I saw that too , was going to make a comment on it but saw yours, and justed added. It's always nice when you don't have to beat em' to get em' to do what ya want.😁
I recently ordered the 6112 suspension package from Stage 3 Motorsports, which is currently on sale. I wanted to level my 2020 F150 from the day I purchased it, and after much consideration as to how I wanted to do it, I felt the Bilstein 6112 suspension package was the best way to go. Given the sale price, plus the fact the kit comes with 5100 rear shocks, there was no way I could pass that deal up. Looking forward to getting some 275/65 R20's after the installation is done. I also ordered the Borla S-type from Stage 3 Motorsports (dual rear outlet, black tips) which gave my 5.0 engine the proper V8 rumble. Shipping was fast. Good company to deal with.
@@jordans.1910 I went a different route altogether with wheels and tires. My preference is less wheel, more tire. The factory 20s came off in exchange for Fuel assault 17 x 8.5 +14mm offset. Tires are Toyo Open Country 3s, LT 285/75 R17, load range C. The overall look of the wheel / tire combo is pretty much flush with the body. I am not a fan whatsoever of wheels poking out past the fenders. I have no complaints about the ride. The C rated tires are a bit stiffer than the P rated factory, but it's not at all uncomfortable. They air down nicely for driving on the beach. Never even came close to getting stuck in the sand. Gotta love the F150 line of trucks. The modification possibilities are endless.
You guys didn't pull a vacuum on the front hub, every other installation I have seen pulls a vacuum before removing the drive shaft from The hub. Why was that? Also this is the first video I've seen that doesn't remove the brakes and brake rotor, glad to see it works this way too
You can align the splines without pulling vacuum. But it must be the very last step in completing the job. DO NOT crank that axle nut down until you have splined these two together by hand. How to do that: Once everything is back together, and with the truck off, you spin your hub while pushing the axle towards it until they spline together. You’ll know they’re splined because the hub and the axle will then spin in unison. Once the hub and axle are spinning in unison, you are safe to crank the nut down. I know this because I replaced my front hub and bearing on a 2014 FX4 using this method.
I wonder if this kit would ride nicer set at stock height with a 2" leveling kit on top of it? If you think about it, the spring will be compressed more at the 2" setting, so if you let it down to stock it should ride smoother, then put a leveling kit on top of it...
By placing a 2"spacer on top of the strut assembly, then placing the strut on the truck, you are still adding 2 inches of compression to the shock, there is no difference.
Like the wheel and tire combo, what wheels are those? Diameter? Width? Offset? Also what size tire? I’m putting fox 2.0 leveling kit on my 2018 and like the stance of your project truck with the new wheels!
We'll have full details on the wheel and tires coming in another video soon! For now find all the info here! www.stage3motorsports.com/Stage-3s-2018-F150-5-0L-Budget-Builds-7500-Budget.html
Why did you remove the Rancho readylift strut? I'm on the fence between the Rancho and Bilsteins. Rancho seems easier install but I've had good luck with Bilstein on my Jeeps.
John, part of this build is increasing in budget since the Ranchos are the cheapest coilover replacement on the market we decided to step it up, these are going to get pulled out and replaced with several other sets. overall after 1,500 + on and off road miles we'd take the Bilsteins, check out our reviews coming out tonight and tomorrow!
got my truck w a 3.5in kit from ready lift, would i be able to put these on at stock height than put the puck on top? would just be til i source the parts to raptor swap it?
Why would you need the springs if you have to disassemble the strut you can use the factory like the 5100’s do . I would like them better it the cam complete like the ranchos or fox
I would just like to know why to remove the dust cover that He cut with the knife. Is that the bumper is bigger or what?. I just want to know the reason. Thank you very much
When assembling the spring and strut with the wall compressor, how do you know what the proper alignment is for the 3 bolts on top with the 2 bolt holes on the other end?
Ever heard of a torque wrench? And the only time he's not feathering that impact trigger like a fool is when he's cranking down that strut top nut with the spring still compressed. Bilstein instructions say, "Do not use impact tools for loosening or tightening fasteners, because this may destroy the screw threads." I think you're supposed to start the nut, then take the tension off the spring and torque it.
@@swashington942 I would torque the axle nut to proper spec, but that's about it. Most of these idiots making comments about torque wrenches have never worked as full time repair tech in their lives. Yes, there's a time and a place for proper torque, but when it comes to suspension parts, 99.9% of mechanics, including myself, gun those fasteners back together when possible. I know exactly how tight an upper strut nut has to be...about 2 short bursts with an impact gun once it bottoms out. That's how it's done in the field during the daily grind.
