I did the same in my 1985 M-B diesel engine. Ignore the naysayers. The liner is just thin cast-iron, so breaks easy. On the 1st cylinder, I first ran a weld bead down the liner, as I read on the internet and others state here. But it didn't just drop out so I started tapping w/ a small chisel on the edge from the bottom side. The liner starter folding in, so I inserted a thin screwdriver and found it tapped down easy, folding in the liner. Now smarter, I skipped the welder on the other 4 cyl and just worked the screwdriver in and got each out in 1 min. I hit harder than shown. You can then fold in the liner to drop it out. I had more trouble getting the new liners in. Heated the block over a gas stove and left the liner in the freezer, but still had to place a thick plate on top and beat w/ a sledgehammer. You can hear when they seat at the bottom.
this is not the way I do this now, it is the same only without the torch much faster and no heat necessary. As to the "using a press" comments I don't have a press and the all time to set all that up. I saw on youtube guys using an air hammer so i thought I might improve the process. thanks for likes 262K who would've thought.
I've done this lots of times, but used a rosebud tip. Run down the sleeve wall, and you'll see the sleeve bulge toward the center of the bore as you go. Go have coffee and come back 20 minutes later. They fall out with no damage to the block, which is more than can be said for using a sleeve puller.
Its definitely not a procedure recommended by manufacturer... Have You heard about hydraulic press? Old cylinder liners/ sleeves should be pressed out from bottom. That is Perkins recommended way
Thanks for the great video. I'm going to use the same method to remove my sleeves. I hear people saying to use a puller, because you could damage the bores with a screwdriver, but a person would probably have a greater chance of damaging the top of the engine by putting all that crap on top of it and exerting that kind of force. On top of that, it's gonna take alot more time to press them things out.
Good information and useful. Solutions are always based on resources. I've used the arc welder procedure but it scares the hell out of me. Afraid to get too much penetration. This looks less imposing for collateral damage, I like it!!
Run a bead of weld down the inside of the liner, when it cools down the liner cracks and then you just pull it out, I worked on perkins engines for years
Heat it with torch or weld bead, let cool and the sleeve shrinks. Heat it with torch, cool it with water, sleeve shrinks. When you weld something the weld joint shrinks, sweating panels is the same think. Shrink it let fall out.
I did the same in my 1985 M-B diesel engine. Ignore the naysayers. The liner is just thin cast-iron, so breaks easy. On the 1st cylinder, I first ran a weld bead down the liner, as I read on the internet and others state here. But it didn't just drop out so I started tapping w/ a small chisel on the edge from the bottom side. The liner starter folding in, so I inserted a thin screwdriver and found it tapped down easy, folding in the liner. Now smarter, I skipped the welder on the other 4 cyl and just worked the screwdriver in and got each out in 1 min. I hit harder than shown. You can then fold in the liner to drop it out. I had more trouble getting the new liners in. Heated the block over a gas stove and left the liner in the freezer, but still had to place a thick plate on top and beat w/ a sledgehammer. You can hear when they seat at the bottom.
Qlot of keyboard mechanics in here.
How NOT to do that...
this is not the way I do this now, it is the same only without the torch much faster and no heat necessary. As to the "using a press" comments I don't have a press and the all time to set all that up. I saw on youtube guys using an air hammer so i thought I might improve the process. thanks for likes 262K who would've thought.
I've done this lots of times, but used a rosebud tip. Run down the sleeve wall, and you'll see the sleeve bulge toward the center of the bore as you go. Go have coffee and come back 20 minutes later. They fall out with no damage to the block, which is more than can be said for using a sleeve puller.
OR WELD A BEAD AROUND INSIDE OF SLEEVE AND IT WILL FALL OUT.
SLEEVE PULLER! Engine work isn't carpentry!
Its definitely not a procedure recommended by manufacturer... Have You heard about hydraulic press? Old cylinder liners/ sleeves should be pressed out from bottom. That is Perkins recommended way
I don't believe that is the recommended procedure.
Dear Lord ............
I've done similar by tig welding 316 down the side of the sleeve it shrinks it enough to remove with the grips just the same!!! nice vid!!!
Good work. Clever stuff. Thanks.
Thanks for the great video. I'm going to use the same method to remove my sleeves. I hear people saying to use a puller, because you could damage the bores with a screwdriver, but a person would probably have a greater chance of damaging the top of the engine by putting all that crap on top of it and exerting that kind of force. On top of that, it's gonna take alot more time to press them things out.
i use a stick welder, run beads down the bore and the liner will come right out when cool
Good information and useful. Solutions are always based on resources. I've used the arc welder procedure but it scares the hell out of me. Afraid to get too much penetration. This looks less imposing for collateral damage, I like it!!
thank you great to see and very helpful
Super impressed.. very clever.
Run a bead of weld down the inside of the liner, when it cools down the liner cracks and then you just pull it out, I worked on perkins engines for years
Heat it with torch or weld bead, let cool and the sleeve shrinks. Heat it with torch, cool it with water, sleeve shrinks. When you weld something the weld joint shrinks, sweating panels is the same think. Shrink it let fall out.
You got to do what you got to do.