Thumbs up, just for being young and not playing video games..actually doing something that's going to make you money and contribute to society. Much respect, young man
Thank you, young men, for not feeling the need to be cussing, unlike so many others. Nice work and instructions. I've never laid a block in my life, but I need to learn so I can build a root cellar on my property.
Been a mason for over 40 years, best tutorial I've seen yet. You know your stuff young man. The only thing I would correct is on the 2nd course on up. There's no need to plumb every block in your lead, just the corner and the ends of the lead, the bottom of the middle blocks line up with the course below, then you just straight edge the top.
I have worked in the concrete construction trades off and on for 35 years . I never layed brick or block but I respect your trade and knowledge. I love it bro. You are a Master Teacher.
Love the video, very good tutorial. I've laid a lot of block but I still learned a thing or two. I like seeing alternative methods and learning ways to improve my own work. I think it makes me a better mason always looking and comparing methods/habits. Love the line block trick on the inside corner; a lot better & cleaner then the tip of a trowel.
I started with cheap, got all into expensive and now back to whatever I have.....funny how over many years perceptions change It's a water bubble encased in a cylinder.....its not really complicated Would never use a $200 level for Mason work, it will be trashed inside a few months.....its a finish carp level
Yeah I love the work I do. I think it's like magic because I don't know how it starts dry, gets wet, then turns into a rock haha. Thank you, I have a lot of practice. I tell people it's my paint brush and I'm an artist 😂
This video is fantastic Mason ! I've been looking for something just like this - you show the tools needed in advance, explain how to use each one as you start and move along. I'm repairing my old stone foundation in my house as it collapsed once I took out old rotted Bilco walls and door entrance. The old creek stone foundation was only 3 ft deep and it collapsed. I had to hire a structural engineer to draw up plans for it. I'm pouring another piece of footer soon. The total length of footer is 37 ft. I had to dig around 5 ft below grade to put a proper height foundation block wall in. No biggie. I'm using 8 x 8 x 16 inch blocks on the footer. I had a guy come in and install the first piece of footer for part of the foundation foot print and the new Bilco entrance. I'm about to pour a 5 ft by 4 ft footer which goes around a back corner and ties into the footer the old contractor put in place. Others asked me why didn't he include the rebar as part of his original footer pour. I believe I have the answer now from your video. I can lie the block in place and retroactively hammer drill holes -- for the vertical rebar - exactly where those need to be. That's a brilliant idea. I don't think my block supplier has those corner blocks w the extra piece which seems to guide where the 2nd block on the bottom tier sits --- going in the opposite direction --- of your very first corner block. I saw in another comment that you're in PA - cool. I'm up here in the Buffalo NY area - so, we have the same weather - we just get a lot more snow. LOL The footer will be fully cured by mid November -- I was told as long as the temp doesn't drop below 35 degrees while I'm slopping in the mortor and the mortor doesn't freeze on me - it's ok to being setting the block in place - w the mortor. Question -- if it's ok to mix the mortor at temps above 35 degrees and the mortor isn't freezing -- does it matter if 3 or 4 hours later or overnight that the temp drops below 35 degrees ? Does that render the mortor ineffective or ruin it ---- or does it just increase the curing time ? I may have more questions as I move along. I'm a perfectionist and it looks like you are too - your video is superb and insanely helpful ! Thanks in advance.
You don’t want the mortar to freeze. It’s hard enough after about 6 hours. So after lunch use antifreeze in the mortar if it freezes at night. Also cover with plastic to keep the frost off
@@masonthemason6412 Thank you for the return comment. I appreciate you taking the time to do so. I'm using my own cement mixer - the "barrel" of it is about the size of a washing machine drum and I'll be using 80lb bags of Quikrete 5000 (please, give me break 😃 I'm an amateur) - how much anti-freeze would I use per 80lb bag ? Thanks in advance.
@@masonthemason6412 Thanks again for the reply Mason. I'm an amateur as I mentioned - so, I have no idea what "If it's a liquid, I do a six count." Please, if you'd explain it to this layman - I would be so appreciative. Thanks in advance.
You said got to match up with other corner blocks with transit before even started with measurements did you transit foundation and start with low side first. Was that your first lead? Then you know in your mind how much mudd to sling for the rest leads
30 years ago when I first started laying Block and Brick first rule was don’t hit your level or you are fired Lol but everyone does it but the old timers didn’t like it enjoy the videos you guys are really good masons 👍👍🧱🧱🔨😎
Back in the day levels were all wooden, each one of those taps will throw out your level by 1/100,000 of an inch lol ntm dimpling the linseed finish. Levels these days are alot more durable and far less sacred.
