Hello again, your videos are great and has helped me a lot. I have a question, Why on the side of the Masters there are notches for the lever, but on my master the lever doesn't go complete over the top notch. When i push the lever up, the lever stops right under the top notch. Is there a way to sit the lever so it sits right on the notch and not under it?
I just watched your other video of how to give the machine a tune-up. It worked like a charm. I should’ve watched this one too, but I was able to get the zero gap also by using a Dremel’s cutting wheel to take off the safety lip from the trigger’s housing bracket. The trigger now fully swings front to back and the teeth zero out but I always wondered why it didn’t come like this out of the box?
Great tutorial as always breddah. I like how you even soften your voice when explaining tightening the torque (star) screws, to accentuate the need to be gentle lol. Thx
It would be helpful if you could provide 1) which Torx bit size you need and 2) How much torque to tighten the torx screws back so that it does not loosen up over time. And when adjusting the top blade wouldn't it be easy to rest the edge of the blade on a flat surface while tightening the 2 philips screws?
Just bought my first Masters, New, but I noticed when moving the lever back & forth. I can feel a bit of metal rubbing. I'm not sure if this is normal or is it due to self sharpening? Everything I have prior is Wahl & none of them rub. It sounds like the blades are rubbing, but I cannot visually see it, so it could be in-between the blades, but again is this normal or possibly being over tightened during production? Any help is help, thx & also is it possible to just buy a Fade Master blade for the Regular Masters or is it a totally different shape, that doesn't allow the sync?
!["สนธิ" ห่วงมีขบวนการปกป้อง "ทนายตั้ม" : [THE MESSAGE]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/2GQNp3EoMc0/mqdefault.jpg)
Hello again, your videos are great and has helped me a lot. I have a question, Why on the side of the Masters there are notches for the lever, but on my master the lever doesn't go complete over the top notch. When i push the lever up, the lever stops right under the top notch. Is there a way to sit the lever so it sits right on the notch and not under it?
Johnny David watch my master video on loose levers that may hold the answer
@@larrythebarberman ok will do, I wish I could send you a pict of mine
@@johnnydavid9832 Did find the video and have you fixed it?
IF NOT EMAIL ME @frequency60hzconverter@gmail.com
@@larrythebarberman there not one of what im looking for. just how to fix the arm. Thank anyways...
Listen to this man here, he has a wealth of knowledge about how to improve the products we already love. Great video like always!
Thank you for your vote of confidence my friend
Again great detail! Has pin point display examples!!
Great tutorial Larry. Clean, simple and easy to understand. Thank you.
I just watched your other video of how to give the machine a tune-up. It worked like a charm. I should’ve watched this one too, but I was able to get the zero gap also by using a Dremel’s cutting wheel to take off the safety lip from the trigger’s housing bracket. The trigger now fully swings front to back and the teeth zero out but I always wondered why it didn’t come like this out of the box?
Great tutorial as always breddah. I like how you even soften your voice when explaining tightening the torque (star) screws, to accentuate the need to be gentle lol. Thx
Aadil Mohammed who Breddah? I thought his name was Larry
@@RalphLBaer Breddah is how we pronounce brother in the Caribbean.
thanks for the video larry it help me so much praise god
Where can I buy a high grade Phil’s screw driver like yours?
It would be helpful if you could provide 1) which Torx bit size you need and 2) How much torque to tighten the torx screws back so that it does not loosen up over time. And when adjusting the top blade wouldn't it be easy to rest the edge of the blade on a flat surface while tightening the 2 philips screws?
hi larry . id like to know if zeroing the gap will hit the clippers bladewill hit the combs. thank you
not with regular masters blade, no!!
Thank's Larry you came through big time!
Rick wow! Thanks 🤓
Just bought my first Masters, New, but I noticed when moving the lever back & forth. I can feel a bit of metal rubbing. I'm not sure if this is normal or is it due to self sharpening? Everything I have prior is Wahl & none of them rub. It sounds like the blades are rubbing, but I cannot visually see it, so it could be in-between the blades, but again is this normal or possibly being over tightened during production? Any help is help, thx & also is it possible to just buy a Fade Master blade for the Regular Masters or is it a totally different shape, that doesn't allow the sync?
well done thank you.
great video thanks damn that is alot of adapters to get that thing going ahah
Great thanks
hi! i've got the problem, after zerogappin my master. the guards, purple ones, with 2 magnets - clipper starts to chew them. any ideas??? thank you
That's a known problem with Zeroing out these clippers. I use the fade for the closer tapers and my Wahl Seniors for the basic layering.
same thing happened with me. you can't zero gap the Master and add a guard. The guard needs a small gap between the two blades to operate.
I zero gapped my masters and now the blade doesn't even move! The motor sounds like it seized up! Can you tell me what the problem is??
How did u fix it? I have the same problem
How do i put it back to normal and not zero gap?
Exactly the same way but in reverse with 2mm gap,I guess