I've tackled the same cracked plastic problem shown in the video with my 5.4L F-150 and had success in eliminating the O-rings on the cross-over and filling in the plastic channels with a suitable high-temp, plastic repairing, coolant resistant epoxy to repair and reinforce the intake before sealing the two surfaces back together with RTV on assembly. I'll note I left a shallow groove in the o-ring channels for the RTV to bead in. I did this about 15,000 miles ago and have yet to have a problem. I'm not suggesting anyone do this, but it's something to consider if you're comfortable enough working around engines and understand what issues may arise later from doing so. When I did that I also took the time to replace leaking valve cover gaskets, install a new thermostat, change the plugs, and have my injectors inspected and cleaned along with new injector O-rings installed while it was all broken down. I did follow a previous video by Makuloco on removing the intake to replace the intake gaskets, which I also did since I had it all apart.
Thanks for the information. Just now took my 5.4 intake manifold off. Gonna need the whole intake, busted right where you were pointing on the Left side.
Yes actually...I remember when I first saw a cast aluminum oil pan years ago and I remember making a big bitchabout it ...decades later and we have a plastic oil pan on a $50k+ mustang,clearly these people have no issues bottoming out where they live obviously ,anyway yes I read in a magazine randomly in a dr.office that composite blocks and internals are under experimentation, it's the damn millennials,they are getting these jobs and positions without any former direction in life or instilled pride for what they do,I'm willing to bet within a couple decades we will start seeing engines melt down in traffic the start stop assist will be part of the cooling system in traffic for some plastic block crock of Lego bullshit
I had the number 1 spark plug go bad about 2 years ago and replaced the whole set. ( I learned about Ford's infamous design flaw during this procedure) About 4 months ago, it was the number 1 coil pack that died. Soon after replacing that, I noticed steam coming out of my hood after arriving at work one morning. Looking for the source of the steam led me to find a leak on the number one injector seal. Great, I've got coolant AND fuel leaking like crazy. I replaced the eroded O-rings on the number one injector and all the other injector O-rings on that side for good measure. That's when I found coolant pouring out of the area between the plastic and aluminum intake parts. That had to be the source of all the other problems. As fast as it is leaking, it must be the like the one in this video. Mine is a 4.6L with 176K miles on it. Plastic has it's uses but not in engines. Ford isn't the only manufacturer doing it, though.
My 99 ford f150 5.4 liter has the aluminum intake manifold, I'm glad that I don't have to deal with that plastic one! They crack and warp too easily. If mine ever gets damaged I hope that I'm able to find another aluminum one just like it.
The Dorman intakes for the 4.6 have smaller runners. They are small enough that those who HAVE used them notice a problem with power while they are driving. There are threads about it on TCCoA.
Yea, the Dorman I take is inferior to OEM as is about everything they make. I've installed several Dorman intakes for customer cost reasons. I almost declined the work if the part was Dorman but I sort of wanted to see the differences. The main differences to me were the gaskets integrated in to the bottom of the intake rather than having separate ones like Ford always does. Also, only the throttle body has brass threaded inserts. Every other fastener for the fuel rails, coils, and different bracket mounts are plastic holes with self tapping screws. It's really cheapy to me for that reason BUT I havn't seen one come back yet.
I have sold many of these to my customers. Like Brian said it's cheaper to buy a Dorman compared to the OEM. It seems that a lot of the shops will always go for the cheaper intakes. Though they are putting a less durable intake for their customers. The gaskets do change so the customers have to be aware of they the factory intake or the aftermarket.
+Jose Romero You're right. Most every consumer wants the cheapest. That's why it makes me so happy to see guys like Brian advocating OEM parts. It's so important! Check out this pic I just pulled uploaded off my phone of one of the recent intakes I did. I think this was an '03 Grand Marquis. This one leaked pretty good. i.imgur.com/BHdOFsI.jpg
Be careful with the 4.6L and the dorman intakes. They are a universal design now and introduce vacuum leaks if you don't RTV the old locator holes in the cylinder head. There are two different designs floating around. Be sure to test fit to see if you need rtv! The documention to do so isn't always included.