We used horizontal reinforcement wire, looks like a ladder and came in different widths. No need to score the block it set in the mud betweenthe courses. I agree with the comment below about hitting your level as stated but we all did even though told not to as an apprentice. Over all fine job Youngblood 👍👍👍
Nicely Made Video. Thanks. We generally use solid blocks in the UK, and build two skins. My dad and I lay the outside skin much like you do, but then use a spacer to lay the inside skin, which we wedge in the cavity (space between each skin).
@@masonthemason6412 th-cam.com/video/wgYFLx6S6ec/w-d-xo.html This isn't my video, but it shows how in the UK we typical use concrete solid blocks on outer skins, "thermalite" blocks on inner skin, and then insulation in cavity (you can get EPS bead blown in afterwards which is easier- th-cam.com/video/Qs3PqJE0zng/w-d-xo.html). The two skins are held together with wall ties.
@@johnlorraine204 I had EPS put in the cavity wall on our extension (new build), and it seems fine. The beads are roughly spherical, and cavity in >100mm so I can't see how water could track across. No visible evidence of damp on the inside, its bare lime render internally. I was self building and it was a cheap & labour saving option for me.
@@DorkyThorpy Glad that you have good results; however, that adds confusion to my thoughts. I was considering using EPS on a tropical build. The moisture is high but the heat is high. One video that gave me pause was this: th-cam.com/video/azHyYs7j7Z8/w-d-xo.html
We use to pound a rebar in each corner next to footing lay out dry with tape measure then pull line tight around rebar trig line to each corner then do the whole layout and plumb every single block then build in each corner
I would buy a bag of spec mix mortar, 6 block, a 2 foot level, trowel, and jointer. Then find a small flat piece of concrete that you can dirty up. Then practice building a 3 course corner. You can probably do it 2 or 3 times building and tearing it down. After about 3 times of practice you will probably learn quite a bit
@@masonthemason6412 I've only done brickwork never blocks. Yes I'll be doing 6x8x16 blocks (that's what the pizza oven kit called for). Would I just run the standard brick corner with those?
@@masonthemason6412 to keep it a standard half bond I think would need to add an extra block since I'll be using 6 inch block, wouldn't have that issue with 8 inch 🧱
I'm currently laying block for a 1200 square ft house 8 courses, the people I had do the flat work did not do a professional job so the footers are not level. This didn't pose a problem with the corners, they were flat and level, 25 ft down the wall- there are significant humps. The only thing I can think to do, since my corners are established, is to use a little less mortar here, and a little more there, to get the whole thing level at the top course.. any other pointers??? 3:45
Ya man, that's semi normal...hopefully you can slowly get it back to level...mud the cross webs to keep the block up or use less or softer mud where you need to squeeze
Been doing shit for 25 years and I have to admit that is a mighty fine job sir. Owe yeah run them on 8s if the footers are level sorry had to get that in....
That's a long time, do you still do it? Thank you, it's good to hear that from someone that has lots of experience. I always try to, my dad likes when I crunch them to like 7⅞ to 7¾ bed joints. When I do that it makes it way faster for them to lay the walls up
@@masonthemason6412 I still do... I love to crunch that shit. I hate when they say leve it low so u have to gain an 1" in in 5 courses lol.... u know what I mean. . Only 40 years old amd still blasting em in...
I want to travel the world. I could do this trade anywhere. If I ever have the chance to travel to work I probably will. I just need a RV or something that I can live in and carry my tools
Thanks for including the tools that you need too! I'd like to try and build a new wall around my yard myself. Any tips for beginners? I figure if I did electronics in the Navy, I can do this! 😅
You're welcome. Anyone can do this haha. My tip is to watch a couple more videos and just do it. You have to do it a couple times to catch on to how to spread the mud and set the block. Be gentle, and don't get mad. It just takes a couple days to get it
Is that vertical pieces of rebar dropped in the drilled holes in the footer - are tehy filled with mortar? Is the horizontal pieces every 2 courses...is that required by code in every state?? Sorry for the dumb questions but Im having a garage built and the block crew comes on Monday and I just want to make sure they dont cut any corners!
What if that foundation is not level over its distance. Say one end is 1 inch higher then the other. Do u usually check the level of the foundation before u lay or do u just take it for granted the foundation is level? 2. That rebar u put into the slab, did u have to drill the slab and glue it in?
So you go to the highest corner and start there. Try and make the bed joints as tight as possible. Then every other corner you can make the bed joint bigger to make the height match. Yes you should epoxy the holes
Of course. It gets hard sometimes to keep up with all the comments coming in. I try to answer all the ones with questions to help them out. Appreciate you, thanks
We used to fill all our joints with mortar... Then use wire every other layer, my uncle made a,good point....a 12 inch block is wider than longer so if the rails are set on solid mortar the wall will expand width way
That's a great tutorial Mason! Thinking about building a small inground pool with blocks, run rebar both vertically and horizontally and fill with concrete when done. Plaster, paint and fill with water. What are the odds of that cracking ? Don't wanna build a sieve.