I found it on your website, package # BIL611253. I'm thinking adding 3"block at the back.. Only showing at your website is front and rear shock and strut and upper control arm. So this package is without rear block and u bolts?
Bilstein is specific with their part numbers, currently they only offer 09-13 & 15-18 but if you're not looking to wait around for them to release at 14 specific the 09-13 made for steel bodies will do the trick, find them in the link! www.stage3motorsports.com/47-244634-2009-2013-F150-4WD-Bilstein-B8-6112-Front-Coilover-Kit.html
When only leveling your truck UCA's aren't necessary unless you just want the added benefits of upgraded UCA's. You'll defintly want to upgrade your UCA's if you're looking at a 4" lift or higher! Check out our UCA's here! www.stage3motorsports.com/2015-F150-Upper-Control-Arms.html
We were surprisingly satisfied with the Ranchos, Check out our review video of them on this truck in the link! th-cam.com/video/4d9JOS2Po7E/w-d-xo.html
theoretically yes, but you don't want to do more than 2.5" of level, the CV axle and UCA angles are horrible. I learned this the hard way lol. I won't ever do more than a 2" level from now on .
@@wreybinrios5098 Ya on my old truck with a 3" level kit I replaced the UCA but the CV angles are still horrible and caused me trouble. If you do any real off-roading you're likely to have them wear out really fast. Plus with the 3"' level the suspension travel is still almost maxed out when you hit even a small bump. Super uncomfortable. With my newest truck I've put a real 4" lift kit on it that keeps all the angles at stock. It's more money but way more comfortable and will last longer.
LOL why is there a 15+ kit and a 09 kit, are they not both the same suspension on both? Also, why do the kits only fit 4wd, are they not both the same 2wd 4wd suspensions. I can only imagine they are valved differently and have no physical differences?
Ford made some changes between 14-15 that creates the reason for the two kits, 2WD & 4WD kits are different also but we want to be able to offer product to everyone.
I don't know how anyone is doing this at home...2 different spring compressors and there's no way in hell I can compress the spring enough to get the strut to even slightly poke out the top hat...
@@73NF14Ret I’ve only seen Suspension Surplus offering it. Who else does? I don’t have a wall mount compressor. Certainly not going to buy one to use once. The older compressors look sketchy to use. I like my truck but not enough to get killed for it lol
I bought this set to use for my 2015 F-150 “Shankly Spring Compressor Tool (2 Pieces) - Heavy Duty Build, Ultra Rugged Coil Spring Compressor, Strong and Durable Spring Compressor with Safety Guard and Carrying Case” on Amazon, and one of the standard $25 sets. These will do the job by themselves, but I used them with the $25 set and had 4 compression point set to be safe. Of course you could probably have a shop swap the tops out for you for about he same price.
The knuckle saw the hammer coming and said ok I’ll release don’t hit me! 😂😂
I saw that too!
I saw that too , was going to make a comment on it but saw yours, and justed added.
It's always nice when you don't have to beat em' to get em' to do what ya want.😁
True
I recently ordered the 6112 suspension package from Stage 3 Motorsports, which is currently on sale. I wanted to level my 2020 F150 from the day I purchased it, and after much consideration as to how I wanted to do it, I felt the Bilstein 6112 suspension package was the best way to go. Given the sale price, plus the fact the kit comes with 5100 rear shocks, there was no way I could pass that deal up. Looking forward to getting some 275/65 R20's after the installation is done. I also ordered the Borla S-type from Stage 3 Motorsports (dual rear outlet, black tips) which gave my 5.0 engine the proper V8 rumble. Shipping was fast. Good company to deal with.
Did you ever get your 20s put on with this kit? How was the ride vs stock?
@@jordans.1910 I went a different route altogether with wheels and tires. My preference is less wheel, more tire. The factory 20s came off in exchange for Fuel assault 17 x 8.5 +14mm offset. Tires are Toyo Open Country 3s, LT 285/75 R17, load range C. The overall look of the wheel / tire combo is pretty much flush with the body. I am not a fan whatsoever of wheels poking out past the fenders. I have no complaints about the ride. The C rated tires are a bit stiffer than the P rated factory, but it's not at all uncomfortable. They air down nicely for driving on the beach. Never even came close to getting stuck in the sand. Gotta love the F150 line of trucks. The modification possibilities are endless.
UCA bolts need to be tightened at ride height or the bushings fail prematurely.
You guys didn't pull a vacuum on the front hub, every other installation I have seen pulls a vacuum before removing the drive shaft from The hub. Why was that? Also this is the first video I've seen that doesn't remove the brakes and brake rotor, glad to see it works this way too
I was thinking the same. I’d like to know why or why not about the vacuum.
