Use acetone on your steel wool as it has oil in it to keep the steel wool from rusting. Mark Novak tell us that. This is the best way to do this. Good job.
Simple Green helps remove Cosmoline from Metal and Wood. Either straight, diluted, hot or cold. Beet juice removes rust as well. ( beet juice may affect the rust blue finish however)
I bought a super rusty Star Model BM for like 150 bucks and bought some Brownell's Rust Blue. Sand blasted the gun with a harbor freight sand blaster kit, then rubbed that rust blue on and allowed it to rust over, then boiled it...then carded it and repeated about 4 times. It looks amazing now. When you use that rust blue the entire gun rusts over heavily with that red iron oxide before you boil it. I left it hang over my bath tub full of hot water to progress the rusting. I'll never use cold blue again. The rust blue is much, much more durable and better looking. I used a brownell's carding brush because it worked better for me than steel wool getting into all the small areas. You did the right thing on this though, it didn't need refinishing and I generally am against refinishing milsurps. But this Star BM was beyond any point of collectibility because it looks like water got on the original cardboard box the gun was stored in and rusted the hell out of it. Maybe the warehouse it was stored in had a leaky roof or something.
For the wood I use Murphy's Oil Soap and hot water. With a soft brush and a little time it cleans up nice. It's surprising how pretty some of that wood is once it's cleaned up.
The steel wool and oil does pretty good but the great thing about boiling is that it converts the surface layer back to black rust. Thanks for checking the video out!!!
Great video! I've got a sportered receiver with some fine red rust that I've been concerned about fixing, and now I've got a solution. Thanks for sharing!
This is helpful i just bought my first rifle. It was so dirty as of right now it can fire so im happy until i can get the rest of the equipment to do a through cleaning
@@ReadinessReviews I paid for a good bore but how can they tell if I have to pull so much gunk out? I am not a good judge but after cleaning it is not bright like my SKS. I have a bore cam and will let you know.
I'm excited to get it to the range too. I'm still waiting on the last replacement parts to come and I'll be getting it back together. Thanks for watching my friend. take it easy brother!
Prep with detergent motor oil. Wash clean with simple green. Then naval jelly or steel wool and bore cleaner. Wash clean with simple green. Repeat as necessary. Some use turpentine.
I've had good results on rust with a tooth brush sized wire brush. For me No.4 steel wool takes more finish off. On scaley rust I use a very dull knife then the brush.
Back in November, 2021 I bought a Mosin-Nagant 91/30. I'm grateful it's in good overall, in fact I'd say excellent condition, but with it being my first milsurp AND wooden stocked firearm I was worried about the inside where the unfinished wood had been somewhat darkened over time from gun oil. Wanting to get some of it out and cleaned up a little better I tried a method others had suggested as a starting point, the tools: Mr Clean's magic eraser and hot water. I only tried a little bit in the worst dark spots and surprise it actually worked, the wood surface became a little brighter (it's a dark wood stock anyway) and didn't feel "tacky" anymore - I also made sure to carefully dry and rub down every surface before reassembly. I would appreciate your (and anyone else's) thoughts/suggestions on this subject. Sincerely, your friendly milsurp novice😊
@@ReadinessReviews Thanks for the reply. I plan to keep a close eye on it and see how it fares over time. Checked it a few days ago and thankfully still look/feels good. Thanks again from your milsurp novice🤗
One of my rifles a 1907-15 berthier rifle has som significant rust on the bolt and track? looks black but under certain light u can see the orange. Should i keep scouring the rust or just leave it? It was a lot worse.
@@ReadinessReviews no i actually didnt boil it. Ive only ever done that with small parts and this rust is mainly on the inside of the bolt track :( Maybe i should at least do the bolt body and consider sticking only the part of the action that has the rust in the water.
I took all the metals parts of the Gew and let them sit inside a stainless steal bowl for most of the day with soap and made all getting gunk off easier.
People sleep on how good of a job plain old soap and water does at cleaning up firearms. Thanks for checking the video out dude! Just got in a RTI M1 carbine and oh man am I happy about it.
