@ArnieGoodman-y5p some people think I am crazy because I rarely go above ISO 1600 and many times I am at ISO 1250. ISO-invariant sensors have eliminated a lot of the need for extremely high ISO's. It's not unusual for me to under expose by 3 or more stops in extremely dark venues and bring the shot back in Camera Raw. Almost zero noise penalty. Thanks for watching! -R
Hi @hanumanguy! Both the cameras I am using now have massive file sizes, somewhere around 80mb a shot. I keep my cameras in continuous low just in case I need to rip off a small burst. Even when I was using the Nikon D7100 it's buffer was really bad and would give out at about 2 or 3 shots. I do use higher performance cards and that helps. So the advertised 6 frames a second I put in the class of IHBL. If hit by lightening! Thanks for watching -R
@hanumanguy I am very selective of the shots I take. I will sit and wait until I get the shot I am looking for. I see a lot of microphone meatball artist. and mic stands in bad positions. When I do get what I want I'll let it rip a bit :) -R
Hello from the UK. You are a truly amazing photographer and I have just subscribed. I also absolutely love doing live music photography but as an amateur, who only owns 2 fixed lens more basic cameras compared to what you use. Please could you kindly advise the best settings (without using a flash) for indoor dodgy/changing stage lighting at night? I own an old Fuji Finepix HS50 and a Fujifilm X-T100 which are basic but good cameras. I am a bit of a technophobe so would not attempt trying to use the Raw setting. I mainly photograph very fast moving 50s rockabilly/rock 'n' roll bands with 800/100 setting and always use a flash but need to learn how not to. Many thanks in advance for any advise you may offer.
Thanks for writing! Normal rules of thumb would be to set your shutter speed at or above the focal length you are using. Example if you are shooting at 200mm your shutter speed should be at least 1/200th of a second. This is to reduce or eliminate blur. The HS50 I believe can digital zoom to 1000mm. I would stay away from digital zooming and use as much optical as available on that camera. Stay around 200mm. FStop you could try wide open and adjust from there. I normally set my ISO at 1600 but you may need a little more. Do not be afraid of shooting in RAW. It virtual reacts the same only better. You just have a lot more control when it comes to editing. Thanks for watching! -R
You had your camera on manual as you said ... But did you have the iso set to auto or were you adjusting it manually as well? I'm shooting a friend of mine's band Fri the 30 to kick off the fourth of July weekend he starts at 7 pm so there's going to be changing light and I was thinking of shooting manual with auto iso.. any advice
Great shooting, great choice of shots and great music taste. Shame you’r not a Canon shooter! Still, we can’t have everything! Love that accent of yours by the way.
Thank you and Thank you. We do use some Canon devices around the studio and we do have one Canon camera. We also have Panasonic/Leica and Sony. I am looking into Canon cameras for when and if the time comes that we change to mirrorless completely. The cost of the Canon cameras looks to be so much better for what you get. Texas music is amazing. The variety is wide and there is a lot of it. I was a rock big arena guy for a long time and it's not what it once was. -R
Hi pemitaki! Great question! What you see in the video is a combination of settings to achieve the result. There is a wide variety of combinations. BUT combine this video with these couple of videos it will show it is not only the settings but also the scouting and preparations that complete everything. There is not one set of concert photography setting to fit all situations. Please take a look at these videos! th-cam.com/video/aCEbJ1i4ho4/w-d-xo.html and th-cam.com/video/-zv4EsecnAg/w-d-xo.html . Sometimes you can not scout the venue but arriving early can give an advantage and let you look around. Thanks for watching! -R
You had your camera on manual as you said ... But did you have the iso set to auto or were you adjusting it manually as well? I'm shooting a friend of mine's band Fri the 30 to kick off the fourth of July weekend he starts at 7 pm so there's going to be changing light and I was thinking of shooting manual with auto iso.. any advice
Hi Michael, I always set my ISO manually as well. I adjust it on the fly by taking the first shot as an educated guess and adjust up or down from my estimate. Dark shows I start usually with 1600 ISO and adjust downward if needed. I have never needed to go above 1600. During midday daylight I start with 200 ISO if the artist is moving normally or slowly and go up if they are moving quickly so that I can boost shutter speed. With changing light I would use spot metering and meter of the faces. Evening light can be tough due to direction. The first 2 shot scenarios of Robert Miller and Ally Venable were shot in summer. Robert at sundown and Ally after the sun went down. I would look at those to examples. The only automatic setting I use is auto white balance. I could set it also manually at 5000k but I just leave it on auto and adjust in post if needed. Thanks Michael for the question--- Robert
Thanks. Appreciate the discussion, especially regarding when and why you used different metering modes.
