Years ago while living in East Texas I had several thousand board feet of my pine lumber cut on a friends portable sawmill to build a shop/storage building and a store/play area for my wife. I leveled treated 4X6's four feet apart on top of cement blocks which were leveled on the ground in the middle of one of our pastures. I stickered it and covered it with a bunch of old tin my Dad had laying around his place. Worked great but it was dimensional lumber not 10/4 slabs. I had knot free framing lumber and 1"X12" siding for the buildings.
I am really happy to see this Matt. Great information. I have been wondering about drying wood outside because I have so little space in garage for wood working much less storing wood. This gives me some great ideas for storing wood in my back yard and perhaps I can now visit an actual sawmill. Arkansas is insect Mecca particularly for fire ants and carpenter ants. The concrete blocks should help a great deal. Thanks so much for the information.
With my stacks I just started buying 2x4's and making a rectangle frame with cross members in it. This way if the stacks are on slanted ground it doesn't affect anything since the surface they're sitting on is flat. Time will tell if its a good method..
Do you know if the Ash tree died from the Emerald Ash Borer??? I have looked at property to buy here in central Ohio and every property has dead ash trees or tree stumps caused by EAB.... Looking forward to see what you do with all those SLABS!!!!
Thanks Matt! Great video. If a fella had an carport like structure would it be an advantage to store the wood under a roof instead of outside? Or is it better for the lumber to get a little bit of the weather?
I love it...subbed...I was bitten by the wood bug last summer after a derecho blew down two big elms in my immediate back yard. It looks like I'll be recieving some elm, ash, maple, pine, and possibly some walnut logs from my neighbor in a few weeks or whenever all this snow melts...I've been processing some elm and pine into firewood but I plan on hand milling logs in the future...this video was helpful as I know very little about the process. I dont think I'd trust those blocks sitting on the very sandy soil I have in nw illinois near the Mississippi so I'd be inclined to pour a concrete slab to build my stacks off of...I pour concrete for a living so I can do a 10ftx10ftx4in slab for around $150 and pretty much guarantee it will always be flat and level for decades at least...I'm sure you could do the same as you sound like you're at least somewhat familiar with the process. Anyway, thanks for the vid!
You need to have more cuts where you end up in random places like on top of the stack, or next to it. And more random poses. And they should increase in frequency as the video progresses. And the poses should get more involved. And begin to involve props. And your delivery should remain deadpan throughout. Otherwise, great video!
To answer your question - yes we do this thing all the time, specifically nowadays when there's nothing much on the telly (or at least no quality log drying shows) and we don't feel like riding our bicycle - again. You seem to get the hang of it though :) Best from Amsterdam, Europe Mic-:
You have used the concrete blocks improperly on your existing stack. You have the correct orientation on your new one. Those blocks are not designed to be load bearing on their sides. I enjoy your videos. Very calming.
As long as you are using the wood for your own purposes, great. But your method of drying will produce lower quality lumber and potentially lumber infesting with wood boring beetles (or their former channels or beetle holes). You are giving WRONG information to people about this. Your videos are insightful but you need to do better research. Too many TH-camrs are creating video purely for content and advertising dollars with a lack of true industry experience. Love what you do. Just know that Minnesota absolutely suffers from wood borers too (even when drying). You need to research borax based insecticides which should be sprayed on every board after milling to prevent infestation of your lumber that is not kiln dried. Once you get beetles, you risk all your wood becoming a problem. They can live in your wood for years of continual growth cycles. And people should avoid air wood dried like this unless it has been through a few days of sterilizing in a kiln or at the very least properly treated for wood borers. Matt, people go to you for information, please make sure you are telling the full story. Try spending a few days with a local sawmill who does this professionally and involve them in a video. So you can share both your DIY experiences while not misleading people. Get a true expert to help you.
Your one of those guys that thinks you cant do anything unless you have a "expert" watching you at all times. He's drying slabs for table tops. You act like he's committing a crime or something.