I’d fill it solid. Over time everything cracks. It will last awhile tho. I prefer fiberglass tubs I think they last the longest. In Pennsylvania we can’t build concrete pools. What location are you in
Thank you for making these videos I’m trying to build a small house 900 square-foot in northern Michigan got a quote from a guy 23 1/2 thousand dollars to pour me a basement I’m thinking about doing a block basement myself I have construction knowledge I am a licensed plumber in Michigan. Do you have to use a 12 inch block with the corner block? Or do they have ones that are made for 8 inch block all the way around the basement? If that makes sense
Of course, I'm glad I can help! Yeah masonry isn't cheap, but it lasts forever. You can use normal 8 in block for corner. They mix runner and sash block on pallets. Use sash for corners. They have smooth sides. Check out my 6 video series of how to build a foundation. In the #4 video there is a little bit about 8in corners. All the videos in that would help your foundation process
Thank you . I appreciate your fast response and a response in general. Is your name mason? I will definitely check out the series you’re talking about.
Thank you Mason . My name is Matt if you didn’t realize by my screen name LOL is there any reason I can’t use a regular corner blockWithout the L that the 10’s and 12’s have? I want to build a 13’-4”x 13‘-4”block shed using 8” blocks because I need a shed and lumber is so dang reduculous right now but I’m using this as a learning experience before I try doing a basement which would be a lot for a beginner. I figure I’ll Watch your videos and make my screw ups on the shed rather than a basement in northern Michigan. Where are you guys located? It’s good to see how professional you are with your work it’s good to see other perfectionists out there. Thanks for your time. Matt “pipe doctor”
I have an old block retaining wall with a corner on it. So the wall is shaped like an L. I need to add another wall on to it so that it's shaped like a T. Any suggestions for how to connect new wall to old?
You can use a hammer drill to drill horizontally into the end of your old wall from top to bottom and epoxy rebar dowels into the holes. Then the dowels should stick into the blocks of the new wall and the wall segments will be tied together.
How do you know how many horiz rebars to use? And do you only use 3x vert in each corners and that's it? First time watching your videos, I will dig see if you got more when I got more free time!
Why the ends of the block are open like that why not flush even like in door openings and what if I want to do brick and block, do I need more room for insulation wire every three course or how?
I go to the highest corner of footer every time and start there on 8's for height. Then if the others are lower I make the joints bigger as I put up the wall. If it's out of plum I use rocks to help me level it up. Usually you can get the problem points of the footer out by the 3rd or 4th course
ah yea sure use the 12 corner block. next video show how to use an 8" block and a cinder "brick" to build a 12" corner wall. most of the time when we laid 12 inch walls thats what we used. but it looked good bro. nice work. real nice to have a level footer as well.
Whatever works for you man. My dad wouldn't wanna do that. We would just order the corners. I stick with what works for me. I could not be doing it the best way, but it works for me 100% of the time
@@masonthemason6412 was not dissing bro. mostly wanted 12'corner block. but we had cheap ass builders saving a few pennies. its all good thought you may want to show the other way of building them its all good. enjoy. the work looked good.
I didn't think you were no worries brother. Just explaining. It's easy for text to come off a certain way. I'm cool as a cucumber haha.... Yeah a lot of builders cut corners, I pride myself on doing the best job I can possibly do every time. Yes, yes, I should show more ways, especially bc how good my block videos do compared to the others. Thanks a lot. I really like when people like you give me ideas, it makes it easier on my end. Sometimes it's hard to think of stuff... Thank you! And thanks for watching my video!
I know 10 and 12 all I really used I need to know 8 inch theirs no corners like 10 and 12 inch . Just corner block their not L shaped their square . But I can figure it out Just square . God bless
Very good tutorial again! Was just wondering what is your mix ratio? Cement/Sand/Lime? You should definitely include that because when I was first learning I could never get mud to stick or be the right consistency, which makes a world of difference! Great video though.
