BenQ HT2150ST DLP Projector Cleaning/Case Repair
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 5 ก.พ. 2025
- This projector came from an online seller with the problem of jittering picture and then shutting down. They were ready to upgrade to a newer model anyway. Unfortunately it was slightly damaged in shipping. Nothing functional was damaged but the corner was broken in a few places.
The main issue was of course dust buildup on the color wheel sensor. I glued as much of the corner back as I could.
In retrospect I want to look into other types of adhesives. CA glue is my go to for most things with that sort of plastic. Mainly I want to find a very thin UV set adhesive or similar type where you can clamp the parts and then cure them one you like the position.
If you happen to need a lamp assembly for your projector, use YT50 for 5% off. www.purelandsu...
edit: this sold before the video was edited. I hope the new owner enjoys it. It's a nice projector.
Frank, this is a fantastic video. Thank you! The color wheel on my HT2150ST shattered and with your video I was able to take the whole projector apart and replace it. Thank you again!
You are welcome!
They operate as UPS here in UK. They are by far the worst courier company. They have plenty of 1 star reviews online. They have broken at least 5 of my items. They break them because they want to force people to take insurance on the item. They can tell from the shipping label if the sender has taken insurance on the item. Nice and neat job. Another happy customer.
Great job on this one as always Frank! I enjoyed watching it. It's a shame it was damaged but you did a good job with the repair considering how frustrating it can be to try and glue that plastic back together. One thing I've been wondering about is why more manufacturers don't put air filters on the intake of these projectors. I know NEC and Epson are pretty good about filters but most of these projectors I've seen don't have filters. I know it won't eliminate the dust but it will help a lot with reducing it. Unless then people won't take them apart and clean them since they cleaned the filter so they think it's clean inside.
Also I agree with you about the fans, I wish the thermal sensor/cutout they use would be more sensitive and cut out or activate the "temp" light and warning to shut down the lamp far sooner, once it's above normal operating temperature to prevent plastic warping and excessive heat stress. Basically as soon as that blower fan can't move proper air anymore since it's no good to run a lamp if it can't be cooled right. Take care Frank!
I've seen it both ways. Filters used to be a lot more common, but even then people wouldn't clean them. No filter and allowing dust to "pass" through can work better than blocking it(to a degree). Most modern houses are more dust free than houses more than 30 years old (most of the time). Central air tends to lower dust. This projector was 4 years old and 8000+ hours before this happened. In the grand scheme that isnt too bad. Today, some manufacturers do add filters depending on the market. The middle east, africa tend to have filters shipped in the projectors, where as less dusty markets tend to not be shipped with them. I'm sure the main reason is lowering manufacturing cost.
Yeah, having the thermal sensors do the temperature work over the fan status leads would make way more sense. Someday I will have time to do some mods or experiments with that. I'm slowly cobbling an Arduino board to an old projector so I can make it do things and report info that they normally cannot. My first step is to interface with the ballast control so I can monitor and bypass the projectors control if I want. My goal it to be able to make the lamp come on when I say so rather than the projector, among other things. I think projectors have been out long enough that we need to see some "hacked" versions. I'd like to look at trying out those nocturn fans too. Maybe making a status wire mod board so you can use non pwm status fans in a PWM status projector.
@@FixitFrank That's very true I think having the filter in a way caused more issues because people would never clean them or forget to clean them which caused more restriction than simply not having a filter. I agree that if your house is a clean environment like most modern houses are you can expect several years of operation before this much dust accumulates. I wish that was the case for my house even though we have central air and a fairly new system at that. It was built in the early 50's and it sure can get dusty sometimes, but I think the general amount of dust has gone down since we got the newer air system. It is what it is though and I do a good job keeping things like my fan and any electronics clean and free of dust because I am maintenance oriented. But I do a good job cleaning my room and the house in general so everything stays pretty clean which is nice. That's a good point I can agree that the bottom line is cost but since our market is relatively free of rapid dust accumulation it makes sense that a filter wouldn't be needed with most projectors compared to areas like Africa like you mentioned.