I have started a maintenance program for my Enfields. Like the British military they are linseed oiled hopefully every month. And the moving parts oiled with modern military grade oil. They are a bad expensive habit.
I soak the barrel & stock hardware in no odor mineral spirits in a long think plastic tub. Go to Home Depot garden department & you get a window planter box liner which is a long skinny plastic tub which works great for soaking a barrel & will only cost you about $6.
I am curious, I was under the impression after boiling and carding you should put oil all over the parts since they have been degreased so the metal can soak it back in? Then wipe off excess
You can use a penny to remove the chunky rust before boiling. Especially if there is original bluing on the rifle. The penny is hard enough to remove the rust, but not hard enough to scratch through the finish. Not much bluing left on that firearm tho. Great video.
Nice tip!! I recall hearing that before. I guess you are supposed to use a pre-1982 penny so they are full copper. Thanks for the reminder and for watching!!!
Copper and oil will make it look like the active rust is gone but it doesn't actually remove it. The boiling is great because it converts the rust to black oxide. Once the boiling is done you can use almost anything to do the carding just noting more coarse than 0000 steel wool. I've used brass, copper, and nylon brushes along with the steel wool. I probably didn't do the best job of explaining. Thanks for checking the video out!!!
He has two videos . One is using his set up for rust blueing and the other is conservation and perseveration . I can’t recall which one mentions it , I think it is an alternative to using kerosene
I am looking to do something similar to my iffy Ishi No1 Mk3*. Its my understanding that most of the Lee's were oil blackened as a finish instead of blued. And since this rust conversion is literally rust bluing, but only on the active rust you need to convert, could that potentially cause some sort of issues with oil blackening? Have you noticed much of a difference in the converted rust to original finish on your Lee's? Should this process be done on rusty oil blackened firearms as well? Any sort of insight you have on this would be appreciated. I vaguely remember Mark Novak, over on "Anvil" talk about avoiding working on "old dominion guns" for this reason, but may be miss remembering.
So the big issue with the British Empire firearms is the use of a paint finish. Absolutely don't do this to a painted Lee. As far as the finish on mine goes there is no visible difference between the rust blue and whatever the original finish was. I'd do some more research about the oil blackening though because I'm not sure about that.
@@ReadinessReviews Yeah a few of my parts, notably the trigger guard, is painted. And I believe they phosphated them before painting them with Suncorite. Rest of it is definetly oil blacked/some other finish, and if yours was fine, the non painted parts of mine should be.
@@RyGuyTheAVGuy it should be fine. I clean it really well afterwards. Recently I did upgrade to a pot specifically for parts boiling but for a couple of years I just used the same one I cook with.
I got a Lee from RTI and the parts what weren't open to the elements have a black painted finish (might be suncorite). You said to not put it through the carb cleaner cause it'll damage the rifle. What can I do to clean it otherwise or even remove the suncorite?
I'm not sure. I've never had to deal with that particular finish. I would suggest trying a couple different solvents in small spots to see if they have a negative reaction. If you don't want to risk it just stick to warm water and a mild soap. I wouldn't boil it though.
@@jameswalker2588 You have to be really careful with a paint finish. I think it's probably better to stick with soap and water to be safe but there are tons of solvents that can be used for gun cleaning. Pretty much anything in the petroleum family works: diesel, gasoline, and kerosene. You can use denatured alcohol, mineral spirits, or acetone. Of course there are loads gun specific products. Good old Hoppe's No 9 has never let me down.
@@ReadinessReviews That painted finish on the Enfield's are just plain crap though. It's pretty much the same type of "BarbQue paint" you actually find on refurbished M91/30's that doesn't stay on for long.
It's a roll of the dice. I got lucky with mine but others haven't. If I didn't already have one I'd probably take the chance but I'm afraid to go for a second one. I doubt I'd get lucky twice.
Royal Tiger condition rates their guns using a fantasy system. “Excellent” is a beater anywhere else. Plenty of sources for British enfields out there. If you do buy from RT, get the worst rated, it’ll be half the price of their premium guns and essentially the same.
