Min-Wax "Dark Walnut" stain multiple coats on new butt stock & handguard. Light coats on the rest of the stock. This will give an even dark finish to your stock. Finish it up with multiple coats of Boiled Linseed Oil or tung oil. I have done several No.1 Mk.3 and No.4's with good success. "Giter Dun"
A trick I learned on my own for putting the sear spring in is to fully assemble the sear and magazine release and then place the spring between the two before using a pair of channel locks to squeeze the two together and then it just clicks right into place with very little effort
Per your barrel wiggle there. Enfield accurizing channel has a bunch of nice videos covering the accurizing process for those babies. The barrel should rest snugly on the bottom wood, and should move upwards with about 4lbs of pressure to encounter the top wood. A trick to make up for the bottom wood shrinkage over time is to file down the stock bolt spacer to get that bedding set, or to get a piece of cork, slide it under your barrel and sand it until you get the thickness you need for decent bedding. Loved following along with your journey here. I have a few Enfields, they are beasts unto themselves.
i enjoy bringing things back. sometimes you can spend more than the rifle is worth, but to me the satifaction of saving a piece of history is worth it. the next owner will thank you. enfields are getting rarer as time passes. well done.
I couldn’t get sear/ mag release spring in your way. I put sear in with pin, mag release in with pin, then hooked the spring on the sear and took a pair of needle nose pliers to snap spring on mag release. Worked like a charm.... no fighting the spring. Hope it helps!
Couple things. I like your video, it’s good to see such a young man restoring and building rather than playing video games. Next put a little soap on your wood screws, it helps immensely with installation. Also your barrel should be free floating and the wood stock should not be tight to the point you have no movement. If it’s tight it can influence accuracy. Take on old phillips screw driver and cut the end off and take a dremel and slot the end about 1/16” deep and about 1/16 wide to fit the grub screw on your sight to tighten the dovetail.
Firstly I would likely center bed it, take a look at Bloke on the Range's video on it, you may be able to bed it correctly with proper up pressure at the muzzle, but that is unlikely if things have already started to warp. Center bedding is more accurate anyway, whatever you do don't free float it as the No4 barrel is pretty whippy and that reduces accuracy from proper bedding. Then I usually like to do 3 or 4 coats of raw linseed oil, and then if added protection and sheen is desired boiled linseed oil although technically not correct will add to the finish with 3 to 4 more coats
I got my hands on a No 4 Mk 1 with a beautiful bright bore, but it was missing the safety assembly. I sourced one from a shop in the UK but couldn't find any instructions on install until I watched this video. Thanks a lot!
A few tips- the movement of the muzzle up and down is in the design of this rifle. It should take about 4lbs of pressure to push the barrel upward and away from its bearing surface in the stock. Front sight block - be sure to clean the crud out of the slot in the sight block. The crud in there will prevent the clamping action needed to hold the sight blade in place. It looks like you may have a sight blade for a SMLE/P14. These blades are hardened so you may have trouble filing it to fit. Try to source the correct blade. Sear spring installation - put the spring in after you have installed the sear pin, magazine catch and bolt head release. Use a small needle nose plier to compress the spring just enough to insert the spring from a sidewards direction. Don’t compress the spring too much or you’ll break it. Make sure that the tangs on the spring end up in the notches provided. Enfield screw heads - the screw heads should be on the left side of the rifle. These are the swivels and front band screw. Safety catch alignment - hold the catch in your fingers with the handle at 12 o’clock and the long shaft facing you. You’ll know that the alignment of the side catch is correct when you thread it onto the shaft and the side catch tang is at the 11 o’clock position when it comes to rest. I hope this helps.
A little tip: whenever I put a screw into wood, especially with untapped holes, I'll put some paste wax on the screw first. This lubricates the screw and helps cut the thread.
I use Danish oil on my Milsurps, but I think I’d try some different stains first on some similar scrap pieces of wood to see if you might be able to get the wood close to matching on color. Heck of a project, hope it turns out to be a decent shooter after all the hard work!
