Two comments (not related to this video…but please bear with me…): 1. The day I noticed that my injector pump is leaking between the pump body and the distributor head (and I do my under bonnet checks pretty much weekly) was the same day you posted a video about how to replace the offending o-ring (pretty sure you haven’t covered that before). I always reckoned you as a very clever bloke, but prescience takes that to a whole new level! 2. Today I received the timing kit. To my delight, the 300Tdi flywheel pin (the one I need) is already spring loaded. Someone in China is watching your videos. Be afraid!
About time ! Mine had no spring loading, so you had to fanny about turning the crank and trying to fit the timing pin! Maybe mine was a Friday afternoon one and the spring was missing? I think I used a Biro spring in the end...
I wonder if anybody's selling replacement diff's on an exchange basis? Obviously, it'd need some specialised tooling, and matching shims, so it's probably not the sort of thing you'd be able to do for a one-off, but you'd think it'd be worth it for somebody like Ashcrofts to set themselves up to do it.
Sweet,my ATB l put in a few years ago,l couldn't turn when compared to the old one. The ATB it's not going to be a problem if l don't lock it in. It wasn't a bad price compared to buying the old type.😊
What a difference between a goodun and a badun. My high/Low and diff lock linkage was seized through lack of use when I got the vehicle, It's freed off now but the little linkage piece broke and I made a new one out of 6mm round bar.
They are difficult as they are heavy, and the weight is not distributed evenly. It is heavier on the right-hand side I have a transmission jack and adaptor specifically for the LT230 which makes life easy, but you could knock something up with wood to fit on a trolley jack and support the weight. Getting them off is easy - it is getting them back on that is the difficult bit as you have to get the spline in without damaging the seal
On a different note. The plastic clip for the clutch fork. How do you attach that? Impossible….. been running without it for a while, but would like to see if there is an easy solution.
My LT95A transfer is making bronze sheen at each oil change. Changing oil every 2500 km at the moment, no leaks. Seems like too much deflection at rear output shaft also. But no silver sheen or chunks in the oil, which is very clean apart from the bronze sheen. I’m fairly certain centre diff thrust washers are the source, question is, will they rapidly wear now that they have started to….?
@@BritannicaRestorations I went down some sandy tracks this afternoon…engaged the CDL and drove until I got to the gravel, switched off the CDL, but the light stayed on for a good 3 or 4 minutes after switching off…I was about to stop and try check what was up when the light went off… I’m guessing it’s good to exercise the unit from time to time, but hoping that the diaphragm hasn’t perished….they are made from a special rubber know as unobtainium.
Ponieważ Land Rovery mają stały napęd 4x4, w skrzyni rozdzielczej musi być coś, co umożliwi niewielką zmianę prędkości osi podczas pokonywania zakrętów itp.
Hello! Great video! I'm your fellow Canadian from Alberta who purchased a 2001 Defender 110. What is the best source to get parts for this machines? Thank you in advance for the answer.
I used to supply Britpart stuff as I had an account, but their shipping was way too expensive, so now I get all my parts from LR Direct as they pack as tight as possible without damage, and recognize that we pay for volume and weight for overseas shipping. They ship with DHL - they have reasonable costs and are quite quick - If I order Monday I will have parts by Wednesday / Thursday
@@BritannicaRestorations Thank you for the reply. I also use LR direct. I found them very organised and the prices are very reasonable. I rebuilt my r380 transmission and transfer case using your videos as a guide. Keep up the good work 👍.
Just wait till you get to the later Puma LT230 units where they have a cheaper pressed together Diff unit that seems to develop slop within 5 seconds!!
I did a leaking LT23O on a Puma last year and didn't notice any difference in the diff. But for £350 get an ATB from Ashcroft and all the problems go away (until the next one…) LoL!
