Hey Jimmy and everybody else, maybe the reason it was "off the scale" (talking about the plastic needle inside the tester filled with coolant) is because it had BUBBLES attached to it. Thanks to your high resolution camera I was able to see them. Tiny bubble form as you suck up the coolant and get attached to the needle causing it to rise more than it should. You need to tap the tester several times until all the bubbles get detached!
An engine cooling system consists of cast iron, steel, aluminum, and in some cases, copper. When these metals are submerged in water, electrolysis occurs, basically making a weak battery. The electrolysis is what attacks the metal in the cooling system causing rust and corrosion to occur. The ability to prevent electrolysis and corrosion are some of the first properties lost by the coolant as it ages. Just because the coolant tests well enough to prevent freezing or boiling does not mean that it is still working as a corrosion inhibitor. Different antifreezes have different life spans. Always flush and replace the coolant according to the manufacturer stated coolant life, regardless of how it tests.
Heads up people be careful if you're useing the smaller bubble style with the small clear tubeing you may lose that clear tubeing in your radiator/coolant system . Mine fell off and was never able to recover the part. Just thought I'd share my experience. Be safe out there my fellow garage warriors ( SAFTY KEY AND COMMEN SENSE IS KEY )
Freeze/boiling protection isn't the only thing to worry about with old coolant. Part of the additive package is to prevent electrolysis where you can have electricity running through the cooling system and cause corrosion and break down of metal. Especially when you look at all the dissimilar metals the coolant touches, without those additives, you've made a battery. A good way to test it is to take a DVOM, put the pos lead on the pos batt cable, and the neg lead in the coolant. If you register any voltage reading, time to change the coolant out. And this is on top of lubrication properties that dwindle as well.
Thanks for posting! A couple observations.....when performing a drain & flush (not a drain and fill), using the concentrate is not only cheaper, but in my eyes a must to acheive a balanced system. The key is knowing the full capacity of your cooling system before adding the new concentrate. So after the system is clear of the old coolant, do a final flush with distilled water (I prefer doing this twice). Then button up the cooling system and add 1/2 of whatever your system holds with the new concentrate. Example, system capacity is 14 qts, add 7 of the concentrate, then top off with distilled water. This gets you very close to the desired 50/50 mix. The other thing about over concentrating your coolant mix, is this can actually hinder the cooling system efficiency and for those of us that live in hotter environments like the southwest desert, that could become a big deal. Coolant is not as efficient at cooling as water. This is less of an issue in the cooler environments.
Love the channel..mine was losing fluid...no leaks..but found out my Reservoir cap was bad..$14 later...its refilling after cooling..thank lord..used this vid to and others for help
convenience charge lol. Sometimes you're on the road and just need something to dump in there and you're not worried about a few extra bucks. Then there's just the lazy ones lol. I'm guilty of being both of those people.
Just do a drop and refill of antifreeze every 2 years and change water pump, thermostat and hoses every 5 years or 100K is what I have done. And never have had a failed radiator, water pump or heater core in 34 years of driving. About 1.2 million miles during that time. Never an overheat issue. $50 in fluid and 1 hour every 2 years and $200 every 5 years and 3-4 hours labor in my home shop. Good maintenance is the key. Not taking away from your video but I have never bought one of those testers. Spend the money on new antifreeze. When I get a new car to me, I change all fluids...100% all fluids. Even the window fluid. Brakes, diffs, trans, transfer, steering, cooling, oil, A/C refrig and compressor oil. $300 early saves thousands later.
I like to any time I buy a used car to flush the coolant, spill and fill trans fluid, change oil and diff/trans case fluid if they have them. Nothing like a fresh start so you know when it needs done again next.
With Dexcool, Flush every two years. Dexcool is great but if air gets in the system, the famous Dexcool sludge will appear. I had to replace the radiator and overflow tank due to the sludge. Clogged up the heater core too but luckily I could salvage it. I still use Dexcool but flush every two years no matter what.Two gallons of Dexcool is WAY cheaper than a radiator and overflow tank.
Thanks, have never checked the Fluids with the tool you are using. Seen it a million time had never used it! With your excellent information sharing, I will get one and start checking my older car/ Suburban. Really enjoy your videos!!
Those testers are horendously inaccurate. They usually err on the safe side. To test the coolant accuratly you can purchase a refractory tester from amazon.