Thank you very much! We get a type s mortar bag and 3 buckets of sand. So 3 to 1. I think I'll make a video on just how to make mud. Yeah it does, so does the amount of water you use. If you use too much or to little water it won't stick. Thanks again
Mason, that's my Best Friend's son's name. You have Potential, I suggest go work for a Serious Commercial Company. Then you will Excell your Skills. #1 don't beat on your level and lose the hammer. #2 Rebar is supposed to be Continuous out of the footing, Not 4' on center, that's a fence layout. When drilling for your Verts, the Holes have to be cleaned and you need Epoxy which is stronger than the concrete. Look you can Learn Something New Every Day in this Trade. You want to be a Master Mason some day, Work for the Best. That Block does not look uniform and square, which would Tick me off. Get your hands into Brick, Block, and Stone (Real Stone, not cultured) Why....Because a Master Mason can do it all, and a Master Mason is Extremely Rare !!! Good Luck to you either way
Durawire was Designed for use as a Wall Tie, Not Horizontal Reinforcing. Example....if you use 8X8X16's , you would use 12" Durawire for wall ties for the Brick. It was Not meant for Horizontal Reinforcing, Nothing Beats Rebar, especially solid grouted. Here's another....It's Width X Height X Length always...and a Good way to Remember that is....Women Have Legs 🤣🤣
m.th-cam.com/video/pUfh5HS6QM4/w-d-xo.html
Thumbs up, just for being young and not playing video games..actually doing something that's going to make you money and contribute to society. Much respect, young man
Thank you!
You can go to work and play video games after 😂
Great tutorial. You explained it all without a lot of extra, unnecessary chatter. Well done! Thank you.
You’re a very fortunate guy to have a passion for something
It’s easy to like something when you’re good at it
Thank you, young men, for not feeling the need to be cussing, unlike so many others.
Nice work and instructions.
I've never laid a block in my life, but I need to learn so I can build a root cellar on my property.
Been a mason for over 40 years, best tutorial I've seen yet. You know your stuff young man. The only thing I would correct is on the 2nd course on up. There's no need to plumb every block in your lead, just the corner and the ends of the lead, the bottom of the middle blocks line up with the course below, then you just straight edge the top.
I was taught by a really good block layer! Thank you! Thanks for the tip, I'll try it out!
I think you should if you are not using line and pin
always good to do it on all first course
Hey man this is something I’ve been wondering for a while! Your comment is 3 years old so I’m hoping your still around to answer a question or two
I have worked in the concrete construction trades off and on for 35 years . I never layed brick or block but I respect your trade and knowledge. I love it bro. You are a Master Teacher.
Thank you!!
Thx Much! Everything need to know - answered many of the little details I've been wondering why & how it's done.
Glad I could help
Love the video, very good tutorial. I've laid a lot of block but I still learned a thing or two. I like seeing alternative methods and learning ways to improve my own work. I think it makes me a better mason always looking and comparing methods/habits. Love the line block trick on the inside corner; a lot better & cleaner then the tip of a trowel.
Stabilla is the way to go with levels. Im building corners with zero knowledge to your video helped a lot
I started with cheap, got all into expensive and now back to whatever I have.....funny how over many years perceptions change
It's a water bubble encased in a cylinder.....its not really complicated
Would never use a $200 level for Mason work, it will be trashed inside a few months.....its a finish carp level
Great Instructional video. Nice work.
Thanks!
i worked with blocks like twice and i love how the mortar just connects them all together soo strong its magic. your trowel game is on point
Yeah I love the work I do. I think it's like magic because I don't know how it starts dry, gets wet, then turns into a rock haha. Thank you, I have a lot of practice. I tell people it's my paint brush and I'm an artist 😂
This video is fantastic Mason ! I've been looking for something just like this - you show the tools needed in advance, explain how to use each one as you start and move along. I'm repairing my old stone foundation in my house as it collapsed once I took out old rotted Bilco walls and door entrance.
The old creek stone foundation was only 3 ft deep and it collapsed.
I had to hire a structural engineer to draw up plans for it. I'm pouring another piece of footer soon. The total length of footer is 37 ft. I had to dig around 5 ft below grade to put a proper height foundation block wall in. No biggie.
I'm using 8 x 8 x 16 inch blocks on the footer. I had a guy come in and install the first piece of footer for part of the foundation foot print and the new Bilco entrance.
I'm about to pour a 5 ft by 4 ft footer which goes around a back corner and ties into the footer the old contractor put in place.
Others asked me why didn't he include the rebar as part of his original footer pour. I believe I have the answer now from your video. I can lie the block in place and retroactively hammer drill holes -- for the vertical rebar - exactly where those need to be. That's a brilliant idea.
I don't think my block supplier has those corner blocks w the extra piece which seems to guide where the 2nd block on the bottom tier sits --- going in the opposite direction --- of your very first corner block.
I saw in another comment that you're in PA - cool. I'm up here in the Buffalo NY area - so, we have the same weather - we just get a lot more snow. LOL
The footer will be fully cured by mid November -- I was told as long as the temp doesn't drop below 35 degrees while I'm slopping in the mortor and the mortor doesn't freeze on me - it's ok to being setting the block in place - w the mortor.