On the nos stock pick your self up a # 50 pattern maker cabinet rasp file from brownells and Jerry fisher stock scrapers, the #50 cuts just on the forward stroke file just shy of but plate and finish with corse 80 then 100 grit for that military look , as far as the forend wood match sand and finish then stain the stock to match, yr doing great so far.
I went thru a similar experience but am stoked with the end result. It took more than a year, but my 1916 Enfield No 1 Mk iii* frankengun is now a beautiful range shooter. New old barrel, new walnut stock, the works. Great to see u got urs done too!
I used raw linseed oil (flaxseed oil) applied warm (about 100 degrees Fahrenheit) to the stock. Originally the stocks were dipped in a vat of warm raw linseed oil for about one minute then left to dry.
The barrel free floats in the front, so the looseness is correct. Tandy leather oil dye in medium or dark walnut will stain both pieces of woods very close in color. I've used leather dye for many years as a stain. The color is richer than any other wood stain out there. I'd finish it with a polyurethane satin finish. You could go with tongue oil but it takes a lot of coats and a ton of time to dry. The poly finish dries in one hour. Use 4 or more finger tip applied coats hand rubbing between coats with 0000 steel wool. You'll be pleased.
Great work on this one, came a long way. I agree on the NOS wood. Unless you have the tools and time to shave down those stock parts it's not worth the time to fit.
there is no wrong way of putting the sear spring in the way i do it is assemble it then compress the spring with needle nose and slip it in then push it in place so far thats the method that works for me great vid keep them comming !
For a project like this I would use walnut stain on it and try to match the colors as best as possible. Three or so coats of linseed oil then apply a mix of 1/3 each beeswax, turpentine and linseed oil (antique wood polish) as the final treatment. The wax mix replicates decades of use like nothing else I've tried before.
Very impressed with your tips and tricks there for putting the trigger and sear back in place, as well as replacing the butt stock. I would get a set of headspace gauges and test your new bolt head. As for the foresights get a full pack and a front sight drift tool for a No4 . Put up a 1 inch black square at 25 yards and aim at 6 O' Clock. If it hits low, get a bigger sight and if its high get a smaller front sight. Thats the best way to zero it for 200 yards
I think I would do a very light stain on that to try to get the colors more even and then use Tom's 1/3 mix. It's BLO, Beeswax, and mineral spirits. It's amazing stuff. I restored a Finn marked Carcano M38 in 7.35 that had been Bubba'd so I had to fit the action into a new stock....man that took forever. It looks good now though and luckily Bubba didn't mess with the metal at all, he had just chopped the stock down. I use .308 bullets shoved through a custom sizer and it works pretty good.
Boiled linseed oil is what I have used on my Enfield restorations in the past, but maybe try to to treat the butt stock and hand guards with Minwax Walnut stain first to get it closer to a uniform colour pattern. It doesn’t have to be perfect, a lot of “ dispersal rifles” were cobbled together with whatever components were available…
I've done a couple of No.4's and one SMLE. If done right you can do it for less than MSRP for a complete gun. It's also a great way to have fun and save an old gun.
Have you ever used water molasses mix soak to remove rust? It works well. Great visual, simple explanation of all the parts without the usual uh's and's and err's of others videos, well done!
I have done 2 no4's and I am working on a no1 currently. But for the no4's there is should be a little play at the muzzle end in all directions, and if that is the original forestock I wouldn't mess with it to much just give it some oil of your choosing and let it soak in because it looks very dry. But at the end of the day its up to you and you have it in your hands I don't
Dang, looking forward to pt. 2 when you get the front sight installed and whatever else the buttstock needed. Edit: Rip assembly pin (just saw that haha)
"This old Warhorse has fought me at every turn!" Well of course it has, my friend, 😁 It is a British Rifle and you're American! We, jokingly, like to make your life as hard as possible 😊
If there is upwards pressure at the front of the forestock on the barrel there is supposed to be some play. Bloke on the Range has a video on how these are supposed to be bedded.
