303 & 304 Stainless Steel Lathe Speeds & Feeds! WW204
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 19 ก.ย. 2024
- Turning Stainless 303 & 304 with Paul Debolt. A continuation of our other Turning Steel video, let's talk inserts, speeds & feeds, and make some chips! First, we'll ease our way in with 303 and then take on the challenge of 304. We'll try different S&F as well as different types of inserts to see how they affect the cuts.
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Links for this video
Turning Steel Feeds & Speeds Part 1 | bit.ly/2MYQQ4v
Turning Steel Cones on CNC Lathe | bit.ly/2lAP25k
S&F Excel File | bit.ly/2KgEer5
Debolt Machine Shop Tour | bit.ly/2trcvu0
Debolt Machine Website | bit.ly/2iFGiKr
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Reach us / CNC Info:
Manufacturing Entrepreneurship Resources:
www.nyccnc.com
Better Speeds & Feeds? provencut.com
Online Fusion 360 Training: bit.ly/LearnFusion
Hands-On CNC Classes: www.nyccnc.com/...
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I discovered machining as an adult and am grateful to have found something I love and am able to share with others. We hope NYC CNC not only makes you a better machinist but helps you understand and learn more about how to succeed as a manufacturing entrepreneur! 5 Reasons to Use a Fixture Plate on Your CNC Machine: bit.ly/3sNA4uH
I really love these videos with Paul Debolt! He's a wealth of knowledge for those of us doing hobby work on hobby machines. Please go back for more, and thank you!
I cut almost all 304 stainless on my CNC lathe for my product. I wish when I was getting into it I had a mentor for practical advise. The biggest advice I could give to someone wanting to cut a lot of 304 is....buy quality inserts. I'm using almost all Sandvik now. It seems really expensive getting into it, but you can find good deals out there, and even at the bulk price of $100/pack, it's actually cheaper in the long run...a single insert would probably do what most people really need for a long time. eBay is a great place to get 1 or 2 inserts as a trial.
I wish the tooling vendor was a silver bullet answer, but I can't get one to help me out...it's likely different if you're a big shop. When I was having problems with my face grooving, the only way was to push through myself and try out a bunch of tools, inserts and grinding my own reliefs. Eventually I figured out how to do it, but it's not an easy operation in 304 in my opinion. Many of the speed/feed recommendations online all apply to simple turning as we saw here in the video, problems are almost always on the challenging operations like mentioned, or threading or some other cut that doesn't go as planned.
Paul's the man! My favourite videos of yours are the ones you've done with him, and that's not a knock on your regular videos, he's just that good!
...I'm a beginner hobbyist but the generosity of knowledge here is much appreciated. Thanks.
Thanks to both of you for doing this. There is probably 4 hours of work noted and edited down to 20 minutes. Very helpful. Thanks again
As an Instrumentmaker using manual machines on all the hard to machine materials whenever possible on the lathe I used coolant, I made all kinds of shields to contain it, on the Bridgeport mill I bought a cold air gun that worked fantastic. This way you can always get an accurate measurement when your workpiece is not hot.
I was thoroughly entertained - great video!
Been waiting for this vid for a long time! Thanks for going back to finish up the series, really enjoy Pual's insight. Would have liked to see to see 17-4 only because I've never been able to break that chip with anything under about 20 thou feed.
Thanks NYC CNBC and paul debolt, very good information about latches and H.P. Thanks a million guys
Awesome episode. These videos with Paul are my absolute favorite. He has so much knowledge about machining
Love hearing the "Chameleon" by Maynard Ferguson! Kudos to whoever picks your music.
Love this kind of stuff! Thanks for the great effort you put into providing this stuff.
Yes its well planned. I love this stuff.
This video has helped me immensely!! Thank you Paul and John!
These videos with Paul are great.
Thanks Paul, you are a super good fella for sharing !!
Thank you both for putting all of this knowledge into one place!
Hey John and Paul, great video - thanks for using your valuable time to put this together for us. Very useful information 👍🏽👌🏽
I’ve owned a 7” and a 10” and neither were good for me. Stepped up to a 13” and would never consider anything smaller. Just the mere accuracy of a larger machine is night and day. Next one will be a 16”. Paul makes some great observations. As far as turning 304 I’ve been avoiding it for some time and have had trouble sourcing the diameters I need in 17-4 or 4140 and find myself back to 304 hence why I am watching this video. Problem is we’re talking 7mm round bar and deflection is a real issue for me. I’m going to give it a try and see how it runs. Also I’ve not had any luck with expensive cbn inserts. They always seem to have limited life and carbide inserts have worked well in stainless for me at least lasting through a few jobs. You know when heat transfers to the chips well when one lands on you and sinks into your forearm :-).
love the glowing cut at the last two cuts
tsumitomo finishing end mill? didnt know they were called that
14:14 "End Mill"? I forgive you john!!