Sorry to be the barer of bad news Jimmy but you are wrong. It is not good for your coolant to be over concentrated and by you tester yours is way over. Anti-freeze is not as good of a coolant (heat transfer agent) as water and it has a higher viscosity. Anti-freeze is to keep your coolant from freezing and it has anti corrosive additives plus water pump lubricant. Being over concentrated will make your engine run warmer to the point of not being able to run cool enough at all in the summer in a traffic jam. If you live near LA you should be at 50/50 concentration and no more because it doesn't get that cold there. Even in Alaska or Maine you should never be over 70% AF/30% water. You need to drain all your fluid out, get it down to the temp range for 50/50 mix and put it back in. I saw you refill your radiator in a previous video were you poured in pure anti freeze and then water. Big mistake. Always mix anti-freeze and water to the correct ratio before pouring into the radiatoror topping off the overflow tank. You are far from the first person to make this mistake but it IS A MISTAKE. Also, there is another way to check your anti-freeze... by it's electrical resistance. There are TH-cam's on it. I prefer the little gadget you have, mines about 30 years old and it is my second one.
I remember a long time ago reading that you don't want to over concentrate with antifreeze because at a certain point your engine will start to actually run hotter than using the recommended 50/50 mux.
You do not want to be over concentrated. If you have too much coolant to water your coolant will freeze easier and boil easier than if it was properly mixed 50/50. You can also check coolant with VOM. It is not just about color, boiling point and freeze protection! Cheers!
Somebody told me that "...NOBOBY puts water in my radiator". He used only straight coolant and towed a 37 ft fifth wheel. Never had any troubles going to, from and around Arizona for at least 20 years...
@@fredflintstone4715 That somebody probably was not aware of that they were already buying pre-mixed coolant that had a 50/50 ratio straight out of the bottle.
Boat question but same issues. On closed cooling stern drive boats if you put to much concentrated antifreeze in will it overheat? All passages are clean new pump risers manifolds but temp is 170 this year intead of 160. Stat is new too. 80 ocean. That`s the only thing i can think of. Also guage and sensor new too.
I could never got my prestone antifreeze tester to work. The tester is sitting somewhere in my tool box. On my Caterpillar they make a product to renew the antifreeze coolant.
Sorry if this has been asked already, but I doubt it has because I can't find the info anywhere. I'd like to test my coolant, but I'm finding it difficult to understand why everybody is checking the fluid not from the radiator itself, but from the reservoir. From my understanding from what I have read, the expansion reservoir does not actually circulate coolant through the system, it only acts as to 1.) not allow overflow from spilling onto the ground, 2.) does not allow air to enter the system, and 3.) maintains 100% fill in the system if there is a leak, or other issues, such as burn off, or whatever. If what I'm reading is correct, the only time the liquid in the overflow tank could actually be sucked into the system is possible during the expanding / contracting process, or if there is a leak / burn off of the liquid within the circulatory system. So, if people are checking the reservoir for proper concentration of the liquid within the system, isn't that completely incorrect? Please learn me here... I'm dumbfounded and probably wrong.
Okay, so this video told me that tool is useless, and I don't have to bother getting one. Thanks. But yeah, I agree with replacing coolant as per manufacturer's recommended intervals. Also if it doesn't pass a visual test = replace. Dark colour, brown or just plain tap water. The tap water thing is not uncommon in areas where temperature doesn't drop below freezing. Also antoger thing I noticed sometimes coolant smells bad or what ever is in the radiator, then also flush and replace.
Saw your video because I need to buy a new tester. Just want to mention that Dex-Cool can be problematic if it's not regularly maintained. I do mine every 2 years. If you leave it in there too long it becomes acidic and starts eating your head gaskets. Also it is not a good idea to mix it at higher concentrations than 50/50 for the same reason. Unless you live in eskimo land and it's really damned cold, 50/50 is good to -34 F So you have a 1995? That's when DexCool started. I have a 2003 and long for the days of the green stuff. Also don't ever mix green & orange, or start using green in a DexCool vehicle. Your cooling system and engine will become something like sludgy brown _ hit.
The antifreeze tester looks really inaccurate. Just testing the density of the liquid doesn't give much information. Heck, even the boiling points given by it are misleading as different impurities change the boiling point by different amounts.