Ill have to find a picture of one, i think it was the usual end of run we are out of parts LR thing same as the 10AS immobiliser units.@@BritannicaRestorations
Indeed they dont seem to have bothered updating the parts catalogues etc - this is one of the late on end of production changes that got thrown at defenders End-of-life, just like the lucas 10AS immobilisers - they ran out of them and had a cheap chinese copy made from 2013 onwards that breaks and corrupts its own chips constantly if exposed to high or low voltages. Its a big enough problem that a guy in Bournemouth uk re-manufactures new units using better quality parts. @@BritannicaRestorations
I assume there was wear on both halves of the differential casing Also; is the scored wear on the casing an issue, or was there far worse wear in the gears/ bearings/ shims, and that is the primary issue. Just wondering, because I know I can source a replacement gear kit, (gears/shims/bearings) and I know I can source a complete differential assembly - but not individual cases. And one of these things is a helluva lot more spendy than the other! I could machine/polish any scoring out the casings for example (possibly that might need taken up by shimming) Tl;dr If the casings are showing wear, is it pointless to just fit a replacement gear kit? Asking for the perma-skint 😁👍 *edit for spelling
If you mean by the 'casings', the actual diff unit, they are machined and balanced together. The gears seem to be fine as they are hardened, and they eat into the softer housing Personally I would not waste my time on trying to repair them - there are plenty of used as they were in Defenders, discoveries and RR's These diffs wear internally as shown, and where the rear bearing fits - if the bearing is sloppy - it is scrap
Sounds like people are changing the oil after 150'000 miles because they are having problems with the box. Surprisingly it doesn't solve the problems so they send it to you!
class...is in session. pay close attention and you'll learn something
Merit point for you!
Very common to find frozen or seized hi and low diff lock levers in landys, due to owners never using them😮
I’m pleased that you took the time to follow up your last lt230 video 👍🏼
Really interesting, thanks.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Two comments (not related to this video…but please bear with me…):
1. The day I noticed that my injector pump is leaking between the pump body and the distributor head (and I do my under bonnet checks pretty much weekly) was the same day you posted a video about how to replace the offending o-ring (pretty sure you haven’t covered that before). I always reckoned you as a very clever bloke, but prescience takes that to a whole new level!
2. Today I received the timing kit. To my delight, the 300Tdi flywheel pin (the one I need) is already spring loaded. Someone in China is watching your videos. Be afraid!
About time ! Mine had no spring loading, so you had to fanny about turning the crank and trying to fit the timing pin!
Maybe mine was a Friday afternoon one and the spring was missing?
I think I used a Biro spring in the end...
@@BritannicaRestorations Haha…exactly what I had in mind!
I try to remember to run low range once a month just for a few hundred yards, (have you seen the price of diesel) just to keep everything working OK.
I wonder if anybody's selling replacement diff's on an exchange basis?
Obviously, it'd need some specialised tooling, and matching shims, so it's probably not the sort of thing you'd be able to do for a one-off, but you'd think it'd be worth it for somebody like Ashcrofts to set themselves up to do it.
An ATB is £345. Probably cost more to re machine an item that could go wrong at any time!
Sweet,my ATB l put in a few years ago,l couldn't turn when compared to the old one. The ATB it's not going to be a problem if l don't lock it in. It wasn't a bad price compared to buying the old type.😊
ATB's are the way to go!!
£450 for after market,
£700 for a LR one,
£345 for an Ashcroft one
No-brainer in my opinion!
Is this an LSD like centre diff?
I see the diff between the two!
What a difference between a goodun and a badun. My high/Low and diff lock linkage was seized through lack of use when I got the vehicle, It's freed off now but the little linkage piece broke and I made a new one out of 6mm round bar.
Have you done a video of physical removing and refitting an LT230? I'd like to fit Ashcroft but worry about the difficulty in a home garage.
They are difficult as they are heavy, and the weight is not distributed evenly. It is heavier on the right-hand side
I have a transmission jack and adaptor specifically for the LT230 which makes life easy, but you could knock something up with wood to fit on a trolley jack and support the weight.
Getting them off is easy - it is getting them back on that is the difficult bit as you have to get the spline in without damaging the seal
@@BritannicaRestorations Thanks for the info. It would be best then if I pay a Landy garage. As a newbie, I'd probably mess it up.
Maybe a wise move - they are 60/70 kg = or 11 stone in old money!
On a different note.
The plastic clip for the clutch fork. How do you attach that? Impossible….. been running without it for a while, but would like to see if there is an easy solution.
The one that holds the bearing or the push rod?
@@BritannicaRestorations push rod
I use low range for reversing my trailers, saves riding the clutch and affords more control at low speed
Correct
My LT95A transfer is making bronze sheen at each oil change. Changing oil every 2500 km at the moment, no leaks. Seems like too much deflection at rear output shaft also. But no silver sheen or chunks in the oil, which is very clean apart from the bronze sheen. I’m fairly certain centre diff thrust washers are the source, question is, will they rapidly wear now that they have started to….?
