Dude ur a legend I was never able to afford a 3D printer but I was able to follow this amazing tutorial and use some 3D printed bits from the library but mostly scrap
@6:12: To improve the build experience a bit, you could borrow some design elements from nophead/Prusa MK3/4/Bear X-axis ends: - Chamfer the edge where the Z rod is inserted - Expand the hole a bit where the rod bottoms out for clearance/imperfect print quality - Add an inspection port for users to check that rods are fully inserted - Add a small through-hole to help with removing/replacing rods
Where can I get the Fabreeko STL's? I want to use heatset inserts and I think the Fabreeko kit uses them. I want to start printing and when I have enough $$, I can buy the kit.
This is the best cheap DIY printer I have seen for a while now my only disapproval was because of the small build size I was thinking to go for 200 x 200 x 200mm's and to replace the linear rod for 12mm ones and maybe to add some sort of auto bed leveling like clicky probe but apart from that it's a great kit on its own.
Ive typically make use of a nozzle located on printables.. I found it threads directly on the superlube tube and has 4 channels to line up with the bearing maybe something to give a try ;)
there is no hole at the bottom to see if the rod is all the way in. Also you need the feet on so you can tap the rods in, otherwise the z motor mount is in the way
the Fabreeko Kit works with the MK1.1 parts, no update needed. However you do need to mount the power supply on the side of the fame as the Rook MK frame has no space for the fabreeko PSU
it should be possible to modyfi the top and bottom ftames to idiotproof it my duplicating z movement hardware on each side with core xy you shouln't even care if x and y posiions would be rotated 90 degree to the bed if the frame is square, but makig it rectangular ould also prevent 90 gegree rotations and at this point you don't care where front and back are what do you think about idiotoofing the kit idea>?
where did you get your rods and bearings? i'm not building a rook, it's a printer of my own and the rods and bearing i ordered have a noticeable amount of play.
I buy whatever is on amazon usually however I do recommend fushi bearings on aliexpress. The bearings must be cleaned out and then heavily greased. Also you want to use long 45mm LM8LUU bearings
A guy so relatable he messed up part of the build on a printer he designed himself
yep, part of building, even for me
Great video! Thanks for the shoutout, I'll add a link to this in my video 🥰
Dude ur a legend I was never able to afford a 3D printer but I was able to follow this amazing tutorial and use some 3D printed bits from the library but mostly scrap
Glad I could help!
My Fabreeko kit arrived the other day. I look forward to this build. Will be watching out for the rest of this series. Thanks!
awesome, very excited to watch your build! Hopefully Charlie will like it!
@6:12: To improve the build experience a bit, you could borrow some design elements from nophead/Prusa MK3/4/Bear X-axis ends:
- Chamfer the edge where the Z rod is inserted
- Expand the hole a bit where the rod bottoms out for clearance/imperfect print quality
- Add an inspection port for users to check that rods are fully inserted
- Add a small through-hole to help with removing/replacing rods
Where can I get the Fabreeko STL's? I want to use heatset inserts and I think the Fabreeko kit uses them. I want to start printing and when I have enough $$, I can buy the kit.
I added that to the description, thanks for the reminder
This is the best cheap DIY printer I have seen for a while now my only disapproval was because of the small build size I was thinking to go for 200 x 200 x 200mm's and to replace the linear rod for 12mm ones and maybe to add some sort of auto bed leveling like clicky probe but apart from that it's a great kit on its own.
There are users on my discord building larger ones
I've been considering building a Rook. Thanks for the video!
Very cool! Very knowledgeable and very descriptive! Thanks for sharing!
Awesome colour scheme!
Ive typically make use of a nozzle located on printables.. I found it threads directly on the superlube tube and has 4 channels to line up with the bearing maybe something to give a try ;)
when will the 1.1 parts come out and is there more than the ones you showed in the video
I hope this week, there are smaller Y carriages
if you put the rods before you put the legs then you can make sure it go all the way in
there is no hole at the bottom to see if the rod is all the way in. Also you need the feet on so you can tap the rods in, otherwise the z motor mount is in the way
@@Rolohaun sorry im using the Fabreeko frame and its get the hole
@@nmavor oh yes with the fabreeko frame
Thanks for doing this series! Out of curiosity, do you happen to know if Fabreeko will be updating their parts with any of the MK1.1 updates in mind?
the Fabreeko Kit works with the MK1.1 parts, no update needed. However you do need to mount the power supply on the side of the fame as the Rook MK frame has no space for the fabreeko PSU
it should be possible to modyfi the top and bottom ftames to idiotproof it my duplicating z movement hardware on each side with core xy you shouln't even care if x and y posiions would be rotated 90 degree to the bed if the frame is square, but makig it rectangular ould also prevent 90 gegree rotations and at this point you don't care where front and back are
what do you think about idiotoofing the kit idea>?
there might be some design changed in the future to help with this, for now the printer is done
where did you get your rods and bearings? i'm not building a rook, it's a printer of my own and the rods and bearing i ordered have a noticeable amount of play.
I buy whatever is on amazon usually however I do recommend fushi bearings on aliexpress. The bearings must be cleaned out and then heavily greased. Also you want to use long 45mm LM8LUU bearings
@@Rolohaun great thanks, and what rods do you use?
Nice :)
do you make it out of abs/asa or pla
PLA, some have printed out of ABS / ASA though
Do yo play chess
no, the frame kinda just looked like a Rook so I picked that name