Just installed one on my 2006 F-150 4.6L last week. No issues so far and I do believe the Dorman had little studs coming off of the bottom part of the intake to fill in the old locator holes.
@@mtsanchez27 As of July 2024, Ford re-released the 4.6 2v intake manifold. M-9424-P46A is the new part number on the 'updated' 4.6 2V manifold. It has been tested on the dyno and unfortunately is not as good as the original intakes Ford equipped and sold as a service part. The new part has lost hp and torque and has much shorter runners, but it does have a few other changes. Other items of interest are the updated design to the coolant outlet at passenger rear (plastic not metal as some have implied) in addition to the crossover being all aluminum instead of aluminum fastened to plastic. New design eliminates the fatigue the Zytel GF30 P66 material faces with some old manifolds with reference to this video. Overall, better than a lot of the aftermarket plastic intakes (keep in mind, while zytel with glass fiber can be injection molded, many aftermarket are made using only a thermoplastic with properties subpar to the P66 nylon) this is made by same mfg as Dorman in the USA (MPI), just carries the Ford name and warranty.
I changed about 3 of those intakes on my 4.6 Crown Vic engine I swapped into my vintage truck. Gave up on that and bought an aftermarket all metal unit and never had the problem again. I feel it is very much worth the price to end the problem forever. I bought the polished unit, but you can get a raw aluminum one for around $300. It works with Explorer, Mountaineer, Crown Vic, Mercs and Lincoln Panther body cars as well as the Mustang. Cost is under that of the OEM unit. I have used the Dorman, which works, but my issue is the sheet metal screws used for holding down coils and injector rails. The holes only take so many removal of the screws before stripping out.
@@famousneu1 the same inlet cracked on my stock aluminum intake, 97 4.6 in a 7lug f150. I put the plastic one on. This all started because it leaked coolant in the plug hole from gasket failure. There was also gasket failure in some of the runners. Truck has 250-300k miles which is a guess because the odomoter had the failure prone plastic gears in it.
03 CVLX with 197k. I have replaced the intake manifold with Ford OEM only. IMHO there are certain things you must stick with factory parts and this is definitely one of them. The redesign of the coolant crossover was supposed to fix the issue of cracks and eventual leakage, but in regards to your great video.... those coolant crossover gaskets are a bad problem. even with my brand new FRPP intake manifold I could have been in some big trouble if I hadn't double checked those crossover bolts from the underside before install. They turned out to be snug, not right at all and on top of that I recommend adding some COPPER RTV besides the gasket.... to me it's just not thick enough to keep a tight seal under the elements of hot and cold. Same goes for the actual manifold gaskets as well. There just isn't enough sealing gasket material. If I owned my own shop it would be difficult to guarantee my work when I know plenty of 2v owners go through the issue as well.
funny story...back when I was in college and started DIYing cars, I had a 96 crown vic police interceptor. That thing was my pride and joy and I had save up a whole 900 bucks to buy it. I had a cracked intake manifold that was leaking so I was going to change it out and was going to do the thermostat while I was at it... Well to make a long story short I was short one bolt in the end and thought I would get a new bolt put in place and then I started the car and my heart sank... I opened the intake back and to my horror I did exactly what I thought I did... I let a bolt slip right down the intake... that was the first, only and last time I ever made that rookie mistake!!!!!lmao. ALWAYS ALWAYS inspect the intake/ exhaust ports for fallen parts and once you confirm it stuff a rag, a glove, whatever down there so that you dont make an expensive mistake like I did lmao To this day I have night sweats when I have to open up an intake worrying I might do that again to a mercedes or something lol
I just did this about a year ago to my 5.4L. cracked in the same exact place as the one in your video. put a dorman on mine and so far hasnt missed a beat. wasnt to bad to replace but the 3 inch body lift help with clearance on the fire wall.
heres what happened to me. when driving on the highway i would experience a constant misfire when accelerating at low rpm in overdrive. i figured it was a bad coil pack but kept fixing itself. couple months later as im driving to work i notice my engine temp get to 230f as i was parking. I finally figured it out. at that specific engine speed/load my coolant was spraying onto one of my coil packs causing a short.... changed out the intake with the cheap doorman option and its all good to go. didn't really notice a noise difference but i wasn't looking for one. defiantly not worth $200 more for 5db less noise..
