Battery Box Build - Bus Bars : How to make your own custom bus bars
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 19 มิ.ย. 2024
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Hey Everyone! Welcome back to the ElectricSuperCar channel! Today we have a special one 🙂 building some custom bus bars.
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▬ Contents of this video ▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬
0:00 - Intro
3:13 - Component Overview
9:56 - Bus Bar Assembly
13:22 - Isolation Coating
Tags: EV build,electric vehicle build,electric car build,electric car project,electric vehicle conversion,ev conversion,electric supercar,electric hypercar,electricsupercar,electric Porsche,Porsche ev,Porsche GTE,How to build an electric car,how to convert an electric car,electric conversion,Electric car conversion,porsche ev,tesla dual motor build, Bus bar, bus bars, bus bar isolation, bus bar coating, bus bar dipping, bus bar plastidip, bus bar battery, bus bar terminal, how to make bus bars, - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
Check out the EV charger
- Andeman WS1 Wall EV Charger: amzn.to/469i3sR
- Coupon code: ElectricWS15
Cool that you showed all the components in your battery box. Makes it easy to take notes. Lol, almost like I'm in school...
Hey! Power distribution engineer here, great work on those bus bars, one thing I was curious about is your fastener selection for ensuring that the connections don't loosen via thermal cycling. Was wondering what you did there, we usually use KEPS nuts and SEMS hardware with captive spring/belleville washers to allow for some live loading of the joints. With no spring washer (or belleville washer) you can lose a significant amount of preload even after a single thermal cycling event. Adding belleville washers allows you to maintain that preload while also making your bolted joints more elastic/robust against rapid heating and cooling. We also apply krytox to every joint to increase conductivity and decrease resistance. In addition to that we also check for isolation using a machine called a Hioki which essentially does something similar to what your fluke does. I'm assuming the BMS does some isolation monitoring as well? If not, do you have way of detecting an isolation fault? Do you also plan on creating your own high voltage junction box, or do you plan on using one thats off the shelf? Great work, excited to see what comes next!
Thanks for the comment and suggestions!
Industrial Electrician here. You are spot on with the reccomendation of spring/or especially belleville washers to keep tension on the joint. it's also critical to correctly torque those connections as this is one of the most common failure modes I've found while investigating faults.
The Fluke will do a great job for insulation resistance testing. I have also used Avo (Megger) and Metrel for this job, although Hioki make superb PQ Analysis gear. Great comment!
For an insulation monitoring device (IMD) I can recommend an Isometer from Bender. Kind of tricky to set up correctly but very fast and accurate
@@maxitaxie we use that one on our Formula E SAE car. It’s great!
@@ElectricSuperCarhey Jeremy you have inspired me to convert a car to electric. Are you open to consult and offer advise?? Thanks!,
love how much this is also about just finding things out
Thanks!
Man on a mission,
This is how Rimac Automobile starts. I know you will definitely start an ev super car company.... Keep going
Thanks a ton!
I'm glad you're getting nice sponsors! Great content like yours definitely deserve it.
I appreciate it!
Very nice Bus bars! If you have those extras, a cross-section of the copper and coatings would be cool to see. Keep up the good work!👍
Thanks, will do!
Great update Jeremy! THanks for sharing this with us.
Thanks for watching!
I think you should also conduct test if that rubber coating will be able to withstand the bus bar heating problems during battery charging and discharging.
it’s looking awesome! i love the orange! keep it up!!!
Thank you! Will do!
Thanks for the video and Stay safe ✌️.
👍
Holy R&D effort Jeremy! Somehow you kept really good notes from the last build “next time I do this I should….” Nicely done!!
Thanks!
It still amazes me the amount of work required for safety. Great work on those bus bars!
Thanks!
Pretty satisfying click on those "bulkhead" connectors 👍
Right?!
Thanks Jeremy for continuing to share your learning! It’s very nice to see the new toys. Making a good battery box is next on my list for the eMiata.
More to come!
