Thanks for the great video. I'm going to use the same method to remove my sleeves. I hear people saying to use a puller, because you could damage the bores with a screwdriver, but a person would probably have a greater chance of damaging the top of the engine by putting all that crap on top of it and exerting that kind of force. On top of that, it's gonna take alot more time to press them things out.
hell if i can get my dexta liner to come out like that ,,i cant even get anything between the liner and the block,,its as if my liners are cast and your,s are like tin,,ive tried the heat like you ,,and ive even tried the weld from top to bottom x2 and then tried pulling with a drawer,,all to no avail,,ive now orderd a 3 inch angle grinder to try cutting a grove,,..yes i know i need to be carefull but what else can i do,,
Run a bead of weld down the inside of the liner, when it cools down the liner cracks and then you just pull it out, I worked on perkins engines for years
Heat it with torch or weld bead, let cool and the sleeve shrinks. Heat it with torch, cool it with water, sleeve shrinks. When you weld something the weld joint shrinks, sweating panels is the same think. Shrink it let fall out.
Much much easier to run an MMA electrode quickly up the inside of the sleeve a couple times and shrink it doesn't put heat into the bore like you did could see vapor rising out of the water jacket holes
I'll use this trick when im in a machine apocalypse like in terminator otherwise i will trash talk your method. Or until one day im stuck and have limited tools then youll find me doing it... But lets hope if it comes to that i can bore it out until it tears first
this is not the way I do this now, it is the same only without the torch much faster and no heat necessary. As to the "using a press" comments I don't have a press and the all time to set all that up. I saw on youtube guys using an air hammer so i thought I might improve the process. thanks for likes 262K who would've thought.
I've done this lots of times, but used a rosebud tip. Run down the sleeve wall, and you'll see the sleeve bulge toward the center of the bore as you go. Go have coffee and come back 20 minutes later. They fall out with no damage to the block, which is more than can be said for using a sleeve puller.
thats a cool video(more than one way of skinning a cat) your teaching people there are other methods to get a job done, without having to use an expensive service tool
not a good idea, you risk the chance of cracking the parent bore. im a gactory trained perkins tech perkins say use a puller i have done it in the field with a welder but you have to run 3 beads from top to bottom and they come right out.
I did the same in my 1985 M-B diesel engine. Ignore the naysayers. The liner is just thin cast-iron, so breaks easy. On the 1st cylinder, I first ran a weld bead down the liner, as I read on the internet and others state here. But it didn't just drop out so I started tapping w/ a small chisel on the edge from the bottom side. The liner starter folding in, so I inserted a thin screwdriver and found it tapped down easy, folding in the liner. Now smarter, I skipped the welder on the other 4 cyl and just worked the screwdriver in and got each out in 1 min. I hit harder than shown. You can then fold in the liner to drop it out. I had more trouble getting the new liners in. Heated the block over a gas stove and left the liner in the freezer, but still had to place a thick plate on top and beat w/ a sledgehammer. You can hear when they seat at the bottom.
Its definitely not a procedure recommended by manufacturer... Have You heard about hydraulic press? Old cylinder liners/ sleeves should be pressed out from bottom. That is Perkins recommended way
Good information and useful. Solutions are always based on resources. I've used the arc welder procedure but it scares the hell out of me. Afraid to get too much penetration. This looks less imposing for collateral damage, I like it!! I get a kick out of some of previous comments. Not everyone works factory!!!
Very interesting, I knocked them up from the bottom on a '58 IH 4 Cyl with a blunt round stock chisel with plenty of penetrant and oil squirt can. No heat was necessary. they were thin and rusty like old beer cans. I also have this eng. in another hoe so- very interesting P.S remember that gut on "Laugh-In" who always said "Very Interesting"? : )
Dude you rough as buck
thank you great to see and very helpful
Thanks for the great video. I'm going to use the same method to remove my sleeves. I hear people saying to use a puller, because you could damage the bores with a screwdriver, but a person would probably have a greater chance of damaging the top of the engine by putting all that crap on top of it and exerting that kind of force. On top of that, it's gonna take alot more time to press them things out.
i use a stick welder, run beads down the bore and the liner will come right out when cool
Big chance to damage the block
Nice job sir
So no warping when heating one side of a cylinder wall like this ? Did you test for any oval shaping ?
I welded cast steel blocks. There is nothing wrong with what he is doing.. Come on.
hell if i can get my dexta liner to come out like that ,,i cant even get anything between the liner and the block,,its as if my liners are cast and your,s are like tin,,ive tried the heat like you ,,and ive even tried the weld from top to bottom x2 and then tried pulling with a drawer,,all to no avail,,ive now orderd a 3 inch angle grinder to try cutting a grove,,..yes i know i need to be carefull but what else can i do,,
ive watched several youtubers doing it this way,,not all use heat as well tho,,now gonna try it on my dexta,
Arc air cutting is easy
That is cool for saving money!
At the expense of maby fucking your block have seen it done by some animals
Qlot of keyboard mechanics in here.