The Jiffy lube I used to work at I did a lot of coolant flushes. The coolant flush machine gets 100% of the old coolant out and adds brand new coolant. The coolant flush machine is connected by disconnecting the upper radiator hose when vehicle is cool enough to not have a stiff hot upper radiator hose. Then connected to the hose with a fitting and the radiator. Then there is small suction hose to suck the old coolant out of the reservoir. Then the machine has the proper anti freeze/coolant and water mix of the correct antifreeze and amount to fill the coolant system of the specific type of vehicle. Then the vehicle is started and allowed to run until the new coolant is pumped in and the old coolant is pumped out, which simultaneously! Then the reservoir and radiator are top off with coolant once machine is disconnected and the upper radiator hose is reconnected. This ensures a 100% antifreeze coolant replacement with new coolant. The starting cost when I worked at Jiffy Lube was $49.99 plus tax. Prices may vary depending on the oil change place and type and amount of coolant also.
Sounds good, but then you have to put the trust in Jiffy Lube employees to actually be competent enough to do their job correctly. And since the 1 time I went there they started my car without any oil I’ll never go back again.
@sneakypete187I've had two 95 c1500's both had green antifreeze too and I'm not going to bother trying to convince him. Like the antifreeze video he just posted I could tell him that too much antifreeze to water actually doesn't mean more protection but actually can cause overheating but I'm sure he will figure it out. The 95 I drive now has over 140k and has been a very reliable vehicle with inexpensive parts and easy diy repairs. I admit like 1road my good intentions in improvements for my truck have sometimes backfired but I had to learn for myself, lol...
My truck is about at 146k and it's my second 95 Silverado. I have to agree the glycol cannot transfer as much heat as water will and it's counterintuitive at concentrations over 50%. With a stock tune I switched to a 180° thermostat which is slightly less fuel efficient than the 195° stock. But the engine temperature now stays in a area that I'm now comfortable with some wiggle room for Texas heat. Have you looked into datalogging or using a OBD1 adapter to view engine stats in realtime or get a base profile to compare to for diagnostics? Like 1Road I sometimes get into unexpected expenses trying to "maintain" my truck, but sometimes been surprised like finding my timing was slightly off and adjusting it to 0° and having a better idle.
im running almost 70 percent antifreeze in mine same engine only 89 my book says 56/44 mix i thought was odd. as far as temperature im at 200-205 unless ac is on idling then it gets to 210-212 which i hear is normal
i have same tester not sure if i trust it says straight water freezing at 0 degrees unless im reading wrong and my antifreeze in my truck reads same as yours
Are you ok with being overconcentrated? Well, I topped up the concentrated coolant, and guess what, the engine is overheating. Tomorrow I will add the distilled water into the rad.. By the way, when you suck the coolant into the tester, you have to tap the tester's body to make sure that there are no air bubbles. It even says that on the instructions
Make sure your radiator is grounded. Since the coolant conducts electricity stray voltage will travel through it to find a ground. And because aluminum is the softest metal in the system it is the most vulnerable to damage. To prevent this from happening make sure the engine and frame are properly grounded to the battery. I added a ground from the battery to the radiator. You get electrolysis when you have a potential difference and a bad pathway to ground in your cooling system. The radiator sits on rubber grommets which isolates it from the chassis. If you have current in your coolant then you will be conducting electricity through the radiator. You want the current to go to a ground somewhere else. Some people will disagree but adding a ground to the radiator cannot hurt or cause damage. If anything, it adds another ground to the front of the vehicle.
Maybe if they worked you could test it huh? Bought it on Amazon the coolant won't even go up to the fill line so I got a replacement that's also a dud smh... You're going to test your coolant get something else
Not to be mean but I would not waste my money on them that antifreeze tester they're not right and I spent money on more expensive ones they're not worth your money,. When I was growing up my dad use one type of antifreeze tester and battery tester and I still use the same Style today and I never had no problems with any my vehicles and did not matter how cold or hot my temperature was just perfect
Here's the tester I used in the video: amzn.to/2ZIIRAJ
does it really test how much cold and heat the antifreeze can withstand or does it only measure how much antifreeze you have ??
does it really test how much cold and heat the antifreeze can withstand or does it only measure how much antifreeze you have ??
Hey Jimmy and everybody else, maybe the reason it was "off the scale" (talking about the plastic needle inside the tester filled with coolant) is because it had BUBBLES attached to it. Thanks to your high resolution camera I was able to see them. Tiny bubble form as you suck up the coolant and get attached to the needle causing it to rise more than it should. You need to tap the tester several times until all the bubbles get detached!