Any thoughts of starting your own EV conversion business? You certainly have the skills for it.
Sure! You got a car and a pile of cash?
Some great connector ASMR going on in this video. I think the 21/31 pin twist lock was my fave, but all of them have very satisfying sounds and mechanisms.
I totally agree!
Not only do the thin rubber gloves protect you but also protect the bus bars and batteries from the oils in your skin that can have a negative impact with conductivity over time if I’m not mistaken. Or maybes that’s only when welding cell taps?
Whoever designed your new charger was clearly a big fan of our 2nd Amendment. You just gotta draw your gun to stop the charging. LOL
Great series! Good job with the build
Thanks!
looking forward to the next episodes! Great work!
More to come!
Very clean.
Thanks!
Little heads up: i saw you using a 3rd party screen recorder. So i wanted to let you know that samsung has a built in Screen recorder. You may have to add the quick toggle tho.
Nice!
Samsung for the win!🙂
@@learsiyenohams21 user here
@@learsiyenohammost new phones have that
@@learsiyenohamnot going to lie I hate Samsung's Android skin. It's clunkier than default Android and has a bunch of bloat you cannot uninstall
Awesome!
Thank you! Cheers!
Cheers Jeremy! 👍💪✌
Thanks for the comment!
Elecctricity is starting to cost so much that it might be time to experiment with alternate fuel sources like ethanol or wood fired steam. that would be a fun projet, the wood fired supercar!
Better double check how this coating handles heat during fast charging.
awesome🔥🔥🔥
Thanks 🔥
👍
Thanks for the comment
Awesome ✌🏻✌🏻✌🏻
I don't have that much knowledge but you should check that bus bar coating melting point as per your requirement. It's just a opinion.
You are doing great👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Keep it up 💪🏻💪🏻💪🏻
Thanks for the info
Your getting good at TH-cam
I wish!
Very nice video, is the charger three phase connection? The buss bars look great. Can you put the place where you got the connections. Awesome job coating the bus bars.
Charger episode coming soon!
Great video. I like all your detailed steps. However, I am glad I am not doing electric! 😁 Maybe someday...
Thanks for the comment!
lolll that works in reaql time a few times than the issolation is damaged on the rench ;)
Hope you've spot-checked some of those bars to ensure there is actually copper in them..........
Yep
2:22 can't actually quote it because of google censors, but I think something got lost in translation. "Draw your xxx if you need to stop charging" HAHA!! All your base are belong to us!
LOL!
Loving the build! Do you have a link to where you got the high voltage connectors?
Added to the video description
That looks great! Did you actually check the cooper purity on those bars? ...I ordered from China before 😏
Not yet!
*Copper.
So you go for a full custom busbar setup and do not account for needing use tools to fasten the busbars to the modules. End up hiding the nuts under the busbars and making it impossible to properly torque these to spec.
Always use some sockets in CAD and tools to ensure you do not run into issues like these.
Noted
Most powder coats are electrically insulating. That would have been easier to apply and much more durable. Something to consider for future components.
Interesting!
I enjoy the content. Did I miss any job search updates? I that old news or an unpleasant subject?
Still unemployed
How much was weight a consideration when deciding to go with bus bars vs cables? I can imagine the bus bar solution to be heavier?
It is probably about the same either way as you need the same amount of copper to carry the current. This way I do not have to cut cables and crimp connectors (failure points). I think this way is easier and cleaner.
I thought you sold the K1 attack? Why is it back in your garage in the start of the video?
(Awesome video btw)
No serious buyers
In an ideal world, you'd make your next build all wheel drive with a motor at each wheel. Have your people look into that.
My people? It is just me. What motors would you suggest to run?
@@ElectricSuperCar That’s all in the “looking into it”.
Any chance you could add the P/N and supplier info for the 2-way and 6-way HV bulkhead/panel connectors to your description section? Thanks!
Added to the video description
@@ElectricSuperCar Super! Thanks! My EV conversion project is also a Porsche.