Hi jpsteiner2! That video was one of my early ones. Seems like so long ago. Thank you! and thanks for watching! -R
With what you can do with high iso has changed the game -Arnie Goodman Photography
@ArnieGoodman-y5p some people think I am crazy because I rarely go above ISO 1600 and many times I am at ISO 1250. ISO-invariant sensors have eliminated a lot of the need for extremely high ISO's. It's not unusual for me to under expose by 3 or more stops in extremely dark venues and bring the shot back in Camera Raw. Almost zero noise penalty. Thanks for watching! -R
I got lots of help ❤
Thank you for the feedback and thanks for watching! -R
That’s Incredibly Awesome! Cheers!🥂❤️✨
Thank you! I see a lot of videos that are vague.
Thanks Max, this is really helpful. Do you have any recommendations on burst mode? Do you use it and how many frames per seconds is ideal?
Hi @hanumanguy! Both the cameras I am using now have massive file sizes, somewhere around 80mb a shot. I keep my cameras in continuous low just in case I need to rip off a small burst. Even when I was using the Nikon D7100 it's buffer was really bad and would give out at about 2 or 3 shots. I do use higher performance cards and that helps. So the advertised 6 frames a second I put in the class of IHBL. If hit by lightening! Thanks for watching -R
@@robertc.maxfieldiiphotography Thanks Robert. So sounds like you use burst sparingly.
@hanumanguy I am very selective of the shots I take. I will sit and wait until I get the shot I am looking for. I see a lot of microphone meatball artist. and mic stands in bad positions. When I do get what I want I'll let it rip a bit :) -R
@@robertc.maxfieldiiphotography brilliant. Thanks.
Hello from the UK. You are a truly amazing photographer and I have just subscribed. I also absolutely love doing live music photography but as an amateur, who only owns 2 fixed lens more basic cameras compared to what you use. Please could you kindly advise the best settings (without using a flash) for indoor dodgy/changing stage lighting at night? I own an old Fuji Finepix HS50 and a Fujifilm X-T100 which are basic but good cameras. I am a bit of a technophobe so would not attempt trying to use the Raw setting. I mainly photograph very fast moving 50s rockabilly/rock 'n' roll bands with 800/100 setting and always use a flash but need to learn how not to. Many thanks in advance for any advise you may offer.
Thanks for writing! Normal rules of thumb would be to set your shutter speed at or above the focal length you are using. Example if you are shooting at 200mm your shutter speed should be at least 1/200th of a second. This is to reduce or eliminate blur. The HS50 I believe can digital zoom to 1000mm. I would stay away from digital zooming and use as much optical as available on that camera. Stay around 200mm. FStop you could try wide open and adjust from there. I normally set my ISO at 1600 but you may need a little more. Do not be afraid of shooting in RAW. It virtual reacts the same only better. You just have a lot more control when it comes to editing. Thanks for watching! -R
You had your camera on manual as you said ... But did you have the iso set to auto or were you adjusting it manually as well? I'm shooting a friend of mine's band Fri the 30 to kick off the fourth of July weekend he starts at 7 pm so there's going to be changing light and I was thinking of shooting manual with auto iso.. any advice
Great shooting, great choice of shots and great music taste.
Shame you’r not a Canon shooter!
Still, we can’t have everything!
Love that accent of yours by the way.
Thank you and Thank you. We do use some Canon devices around the studio and we do have one Canon camera. We also have Panasonic/Leica and Sony. I am looking into Canon cameras for when and if the time comes that we change to mirrorless completely. The cost of the Canon cameras looks to be so much better for what you get. Texas music is amazing. The variety is wide and there is a lot of it. I was a rock big arena guy for a long time and it's not what it once was. -R
And what do we learn from this? Every location has different requirements: different lighting, musicians, etc.
Hi pemitaki! Great question! What you see in the video is a combination of settings to achieve the result. There is a wide variety of combinations. BUT combine this video with these couple of videos it will show it is not only the settings but also the scouting and preparations that complete everything. There is not one set of concert photography setting to fit all situations. Please take a look at these videos! th-cam.com/video/aCEbJ1i4ho4/w-d-xo.html and th-cam.com/video/-zv4EsecnAg/w-d-xo.html . Sometimes you can not scout the venue but arriving early can give an advantage and let you look around. Thanks for watching! -R
You had your camera on manual as you said ... But did you have the iso set to auto or were you adjusting it manually as well? I'm shooting a friend of mine's band Fri the 30 to kick off the fourth of July weekend he starts at 7 pm so there's going to be changing light and I was thinking of shooting manual with auto iso.. any advice
Hi Michael, I always set my ISO manually as well. I adjust it on the fly by taking the first shot as an educated guess and adjust up or down from my estimate. Dark shows I start usually with 1600 ISO and adjust downward if needed. I have never needed to go above 1600. During midday daylight I start with 200 ISO if the artist is moving normally or slowly and go up if they are moving quickly so that I can boost shutter speed. With changing light I would use spot metering and meter of the faces. Evening light can be tough due to direction. The first 2 shot scenarios of Robert Miller and Ally Venable were shot in summer. Robert at sundown and Ally after the sun went down. I would look at those to examples. The only automatic setting I use is auto white balance. I could set it also manually at 5000k but I just leave it on auto and adjust in post if needed. Thanks Michael for the question--- Robert