An engine cooling system consists of cast iron, steel, aluminum, and in some cases, copper. When these metals are submerged in water, electrolysis occurs, basically making a weak battery. The electrolysis is what attacks the metal in the cooling system causing rust and corrosion to occur. The ability to prevent electrolysis and corrosion are some of the first properties lost by the coolant as it ages. Just because the coolant tests well enough to prevent freezing or boiling does not mean that it is still working as a corrosion inhibitor. Different antifreezes have different life spans. Always flush and replace the coolant according to the manufacturer stated coolant life, regardless of how it tests.
This 💯 accurate…. This device claimed my coolant is still perfect… my multi meter test said otherwise.
KEEP THE OLD BURBAN VIDEO'S COMING !!!! Love them and I have been fixing my '93 along with you.
Heads up people be careful if you're useing the smaller bubble style with the small clear tubeing you may lose that clear tubeing in your radiator/coolant system . Mine fell off and was never able to recover the part. Just thought I'd share my experience. Be safe out there my fellow garage warriors ( SAFTY KEY AND COMMEN SENSE IS KEY )
Freeze/boiling protection isn't the only thing to worry about with old coolant. Part of the additive package is to prevent electrolysis where you can have electricity running through the cooling system and cause corrosion and break down of metal. Especially when you look at all the dissimilar metals the coolant touches, without those additives, you've made a battery. A good way to test it is to take a DVOM, put the pos lead on the pos batt cable, and the neg lead in the coolant. If you register any voltage reading, time to change the coolant out. And this is on top of lubrication properties that dwindle as well.
Major points for showing the water and old coolant!
Gotta tap it a few time against something. there are bubbles on your arrow. You can see them in the video which makes it way over.
Nice job Jimmy.I always mix my own coolant.I test it in the jug and write the results and the date tested on the jug.....
That’s a great tip, thanks!
@Dan Hambrick I agree. I never buy premixed coolant because I really don't know if it is 50/50 Also, I always buy a name brand coolant.
Thanks for posting!
A couple observations.....when performing a drain & flush (not a drain and fill), using the concentrate is not only cheaper, but in my eyes a must to acheive a balanced system. The key is knowing the full capacity of your cooling system before adding the new concentrate.
So after the system is clear of the old coolant, do a final flush with distilled water (I prefer doing this twice). Then button up the cooling system and add 1/2 of whatever your system holds with the new concentrate. Example, system capacity is 14 qts, add 7 of the concentrate, then top off with distilled water. This gets you very close to the desired 50/50 mix.
The other thing about over concentrating your coolant mix, is this can actually hinder the cooling system efficiency and for those of us that live in hotter environments like the southwest desert, that could become a big deal. Coolant is not as efficient at cooling as water. This is less of an issue in the cooler environments.
Love the channel..mine was losing fluid...no leaks..but found out my Reservoir cap was bad..$14 later...its refilling after cooling..thank lord..used this vid to and others for help
It’s sad that the 50% pre mixed costs twice as much but you actually get less coolant.....considering distilled water costs 79¢ a gallon.
convenience charge lol. Sometimes you're on the road and just need something to dump in there and you're not worried about a few extra bucks. Then there's just the lazy ones lol. I'm guilty of being both of those people.
Just do a drop and refill of antifreeze every 2 years and change water pump, thermostat and hoses every 5 years or 100K is what I have done. And never have had a failed radiator, water pump or heater core in 34 years of driving. About 1.2 million miles during that time. Never an overheat issue.
$50 in fluid and 1 hour every 2 years and $200 every 5 years and 3-4 hours labor in my home shop.
Good maintenance is the key. Not taking away from your video but I have never bought one of those testers. Spend the money on new antifreeze. When I get a new car to me, I change all fluids...100% all fluids. Even the window fluid. Brakes, diffs, trans, transfer, steering, cooling, oil, A/C refrig and compressor oil. $300 early saves thousands later.
So why do you click on a silly video Mr. Pro
I’m working on a 2 door 94 Yukon and a 94 2500 suburban your videos are perfect 👌🏾
I like to any time I buy a used car to flush the coolant, spill and fill trans fluid, change oil and diff/trans case fluid if they have them.
Nothing like a fresh start so you know when it needs done again next.
That was a great example of with the pure H2O in the tester does. I never even thought about what it would pop up to thanks again 1 Road!
Never use clean water without coolant. You also get a type that you can use without water!