Question -- if it's ok to mix the mortor at temps above 35 degrees and the mortor isn't freezing -- does it matter if 3 or 4 hours later or overnight that the temp drops below 35 degrees ? Does that render the mortor ineffective or ruin it ---- or does it just increase the curing time ?
I may have more questions as I move along. I'm a perfectionist and it looks like you are too - your video is superb and insanely helpful ! Thanks in advance.
You don’t want the mortar to freeze. It’s hard enough after about 6 hours. So after lunch use antifreeze in the mortar if it freezes at night. Also cover with plastic to keep the frost off
@@masonthemason6412 Thank you for the return comment. I appreciate you taking the time to do so. I'm using my own cement mixer - the "barrel" of it is about the size of a washing machine drum and I'll be using 80lb bags of Quikrete 5000 (please, give me break 😃 I'm an amateur) - how much anti-freeze would I use per 80lb bag ? Thanks in advance.
If it’s a liquid, I do a six count
@@masonthemason6412 Thanks again for the reply Mason. I'm an amateur as I mentioned - so, I have no idea what "If it's a liquid, I do a six count." Please, if you'd explain it to this layman - I would be so appreciative. Thanks in advance.
If you have a liquid anti freeze, start dumping and count to six and that should do the trick
You said got to match up with other corner blocks with transit before even started with measurements did you transit foundation and start with low side first. Was that your first lead? Then you know in your mind how much mudd to sling for the rest leads
I always start with the highest ones and lay them tight. One this job I had stepped footers to the garage, so I had a height to hit already
Great video, concise, to the point. I learned a lot.
Awesome! Glad I could show you something!
Great video!😎💪👍
Thanks!
30 years ago when I first started laying Block and Brick first rule was don’t hit your level or you are fired Lol but everyone does it but the old timers didn’t like it enjoy the videos you guys are really good masons 👍👍🧱🧱🔨😎
Yeah a big no no, but that’s how I do it lol. Thanks so much!
Back in the day levels were all wooden, each one of those taps will throw out your level by 1/100,000 of an inch lol ntm dimpling the linseed finish.
Levels these days are alot more durable and far less sacred.
If I beat it too bad, I’ll go buy a new one haha
Old timers are more stupid than the young people walking this earth
@@CanadianMason85 good shit
Thanks for this vídeo, só excellently explained. You earned my subscription.
Thanks!!!
Fine job buddy nice to see others tricks
Thank you!
I like it when there's 'no thinking'☺
We used horizontal reinforcement wire, looks like a ladder and came in different widths. No need to score the block it set in the mud betweenthe courses.
I agree with the comment below about hitting your level as stated but we all did even though told not to as an apprentice.
Over all fine job Youngblood 👍👍👍
Nicely Made Video. Thanks. We generally use solid blocks in the UK, and build two skins. My dad and I lay the outside skin much like you do, but then use a spacer to lay the inside skin, which we wedge in the cavity (space between each skin).
Thank you! I've heard that before, I'd like to learn how you do it. I'm interested in every way our trade is done. One day maybe I'll get to learn
@@masonthemason6412 th-cam.com/video/wgYFLx6S6ec/w-d-xo.html This isn't my video, but it shows how in the UK we typical use concrete solid blocks on outer skins, "thermalite" blocks on inner skin, and then insulation in cavity (you can get EPS bead blown in afterwards which is easier- th-cam.com/video/Qs3PqJE0zng/w-d-xo.html). The two skins are held together with wall ties.
@@DorkyThorpy What of EPS beads and the wicking and trapping of moisture within the wall cavity?
@@johnlorraine204 I had EPS put in the cavity wall on our extension (new build), and it seems fine. The beads are roughly spherical, and cavity in >100mm so I can't see how water could track across. No visible evidence of damp on the inside, its bare lime render internally. I was self building and it was a cheap & labour saving option for me.
@@DorkyThorpy Glad that you have good results; however, that adds confusion to my thoughts. I was considering using EPS on a tropical build. The moisture is high but the heat is high. One video that gave me pause was this:
th-cam.com/video/azHyYs7j7Z8/w-d-xo.html
Great demonstration.
Vinaka
Thank you
very good video pal
Thanks!
We use to pound a rebar in each corner next to footing lay out dry with tape measure then pull line tight around rebar trig line to each corner then do the whole layout and plumb every single block then build in each corner
Good work bro
All the best
Another question can you show how you build up corners when foundation is lower one side to other like inches out of wack
How many inches?
Nice video nice work ,.
Thanks
Great video and wonderful information
Thanks!!
Sweet very informative
Great video
Thanks man very helpful video. One question though do you have to use the special corner brick? I've seen people just use normal ones. Thanks
I use a special one for 10 in and 12in block. You don’t need a special one for 8in block
You don't have the option of special corner blocks in Bulgaria.
