I am going to comment again. Used this technique this morning. It worked perfectly. With a bit of work was able to dial it in to within a few thousandths (front to back, side to side) - over a twenty-inch span. Used feeler gauges. Good enough for woodworking. After this procedure I took another light cut off the spoil board (0.010), the surface is very smooth, with no ridges from the cutter. So happy! Thanks again.
Mitz, THANK YOU!!! For some unknown reason I went by what another 'expert' cnc youtuber did -- my stair steps were worse after that.... then came across your video and it is so close to nuts accurate that this diyer/hobbyist is 100% happy. Just got my machine up and running and you sir will be my go to resource. Building my enclosure based off yours-not a complete copy but definitely anyone will be able to tell that it is a "Mitz inspired" enclosure.- again THANK YOU! for your knowledge and time to put up videos... I know my gratitude won't pay your mortgage but you have tons and tons of good Karma coming your way!
Yes, thanks. At the time this video was made, the micro tram adjust wasn’t part of my woodworker. When I got the Journeyman, the micro adjust was added.
Excellent video, I have a problem where the spoilboard seems to be level, as well as the CNC, but when I run the around the project it doesn’t cut on the right hand side. It is like it out of level.
Hi just saw in your video that the screen is mounted on the side. Would it be possible to get the details of the set up? I find my screen keeps falling when it is mounted using the magnets on the front. Is it a touch monitor? What is the stand used?
I’m using a Dell P2314T touch screen monitor on a Mountup monitor arm. For a list of aftermarket monitors: forum.onefinitycnc.com/t/confirmed-aftermarket-screens-monitors-that-work-with-the-onefinity/4484 Link to monitor mount: www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07Z7ZGHD5?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title
Is there a way to confirm the 1/4" hole in the board is perfectly drilled in the board? if its not perfectly square to the board this method won't give accurate results. I've used my drill press to drill mine, but I'm still not convinced it as accurate as it needs to be. Your thoughts?
@@terrymoss4729 you can use the cnc to drill the holes. I used a 1-1/2” wide x 3/4” thick board and drilled into each end. I would do this after tramming left to right and place the board in the x axis (left to right). The holes will be far more accurate than doing it on the drill press. Another way to check squareness is to align a carpenter square from entry hole to exit hole across on the material
I created a spoil board surfacing program using Vectric V Carve Pro and loaded to on a flash drive but when i plug it into the Onefinity I cant find a program any suggestions would be helpful
Actually no… the metric dimension for max soft limit on motor 0 (X) should be set at 1220 mm which is 48.03”. For motor 2 (Y) max soft limit is 816 mm or 32.126” Therefore the center of the cutting area for the Journeyman, in Imperial is G00X24.015Y16.063 Send me a message through messenger if you need clarification or additional assistance.
Hello Mitz, I know this video is a bit old, bit I know the new elite’s have teaming bolts on the rails. I think I need to tram my Elite Journeyman. Can you please do a step by step video on the process of doing this? I know the infinity site has a diagram but I’m confused. I do much better with an actual how to video. I’d really appreciate it. Thanks Chris
Great video. I am very new about CNCing. I have my Onefinity and I am in the process of finishing my CNC bench. I will be mounting it to a MDF board that will be laying on my melamine bench top surface. I am confused about tramming. What is the reason for tramming? What size T-track is this? How much space do you recommend in between each T-track? Thank you for all your help with your information and videos. I appreciate it.
Tramming is a process to ensure that the router is co-planar to the wasteboard. If you can imagine that the router is tilted to the left let’s say, the left side of the bit will cut deeper than the right. When it makes its next pass, it will do it again and so on giving the tabletop a sawtooth effect. You want to ensure that the bit cuts the same amount on the left as it does on the right. Same applies to front and back of the bit. The t tracks normally measure 3/4” wide so with the 4 of them, that’s 3” and 5 MDF slats at 5-15/16” =29.6875”. Combined that’s a total of 32-11/16”. You can theoretically cut up to 33” with a 1” surfacing bit. As the travel of the centerline of the bit is only 32”. Just under the cutting area.
@@onefinity-trainingtipswithMitz Thank you very much. That all makes perfect sense. T-track can be purchased at Lowes or Home Depot? I was planning on mounting my Onefinity Woodworker to a 48"x48" MDF that I could freely move on my melamine workbench top surface. Will this be acceptable or should I anchor that down too? I wanted to be able to move it anytime I needed. Thanks again?