With Dexcool, Flush every two years. Dexcool is great but if air gets in the system, the famous Dexcool sludge will appear. I had to replace the radiator and overflow tank due to the sludge. Clogged up the heater core too but luckily I could salvage it. I still use Dexcool but flush every two years no matter what.Two gallons of Dexcool is WAY cheaper than a radiator and overflow tank.
Thanks, have never checked the Fluids with the tool you are using. Seen it a million time had never used it!
With your excellent information sharing, I will get one and start checking my older car/ Suburban.
Really enjoy your videos!!
I like to have slightly more water than antifreeze in the system. like 55/45 .. water supposedly transfer heat better than antifreeze does.
NOTE: This hydrometer is only accurate with ethylene glycol coolant. For any newer organic coolant like HOAT you need to use a refractometer.
Mine uses p-hoat, what refractometers can I buy for it?
1 road this was a great video. It has helped me immensely. It explained a lot of things the other videos did not. Thank you so much very good job.
Those testers are horendously inaccurate. They usually err on the safe side. To test the coolant accuratly you can purchase a refractory tester from amazon.
Sorry to be the barer of bad news Jimmy but you are wrong. It is not good for your coolant to be over concentrated and by you tester yours is way over. Anti-freeze is not as good of a coolant (heat transfer agent) as water and it has a higher viscosity. Anti-freeze is to keep your coolant from freezing and it has anti corrosive additives plus water pump lubricant.
Being over concentrated will make your engine run warmer to the point of not being able to run cool enough at all in the summer in a traffic jam. If you live near LA you should be at 50/50 concentration and no more because it doesn't get that cold there. Even in Alaska or Maine you should never be over 70% AF/30% water.
You need to drain all your fluid out, get it down to the temp range for 50/50 mix and put it back in. I saw you refill your radiator in a previous video were you poured in pure anti freeze and then water. Big mistake. Always mix anti-freeze and water to the correct ratio before pouring into the radiatoror topping off the overflow tank. You are far from the first person to make this mistake but it IS A MISTAKE.
Also, there is another way to check your anti-freeze... by it's electrical resistance. There are TH-cam's on it. I prefer the little gadget you have, mines about 30 years old and it is my second one.
Good point.
Just change the spelling to “bearer”.
I remember a long time ago reading that you don't want to over concentrate with antifreeze because at a certain point your engine will start to actually run hotter than using the recommended 50/50 mux.
Great video Jimmy! We gotta tackle that ABS light soon!
Most likely an ABS module issue?
Thank you!!! Very clearly explained!!! And lots of extra information!
You do not want to be over concentrated. If you have too much coolant to water your coolant will freeze easier and boil easier than if it was properly mixed 50/50. You can also check coolant with VOM. It is not just about color, boiling point and freeze protection! Cheers!
Thanks for the tips!
You can do 70/30 it says it on the container of dexcool.
Somebody told me that "...NOBOBY puts water in my radiator". He used only straight coolant and towed a 37 ft fifth wheel. Never had any troubles going to, from and around Arizona for at least 20 years...
@@fredflintstone4715 That somebody probably was not aware of that they were already buying pre-mixed coolant that had a 50/50 ratio straight out of the bottle.
@@markkulyas2418 : I don't think you could even buy a 50/50 mix back in the 80's.
Great video on the subject.
After viewing 5x or so yours was the only one comparing distilled water and old/used coolant 😎👍
Boat question but same issues. On closed cooling stern drive boats if you put to much concentrated antifreeze in will it overheat? All passages are clean new pump risers manifolds but temp is 170 this year intead of 160. Stat is new too. 80 ocean. That`s the only thing i can think of. Also guage and sensor new too.
I could never got my prestone antifreeze tester to work. The tester is sitting somewhere in my tool box. On my Caterpillar they make a product to renew the antifreeze coolant.
Yea in my 01 tahoe I never use dexcool I only use the green stuff
Yeah dexcool sucks.
Hello. in the beginning I did not like your videos but now I like them and watch your videos 👍🏻
Refractometer are more accurate tool. So this is not the only measuring method.
Sorry if this has been asked already, but I doubt it has because I can't find the info anywhere.
I'd like to test my coolant, but I'm finding it difficult to understand why everybody is checking the fluid not from the radiator itself, but from the reservoir. From my understanding from what I have read, the expansion reservoir does not actually circulate coolant through the system, it only acts as to 1.) not allow overflow from spilling onto the ground, 2.) does not allow air to enter the system, and 3.) maintains 100% fill in the system if there is a leak, or other issues, such as burn off, or whatever.