Great little trick with the wedge! And I have had some good luck with a product I get at one of the big box stores, it's called a No-Pest strip. They aren't too expensive so I buy a few and put them randomly in some voids or spaces although I have tarps over my stacks which I think keeps the smell or whatever it is the bugs don't like in the area better. Another great vid brother and you have some potential projects for years right there👍
Many thanks, Matthew!, I have watched this video three times. I have a question, I receive as a gift two 8x1 tables of coigue wood, and I need to dry them, should I tie them up? or not? when do you decide to tie them and when not?. Many thanks from Valdivia, Chile.
Hi Matt; have enjoyed your videos for years but only just subscribed, sorry! I'm interested in your opinions with respect to outdoor lumber storage/drying in snowy areas? (NE New York, in my case) Do you think that additional protection is required? It WILL get snowed on during two years of drying, with up to 6-18 inches of snow lingering for weeks at a time...All my indoor storage options are filled with some happy maples, ashes, and walnuts! Any thoughts? In any event - thanks for what you're doing here!
How do you stack those huge slabs? I have an 11 ft long by 60 inch diameter silver maple log to mill up and need to move them a couple hundred yards. Each 2.5 inch slab is pretty heavy. I have been putting off slabbing this beast due to having no good stacking & drying plan, but after this video I'm going to jump in. Thanks in advance.
Hey Matt, I live in northern MN in the Bemidji area. Just about to start milling myself. I'd love to visit your place sometime if that's possible. Thanks for the great video!
Hi Matt, I enjoy your channel. Being a builder for a long time I have a suggestion if you want it. Why not use a mason line with mason's corners to line up the blocks instead of the ladder. It will be faster because you will not have to keep moving the ladder and setting it up again. Give it a try. Thanks for your craftsmanship.
I have a stack of silver maple that I had milled but I don't have shaded area to store it. My local mill suggested I cover it with tarp. My concern is it wouldn't have proper ventilation. What do you think.
What about snow? I couldn't find this question answered in the comments and maybe it's because it's obvious by the fact that the stacks are uncovered. I get that rain will run off, but what about snow and ice which will just sit on top of the stack or freeze to the side of it giving water the opportunity to really soak in?
+Steed's Wood Working I knew of the silent killer before I started stacking out here but I have grown more anal over the years on how well I establish a foundation
This makes me want to get started logging my own wood. Although, I don't have the space to set up a large drying stack. Thanks for the inspiration Matt.
Don’t forget preserving the overall forest when those lumber dollar signs $$ in your eyes. Most trees we would want to cut usually take 100-200 years to grow that big. Looking back on history we need to temper our hunger for wood and wood products and align it to the regrowth rate of the woods. Once your trees are cut. You will never see trees that big on your property in your lifetime again if you decide to cut them all.
Matt, thank you for the information. I do have one question. Does not the process of decomposition start under the bark? What role does the bark play in maintaining quality lumber?
No, the sapwood doesn't rot under the bark. I just leave it on since it's less work and leaves more possibilities in the future. The bark can also help protect the live edge during handling. thanks!
Matthew Cremona thanks for the information I have one more question Can you leave the slabs outside as long as you want or can the wood get to old? We have some slabs and they are inside for years now and they look like they are too old. Sounds crazy but they doesn't look like a normal slab. At some spots they start to look like the wood is getting soft.
Speaking of harsh winters, it is a joy to see you surrounded by greenery and standing on you milled logs. Some of your winter videos with blowing snow were brutal.
+peggyt1243 totally. I was watching one of those videos the other day and couldn't even remember how miserable it was. Must have been too traumatic to remember
I’m in the process of getting started studying all I can your videos really help. One question I have for you both economically and strength. Would using metal banding on your slabs holding them tight be of benefit?
Matt - Does every species have a different drying time before you can actually use it in a project? You've cut most everything into slab form...any reason you haven't cut any 5/4 boards in any quantity? I realize you tend to cut your wood per project, but isn't one by material always needed in your shop? Any idea of how many 5/4 board feet are sitting out back?
So awesome. I'm out in AZ and I lucked into a couple decent-sized mesquite branches (~4' L x ~8" D). They've been drying in the shop for over a year, and now I'm looking at bandsaws and dreaming about milling them into boards. How long should I leave them alone before I cut them into boards? After they're boards, how long should I dry them before using them? Thanks!!