Great informational video! Tell me, how did you remove the Handguard Retention Ring? On other videos I've watched, they say that the ring will not clear the front sight. I appreciate your help, as I cannot find any video or information how to remove one, as I need to replace mine.
The butt stock wood protruding beyond the butt plate is absolutely normal. As is the other end of the butt stock where it fits into the receiver. These were rush built in war time, there was zero time for tidying up any of the joins and seams. Guns were in demand at the front and the requirement was simple. Strong, accurate, fast and cheap to produce. I've seen better handle fitment to shovels than a butt stock rammed into that receiver ring on a Lee Enfield . It is just how they are.
Got some rifles from them, it was a mixed bag with the Spanish stuff in the worst shape of all, that being said everything else was in good-excellent shape. I will definitely buy from them again. Overall I got a good deal, and have lots of cleaning and minor gunsmithing in the future.
Hi! Great video and well done as usual! I have for restoration too. Got almost all parts. I am looking for lower wooden hand guard. Cause I’ve gotten a sporter. Where can I get that lower wooden hand guard according to your research? Thanks from Canada!
You can never go wrong with some BLO on an enfield stock but, tongue oil looks great and it’s already a franken-rifle so it wouldn’t hurt. Also did you decide if you were coming to steam it?
Try using non toxic Simple Green Cleaner from Home Depot to remove Cosmoline and Goat 🐐 💩 Poop. A tooth brush helps. Sometimes I heat the Simple Green on the Woodstove sometimes to make it more effective. Doesn’t harm wood 🪵 or Metal Finish.
good stuff much appreciated Im restocking a sporterized Lithgow w/ and Ishapore DP stock... finally got a long enough flathead (and only $15 to gether w/ a walther ccp mag at a favored pawn shop) but its a mystery what to do abt the leather washer and steel expansion washer that come out... the leather ones too small to go back on either bolt and the metal makes the bolt fall 3-4 threads short of completely securing in the receiver... any suggestions for sanding the IND wood to fit on the AUS brld rcvr?
Do not bed the barrel it is a floated barrel in that enfield and is suppose to have play in the stock. that play is in the design of the original rifle. in fact I believe there is a spec to the pressure to move the barrel in like inch pounds up down and left to right.
Original finish for this rifle would have been Raw linseed oil, the finished product is a bit warmer than BLO. Regarding the barrels sloppy fit in the stock, you want 2-7 pounds of UP pressure to achieve proper barrel bedding, if the barrel is free floating, you can shim the last 2-3 inches of the barrel channel with cork or similar to achieve proper stocking up. To be clear, the barrel should NOT contact the forend from the rienforce to the last 2-3 inches where the up pressure is If the barreled action is loose for/aft, then your draws are loose and need patching, firing the gun with loose draws will eventually grenade the forend, a fix can be achieved by cutting away some of the original draws and glueing in some oak and re fitting the draws.
I was hoping to disassemble my No. 4 for further cleaning, but the bolt stop plunger will not press down far enough to remove my bolt assembly. Can I safely access the bolt stop assembly area, without removing the bolt or damaging other parts, so I can determine what might be obstructing the plunger mechanism from moving freely downward?
Hey Ready.. you did it unreal.. a labor of love. CON GRATS. 👊. I was thinking about ordering a "Spanish Short Rifle" from Hunters Lodge there only $122.00 + shipping + transfer= under $200.00. Have you heard any thing on thoughs rifles ? If any thing it might be a RESTO project.
It's amazing how part conversion and carding has worked its way into youtubers lexicon AFTER Mark Novak demoed it on his gunsmithing channel - Anvil...
Does anyone have any advice on sourcing a forend for a no mk1? Might aquire a Sporter Enfield and wanna restore it to the best of my ability but can't find any on a cursory search.
Next time use cake hand soap 🧼 on the wood screws. Old Army Trick. Just screw the screws in a dry bath 🧼 soap cake and lube the threads and holes 🕳 with the soap flakes
Hey guys, do people ever send their milsurp rifles out to be professionally cleaned? Just picked up the same rifle and it’s in decent shape but I doubt my ability to do this
Ive got the greasy grunge off with gasolene, its what i had, now my bro has a solvent tank, if he only new i just ord 3 enf. Drill purp. guns that hel get to clean
I keep wondering why you half do everything? The stock needs to be cut down to proper size, the fore stock needs a sanding and finishing. Most of your videos are the same way. You seem to only want to get to the range and shoot them. How about a few vids where you really finish something?
