My 1901 Buffalo bronze just same back from NGC, Detailed - Cleaned. Before I bought it you said it was probably cleaned, well NGC agreed. I kind of built that in to my thinking and did get a discount but it will remain a placeholder in my collection for some time. So of my best 10 medals submitted that was the only sort of surprise. Willl be working on my first NGC box opening soon.
Still a killer piece. And I believe so many of these medals were cleaned--often harshly--because they were awarded to and stored by people outside of our hobby.
I love toning. I think it is gorgeous and usually will pay more for a naturally toned coin if it’s in decent shape. I did find a copper slug in my family collection and almost threw it out, but it seemed odd that someone would put a piece of copper in with the coins. I cleaned it after watching a half dozen videos. To my surprise my ugly piece of black copper was an 1803 Large Cent. It is badly worn but I could make out the bust, date and reverse. I nearly threw it out! It may not be worth much now, but I keep it for sentimental value.
Really useful, detailed information from by the looks of it, years of experience. You may well have saved some folk some money if they listen to you. Any thoughts on silver bullion milk spots? And have you tried diluted dry cleaning laundry detergent (the stuff with TCE in it)?
Thanks, mate! I've never tried that technique so I can't speak to its efficacy. But I also don't buy much modern bullion, so milk spots have never really been an issue for me.
@@Dub-C_CoinsI’m similar on modern bullion although I’ve been trialing ways to remove milk spots as bullion with it is very cheap….. long story….. and the dry cleaning fluid with dilute TCE is a trick for cleaning precision mirrors - I.e. it doesn’t scratch. 👍
great video dub-c. im so glad you spoke to this. heres the issue though. ive watched youtube videos where very popular content creators have dipped thier coins and have used a q-tip. afterwards he sent them out to be graded as a test. these coins came back with a low ms designation with no details remarks. now when he does it its considerd "restoration". if i do it following his methods its considerd "ruining". now i dont send coins to be graded so i dont have that ultimate litness test. also ive bought world silver coins on ebay, some of them come looking bright and shinny. there is never cleaned info in the description, so i have to assume that it was cleaned at some point. if a coin dealer who does "restoration" can get a cleaned coin past the graders then how is that possible? if cleaning coins wasnt a issue in the 1960s then what will it mean in 20 years when a lot of these coins become more scarace, morgans, peace and constitutional ? good job dubs.🙂
Great comment! My thoughts: 1. Did that other youtuber remove the coin from an already-graded slab? 2. Do you have any way of knowing what that piece graded before they doctored it? 3. Is it possible it was actually graded higher (or might have graded higher) if submitted before they worked on it? 4. If not, might it have graded the same regardless? 5. Would that piece have graded higher if it had been submitted to NCS for "professional" conservation? 6. Do you know how many coins that youtuber worked on before they shot that video? First time, or 1,000th time? 7. Did that youtuber leave out the pieces that came back with a details grade after using their technique? I could probably keep going. But again: You don't need old Dub-C's permission to clean your coins. I'm just telling you my opinion--which happens to align with the American Numismatic Association ;)
@@Dub-C_Coins if my memory serves me it was 4 coins- raw. they arrived in his shop in a condition that was less than desirable. i though to his credit he took something bad and made it good.
Great stuff! Is the green substance on Tyre Shekel Lot #416 229th HJB from PVC do you think? I was wondering about that - maybe you can confirm or deny? Thanks dub! 🍯🐝🌻
Ancients are a really special area. That's a great piece. I don't think Berk would let something out that was active PVC. Seems more likely it's a verdigris or patina of some kind. Not uncommon. But I'd ask Aaron.
Great question. I'm not aware of any interaction (or reaction) with alcohol. I'd recommend exploring online to see. If anyone has experience, hopefully they'll chime in. I've used the technique in this video for many years and hundreds of coins, though. So if it's oils you want to remove, I think this process is effective.
I would like to see more info on types of tarnish/toning. Like the different types of album/pvc/different storage toning. What is desirable toning and what is not. What are dealers using to clean their 90% silver, because every coin in those junk silver bins have the same tone?