2:48 I have the exact same sized chunk of plastic from that same spot. Identical. That is why I am here... to determine a trip to pick n pull or not...
The dorman 4.6 intakes on my 01 GT mustang only last about 4 years each. First one installed 2010, replaced 2014, and last week 2019. Both failed with similar plastic cracking around cooling passage. If you can wait or afford go the ford or ford motorsports unit.
There was an upgraded version of this intake that fixed the leak issue. I'm also aware this issue is from over heating the vehicle and you get that stress fracture. I'm not sure if it cools down to fast from cold if it will cause the problem. Maybe install an ice shield around it would not hurt.
made alot of money on the 4.6 and 5.4's intake manifolds. i put new injector o rings like you and put new plugs and new boots on the coils. put a manifold in a guys f150 1 time it was cracked on the back side and was seeping in the intake and was almost completely clogged up he had ran it so long went through over a gallon of coolant a week for many months lol.
I have a 2001 5.4 on my expedition. I suffered the same crack and leak as shown on this video. I replaced the ford intake with the Dorman. I couldn't be happier!!! The design is so much better for the following reasons. First and foremost the box on the bottom of the intake is much smaller allowing servicing the knock sensor, the water pump pipe and the water temperature probe without breaking you knuckles of having to remove the intake. If its noisier as a result I sure cant tell. My engine sounds great! I also like the courser thread they use on the screws they provide because they take less turns to tighten and seat. Especially the bolts that hold down the ignition coils! Speeds up the tedious process. Why would I buy a more expensive ford OEM that doesn't allow me such access and failed already in the first place???
That's interesting. I'm fixing to do this on a 2001 5.4 Triton on my F250. Found the intake on Amazon $106, but I'm afraid of the louder engine now due to the comment in this video. Don't want to waste $$ on a brand, but I love how quiet my engine is for a 23 year old truck.
I just did my intake gaskets to find out my manifold is actually warped. so thanks for the link and saving me a few bucks on a new intake. had the same chunk come off the front of the intake for that coolant oring.
@@texanbalaban6777 you have to plug it in before the intake is bolted down, or get a 2 year old to reach back and plug it in, if its original to the engine it probably crapped a butterfly valve into the engine. = lots of money and lots of cuss words to fix a dented piston or intake valve, like over $1000 or piston is closer to $4000
While I don't currently have a problem with the intake manifold on my 2003 4.6L Crown Vic, I do have to wonder why Ford didn't just make these manifold/runners out of aluminum to begin with instead of alum/plastic as in this case and the one on my car. At this point in time, I am not aware of any aftermarket mod's by Edelbrock or others to improve this design for the 4.6L, 5.4L and 6.0L Ford Modular engine series.
i have the coolant leak on my Triton and was going for the Amazon $106 intake. Didn't know about the thinner plastic and potentially louder engine sound so I'm going to check however I can prior to purchasing. I also don't want to spend extra $$ on the intake. Thanks a lot.
Wow..I absolutely CANNOT Thank you enough for that segment...I'm working on an F150 having a leak on the thermostat side of the crossover pipe very little information even diagrams... nothing. Thanks again.
seams like you could just chop the plastic part off and bolt the aluminum back down and you'd be just fine, not sure if you need that 1/2in for any clearance issues though.