I agree, especially since heat is the number one enemy of electronics and especially with projectors having sensitive things like optics and DMD chips that need to have the heat kept away. That's actually really cool. I need to get myself an Arduino since I've never actually had one and there's a lot I can do with one, that or a Pi maybe. I think doing some mod experiments will be very useful and will help to understand even better how these things work. A "hacked" version of a projector certainly would be interesting! I think that would be useful to try that with the fans. I like how you are like me in that you like to see how these things work and come up with ideas to experiment with different solutions and whatnot to mod these things and help people keep this stuff going and not become waste.
Jeez man USPS reminds me of Greek Post Office Services. These people are just not pros and lets leave it there. If you plan to keep the projector ( I would it is an awesome model) just mod the front broken plastic and try to 3D print the pieces the way you like it. Or just remove them completely and cover the hole with a fan grill and/or some kind of mesh, result should look amazing. I always mod broken plastic, never a fan of using super glue the result looks like a train wreck most of the times. Nice to see another repair Frank!
Such a helpful video, Frank! Thank you.
I just nabbed one of these and am finding it quite noisy when reviews don't really talk about this being an issue - would dusty fans make a big difference to background noise? The noise is always there until the fans finally shut off after powering down, which makes me think it is fan related rather than a noisy colorwheel which others also reported.
The projector was quite dusty when I bought it so I took the casing off and did a simple clean, but didn't go all the way down in terms of the motherboard and specifically the intake fan.
I'm sure there'll be some accumulated dust in there - I'm hesitant to fully take it apart (though this video gives a lot more confidence!) but I think the noise is significant enough to distract during quiet parts of movies, so if this seems like a feasible explanation I guess I'll have to dive on in!
@FixitFrank thanks so much for this video. I'm having a really tough time putting the lens cover back on. I noticed you also had an issue and did something to repair it (off screen). Do you mind sharing which prong you fixed and what you did to fix it?
Just replied to your email :)
It's awesome for you to share your knowledge on projectors. Have a HT2150ST that has a blinking red power light. Does not respond to anything. Lamp and temp lights are off. Not finding any diagnostic for this light combination. Any suggestions appreciated.
That's a tough one. Sort of sounds like a bad main board but it might be a bunch of other things. Bad caps in the power supply, shipping damage causing bad connections.
I'd say make sure everything is connected properly in side. Reseat the main board for instance.
It's too vague of a problem unfortunately to give you anything specific. If I had it, I'd be checking all those things and narrow down the cause.
Also the BenQ w1070 service manual is pretty available and is similar enough to the 2150 that you can at least have some reference. The power section in the main board (pmd1000 chip) is worth investigating.
Thanks Frank. I'll dig in and give an update.
Good job as usual, you could try Cyanoacrylate glue and accelerators. You get a almost instant bond.
Thanks for the idea!
Nice...a simple service and clean and it's good as new. Have you got any UST projector fixes/repairs coming up? Cheers Frank.
Hi Karl! I don't have any UST units in here at the moment but I am actually waiting for some from a local school district. Not sure exactly when they ware coming in but it will be sooner than later.
Amazing, everything so detailed. My Benq ht2150st project kept shutting down, flashing the overheat light. Cleaned the blower fan, all put it back, now while trying to turn on, 1. All fans starts moving at full speed, 2. No noise of power on. 3. No picture or light from lamp (tired 3 different lamps) 4. After running 1 or 2 mins, automatically shuts down. I checked few times, seems all put back correctly. Any idea about what could be the reason?
Try turning it on, then quickly press Menu. Then immediately press Enter and Source at the same time. you should see a few boxes appear. Using the arrow keys navigate to box #4 and then press down arrow. you should see a list of fan errors broken down by number. It might be a different fan that is issue. Also some fans will spin but not report they are spinning. th-cam.com/video/kCOSQ8dVZvc/w-d-xo.html This video is not the same model as your projector, but the troubleshooting steps are the same. I show how to check the fan stall leads on the fans.
Subscribed thanks! Can you help point me in the right direction? I followed this great video and cleaned out my projector because i was receiving a red power and green temp light error. The manual says it is a "Fan 3 error". Is the Fan 3 the blower fan right behind the lens housing heatsink? Is replacing the fan the only course of action at this point? Really appreciate any help. Thanks in advance.