If what I'm reading is correct, the only time the liquid in the overflow tank could actually be sucked into the system is possible during the expanding / contracting process, or if there is a leak / burn off of the liquid within the circulatory system.
So, if people are checking the reservoir for proper concentration of the liquid within the system, isn't that completely incorrect? Please learn me here... I'm dumbfounded and probably wrong.
On my Cadillac with a Northstar, there is no radiator cap. The only cap you can open and touch the fluid through is the overflow tank.
Keep them coming Jimmy!
That engine bay, on a vehicle that old, is so clean it’s giving me anxiety 😥 😂
I haven't used one of those testers for years.
Awesome! Cheers buddy.
do a ph test on coolant
Okay, so this video told me that tool is useless, and I don't have to bother getting one.
Thanks.
But yeah, I agree with replacing coolant as per manufacturer's recommended intervals.
Also if it doesn't pass a visual test = replace. Dark colour, brown or just plain tap water.
The tap water thing is not uncommon in areas where temperature doesn't drop below freezing.
Also antoger thing I noticed sometimes coolant smells bad or what ever is in the radiator, then also flush and replace.
Saw your video because I need to buy a new tester. Just want to mention that Dex-Cool can be problematic if it's not regularly maintained. I do mine every 2 years. If you leave it in there too long it becomes acidic and starts eating your head gaskets. Also it is not a good idea to mix it at higher concentrations than 50/50 for the same reason. Unless you live in eskimo land and it's really damned cold, 50/50 is good to -34 F So you have a 1995? That's when DexCool started. I have a 2003 and long for the days of the green stuff. Also don't ever mix green & orange, or start using green in a DexCool vehicle. Your cooling system and engine will become something like sludgy brown _ hit.
Awesome but simple video. Thank you. 🙏
The antifreeze tester looks really inaccurate. Just testing the density of the liquid doesn't give much information. Heck, even the boiling points given by it are misleading as different impurities change the boiling point by different amounts.
The Jiffy lube I used to work at I did a lot of coolant flushes. The coolant flush machine gets 100% of the old coolant out and adds brand new coolant. The coolant flush machine is connected by disconnecting the upper radiator hose when vehicle is cool enough to not have a stiff hot upper radiator hose. Then connected to the hose with a fitting and the radiator. Then there is small suction hose to suck the old coolant out of the reservoir. Then the machine has the proper anti freeze/coolant and water mix of the correct antifreeze and amount to fill the coolant system of the specific type of vehicle. Then the vehicle is started and allowed to run until the new coolant is pumped in and the old coolant is pumped out, which simultaneously! Then the reservoir and radiator are top off with coolant once machine is disconnected and the upper radiator hose is reconnected. This ensures a 100% antifreeze coolant replacement with new coolant. The starting cost when I worked at Jiffy Lube was $49.99 plus tax. Prices may vary depending on the oil change place and type and amount of coolant also.
Sounds good, but then you have to put the trust in Jiffy Lube employees to actually be competent enough to do their job correctly. And since the 1 time I went there they started my car without any oil I’ll never go back again.
Excellent video!👏🏼
Great video Jimmy. Ever experienced an air bubble or airlock after doing a water pump or radiator repair?
I like your videos bro! Your doing an awesome job!
But how do you know how much to add.
Does it test for acidity? Dexcool as it gets old becomes acidic.
Not the only way. You could always taste it.
I think it had been flushed before those trucks came with green antifreeze from the factory.
that's what I thought...
@sneakypete187I've had two 95 c1500's both had green antifreeze too and I'm not going to bother trying to convince him. Like the antifreeze video he just posted I could tell him that too much antifreeze to water actually doesn't mean more protection but actually can cause overheating but I'm sure he will figure it out.
The 95 I drive now has over 140k and has been a very reliable vehicle with inexpensive parts and easy diy repairs. I admit like 1road my good intentions in improvements for my truck have sometimes backfired but I had to learn for myself, lol...
Dexcool came out in 1996
My truck is about at 146k and it's my second 95 Silverado. I have to agree the glycol cannot transfer as much heat as water will and it's counterintuitive at concentrations over 50%. With a stock tune I switched to a 180° thermostat which is slightly less fuel efficient than the 195° stock. But the engine temperature now stays in a area that I'm now comfortable with some wiggle room for Texas heat.