You can align the splines without pulling vacuum. But it must be the very last step in completing the job. DO NOT crank that axle nut down until you have splined these two together by hand. How to do that: Once everything is back together, and with the truck off, you spin your hub while pushing the axle towards it until they spline together. You’ll know they’re splined because the hub and the axle will then spin in unison. Once the hub and axle are spinning in unison, you are safe to crank the nut down. I know this because I replaced my front hub and bearing on a 2014 FX4 using this method.
No torque wrenches were harmed in the making of this video.
Was going to say the same thing
hahaha
exactly why I don't trust people working on my stuff
funny family members cars I work on make jokes I will mess up their car. Compared to a shop? They have no idea
I wonder if this kit would ride nicer set at stock height with a 2" leveling kit on top of it? If you think about it, the spring will be compressed more at the 2" setting, so if you let it down to stock it should ride smoother, then put a leveling kit on top of it...
By placing a 2"spacer on top of the strut assembly, then placing the strut on the truck, you are still adding 2 inches of compression to the shock, there is no difference.
Like the wheel and tire combo, what wheels are those? Diameter? Width? Offset? Also what size tire? I’m putting fox 2.0 leveling kit on my 2018 and like the stance of your project truck with the new wheels!
We'll have full details on the wheel and tires coming in another video soon! For now find all the info here! www.stage3motorsports.com/Stage-3s-2018-F150-5-0L-Budget-Builds-7500-Budget.html
Why did you remove the Rancho readylift strut? I'm on the fence between the Rancho and Bilsteins. Rancho seems easier install but I've had good luck with Bilstein on my Jeeps.
John, part of this build is increasing in budget since the Ranchos are the cheapest coilover replacement on the market we decided to step it up, these are going to get pulled out and replaced with several other sets. overall after 1,500 + on and off road miles we'd take the Bilsteins, check out our reviews coming out tonight and tomorrow!
got my truck w a 3.5in kit from ready lift, would i be able to put these on at stock height than put the puck on top? would just be til i source the parts to raptor swap it?
Why would you need the springs if you have to disassemble the strut you can use the factory like the 5100’s do . I would like them better it the cam complete like the ranchos or fox
Springs are different due to the height increase over stock. I believe the diameter of the coil steel is thicker, too.
What was the purpose of removing the dust cap and axel nut in this video if the axel isn’t removed from the hub?
They skip showing a LOT of steps in the video, but they do show the hub removed at about 4:56 during the re-install.
I would just like to know why to remove the dust cover that He cut with the knife. Is that the bumper is bigger or what?. I just want to know the reason.
Thank you very much
Look at the diameter of the Bilstein compared to the stock strut - its considerably wider and won't fit into that plastic dust cover
When assembling the spring and strut with the wall compressor, how do you know what the proper alignment is for the 3 bolts on top with the 2 bolt holes on the other end?
You mark it on the spring, and the top and bottom spring seats
I was going to get these but then I realized that I was fresh out of spring compressors!
Well, substitute summer compressors then!
Ever heard of a torque wrench? And the only time he's not feathering that impact trigger like a fool is when he's cranking down that strut top nut with the spring still compressed. Bilstein instructions say, "Do not use impact tools for loosening or tightening fasteners, because this may destroy the screw
threads." I think you're supposed to start the nut, then take the tension off the spring and torque it.
Makes me cringe not using one :(
I’m pretty sure none of the nuts fell off. Fucking keyboard “know it alls”.
@@swashington942 I would torque the axle nut to proper spec, but that's about it. Most of these idiots making comments about torque wrenches have never worked as full time repair tech in their lives. Yes, there's a time and a place for proper torque, but when it comes to suspension parts, 99.9% of mechanics, including myself, gun those fasteners back together when possible. I know exactly how tight an upper strut nut has to be...about 2 short bursts with an impact gun once it bottoms out. That's how it's done in the field during the daily grind.
Oh, look, another keyboard mechanic expert.
Would this be a good option for a Chevy 1500 I have a heavy ranchhand bumper and a little concerned about the weight of it.
I Got The Same Set On My New F150 and i love how my truck looks now 😎👍 Love This Channel. Great Job Guys👌
Thanks man, this was a great setup we loved exploring with!
What year?
Stage 3 Motorsports, does anything at all change when installing this on a 2013(the video shows a 2015)??
I am trying to do this job soon. Can you provide a link showing a front suspension torque specs? Thanks.
Grab a repair manual from your local parts store
I found it on your website,
package # BIL611253.
I'm thinking adding 3"block at the back..