Correct! It's the turbine type fan by the heatsink. If you had a lamp assembly explode in the past at all, you may have some glass that got thrown into the blower fan. The fans are high speed but very low torque. A small piece of glass can stop it completely. I would use a cotton swab or pinky finger and see if you can reach in and manually rotate the fan. If it feels stuck and then moves freely, dump out the glass that was stuck. I have a few videos like that for other BenQ models. If the fan feels free when you rotate it manually then it is new fan time.
What tends to happen is the dust builds up, the lamp assembly will burst from being too hot and the quartz glass then goes into the blower fan and jams it. If you have not had a lamp assembly burst, I would still see if the fan can rotate because a bug/spider/dust can cause the same problem.
@@FixitFrank Thank you for the help! I had a lamp explode about two years ago, but the fan in question is spinning freely. It does spin freely for 2 seconds then stops really quick/abrupt. I'll order a new one. Do you know of a supplier in the US? I'm only finding it on ebay or newegg and its coming from China. The model is Sunon MF60251v3-c010-g99.
It is going to be hard to find a new one in the USA. I buy most of mine via Time electronics (gydz@timeprojectorlamp.com) They ship dhl and take paypal.
If you are OK with a used but good fan, I might have one. Let me know and I will look in my box o fans.
I have a question for you. Thanks for the teardown video btw. I've been wanting to clean my HT2050A for a while now and just couldn't open it without fear of breaking the casing lol it's super tightly fitted.
Anyways, my question is this: My projector is starting to show some ghosting circles that are noticeable on pitch black scenes such as in space or dark transitions from one scene to another.
I'm wondering if it is a DLP chip giving out or dust particles inside the lens. The ghost circles I'm talking about are perfect cirlces and are kinda big and barely visible. I see them though during black scenes so it bothers me.
Do you have any idea what it could be?? I look inside the glass but I don't see anything with my bare eyes
Hi It's probably just dust. I have seen that a few times on these. I did a video on the 2050 where I think I show the dust so you could compare. Bad pixels tend to be smaller and not ghost circles. More like twinkling stars.
@@FixitFrank Ohhhh okok 😭 thanks. That's lots of weight off my shoulders. I will look at that video.
Wish me luck opening up my project for clean up. I'm super nervous!!!
Just take your time. It's not a race. Once you get it started it will come apart easier. That first unclip is the most difficult. Good luck to you!
Hi Frank, the lamp was dying in mine and I have a new one on the way. I decided to install an older one I had while I wait for the new one to arrive. Now I don't get any power. Absolutely no lights. I reinstalled the lamp that was in there previously and still no power. It was working perfectly fine except with a dim picture. Will the new lamp fix it or am I looking at a different issue?
Don't forget to put the lamp cover back on. You wont get any power without the cover.
@@FixitFrank Yeah, I took it off and put it back on several times to make sure. Does it sound like a dead board?
Assuming you are using superglue then you can use a spray on or brush on activator which causes the glue to set in seconds.
If the plastic is ABS and you don’t want the white residue and awkwardness of working with superglues then you can use UPVC pipe cement but use caution as it partially melts the plastic together.
I was thinking of trying a toluene based glue like model cement. Maybe I'll take some scrap housings and do an experiment? Would you find that interesting? UPVC cement is a good idea. I have some and used it often before I went all pex. Thanks for the suggestion!!
Model cements may work but they are mainly for polystyrene and may not suitable for a part which is under tension.
Superglue is fastest if used with an activator, but you always have to clean off some ‘bloom’ and they are awkward to work with (in my opinion), though some of the thicker mixtures are ok (i.e., Loctite 454 otherwise known as powerflex gel).
UHU UPVC pipe cement seems to last the longest but takes a fair while to set.
Again, assuming the plastic on the projector is ABS (I am no projector expert).
Totally understand. I'm relatively familiar with plastics to a degree. I dabble in 3d printing and do my best to check the recycling marks to see if it's poly or abs or what.
I do like the thicker CA glue. I really appreciate the suggestions. I'm not an expert on projectors yet either but I'm learning as I go so any and all input is thoroughly appreciated!
Are Color wheels from other benq's compatible with the HT2150?
I don't know honestly. Its always possible but the index mark may not be in the same place. The color wheels for the 2150 are pretty inexpensive so I would really go with one of those if you can. Otherwise I would look for what other models use the same lamp part #. They are more likely to use the same color wheel and other parts.
why didnt you clean the clear plastic cover piece?