Looks like the perfect place to put down some pea gravel to cut down on mud and mud splash......but I am betting you don't have pea gravel out there? :-)
I just milled my first maple logs. They have awesome ambrosia striping. However now it looks like they are exiting the stacked wood and there’s little holes with fine white dust around the holes. Anything to stop this or is that just how it is? Also, when do you remove the bark? Is it necessary? I’m in pa if that means anything.
Matt, I agree concrete is permanent and expensive so I would form up a level slab as you would for concrete but fill it with fine tamped gravel. Gravel will drain well and changing the blocks for different sizes just requires re-screeding and maybe re-tamping. Have you thought of building a stradde buggy for moving slabs? Build a 4 leg frame like your sawmill only wider to straddle the saw table and use trailer wheels on swivels (two swivel wheels maybe) for the rough terrain. Tracks running out the back of your mill would let it roll easily. Would you be allowed to have a roof on your mill if it had wheels on it, then it wouldn't be a structure? You might consider never-seize on the bolts of your levelers. Good luck and thanks for the great videos. Greg B.
I have been watching your drying videos, and just to clarify....if you have been air drying this wood for several years, or has reached equilibrium with the environment, you still take it inside your basement to “finish it off” when you want to use a few pieces? Thank you so much for doing this, it really help guys like me out.
On your talking of insects not liking dry or drying wood, I have one time seen wood borer beetles coming out of hardwood flooring 1 1/2 yrs after it was installed. Pesky bastards!
Hey Matt. I have a greenhouse for gardening. assuming I use all of the same stacking and UV protections as in a solar kiln, and added enough fans for circulation, do you think it could serve a dual purpose to dry lumber as well?
You mentioned that 16 months and the wood would reach equilibrium, what moisture content is that? Do you use a meter at all? How do you know it reached equilibrium? Wanted to thank you for sharing all this knowledge. It seems that everything I want to experiment with you are in the process of doing or have done already. I find your channel as entertaining as it is informative. Keep up the good work.
Great content Matt! I hope someday soon I'll have the acreage and equipment to apply some of the knowledge bombs dropped here! If it all works I'll be sure to tell people that your tips "work as advertised". 😜😆
Hello Sir.. Thanks for information Need your suggestion on moisture meter Which model of pin less moisture meter is good to use if you can help me with make and model number.. Thank you sir
Does leveling the blocks really make a difference? Looking at the stack behind you, it looks like the blocks have sunk quite a bit under the weight of the slabs.
Great info! I was wondering what happens in the future with the slabs, as they've reached their ideal seasoning and pieces are taken out for use? If a slab is taken out the piece below would then have an increased exposure and the protection of the cap/trunk shape wouldn't be as effective.
+Chad Martin when they reach eq I'll move them indoors to get the moisture content down further before use or sale. If you wanted to keep them out there and remove slabs, you could put some sort of roof over it like a piece of metal roofing
It's great that you take the time to do it right. Imagine doing all of that work picking up the logs, milling them, and stacking, only to find two years or so later you've taken the long route to make a bunch of firewood. Also, you save yourself loads of time and effort finishing the pieces later. Most of my lumber goes through a planer after it's dry. It must be flat right off the stack, otherwise the planer (as any woodworker knows) will not do the job!
Hey matt, I read in my new tools and shop mag where you are in it describing stacking for air drying. In the article it has the stickers need to be 3/4 in. But it seems you use thinner stickers any reason on the use of thinner or thicker stickers?
One other question Matt- Also, my lot unfortunately doesn't have a single tree for shade, so I may cover the slab stacks with corrugated sheets and/or shade cloth. My question for you is how to tell when the slabs are drying to fast in order to take corrective measures real time. Is there a certain decline in moisture reading % over time I can use as a guideline?
Matt, I see that you are using ratchet straps. Are you using those in lieu of bricks or other weight since you have the slabs covered with the first cut?
Yes that was great content to make a start. So when it stops precipitating here I can start mapping out drying stations. Seems like my most original spot is great. Thank you.