@@ReadinessReviews Thanks for replying! Unfortunately, my state doesn't allow shipping ammo. I looked up century arms' dealers but they appear to be out of stock. The rifle makes for a nice wall piece at least! I also have the bayonet and it seems like it could be a great club if anything...
@@ReadinessReviews I've tried asking at a few chain stores like big 5 but they said they can't. I'll probably have to find one that's locally owned. Thanks anyway though.
Hey bud gotta question. I have two other Enfields and they don't have that weld mark on the top of receiver like urs does but my r.t.i Enfield does like urs here .at first I thought it may have been a x sniper where they welded up the old threads. But the more I looked it up they weren't mounted at the top there so my guess is maybe that's just another way they manufactured the top the receiver like where the sight rest when folding down . Do you have any information on this.
So I don't have any specific information on this but I have noticed the same thing. Some No.4's have that weld and some don't. I just figured it had something to do with manufacturing differences. That's a great question though. It would be cool to know if there is more too it.
I too watched Mark Novak’s channel but use kerosene in a red solvent covered pan. Soak for at least overnight but it ends up usually being several says due to my schedule. I then generously soak all the parts in non detergent oil for an hour then blow out any extra with air. Reassemble with care to lubing the right spots and voila! A conserved authentic looking gun.
Is it a suncorite painted finish? Or something else? Usually, it can be pretty easy to tell if its painted or not. And I had no issues with carburetor cleaner on my suncorite painted parts for the brief moments it was on there. Though probably best not to over-do it just in case. Also, My suncorite part was only the trigger guard, trigger and magwell of an SMLE, so not very representative of very visible parts. Furthermore, some of it has come off long before it came into my possession, and the phosphating underneath it was unaffected as well.
Diesel fuel? ... how does that work lol... I might have to try it... hardens the finish. I’m guessing it’s just a layer of lubricant that’s super hard to remove and dries with residue like a clear coat almost?
The most important thing the diesel does is displace water. Which you really want after exposing the parts to water in this way. As far as what the diesel does to the finish chemically I'm not sure but it sure as heck makes the end result look awesome and it loosens up anything that hadn't previously been cleaned off. Once it's out of the diesel I let it air dry for a few hours and then get in there and wipe the rest up by hand making sure to get in all the nooks and crannies. The finished product comes out looking amazing. Kerosene is even better for this apparently but it's harder to source.
I boil all the bolt parts & that works great! Bring it to a good roiling boil. I have an old yard sale pot that I use but just remember don't use your wife's good pot from the kitchen she will not like that.
I should probably do this with my Enfield No.4 Mk1* and un-Bubba it in the process the best I can. I'll need a new fore stock as well as the hand guards and all the fixin's to secure said hand guards, as the Bubba who got their mits on this rifle sporterized the stock. :(
Luckily No.4 parts aren't all the expensive compared to some other milsurps. Personally if the barrel was cut down I probably wouldn't go through all the trouble of un-sporterising a rifle but it you actually did it that would be awesome. Good luck man!
@@ReadinessReviews Nope, barrel is original length with both sight base lugs and the bayonet lugs. Even has the original crown, as well as caliber and pressure data between the bayonet lugs and muzzle.
@@Gottaculat Funny thing that you only find caliber and pressure data on those rifles that were refurbished in England. My No.4 Mk1* Long Branch doesn't have that data or even import stamps on it.
I wonder why the bugs were all in it. I am hiding my dishes from Tracy as we speak 🤣🤣. I hope you don't cook with that dish 🤣🤣. Can't wait to see it finished
I do indeed still cook with that dish. This is one of the few positives of still living alone. This is the first gun I've had with bugs in it but this thing has been all around the world so who knows where those came from. Thanks for watching Leah!!
correct me if im wrong, but if you boil the parts that are exposed metal they will rust. its not rust that was there before. i dont see how that would be helpful unless re-blueing the rifle.
It still converts the underlying rust essentially "bluing" that specific area if it had rust before. If it was rust free it will remain rust free after carding.
@@ReadinessReviews but when you pulled the parts out they had orange rust in them. Not blued rust. trying to wrap my mind around this. I've only dabbled in bluing.
Simplifying stuff with metal parts is just getting a container and wd40 and letting the wd40 soak over the course of 3 days to get grease and the cosmoline.