Run a bead of weld down the inside of the liner, when it cools down the liner cracks and then you just pull it out, I worked on perkins engines for years
does that only work on perkins then?
Heat it with torch or weld bead, let cool and the sleeve shrinks. Heat it with torch, cool it with water, sleeve shrinks. When you weld something the weld joint shrinks, sweating panels is the same think. Shrink it let fall out.
Wtf are you smoking? Go grab a proper puller man good God.
Simply turn the engine around and hit from the otherside..
Ouch! puller....
Much much easier to run an MMA electrode quickly up the inside of the sleeve a couple times and shrink it doesn't put heat into the bore like you did could see vapor rising out of the water jacket holes
I'll use this trick when im in a machine apocalypse like in terminator otherwise i will trash talk your method. Or until one day im stuck and have limited tools then youll find me doing it... But lets hope if it comes to that i can bore it out until it tears first
this is not the way I do this now, it is the same only without the torch much faster and no heat necessary. As to the "using a press" comments I don't have a press and the all time to set all that up. I saw on youtube guys using an air hammer so i thought I might improve the process. thanks for likes 262K who would've thought.
If you like to make your own energy you should go to Avasva
gdzie masz przyrząd do wyciągania tulei ciulu!
wyjmowanie tuleji mokrych prawidłowe ale te drugie to podejrzewam że zostało uszkodzone gniazdo tuleji
You said it!
Asesino de motores no te da vergüenza subir ese vídeo cavernícola
if it works, I see no damage - good do this who care if your scared take to machine shop $25 per sleeve press out
I've done this lots of times, but used a rosebud tip. Run down the sleeve wall, and you'll see the sleeve bulge toward the center of the bore as you go. Go have coffee and come back 20 minutes later. They fall out with no damage to the block, which is more than can be said for using a sleeve puller.
a rosebud tip?? is that on the screwdriver or a different type of heat process.
Buy a liner puller before you overhaul
what ever works
He won't be working on my engine buy the proper tools or leave the job alone
if works whats the problem??
thats a cool video(more than one way of skinning a cat) your teaching people there are other methods to get a job done, without having to use an expensive service tool
Well, I guess there's a good reason this video is in the comedy category
Can help set the timing fuel pump timing on 3034 Perkins
lol dumbass
not a good idea, you risk the chance of cracking the parent bore. im a gactory trained perkins tech perkins say use a puller i have done it in the field with a welder but you have to run 3 beads from top to bottom and they come right out.
bigbelconut that video gave me chills. I never seen it done that way before. Lol
I used to know a jackass that removed liners this way. Always scored the shit out of the parent bore.
for fuck sake
Genius!!!!
I did the same in my 1985 M-B diesel engine. Ignore the naysayers. The liner is just thin cast-iron, so breaks easy. On the 1st cylinder, I first ran a weld bead down the liner, as I read on the internet and others state here. But it didn't just drop out so I started tapping w/ a small chisel on the edge from the bottom side. The liner starter folding in, so I inserted a thin screwdriver and found it tapped down easy, folding in the liner. Now smarter, I skipped the welder on the other 4 cyl and just worked the screwdriver in and got each out in 1 min. I hit harder than shown. You can then fold in the liner to drop it out. I had more trouble getting the new liners in. Heated the block over a gas stove and left the liner in the freezer, but still had to place a thick plate on top and beat w/ a sledgehammer. You can hear when they seat at the bottom.
William Grissom ...Did you lubricate the bore & outside of the sleeves with dishsoap?
your fired !!!!pick up and get the fuck out!!!!!!
How NOT to do that...
Its definitely not a procedure recommended by manufacturer... Have You heard about hydraulic press? Old cylinder liners/ sleeves should be pressed out from bottom. That is Perkins recommended way
Perkinz Shmerkinzz! I'll do whatever I want! Pbpbobpb!🕺
Graet Job.! Thanks for upload.
Good information and useful. Solutions are always based on resources. I've used the arc welder procedure but it scares the hell out of me. Afraid to get too much penetration. This looks less imposing for collateral damage, I like it!! I get a kick out of some of previous comments. Not everyone works factory!!!
I've done similar by tig welding 316 down the side of the sleeve it shrinks it enough to remove with the grips just the same!!! nice vid!!!
This 👆 Works every time arc welder with bent rod, cool it down, then the liner falls out.
You got to do what you got to do.
SLEEVE PULLER! Engine work isn't carpentry!
sleeve puller dont work on a 2mm liner
@@singtracks they do I use one all the time
Very interesting, I knocked them up from the bottom on a '58 IH 4 Cyl with a blunt round stock chisel with plenty of penetrant and oil squirt can. No heat was necessary. they were thin and rusty like old beer cans. I also have this eng. in another hoe so- very interesting P.S remember that gut on "Laugh-In" who always said "Very Interesting"? : )
Dear Lord ............
any supplier the all MF parts outside there? Please email to me how i address You.Thanks