You are very welcome for the parts - glad to see it coming together!
Thanks again buddy! Next video on the rifle should take us to the range.
I'm stuck needing a -4 bolt head to bring in my headspace , good luck on yours .BTW mine cost about the same in parts.Thanks for the vid .
Min-Wax "Dark Walnut" stain multiple coats on new butt stock & handguard. Light coats on the rest of the stock. This will give an even dark finish to your stock. Finish it up with multiple coats of Boiled Linseed Oil or tung oil. I have done several No.1 Mk.3 and No.4's with good success. "Giter Dun"
I can't believe you restored this piece of junk. Great job !
A trick I learned on my own for putting the sear spring in is to fully assemble the sear and magazine release and then place the spring between the two before using a pair of channel locks to squeeze the two together and then it just clicks right into place with very little effort
Per your barrel wiggle there.
Enfield accurizing channel has a bunch of nice videos covering the accurizing process for those babies. The barrel should rest snugly on the bottom wood, and should move upwards with about 4lbs of pressure to encounter the top wood. A trick to make up for the bottom wood shrinkage over time is to file down the stock bolt spacer to get that bedding set, or to get a piece of cork, slide it under your barrel and sand it until you get the thickness you need for decent bedding. Loved following along with your journey here. I have a few Enfields, they are beasts unto themselves.
i enjoy bringing things back. sometimes you can spend more than the rifle is worth, but to me the satifaction of saving a piece of history is worth it. the next owner will thank you. enfields are getting rarer as time passes. well done.
I couldn’t get sear/ mag release spring in your way. I put sear in with pin, mag release in with pin, then hooked the spring on the sear and took a pair of needle nose pliers to snap spring on mag release. Worked like a charm.... no fighting the spring. Hope it helps!
Couple things. I like your video, it’s good to see such a young man restoring and building rather than playing video games. Next put a little soap on your wood screws, it helps immensely with installation. Also your barrel should be free floating and the wood stock should not be tight to the point you have no movement. If it’s tight it can influence accuracy. Take on old phillips screw driver and cut the end off and take a dremel and slot the end about 1/16” deep and about 1/16 wide to fit the grub screw on your sight to tighten the dovetail.
One thing I learned about your videos - you have a lot of free time on your hands.
Way to go brother..Another informative video .Can't wait to see that old war horse shoot..
That old rifle still putting up a fight! Nice job so far, will feel great when you get her all finished up. Nice series.
Firstly I would likely center bed it, take a look at Bloke on the Range's video on it, you may be able to bed it correctly with proper up pressure at the muzzle, but that is unlikely if things have already started to warp. Center bedding is more accurate anyway, whatever you do don't free float it as the No4 barrel is pretty whippy and that reduces accuracy from proper bedding.
Then I usually like to do 3 or 4 coats of raw linseed oil, and then if added protection and sheen is desired boiled linseed oil although technically not correct will add to the finish with 3 to 4 more coats
This, so much this.
I got my hands on a No 4 Mk 1 with a beautiful bright bore, but it was missing the safety assembly. I sourced one from a shop in the UK but couldn't find any instructions on install until I watched this video. Thanks a lot!
A few tips-
the movement of the muzzle up and down is in the design of this rifle. It should take about 4lbs of pressure to push the barrel upward and away from its bearing surface in the stock.
Front sight block - be sure to clean the crud out of the slot in the sight block. The crud in there will prevent the clamping action needed to hold the sight blade in place. It looks like you may have a sight blade for a SMLE/P14. These blades are hardened so you may have trouble filing it to fit. Try to source the correct blade.
Sear spring installation - put the spring in after you have installed the sear pin, magazine catch and bolt head release. Use a small needle nose plier to compress the spring just enough to insert the spring from a sidewards direction. Don’t compress the spring too much or you’ll break it. Make sure that the tangs on the spring end up in the notches provided.