I hope you get a canning jar 🫙 and save all the Royal 👑 🐅 Tiger Bugs 🐞 you gather over the years for Posterity! It’s too bad Royal Tiger doesn’t sell Rifles by the pound and give you a refund for dirt and bugs 🐛 returned for weight discounts!
Use acetone on your steel wool as it has oil in it to keep the steel wool from rusting. Mark Novak tell us that. This is the best way to do this. Good job.
Great point! I actually did that but forgot to mention it. I'm pinning your comment. Thanks for watching!
another helpful tip from Mark. put your small parts in a tea ball keeps them from getting lost or accidentally going down your drain or something
Simple Green helps remove Cosmoline from Metal and Wood. Either straight, diluted, hot or cold. Beet juice removes rust as well. ( beet juice may affect the rust blue finish however)
This was so helpful and completely free of bullshit. Your style of instruction is great! You could be a teacher, man.
Haha. Thanks! Glad you found it helpful.
My SMLE No1 MKIII* is starting to pick up rust. Old girl is over 106 years old so I want to preserve her as long as possible. Thank you for the video!
I bought a super rusty Star Model BM for like 150 bucks and bought some Brownell's Rust Blue. Sand blasted the gun with a harbor freight sand blaster kit, then rubbed that rust blue on and allowed it to rust over, then boiled it...then carded it and repeated about 4 times. It looks amazing now. When you use that rust blue the entire gun rusts over heavily with that red iron oxide before you boil it. I left it hang over my bath tub full of hot water to progress the rusting. I'll never use cold blue again. The rust blue is much, much more durable and better looking.
I used a brownell's carding brush because it worked better for me than steel wool getting into all the small areas. You did the right thing on this though, it didn't need refinishing and I generally am against refinishing milsurps. But this Star BM was beyond any point of collectibility because it looks like water got on the original cardboard box the gun was stored in and rusted the hell out of it. Maybe the warehouse it was stored in had a leaky roof or something.
Sounds like you did a fantastic job. I'll have to look into rust bluing. It sounds like something I could find very useful. Thanks for watching!!
Nice work cleaning up a piece of history
For the wood I use Murphy's Oil Soap and hot water. With a soft brush and a little time it cleans up nice. It's surprising how pretty some of that wood is once it's cleaned up.
I do the same for the wood on the outside. I get a little more aggressive on the inside wood if the gun it dirty enough to warrant it.
Great video! Never heard/seen the boil technique for rust removal. Have always gone with steel wool with oil and hand rubbing.
Keep up the great work.
The steel wool and oil does pretty good but the great thing about boiling is that it converts the surface layer back to black rust. Thanks for checking the video out!!!
You deserve more views and likes. Great videos!
Thanks man!
This is an amazing video. I didn’t know about boiling water doing that to metal
Thanks for Watching! I've only known for a few years myself.
Great video! I've got a sportered receiver with some fine red rust that I've been concerned about fixing, and now I've got a solution. Thanks for sharing!
Glad I could help! Just make sure the finish isn't some kind of paint. This can really mess those up. Thanks for checking the video out!!
Insanely helpful, thank you!
This is helpful i just bought my first rifle. It was so dirty as of right now it can fire so im happy until i can get the rest of the equipment to do a through cleaning
Awesome video RR.
Thanks! It could have been better If I planned it out.
I am working on my RTI B grade now so this is very helpful.
Nice! How was the bore on that B-Grade?
@@ReadinessReviews I paid for a good bore but how can they tell if I have to pull so much gunk out? I am not a good judge but after cleaning it is not bright like my SKS. I have a bore cam and will let you know.
Very interesting to see your process. Excited to see final results and some range action! Nice work brother!
I'm excited to get it to the range too. I'm still waiting on the last replacement parts to come and I'll be getting it back together. Thanks for watching my friend. take it easy brother!
You cannot be married using the baking tray and pot lol🤣
But seriously I have saved this video for cleaning my surplus rifles. Great stuff
Haha nope, no ring here lol. I do have a lovely girlfriend though... we live separately so I'm still in charge of the kitchen. Thanks for watching!!