Have you looked into datalogging or using a OBD1 adapter to view engine stats in realtime or get a base profile to compare to for diagnostics? Like 1Road I sometimes get into unexpected expenses trying to "maintain" my truck, but sometimes been surprised like finding my timing was slightly off and adjusting it to 0° and having a better idle.
Yep 96 was the first year for dexcool in these trucks. I have a 99 and only use green all makes all models coolant. Dexcool is too much of a gamble.
Arent you supposed to check Ph too?
im running almost 70 percent antifreeze in mine same engine only 89 my book says 56/44 mix i thought was odd. as far as temperature im at 200-205 unless ac is on idling then it gets to 210-212 which i hear is normal
im also running stock 195 thermostat
i also do not run dexkill. flush it out run green
i have same tester not sure if i trust it says straight water freezing at 0 degrees unless im reading wrong and my antifreeze in my truck reads same as yours
also the tester is at walmart etc no need to order
very detailed video thanks subscribed
Awesome 👍Thanks Jimmy
Just bought a container of stop 50/50 and my tester says it is good to -15*F
My tester is exactly like yours what could be the problem?
Excellent thank you for this
Great video
antifreeze doesn't cool as effectively as water will....
Thank you very much
Thank yu in the video aiam from saudia arabia
Just a heads up to folks! You should never use distilled water in your engine or radiator.
Thanks.
What about blue stuff?
Thanks!
You never tapped it to get the bubbles off the arrow!
How many miles on this truck
Approximately 82k
Why do you use destined water?
????????
Distilled. Don't ya hate when spell check swings and misses?
because tap water will screw crap up with what is in it
Are you ok with being overconcentrated? Well, I topped up the concentrated coolant, and guess what, the engine is overheating. Tomorrow I will add the distilled water into the rad.. By the way, when you suck the coolant into the tester, you have to tap the tester's body to make sure that there are no air bubbles. It even says that on the instructions
Perfect
Old fashioned method! Use a refraction type, it needs only one drop!
Aluminum Radiators can cause Problems, compared to old Copper ones.
Make sure your radiator is grounded. Since the coolant conducts electricity stray voltage will travel through it to find a ground. And because aluminum is the softest metal in the system it is the most vulnerable to damage. To prevent this from happening make sure the engine and frame are properly grounded to the battery. I added a ground from the battery to the radiator. You get electrolysis when you have a potential difference and a bad pathway to ground in your cooling system. The radiator sits on rubber grommets which isolates it from the chassis. If you have current in your coolant then you will be conducting electricity through the radiator. You want the current to go to a ground somewhere else.
Some people will disagree but adding a ground to the radiator cannot hurt or cause damage. If anything, it adds another ground to the front of the vehicle.
@@kennethdaniels5834 Good that you wrote this! 👍🏻
@@kennethdaniels5834 i never heard anyone recommend this but i as u said it won't hert . Thanks
This is just testing the boiling and freezing point. Not the quality and condition of the coolant
Never changed the coolant water pump failed multiple times umm there’s your reason to flush it.
How would I use this to identify the coolant to water ratio?
Id suggest you stay away from dexkill... just saying . I flushed mine out and replace it with eithertheToyota stuff or the universal yellow stuff
You should really take that Suburban to be dyno tested. What was the horse power rating when it was brand new?
Maybe if they worked you could test it huh? Bought it on Amazon the coolant won't even go up to the fill line so I got a replacement that's also a dud smh... You're going to test your coolant get something else
Dear god that's not the proper why, to test your antifreeze. You need to use a Refractometer in order to check test properly .
Dear Lord, you also need to send an oil sample to the lab to check it, too! Seriously, these testers are just fine.
Not to be mean but I would not waste my money on them that antifreeze tester they're not right and I spent money on more expensive ones they're not worth your money,. When I was growing up my dad use one type of antifreeze tester and battery tester and I still use the same Style today and I never had no problems with any my vehicles and did not matter how cold or hot my temperature was just perfect
P.S. the one I get cost me about $2.00
"Tap to dislodge air bubbles"can cause a higher reading as the bubbles make the arrow float higher
Sooo you're telling me I'm not suppose to taste it to see if it's still good? Damnit, my step dad is such a dick!!
70/30 be fine
shaman,
M
I’d rather be under concentrated than over concentrated….