I just stumbled on this
Please how do I learn?
I would buy a bag of spec mix mortar, 6 block, a 2 foot level, trowel, and jointer. Then find a small flat piece of concrete that you can dirty up. Then practice building a 3 course corner. You can probably do it 2 or 3 times building and tearing it down. After about 3 times of practice you will probably learn quite a bit
@@masonthemason6412 the best advice I have gotten so far in the building aspect
Thank you very much
You're welcome!
great video - thanks.
Do you need the special corner blocks if you're just laying a small wall foundation for a pizza oven?
Every job varies. If you use 8in block you don’t need corners
@@masonthemason6412 I've only done brickwork never blocks. Yes I'll be doing 6x8x16 blocks (that's what the pizza oven kit called for). Would I just run the standard brick corner with those?
I would think so. I’d have to see more to give you the way I would build it
@@masonthemason6412 to keep it a standard half bond I think would need to add an extra block since I'll be using 6 inch block, wouldn't have that issue with 8 inch 🧱
You’ll just have a 2in piece
I'm currently laying block for a 1200 square ft house 8 courses, the people I had do the flat work did not do a professional job so the footers are not level. This didn't pose a problem with the corners, they were flat and level, 25 ft down the wall- there are significant humps. The only thing I can think to do, since my corners are established, is to use a little less mortar here, and a little more there, to get the whole thing level at the top course.. any other pointers??? 3:45
Ya man, that's semi normal...hopefully you can slowly get it back to level...mud the cross webs to keep the block up or use less or softer mud where you need to squeeze
Even in a professional environment the concrete is rarely perfect, more so these days...I contend with this daily
@Master Samurai , thank you. Slowly as I go up, it's coming together. Got my 8 block leads perfect to the laser, laying them to the line!
Been doing shit for 25 years and I have to admit that is a mighty fine job sir. Owe yeah run them on 8s if the footers are level sorry had to get that in....
That's a long time, do you still do it? Thank you, it's good to hear that from someone that has lots of experience. I always try to, my dad likes when I crunch them to like 7⅞ to 7¾ bed joints. When I do that it makes it way faster for them to lay the walls up
@@masonthemason6412 I still do... I love to crunch that shit. I hate when they say leve it low so u have to gain an 1" in in 5 courses lol.... u know what I mean. . Only 40 years old amd still blasting em in...
@@gabec6522 yeah I prefer crunching over picking up any day. That's awesome keep it up 💪 you're about the same age as my dad. I'm 20
@@masonthemason6412 nice. .y dad is 72 and still kicking. Glad to see the young guys doing it... bless you man. He has to be proud.
That's great. Yeah it's rare to meet someone our age working like us. Thanks, bless you too. I hope he is haha
Wow! If you’re in Houston, I need to hire you to lay these blocks in my yard!
I want to travel the world. I could do this trade anywhere. If I ever have the chance to travel to work I probably will. I just need a RV or something that I can live in and carry my tools
Love your videos 📹
Thank you!!
Thanks for including the tools that you need too! I'd like to try and build a new wall around my yard myself. Any tips for beginners? I figure if I did electronics in the Navy, I can do this! 😅
You're welcome. Anyone can do this haha. My tip is to watch a couple more videos and just do it. You have to do it a couple times to catch on to how to spread the mud and set the block. Be gentle, and don't get mad. It just takes a couple days to get it
Good tutorial
Thanks!
If you've never tried this, it is an Alien feeling twisting and turning the trowel to lay the mortar.....totally different from any other trade.
if I am only doing three rows. should I do the horizon re enforcement on the top row or still just put after second row?
Mason, what do you do when you have squeezed the bed joint too far?
Is that vertical pieces of rebar dropped in the drilled holes in the footer - are tehy filled with mortar? Is the horizontal pieces every 2 courses...is that required by code in every state??
Sorry for the dumb questions but Im having a garage built and the block crew comes on Monday and I just want to make sure they dont cut any corners!
Drill the rebar in the footer for vertical rebar. Either wire or rebar horizontal every 2 or 3 courses. Every project has different specs
Sometimes you don’t even need the horizontal if it doesn’t say on the prints
Your vertical rebar should always be set when the foundation/ footer is poured.
Do I need rebar for an 8x10 shed? Or can I just try to do it without rebar?
Wouldn’t hurt to add rebar. I usually just add fiber
What if that foundation is not level over its distance. Say one end is 1 inch higher then the other. Do u usually check the level of the foundation before u lay or do u just take it for granted the foundation is level?
2. That rebar u put into the slab, did u have to drill the slab and glue it in?
So you go to the highest corner and start there. Try and make the bed joints as tight as possible. Then every other corner you can make the bed joint bigger to make the height match.