Prep with detergent motor oil. Wash clean with simple green. Then naval jelly or steel wool and bore cleaner. Wash clean with simple green. Repeat as necessary.
Some use turpentine.
I would suggest changing your wool more often. The loose red oxide being removed is an abrasive thats held in the wool.
Good point
Very informative video buddy. I like your enthusiasm. Stay safe brother 🤝
Maybe this video will help someone. If so it was worth making. Thank you so much for watching buddy. Hope y'all are doing well.
lol thank you for your video. The rifles in RTI are so dirty... The recent Chassepot 1866-74 is so dirty and I’m tired to clean it...
They are an all day job to clean up. Good luck with yours!!
I've had good results on rust with a tooth brush sized wire brush. For me No.4 steel wool takes more finish off. On scaley rust I use a very dull knife then the brush.
Back in November, 2021 I bought a Mosin-Nagant 91/30. I'm grateful it's in good overall, in fact I'd say excellent condition, but with it being my first milsurp AND wooden stocked firearm I was worried about the inside where the unfinished wood had been somewhat darkened over time from gun oil. Wanting to get some of it out and cleaned up a little better I tried a method others had suggested as a starting point, the tools: Mr Clean's magic eraser and hot water. I only tried a little bit in the worst dark spots and surprise it actually worked, the wood surface became a little brighter (it's a dark wood stock anyway) and didn't feel "tacky" anymore - I also made sure to carefully dry and rub down every surface before reassembly.
I would appreciate your (and anyone else's) thoughts/suggestions on this subject.
Sincerely, your friendly milsurp novice😊
I've never tried that personally but it sounds like it worked out pretty well.
@@ReadinessReviews Thanks for the reply. I plan to keep a close eye on it and see how it fares over time. Checked it a few days ago and thankfully still look/feels good.
Thanks again from your milsurp novice🤗
Great video brother cant wait to fire it.
You and me both! The sights have been mailed so hopefully it wont be long.
One of my rifles a 1907-15 berthier rifle has som significant rust on the bolt and track? looks black but under certain light u can see the orange. Should i keep scouring the rust or just leave it? It was a lot worse.
And you've already boiled it? Sometimes it takes more than one cycle to get rust completely converted.
@@ReadinessReviews no i actually didnt boil it. Ive only ever done that with small parts and this rust is mainly on the inside of the bolt track :( Maybe i should at least do the bolt body and consider sticking only the part of the action that has the rust in the water.
I took all the metals parts of the Gew and let them sit inside a stainless steal bowl for most of the day with soap and made all getting gunk off easier.
People sleep on how good of a job plain old soap and water does at cleaning up firearms. Thanks for checking the video out dude! Just got in a RTI M1 carbine and oh man am I happy about it.
Readiness Reviews nice! I’m looking forward to seeing the review. They look pretty decent based on what everyone is putting out.
Simple green does a good job of it too.
Great tips! Very informative!
Thanks brother! You changed your channel name??
Readiness Reviews Yes Sir no one could handle the zip code 😂
Very coo!
Mark Novak is awesome
Yeah. He's great!
I have started a maintenance program for my Enfields. Like the British military they are linseed oiled hopefully every month. And the moving parts oiled with modern military grade oil. They are a bad expensive habit.
I soak the barrel & stock hardware in no odor mineral spirits in a long think plastic tub. Go to Home Depot garden department & you get a window planter box liner which is a long skinny plastic tub which works great for soaking a barrel & will only cost you about $6.
Sounds like that would do the trick!
I am curious, I was under the impression after boiling and carding you should put oil all over the parts since they have been degreased so the metal can soak it back in? Then wipe off excess
Will brake cleaner take off the Suncorite finish that's on some rifles?
That corrosion removal process woud probably work well for od rusry tools picked up at yard sales
Yup! I've done it.
You can use a penny to remove the chunky rust before boiling. Especially if there is original bluing on the rifle. The penny is hard enough to remove the rust, but not hard enough to scratch through the finish. Not much bluing left on that firearm tho. Great video.
Nice tip!! I recall hearing that before. I guess you are supposed to use a pre-1982 penny so they are full copper. Thanks for the reminder and for watching!!!
