Most Common Problems: 1997 - 2001 Honda CRV RD1 RD2
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 22 ก.ย. 2021
- In this episode, I cover the most common issues I see on the 1st generation Honda Crv's that come through my shop.
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*1999 CR-V EX, 267K miles two years ago the a/c compressor went (part $168/ + $120 install) and charge, 2 rear links and the cruise control does not work, the clock in the center of the console doesn't work and I had to replace the door pull latch drivers side, $11 for the part and about 20 mins of my time. That's it. Best car I ever owned.*
wow thats awesome! just got a 2004 crv 170k in immaculate condition and i mean immaculate! hope to see it get to the 267k
The clock didn't work in mine when I first bought it. I took it out, disassembled it and followed a tutorial on here to reflow solder. Worked like a charm. Just be careful when removing it from the dash as the dash is soft and likes to crack when leveraged against. :)
@@kirleyq1394Thanks!
@@gailmrutland6508See video: Honda Cruise Control Fix With A Penny_ DIY Jeff
I am not sure, but the above YT video MAY be the fix your cruise control issue.
And read the comments section afterwards, because there's an adjustment. See 5th comment down, made by @itzmrfizz
I have owned a 98 CRV since it was new, a common problem I have had is that the electronic air control valve bolted to the back of the intake manifold becomes fouled, causing rough idle. It needs to be cleaned with brake cleaner every 10,000 miles or so. Keeps the car idling smooth.
I'm thinking I need to do this because I had surging idle with IACV DTC for a second.
Every 10k miles sounds like over kill lol maybe once a year🤷♂️🤔
@Danny Martinez well every 10k miles is once a year for a lot of people
@@jacobgillean7129 I never had issue bruh
@Danny Martinez same here. But my friend has had that issue on one of his crvs and his del sol
I inherited a first-generation 98 manual CRV, and everything you've mentioned is exactly what's wrong with it right now 🤣 awesome vid dude!!
Look up gene Kim n Robert breaker on TH-cam
I'm gonna buy my first CR-V tomorrow. 1998 with 85,000 miles. This video help me a lot
Dang! Low miles!!!
Nice. I recently bought a 1999 LX with 58,633 from a little old lady neighbor. I had a 2001 LxX that I had bought brand new. Your videos are the best.
Did you get it ? How much did you pay? I'm going to see a 1997 someone is selling for $2,900
Yes ! Nice low miles!
I live in South Africa and own a 98. Most issues you mention I have dealt with. One issue that there was with mine is on the ignition switch. There is a small harness about 4 inches long that connects the ignition to the wiring harness. The ignition wire fails, causing the car to cut out while driving, and you have to restart. In the beginning it happens intermittently, but get to a point where you start the car and it dies immediately, and to replace it costs a small fortune in my country. I solved the problem by brigding the ACC switch and the ignition switch with a small piece of wire. This was 9 years ago and never had problems again. Only drawback, when you switch the car on at ACC the dash lights up. Hope the advice helps someone
My 2001 I bought with 32,000 on it in 2008, now has almost 400,000 on it.
The manual transmission is bulletproof. I've replaced all the ball joints once. And one front wheel bearing.
It' has the original CV axles. I disassembled and regreased them. And put on new boots.
I swapped the rear diff for the unit from the 2008-11 Element, and it makes a huge difference! Drives much more like a car, the original diff makes it feel like a heavy truck, even though it's a unibody.
I have a CRV from 99, 147 hp, and i'm interested.
Besides the quieter move how about the power ?
How difficult is to replace the diff ? Does it fit ?
@@adihus67 It's not hard to replace the diff, it's very accessible. The power feels much better, it completely changes the driving feel of the CR-V, feels like a nimble car instead of a truck, even on the snow. It's an exact fit because they used the same casing as the original unit, which makes sourcing one difficult, they only way to tell which one has the upgrade is by model year.
I didn't notice any difference in noise between the new and old diff, but neither seems loud
Great video man love your videos on these v's. You and couple other people i follow on the internet saved me lots of money learning how to repair things. I really appreciate it. Keep up the great work!!
Awesome man, I'm happy to have you here
@@hondaresource Je suis réparateur au Togo Badou Wawa La boite automatique PNRD21Sa déplace lentement pas de force
Just FYI on the passenger side water on the floor. I have dealt with this issue on a few of them. On the roof there is a black strip that runs from the windshield to the rear window. There is a body seam under that trim and the sealant cracks. The water enters the body seam, runs down the a-piller then behind the dash and onto the floor.