Hey Dub-Cs. I posted a review of this video. I sure hope you don't hate me for it. Just my honest point of view. A different view for you to consider. I think my video focuses on your lack of separation between Gradable and Ungradable coins. These are clearly two very different kinds of coins and so they both have a different set of rules. I have the VAM Guidelines setting right in front of me. Both editions 2 & 4.
Appreciate the follow up! Again, my video shared my opinion. You don't need my permission to do with your coins what you want to do. But my opinion closely aligns with the American Numismatic Association. And I also feel that even old, cull coins tell a story with their surfaces.
@@Dub-C_Coins Well I'm more a follower of the VAM Guidelines. They say it is okay to reduce Toning to a point where the Coin can be properly examined for VAM characteristics. We both know it is a Subjective call. I respect your opinion but often I can not tell if you are talking about damaged or undamaged coins. I have watched the ANA on this matter a few times and I see they don't mention the difference either. I'm not asking for anyone's permission, I don't need anyone's permission. I am asking for the part of the story that is missing.
I have very few collectible coins, and would never dream of cleaning any of them. I do however have no qualms cleaning my bullion. Some of the 90% I had collected was pretty nasty and it got cleaned. No sin in that though.
I get it! I've actually brought my numismatic background into bullion, though. I like original surfaces on vintage bullion. Dub-C's choice: Two identical pieces of vintage bullion. One freshly cleaned, one with a little tone. Which do you pick? I'm original tone all the way.
@@Dub-C_Coins Oh if it's toned and not just filth keep the tone all the way. I have, in my opinion, two of the most beautifully toned Sunshine Mining pieces from 1985. One ounce and one half ounce, they came in a display box together in one of those blown plastic inserts covered with purple felt. I think it was that felt that caused the toning.
My 1901 Buffalo bronze just same back from NGC, Detailed - Cleaned. Before I bought it you said it was probably cleaned, well NGC agreed. I kind of built that in to my thinking and did get a discount but it will remain a placeholder in my collection for some time. So of my best 10 medals submitted that was the only sort of surprise. Willl be working on my first NGC box opening soon.
Still a killer piece. And I believe so many of these medals were cleaned--often harshly--because they were awarded to and stored by people outside of our hobby.
@@Dub-C_Coins I hope you are not just trying to make me feel better! LOL. Thanks.
I love toning. I think it is gorgeous and usually will pay more for a naturally toned coin if it’s in decent shape. I did find a copper slug in my family collection and almost threw it out, but it seemed odd that someone would put a piece of copper in with the coins. I cleaned it after watching a half dozen videos. To my surprise my ugly piece of black copper was an 1803 Large Cent. It is badly worn but I could make out the bust, date and reverse. I nearly threw it out! It may not be worth much now, but I keep it for sentimental value.
Really useful, detailed information from by the looks of it, years of experience. You may well have saved some folk some money if they listen to you. Any thoughts on silver bullion milk spots? And have you tried diluted dry cleaning laundry detergent (the stuff with TCE in it)?
Thanks, mate! I've never tried that technique so I can't speak to its efficacy. But I also don't buy much modern bullion, so milk spots have never really been an issue for me.
@@Dub-C_CoinsI’m similar on modern bullion although I’ve been trialing ways to remove milk spots as bullion with it is very cheap….. long story….. and the dry cleaning fluid with dilute TCE is a trick for cleaning precision mirrors - I.e. it doesn’t scratch. 👍
Looking forward to it 👍
great video dub-c. im so glad you spoke to this. heres the issue though. ive watched youtube videos where very popular content creators have dipped thier coins and have used a q-tip. afterwards he sent them out to be graded as a test. these coins came back with a low ms designation with no details remarks. now when he does it its considerd "restoration". if i do it following his methods its considerd "ruining". now i dont send coins to be graded so i dont have that ultimate litness test. also ive bought world silver coins on ebay, some of them come looking bright and shinny. there is never cleaned info in the description, so i have to assume that it was cleaned at some point. if a coin dealer who does "restoration" can get a cleaned coin past the graders then how is that possible? if cleaning coins wasnt a issue in the 1960s then what will it mean in 20 years when a lot of these coins become more scarace, morgans, peace and constitutional ? good job dubs.🙂
Great comment! My thoughts:
1. Did that other youtuber remove the coin from an already-graded slab?
2. Do you have any way of knowing what that piece graded before they doctored it?
3. Is it possible it was actually graded higher (or might have graded higher) if submitted before they worked on it?
4. If not, might it have graded the same regardless?
5. Would that piece have graded higher if it had been submitted to NCS for "professional" conservation?
6. Do you know how many coins that youtuber worked on before they shot that video? First time, or 1,000th time?
7. Did that youtuber leave out the pieces that came back with a details grade after using their technique?
I could probably keep going. But again: You don't need old Dub-C's permission to clean your coins. I'm just telling you my opinion--which happens to align with the American Numismatic Association ;)
@@Dub-C_Coins if my memory serves me it was 4 coins- raw. they arrived in his shop in a condition that was less than desirable. i though to his credit he took something bad and made it good.
@@mikezambrano2555 Interesting. Just know that we creators can manipulate information easily.
Great stuff! Is the green substance on Tyre Shekel Lot #416 229th HJB from PVC do you think? I was wondering about that - maybe you can confirm or deny? Thanks dub! 🍯🐝🌻
Ancients are a really special area. That's a great piece. I don't think Berk would let something out that was active PVC. Seems more likely it's a verdigris or patina of some kind. Not uncommon. But I'd ask Aaron.
@@Dub-C_Coins Yes I plan on asking him, but I am surprised to hear that it remains active?
What about using Isopropyl Alcohol, is that safe to use for removing skin oils from handling? Specifically for Silver coins and Silver Bullion.
Great question. I'm not aware of any interaction (or reaction) with alcohol. I'd recommend exploring online to see. If anyone has experience, hopefully they'll chime in. I've used the technique in this video for many years and hundreds of coins, though. So if it's oils you want to remove, I think this process is effective.
What do you think of Air-Tite coin holders and their foam ring inserts? Safe for long term coin storage?
@@pomme4moi Yes, absolutely safe!
Thx.
I would like to see more info on types of tarnish/toning. Like the different types of album/pvc/different storage toning. What is desirable toning and what is not. What are dealers using to clean their 90% silver, because every coin in those junk silver bins have the same tone?
That's a really great idea. I don't know if I can offer an expert opinion. But I will do a video on toning, soon!
Can't wait to see it!!!🎉🎉🎉
Hey Dub-Cs. I posted a review of this video. I sure hope you don't hate me for it. Just my honest point of view. A different view for you to consider. I think my video focuses on your lack of separation between Gradable and Ungradable coins. These are clearly two very different kinds of coins and so they both have a different set of rules. I have the VAM Guidelines setting right in front of me. Both editions 2 & 4.
Appreciate the follow up! Again, my video shared my opinion. You don't need my permission to do with your coins what you want to do. But my opinion closely aligns with the American Numismatic Association. And I also feel that even old, cull coins tell a story with their surfaces.
@@Dub-C_Coins Well I'm more a follower of the VAM Guidelines. They say it is okay to reduce Toning to a point where the Coin can be properly examined for VAM characteristics.
We both know it is a Subjective call. I respect your opinion but often I can not tell if you are talking about damaged or undamaged coins.
I have watched the ANA on this matter a few times and I see they don't mention the difference either.
I'm not asking for anyone's permission, I don't need anyone's permission.
I am asking for the part of the story that is missing.
I have very few collectible coins, and would never dream of cleaning any of them. I do however have no qualms cleaning my bullion. Some of the 90% I had collected was pretty nasty and it got cleaned. No sin in that though.
I get it! I've actually brought my numismatic background into bullion, though. I like original surfaces on vintage bullion. Dub-C's choice: Two identical pieces of vintage bullion. One freshly cleaned, one with a little tone. Which do you pick? I'm original tone all the way.
@@Dub-C_Coins Oh if it's toned and not just filth keep the tone all the way. I have, in my opinion, two of the most beautifully toned Sunshine Mining pieces from 1985. One ounce and one half ounce, they came in a display box together in one of those blown plastic inserts covered with purple felt. I think it was that felt that caused the toning.
I want to clean half cent and 2 cent pieces so that I can plate them with platinum then resell em
I'm afraid I can't offer any advice there. Maybe talk to a jeweler?
@@Dub-C_CoinsI'll become my own jeweler when we open up our coin shop
Why…….??