Yes you should epoxy the holes
@@masonthemason6412 Thank u for your prompt reply and good advice.
Not many utubers follow up on their comments section.
Of course. It gets hard sometimes to keep up with all the comments coming in. I try to answer all the ones with questions to help them out. Appreciate you, thanks
When you drill for your pins, you just drive them in, right? no epoxy since they'll be secured with the block fill?
Well explained..Vinaka friend.
Thank you, I hope I helped you out. Vinaka vaka levu
We used to fill all our joints with mortar...
Then use wire every other layer, my uncle made a,good point....a 12 inch block is wider than longer so if the rails are set on solid mortar the wall will expand width way
Are these blocks used to support exterior brick?
The old timers used to set the block into the wet footing 1/4"
Great job 👏. One question, have you every install a story corner pole? Instead of build the corner lead.
No I haven’t done that with block. You probably could tho
Thank you so clear.
Your welcome
11:28 whats that tools u use? Is that a leveler? Can u tell me the tools name?
Laser level. In this video I used a pls later level. There’s different brands
Beautiful
That's a great tutorial Mason! Thinking about building a small inground pool with blocks, run rebar both vertically and horizontally and fill with concrete when done. Plaster, paint and fill with water. What are the odds of that cracking ? Don't wanna build a sieve.
I’d fill it solid. Over time everything cracks. It will last awhile tho. I prefer fiberglass tubs I think they last the longest. In Pennsylvania we can’t build concrete pools. What location are you in
Keep the videos 📹 coming
Trying too haha
Nice video bud, keep it going 😎
Thank you, trying too lol. The weather has been slowing us down
Your channel is awesome🔥 lots of great content. thanks for watching my video!
Thanks for showing it you doing great !🙏
@@JayKTS you're welcome, thanks!
Nice bro
What brand mortar do you use?
was this for a underground bunker/basement
How did you place or anchor the iron bars?
Hammer drill
When you put your drain system in on the outside does it set on top of the footer next to the block or does it set lower than the block ?
We usually put it next to footer, so below the block
Muy bien amigo 👍
Gracias amigo
Thank you for making these videos I’m trying to build a small house 900 square-foot in northern Michigan got a quote from a guy 23 1/2 thousand dollars to pour me a basement I’m thinking about doing a block basement myself I have construction knowledge I am a licensed plumber in Michigan. Do you have to use a 12 inch block with the corner block? Or do they have ones that are made for 8 inch block all the way around the basement? If that makes sense
Of course, I'm glad I can help! Yeah masonry isn't cheap, but it lasts forever. You can use normal 8 in block for corner. They mix runner and sash block on pallets. Use sash for corners. They have smooth sides. Check out my 6 video series of how to build a foundation. In the #4 video there is a little bit about 8in corners. All the videos in that would help your foundation process
m.th-cam.com/play/PLU5uFXb4HW8SqO4AfuniidNQLljspIuuJ.html
Thank you . I appreciate your fast response and a response in general. Is your name mason? I will definitely check out the series you’re talking about.
Oh, of course. I try and answer everyone, especially people needed help. Yeah I'm Mason, good babe for my trade lol. Thanks, I hope it helps you out
Thank you Mason . My name is Matt if you didn’t realize by my screen name LOL is there any reason I can’t use a regular corner blockWithout the L that the 10’s and 12’s have? I want to build a 13’-4”x 13‘-4”block shed using 8” blocks because I need a shed and lumber is so dang reduculous right now but I’m using this as a learning experience before I try doing a basement which would be a lot for a beginner. I figure I’ll Watch your videos and make my screw ups on the shed rather than a basement in northern Michigan. Where are you guys located? It’s good to see how professional you are with your work it’s good to see other perfectionists out there. Thanks for your time. Matt “pipe doctor”
I have an old block retaining wall with a corner on it. So the wall is shaped like an L. I need to add another wall on to it so that it's shaped like a T. Any suggestions for how to connect new wall to old?
You can use a hammer drill to drill horizontally into the end of your old wall from top to bottom and epoxy rebar dowels into the holes. Then the dowels should stick into the blocks of the new wall and the wall segments will be tied together.
How do you know how many horiz rebars to use? And do you only use 3x vert in each corners and that's it?
First time watching your videos, I will dig see if you got more when I got more free time!
It all depends on the specs on the print
Why the ends of the block are open like that why not flush even like in door openings and what if I want to do brick and block, do I need more room for insulation wire every three course or how?
Do you put mud into the holes where the rebar is?
Yes. In the next couple videos I'm putting out will explain that.
@@masonthemason6412 Awesome thanks, I am just about watching them as well. Good job bro!