I'll definitely check that out as I have one here now with that problem
I also have the same problem
A cruddy door seal will also cause a "leak" onto the front passenger floor.
currently I need advice how to deal with mines I have the 1998 model with sunroof and when rain fall heavy both passanger and driver side water on the flooring please what cause this really need to get this sought out soon as possible. could it be the sunroof rubber need changing if so where can I source the rubber online to purchase. Help anyone please how to deal with this problem.
How would you fix that?
I have a 99 and I have had almost all of these issues. We’re just working on the door wiring now 😅 love her
Great informational video. Was able to fix the clock in my old first gen with a $10 sottering iron. Only issue i had for the 30,000 miles of ownership i had was a sticky thermostat. Sold it to a good friend with over 300,000 miles on the odo and its still going strong
I've fixed a couple clocks over the years. I dont even bother with them now
Huh?
I tried to fix my clock with a solidering iron, I plugged it in, came on for 2 seconds and went back out.😐
I tried to solder as much as I can but couldn't get under a circuit board plate..the plate is like glued on.
For the clock I bought.a LED kit on Amazon for about $10 that fits inside the existing case. No battery required if you hook it up to the exiting car battery wiring. Voltage divider (2 resistors) will reduce the voltage down to under 4 V. All the old clock components get tossed.
@Darryl Stevens can you please link me to the led kit you used? Also tried to solder two diff oem clocks, works intermittently. Seems like the problem is in the wiring harness which i’d rather not deal with. Clock seems to work when moving harness in diff positions
@@druf. try this you tube video. I did not use the supplied battery though & instead connected to my car battery but dropped the voltage down to under 5V using 2 resistors.
th-cam.com/video/_DfmCX9mzDw/w-d-xo.html
I just had all the frame bushings renewed in my 1st-gen CR-V - MUCH quieter now. Also had the door wiring problem - had the dealership do all the soldering - pretty good job - still works.
Great channel! Just got a 2001 for my grandson first car. Thanks for sharing your knowledge!
Awesome, I hope he enjoys it!
Thanks for the vid. I love my 1st Gen CRV. I do have some issues but for the most part, these cars are tanks. A true testament to Japanese quality cars when they were still made in Japan.
I love them man
@@hondaresource Quick question for you, a while back I had an issue with the transmission slipping. (I had the transmission rebuild but still giving me problems, diff issue) .What is your recommendation when it comes to transmission and giving problems on this gen 1 Vs. Do you look for a wrecked one and swap it? (but I am afraid I am just buying time before it happens again). What's your take on this? I know the gen 1 Vs are notorious to have transmission issues. Thanks in advance for the comment on my question. And awesome content on the channel. You got a new subcriber here. :)
@@itsjiraheta I had the 2 trans oil sending units replaced and the trans goes good now....only issue is I get a small clunk when going into 2 nd gear....but I'm having trouble passing emissions because it still trigger's the check engine light....The Tork converter ......I'm looking to get a used trans on eBay or Junkyard.....then having it installed.....But common problem......
@@SaulnowPaul77722 Thanks for the info. I just hit 200k. Doing a lot of work on it. I went to a junkyard and got me some some working selenoids. I hope that helps me. Doing a transmission flush too. Ill share my findings. But, I have heard the same thing. That tends to be a common problem. Thanks for the reply.
I have 1997 Japanese RHD! Love my little Beeden! I am a mail carrier in the north. AWD handles snow like a champ!!!
wow the timing on this video is great for me... just now noticed a significant amount of moisture green mold under my mats after 17 years of having this car. it's always stayed dry until recently after we moved from our place that had a covered carport.
I hope you get it fixed!
I have 1995 model and still running good today.
Awesome
Completely right about working in the rust... Did my 99 crv's front suspension recently and the driver side came off okay, passenger side every second bolt needed to be drilled out or cut through. I can say from personal experience, a grinder doesn't nicely fit where most those bolts are and cutting through suspension components is a hell of a lot of work lol. At least I have a sweet CRV now though I suppose...
I recently acquired an 01' V and it had a burnt Cyl 3 exhaust valve. JDM B20B. Pulled the head. Lapped valves. Replaced burnt valve and seals. Installed and it runs great but seems to be consuming a ton of oil. Think I've got bad or stuck rings. It also does this super weird thing where it starts great cold but when warm it long cranks and barely sputters to life. I'm currently chasing that issue. And per your valve lash vid, lash is spot on. I really took my time with that so I don't think that's the issues. 175 miles so far in this rebuild. 😊
You are spot on Sir…have had most of these problems…still a tough little car
Just did a boatload of work to mine, including engine swap, most of the suspension replaced. just had one horn go out, which killed the brake lights, etc. Fixed that, and the rear washer. The only thing left is the Cruise control, which used to work and a front end alignment.