Could be
@@BritannicaRestorations I went down some sandy tracks this afternoon…engaged the CDL and drove until I got to the gravel, switched off the CDL, but the light stayed on for a good 3 or 4 minutes after switching off…I was about to stop and try check what was up when the light went off… I’m guessing it’s good to exercise the unit from time to time, but hoping that the diaphragm hasn’t perished….they are made from a special rubber know as unobtainium.
Sometimes you have to dip the clutch in order for them to disengage - they are on a parallel spline with a sliding collar - sometimes it gets stuck!
Will a 6 ton shop press be enough to push out the bearings and gears?
Yes, I would think so
Disco II have no diff lock, but traction control ? will that save your diff?
Early ones did have dif lock, mid-years had, but no linkage, then they didn't have anything, last years did
Can you get an ATB for the Borg Warner?
No
Mike mechanizm roznicowy z jedną ośką nierozkręcany to do czego?
Ponieważ Land Rovery mają stały napęd 4x4, w skrzyni rozdzielczej musi być coś, co umożliwi niewielką zmianę prędkości osi podczas pokonywania zakrętów itp.
Hello! Great video! I'm your fellow Canadian from Alberta who purchased a 2001 Defender 110. What is the best source to get parts for this machines? Thank you in advance for the answer.
I used to supply Britpart stuff as I had an account, but their shipping was way too expensive, so now I get all my parts from LR Direct as they pack as tight as possible without damage, and recognize that we pay for volume and weight for overseas shipping.
They ship with DHL - they have reasonable costs and are quite quick - If I order Monday I will have parts by Wednesday / Thursday
@@BritannicaRestorations Thank you for the reply. I also use LR direct. I found them very organised and the prices are very reasonable. I rebuilt my r380 transmission and transfer case using your videos as a guide. Keep up the good work 👍.
Just wait till you get to the later Puma LT230 units where they have a cheaper pressed together Diff unit that seems to develop slop within 5 seconds!!
I did a leaking LT23O on a Puma last year and didn't notice any difference in the diff.
But for £350 get an ATB from Ashcroft and all the problems go away (until the next one…)
LoL!
Ill have to find a picture of one, i think it was the usual end of run we are out of parts LR
thing same as the 10AS immobiliser units.@@BritannicaRestorations
www.defender2.net/gallery/albums/userpics/10785/normal_IMG_20190623_145142.jpg
Interesting! Can't find any reference to them!
Indeed they dont seem to have bothered updating the parts catalogues etc - this is one of the late on end of production changes that got thrown at defenders End-of-life, just like the lucas 10AS immobilisers - they ran out of them and had a cheap chinese copy made from 2013 onwards that breaks and corrupts its own chips constantly if exposed to high or low voltages. Its a big enough problem that a guy in Bournemouth uk re-manufactures new units using better quality parts.
@@BritannicaRestorations
Mike does oil type make a difference to diff wear as there is many a debate online wether to use gear oil or atf in an lt230
I assume there was wear on both halves of the differential casing
Also; is the scored wear on the casing an issue, or was there far worse wear in the gears/ bearings/ shims, and that is the primary issue.
Just wondering, because I know I can source a replacement gear kit, (gears/shims/bearings) and I know I can source a complete differential assembly - but not individual cases.
And one of these things is a helluva lot more spendy than the other!
I could machine/polish any scoring out the casings for example (possibly that might need taken up by shimming)
Tl;dr
If the casings are showing wear, is it pointless to just fit a replacement gear kit?
Asking for the perma-skint 😁👍
*edit for spelling
If you mean by the 'casings', the actual diff unit, they are machined and balanced together.
The gears seem to be fine as they are hardened, and they eat into the softer housing
Personally I would not waste my time on trying to repair them - there are plenty of used as they were in Defenders, discoveries and RR's
These diffs wear internally as shown, and where the rear bearing fits - if the bearing is sloppy - it is scrap
@@BritannicaRestorations Yup, dunno what I'd call them , diff housing, assembly, couplings?
Anyway, understood, cheers 👍
Oh, for xray eyes.
Sounds like people are changing the oil after 150'000 miles because they are having problems with the box. Surprisingly it doesn't solve the problems so they send it to you!
And the nuber of times lads have said to me (there are other types of human being) what ya doin...ya dont yer diff lock fot this...
Oh yes you do!