Oh my goodness... If someone like Mr Idahoan is able to build such a complex metalworking device he knows who Mr Morse with his tapers and also factory was and you can be sure he is just playing with words. Well done Mr. Idahoan show.. I never saw a better homemade rifling device with such a widespread possibility of use.
Such an elegant (almost ironic) juxtaposition of sophisticated precision machining and that thumpy bumpy sledge hammer on an old stump. I love it. One uniquely interesting human being.
that rifling looks absolutely beautiful. you are an artist man. also ive been looking for a setup like that for a long time for machining my own helical end mills without any CNC. thanks for making this video.
A unique and fascinating rifling pattern. I would suggest replacing the friction belt with a gear belt. If the friction belt slips, you mess up your spiral. And swapping out gear pulleys makes it possible to quick change twist rates.
Turned out wonderfully. I was surprised that it pounded through so uniformly helical. Love your machining equipment - great 'Norris Chuck' . Appreciated that editing you did too - made it quick while saving the coolness of the machining process in fast motion. And yes sound was much better. Thanks.
@@Igotknobblies lol that's what I was thinking. They wouldn't even need one of those comparator machines they use, you could just look down the bore, look at the bullet, and go "yup this is the one".
A good way to drive a button with a short stroke press is to get some hardened steel dowel pins about 2" long and one size smaller diameter than the bore. Run one in all the way, then stack another on top of it, and so on till you are all the way through. I've seen buttons shatter trying to drive them with a hammer.
Audio is a great improvement, I am in the process of building a small recording studio myself and it definitely steps up the total quality. Great video as well.
really great one. is there anything to consider at the hardening process? how do you know when its enough? can you tell something about that i mean the hardening in general
All I did to harden it was heat it up until it glowed bright orange and then cool it off with compressed air until it was cool enough to touch. This heat treating method may not be very scientific, but it seems to work ok on rifling buttons made from A2 tool steel.
Man I absolutely love your setup that you have on the mill with that indexer thats cool as hell ill have to get me a set up like that for my mill iv been thinking about doing something like that for awhile now. Good work keep it up look forward to see more of your work be safe
I am not sure if the lack of any reverb or the slow frame rate of the rendered video is more disturbing, but I have found in live audio recording some reverb and noise is fitting with the surrounding visual ambiance to make it sound more realistic.Also, I was thinking the reverb was a contributory stylistic effect. It is a little excessive and may be overly distracting. You could control it with some inexpensive evaporative cooler pads, burlap... spread around your recording area to break up hard flat acoustically reflective surfaces. You could be surprised with how little is needed to reduce it to an acceptable level.
Can you do a more in dept video on how you figured the pulley size to time the turn. I truly love how you made this and i want to learn more. Thank you
Brilliant,,,,,simply brilliant.I have a workshop and I have often given thought to this job of rifling barrels.The use of a mill and the way you connected it to the table feed is just pure genius.Perhaps you show how to alter the system for making helical cogs?I needed a helical cog a while back and although I managed to make it work, it was in fact a dogs breakfast.The cost of getting helical cogs made is massive, real expensive. Your fantastic idea could produce these cogs very nicely.Rarely I say this,,,,,,,,,,I AM impressed
I'm currently building a similar thing to this, although I'm controlling mine using an arduino and stepper motor. It takes an input from the DRO scale and for every certain number of pulses (13 for roughly 1:16" with 5um scales and 1/32 Microsteping) it will send a pulse to the Microstep driver and stepper motor. I'll make sure to record it and upload a video of it to TH-cam.
Fitting a button to a bore/bullet: ABOUT how much 'oversize' does the button need to be to leave proper size Grooves in the barrel? Will 1 or 2 thou be enough to press the groove to finish 'correct' diameter for caliber, or does it need more than that (ignoring the bore/lands for the moment).
Another awesome video. I want to make an internal throttle assembly for a motorcycle build I’m doing. It needs a long helical cut on a a piece of tubing. This was the answer.😄 I’m going to start drawing up plans for my mill.
I am interested in acquiring a small device like that you created, but for a 38 caliber, or 357 barrel, which is the same, could you make me one, and what would its value be?
very impressed with your work . I need to make a chamber reamer 17 hmr....I have the machines to make one but not the experience . ,do you have a video on making a chamber reamer.?