I started a indoor dry in my insulated shop. So much moisture was released from the slabs it made the 1200sqft shop so humid! Bad idea for the first few months...
I transported 8 cedar slabs home from my friends mill on Vancouver Island. My Sprinter van ceiling was dripping in the morning. Glad to have them out of the van and in the garage drying. I'm sure I just raised the humidity of Alberta by 1% :-)
Seems pretty shady to me... I've got some oak and maple drying on my driveway right now. Some of those 8/4 10' boards are heavy when they're wet, so I can't imagine going really high with a stack. It would be a workout for sure getting those slabs in place.
Thanks for the video Matt. Very informative, should take notes. Appreciate the care you take in leveling the slabs, even cinching them down. The levelers are a clever gadget. Would be neat to copy your build and mill slabs for sale. There was an announcement in the paper the other day. A fungus has infected these humongous ficus trees here in town. They were planted in the fifties and the sixties. The trunks are 4 feet plus. I find myself wondering how they would look slabbed. They'll probably wind up as fire wood for the mayor, city council, and their friends. That's politics.
Years ago while living in East Texas I had several thousand board feet of my pine lumber cut on a friends portable sawmill to build a shop/storage building and a store/play area for my wife. I leveled treated 4X6's four feet apart on top of cement blocks which were leveled on the ground in the middle of one of our pastures. I stickered it and covered it with a bunch of old tin my Dad had laying around his place. Worked great but it was dimensional lumber not 10/4 slabs. I had knot free framing lumber and 1"X12" siding for the buildings.
I am really happy to see this Matt. Great information. I have been wondering about drying wood outside because I have so little space in garage for wood working much less storing wood. This gives me some great ideas for storing wood in my back yard and perhaps I can now visit an actual sawmill. Arkansas is insect Mecca particularly for fire ants and carpenter ants. The concrete blocks should help a great deal. Thanks so much for the information.
With my stacks I just started buying 2x4's and making a rectangle frame with cross members in it. This way if the stacks are on slanted ground it doesn't affect anything since the surface they're sitting on is flat. Time will tell if its a good method..
Matt
Very informative video, Great to hear your thoughts on the process
+Douglas Mungham thanks Douglas!
No problem the praise is well deserved
MORE PLEASE
Super helpful Matt, Thank you.
+frank howarth awesome! Thanks Frank!
Enjoyed this one. Good job!
thanks Greg!
Do you know if the Ash tree died from the Emerald Ash Borer??? I have looked at property to buy here in central Ohio and every property has dead ash trees or tree stumps caused by EAB.... Looking forward to see what you do with all those SLABS!!!!
+William Rittinger these ash trees died from humans. Eab hasn't taken hold around here yet. Soon though. Thanks!
Matthew Cremona I am confused I live Mpls and the emerald ash borer is here
11:11 Use your knees!
Have you ever tried carrying a concrete block between your knees? :)
I don't think he said crotch once!
+Charles Hanfman crap.
No but he did talk about being shady. Is Matt the new Slim Shady?
Matthew Cremona LOL, nice video Matt!
LOve all the slab climbing shots. you had a lot of fun with that!
It got a little sketchy at times
I was half expecting him to be standing in another location for each sentence. :)
Thanks Matt! Great video. If a fella had an carport like structure would it be an advantage to store the wood under a roof instead of outside? Or is it better for the lumber to get a little bit of the weather?
Carport is perfect. Anything will no walls will work great
Thanks!
Matt have you dealt with bore beetles with your slabs, if so, how do you get rid of them. I don't have a kiln and air dry European style as well.
Great explanation on your drying process! We do have some harsh winters up here I just wish it would permanently kill of the mosquitos!
How I would love that!
After just one minute. In the vid I can ready conclude that it is some shadey business
+Daan.Z.bloedjes 😂😂
I love it...subbed...I was bitten by the wood bug last summer after a derecho blew down two big elms in my immediate back yard.
It looks like I'll be recieving some elm, ash, maple, pine, and possibly some walnut logs from my neighbor in a few weeks or whenever all this snow melts...I've been processing some elm and pine into firewood but I plan on hand milling logs in the future...this video was helpful as I know very little about the process.