Enfield screw heads - the screw heads should be on the left side of the rifle. These are the swivels and front band screw.
Safety catch alignment - hold the catch in your fingers with the handle at 12 o’clock and the long shaft facing you. You’ll know that the alignment of the side catch is correct when you thread it onto the shaft and the side catch tang is at the 11 o’clock position when it comes to rest.
I hope this helps.
Dude I can’t wait to see this beauty finished!!!!
A little tip: whenever I put a screw into wood, especially with untapped holes, I'll put some paste wax on the screw first. This lubricates the screw and helps cut the thread.
I use Danish oil on my Milsurps, but I think I’d try some different stains first on some similar scrap pieces of wood to see if you might be able to get the wood close to matching on color. Heck of a project, hope it turns out to be a decent shooter after all the hard work!
Do you coat with polyurathane over danish oil or just use the oil?
On the nos stock pick your self up a # 50 pattern maker cabinet rasp file from brownells and Jerry fisher stock scrapers, the #50 cuts just on the forward stroke file just shy of but plate and finish with corse 80 then 100 grit for that military look , as far as the forend wood match sand and finish then stain the stock to match, yr doing great so far.
Thanks for the tip!!
Love the video I own a no4. Mk1 from February 1944 that I have been thinking about redoing for months now
I went thru a similar experience but am stoked with the end result. It took more than a year, but my 1916 Enfield No 1 Mk iii* frankengun is now a beautiful range shooter. New old barrel, new walnut stock, the works. Great to see u got urs done too!
I used raw linseed oil (flaxseed oil) applied warm (about 100 degrees Fahrenheit) to the stock. Originally the stocks were dipped in a vat of warm raw linseed oil for about one minute then left to dry.
You will be so much happier with the rifle after you fit the stock properly. I just went through the same process.
The barrel free floats in the front, so the looseness is correct. Tandy leather oil dye in medium or dark walnut will stain both pieces of woods very close in color. I've used leather dye for many years as a stain. The color is richer than any other wood stain out there. I'd finish it with a polyurethane satin finish. You could go with tongue oil but it takes a lot of coats and a ton of time to dry. The poly finish dries in one hour. Use 4 or more finger tip applied coats hand rubbing between coats with 0000 steel wool. You'll be pleased.
Jacobean is the color i put on my lee enfield. Then i used the linseed oil. It turned out really nice.
Great work on this one, came a long way. I agree on the NOS wood. Unless you have the tools and time to shave down those stock parts it's not worth the time to fit.
there is no wrong way of putting the sear spring in the way i do it is assemble it then compress the spring with needle nose and slip it in then push it in place so far thats the method that works for me great vid keep them comming !
For a project like this I would use walnut stain on it and try to match the colors as best as possible. Three or so coats of linseed oil then apply a mix of 1/3 each beeswax, turpentine and linseed oil (antique wood polish) as the final treatment. The wax mix replicates decades of use like nothing else I've tried before.
Very impressed with your tips and tricks there for putting the trigger and sear back in place, as well as replacing the butt stock. I would get a set of headspace gauges and test your new bolt head. As for the foresights get a full pack and a front sight drift tool for a No4 . Put up a 1 inch black square at 25 yards and aim at 6 O' Clock. If it hits low, get a bigger sight and if its high get a smaller front sight. Thats the best way to zero it for 200 yards
Looking good!
absolutely fantastic
Tounge oil works really well on stocks.
I think I would do a very light stain on that to try to get the colors more even and then use Tom's 1/3 mix. It's BLO, Beeswax, and mineral spirits. It's amazing stuff.
I restored a Finn marked Carcano M38 in 7.35 that had been Bubba'd so I had to fit the action into a new stock....man that took forever. It looks good now though and luckily Bubba didn't mess with the metal at all, he had just chopped the stock down. I use .308 bullets shoved through a custom sizer and it works pretty good.