I don't think I've ever made a video about making a chambering reamer, per se, but I do have a video on making a simple cylindrical reamer: th-cam.com/video/ILaT3vFgEKM/w-d-xo.html The process for a chambering reamer would be pretty much the same, except the shape of the reamer would be more complex--basically the shape of the cartridge.
Excellent work! I'm impressed with how well the rifling came out, but you might consider revising the design of your spiral drive from using pulleys to using gears. Reason being that in the even that you get oil or grease on either the pulleys or the belt they will slip and the helical path will become irregular and unpredictable.
Good suggestion, I was thinking about belt slip also. When I built my CNC router, (video on my channel) I wanted to have the option to change ratios on the leadscrew drives, with no slip. I used cheap nylon timing belt pulleys from SDP/SI in Hyde Park, New York. Nothing in the main setup would have to change, just order the pulleys with the right size hubs in the desired ratio combinations, and pop on the timing belt.
I had a great idea that makes the expense of timing pulleys and belts unnecessary, and greatly simplifies the setup. If twist is one in 9, for example, make a pulley with circumference of 9 (pi x diameter = circumference). This pulley is attached directly to the workpiece chuck. 1/16 in steel cable is anchored to the pulley and wrapped around it the number of times needed for the length of the workpiece. The cable then goes through a idler pulley mounted to the table angled such that the cable now goes in the same direction of table travel. The end of the cable is anchored to a stationary surface. Now, as table moves forward, the cable is unspooled from the pulley that is attached to the workpiece. This works in only one direction, of course, but a little ingenuity will lead to a cable coming off both sides of the pulley, anchored in the opposite direction as the first one. For perfect accuracy, subtract the diameter of the cable from the diameter of the pulley.
Add a roll pin to your bar stock to index on your chuck jaw for an accurate position for a second button. Leave them connected to cut 6 equal spaced grooves.
Fantastic work sir, can you make me a button that will refresh the rifling on a 1853 enfield musket that has been board out for shooting shot? Please the rifling is only just a shadow now. Regards
hello there could you suggest the complete list of CNC milling/ lathe machines needed to manufacture a complete rifle and its parts also a rough estimate of how much it would cost, Thank you.
Well, it depends. If you just want to build a single rifle, you don't necessarily need CNC. A good metal lathe and a basic milling machine would about do it (plus a few assorted hand tools like a hack saw, screw drivers, etc). I don't have any CNC machines at this point; I'd guess I spent about $15k on machinery for my shop, but I bought all brand-new equipment and what I bought isn't necessarily the bare minimum for gunsmithing. I expect you could keep the cost less than $10k if you needed to (potentially a lot less, depending on the level of precision and repeatability required). On the other hand, if by 'manufacture a rifle' you mean actually mass produce a rifle of a given design, then you would need CNC machines and/or other forms of automation. I would guess that setting up a very basic production line would cost at least $200k, and potentially a whole lot more, depending on the level of precision and the volume of production required.
guess you should be using timing belts with tooths instead of v belts for syncing purposes. non toothed belts are intended for power transmission and have a slip so you might lose sync between the input shaft and the output shaft.
Seen several of your videos. You are very talented sir. I do have questions:1) Why do you cool the metal with an air nozzle instead of quenching it in water ? 2) What material did you use to the make the buttons ? 3) Do you think kasnite hardened mild steel quenched in water would be hard enough for a button ? THX for any replies because I know this is an old posting.
Oops--you're right, it is a morse taper, not a morris taper that is used on drill chucks, but oh well, it still made for a comical play on words. Morse sounds a lot like 'Morris' when you say it out loud, and I guess I've heard it spoken more than I've seen it in print.
Actually, if you follow the principle of advancing the letter by one you would get a "Norse" chuck. Conjures visions of Vikings. Sort of a modern, hi tech Thor, God of Thunder, or in this case, thunder stick, replacing swords with guns. (I gotta switch to decaf.)