My 2001 manual 5 speed in newly painted Milano red will hit 300K soon. I do all maintenance myself & it runs like a dream. I've experienced about half the issues you list & some you haven't. The last part I replaced was a door lock actuator. Those $9 aftermarket actuators are junk! My CRV is only the 2nd car I've ever owned & I just turned 60 yrs old. My last car was a Mazda RX7. Only Japanese.
Nice! We have 2 '93 rx7s
I saw a bright red 2001 recently. Couldn’t believe how nice the new paint job was. Did you have a chain outfit do the work or local shop?
@@gomertube Went to Maaco. Filled any dents myself to save money. $1300. I was told I didn't need their premium paint job. No orange peel & damn looks brand new.
@@darrylstevens2556 Thanks, man.
You are BRILLIANT !! ❗Thank you for all your video's. I in past years all I have owned are older Honda CRV's. I don't want to own anything else.
Not sure what would cause a smell
Have you had any problems with your automatic transmission if so can I ask you a question I have a 2000 CRV $204,000 MI....
The only thing more quirky than a CRV, is a CRV owner.
Great content, man! You're one of very the few relatable content creators on this topic! I'm heavily contemplating on getting a Gen 1 2000/2001 CRV -- can you talk on their 20+ year old automatic transmission? What to look for before buying, it's reliability and it's maintenance? The local buy & sell groups seem to sell the AT (automatic transmission) at a much affordable price than the MTs, buy Im quite wary of the AT's possible issues and upkeep -- especially on a 20+ year old Honda. I've never had a AT vehicle ever, but I'm so tempted to get one on a gen 1 CRV! Keep the informative content coming, and thank you!
generally they are pretty solid. The auto will most likely fail before the manual.
Oh, I was waiting for you to have nailed the PGMFI and/or main relay problem, notorious for most Honda models of these years range. The cold solder joints on the PCB board, easy to fix or replace.
The main relays can definitely be an issue!
Thank you for all the valuable info. The one serious design fault that has bothered me is how the rear tailgate works. It is instinctive to just go straight for the handle on the tailgate, if you dont know to first lift up the glass. Obviously, as the owner, it is not a problem, but generally when someone else opens the back, they just open the tailgate, so that the glass gets forced up and drops again.... and then, if they try to close the tailgate, it will just break the glass. The printed warning is difficult to see, and pretty useless.
The other irritating issue that I have noticed, - my CRV has the built in roof racks that run above the doors. Pretty useless compared to those that run perpendicular over the roof, and also no sensible way to tie ropes.... but the worst issue is that there is a gutter to collect rain water that runs under the roof rack, and there is a post just above the front door, so when it has been raining, and the roof is wet, when you brake, all the water runs forward, hits that post and then pours down the window.... if the window is open, it pours down onto the driver - happens to me often, and I curse myself for not anticipating it.
They fixed it with the 2nd gen. 😂
I was wondering where that leak was coming from. Thank you for the great info.
In my '01 it's not a leak as such but a dirty, cruddy door seal that directs water into the car. The seal has a fold that has to be opened up and cleaned out. I use the car key because it's pointed but blunt and won't puncture the rubber.
just bought my first car and it was a 2001 honda cr-v thanks for the video i learned a lot
Awesome
Man, pretty happy came across your channel. Just subbed. Thanks for good info on crvs.
I’m looking at getting a metal building built for couple my Honda’s. Wanting to get two post lift put in it. Love seeing how you have that shelf u built goin across in the back.
Can please do a video on your garage and how the size works for u and ceiling roof with ur post lift.
Thanks man
I can probably do something like that
Thanks man. Helpful video
Crazy, I have a 5 speed first gen CR-V in this same clover green, so this video was a godsend for my clicking suspension lol
Hopefully you get it figured out. Occasionally I see the sway bar bushings go bad but most likely it's the end links
Mine too , exact , 2000 crv ex 5 speed ,
Look up gene Kim n chuck missler on TH-cam
very true, I confirm with the experience with my crv. good job. keep rolling :)
Man your crv videos are great, I've had a lot of these issues with mine. Nice crocs btw lmao
I love the Crocs man
@@hondaresource never had a pair, might have to try them out
@@brandonjones5637 me either until about 2 months ago. Now I wear these things like everyday
Great content my bro. Love your videos. I own 2 first gen crv’s and they’re both manual. They’re pretty rare everywhere with manual transmissions. One is a 99 lx and the other is a 01 ex. Love them both. The 01 I bought back in 2010. Picked it up from a surfer dude in Santa Barbara :)
That's awesome!