@@fraserbrock nice!
Great video mate. Might need an insulation resistance tester. It puts a nominated voltage through the leads and reads any leakage through the insulation. Although your system is only extra low voltage you have quite a lot of current running through it. DC likes to arc. You can make an arc welder with a couple of batteries 👍
💜️💜️💜️
Thanks!
Is it just me or would the GTE logo look better if the 3 was flipped around vertical axis rather than rotated?
How are you using those Deutsch connectors for a 400V system? They are only rated for 250V. For a 400V system, 600V connectors are recommended.
Each of my battery box segments only contains ~125V differential
@@ElectricSuperCar Copy that. Thank you for the update.
👋👍
Thanks!
Having to start a charge with the app is a baffling design choice. I hope that behavior is configurable in the app.
If I have to draw my gun to stop charging, I doubt it's going to be able to charge going forward. Tuya app they are using too
Wouldn't solid bars be difficult to properly connect together.
They are so thick which means if surfaces are not perfectly flat, then conductivity is dependent on just small spots on the surface.
If you have more clarification please tell us in the next episode.
Can do. Copper is pretty easy to bend. When bolts are torqued conductive surfaces are happy to go together flat and have in-between sections bend
Where’d you get your Deutsch connectors?
Wirecare.com. It is a good site
I don't know if you addressed the question of the batteries you are using for this project, the why these cells and not Tesla or other cells?
Just for you!
th-cam.com/video/tFOPTWkAJcQ/w-d-xo.html
I'm wondering, you're connecting the batteries together, are those in parallel or in series? It sure seems like a series setup. Worst case scenario you were working on 240v dc 😅
Worst case is 2 in series and 2 in parallel (50V DC)
@ElectricSuperCar This sounds wrong to me. If (theoretically) you would only draw 100kW ( ~136 horse power) at 50V DC that would require 2000A! sounds very unrealistic. So I guess @glennschuurman8428 is right, you were most probably working with way higher DC voltage overall. And also your "safety gloves" look very thin. Proper electrical safety gloves usually are way thicker. The gloves you wear look like medical gloves to me which easily get pierced by sharp metal edges.
Not sure where you are getting your numbers from? In this episode, I am only working with 50V DC which is generally considered safe to handle without any gloves. My full battery pack, once properly connected, will be 400V.
@@ElectricSuperCar so you never had more than one busbar installed at a time? Then this would make more sense to me. You never connected all packs in series
@@ElectricSuperCar But it dont hurt to have safety glasses and use isoleted tools. If you short a battery that can deliver unlimited amps you can get nasty sparks. Also remove your watch it can short out.
Is there a torque spec for the nuts and bolt for this?
Not really. Thread locker and really tight so they don't come loose.
@@ElectricSuperCar noted. Anyways, happy for this video. I always assumed the rubberized coating was heat shrink. Now I know a technique that is comparable.
After 17:25 everything is rubbericed. Trees, gras, house, neighbours house, the cat…
LOL!
what's the info for the battery module?
Just for you!
th-cam.com/video/tFOPTWkAJcQ/w-d-xo.html
If you try car side DIY chademo?
Planning on CCS
@@ElectricSuperCar CCS is good if you do please upload video! I want to try my car!
Video coming soon!
Draw your gun LOL.
Your insulation testing does not work with a household multimeter you need to measure it with an insulation tester that generates atleast your max system voltage to get a correct reading.
That is what I did with 1000V which is higher than my planned system (400V)
@@ElectricSuperCar This is not what you show in your video.
Timestamp 19:17 I say I am testing at 1000V.
@@ElectricSuperCar 18:48 you say standard meter, you switch to the other meter which is not really in frame this is why I must have missed this.
Algorithm comment .........yet again 🤣
Thanks for the view
Hmm.... Connecting the batteries together, don't you think, you should use a product to prevent the screws and nuts from coming loose from vibration?? Lock tight!
Yep, that is on there
First!
Boom!