Only showing at your website is front and rear shock and strut and upper control arm.
So this package is without rear block and u bolts?
Why was the axle nut and dust cover removed?
Does not show if Vacuum lines or hub assembly was removed from lower control arm?
Thanks
Why is the 2014 excluded? Some other kits (icon/fox) include the 14 with the later models?
Bilstein is specific with their part numbers, currently they only offer 09-13 & 15-18 but if you're not looking to wait around for them to release at 14 specific the 09-13 made for steel bodies will do the trick, find them in the link! www.stage3motorsports.com/47-244634-2009-2013-F150-4WD-Bilstein-B8-6112-Front-Coilover-Kit.html
@@stage3motorsports not true! The 14 uses the same bottom mount as the 15& up.
Where can I get them and how much?
Why is the diameter of those struts so much larger than the kit I received from you for my 15 4x4?
Did you by the 5100 kit or the 6112/5160 kit?
Would you recommend aftermarket UCAs?
When only leveling your truck UCA's aren't necessary unless you just want the added benefits of upgraded UCA's. You'll defintly want to upgrade your UCA's if you're looking at a 4" lift or higher! Check out our UCA's here! www.stage3motorsports.com/2015-F150-Upper-Control-Arms.html
How were the old ranchos?
We were surprisingly satisfied with the Ranchos, Check out our review video of them on this truck in the link! th-cam.com/video/4d9JOS2Po7E/w-d-xo.html
Will these work with the 7" ready lift kit for the f150?
Do you have lowering kit for expedition 2019?
No torque specs?
Can you add a 2.5 level spacer level kit to these and set the snap ring to the 1st setting and achieve 3in of lift?
theoretically yes, but you don't want to do more than 2.5" of level, the CV axle and UCA angles are horrible. I learned this the hard way lol. I won't ever do more than a 2" level from now on
.
@@lloydhendricks5370 what if you replace the UCA ?
@@wreybinrios5098 Ya on my old truck with a 3" level kit I replaced the UCA but the CV angles are still horrible and caused me trouble. If you do any real off-roading you're likely to have them wear out really fast. Plus with the 3"' level the suspension travel is still almost maxed out when you hit even a small bump. Super uncomfortable. With my newest truck I've put a real 4" lift kit on it that keeps all the angles at stock. It's more money but way more comfortable and will last longer.
Why is it important to keep the shocks aligned with the strut tower?
O did not have to use the factory hat on my halo lift coilover
Anyone put these on a 2014? Since it has the same LCA? Or should I swap in a 2013 LCA and go with the 08-13 6112?
Have you ever seen an answer to this? I have a 14 as well. I'd like to know why the 2015 kit doesn't work on the 2014.
How is the ride? How do they compare to icon 2.5's? Or even Fox 2.0's?
Martin stay tuned we'll be releasing our full on & off-road review for these shocks this week!
LOL why is there a 15+ kit and a 09 kit, are they not both the same suspension on both? Also, why do the kits only fit 4wd, are they not both the same 2wd 4wd suspensions. I can only imagine they are valved differently and have no physical differences?
Ford made some changes between 14-15 that creates the reason for the two kits, 2WD & 4WD kits are different also but we want to be able to offer product to everyone.
Can I use these and a puck lift???
While you technically, can we don't recommend it.
Anyone know the top hat part number at Ford?
Will the 15-18 work on a 19?
great job
Thanks Anita, stay tuned for what's next!
I don't know how anyone is doing this at home...2 different spring compressors and there's no way in hell I can compress the spring enough to get the strut to even slightly poke out the top hat...
You really need an impact gun to tighten the clamp bolts
A lot of places offer a package that has a new top hat already installed, seems like a very smart option.
@@73NF14Ret I’ve only seen Suspension Surplus offering it. Who else does? I don’t have a wall mount compressor. Certainly not going to buy one to use once. The older compressors look sketchy to use. I like my truck but not enough to get killed for it lol
I bought this set to use for my 2015 F-150
“Shankly Spring Compressor Tool (2 Pieces) - Heavy Duty Build, Ultra Rugged Coil Spring Compressor, Strong and Durable Spring Compressor with Safety Guard and Carrying Case” on Amazon, and one of the standard $25 sets.
These will do the job by themselves, but I used them with the $25 set and had 4 compression point set to be safe.
Of course you could probably have a shop swap the tops out for you for about he same price.
No torque specs? 😂
Anybody else se that balljoint buster droop
Editing fail....notice how the knuckle was already loose before he hammered it at 1:21
Conveniently don’t show how you get any leverage to remove old spring and shock. This video is useless