Yeah, I realized after I posted this that I had misspelled "Morse." Maybe I should have called this a "Norse Chuck" instead, but that might have been confusing, since it was made in Idaho, not Scandinavia. And in terms of the play on words, that begs the question: was there ever a viking named "Chuck Norse?"
what steel is that barrel made of,? is it of 4140? I would like to make a button for a muzzle loader barrel, I also watched your video on deep hole drilling... very fasinating. one of my favorite channels please keep them coming.
The term hammer forged rifling usually refers to rifling produced by forging the outside of a smooth-bored barrel down onto a mandrel that has a mirror image of the rifling on it. This would be considered a form of button rifling.
Great video. It is so refreshing to find a presenter that doesn't repeat himself endlessly - making a six minute video go 30 minutes long. Thanks!!
Great job. Working myself in the machine tool business for over 30 years and always appreciate to see great solutions!
I hear that Norris chuck is so strong, it actually holds the world, and spins it around the workpiece.
Love the audio improvement.
Oh my goodness... If someone like Mr Idahoan is able to build such a complex metalworking device he knows who Mr Morse with his tapers and also factory was and you can be sure he is just playing with words.
Well done Mr. Idahoan show.. I never saw a better homemade rifling device with such a widespread possibility of use.
the world needs more people like you, I love your videos, keep them coming
that right there is why i love youtube. it is incredible to see what people can come up with. very well done
Amazing quality and great work.
Such an elegant (almost ironic) juxtaposition of sophisticated precision machining and that thumpy bumpy sledge hammer on an old stump. I love it. One uniquely interesting human being.
This type of video is why I'm a subscriber. The sound quality never bothered me before, but now it is more professional. Keep up the good work.
Thanks for your effort, the sound is much better indeed. Thanks for sharing your "experiments"
Sound is much better now, thanks! And thank you for all the work you put into these videos!
Great content and the 'I can do it' approach is a breath of fresh air.
What a character, what a nice guy, what a machinist, we need more of this guy in the world.
Most people would go to the hardware store for a pulley. This guy makes one in less time than going to store. Kudos mate!
that rifling looks absolutely beautiful. you are an artist man. also ive been looking for a setup like that for a long time for machining my own helical end mills without any CNC. thanks for making this video.
Very creative use of the equipment. Thanks again for linking me to this.
You're welcome!
Sound is much better, and the rifling is beautiful
A unique and fascinating rifling pattern. I would suggest replacing the friction belt with a gear belt. If the friction belt slips, you mess up your spiral. And swapping out gear pulleys makes it possible to quick change twist rates.
Yes, toothed pulleys and a timing belt to give positive drive would be better.
To say I'm jealous of this set up is an understatement, there is very few things you can't make with this.
Turned out wonderfully. I was surprised that it pounded through so uniformly helical. Love your machining equipment - great 'Norris Chuck' . Appreciated that editing you did too - made it quick while saving the coolness of the machining process in fast motion. And yes sound was much better. Thanks.
El mejor video que he visto para hacer estrias manualmente. Exelente video.
Wow your mistake with the rifling spacing looks really nice, like a signature. Beautiful.
Thank you!
Richard Smith girar la pantall
Don't use it in crime.... The forensics will pin it on you in a jiffy with thumb print rifling like this!
😂😂😂😂
@@Igotknobblies lol that's what I was thinking. They wouldn't even need one of those comparator machines they use, you could just look down the bore, look at the bullet, and go "yup this is the one".
some mighty clean rifling! also the "Norris Chuck" is pretty novel, well done.
wow, driving the rifling button with a hammer was a crazy idea for me, but it worked pretty well! thanks for sharing!
Excellent craftsmanship Sir.
Thank you!
Man I knew Chuck Norris was tough, but this is next level!!!
Very interesting. I've always wondered how you rifle a barrel. I really like the Norris Chuck set up.
now this rifling looks damn good. so much talent.
Very good idea and machining of fish. Congratulations. Angel
you're the exact type of person,
who made america,
the wonderful place,
it is.
Thank you! I am flattered!
molly clock ..... good one i like your attitude i would be flattered also.
good point
：）
So an immigrant, slave or native american?
I dont know how you don't have 1,000,000+ subscribers.