Consider getting the quick change wasteboard from Onefinity. It will accomplish what I think you want to do but is much stiffer than just the MDF base with t-track and wasteboard on top. If you’re wanting to go in this direction, I’d recommend screwing it down…there are lateral movements that could slide the unit, especially on melamine. The t-tracks are available on Amazon. Be sure to order the 36” set. www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07ZV5NL3Y?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title
@@onefinity-trainingtipswithMitz Thank you. Funny you mention the quick change system. I am hoping to order one this week but it will be awhile until I get it so I need to make something work until then. It sounds like the Quick Change secure from beneath is the best option. Do you have a preference as too which one is better?
Mine will be attach from above. I have the journeyman and I can’t see myself lifting it and holding while I try to maneuver a piece MDF in place. And then trying to screw into the MDF.
Your videos are great. Thank you for making them. Q: How does tramming relate to surfacing the board? Do you tram, then surface? Surface then tram? Surface, tram, surface again? Not clear how the two are related but seems one would impact the other. Thanks again.
Great question! Surfacing ensures that your spoilboard is parallel to the x and y gantry however if you have a bit of tilt in your router or z slider it could still leave a “stair step” pattern on your spoilboard. The process would be to surface the spoilboard first. I usually will take off about 0.015-0.020” from the lowest point on the spoilboard. If you’re left with a stair step pattern, then you need to tram your router and then resurface the spoilboard again so that the surfacing bit is completely parallel to the spoil-board.
Nope. The boards have been on there at least 3 months. Making profile cuts by zeroing Z off the wasteboard AND using calipers to measure thickness of material really preserves the wasteboard.
After you type in the G00x16.063y16.063 in the MDI tab, press enter and then press the play arrow. Be sure your units are in imperial before you start. The machine will move to center of cutting area when you hit the play button. Don’t forget to set your x to zero and y to zero once it’s moved to that location
Hi Mitz, How do you adjust front to back? I created a tram board like yours and there is 1/8 gap at back vs touching at the front over 22 inches. Do i put shims under bottom of router z mount to the rails on both sides? If yes, just use paper to shims? I could see ridge when doing first pass on surfacing spoilboard Thanks
Hi Randy…yes most are shimming behind the bolts on the Z slider. The Journeyman has front to back tramming bolts. Just waiting on some clarification about those, then I’ll probably doing a video.
Forgot to mention that depending on how much you need to shim to get your 1F trammed, you could use paper, business card or even thin metal cut from a soda can.
Thanks. I was wondering about the screws on the x rails ends. See below reply from Onefinity support i got on this question as they do seem to provide the adjustment. In the meantime 3 business cars behind z mount did the trick. "There are bolts on the ends of the x rail on the top rail and bottom rail, front and back. They are used to pivot the x rail forward and back. We'll be doing a detailed video of this in the coming weeks on our youtube channel."
@@onefinity-trainingtipswithMitz Did yall ever do the front to back tramming video? I can't find it on your youtube channel. My front to back tram isnt out by much but I would like to get it perfect to match my left/right. Thanks
You still need a starting point…you won’t know if you need tramming until you’ve surfaced the board. Without surfacing, you don’t know if the x and y gantry is parallel to the spoilboard. After surfacing, if there are no ridges that you can feel with your fingernail, then that means the z is not tilted side to side or front to back, thus does not require tramming. If there are ridges, then tramming is the next step. Based on direction and depth of the ridges (if they are present) you can use the tramming screws for front to back adjustment or adjust the z slide for side to side adjustments. Once trammed, run another surfacing pass taking off 0.01” or 0.02” to achieve a completely flat and smooth surface
Roughly how far out in thousands of an inch can it be before you need to "tramm"? Were you seeing the steps in your cutting? Does the machine change over time or is this a one-time thing? Would a dial indicator be overkill?
That depends on how accurate you want to be and how much finish sanding you want to do after the carve. For example, let’s say you surface your spoilboard with a 1” bit and 50% stepover and your steps in your spoilboard are 0.015”. This means that with a 1/4” endmill @50% stepover will leave steps in your carve of approx 0.004”. Doing the same and getting your steps to be, say 0.006” with surfacing bit means that with 1/4” endmill, you’ll be down to 0.0015”. In my opinion, if I can’t feel the step with my fingertips after surfacing, I’m good. Dial indicator allows you to get a reading over a wider (8-12”) span thus getting more tram accuracy however they can be expensive. Here’s a good article that gets into detail on tramming. www.cnccookbook.com/tramming-milling-machine-tool-indicator/
I followed you up until you cut the lines. I do not have my OF yet so this maybe a silly question. Did you program the lines with a software then load it into the machine. Or did you cut the lines using only the touchpad?