H2B swap one of the bad boys cut the Qsd kit for the starter and you ready to go
@@bakihanma7247 I'm a dealer for PLM and sell a h2b kit. It's kinda tough to find h motors around here though
@@bakihanma7247 not a bad idea. I was thinking about changing pistons and rods on the lx and boosting it. Also a custom b series tranny. 1&2 gears from 99-00 si 3&4 gears gar and 5th from integra ls.
H series are kind of hard to come by here also. I’m in California. Plenty of b series and k series though.
Heyyyy just watching this video. I already identified some issues! thank you
solid content brotha keep it up
Thank you brother 🤟
98 5 speed with 362k. Thankfully fixed nearly everything listed here already.
thank you lord for this channel, video, and comment section!
Welcome!
i totally agree there is nothing worse than working on rusty cars, great videos you are helping me keep my little honda on the road :-)
Thank you sir!
Salt and snow, worst four letter S words ever!
I am 72 . live in Argentina..but I am ready to buy ..I want to say thank you for you generosity sharing your knowledge...thank you.
Glad I could help. Best of luck with your CRV
Love your videos keep up the good work.... please i have a question for a first time car buyer who is still learning to drive which do you advise on getting the first or second CRV will really appreciate your feedback
Thanks you man! I'm French and your video is very interesting ;)
Thank you
Very helpful video. Looking to buy one now
Glad it was helpful!
Bro you forgot to mention the biggest problem, how cooked the owners are 😂😂. Seam seal in the roof channels and firewall near the cowl can split and leak ussualy after cleaning dirt and grime away.... fun times. Good video dude, much love from new Zealand
Thank you man
This is exactly my problem!! Water leak on drivers side somewhere up near the firewall. And there’s zero info on that. All kinds of info on the passenger side leak but never on the drivers side. Great video. Thank you for taking the time to make these vids on the first gens!!!
I agree with you jay bilawchuk !!! I have a leak on the drivers side too. So annoying!!!
The alternator is giving me issues.
40 amp option fuse u nder hood of 98 Honda crv i pulled out and accidentally dropped it nto area under fuse box. cant see or get to.
awesome, thanks! mine is a 98. 430 000 km on her. will check those points you mentioned. thanks
I'd be very interested in a common problems with the 2nd gen CR-V, as well!
I can definitely do that
See my content.. we deal with 2nd gens
Yeah, that would be a good idea...
Hi, you've got a great collection videos here! Thank for sharing them with the public! I have fuel injector leaking to the intake side of the engine on my -99 CR-V. Have you got ideas how to make it stop? I've already bought and replaced a new injector o-ring, but it did solve the issue
replace the injectors.
I've had my 98 for a little over a year. Bought it when I decided to start tearing my Miata apart and bring it to full project car status... The CR-V has been great! I've definitely got a couple little issues, but overall these cars are very solid. I discovered lately that my harmonic balancer is pretty torn up, and that's why I've had a bunch of strange noises with my AC running.. this is an issue that's been going on the whole time I've been driving the car, (pretty sure it's the original is why I'm impressed) and I rolled the thing over to 300,000 miles. Honestly, once I replace the HB and replace basically the whole front suspension this will be a 100% solid vehicle again. I've driven Hondas with over 400,000 miles is why I bought the CRV.. my first Honda that I bought, out of necessity, and it is one of my favorite cars I've ever owned.
The things definitely have a bit of charm to them! They make me drive like an adult for once and that's dang refreshing. Otherwise it seems like you can just pile miles onto the things and they are TurnKey reliable as long as you give your due diligence.
Crv's are definitely great multi purpose vehicles
Don't cheap out on the Damper/Pulley. Get a good one. Using the solid aluminum ones will eventially eat your oil pump. Be wary of anyone promoting them.