A good way to drive a button with a short stroke press is to get some hardened steel dowel pins about 2" long and one size smaller diameter than the bore. Run one in all the way, then stack another on top of it, and so on till you are all the way through. I've seen buttons shatter trying to drive them with a hammer.
Audio is a great improvement, I am in the process of building a small recording studio myself and it definitely steps up the total quality. Great video as well.
Damn that rifling is beautiful
Any bullet would be proud to spin it's way down that barrel.
Sounds great and the barrel is killing!
Great work that looked like some cool rifling who know what we come up with during our experiments it’s always interesting.
How do you determine the twist rate? Just by changing some pulleys I guess? Great video and process, I wish I had the means to do the same.
really great one. is there anything to consider at the hardening process? how do you know when its enough? can you tell something about that i mean the hardening in general
All I did to harden it was heat it up until it glowed bright orange and then cool it off with compressed air until it was cool enough to touch. This heat treating method may not be very scientific, but it seems to work ok on rifling buttons made from A2 tool steel.
Nice job, l have very poor hearing so it is very good to hear a clear voice and excellent English. Thanks
Man I absolutely love your setup that you have on the mill with that indexer thats cool as hell ill have to get me a set up like that for my mill iv been thinking about doing something like that for awhile now. Good work keep it up look forward to see more of your work be safe
Your shop is amazing. You are a very lucky man my friend.
Edit: interesting the high # of views....must the the Chuck Norris connection.
Beautiful job! Great improvement in sound quality! so stoked to see this in action
I am not sure if the lack of any reverb or the slow frame rate of the rendered video is more disturbing, but I have found in live audio recording some reverb and noise is fitting with the surrounding visual ambiance to make it sound more realistic.Also, I was thinking the reverb was a contributory stylistic effect. It is a little excessive and may be overly distracting. You could control it with some inexpensive evaporative cooler pads, burlap... spread around your recording area to break up hard flat acoustically reflective surfaces. You could be surprised with how little is needed to reduce it to an acceptable level.
"naming a chuck 'norris' just seemed appropriate somehow"
absolute legend
That rifling like that look like it may be very accurate. Thumbs up.
Can you do a more in dept video on how you figured the pulley size to time the turn. I truly love how you made this and i want to learn more. Thank you
This is a very interesting video! Well done!
Perfectly! Wonderful machine! Several gadgets - and you can cut small trunks with better quality right on it!
Brilliant,,,,,simply brilliant.I have a workshop and I have often given thought to this job of rifling barrels.The use of a mill and the way you connected it to the table feed is just pure genius.Perhaps you show how to alter the system for making helical cogs?I needed a helical cog a while back and although I managed to make it work, it was in fact a dogs breakfast.The cost of getting helical cogs made is massive, real expensive. Your fantastic idea could produce these cogs very nicely.Rarely I say this,,,,,,,,,,I AM impressed
Thank you! Yes, I would think you could use a system like this to make helical gears. I will have to give that a try one of these days.
I'm currently building a similar thing to this, although I'm controlling mine using an arduino and stepper motor. It takes an input from the DRO scale and for every certain number of pulses (13 for roughly 1:16" with 5um scales and 1/32 Microsteping) it will send a pulse to the Microstep driver and stepper motor. I'll make sure to record it and upload a video of it to TH-cam.
I read somewhere that the rifling button needs further stress relief from the metal. would it be necessary in a low powered caliber?
Fitting a button to a bore/bullet: ABOUT how much 'oversize' does the button need to be to leave proper size Grooves in the barrel? Will 1 or 2 thou be enough to press the groove to finish 'correct' diameter for caliber, or does it need more than that (ignoring the bore/lands for the moment).
You make it look so easy. Nice.
Did I miss something? How did you rotate the cutter to make the spiral?
The blades of the cutter were made slightly helical (the whole point of the mod on the mill) so when he pounded it through the tube it rotated itself
Another awesome video. I want to make an internal throttle assembly for a motorcycle build I’m doing. It needs a long helical cut on a a piece of tubing. This was the answer.😄 I’m going to start drawing up plans for my mill.
How did it go mate? I have 1968 CZ with that style of throttle. How did you do an internal cut in a tube with a mill????