Do you use folding rules anymore that's what we used in my time
I use them on brick jobs. Not so much block
Mason makes masonry look easy----a professional!◇◇◇O'Keefe is good cream for working hands that are dried out.
Thank you
What do you do if the footer is uneven?
I go to the highest corner of footer every time and start there on 8's for height. Then if the others are lower I make the joints bigger as I put up the wall. If it's out of plum I use rocks to help me level it up. Usually you can get the problem points of the footer out by the 3rd or 4th course
is it mud or cement ??
Mud. It's one bag type s mortar to 3 buckets of sand
4:52 Don't do that to your level, it's a precision tool
In Trinidad we set up profile its faster
What if the corner nail is in the way of tapping your block down?🙁
I either pull it out after I snap chalk lines. Or I break the bottom corner of the corner block off
Good job but why do you level down the center web of the block that doesn’t do you any good
Where comes the insulation in?
ah yea sure use the 12 corner block. next video show how to use an 8" block and a cinder "brick" to build a 12" corner wall.
most of the time when we laid 12 inch walls thats what we used. but it looked good bro. nice work. real nice to have a level footer as well.
Whatever works for you man. My dad wouldn't wanna do that. We would just order the corners. I stick with what works for me. I could not be doing it the best way, but it works for me 100% of the time
@@masonthemason6412 was not dissing bro. mostly wanted 12'corner block.
but we had cheap ass builders saving a few pennies.
its all good thought you may want to show the other way of building them its all good. enjoy. the work looked good.
I didn't think you were no worries brother. Just explaining. It's easy for text to come off a certain way. I'm cool as a cucumber haha.... Yeah a lot of builders cut corners, I pride myself on doing the best job I can possibly do every time. Yes, yes, I should show more ways, especially bc how good my block videos do compared to the others. Thanks a lot. I really like when people like you give me ideas, it makes it easier on my end. Sometimes it's hard to think of stuff... Thank you! And thanks for watching my video!
why outside plum not inside ??
So the measurements stay right to the top of the wall
No rebar?¿
I know 10 and 12 all I really used I need to know 8 inch theirs no corners like 10 and 12 inch . Just corner block their not L shaped their square . But I can figure it out Just square . God bless
Can you teach me me my friend❤
We put pie Laster‘s every 8 foot
good work bro but you should wear glasses when you're cutting the block
Thank you, yeah you're right. Not safe haha
U guys should buy some bond beam block so u don't gotta hammer cut em. Or a saw n u can cut a whole pallet in 20 minutes.
Nice lead tho 👌
Yeah that's a good idea, thank you!
Thanks a lot!
Very good tutorial again! Was just wondering what is your mix ratio? Cement/Sand/Lime? You should definitely include that because when I was first learning I could never get mud to stick or be the right consistency, which makes a world of difference! Great video though.
Thank you very much! We get a type s mortar bag and 3 buckets of sand. So 3 to 1. I think I'll make a video on just how to make mud. Yeah it does, so does the amount of water you use. If you use too much or to little water it won't stick. Thanks again
Material is set up to close to wall line you can't move.
Don't bang the level especially where the vials are.
35 years in this masonry business.. Good work but ion need all that..
Top top top
Level first then plumb
out here we arent allowed to leave any snots on the inside of block
Looks like its out of plumb around a 32 of an inch , take it down ! ( just kidding , nice work well done )
Haha
@@masonthemason6412 Bricklayers Have to stick together , it’s the trade people marvel at when the job is finished .
when you go to plumb your jam, put your hammer in your hand...
That rebar is useless, if it’s not part f the foundation pour.
Where can I find that Xxx level 🤔 🤣
When I start my tool company. That’s gonna be my logo. It’s a M and a W overlapping. Haha
Mason, that's my Best Friend's son's name. You have Potential, I suggest go work for a Serious Commercial Company. Then you will Excell your Skills. #1 don't beat on your level and lose the hammer. #2 Rebar is supposed to be Continuous out of the footing, Not 4' on center, that's a fence layout. When drilling for your Verts, the Holes have to be cleaned and you need Epoxy which is stronger than the concrete. Look you can Learn Something New Every Day in this Trade. You want to be a Master Mason some day, Work for the Best. That Block does not look uniform and square, which would Tick me off. Get your hands into Brick, Block, and Stone (Real Stone, not cultured) Why....Because a Master Mason can do it all, and a Master Mason is Extremely Rare !!! Good Luck to you either way
Durawire was Designed for use as a Wall Tie, Not Horizontal Reinforcing. Example....if you use 8X8X16's , you would use 12" Durawire for wall ties for the Brick. It was Not meant for Horizontal Reinforcing, Nothing Beats Rebar, especially solid grouted. Here's another....It's Width X Height X Length always...and a Good way to Remember that is....Women Have Legs 🤣🤣
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