I’m having the worst trouble with my 2000 Honda CR-V manual. About 4 or 5 months ago, it started stalling at idle and it idled a little rough. About 3 months ago it started stalling why I was driving it. I bought an Ancel OBD2 and it would throw random codes. One day it would say O2 sensor (upstream), then P1399, P0300, and P0301-304 (all cylinders misfiring). One single time it threw P0505 (idle control system), and P0122 (TPS switch A circuit low). There was no rhyme or reason to it, the codes would be here today and gone tomorrow, replaced by a different code. The short term fuel trim was all over the place at idle (-7.0 to -17.6). I checked every single vacuum line for vacuum leak, with an entire can of brake cleaner, but nothing.
We have replaced, O2 sensor, spark plugs, plug wires, distributor cap and rotor, distributor (with new cam sensor), TPS,
and probably half a dozen other things that I can’t remember at the moment.
We drove it to my mechanics, I would only make it a few miles and it would stall. I had to wait 15 minutes, without ever trying to crank it, before it would crank again and go another few more miles. On the last 10 miles, I got in behind a person driving 35mph and it never stalled again, which honestly had me baffled. Anyway he put it in his Snap-on machine and it came up “Temporary Code List, DE0604H/1455032, Refresh To OEM.” So he’s at a loss as well.
Ok, after writing a book about it (sorry about that), the only thing that I believe that can be it is the ECU/ECM.
My husband says that the only thing it needs now is a match in the gas tank. 😒😂
Have you ever experience anything this mysterious with a first Gen CR-V, or am I just having bad luck?
Thank you so much for this video! Possible there's a little differential chatter in the front? I have that chatter on mine but it seems to be coming from the front. My model is manual transmission if it makes a difference.
maaaan i wish i woulda known about this channel 2 yrs ago when i spent months trying to figure out what the clunking noise was on my 99 crv. finally figured out it was the tie rod end. but man, it was such a PITA to figure out exactly what it was.
edit: wow, my clock is broken too! it's been broken for years.
Welcome aboard!
Buy a LED clock off of Amazon that fits inside the casing. Skip the clock battery & wire it to the existing car wiring. Reduce the 12V to under 4V using voltage divider. I used 2 resistors.
I just bought one really cheap and it literally has everything you explained. 😂😂😂 not more not less. I got the clock working for a minute but it failed again.
🤣🤣🤣🤣
I have a 99 CR-V My door wire harness was pinched BAD. 22 WIRES going to the door!. I spliced in a foot of new wires in between....44 connections! Luckily, I was a car audio installer in a previous decade, so it was more pain in the neck than anything else. I'm hoping to install 2 inch spacers soon, and get my baby BACK on the road! The guy that I bought the car from had let a ball joint go for a long time, and it made a seal go in my steering rack, with an endless drip. I'm replacing THAT too. I don't consider that a "common" problem.
I have a Honda CR-V 2001 in New Zealand and they seem to get roof rust under the rubber channels and also around the rear mudguards the one I have for parts has rust in the same areas.
i have a 97 honda crv with a b20b4 engine that has a bad valve lifter can you make a diy video on how to replace a bad lifter cause i dont have $3000 to take it in to the shop to get it fixed plus ive been trying to learn how to fix parts on my car myself and your videos really help me out with that
Great vid cheers from Australia
Thank you
Some other problems that can occur: Axles can break causing clunking from sharp turns. Back window mounts break. Valve stem seals tend to wear out and cause oil to burn and come out the exhaust while idling the car and will eventually clear up when driving. doors mechanisms some times freeze and become stuck shut not a fun time trying to get it to release as if it locks again it will be stuck again. Windshields are prone to rocks xD just in my luck.
Good video, lots of info, im having the issue when driving and i turn i would have to return it to center myself rather than it returning when you let go of the S. wheel, much worst in the highway, hence i've done 2 full wheel alignments but still cant figure it out for the of me.
I haven't seen an issue like that with any here.
For crv's or any vehicle's that are from the north, like me in Canada will have to have the brake lines and fuel lines replaced by now. The plastic guard that protects them, ends up just trapping salty moisture which cause them to rust faster. Also like any vehicle the axles will go, on the crv's the the rubber dampener might come detached and cause some sounds or vibrations.
Yeah I've cut those dampeners off several of them
Yup I'm trying to revive a 99 crv and the brake and gas lines need to be replaced 😅
@@Frost_Tiger ooof, best of luck
@@hondaresource thanks I'm a need all luck I can get it runs and drives but hasn't really moved in years since probably 2017 or 2018 I'm still not sure paint faded and I hope the head isn't blowing 😅
Axles going isnt normal on all vehicles. Never had to replace axles on any ifs f150 or gm 1500 ive driven. Rear axle seals though.