That was the coolest GUN ANYTHING I’ve ever seen!!!
how do you get moris or noris from the word morse. Morse tapers are numbered pertaining to size
I am interested in acquiring a small device like that you created, but for a 38 caliber, or 357 barrel, which is the same, could you make me one, and what would its value be?
Good to see a good old Idaho boy making things with his hands
Happy to oblige!
very impressed with your work . I need to make a chamber reamer 17 hmr....I have the machines to make one but not the experience . ,do you have a video on making a chamber reamer.?
I don't think I've ever made a video about making a chambering reamer, per se, but I do have a video on making a simple cylindrical reamer: th-cam.com/video/ILaT3vFgEKM/w-d-xo.html
The process for a chambering reamer would be pretty much the same, except the shape of the reamer would be more complex--basically the shape of the cartridge.
I like to make .22 air rife barrel what size will i use for the barrel for eg 4.4mm or 5mm ID and which button size can you please help me
The rifling came out so clean...
Excellent work! I'm impressed with how well the rifling came out, but you might consider revising the design of your spiral drive from using pulleys to using gears. Reason being that in the even that you get oil or grease on either the pulleys or the belt they will slip and the helical path will become irregular and unpredictable.
Good suggestion, I was thinking about belt slip also. When I built my CNC router, (video on my channel) I wanted to have the option to change ratios on the leadscrew drives, with no slip. I used cheap nylon timing belt pulleys from SDP/SI in Hyde Park, New York. Nothing in the main setup would have to change, just order the pulleys with the right size hubs in the desired ratio combinations, and pop on the timing belt.
I had a great idea that makes the expense of timing pulleys and belts unnecessary, and greatly simplifies the setup. If twist is one in 9, for example, make a pulley with circumference of 9 (pi x diameter = circumference). This pulley is attached directly to the workpiece chuck. 1/16 in steel cable is anchored to the pulley and wrapped around it the number of times needed for the length of the workpiece. The cable then goes through a idler pulley mounted to the table angled such that the cable now goes in the same direction of table travel. The end of the cable is anchored to a stationary surface. Now, as table moves forward, the cable is unspooled from the pulley that is attached to the workpiece.
This works in only one direction, of course, but a little ingenuity will lead to a cable coming off both sides of the pulley, anchored in the opposite direction as the first one.
For perfect accuracy, subtract the diameter of the cable from the diameter of the pulley.
Add a roll pin to your bar stock to index on your chuck jaw for an accurate position for a second button. Leave them connected to cut 6 equal spaced grooves.
Fantastic work sir, can you make me a button that will refresh the rifling on a 1853 enfield musket that has been board out for shooting shot? Please the rifling is only just a shadow now. Regards
What kind of steel do you use for the barrel?
How do you come up with the twist rate for your barrel? Is that determined by the angle of the button?
Yes. The angle of the grooves in the button determines the twist rate.
hello there could you suggest the complete list of CNC milling/ lathe machines needed to manufacture a complete rifle and its parts also a rough estimate of how much it would cost, Thank you.
Well, it depends. If you just want to build a single rifle, you don't necessarily need CNC. A good metal lathe and a basic milling machine would about do it (plus a few assorted hand tools like a hack saw, screw drivers, etc). I don't have any CNC machines at this point; I'd guess I spent about $15k on machinery for my shop, but I bought all brand-new equipment and what I bought isn't necessarily the bare minimum for gunsmithing. I expect you could keep the cost less than $10k if you needed to (potentially a lot less, depending on the level of precision and repeatability required). On the other hand, if by 'manufacture a rifle' you mean actually mass produce a rifle of a given design, then you would need CNC machines and/or other forms of automation. I would guess that setting up a very basic production line would cost at least $200k, and potentially a whole lot more, depending on the level of precision and the volume of production required.
good ! if i want buy it. where's your shop? i looking for 22lr chamber reamer
Can't hear an echo, so much improved.
have you watched the Q&A on InrangeTV with Faxon barrels see like the thing you'd like and this reminded me of that talk
First video, already a subscriber; keep up the good work!
I noticed you did not use a cogged belt & pulley. How did you keep the table feed and the rotary head in time?