I created a grid file (in my case I used Carveco Maker), saved the toolpath and saved the toolpath to usb. Loaded that into the controller and then set my Z zero. The origin/datum point was set to the center of the cutting area and I used the mdi command to move to that location and then set X/Y zero.
Yes in desktop you’re limited to 24” x 24”. But if you want my file of the toolpath I can send it to you. Just need to save toolpaths on usb and plug that into back of controller. Home your machine, insert your bit and then set your xy zero and then set z zero
5-13/16” wide. You could go up to 6” wide as long as the overall width/length doesn’t exceed 33” with the inner t-tracks included. Refer to spoilboard surfacing video on setting this up th-cam.com/video/rtnmLiPstA0/w-d-xo.html
Tramming is the process to ensure your router and wasteboard is complete parallel to each other. This requires tilting the router or z slider to eliminate ridges left on your wasteboard after surfacing it. If you can catch your fingernail on the the ridges, you will need to tram otherwise the same ridges will appear when carving your project leaving you to do a lot of manual sanding.
![CAMPปลิ้น | รวม Highlight 2024! PART [1/2]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/6hnvNnvYloU/mqdefault.jpg)
I am going to comment again. Used this technique this morning. It worked perfectly. With a bit of work was able to dial it in to within a few thousandths (front to back, side to side) - over a twenty-inch span. Used feeler gauges. Good enough for woodworking. After this procedure I took another light cut off the spoil board (0.010), the surface is very smooth, with no ridges from the cutter. So happy! Thanks again.
So glad it worked so well!!
This is way more intuitive than grabbing a square and using the z-axis frame as a referance. Great idea using a wood block! Thanks
Mitz, THANK YOU!!! For some unknown reason I went by what another 'expert' cnc youtuber did -- my stair steps were worse after that.... then came across your video and it is so close to nuts accurate that this diyer/hobbyist is 100% happy. Just got my machine up and running and you sir will be my go to resource. Building my enclosure based off yours-not a complete copy but definitely anyone will be able to tell that it is a "Mitz inspired" enclosure.- again THANK YOU! for your knowledge and time to put up videos... I know my gratitude won't pay your mortgage but you have tons and tons of good Karma coming your way!
Thanks Mike. Really appreciate it. Feel free to reach out in Messenger if you have any questions whatsoever
Thanks Mitz.. I had been wondering about this (in terms of making the surface true and level). Huge gratitude from Newfoundland
This seems quite a bit easier than some of the other Tramming videos I've seen where they do arm extension part first and then adjust. Thanks!
excellent video, did the tramming like you showed and it worked great, thanks for eveything
Another one in the books. Great job guys!!
Excellent video. Thank you!
Thanks for sharing your knowledge and making these videos Mitz. This will come in handy when my machine arrives next week :-)
You bet!
Love it. Thank you for all your videos.
FYI,... Onefinity has tramming bolts to adjust front to back built into the feet of the X axis
Yes, thanks. At the time this video was made, the micro tram adjust wasn’t part of my woodworker. When I got the Journeyman, the micro adjust was added.
Thanks very informative
Thank you Sir.
Excellent video, I have a problem where the spoilboard seems to be level, as well as the CNC, but when I run the around the project it doesn’t cut on the right hand side. It is like it out of level.
It could be that you have a tramming issue or when you surfaced your wasteboard you might have a low spot.
Hi just saw in your video that the screen is mounted on the side. Would it be possible to get the details of the set up? I find my screen keeps falling when it is mounted using the magnets on the front. Is it a touch monitor? What is the stand used?
I’m using a Dell P2314T touch screen monitor on a Mountup monitor arm.
For a list of aftermarket monitors:
forum.onefinitycnc.com/t/confirmed-aftermarket-screens-monitors-that-work-with-the-onefinity/4484
Link to monitor mount:
www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07Z7ZGHD5?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title
Is there a way to confirm the 1/4" hole in the board is perfectly drilled in the board? if its not perfectly square to the board this method won't give accurate results. I've used my drill press to drill mine, but I'm still not convinced it as accurate as it needs to be. Your thoughts?
@@terrymoss4729 you can use the cnc to drill the holes. I used a 1-1/2” wide x 3/4” thick board and drilled into each end. I would do this after tramming left to right and place the board in the x axis (left to right). The holes will be far more accurate than doing it on the drill press.
Another way to check squareness is to align a carpenter square from entry hole to exit hole across on the material
Thanks for the info
I created a spoil board surfacing program using Vectric V Carve Pro and loaded to on a flash drive but when i plug it into the Onefinity I cant find a program any suggestions would be helpful
Did you create the toolpath and save the toolpath? That’s what you need to load on Onefinity. If you need some help send me message in Messenger
Do you know what the G00X Y would be for the Journeyman for the center. Cut area is 48.125 x 32.125 So would that be G00X24.0625Y16.0625 ?