I dont think I'd trust those blocks sitting on the very sandy soil I have in nw illinois near the Mississippi so I'd be inclined to pour a concrete slab to build my stacks off of...I pour concrete for a living so I can do a 10ftx10ftx4in slab for around $150 and pretty much guarantee it will always be flat and level for decades at least...I'm sure you could do the same as you sound like you're at least somewhat familiar with the process.
Anyway, thanks for the vid!
You need to have more cuts where you end up in random places like on top of the stack, or next to it. And more random poses. And they should increase in frequency as the video progresses. And the poses should get more involved. And begin to involve props. And your delivery should remain deadpan throughout.
Otherwise, great video!
hahaha yes!! Next time for sure!
This...
You're fortunate with the insects. Here in the South, termites show up if you use the word "wood."
To answer your question - yes we do this thing all the time, specifically nowadays when there's nothing much on the telly (or at least no quality log drying shows) and we don't feel like riding our bicycle - again. You seem to get the hang of it though :)
Best from Amsterdam, Europe
Mic-:
haha! Thanks Mic!
I just think your "MC" logo is awesome! It's unique and a great idea!
You have used the concrete blocks improperly on your existing stack. You have the correct orientation on your new one.
Those blocks are not designed to be load bearing on their sides. I enjoy your videos. Very calming.
As long as you are using the wood for your own purposes, great. But your method of drying will produce lower quality lumber and potentially lumber infesting with wood boring beetles (or their former channels or beetle holes). You are giving WRONG information to people about this. Your videos are insightful but you need to do better research. Too many TH-camrs are creating video purely for content and advertising dollars with a lack of true industry experience. Love what you do. Just know that Minnesota absolutely suffers from wood borers too (even when drying). You need to research borax based insecticides which should be sprayed on every board after milling to prevent infestation of your lumber that is not kiln dried. Once you get beetles, you risk all your wood becoming a problem. They can live in your wood for years of continual growth cycles. And people should avoid air wood dried like this unless it has been through a few days of sterilizing in a kiln or at the very least properly treated for wood borers. Matt, people go to you for information, please make sure you are telling the full story. Try spending a few days with a local sawmill who does this professionally and involve them in a video. So you can share both your DIY experiences while not misleading people. Get a true expert to help you.
Your one of those guys that thinks you cant do anything unless you have a "expert" watching you at all times.
He's drying slabs for table tops. You act like he's committing a crime or something.
Great little trick with the wedge! And I have had some good luck with a product I get at one of the big box stores, it's called a No-Pest strip. They aren't too expensive so I buy a few and put them randomly in some voids or spaces although I have tarps over my stacks which I think keeps the smell or whatever it is the bugs don't like in the area better. Another great vid brother and you have some potential projects for years right there👍
Wonderful explanation.
thanks Greg!
I'm European, not a clue.
Many thanks, Matthew!, I have watched this video three times. I have a question, I receive as a gift two 8x1 tables of coigue wood, and I need to dry them, should I tie them up? or not? when do you decide to tie them and when not?. Many thanks from Valdivia, Chile.
Hi Matt; have enjoyed your videos for years but only just subscribed, sorry! I'm interested in your opinions with respect to outdoor lumber storage/drying in snowy areas? (NE New York, in my case) Do you think that additional protection is required? It WILL get snowed on during two years of drying, with up to 6-18 inches of snow lingering for weeks at a time...All my indoor storage options are filled with some happy maples, ashes, and walnuts! Any thoughts?
In any event - thanks for what you're doing here!
How do you stack those huge slabs? I have an 11 ft long by 60 inch diameter silver maple log to mill up and need to move them a couple hundred yards. Each 2.5 inch slab is pretty heavy. I have been putting off slabbing this beast due to having no good stacking & drying plan, but after this video I'm going to jump in. Thanks in advance.
Hey Matt, I live in northern MN in the Bemidji area. Just about to start milling myself. I'd love to visit your place sometime if that's possible. Thanks for the great video!