Hi Fordtech thanks for sharing all these valuable information , I am facing the following issue, I have installed 2 new aftermarket intake manifolds (same brand) and they both have developed a leak that appears to be coming from the coolant port next to cylinder # 4 , I can only see the drip at bottom center of engine between engine and transmission, can you tell me where can I get an original Ford intake manifold with gaskets? or what is the best option with an aftermarket manifold? how can I tell if it is the heater metal pipe at center engine valley? it appears to start leaking only after 1 o 2 miles of use, no leak if engine is off. 99 crown Vic lx 4.6 gasoline thank you
So I have an '04 Econoline 350 Van. Isnt it a 3 valve? The intake in your vid is identical and when I went to replace number 6 it had anti all down in the plug well. Constant, gradual leak; never allowed to effect temp; engine very strong- works like a rented mule
Oh look I'm back on your channel again for an Expedition issue 😂😂😂 I noticed some buildup around the passenger side front fuel injector and thought it was a bad o-ring so changed all the o-rings on that side, and coincidentally that front o-ring was pretty worn, but when changing the thermostat I noticed the same buildup was actually coming from where the crossover mates to the intake. I cannot believe that they made it out of plastic.
I think I seen a content creators video where he swiped a Lincoln navigator intake, since I believe aluminum or a cast iron? was used for a particular year. ..
i just had one replaced on a 2007 grand marq time will tell how long it lasts for quality seemed ok the part i used was alot cheaper then dorman or factory. The guy never told me how bad the old intake was but i do know it was leaking at the bottom of the thermostat housing after replacing the thermostat. Even before it seemed like i was losing coolant some were but i could not see it or really smell it had 160k on mine also replaced the coolant tube pipe underneath you do want to inspect that while your in there also a good idea to replace the water pump and change plugs and inspect injectors and replace o rings i would look for blue or red ones most o-ring kits contain black if you can go with blue also the coolant heater tube needs requires 2 o-rings
I have a 2001 f150 5.4, same exact intake manifold you're working with here. Just curious if you could give the link to the torque sequence and specs and also what intake manifold gasket you used. Thank you. Great videos, keep it up bud.
FordTechMakuloco, I am not a mechanic, nor would I say mechanically inclined. I have a 2001 F150 Supercrew. Retired, so cannot afford a new truck. I love this truck and get compliments on it all the time. Haven't had to do much work on. So happy there. That being said, I just had this problem. Took it in for repair. The mechanic told me it was PCV Valve, PCV Tube, and something around the throttle body (don't recall the part). Anyways, I took it in this morning for repair, went to pick it up and they told me it was misdiagnosed and was not the PCV stuff at all, that it was the Air intake and it was cracked. So I go to start the truck and feel it shaking. It wasn't doing that before. It shakes at idle. So, I tell the guy before he locks up shop, he say bring it back, he'll get it ironed out. So, I drive home, and under acceleration, it shakes worse than at idle. They replaced the air intake manifold, O2 sensors and sparkplug boots. In your video you talk about O rings, and gaskets, etc., I don't see that on my invoice. What could be wrong? I should just take it to Ford and get it done right! So tired of paying for dealer service, but when I do, I don't have problems. The place I went to is a world leader in automotive repair. I don't take my stuff to any backyard mechs. Nothing against them, I just prefer the peace of mind of proper work done, and guarantee with said work.
I had the same problem and was told that somehow the coolant from the crossover, leaked into the spark and coil wells. I’m wondering how that could have happened.
What are the torque specs for the crossover pipe for the intake manifold on a 2006 Lincoln Town Car Signature 4.6 liter. I will be changing the water outlet gasket on the crossover pipe.
Hey Brian, I have an 01 f150 5.4L 2v with 170K on it. I just recently discovered a coolant leak coming from underneath the RH flange of the intake manifold.The valley of the engine block had completely filled up with coolant. I already knew what it was from research like your video and others so I decided to remove it and it did indeed have the classic broken plastic grooved gasket slot, it was pretty bad so I ordered a new Ford intake from Amazon as you suggested, (price is now around 220.00) While I am waiting for the intake to arrive, I am prepping the head surface, and decided to replace spark plugs while I have easier access, especially #3 #4 #7 and the dreaded #8, I am also replacing valve cover gaskets as they have been leaking for some time, Also unlike your video I did not have a fuel line disconnect tool so I was able to remove the intake by just popping out the injectors from the fuel rail and lift out the intake quite easily. My question to you is: should I consider replacing the fuel injectors that are 170,000 miles old. I have had no problems at all with them and I religiously change my fuel filter every 20k or so. Thanks for the great videos, hangin on to my 2V for as long as possible, 20+mpg on highway!!!