Boiled linseed oil is what I have used on my Enfield restorations in the past, but maybe try to to treat the butt stock and hand guards with Minwax Walnut stain first to get it closer to a uniform colour pattern. It doesn’t have to be perfect, a lot of “ dispersal rifles” were cobbled together with whatever components were available…
I've done a couple of No.4's and one SMLE. If done right you can do it for less than MSRP for a complete gun. It's also a great way to have fun and save an old gun.
Have you ever used water molasses mix soak to remove rust? It works well.
Great visual, simple explanation of all the parts without the usual uh's and's and err's
of others videos, well done!
Just do Walnut finish and it will cover up the colors. Nice job on the Hunter's Lodge rifle.
mineral spirits work well too
Great video
Good luck on the range. Bore condition should tell you a lot about how well it's gonna shoot.
I have done 2 no4's and I am working on a no1 currently. But for the no4's there is should be a little play at the muzzle end in all directions, and if that is the original forestock I wouldn't mess with it to much just give it some oil of your choosing and let it soak in because it looks very dry. But at the end of the day its up to you and you have it in your hands I don't
Dang, looking forward to pt. 2 when you get the front sight installed and whatever else the buttstock needed.
Edit: Rip assembly pin (just saw that haha)
One old 69cal napalese musket i got from hunters lodge was broken in half, they exchanged it😊
Mineral spirits works wonders.
I've had good luck with Easy Off oven cleaner.
ive had very good results with tung oil.
"This old Warhorse has fought me at every turn!" Well of course it has, my friend, 😁 It is a British Rifle and you're American!
We, jokingly, like to make your life as hard as possible 😊
Awesome
If there is upwards pressure at the front of the forestock on the barrel there is supposed to be some play. Bloke on the Range has a video on how these are supposed to be bedded.
Great informational video! Tell me, how did you remove the Handguard Retention Ring? On other videos I've watched, they say that the ring will not clear the front sight. I appreciate your help, as I cannot find any video or information how to remove one, as I need to replace mine.
It will only clear the front sight if the sight blade is removed.
@@ReadinessReviews Thank you for responding so quickly. You've been a great help!
The butt stock wood protruding beyond the butt plate is absolutely normal. As is the other end of
the butt stock where it fits into the receiver. These were rush built in war time, there was zero time for
tidying up any of the joins and seams. Guns were in demand at the front and the requirement was simple.
Strong, accurate, fast and cheap to produce. I've seen better handle fitment to shovels than a butt stock
rammed into that receiver ring on a Lee Enfield . It is just how they are.
lol the 2 piece stock design really saves on costs when you get a broken stock on a lee enfield at least
Got some rifles from them, it was a mixed bag with the Spanish stuff in the worst shape of all, that being said everything else was in good-excellent shape. I will definitely buy from them again.
Overall I got a good deal, and have lots of cleaning and minor gunsmithing in the future.
Great video as always. Of course no price on fun of restoration but any regrets you just didn’t get 349 RTI?
That would have been a better buy imo.
I got a mk2 Enfield it's the only one I got it's a solid rifle built like a tank they are crazy durable.
Patty Puritan mil surp nerds are hilarious 😂😂
Use a light gray stain or brown stain apply it very liberally until you get the color you want
Hi! Great video and well done as usual! I have for restoration too. Got almost all parts. I am looking for lower wooden hand guard. Cause I’ve gotten a sporter. Where can I get that lower wooden hand guard according to your research? Thanks from Canada!
I think u should use a stain on this rifle that way u can get the wood to match. then some danish oil or linseed.
You can never go wrong with some BLO on an enfield stock but, tongue oil looks great and it’s already a franken-rifle so it wouldn’t hurt. Also did you decide if you were coming to steam it?