Well, I haven't had any trouble with the belt slipping yet, and as long as the belt doesn't slip, the timing is preserved.
Very Good Video. Now the question. HOW do you get your equipment cleaned up after you use it? Maybe you ought to make a video about that?
My following questions. Is did you twisted the bottom rifle while you where getting hot or you just template's to getting harder
guess you should be using timing belts with tooths instead of v belts for syncing purposes. non toothed belts are intended for power transmission and have a slip so you might lose sync between the input shaft and the output shaft.
holy, I am watching this 6 years later and came back to say the same thing just to see that I already said it, lol
Impressive work, stay at it!
Seen several of your videos. You are very talented sir. I do have questions:1) Why do you cool the metal with an air nozzle instead of quenching it in water ? 2) What material did you use to the make the buttons ? 3) Do you think kasnite hardened mild steel quenched in water would be hard enough for a button ? THX for any replies because I know this is an old posting.
probably an air hardening tool steel like a-2
@@ronalddavis Thx for the reply. I'll have to look that up.
You are so Amazing, Scary Smart. And God Bless you Sir!!!
Thank you!
i am rgsven 35yrs retired machinist...proud of you dude!
but listen....morse taper ...get
a machinist handbook.
Oops--you're right, it is a morse taper, not a morris taper that is used on drill chucks, but oh well, it still made for a comical play on words. Morse sounds a lot like 'Morris' when you say it out loud, and I guess I've heard it spoken more than I've seen it in print.
Actually, if you follow the principle of advancing the letter by one you would get a "Norse" chuck. Conjures visions of Vikings. Sort of a modern, hi tech Thor, God of Thunder, or in this case, thunder stick, replacing swords with guns. (I gotta switch to decaf.)
Regaleme un cañón de rifle calibre 22
Hello friend, I would like to know what kind of steel you made this pipe is what this caliber, I thank you from now.
Great video thank you for sharing, yes the audio was much better my ears thank you as well.
Nice video and work!
Very very cool! Im super jealous and your super badass! Haha thanks for sharing !!
What metal did you use for the buttons?
Do you have an idea for a hydraulic ram?
A2 tool steel. As to the hydraulic ram: th-cam.com/video/nq2Bc2WDsLA/w-d-xo.html
unreal Skills you have Sir!
Great job, great sound, great video!!
The best part of this video is imagining you calling a tool supplier asking for tools with a "morris" taper.
Yeah, I realized after I posted this that I had misspelled "Morse." Maybe I should have called this a "Norse Chuck" instead, but that might have been confusing, since it was made in Idaho, not Scandinavia. And in terms of the play on words, that begs the question: was there ever a viking named "Chuck Norse?"
Where are you getting the "i" in morse?
I would have mentioned something similar, till I saw this post......Amen.
What kinda steel u used and what tool u used for the barrel inside please more info on that kit inwant to order this so badd!!
Sound is fine :) Awesome videos! Greetings from Sweden.
Thank you for sharing this. Really helped me out.
Great vid 👍
Bom dia Irmão, onde encontro essa ferramenta pra comprar?
how do you get that 3-sided button to spin x amount of degrees inside the tube? also,how did you mike that button?
The button is machined with the desired amount of twist, so the angle of the lands forces it to rotate as it is driven down the barrel.
One question, how much does the envelope have for a short gun, I mean turn by length, and how many stretch marks?
Hey Tim, how about a video on the math used to make the Norris Chuck rotate the proper speed to provide a proper helical.....
That's a good idea. I'll keep that in mind.
what steel is that barrel made of,? is it of 4140? I would like to make a button for a muzzle loader barrel, I also watched your video on deep hole drilling... very fasinating. one of my favorite channels please keep them coming.
This barrel was made from DOM tubing, so 1020 or 1026 steel.
Is that considered hammer forged rifling?
The term hammer forged rifling usually refers to rifling produced by forging the outside of a smooth-bored barrel down onto a mandrel that has a mirror image of the rifling on it. This would be considered a form of button rifling.
Very nice!, Could you recommend a book or where I can find information on tempering and hardening? Thanks
Hi, mate
It's just question to a kind of material of barrel. Thanks