@@michaelchapman4261 no, they very seldom fail, unlike everything else. O rings at best. I generally use same old and very rarely have any issues. Be gentle going back in and dont cut a ring.
@@treywidner1902 Looks like 2 years ago you posted but on that issue of whether or not to replace injectors when the engine is apart to deal with an intake manifold issue. Injectors here in Burbank Ca can be cleaned and flow tested for about $22 ea if your not local, I am seeing crazy pricing for new injectors though.. Question you have to ask one self is just how dirty is your fuel tank over how many years and miles and factor in how timely have you been replacing the fuel filter? All that goes into how often injectors might start clogging perhaps. But, replacing injectors can be time consuming in itself and so if problems develop down the road, are you willing to have to re do a lot of work to get to them? Factor in whether you have the money now to deal with injectors as a few hundred for the cleaning and new o rings Also are you paying someone for labor or is this your time turning wrenches your gambling with. Lastly is this a daily work vehicle? How much do you loose if the vehicle goes down for the day or week even ? If you have an employee driving it and it breaks down, you add the lost employee wages, tow fees. Then guess is it worth it?
Guess what, I have for my intake manifold; Aluminum Alloy! I'll take it over plastic any day! After 213,000 miles had to put a new gasket on. K-Seal Coolant Repair, made it last little longer so I could do it later for repair. Its $900.00 job. I had carbon issues to, its running great now after it was clean up & gasket replaced with 215,000 miles 1999 F150 4.6 V8...
Thanks for all your videos, they are a big help! I am replacing the intake on my late 03 5.4 F 250 SD, I noticed an injector that had a crack in the injector seat that is below the bottom o ring! The injector kits I have do not have this factory style seat! would just replacing the o ring suffice or will there be issues with this injector?
I changed my valve cover gaskets, intake gasket, spark plugs on my 2000 f150 5.4. I have 2 shiny bolts I cannot see where they go. 14 mm socket fits them. about 1 inch long. thanks your videos are great.
I’m replacing the gaskets on the intake and the coolant cross over and bought a fel pro gasket kit and it has the fuel injector seals as well. My question is what injector seals am I suppose to use from the kit. They have black and brown seals in the kit but the seal on the injectors are green and blue. So I’m not sure what ones I’m suppose to use .
As a Ford Tech, do you have ANY idea when 4.6 intake manifolds will be available again? They're absolutely gone nationwide and I don't want a Dorman intake on my car!
Worn out thin old over aged antifreeze, worn out diluted motor oil worn out transmission fluid that has lost its ability to cool or lubricate in my opinion is detrimental in these situations. Clean new full fluids good tire pressures. People drive across Kansas or Nebraska for 10 hours and then hit the Rocky mountains and wonder why the car is going slower you're going uphill you have thinner air you have less air and your foot goes down into it and your vehicle says nope I ain't doing it. Maintenance is the key. Ford already has cooling systems on their vehicles that are too small and this is why many of these engines have head gasket issues again and again. But people ignore transfer cases changing antifreeze. I say get that antifreeze out of there every 2 years. How bad is it you drain the cock plug, tighten it up and put in 2 gallons of brand new 50/50. $22 plus tax at walmart. Good insurance
This is a job I gotta take on, but I'm a bit intimidated by it. When I get it off, I am going to replace my valve cover gaskets, spark plugs, coils, and injectors (all ford parts). Previous owner put in MSD "flamethrower" coils.....there's a bit of a miss, no surprise. Any harm in putting sleeves in all my spark plug wells, or just any if they are blown?
My 2009 F150 4.6 is leaking at the plastic-aluminum junction under the tstat. BIG leaking. It pours down the trans bell housing and has been running down the DRIVESHAFT if you can believe that. I hope that is the only problem...the intake looks clean, easy to replace... Brian can you tell me if anything else could be causing this leaking? Thanks!