Good question! I'm surprised no one asked that before. The bottom of the plastic is sticky. Trying to clean it tends to make more of a mess then it solves. Less is more in this case.
Frank, This tutorial was excellent and a life saver, Thank you. I do however have a problem with my 2150st that im not sure about. Maybe you could help? Just to try and eliminate a very long story of how I got here, I need to break this down to the color wheel itself. The wheel has separated from the bearing, almost like it's a cap. Inside the bearing cap that's mounted to the wheel I found old glue that once held it together. That glue was preventing me from being able to put the bearing back together. I've now carefully removed the old glue and im ready to re glue it together again. Here's the question... does the black area on the bearing need to be lined up with any particular color panel on the wheel? I hope you understand what I'm getting at here.... wish I could send you a picture. But what im asking is, is this thing set up with a certain timing in relation to color panel to the black section on the bearing? Thanks in advance.
Id replace the color wheel. There is a lot of rotational force and unless the wheel is re-balanced, its going to wobble and likely fail. Color wheels are cheap for these and worth replacing. That said, to answer your question, the index mark is critical for the timing of the wheel. Usually its at one of the blue segments but you can adjust it in the service menu(Index mark). Keep in mind this is rotating at 7200rpm. Any lack of balance is going to be amplified and get worse. I have a contact for these in China. gydz at timeprojectorlamp dot com. They ship DHL and take paypal so you are protected. Id really recommend replacing it but if you can't then line up the mark with a blue segment and then you can get into the service menu to dial in the colors.
@@FixitFrank
First off, thank you for the reply. I did consider what you said about it needing to be in perfect balance, however I'd still like to try and salvage it, my kids have friends coming this weekend and I'd like to have the theater back up and running. In the interim, I would like to purchase a new one, do you have the specific part number? I had no luck finding one myself on the internet yesterday. Also, to get into that menu for the timing, I press menu then ok and source at the same time? Is that correct? Again, thank you for the help... I turned a simple lamp changing into a nightmare..... i blew compressed air into the projector to clean out dust... didn't know any better, the lenses were full of dust, that's when I found your video. It's been a huge help.
@@FixitFrank, I got the wheel back together and it seems to run fine. However, my colors are all messed up, red is blue, blue is green, green is red and so on. I went into the service menu and found what's labeled cw delay, I've adjusted it a hundred times from 0 to max of 720, I've also tried adjusting the individual colors. I'd say I've spent 5 hrs messing with this... what a nightmare... I tried that web site address you posted but couldn't find anything. I contacted BenQ, they gave me a part number and a price of $85 but provided no link and then went dark... no reply.. so im wondering if you could help me find a new wheel. That's assuming that a new one would come calibrated and solve my problem? I'd appreciate any help you could provide. I hate to throw away a otherwise good projector.
Thank you
James
You have to email that address. gydz@timeprojectorlamp.com They don't run a website. They are my go to for parts. I suspect you have a bad hub bearing. They use oil-bronze and once it gets too hot, its done. I agree that you want to fix that projector. Its still quite good.
@@FixitFrank
I already contacted BenQ directly. I should have the new wheel and assembly today or tomorrow. I'll keep that email address for future needs though, I'm sure they'd be cheaper. The whole assembly cost me $100. Not the worst but pricey considering what I see other brands sell for online. I just hope this solves my issue.
Hi Frank, its me. Hitachi PJ-TX10 Projector, i capture a desktop picture onto projector (menu clicking: input> 3D-YCS> still image), now i have been failed to remove this picture which is showing through picture. it is very itching look. please let me know the solution, please.
I'm going to have to read up on the manual. I have never seen this issue but I do have some ideas. I'll reply to your email and here. Thank you
@@FixitFrank i have reset setting of same section, after a day, my projector was ok. thanks for your cooperation.
Love your work, I've been watching your videos all night! Do you have a video of fixing a scuffed lens or lens replacement?
For this model? I do not, but I could make one for replacing the lens. Fixing a scuffed lens isn't something I think I can do. They tend to just be bad once they get scratched too much. I'll see about showing how to replace the lens. Its usually just 3-4 screws holding it to the front of the optical module.