Actually no… the metric dimension for max soft limit on motor 0 (X) should be set at 1220 mm which is 48.03”. For motor 2 (Y) max soft limit is 816 mm or 32.126”
Therefore the center of the cutting area for the
Journeyman, in Imperial is G00X24.015Y16.063
Send me a message through messenger if you need clarification or additional assistance.
@@onefinity-trainingtipswithMitz thank you very much for that
Would tramming fix any discrepancies within the y rails being higher and lower than eachother ? If that makes any sense
It depends on how much of a variance in height there is between the two rails.
Hello Mitz, I know this video is a bit old, bit I know the new elite’s have teaming bolts on the rails. I think I need to tram my Elite Journeyman. Can you please do a step by step video on the process of doing this? I know the infinity site has a diagram but I’m confused. I do much better with an actual how to video.
I’d really appreciate it. Thanks
Chris
Great video. I am very new about CNCing. I have my Onefinity and I am in the process of finishing my CNC bench. I will be mounting it to a MDF board that will be laying on my melamine bench top surface. I am confused about tramming. What is the reason for tramming? What size T-track is this? How much space do you recommend in between each T-track? Thank you for all your help with your information and videos. I appreciate it.
Tramming is a process to ensure that the router is co-planar to the wasteboard. If you can imagine that the router is tilted to the left let’s say, the left side of the bit will cut deeper than the right. When it makes its next pass, it will do it again and so on giving the tabletop a sawtooth effect. You want to ensure that the bit cuts the same amount on the left as it does on the right. Same applies to front and back of the bit.
The t tracks normally measure 3/4” wide so with the 4 of them, that’s 3” and 5 MDF slats at 5-15/16” =29.6875”. Combined that’s a total of 32-11/16”.
You can theoretically cut up to 33” with a 1” surfacing bit. As the travel of the centerline of the bit is only 32”. Just under the cutting area.
@@onefinity-trainingtipswithMitz Thank you very much. That all makes perfect sense. T-track can be purchased at Lowes or Home Depot? I was planning on mounting my Onefinity Woodworker to a 48"x48" MDF that I could freely move on my melamine workbench top surface. Will this be acceptable or should I anchor that down too? I wanted to be able to move it anytime I needed. Thanks again?
Consider getting the quick change wasteboard from Onefinity. It will accomplish what I think you want to do but is much stiffer than just the MDF base with t-track and wasteboard on top. If you’re wanting to go in this direction, I’d recommend screwing it down…there are lateral movements that could slide the unit, especially on melamine. The t-tracks are available on Amazon. Be sure to order the 36” set. www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07ZV5NL3Y?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title
@@onefinity-trainingtipswithMitz Thank you. Funny you mention the quick change system. I am hoping to order one this week but it will be awhile until I get it so I need to make something work until then. It sounds like the Quick Change secure from beneath is the best option. Do you have a preference as too which one is better?
Mine will be attach from above. I have the journeyman and I can’t see myself lifting it and holding while I try to maneuver a piece MDF in place. And then trying to screw into the MDF.
Your videos are great. Thank you for making them. Q: How does tramming relate to surfacing the board? Do you tram, then surface? Surface then tram? Surface, tram, surface again? Not clear how the two are related but seems one would impact the other. Thanks again.
Great question! Surfacing ensures that your spoilboard is parallel to the x and y gantry however if you have a bit of tilt in your router or z slider it could still leave a “stair step” pattern on your spoilboard. The process would be to surface the spoilboard first. I usually will take off about 0.015-0.020” from the lowest point on the spoilboard. If you’re left with a stair step pattern, then you need to tram your router and then resurface the spoilboard again so that the surfacing bit is completely parallel to the spoil-board.
@@onefinity-trainingtipswithMitz Perfect. Thanks again.
Are those brand new boards as well? Your machine ooks brand new!
Nope. The boards have been on there at least 3 months. Making profile cuts by zeroing Z off the wasteboard AND using calipers to measure thickness of material really preserves the wasteboard.
when you typed in g00x16.063y16.063 what button did you hit afterwards to get this to move?
After you type in the G00x16.063y16.063 in the MDI tab, press enter and then press the play arrow. Be sure your units are in imperial before you start. The machine will move to center of cutting area when you hit the play button. Don’t forget to set your x to zero and y to zero once it’s moved to that location
Hi Mitz,
How do you adjust front to back? I created a tram board like yours and there is 1/8 gap at back vs touching at the front over 22 inches. Do i put shims under bottom of router z mount to the rails on both sides? If yes, just use paper to shims?