19:28 Again :D
He doesn’t like lathes ahah
hilarious!
Lol I came to say that too
This video was extremely helpful thank you for sharing.
Very technical and educational video specially in a manual engine lathe very smart video thanks
Jon, this is awesome! Great lay out, great content. Though I wish you would have touched on smaller diameter stuff and the true relevance of those high rpm scenarios.
Very knowledgeable guy love the vid
We only ever deal with 304 stainless, we just bump the lathe up to 2000 RPM and hope for the best, the lathe we use is a Harrison m400 80" bed
Would using a VFD give you more torque at low RPMs?
Thanks for putting this together! Super helpful!
dude your videos are so relevant to me over the last couple months it feels like you are stalking me and making videos in response...
Maybe I am? :)
Nice video. In the first demonstration I would never have chosen that insert shape. I would I use an Insert that has a triangle shape or a soft diamond in a 2035 insert material. 316 is the softest stainless I machine on a regular basis most are much less machinable, proprietary blends. I’ve been machining stainless steel over 25 years. But that’s just me, in my shop, with my needs and goals.
Thank you for making this video!
The dnmg insert from sumitomo is made for steel. I normally us the dnmg with the ac6020m coating.
I have a beginner question. What type of metal should I use on my south bend from 1937. It runs awesome. It was my dads great great uncles. Anyway I want to learn as much as I can. Thank you for your video
My job right now machines only 304 ss, im the only machinist (and relatively amateur) so thanks for some tips
balisticsrooster your shop machines stainless but youre the only machinist? and youre getting tips from TH-cam? i mean nothing wrong with that but i just find it hard to belive an amateur is the only machinsit in a machine shop.
Juxtaposed1Nmotion its not a machine shop. i got 2 years of school and 4 years on the job. Ss is just not something i did often at the other real machinie shops.
Its a company that makes pharma machines and equipment. I make parts for prototypes and small runs, everything else is done else where.
I spent over a decade turning stainless steel making operatory table parts.
After trying a lot, I found that the best inserts for stainless, in my opinion and for my parts and machine setup, are the Walter ones, my favourite was the NM4 chipbreaker WAM20 (supersedeed by the MM5 WSM20S), in TN, CN and DNMG form.
Those inserts last a lot and they give a very good finish.
Now I'm trying the NMS WSM20S for roughing, and I'm happy with them.
Why didn't you use coolant?
Hi Sir , would be share some video clip about cnc. Milling? Thanks Sir
Thanks for a very informative video. As a beginning machinist, I find stainless hard to work with, and this was quite helpfull. I do have a question: do you know or have a video explaining all the codes around inserts? There are some charts out there, but what I find lacking is really the ins and outs on to which insert to use for what task, and when, basically.
Any tips on facing Operation
21:20 Wow, you can see the contact point glowing. This could be near infrared that was picked up by the camera but not visible to the naked eye. But nevertheless, is that normal?
Normalish, shouldn’t really be glowing like that, means too much heat is getting dumped into the tool. It’s ok for a short amount of time, but will degrade the insert faster. A feed or doc increase should be made.
Great info...thanks for sharing and thank you Paul
I love the vids. I'm curious who the older gentleman is in the background? Sometimes I see him trying to get out of the picture when your recording and it's funny
I have a problem trying to fit S&F on my small cnc lathe. i'm doing very smal detail in 304 Stainless (6mm of dia) and having very bad surface.
Please help
I've worked on a lathe almost every workday since 1978, you get a second sense with speeds and feeds etc overtime.
Although much easier to machine, 303 is actually stronger and harder than 304. But 304 has better corrosion resistance and is easier to weld.
I also like to use finishing endmills on my manual lathe
Once I learnt about Whittaker lines it solved the machining problems machining 316
What differences can you expect in a cnc with constant flood oil? Like tool life, faster cut, or deeper. I assume only tool life
in cnc machining, you use faster speeds and stainless steels are bad at dissipating heat, so having high pressure coolant is a must if you don't want your inserts to randomly break mid-cut after two parts
coolant also lubricates, it reduces friction between insert and part, thus prolonging insert life and gives nicer looks to finish passes, also it keeps tool holder and machined part cooler, so you don't end up hitting the +/-0,01mm tolerance on red hot part that shrinks by 0,05 once cools down
and lastly it helps to "shoot" chips away, so they don't stuck between tool and part - which could break the insert and make you drop the ciggar and make fastest run in your life for that red button
I'm sure it's not random, but to some of us less seasoned folk, what is the decision making details that make you increase/decrease DOC, FPR, RPM? To me it just seems arbitrary, but I'm sure it is not.