Hi Frank mi lamp is not coming on. I went back and did everyting 5 times. I just noticed if try and turn it on without the lamp I dont see the color wheel spinning. Any rocomendations ?
If it is not spinning there are only a few possible causes. The wheel itself is bad or not quite seated and is jammed against something. The cable is upside down in the connector, or there is a mainboard problem. In my experience it is usually the cable being upside down or the wheel itself is bad. See if you can push it with your finger. It should spin very easily. If not investigate what is causing that.
If it all spun before you did any work, as much as I hate to sound like a broken record, there has to be something that was missed or wasn't put back in place. I know I have done that countless times but I also know how frustrating it can be. Maybe take a step back, forget about it for a day or two and re-evaluate with a refreshed set of eyes.
@@FixitFrank Thanks for the time to respond. I have taken thr wheell out three times. It spiins fine and the sensor is clean and the connectors are not loose. I have taken this thing apart so many times I can do it with my eyes closed lol. Checked all the connections many times. Question? The lamp does not come on if the wheel is not spinning? Is that how they work? If i dont fix it. i will send it to you in Oct when I get back to the states. Im in Colombia till oct visiting my son. Thanks again
Sure thing. Give a shout when you get back to town and we can figure it out. No worries.
Any idea if this color wheel (www.amazon.com/dp/B07ZX7SZW9) should work with the HT2150ST? Also does the cheap lamp housings from amazon prematurely burn out the color wheels? Thanks and great video!
I am not sure if that would work. I cant recall if the color order was reversed or not. Double check the color order on yours and compare. size wise and motor type, it should be fine. It will mount correctly.
Amazon lamps are bad news. I have seen them destroy projectors with conductive cement and incorrect UV/IR filters. Just a mess. What I usually see in regard to color wheels, is the lack of IR blocking by the incorrect lens, lets too much IR radiation into the projector. That tends to confuse the color wheel sensor and make the machine flicker colors and shut down. If yours did that, I would try a better quality lamp assembly. The cost seems nice but in reality you end up replacing those cheap lamps so many times, it adds up to more than a slightly more expensive lamp. A decent lamp is roughly $140 and will work as well as the original.
@@FixitFrank FYI the color wheel worked even though there were some visual differences. Color order matched up but the color output was off by a bit so I had to go into the service menu and set CW to 355. The previous CW literally broke apart within the projector, 1/3 of it was cracked off. I'd assume heat related. Thanks again for your helpful video!
Super video . Thank you.
Welcome 👍
I just did this but when I go test it the lap turns on for a few seconds then off and the lamp light comes on. I even tried another new lamp
so I got he lamp to stay on. dont know how. but now all I see is a cunch a black and white specs. it was not like that before
Sounds like a bad connection to the DMD. I'd go back over what you did and make sure everything is back to how it was. Its pretty easy to forget wires and other things.
@@FixitFrank so I wnt back and did everything again. now the lamp wont come one again lol
@@FixitFrank whats the dmd?
@@FixitFrank Is it possible I tuined the DMD by not groundin myself ?
would you happen to know the color wheel part number? or where to buy one please? I already closed my projector and put it away and forgot to get the part number. thanks
I don't have the part # unfortunately. The 2150 in the video is long gone. Are you sure the wheel is bad? This is still a fairly new projector to have a bad color wheel. Not impossible of course but seems early to me.
Did you happen to replace the lamp assembly and then have this issue start?
@@FixitFrank The wheel spins freely. but when I turn on the projector without the lamp on I dont see the wheel spin. If I attatch the lamp and try and turn it on the lamp does not come on. but the lamp light does not come on either
Oh thats right. I remember now. did you have the mainboard out? If so, double check the low voltage pins and their alignment with the socket on the mainboard.
@@FixitFrank 1st thing i did. I have seen all of your videos lol. I have checked every connection 30x. I am ou of ideas. i even took the color wheel sensor to be soldered again
Ratty! 🐀
hello Frank, I have the same projector but when I on it, the lamp show in red light and emit a little wishtle, but never appear image and I see that the lens never on. I change the lamp and I see the the problem is the same. Could you recommended how to proceed with this? ... Thanks so much.
Hi! It kind of sounds like a color wheel possibly. If you can share a video of what you are experiencing that would make it a lot easier.