Ian is a great teacher! Beau plays a great student, too. If you guys make Beau EXTRA-*special* im sure there would be some great laughs and bonus lessons to be learned!
Tct annular cutter in a drill press or mill. I've even used end mills on smaller OD tubing. I found no matter what I did, cutting fluid, calculated speeds etc those bi-metal holesaws never lasted more than a few cuts before the teeth started breaking.
Which is unfortunate, especially with steel, I love using hole saws and annular cutters for notching my tubes when doing handrails. But steel just destroys them, aluminum isn’t much of a problem, but it’s so easy, why haven’t they made a special cutter simply made for handrails up to 2” I would buy it as long as they lasted.
100% the belt gave the nicest fit, only problem is he went from a $500.00 notcher to a $150.00 chop saw to a $1200.00 ish belt sander and still had to dress with an angle grinder.
CNC, maybe. Even then the cut isn't clean enough for quality welding. That's why nobody I've seen does it that way. 95% of pro shops use a version of the hole saw fixture.
Or, to prevent your wrist from breaking when using an electric drill is to use the handle provided. Stepping on the power cord, if it’s not a battery model, isn’t the brightest idea ever.
WD-40? better off peeing on it at least it has a cooling effect. no seriously try Castrol Stick Wax Metal Cutting Lubricant,, used it for years with bandsaw, hole saw, hacksaw, Sawzall ect. less mess and a little go's a long way., the belt is the way to go otherwise I notch my pipe on a knee mill with carbide cutters.
Ian is a great teacher! Beau plays a great student, too. If you guys make Beau EXTRA-*special* im sure there would be some great laughs and bonus lessons to be learned!
Awesome video guys! Thanks!
This is great if you have a "shop", but a "Do it yourselfer"? That's a different beast.
Kool vid.
I'd like to make a roll bar from that material.
Tct annular cutter in a drill press or mill. I've even used end mills on smaller OD tubing. I found no matter what I did, cutting fluid, calculated speeds etc those bi-metal holesaws never lasted more than a few cuts before the teeth started breaking.
Which is unfortunate, especially with steel, I love using hole saws and annular cutters for notching my tubes when doing handrails. But steel just destroys them, aluminum isn’t much of a problem, but it’s so easy, why haven’t they made a special cutter simply made for handrails up to 2” I would buy it as long as they lasted.
You both have used Grindr?
Any of the better holesaw fixtures in the $200-$300 range are as good as you'll ever need. Even a cheap Asian special beats a grinder.
Ever notch with a portable band saw?
100% the belt gave the nicest fit, only problem is he went from a $500.00 notcher to a $150.00 chop saw to a $1200.00 ish belt sander and still had to dress with an angle grinder.
Then you have to have all the right diameter rollers. Do they even make them small enough for 1/2” pipe?
I use $1-$2 cutting wheels on angle grinder (after marking of course).😵
For a 90 joint, cut 15 degree mitres on end of pipe,
that's notch yo cheese.........I'll let myself out.
Plasma Cutter
CNC, maybe. Even then the cut isn't clean enough for quality welding. That's why nobody I've seen does it that way. 95% of pro shops use a version of the hole saw fixture.
Or, to prevent your wrist from breaking when using an electric drill is to use the handle provided. Stepping on the power cord, if it’s not a battery model, isn’t the brightest idea ever.
WD-40? better off peeing on it at least it has a cooling effect. no seriously try Castrol Stick Wax Metal Cutting Lubricant,, used it for years with bandsaw, hole saw, hacksaw, Sawzall ect. less mess and a little go's a long way., the belt is the way to go otherwise I notch my pipe on a knee mill with carbide cutters.