Hi Matt, I enjoy your channel. Being a builder for a long time I have a suggestion if you want it. Why not use a mason line with mason's corners to line up the blocks instead of the ladder. It will be faster because you will not have to keep moving the ladder and setting it up again. Give it a try. Thanks for your craftsmanship.
what moisture content do you consider "outdoor equilibrium"?
10-12% depends on location
I have a stack of silver maple that I had milled but I don't have shaded area to store it. My local mill suggested I cover it with tarp. My concern is it wouldn't have proper ventilation. What do you think.
Can you tell me the rational behind the straps. I'm dying a large walnut slab in Nebraska. Thanks for your video!
What about snow? I couldn't find this question answered in the comments and maybe it's because it's obvious by the fact that the stacks are uncovered. I get that rain will run off, but what about snow and ice which will just sit on top of the stack or freeze to the side of it giving water the opportunity to really soak in?
How many stacks did you lose to the silent killer before you started leveling the base?
+Steed's Wood Working I knew of the silent killer before I started stacking out here but I have grown more anal over the years on how well I establish a foundation
how long for drying br? if you make a simple plastic film arc top, it will get more sun power, it will shorten the cycle
This makes me want to get started logging my own wood. Although, I don't have the space to set up a large drying stack. Thanks for the inspiration Matt.
maybe some day :)
Don’t forget preserving the overall forest when those lumber dollar signs $$ in your eyes. Most trees we would want to cut usually take 100-200 years to grow that big. Looking back on history we need to temper our hunger for wood and wood products and align it to the regrowth rate of the woods. Once your trees are cut. You will never see trees that big on your property in your lifetime again if you decide to cut them all.
where do I find how you used the ladder for your chain saw mill ?
Please send the Title name or better yet a link.
Matt, thank you for the information.
I do have one question. Does not the process of decomposition start under the bark? What role does the bark play in maintaining quality lumber?
No, the sapwood doesn't rot under the bark. I just leave it on since it's less work and leaves more possibilities in the future. The bark can also help protect the live edge during handling. thanks!
Matthew Cremona thanks for the information
I have one more question
Can you leave the slabs outside as long as you want or can the wood get to old?
We have some slabs and they are inside for years now and they look like they are too old. Sounds crazy but they doesn't look like a normal slab. At some spots they start to look like the wood is getting soft.
What are these huge slabs of wood used for? I know some go for counter tops, but are there any more uses for them?
How much of the wood that you cut do you sell? Do you advertise to both collect and sell the wood?
Speaking of harsh winters, it is a joy to see you surrounded by greenery and standing on you milled logs. Some of your winter videos with blowing snow were brutal.
+peggyt1243 totally. I was watching one of those videos the other day and couldn't even remember how miserable it was. Must have been too traumatic to remember
Great explanation, information and demonstration! With all the log top shots, I thought you would end up on top of the house!
Thanks Mac! Pretty high up there :)
What I would give for.....one board. A bit jealous here.
Very Interesting! I learned a lot from this video! Thanks!!!
awesome! Thanks!
blocks are the wrong way ... LOL
blocks are stronger with the holes up
thank you the best techniek air drying.
Could you lay a tarp over the slabs to keep them dryer
I’m in the process of getting started studying all I can your videos really help. One question I have for you both economically and strength. Would using metal banding on your slabs holding them tight be of benefit?
The issue with banding is you can’t tighten it as the wood shrinks. The banding will get progressively looser
Stodoys plans is nice for that.
Matt - Does every species have a different drying time before you can actually use it in a project? You've cut most everything into slab form...any reason you haven't cut any 5/4 boards in any quantity? I realize you tend to cut your wood per project, but isn't one by material always needed in your shop? Any idea of how many 5/4 board feet are sitting out back?
How much wood could a woodchuck chuck if a woodchuck could chuck wood? Apparently none at Matt's, he's got it all tied down!
hahaha!
So awesome. I'm out in AZ and I lucked into a couple decent-sized mesquite branches (~4' L x ~8" D). They've been drying in the shop for over a year, and now I'm looking at bandsaws and dreaming about milling them into boards. How long should I leave them alone before I cut them into boards? After they're boards, how long should I dry them before using them? Thanks!!
