I have a 94 Ford F150, 4.9 L four-wheel-drive. I pulled the ECM out and replace the capacitors and it took care of everything that was running weird on my pick up. My truck was stuck on high idle. Replacing the capacitors made this truck run great. Thank you for the video.
@@Purosanluispotosi in the distributor box, the #1 relay could be the issue, swap that relay with the horn relay ( the relays are the same) and test it. could be the issue
I'm wondering how big a mess it is to replace the box where the relays go. Mine was burned on one end when the power steering or cruise control caught fire.
Thank you for taking the time to show us! Hope your rebuilder took care of you, if he didn't I could solder new Capacitors in it for you. It's less than 5 dollars worth of parts.
Thanks for the great video. I lost fire with a check engine light. I got a code reader and read code 211 failed PIP circuit. I replaced the PIP sensor to return control to the ignition coil. But I found a comment that failing capacitors in the PCM can cause the same OBD1 code 211. I need to check/replace them so I don't end up on the roadside a third time.
So I just took mine out took 2hrs and lots of sweating and cussing. The computer was rusted and seized in the bracket on the inside, wd 40 and prying and pretty much destroying the computer I finally got it out, thankfully when I opened it up it did have a couple capacitors that were burned up so I didn't remove/ break it for no reason. But I have no idea how I'm going to put the new one in 🤷♂️ Ideally I would like to relocate it inside the cab. Also the nuts on mine were 11mm, 12mm will work but a little loose.
Clear and concise. Just a thought, I just learned that the PCM also controls the transmission after months of trying to figure out where the "TCM" was located..... If that could be dubbed in. Thanks!
The computer is an aluminum casing, the bracket it slides into is steel. I'd bet that there is corrosion holding it in, try wiggling it up and down, and maybe even gently prying with a flat head screwdriver
@mavsfabshop thanks I just had to beat it out from the inside. It was really corroded to the bracket. If I buy a computer from the parts store do I have to have it programmed or anything weird? Or should I just buy a soldering iron and re do the capacitor that's just tumbling around in there?
@@beavanutz8336 I'm not brave enough to try and solder it back together, but you could try it. If you buy one from the parts store, they'll need the Vin and most likely the Calibration code on the door jamb
I have a 94 Ford F150, 4.9 L four-wheel-drive. I pulled the ECM out and replace the capacitors and it took care of everything that was running weird on my pick up. My truck was stuck on high idle. Replacing the capacitors made this truck run great. Thank you for the video.
We’re are located that plcaoacitors I have same problem that fule pump stay on on my ford bronco
@@Purosanluispotosi in the distributor box, the #1 relay could be the issue, swap that relay with the horn relay ( the relays are the same) and test it. could be the issue
If theres a bad or faulty pcm. Can it cause engine to misfire and everything else not work?
Where did you get the ecu sent off to
Looking forward to your video diagnosing pcm as the issue 👍🍻
theres no way youre actually doing any of this. you didnt complain once about losing the socket you just had.
You're right. I had my clone from an alternate universe do this. He's way better at keeping up with things than I am lol
I'm wondering how big a mess it is to replace the box where the relays go. Mine was burned on one end when the power steering or cruise control caught fire.
Thank you for taking the time to show us! Hope your rebuilder took care of you, if he didn't I could solder new Capacitors in it for you. It's less than 5 dollars worth of parts.
Thanks for the great video. I lost fire with a check engine light. I got a code reader and read code 211 failed PIP circuit. I replaced the PIP sensor to return control to the ignition coil. But I found a comment that failing capacitors in the PCM can cause the same OBD1 code 211. I need to check/replace them so I don't end up on the roadside a third time.
So I just took mine out took 2hrs and lots of sweating and cussing. The computer was rusted and seized in the bracket on the inside, wd 40 and prying and pretty much destroying the computer I finally got it out, thankfully when I opened it up it did have a couple capacitors that were burned up so I didn't remove/ break it for no reason. But I have no idea how I'm going to put the new one in 🤷♂️ Ideally I would like to relocate it inside the cab. Also the nuts on mine were 11mm, 12mm will work but a little loose.
If there’s a will there’s a way
yup, mine is stuck, and I'm like what? but now more videos I see that it is common for them to be stuck in there...
Ok good it’s not just me I thought I was doing something wrong
I do have a question is the pcm the same as the ECM?
My mechanic says I need to replace the brain of my 1996 f150 is the ecm what he’s talking about?
Honestly, I'm not sure what he would define as a brain
where to you send them for repair
Super helpful but wish we could get some ford truck and van videos without the southern accent for once. With all due respect of course.
All the northern obs trucks have long since rotted into the dirt lol
Helped me. Thanks for doing this video. Love the obs fords 👍
Thanks man I thought I was going to have to take the dash out.
Clear and concise. Just a thought, I just learned that the PCM also controls the transmission after months of trying to figure out where the "TCM" was located..... If that could be dubbed in. Thanks!
Where did you send it out too?
Following. Got a 96 460
Thnx bud huge help.
Hi...wy it you said that computer it was the problem...what Simmons...please
I wish you would have shown how you got the ECM plug off. I've been wrenching on that 10mm bolt holding it on for a long time and it's still stuck on.
Great video ! I replaced my ecm capacitors but it does not want to turn on now !! What do you recommend Mave?!
I have a 92 f150 custom it over heated and has been stuck in limp mode ever since I hoping it's just the brain. Any thoughts?
Did you ever make that video on Diag of the ecm and how you knew it was bad?
Where do you send it out for repair?! Thanks
Thanku I have a 96 f350 diesel pick up and y’all’s videos help
Nice job Maverick! 🙂👍 Glad to see you out wrenching on something! Take care my friend 🔧🔩
Thanks, buddy! I'll have another video out this week!
Definitely helped me I'm trying to pull it out and inspect it
Thanks, got mine out, of course it's smoked!!
It is the powertrain control module not ecm
Hello...why did you remove the ECM? For what reason? Was the truck not running correctly? What was the symptom?
I took it out because i figured out it was bad
👏🏽 appreciated stuff!!
Helped me thank you
Can you link the video to where you found out it was the ECM?
Unfortunately I don't have a video of my diagnosis
Thanks for the video, doing a bronco about to have some fun
I saw it removed from a Bronco on a different video. It was inside and required removing the kick panel nothing under the fender.
Where did you send it off to to get it repaired?
Honestly, I don't remember where I sent it to. I'll have to dig the paperwork out and look
Any tips to get the computer to slide out of there? I have even tried pushing it out from the inside of the cab and can't get it to come out.
The computer is an aluminum casing, the bracket it slides into is steel. I'd bet that there is corrosion holding it in, try wiggling it up and down, and maybe even gently prying with a flat head screwdriver
@mavsfabshop thanks I just had to beat it out from the inside. It was really corroded to the bracket. If I buy a computer from the parts store do I have to have it programmed or anything weird? Or should I just buy a soldering iron and re do the capacitor that's just tumbling around in there?
@@beavanutz8336 I'm not brave enough to try and solder it back together, but you could try it. If you buy one from the parts store, they'll need the Vin and most likely the Calibration code on the door jamb