I have two 1st gen CRVs. Both Red. One is AT, the other stick, so we named them Otto and Manuel. Anyways, I would add the upper control arm bushings in the front and lower control arm bushings in the rear. Manuel we have had 10 years, Otto we have had 6 years and they are pretty robust. Manuel had a burned valve for the previous owner and after I got it the vehicle was stolen and came back with a miss...I adjusted the valves and its been great. 219k on one, 239 on the other. MN vehicles...rust in wheel arches other than that they look pretty good.
Oh and both cars had an issue where they would not start Rather than pay big bucks for cap, rotor whatever I just went to Ebay and got a complete distributor ---everything in one fell swoop for like $55. 10 minutes to swap them out and running great
Awesome man! I'm glad to have you here
Was thinking about replacing the struts. Which brand would you choose that gives reasonable performance at a decent cost? What do you think of Monroe?
Hey thanks for the video, I have a 01 crv and I bought it about 2 years ago and I love it even with all the millage "230" it's still running solid but it's doing something that I don't know what it is, ans what it's doing is that the engine stops for no reason even when I'm driving in the middle of the road, then I Have to pull over and let it rest for 15 minutes and then I cracked and it's back to life and it's doing it more and more, I think it's a sensor or gas pump I don't know,
Either main relay or distributor 99.9%
Full distributor or maybe if its hot out vapor lock, weak fuel pump.
Did the same & it was the relay switch
I’m having the same issues. I’m about to change the main relay today and see if it fixes it. Knock on wood! Will update if it fixes it
@@adamtjapkes7804 did it work ?
Thank you for all the information my friend
Question about a 1999bhonda crv automatic
Rebuild transmission should I buy it or decline thank you
The pic in the thumbnail looks just like mine- but mines lifed, love it
The one in the thumbnail is lifted on OME springs. it has 235/75/15 mud tires.
awsome video man thanks!!!!
Thank you!
😎 One thing that was an issue in the first generation was the ignition switch some they warranted others it's a quick fix just swap it out but If you don't the whole car will just shut off.
I've definitely dealt with that issue several times across many of the 90s era Hondas
Great video thanks very much!!!
Glad you enjoyed it!
I bought my '98 CRV in March of that year and it currently has a little over 292k miles under her belt so I'm coming from a place of experience. I've found checking/adjusting the valve clearance every 30k miles to be overkill. I slowly kept extending the intervals to see if it made any difference, I now do it every 50k miles and even at that interval I usually only have to adjust several exhaust valves to the loose side of specs. Last year I replaced the original lower ball joints with the Proforged brand which I've had good luck with when I replaced the outer tie rod ends around five years ago. Another thing to watch is the condition of the rear trailing arm bushings which I replaced last year as well. Great video!
Awesome, yeah I was just going off what Honda recommends
I had my valves adjusted on a '99 CR-V in Canda, and it costed $415.xx CND tax in. I supplied the valve cover/spark plug ring gaskets. I looked under the hood and noticed that it didn't even look different, and I had a certain zip tie holding my ignition wires in place and my ground wire looked the same last time I close the hood and (just did an oil change myself). Should I be suspect?
idk if youll see this but last year I changed the rad, thermostat, and head gasket on my car and also cleaned out the hoses cus they had built up debris inside because my car was overheating last year.. it sort of fixed it but now my car heats up when coming to a stop while on drive then goes back down to normal temps when moving . It also revs up and down to/from 2000RPM when put in park also whenever I use my car for like an hour ( grocery's/shopping ) and try to turn it on to go home it doesnt start until I give it some time to cooldown even tho the gauge doesnt say its hot( my best guess ). I called up my dads mechanic to see if he could get it fixed but hopefully you have some ideas of whats going on so I could be ready to make some suggestions or whatever to him and get my car fixed up soon
You should see all the 1st gen crvs in Canada. They are all notorious for rusting on the back fenders ! About 9/10 I still see on the road have atleast one rusty back fender.
I see a few from time to time with rust, but it's extremely rare
@@hondaresource 15-20 is what they last before rusted frames break, floor boards rotted ectt. Some have holes in wheel wells after 5 years. In Maine , so basically Canada lol
Also a problem I noticed is that when leaves fall into the fresh air vent they start to biodegrade, creating soil that clogs the drain in the pan which causes water to pool and moldy smells.
Nice video love my 99 crv
They are great vehicles!