Can you dry vertically?
Looks like the perfect place to put down some pea gravel to cut down on mud and mud splash......but I am betting you don't have pea gravel out there? :-)
I just milled my first maple logs. They have awesome ambrosia striping. However now it looks like they are exiting the stacked wood and there’s little holes with fine white dust around the holes. Anything to stop this or is that just how it is? Also, when do you remove the bark? Is it necessary? I’m in pa if that means anything.
Matt, I agree concrete is permanent and expensive so I would form up a level slab as you would for concrete but fill it with fine tamped gravel. Gravel will drain well and changing the blocks for different sizes just requires re-screeding and maybe re-tamping.
Have you thought of building a stradde buggy for moving slabs? Build a 4 leg frame like your sawmill only wider to straddle the saw table and use trailer wheels on swivels (two swivel wheels maybe) for the rough terrain. Tracks running out the back of your mill would let it roll easily.
Would you be allowed to have a roof on your mill if it had wheels on it, then it wouldn't be a structure?
You might consider never-seize on the bolts of your levelers. Good luck and thanks for the great videos. Greg B.
I have been watching your drying videos, and just to clarify....if you have been air drying this wood for several years, or has reached equilibrium with the environment, you still take it inside your basement to “finish it off” when you want to use a few pieces? Thank you so much for doing this, it really help guys like me out.
On your talking of insects not liking dry or drying wood, I have one time seen wood borer beetles coming out of hardwood flooring 1 1/2 yrs after it was installed. Pesky bastards!
Very cool Matt. I am about to mill up a log of ash i will video it and dedicate it to you buddy. I hope i do you proud...lol.
Hey Matt. I have a greenhouse for gardening. assuming I use all of the same stacking and UV protections as in a solar kiln, and added enough fans for circulation, do you think it could serve a dual purpose to dry lumber as well?
You mentioned that 16 months and the wood would reach equilibrium, what moisture content is that? Do you use a meter at all? How do you know it reached equilibrium? Wanted to thank you for sharing all this knowledge. It seems that everything I want to experiment with you are in the process of doing or have done already. I find your channel as entertaining as it is informative. Keep up the good work.
Great content Matt! I hope someday soon I'll have the acreage and equipment to apply some of the knowledge bombs dropped here!
If it all works I'll be sure to tell people that your tips "work as advertised". 😜😆
Hello Sir..
Thanks for information
Need your suggestion on moisture meter Which model of pin less moisture meter is good to use if you can help me with make and model number.. Thank you sir
If you have an issue with insecticide covering the stack with gardening fleece shouldn't cause any problems
Does leveling the blocks really make a difference? Looking at the stack behind you, it looks like the blocks have sunk quite a bit under the weight of the slabs.
Awesome job! Don't forget, a simple solution to prevent mold and fungi is good old borax (1:1 with water) coated on each side of the board...
Great info! I was wondering what happens in the future with the slabs, as they've reached their ideal seasoning and pieces are taken out for use? If a slab is taken out the piece below would then have an increased exposure and the protection of the cap/trunk shape wouldn't be as effective.
+Chad Martin when they reach eq I'll move them indoors to get the moisture content down further before use or sale. If you wanted to keep them out there and remove slabs, you could put some sort of roof over it like a piece of metal roofing
Matthew Cremona So in about 16-18 months I assume we'll be seeing a lot of videos of you moving a ton of wood indoors?
Luv this channel. Always entertaining, and always informative. Thanks, and keep it going!
It's great that you take the time to do it right. Imagine doing all of that work picking up the logs, milling them, and stacking, only to find two years or so later you've taken the long route to make a bunch of firewood. Also, you save yourself loads of time and effort finishing the pieces later. Most of my lumber goes through a planer after it's dry. It must be flat right off the stack, otherwise the planer (as any woodworker knows) will not do the job!
I don't think you said "crotch" in this video. A video from MC without the word "crotch" ??? That must be a first !! lol
*Carpenter Bees have entered the chat*
Great video, love the huge logs!