Just as a tip i wouldn’t use steel wool, but copper and oil seem to work better for me great video though
Copper and oil will make it look like the active rust is gone but it doesn't actually remove it. The boiling is great because it converts the rust to black oxide. Once the boiling is done you can use almost anything to do the carding just noting more coarse than 0000 steel wool. I've used brass, copper, and nylon brushes along with the steel wool. I probably didn't do the best job of explaining. Thanks for checking the video out!!!
@@ReadinessReviews Well dang, Thanks for that information I'm gonna need to test it out maybe when I get a myself a new project gun
Use brass brushes or brass wool instead of steel wool. brass is soften than steel and won't even remove the blueing.
0000 steel works well for large areas. I often use brass brushes for smaller spots.
Saw your Facebook post for this video. Good video!
Awesome! Thanks so much for checking it out!
I’ve never boiled a firearm. Thank you for sharing Sir. 🙏🏼👍🏼
It works but I would only do it to a gun with a blued finish. Thanks for checking the video out David. Have a great day!
Do you happen to remember the episode Mark Novak mentioned the diesel in?
Don't remember the episode off hand but I know he uses kerosene instead of diesel. They basically work the same though.
He has two videos . One is using his set up for rust blueing and the other is conservation and perseveration . I can’t recall which one mentions it , I think it is an alternative to using kerosene
I am looking to do something similar to my iffy Ishi No1 Mk3*. Its my understanding that most of the Lee's were oil blackened as a finish instead of blued. And since this rust conversion is literally rust bluing, but only on the active rust you need to convert, could that potentially cause some sort of issues with oil blackening? Have you noticed much of a difference in the converted rust to original finish on your Lee's? Should this process be done on rusty oil blackened firearms as well? Any sort of insight you have on this would be appreciated.
I vaguely remember Mark Novak, over on "Anvil" talk about avoiding working on "old dominion guns" for this reason, but may be miss remembering.
So the big issue with the British Empire firearms is the use of a paint finish. Absolutely don't do this to a painted Lee. As far as the finish on mine goes there is no visible difference between the rust blue and whatever the original finish was. I'd do some more research about the oil blackening though because I'm not sure about that.
@@ReadinessReviews Yeah a few of my parts, notably the trigger guard, is painted. And I believe they phosphated them before painting them with Suncorite. Rest of it is definetly oil blacked/some other finish, and if yours was fine, the non painted parts of mine should be.
I also heard you should coat your steel wool with some acetone so it doesn’t rust
Edit: Just saw the pinned comment
How / what did you use to card the parts that had holes for screws
Worked Steel wool down in there and twist back and forth. I've so used small bore brushes for tough to reach spots.
Do you need to use distilled water for boiling?
I've heard people say as much but I never have.
How long do you typically soak the parts in diesel for?
Is it ok to boil springs?
Ballistol is the best.
It's a staple for me.
is it safe to use that pot to cook in after you've done that with it?
Yolo
@@ReadinessReviews hence the question lol. I guess you don’t know?
@@RyGuyTheAVGuy it should be fine. I clean it really well afterwards. Recently I did upgrade to a pot specifically for parts boiling but for a couple of years I just used the same one I cook with.
@@ReadinessReviews okay that’s good enough for me lol, just didn’t want to permanently ruin a pot
I got a Lee from RTI and the parts what weren't open to the elements have a black painted finish (might be suncorite). You said to not put it through the carb cleaner cause it'll damage the rifle. What can I do to clean it otherwise or even remove the suncorite?
I'm not sure. I've never had to deal with that particular finish. I would suggest trying a couple different solvents in small spots to see if they have a negative reaction. If you don't want to risk it just stick to warm water and a mild soap. I wouldn't boil it though.
@@ReadinessReviews Thank you for the quick reply! What type of solvents would you recommend? This is my first milsurp so I'm extremely new to this.
@@jameswalker2588 You have to be really careful with a paint finish. I think it's probably better to stick with soap and water to be safe but there are tons of solvents that can be used for gun cleaning. Pretty much anything in the petroleum family works: diesel, gasoline, and kerosene. You can use denatured alcohol, mineral spirits, or acetone. Of course there are loads gun specific products. Good old Hoppe's No 9 has never let me down.
