That’s exactly what I eventually determined. The previous owner used a bolt that was too long, and to avoid the bolt from hitting the inner primary case (perhaps), they installed the inner shift arm only halfway on the splined shaft. That caused it to eventually fall off.
Watching this again just brought up all the bizarre frustrations I had with this bike. This was easy, once I gave a closer look at all of the parts involved.
I love that sidecar setup... I once looked into it so I could take my dog for rides. The problem on the new HDs is the drop sensor. When turning these bikes like a trike, the ECM gets confused and tells the bike to shut off. I asked HD about this and got a stupid look. I stopped looking after that. Enjoy :-)
Man, do yourself a HUGE FAVOR and get you a bottle of 15 year old Redbreast single pot Irish Whiskey. A little pricey, but oh Brother is it AWESOME!!!! The 12 year old is great too. I haven't ran across anyone that hasn't thanked me for recommending it. For serious whiskey connoisseurs only though. I had a similiar problem on my 05 Electra Glide and the shaft coming off the transmission seemed loose as well. I took it all apart, everything was really tight, but when I cleaned everything up, removed all the red lock-tight and put it all back together with proper torque, the shifter was no longer lose, and everything has worked flawlessly since. Still to this day have no idea why it was so lose and hard to change, especially into neutral. Maybe you'll get lucky also. It was if they didn't have the shift linkage properly aligned and the bolt was not set into the slot properly. Don't know, but it works great now! Good luck and get ya that bottle of Redbreast!
With a recommendation like that, I’ll have to give it a try. Tell me more… anything comparable? I’ve come across it a few times in the stores, picked it up and usually set it back on the shelf due to the cost, about $115 here in PA. I believe it was Jeremy Siers that was giving it high marks as well. I just have to plan it accordingly in my total purchase. I’m definitely a drinker, not a collector, and currently have about 100 different whiskies, 99% opened a being drank regularly. 👍🏼 I’m always willing to try something new. Thanks for the advice!
@@whiskeymechanic I hear ya, I'm a drinker too! I honestly have not found anything that I prefer more that the Redbreast. I don't know if it's because it's not a blended whiskey or what, but a couple ice cubes in the glass and pour it over them...FANTASTIC!! It's just a clean, pure taste of whiskey heaven. Don't let your friends get a hold of it though! LOL!!
PS....change that stock shift linkage as well. It's another truly weak point and will leave you stranded! Total cost of the parts is about $125. Unless you go with a top of the line linkage.
The shifter spline, and the Allen head screw have stripped out. The screw at the rear shifter arm that clamps them together came loose. That causes the splines the deform or wear off. Then while you're riding the shifter shaft moves and causes the shift mechanism gets hung up. You've got to replace the rear shifter arm, bolt, and shifter spline or shift as uts called. The repair takes about 15 minutes.
In the next video (Part III), I discovered the problem. The previous owner used a pinch bolt that was too long, and was hitting the inner primary case. So their “fix” was to only push the shifter arm half way on the shaft. The pinch bolt was never in the groove.
What is the shifter spline also the rear shifter you're speaking about is that the one that's closest to the transmission I have a 2015 Harley-Davidson twin Cam the heel-toe shifter will shift when the bike is off it's locked up it will not disengage when I'm at a stoplight the bike wants to take off please help thank you
@islamtalib The shifter spline that likely the cause is the one towards the clutch/shift lever (forward) There's an Allen head bolt that holds the shift arm to the shift spline. DO NOT RIDE with the bike like it is now. Remove the forward shift arm. Remove the heel/toe shift levers. I like to mark the levers with a marker. So I can return them to the position they were in. Once you've removed the arm and levers. You'll have shaft exposed. Pull that shaft out and throw it away. Replace I with a new shift shaft. While you're at it, that shift arm is trash too. So throw that out and replace it too. The arm, shaft, and screw/screws are all available at any HD parts counter. The parts probably won't cost more than $25. Put a little anti-sieze on the shaft. Slide it back into place. Make sure you put the shift arm back in the right place. Reconnect your linkage, use blue locktite on your new Allen head pinch bolt. Tighten it down to the proper torque spec. Replace the heel/toe shift pegs. Check your clearance and make sure the bike shifts correctly at this time. Check the rear pinch bolt at this time. Make sure its tight as well. If that shift shaft is bad. That's going to take quite a bit of work to remove and replace. Always check the pinch bolts every few weeks. I'd recommend replacing the trash shift linkage too. Use one with HEIM BUSHINGS that will hive you far better shifting and less issues down the road.
a great bourbon will help a lot, and taste great. i had a similar problem, the shift lever on the transmission shaft had striped, and the pinch bolt for tighting it was striped and i could not get it out to remove the lever off the shaft. one problem caused another. hang in there,more burbon, jim beam black always helped me.
I had this happen to my 2007 Fatboy, it turned out that an acorn from a tree had dropped down behind the inner primary cover wedging itself between the rear shift lever and the inner primary cover. Removal of the acorn was the fix.
That’s interesting… 🤔 is it a touring model? The references I find for my touring models show the rod connecting on the outer side of both shifter arms.
The bolt inside the inner linkage is too long. It's catching the primary
That’s exactly what I eventually determined. The previous owner used a bolt that was too long, and to avoid the bolt from hitting the inner primary case (perhaps), they installed the inner shift arm only halfway on the splined shaft. That caused it to eventually fall off.