Hey matt, I read in my new tools and shop mag where you are in it describing stacking for air drying. In the article it has the stickers need to be 3/4 in. But it seems you use thinner stickers any reason on the use of thinner or thicker stickers?
Thanks for the lessons. Can you use dried western red cedar for stickers on 8/4 burr oak slabs?
One other question Matt- Also, my lot unfortunately doesn't have a single tree for shade, so I may cover the slab stacks with corrugated sheets and/or shade cloth. My question for you is how to tell when the slabs are drying to fast in order to take corrective measures real time. Is there a certain decline in moisture reading % over time I can use as a guideline?
Hi Matt ... I have this question .. how long does it take
for 1 1/2 walnut board to be dried or ready to use ?
Matt, I've seen many a stack with corrugated metal as a roof. Have you considered that?
Matt, I see that you are using ratchet straps. Are you using those in lieu of bricks or other weight since you have the slabs covered with the first cut?
Do you think it would be better to keep the stacks perfectly horizontal or at a slight angle while keeping a flat base? Just curious for water run-off
Yes that was great content to make a start. So when it stops precipitating here I can start mapping out drying stations. Seems like my most original spot is great. Thank you.
Thank you for sharing this! How does one know a plank is fully cured? What signs do we look out for?
Interesting stuff. I learned a few things.
+Bruce A. Ulrich good to hear :)
Would 2 rows of half block work also which seems a little stonger
Good info and I really enjoyed the edit.
+Dan The Maker Man thanks Dan!
How's that big oak cookie you got a few months back doing?
Do you ever have the one of the blocks sink down or shift after some time?
Matt, what is "Outdoor Equilibrium" ?
awesome vid, love all the wood. How does the wife feel about all the logs all over the home?
Your presentation is very helpful! Thank you!!!
Hey Matt, at what MC % would you say they are ready to be moved indoors?
Thank you for covering insects. Exactly what I was looking for. Having some issues of bugs putting holes in my freshly milled logs
I started a indoor dry in my insulated shop. So much moisture was released from the slabs it made the 1200sqft shop so humid! Bad idea for the first few months...
+David Iliyn yeah that initial dump of the free water is crazy
why not use a dehumidifier or better provide some airflow from and to outside in the months that do not have to much of a temperature difference?
I transported 8 cedar slabs home from my friends mill on Vancouver Island. My Sprinter van ceiling was dripping in the morning. Glad to have them out of the van and in the garage drying. I'm sure I just raised the humidity of Alberta by 1% :-)
Seems pretty shady to me...
I've got some oak and maple drying on my driveway right now. Some of those 8/4 10' boards are heavy when they're wet, so I can't imagine going really high with a stack. It would be a workout for sure getting those slabs in place.
hahaha! Yeah it's definitely a two person or log trailer job to get them stacked
The blocks are stronger with the cells vertical.
Thanks for the info Matt. Just bought myself a Wood-Mizer and have started milling. Your tips and the trailer setup have been helping me immensely!
+Vikingblooded Kraftwerks awesome to hear! Thanks!!
This is a great video, I was trying to decide between this style and a drying shed. Thanks, air drying it is😊
Thanks for the video Matt. Very informative, should take notes. Appreciate the care you take in leveling the slabs, even cinching them down. The levelers are a clever gadget. Would be neat to copy your build and mill slabs for sale. There was an announcement in the paper the other day. A fungus has infected these humongous ficus trees here in town. They were planted in the fifties and the sixties. The trunks are 4 feet plus. I find myself wondering how they would look slabbed. They'll probably wind up as fire wood for the mayor, city council, and their friends. That's politics.
+Dana Nelson just took a look at some pictures online and it looks like beautiful wood. I hope you'll maybe decide to pursue that :)
Ty needed this video 😁👍👍👍👍👍👍
If you want to grow grass/plants in that area, cut the 'shade' into lumber!
Thanks for the video.
....13
:D Good point!
I always thought the general rule of thumb was 1 year per inch of thickness? I was surprised to hear 16 months for 10/4 stock. Great job here Matt.
+Dave Pruitt rarely is it actually true. Mostly represents worse case drying scenarios like putting this stack in a garage with no air flow. Thanks!