@@ReadinessReviews That painted finish on the Enfield's are just plain crap though. It's pretty much the same type of "BarbQue paint" you actually find on refurbished M91/30's that doesn't stay on for long.
Do you recommend getting a no.4 from royal tiger? I’m really on the edge
It's a roll of the dice. I got lucky with mine but others haven't. If I didn't already have one I'd probably take the chance but I'm afraid to go for a second one. I doubt I'd get lucky twice.
@@ReadinessReviews thanks! Who knows, with the ammo shortage and everything it might make good project.
Royal Tiger condition rates their guns using a fantasy system. “Excellent” is a beater anywhere else. Plenty of sources for British enfields out there. If you do buy from RT, get the worst rated, it’ll be half the price of their premium guns and essentially the same.
Nice vid! Used some of these methods for my own no4 restoration project. Do you know if 303 british is sold in the US? I can't find any in stores
Victory Arms and Century Arms has it in stock currently. It is basically impossible to find in stores.
@@ReadinessReviews Thanks for replying! Unfortunately, my state doesn't allow shipping ammo. I looked up century arms' dealers but they appear to be out of stock. The rifle makes for a nice wall piece at least! I also have the bayonet and it seems like it could be a great club if anything...
@@Mrcatwaffles dang that sucks. Maybe a local gun store could order you some?
@@ReadinessReviews I've tried asking at a few chain stores like big 5 but they said they can't. I'll probably have to find one that's locally owned. Thanks anyway though.
@@Mrcatwaffles yeah that's what I would do. Good luck man!
Hey bud gotta question. I have two other Enfields and they don't have that weld mark on the top of receiver like urs does but my r.t.i Enfield does like urs here .at first I thought it may have been a x sniper where they welded up the old threads. But the more I looked it up they weren't mounted at the top there so my guess is maybe that's just another way they manufactured the top the receiver like where the sight rest when folding down . Do you have any information on this.
So I don't have any specific information on this but I have noticed the same thing. Some No.4's have that weld and some don't. I just figured it had something to do with manufacturing differences. That's a great question though. It would be cool to know if there is more too it.
@@ReadinessReviews I'm gonna try and look into it more the one I have really looks like the weld is covering some kinda hole .
@@mrsurplusbangbang1857 Awesome. If you find something let me know!!
@@ReadinessReviews will do
@@ReadinessReviews Look up TH-cam for No.4 Mk1T that is the sniper version. but I think the scope was mounted on the side not 100% sure though.
Mmmm, ain't that a pile of tasty gunk. Haha.
The aroma of Enfield soup is hard to describe. The African influences really added something a little special.
New subscriber here, really enjoying your channel... quick question how long did you soak the parts in diesel for?
Thanks for the sub! I usually do 2-3 days.
I too watched Mark Novak’s channel but use kerosene in a red solvent covered pan. Soak for at least overnight but it ends up usually being several says due to my schedule. I then generously soak all the parts in non detergent oil for an hour then blow out any extra with air. Reassemble with care to lubing the right spots and voila! A conserved authentic looking gun.
@@tubbybutterman5711 how if diesel is literally a solvent.
So what do I use instead of carburetor cleaner in case of a painted finish I dont think mine has one but I wanna be safe
Is it a suncorite painted finish? Or something else? Usually, it can be pretty easy to tell if its painted or not. And I had no issues with carburetor cleaner on my suncorite painted parts for the brief moments it was on there. Though probably best not to over-do it just in case.
Also, My suncorite part was only the trigger guard, trigger and magwell of an SMLE, so not very representative of very visible parts. Furthermore, some of it has come off long before it came into my possession, and the phosphating underneath it was unaffected as well.
Just use soap and water.
Diesel fuel? ... how does that work lol... I might have to try it... hardens the finish. I’m guessing it’s just a layer of lubricant that’s super hard to remove and dries with residue like a clear coat almost?