I have a 1996 Mercury Cougar with the 4.6 ever since I put the doorman unit on I've had a lean code is there anyway to still buy the Ford unit for a non pi or should I just pi swap it
So I went to do spark plugs today on my 00 F350 5.4 and the number 6 cylinder coil bolt is stripped. The metal insert in the stupid plastic intake is just spinning. Is this repairable or should I just get a OEM intake and replace the whole thing considering these things crack pretty easily? The truck has 100k miles on it.
When you have the intake manifold out, what do you recommend replacing? Knock or air temp. sensors? Heater hoses? Also, is there anything else you would replace while the intake manifold is out? I’m getting ready to take mine out and just want to have all the parts needed.
I had a bad leak on a 4.6 mustang intake under the metal crossover as you showed. Those o rings are not replaceable on the 4.6. I could not find them anywhere. I even went down to my local Ford dealership and they told me their is no o rings between there which there clearly is. I didnt have the money for a new intake so I left the o rings in place and put rtv gasket maker on top so let's see how long it lasts.
@@FordTechMakuloco do You have any info on how to reinstall an IMRC on 3V intake? Says do not rotate by hand but the plate that holds rods is in way of one of mounting bolt holes. Also how to apply the plastic butterfly valve rod controllers in correct position?
2001 Ford Taurus engine codes Hi Brian. Your videos are amazing. Mom still has her 2001 Taurus that she got new as her retirement garage queen. It's an SE with the Vulcan engine and the AX4N transmission. The miles is 130,717. The only repair since new is 1 coolant over flow bottle. 1 PCV vacuum hose leak elbow. Several failed EGR repairs--- see below About two summers ago the thermostat stuck and she got the car hot. I replaced the thermostat and the car has never overheated again. The oil is fine, no smoke, the car runs with normal power and idle quality. Since two summers ago the car is "drinking" about 1.5 gallons a year(10,000 miles) of anti-freeze. The water pump is tight and no wetness in the weep hole. Zero coolant smell and zero signs of a leak. She went to start the car the other day after shopping in a store 6 miles from home. The car had sat for 15 min. She had trouble getting the car to stay running and it kept dying as she tried to put it in gear to take off, but then it suddenly healed itself and is running fine. Codes reveal P0401--- EGR flow insufficient. "This EGR code has shown up since 2004 and Ford could never did it, but the mpg is great and the car runs like new. New codes as of the starting crisis P1131. Lack of H02S11 switch sens indicates lean P1151. Lack of H02S21 switch indicates lean P0171 syst too lean Bank 1 P0174. Stay too lean Bank 2 The air filter is fine, fuel filter has 3,699 miles on it, trans serviced every 30,000 miles. Tail pipe has zero smoke and clean and dry. Exhaust fumes smell normal and clean. PCV valve fine Oil is fine No evidence of vacuum leaks any where What do you suggest? No milky engine oil, under side of oil filler cap clean, etc. Thanks She really loves this car and had planned to drive it to 200,000 miles. Thanks again.
+fastrace011 Once these engines overheat they blow head gaskets real easy I think this is your concern. Also look for vacuum leaks from hoses such as the pcv hose on the passenger side they fail often on these.
I have a 2001 F-150 w/5.4 2v engine. I suspect that the manifold is leaking coolant. I'm experiencing misfires intermittently. I have some coolant loss. Is there anything that I can check BEFORE removing the intake manifold. I looked at the crossover pipe and it's really dirty where it mates on both sides of the intake manifold. I'll clean it up and see if I detect any leaks. I'd really like a quick response as I'm taking the alternator out to replace the voltage regulator and serpentine belt. Less work if it's already partially apart. Thank you for your time.