My first thoughts... shifter rod bushing damaged and shifter arm at transmission stripped out from damaged splines.
Watching this again just brought up all the bizarre frustrations I had with this bike. This was easy, once I gave a closer look at all of the parts involved.
I love that sidecar setup... I once looked into it so I could take my dog for rides. The problem on the new HDs is the drop sensor. When turning these bikes like a trike, the ECM gets confused and tells the bike to shut off. I asked HD about this and got a stupid look. I stopped looking after that. Enjoy :-)
Man, do yourself a HUGE FAVOR and get you a bottle of 15 year old Redbreast single pot Irish Whiskey. A little pricey, but oh Brother is it AWESOME!!!! The 12 year old is great too. I haven't ran across anyone that hasn't thanked me for recommending it. For serious whiskey connoisseurs only though. I had a similiar problem on my 05 Electra Glide and the shaft coming off the transmission seemed loose as well. I took it all apart, everything was really tight, but when I cleaned everything up, removed all the red lock-tight and put it all back together with proper torque, the shifter was no longer lose, and everything has worked flawlessly since. Still to this day have no idea why it was so lose and hard to change, especially into neutral. Maybe you'll get lucky also. It was if they didn't have the shift linkage properly aligned and the bolt was not set into the slot properly. Don't know, but it works great now! Good luck and get ya that bottle of Redbreast!
With a recommendation like that, I’ll have to give it a try. Tell me more… anything comparable? I’ve come across it a few times in the stores, picked it up and usually set it back on the shelf due to the cost, about $115 here in PA. I believe it was Jeremy Siers that was giving it high marks as well. I just have to plan it accordingly in my total purchase. I’m definitely a drinker, not a collector, and currently have about 100 different whiskies, 99% opened a being drank regularly. 👍🏼 I’m always willing to try something new. Thanks for the advice!
@@whiskeymechanic I hear ya, I'm a drinker too! I honestly have not found anything that I prefer more that the Redbreast. I don't know if it's because it's not a blended whiskey or what, but a couple ice cubes in the glass and pour it over them...FANTASTIC!! It's just a clean, pure taste of whiskey heaven. Don't let your friends get a hold of it though! LOL!!
This frustration is real. I feel for you bro.
PS....change that stock shift linkage as well. It's another truly weak point and will leave you stranded! Total cost of the parts is about $125. Unless you go with a top of the line linkage.
The shifter spline, and the Allen head screw have stripped out. The screw at the rear shifter arm that clamps them together came loose. That causes the splines the deform or wear off. Then while you're riding the shifter shaft moves and causes the shift mechanism gets hung up. You've got to replace the rear shifter arm, bolt, and shifter spline or shift as uts called. The repair takes about 15 minutes.
In the next video (Part III), I discovered the problem. The previous owner used a pinch bolt that was too long, and was hitting the inner primary case. So their “fix” was to only push the shifter arm half way on the shaft. The pinch bolt was never in the groove.
What is the shifter spline also the rear shifter you're speaking about is that the one that's closest to the transmission I have a 2015 Harley-Davidson twin Cam the heel-toe shifter will shift when the bike is off it's locked up it will not disengage when I'm at a stoplight the bike wants to take off please help thank you
@islamtalib The shifter spline that likely the cause is the one towards the clutch/shift lever (forward) There's an Allen head bolt that holds the shift arm to the shift spline. DO NOT RIDE with the bike like it is now. Remove the forward shift arm. Remove the heel/toe shift levers. I like to mark the levers with a marker. So I can return them to the position they were in. Once you've removed the arm and levers. You'll have shaft exposed. Pull that shaft out and throw it away. Replace I with a new shift shaft. While you're at it, that shift arm is trash too. So throw that out and replace it too. The arm, shaft, and screw/screws are all available at any HD parts counter. The parts probably won't cost more than $25. Put a little anti-sieze on the shaft. Slide it back into place. Make sure you put the shift arm back in the right place. Reconnect your linkage, use blue locktite on your new Allen head pinch bolt. Tighten it down to the proper torque spec. Replace the heel/toe shift pegs. Check your clearance and make sure the bike shifts correctly at this time. Check the rear pinch bolt at this time. Make sure its tight as well. If that shift shaft is bad. That's going to take quite a bit of work to remove and replace. Always check the pinch bolts every few weeks. I'd recommend replacing the trash shift linkage too. Use one with HEIM BUSHINGS that will hive you far better shifting and less issues down the road.
a great bourbon will help a lot, and taste great. i had a similar problem, the shift lever on the transmission shaft had striped, and the pinch bolt for tighting it was striped and i could not get it out to remove the lever off the shaft. one problem caused another. hang in there,more burbon, jim beam black always helped me.
I had this happen to my 2007 Fatboy, it turned out that an acorn from a tree had dropped down behind the inner primary cover wedging itself between the rear shift lever and the inner primary cover. Removal of the acorn was the fix.
Now that’s an original problem… nice find!
Lol
its really close to the fins on the jugs but thats the only way ive ever seen it.
I didn't buy a bike to work on.... sucks
on mine the shifter rod on the front goes from the inside out, outside in on the rear.
That’s interesting… 🤔 is it a touring model? The references I find for my touring models show the rod connecting on the outer side of both shifter arms.