The most important thing the diesel does is displace water. Which you really want after exposing the parts to water in this way. As far as what the diesel does to the finish chemically I'm not sure but it sure as heck makes the end result look awesome and it loosens up anything that hadn't previously been cleaned off. Once it's out of the diesel I let it air dry for a few hours and then get in there and wipe the rest up by hand making sure to get in all the nooks and crannies. The finished product comes out looking amazing. Kerosene is even better for this apparently but it's harder to source.
Readiness Reviews thank you. I appreciate it. The finish of the bluing however doesn’t become more shiny or anything strange like that right?
@@ReadinessReviews the kerosene is also less flammable then the diesel fuel
I boil all the bolt parts & that works great! Bring it to a good roiling boil. I have an old yard sale pot that I use but just remember don't use your wife's good pot from the kitchen she will not like that.
I just picked up a "new" boiling pot so now I don't have to use my cooking pot anymore lol. Thanks for checking out the video!!
I should probably do this with my Enfield No.4 Mk1* and un-Bubba it in the process the best I can.
I'll need a new fore stock as well as the hand guards and all the fixin's to secure said hand guards, as the Bubba who got their mits on this rifle sporterized the stock. :(
Luckily No.4 parts aren't all the expensive compared to some other milsurps. Personally if the barrel was cut down I probably wouldn't go through all the trouble of un-sporterising a rifle but it you actually did it that would be awesome. Good luck man!
@@ReadinessReviews Nope, barrel is original length with both sight base lugs and the bayonet lugs. Even has the original crown, as well as caliber and pressure data between the bayonet lugs and muzzle.
@@Gottaculat Well heck yeah then man. Un-sporter that thing. It deserves it.
@@Gottaculat Funny thing that you only find caliber and pressure data on those rifles that were refurbished in England. My No.4 Mk1* Long Branch doesn't have that data or even import stamps on it.
Hey is that my Mac and cheese dish you using?
I got it second hand so it could be LOL.
I wonder why the bugs were all in it. I am hiding my dishes from Tracy as we speak 🤣🤣. I hope you don't cook with that dish 🤣🤣. Can't wait to see it finished
I do indeed still cook with that dish. This is one of the few positives of still living alone. This is the first gun I've had with bugs in it but this thing has been all around the world so who knows where those came from. Thanks for watching Leah!!
@@ReadinessReviews 🤣🤣🤣 positive that you can clean your gun and bake ribs in the same dish.
@@leah890 Exactly LOL
I'm still waiting for someone to tell me the point where a lack of maintenance becomes "patina". Those totally look like bed bugs to me yikes!
I like to keep the maintenance up on my firearms.
Those are absolutely bed bug husks
correct me if im wrong, but if you boil the parts that are exposed metal they will rust. its not rust that was there before. i dont see how that would be helpful unless re-blueing the rifle.
It still converts the underlying rust essentially "bluing" that specific area if it had rust before. If it was rust free it will remain rust free after carding.
@@ReadinessReviews but when you pulled the parts out they had orange rust in them. Not blued rust. trying to wrap my mind around this. I've only dabbled in bluing.
Simplifying stuff with metal parts is just getting a container and wd40 and letting the wd40 soak over the course of 3 days to get grease and the cosmoline.
Great video! What did the wife say for using her nice tools😂
Thanks man!! The girlfriend and I have't reached that point yet but I can basically do whatever I want lol.
U clean like i do
It's a good way to do it! Thanks for watching!!
Rubber gloves. Use them. Your organs will thank you later. Also crud cutter works well for cleaning both metal and wood and is much safer
I always use my wife’s toothbrush and then put it back and she never knows except for the oily, gritty taste it leaves in her mouth.😂😂😂😂😂😂😂
0000 steel wool and used motor oil.
That works for looks but it doesn't stop the decay in the way boiling does.
Gloves man, just wear gloves
For what?
Readiness Reviews for your hand safety... the oil is corrosive
I hope you get a canning jar 🫙 and save all the Royal 👑 🐅 Tiger Bugs 🐞 you gather over the years for Posterity! It’s too bad Royal Tiger doesn’t sell Rifles by the pound and give you a refund for dirt and bugs 🐛 returned for weight discounts!