Try using non toxic Simple Green Cleaner from Home Depot to remove Cosmoline and Goat 🐐 💩 Poop. A tooth brush helps. Sometimes I heat the Simple Green on the Woodstove sometimes to make it more effective. Doesn’t harm wood 🪵 or Metal Finish.
good stuff
much appreciated
Im restocking a sporterized Lithgow
w/ and Ishapore DP stock... finally got
a long enough flathead (and only $15
to gether w/ a walther ccp mag at
a favored pawn shop) but its
a mystery what to do abt
the leather washer and
steel expansion washer
that come out... the leather
ones too small to go back
on either bolt and the metal
makes the bolt fall 3-4 threads
short of completely securing
in the receiver... any suggestions
for sanding the IND wood to fit
on the AUS brld rcvr?
Do not bed the barrel it is a floated barrel in that enfield and is suppose to have play in the stock. that play is in the design of the original rifle. in fact I believe there is a spec to the pressure to move the barrel in like inch pounds up down and left to right.
Anvil uses Danish oil and I have had success with it.
Original finish for this rifle would have been Raw linseed oil, the finished product is a bit warmer than BLO.
Regarding the barrels sloppy fit in the stock, you want 2-7 pounds of UP pressure to achieve proper barrel bedding, if the barrel is free floating, you can shim the last 2-3 inches of the barrel channel with cork or similar to achieve proper stocking up. To be clear, the barrel should NOT contact the forend from the rienforce to the last 2-3 inches where the up pressure is
If the barreled action is loose for/aft, then your draws are loose and need patching, firing the gun with loose draws will eventually grenade the forend, a fix can be achieved by cutting away some of the original draws and glueing in some oak and re fitting the draws.
I was hoping to disassemble my No. 4 for further cleaning, but the bolt stop plunger will not press down far enough to remove my bolt assembly. Can I safely access the bolt stop assembly area, without removing the bolt or damaging other parts, so I can determine what might be obstructing the plunger mechanism from moving freely downward?
I use gasoline to remove cosmoline it works well. Obviously, you have to use common sense. Great job sir!
Hey Ready.. you did it unreal.. a labor of love. CON GRATS. 👊. I was thinking about ordering a "Spanish Short Rifle" from Hunters Lodge there only $122.00 + shipping + transfer= under $200.00. Have you heard any thing on thoughs rifles ? If any thing it might be a RESTO project.
Hey I noticed the shiny No.4 mk.1 in the bacground, is that a parade status gun? Do you anything about it?
It's nothing special. The bluing is just worn to a shine. Nice shooter though.
How did you go about ordering from Hunters Lodge?
It's amazing how part conversion and carding has worked its way into youtubers lexicon AFTER Mark Novak demoed it on his gunsmithing channel - Anvil...
Check out liberty tree collecters, they have a bunch of parys
She looks rough.. She looks tough. She a old Brit that looks good.
Does anyone have any advice on sourcing a forend for a no mk1? Might aquire a Sporter Enfield and wanna restore it to the best of my ability but can't find any on a cursory search.
Caster oil ,is your man
Enfeild barrels are weird. they are supposed to have a bit of wiggle in them.
Looks like walnut and Queensland Maple.
Diesel 6 dollar a gallon good like for big guns you work on
Next time use cake hand soap 🧼 on the wood screws. Old Army Trick. Just screw the screws in a dry bath 🧼 soap cake and lube the threads and holes 🕳 with the soap flakes
Hey guys, do people ever send their milsurp rifles out to be professionally cleaned? Just picked up the same rifle and it’s in decent shape but I doubt my ability to do this
Watched 8 11 22
Ive got the greasy grunge off with gasolene, its what i had, now my bro has a solvent tank, if he only new i just ord 3 enf. Drill purp. guns that hel get to clean
safety PSA
NEVER USE GASOLINE! gasoline fumes will roll out of the container, find an ignition source and give you a real bad day.
Danish oil
Educational, but I feel that this is a lot of trouble and expense for a rifle that can be purchased for about half of what you paid for parts
Have you. Threenot three Atgood conditions
Not tar. Cosmoline.
I keep wondering why you half do everything? The stock needs to be cut down to proper size, the fore stock needs a sanding and finishing. Most of your videos are the same way. You seem to only want to get to the range and shoot them. How about a few vids where you really finish something?
Oven cleaner/ sodium hydroxide/ lye-all the same thing, will degrease anything