I could see ridge when doing first pass on surfacing spoilboard
Thanks
Hi Randy…yes most are shimming behind the bolts on the Z slider. The Journeyman has front to back tramming bolts. Just waiting on some clarification about those, then I’ll probably doing a video.
Forgot to mention that depending on how much you need to shim to get your 1F trammed, you could use paper, business card or even thin metal cut from a soda can.
Thanks. I was wondering about the screws on the x rails ends. See below reply from Onefinity support i got on this question as they do seem to provide the adjustment. In the meantime 3 business cars behind z mount did the trick.
"There are bolts on the ends of the x rail on the top rail and bottom rail, front and back. They are used to pivot the x rail forward and back. We'll be doing a detailed video of this in the coming weeks on our youtube channel."
@@onefinity-trainingtipswithMitz Did yall ever do the front to back tramming video? I can't find it on your youtube channel. My front to back tram isnt out by much but I would like to get it perfect to match my left/right. Thanks
Hey Chris. I never did do a video however I can go over it quickly with you if you want to send me a note in Messenger.
Hey Mitz! Did you do this before flattening your spoilboard or after?
You do this after flattening the spoilboard as you want a reference for parallelism between the router and the spoilboard.
@@onefinity-trainingtipswithMitz So if your CNC is off and needs tramming how would it surface the spillboard flat?
You still need a starting point…you won’t know if you need tramming until you’ve surfaced the board. Without surfacing, you don’t know if the x and y gantry is parallel to the spoilboard. After surfacing, if there are no ridges that you can feel with your fingernail, then that means the z is not tilted side to side or front to back, thus does not require tramming. If there are ridges, then tramming is the next step. Based on direction and depth of the ridges (if they are present) you can use the tramming screws for front to back adjustment or adjust the z slide for side to side adjustments. Once trammed, run another surfacing pass taking off 0.01” or 0.02” to achieve a completely flat and smooth surface
Roughly how far out in thousands of an inch can it be before you need to "tramm"? Were you seeing the steps in your cutting? Does the machine change over time or is this a one-time thing? Would a dial indicator be overkill?
That depends on how accurate you want to be and how much finish sanding you want to do after the carve. For example, let’s say you surface your spoilboard with a 1” bit and 50% stepover and your steps in your spoilboard are 0.015”. This means that with a 1/4” endmill @50% stepover will leave steps in your carve of approx 0.004”.
Doing the same and getting your steps to be, say 0.006” with surfacing bit means that with 1/4” endmill, you’ll be down to 0.0015”.
In my opinion, if I can’t feel the step with my fingertips after surfacing, I’m good.
Dial indicator allows you to get a reading over a wider (8-12”) span thus getting more tram accuracy however they can be expensive. Here’s a good article that gets into detail on tramming.
www.cnccookbook.com/tramming-milling-machine-tool-indicator/
@@onefinity-trainingtipswithMitz Thanks!
I followed you up until you cut the lines. I do not have my OF yet so this maybe a silly question. Did you program the lines with a software then load it into the machine. Or did you cut the lines using only the touchpad?
I created a grid file (in my case I used Carveco Maker), saved the toolpath and saved the toolpath to usb. Loaded that into the controller and then set my Z zero. The origin/datum point was set to the center of the cutting area and I used the mdi command to move to that location and then set X/Y zero.
@@onefinity-trainingtipswithMitz then in my case, using the desktop version of one infinity I could not do this.
Send me an email and I will send you my file. My email is mitzpellic@yahoo.com
Yes in desktop you’re limited to 24” x 24”. But if you want my file of the toolpath I can send it to you. Just need to save toolpaths on usb and plug that into back of controller. Home your machine, insert your bit and then set your xy zero and then set z zero
Hi how wide did you cut the Mdf pieces? Thank you
5-13/16” wide. You could go up to 6” wide as long as the overall width/length doesn’t exceed 33” with the inner t-tracks included. Refer to spoilboard surfacing video on setting this up
th-cam.com/video/rtnmLiPstA0/w-d-xo.html
@@onefinity-trainingtipswithMitz thank you
How deep did you machine your grid lines, Mitz?
0.02” with 60 deg v- bit
Whats the point in tramming? thanks
Tramming is the process to ensure your router and wasteboard is complete parallel to each other. This requires tilting the router or z slider to eliminate ridges left on your wasteboard after surfacing it. If you can catch your fingernail on the the ridges, you will need to tram otherwise the same ridges will appear when carving your project leaving you to do a lot of manual sanding.