Many thanks Mister , as usual your video are always useful for me ! A question: (I have a CRV I Y1998 model engine B20B3 ITALY market) Is it frequently in US equivalents models the current distributor problems? I will be grateful for your kind reply. Ciao Nicola from Verona IT
Yessir, we have distributor problems regularly. Generally either the I ignitor or coil
I have a 99 currently having a problem with the windshield wiper fluid tubing replaced the pumps nothing to the windshield, but it started leaking inside the cabin
Replaced those noisy tie rod links on my 01 with 130000 miles on it today only problem I’ve had is the clock doesn’t work
thanks for the video.
I just got a 01 Honda CR-V from my dad. When I turn my car it kinda makes a scratching/whistle sound. You can also hear the whistle sound when you drive. It seems to be coming from the left side under the hood but then again.. I have no clue. Do you know what it could be?
I have 2001 1st generation CRV LX AWD Automatic with 135,000 miles on it, which I bought new in 2001. It’s in pretty good shape. I love this car. I’m hoping to keep it running as long as I do. Thanks for all your great advice. Have you run into issues with vibration sounds coming from the catalytic converter?
Heat shields rusting off?
@@hondaresource no, internal. It causes sort of a “blasting” sound maybe coming out of the exhaust pipe. We (one of my mechanics, although sometimes I do the work myself) think it’s the Catalytic Converter.
@@pwoc94110 I've seen them melt and pieces break loose
I'm getting infected with the itch to buy one of these to compliment my GE Fit Sport and I saw one locally on the classifieds for $1500. Now that price for Puerto Rico is a red flag already, but the ad mentions that the car has a "bad" water pump. Is that something I should just walk away from because of a greater issue(head gasket?) or something a timing belt kit can cure? Great video and thanks for sharing!
I recently bought a manual cr-v 98 in very good condition but with small problems in the electric window system and the roof window does not open, the check engine light also comes on at times, any suggestions?
Nice Information, handy!!!
Thank you
Do you have a video on how to check why the cruise control isn’t working on a 98 Honda CRV LX? Thank you in advance.
My crv struggles to get going after driving a distance and then stopping. Sounds like something not quite connecting for a few seconds - then it revs high and settles . Also the first and second gear a Lee a little clunky. Would that be a bear box on the way out or a clutch issue . If I’m super slow on clutch release it is smooth , but I’ve also been told this is bad driving . ??
Hello boss missed the transmission popping into first gear aggressively. Thx had 2 with same orob
I have a 2000 lx 5 speed grey but no arm rest on the front seats
How about that dreadful ignition switch? I've known for the past year the switch needed replacing, but the problem has morphed into a crank/no start. None of the dash lights come on when key is turned to run or start. There are no fuses blown. The two phillips head screws that hold the plastic contacts/wiring have cammed out on me, so I'm getting ready to dremmel a slot in the breakaway bolt so I can just remove the entire assembly. These screws bring me back to when I had the front of the engine disected for timing belt, water pump, CFS, torque mount and motor mount, and a bunch of other repairs. Someone went crazy with the loctite and used the stuff on fasteners that did not require it, causing me ro round off several bolts, incl. the timing cover and the timing belt tensioner. That tensioner bolt was no joke and required extended work-around, since there wasn't enough room to use the proper "rounded bolt remover" and that bolt being gr. 8 and extremely hard; using a cut off wheel on a dremmel was slow-going. when the bolt finally came out, the loctite had been applied to the entire threaded section. That experience was worse than the crank bolt!!! I remember you answering several questions for me, and on the same day I typed them. Hard to forget about that, since you put me on the right track. I later discovered that the exhaust cam was off by one tooth. I became highly proficient in tearing that B-20 down in record time. The CRV has been running excellent and no further issues until this ignition switch. The first symptoms including the engine dying out at the worst possible time and loss of power steering during the event. It would always restart like nothing happened, and it was random - 2-3 times a month. I was able to duplicate the problem by wiggling the wires and turning the key ever so slightly. Keep up the good work and I hope you and your family are doing well.
Oil leak, assume oil pressure sending unit first if in that area. Rear wheels splay out, adjustable top camber links.