Do you have a vfd that gives you power reading? would be interested.
Can you do a video on hard material like heat treated material?
Turning 304 is not a problem, now drilling and tapping, that’s a different story. Great video though.
Have you tried Emuge taps?
@@phillipwebb9741 No I’ve never heard of them, what are they?
The are taps for stainless. They have different grades. I use them on a cnc mill for tapping 304 and 316 stainless. If you are tapping quite a few holes or if you only have enough parts for the job I would recommend those taps. Emuge has a 1800. # you can call. They are really smart people. Msc is one of their distributors. Just finished a project where was had to tap 1/4_28 , 3/8-24 , 3/8 npt in 316 stainless on a n old Haas mill. Only broke 1 tap, the npt. It was an error on my part. Called Emuge , done what they said, smooth sailing .
Is this carpenter process...?? Condition A .?...sellinium...sulferized...?
303 is 303S (Sulfur), not to be confused with 303Se (Selenium). Video is 303/303S.
Wish Paul had a TH-cam channel
super talented
Paul knows his shit
Thanks for the vid
I didn't see a single end mill in this video
It would be much better if they could do these videos on a production ready CNC machine, instead of some old manual machine
hi guys,
what kind of steel do you recommend for the chair leg? Im trying to do strong and durable(no rust
) chair. 303 enough for this job ? And is it okay if i use for outdoor?
430 could be good choice for less expansive durability
304 would be fine. 303 can not be welded.
Thanks
Who knows the difference between a 432 and a 431 why its a smoother finish
Que tal un saludo cordial desde Toluca en Mexico nos gustaría que tu videos pudieran tener subtitulos en español para entender un poco mejor y así tu también tendrías más suscriptores. Saludos
8:53manufacturers put speeds and feed on box.and becouse every thing is from x to x. pick how you cut. what why lol. why not just say 120 and not 90-160 lol. thx god but we cut gaster and boss say too slow lol
19:26 "...switching back to that Sumitomo finishing end mill ...."
There was no machining of 304 🤷🏼♂️ it was all 303. We need the 304 to compare
. He told endmill.. Instead of dnmg finishing insert.. He fought 😁
I have a 12 x 36 atlas but I never turn anything over 6 inch diameter and seldom that,,suits my purpose as a hobbyist. 1/8 inch at a time is plenty for me,,just don't like the. O042 feed rate the atlas engineers dropped the ball there in quick change,,I just my 48 tooth drive gear to 24 for feed and change it back to tread
still waiting for the finishing endmill to appear
I particularly don't like to talk whit tooling sellers because in 90% of the cases they didn't machined nothing in they lives, they don't know nothing, just sell there products. if i want to buy something special I must do my research myself.
ISN'T 303 MAGNETIC..
Bigwingrider1800 no only 400 series
The "right" way to machine "stainless steel" and any and all other material? Start with stock as close to the finished diameter as possible, don't jack around taking countless "roughing passes" wasting time, money, materials, utilities and your customers' patience and don't use worn-out scrapyard-reject "rebuilt" or "restored" machine tools straight out of some "reseller" warehouse when that "reseller" when not "reselling" machine tools is a "scrap dealer" getting paid or paying very little to haul off other people's junk, worn-out and depreciated-out tools when a "factory" or "school" shit-cans its "surplus" junk and either goes tits up, sells out, changes "business models", gets new tools or otherwise decides its time to "take out the trash" and ship that old shit down the road.
304 is my least favorite material to turn. I cringe everytime it comes into my little shop.
MD Machining
I work with it all the time, its not too bad, just can’t do it without coolant. Way too easy to work harden
we run it with coolant regularly without any problem.
304 is tough to work, but its so incredible. It's easy to get a mirror polish on 304, next to impossible on 303. 304 has a tactile quality that is almost sensual. With a good polish, it's got just the right amount of slip vs. grab. It doesn't wick away your body heat, so it warms up quickly. In my mind, it's an almost magical material. 316 is even more difficult to work on my hobby machines, much easier to get it to work harden.
Yeah 316 is quite the bitch, even less surface speed and feels more gummy imho.
So i'm actually glad if its just 304
But if you get proper inserts with some mumbojumbo miracle coating it gets doable
It's just not my cup of tea. Maybe if I did more of it but most of the stuff i have made with it has not been fun. The finished are awesome but I hate dealing with it and the cleanup after. Worst cut I've had in my shop was a hiding 304 stringy chip that caught me.
Рой Клуб наше будущее!
Лейла Гаппоева
Телеграм: @zlxms
Shut up and run the job good grief. Too much talking.
BS
You know you hate lathes when you start calling lathe inserts for end mills. 19:26 *
16:40 I cringed when he touched it while still spinning