The Best Upgrade To Be Able To Cut Stainless Steel On The Chinese Mini Lathe
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 26 ส.ค. 2024
- If you buy a Chinese Mini Lathe and you are having trouble cutting stainless steel effectively, This is one of the best things to make for your lathe. I leave this toolpost block on my Mini Lathe permanently unless I need the compound slide for machining angles.
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Just to be sure about what you are saying......the compound slide ( with the small lathes) produces movement that affects the cutting of tough metals like stainless. Could you do a video using the compound slide and then not using the compound slide for comparison? I notice in the comments that there is at least one doubter of the method. "Quick fix for small lathes". Thanks for the tip, very good info.
The Mini Lathes do vary in tolerance and quality. You may get a very good one new, but mine was particularly bad on most things. I have seen others machining stainless without any problems, using the compound slide. It's just another one of those things it's worth noting if one has problems with certain materials. You definitely wouldn't get any of these problems on high-quality machines, but then they are very expensive.
If I didn't have a Chinese Mini Lathe, I would still buy one now, as I have made hundreds of different components using it. I also used it for a few years without doing too much to the lathe.
I have found on my small lathe known as a 920 lathe it made a big difference with tool post block, although I have made many mods. Thanks for all your video's look forward to more.🇬🇧👍.
That is an impressive cut for that little lathe! 👍
Mine has got slop between the bed and carriage, and slop between the carriage and cross slide. Sometimes I have to put my hand on the toolpost and hold it down with a LOT of downforce to get a nice cut... yeah I know one day I will rebuild it and fix some issues... maybe. 😁
Notice when he tightened down the tool holder, his whole carriage lifted up. I guess because of the pressure from the cutting it doesn't matter much. Still it's some impressive cutting. Not sure my lathe would do it that well.
Hi Steve. Nice finish on the 316.
Indeed, it works. Nice set of upgrades.
Before the toolpost block, would you say the spindle bearing upgrade, collet chuck, carriage extension and or ways surfacing are more important or was more chatter and inaccuracy due to the compound rest? What would be the order you'd recommend tackling among those upgrades I mentioned and any others come to mind you'd suggest. Thank you sir in advance for your time and wishing a Happy Easter!
I used my Mini Lathe for a few years before I did any upgrades. I changed the bearings and did many other things, but I still had problems with it. When I made the toopost block, it was an amazing difference. Many people have said that the compound slide is the main problem as it is so narrow, etc. I have gone over to a toolpost block on my Myford ML7 as well and have noticed a considerable difference. I just use the compound slides if I need to do angles now. Regards Steve
Pretty nice Steve!👍👍
Oh wow, that was unexpected! Just …wow!
Cut’s great
Do you have a video of this tool post upgrade?
Impressive! What feed and depth of cut was this? And could you give more info on the used carbide insert? Thx!
I've got an atlas craftsman ten inch lathe and have been wanting to buy one of those Aloris knockoffs but I'm not sure of what size I need, when looking, there appears to be a couple different sizes that work and I want the Goldilocks sized one lol. Any ideas? Thanks
would be interesting if she also cuts straight on that long part
Excuse me, madam, but I'm a man 😀
@@SteveJordan i meant the lathe ! hahaha
What would you think of using razor sharp HSS instead of the cermet insert with the rounded edge? Wouldn't it help to reduce work hardening?
Might work better for about 30 seconds, before that edge rounds off.. its the hardness of the inserts that wins the fight, and you have to make a deep enough cut to get past that edge- .025 /side or more..
When I worked in the aerospace industry, we used carbide inserts at all different speeds. And used them for intermittent cutting. I only use hss for special ground tools like internal groove tools.
@@SteveJordan I'd bet that your lathes and mills were at least 2 orders of magnitude more rigid and powerful than my itty bitty Sieg mini-lathe. Heavy, powerful cuts are not even a dream. I need to have razor sharp tooling to cut just beneath the work hardened zone, without hardening the underlying metal any more than necesssary. Cobalt steel is my friend.
👍
Might I ask which speed and feeds you used? I made the solid replacement for the tool holder and used carbide inserts and still had horrible results when trying to turn stainless. I even went so far as to machine the base of the tool holder to have a solid 3 point contact to prevent rocking. Any suggestions?
I don't know what the feed is, as I just used the lathe with the same gears that were set from when I bought the lathe. If yours is running at approximately the same feed, you shouldn't have any problem. The spindle speed doesn't really matter too much either. If it chatters, you obviously slow the rpm. It must be something else causing the problem. It could be tool centre height, which is critical to get right? The tool protruding too much? Not using a steady? Or maybe your carriage assembly is not adjusted correctly?
What was the depth of the cut?? I didn't see it in the vid or find it in the comments, thanks !!
I don't remember offhand. I never take really deep cuts as It just wears the tool inserts quicker, without coolant.
mine cuts stainless steel easy , the insert used make all the difference ..
Yes, the inserts make a difference. Also, the Mini Lathes vary in production tolerance and quality. I had to do a lot of work on mine to get it right.
@@SteveJordan Oh , me to many repairs .. mine was a mess when I took it out of the crate .. then it would not even run steady !
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Works a treat! Thanks for sharing and Happy Easter.
Thanks, Happy Easter!! Regards Steve