Love your videos ! I live in Michigan and have a 99 CR V that’s got an engine light stuck on but my mechanic guy who works on cars out of his garage says it’s nothing to worry about ? Say what ? He says it’s got to do with gas tank ? Can ya help me ? I may as well go to reg shop have an inspection instead of guessing lol 😂
Most auto parts stores will check the codes for free
Not tightening up the gas cap enough after refilling. Click close at least 3x and after the next few times of refilling gas the engine light may turn off
Thanks excellent video,, 👌
Thank you
what do you know about top hats on a 97 crv specifically , im looking at one w 248k miles. i just need a hooptie and im just concerned ab the too hats based on my research if done right. apparently it could be a big deal to replace. the one i am looking at says it needs it and that’s it not that it is missing but it needs it
Hey there, got an '01 CRV with 147HP. There is an issue with the primary HO2S... Engine runs pretty normal and the sensor works from 0,055 V - 0,8 V ... Sometimes i get the MIL lamp and ECU says P0132 .. Already changed the H2OS ... Any ideas ?? 🙈
Hey thanks for making all these videos! Would appreciate if you could give me some advise if it's not to much trouble. I have a 99 Honda CR-V automatic and oil is getting into spark plug tube 2 and 3. I changed the valve cover gasket and spark plug tube seal but oil is still getting in not sure if it's coming from somewhere else. Could it be the head gasket or valve guide seal?
Only place it can get in is the tube seals on the valve cover
I'm having an issue where i have no battery light coming on at all. Also no voltage from the alternator and the bulb on the dash is good. Any idea?
You made good points of the details between the lx ...ex.. and se... But the downside is that all the parts are interchangeable so yo can have an lx but ex parts could be installed...
I wouldn't consider it a downside. I think it's pretty cool that parts are interchangeable.
Yep.
Can I drive a 2001 Honda CRV AWD without the driveshaft in place from the transfer case to the rear diff? We used to live in NY but moved to Florida so I don't need AWD here. The front tires are getting more worn and I heard if you have tires more worn on the front then the back, you could do damage to the tranny/transfer case.
Thanks for the information. I have an 01 CRV SE with an odd no crank issue when below 10 degrees F. The ignition switch has been replaced, the battery which was old and lost CCA and now the starter. Had the car towed several times to the shop and they keep trying something else. The problem is it only happens when super cold outside. They bring the car in to the shop to troubleshoot and then it starts. It's a crapshoot on what to change.
Besides the starter, battery and ignition switch, what esle could cause no crank in extreme cold?
I thought the starter relay, so I swapped it with another relay in the car... did not affect the issue.
What about the nuetral safety switch?
Or, there was an alarm in the car when I bought it. The siren quit working and it does not work anymore. The remote works to open the doors.
Could it be a relay or Immobilizer tied to that?
Any tips would be greatly appreciated. Thank you. Big Dubz.
The aftermarket alarm may have an effect on it, bypass the starter kill function on it and see if that makes a difference
IVE BEEN SEARCHING YOUR CHANNEL FOR A RACK AND PINION REPLACEMENT VIDEO FOR 1ST GEN 4WD OR POWER STEERING PUMP IF YOU HAVENT MADE THEM YET PLEASE MAKE ONE NO ONE ELSE HAS AN EXCELLENT WAY OF EXPLAINING THE PROCESS LIKE YOU IN THE CORRECT DETAIL. I THINK I KILLED MY POWER STEERING WHEN I PUT IN THE WRONG FLUID AND ITS JUST PISSING FLUID SO I THINK I MAY HAVE TO CHANGE THE WHOLE ASSEMBLY.
Thank you! I haven't made a video for doing the rack and pinion yet. It's not a fun job. I can make on for the pump at some point.
@@hondaresource CAN I USE A POWER STEERING PUMP FROM THE JUNKYARD BECAUSE I PUT REGULAR POWER STEERING FLUID IN MINE AND IT STARTED LEAKING LIKE CRAZY. WOULD I HAVE TO CHANGE THE WHOLE SYSTEM TO INSURE THAT NONE OF THE AMERICAN FLUID IS IN THE SYSTEM?
USE THE BEST JAPAN PARTS YOU CAN FIND!
Use Sankei 555 suspension ball joints, tire, rod, etc. NGK, NSK, NTN, Ishino Stone, etc. You’ll be glad you did.
Solid advice
Thanks for these video's. They're super helpful! I just bought a CRV RD1 and it seems that my door mirrors don't close, could it be that they are fixed or are they definitely jammed? Its a EURO car as I'm based in Malta. Also the sunroof doesn't open, is there a known common fault on those? Thanks
Sunroof wasn't standard equipment here in the US. Usually if I ever see on it's aftermarket installed. I'm not sure if your side mirrors are the same as US or not, but all US versions had a manual folding capability.
I bought a used Honda CR-V radio for my ‘04. Has no tape player. Want to set time but no “time” on any button. Any ideas?