Heat doesn't work well either, you are going to ruin the shaft.
But for me, the drill bit trick worked every time on Easton epoxy
Did not work for me with Victory RIP TKO arrows. Outserts were installed by Lancaster Archery. I have no idea what adhesive was used. I was hoping that this would work. The good thing with my project is that I need cut the shaft length down and was hoping to reused the outserts. So my next step is to cut the shafts , then try some heat to see if I can get them appart.
Good stuff man, I appreciate the tips and I will be coming back here for sure!
I can not find inserts for my cross bolts. Any help on that? I am running Carbon Express Pile Driver bolts, with an ID of .284
No idea - sorry
@@RanchFairy That's ok Troy, thank you man.
@@adampfeffer4722
They make heavier broadheads - and heavy inserts plus a mech aren’t necessarily anything good
Drag from the broadhead is drag. More pressure on critters is more drag
- Newton equal and opposite reaction
I’m working on getting my FOC up. I’m definitely making the switch to my cutthroat single bevels. 150gr. If that’s not doing it. I’ll tune up some heavier broadheads. Thanks again Troy. 😊👍
Hey Troy! Is it possible to clean up and reuse a fletching?? Lemme know!!
I havent been able to do it. IF THEY ARE torn.
If it's a pass through and fletch is good. YOU bet.
I put those arrows in, resharpen and they are first to go next shot. "proven"!!
@RanchFairy I have one that I didn't glue on well cause I'm an impatient idiot.
@ We are friends!!!
Great videos Troy !!! Keep it up buddy
Hey RF, what’s the best way to cut an insert to get it to the desired weight? Handsaw? Dremel tool?
Evan Whitaker
Ethics can answer
Are outserts that have been superglued removable?
I’ve done 3 that were glued in, one didn’t budge
Can you do a video on how to glue the glue on broadheads and tips? Like the Tuffheads or Meatheads.
Coming soon.
Boy if I had a nickel for every time I heard "Don't do it on the carpet!"
How reliable are the half out inserts on big game? Using an Easton axis 5mm, steel 75gr half out, 100gr g5 monotec cs.
You've got "message board fever" reading about inserts!!! hahhdhahdhh
Have you bare shaft tuned your arrows for perfect flight?
Are your broadheads sharp? Or just out of the package and "who cares the package says they are sharp"
Have you checked to see if they broadheads fly accurately?
THEN - you worry about outserts.
Thanks Ranch Fairy. It worked.
Just something I've done and still like to do is hot glue inserts when doing all my testing. You can remove inserts so much easier and once you have your setup where you want then something more permanent
A field point, a cigarette lighter, and a pair of pliers is the best way. Warm up that glue a little to soften it and use the pliers to yank out the insert with the field point attached.
Variable heat gun on a very low setting does the trick for me. Then you can pull it out with relative ease. Sometimes, however, they don't want to come out. I'll be using this trick when I run into some tricky buggers.
Which kit do I need for 63-65# draw and 27” carbon to carbon?
Jake Hembree
300/250
Awesome tip! Thanks mate!🏆👍🏻
troy I got a 22 inch drill bit and pushed it out from the back but this looks way easier
Excellent tip. Thank you. Question...why remove the field point? Wouldn't the extra weight and retained heat help pull the insert out while the drill bit pushes it from the opposite end?
If you leave the field point in, the drill bit has more mass to try and move
More videos please!!! Love your videos!!!
Thanks. Heating tip helps a lot.
Handy little hint... Have you got the broadheads from Australia that you mentioned a while back? Curious about what they are...
Does the quikweld work??
Hilarious!!! 😅😆🤣
Thanks for the laugh and tips!!! 👍🏼👍🏼
Hey ranch fairy does this work with the awful hit inserts?
Haha awesome. What if you want the insert out of a robin hooded arrow?? 😬😬
Use Bohning's hotmelt (amber- Fer-L-Tite) or cold melt (blue) from the same company. Besides making it super easy to remove your inserts, it also makes it much easier to get your broadheads oriented up and down in relation to the shaft once you're all dialed in. Never put a flame to the carbon though, you need a long field point or you could make something by welding a field point to a longer piece of metal or other conductive material which will heat up the insert enough to allow you to play with it no matter how many times.
Have you watched the videos on insert tuning?
Have you experimented with ethics archery spinning inserts yet? Would be cool to see a reach fairy video on those. Not many videos on them yet
I don’t really care about that idea. Arrows fly by being pushed
Any tips on FMJ’s. I’ve been told many times due to Eastons 2 part epoxy this will not work. But you said JB weld and I’m pretty sure that’s a 2 part epoxy?!
Sean Balch
The HIT system sucks. 100% underperforms on heavy impact - “Plan B”
Holler at iron will and get their collars or ditch them and use for tomato stakes
Worked fantastic. Great tip.
Works well sometimes depending on how they’re glued in. Sometimes you crack a shaft.
Great tip/trick! Thanks RF👍
Alternatively, if the bit trick doesn’t work, get a metal rod that’s longer than the arrow that barely fits inside the shaft and GENTLY tap the insert out. Works like a charm on the stubborn ones and you are less likely to put your eye out.