Where can you buy just the gaskets to go under the aluminum crossover where it bolts to the plastic? Or do you have a part number for those? Thanks. I’m a Ford man and I love your videos I have learned a lot from you. Keep up the good work and keep the videos coming.
i have coolant pooling in my plug wells on my 97 cougar 4.6 can i just put the pi intake or do i have to chase down a non pi and could i use one of the all aluminum intakes from earlyer 4.6 or would that hurt my power
hi Mr techloco a question why there is motor oil in some spark plugs wells, on a 4.6 engines? I see that to happen in few cars, how the oil gets into the sparks? thank you Mr, I expect your answer, love your videos, sheers from ontario ca
I have a bad coolant leak coming from the valley of my E150s 4.6... Everything I'm reading points to these plastic intake manifolds, BUT... mine isn't plastic, it's aluminum. Even when I look up the replacement manifold, the plastic ones are spec'd. Don't know what to think now...
Well the aluminum intake has different types of ports. The plastic one had more a square type and were bigger. Would know how to keep the aluminium from sucking air.
I'm going through the same thing. Just outta the blue my temperature guage starting moving up while driving, after doing an inspection, hoping it was a pump or thermostat, i find out after sending to the shop that its the intake. Always kept up with the maintenance, never had a coolant issue, but the now has 204k. The shop wants $1000 to fix. Should i go through with the repair or try to find another engine and go from there
I found the passenger side coolant chunk wedged into my thermostat - seems to be a design flaw. The "Insulator box" below the intake -sheesh...a pile of debris. I called Ford. there are only 8 new ones left in the Country and they aint free or cheap. I am wondering if I MUST replace it too in your opinion? To me it seems like it's just a junk collector.
Can that cast aluminum coolant crossover be removed WITHOUT removing the entire intake manifold/crossover as one unit? We have broken alternator mounting bolts that are totally jacked and it's looking like I'm going to have to remove and replace the entire intake manifold just to get a new coolant crossover in there.
Hey Brian, I have 2003 Ford Expedition 4.6l. I am losing radiator fluid and have a #7 cylinder fault when I hooked the code reader up. I also get the white smoke out of the exhaust but not a lot. At first I thought it was a head gasket failure but I did the chemical check on the radiator fill tank and it showed no combustion gases present and my oil is clean. How do i tell if it is a intake manifold failure for sure because I don't wanna drop a bunch of money and labor into a SUV that has a blown head gasket and isn't worth the money.
I know this video is old so I hope you see this comment. I recently got a P2004 code on my 06' f150. I am going to have to replace the IMRC which involves taking off the upper intake manifold. Do you have a video on how to remove it?
Hello. What is that gauge on the aluminum cross over with a small looking pipe on it used for ? I replace the intake manifold and now there is a noise like pressure coming out somewhere in the engine but no leaks. Maybe i did not tighten it enough ?
Removing the intake to replace knock sensor realized that the “sound deadener” is cracked on the front. Does that cause any other issues other than possible louder sounds? I have the 02 Expedition 4.6.
@@FordTechMakulocothanks for the prompt response, brother. Reading more about it I found this is part of the lower plenum, and the part that seems cracked is where the intake runner valve mounts to. I have not finished taking out the whole thing (will remove it this morning) but I have also read others saying that what cracks is the outer insulation layer, not the plenum. Any thoughts on that? I have not found a single listing for the lower plenum WITH the spot for the intake runner valve control.
97 f150 4.6 liter has a aluminum intake. On the bottom of it is what looks like a plastic tank, on the back of it is some kind of sensor that goes into the tank and has a flap on it that swivels, spring loaded... what the heck is that sensor? It has a large O ring around the outside of it and I was wanting to replace the O ring while I got this thing apart... doing a engine overhaul. Leave it to Ford to come up with some weird shit... Lol.
I got a question back in August 2016 I replaced my 5.4 in order to get it out intake had to come off well not long after that intake started leaking water in the back around cylinder 4 never miss fired though well I decided to replace it yesterday got it back together and now it's missing bad intermittently though any suggestions. I also unplugged ever coil pack and motor changes tune Everytime I also sprayed break cleaner around intake no change
Has the design changed for the 5.4 l Triton engine? It looks like the crossover could be removed without removing the intake? I am asking since my 2010 has developed the leak at the driver side crossover.
Thanks for the intake heads up. I'm not even going to look at my old one and just order a new one. While I have this 5.4 2v apart I'm looking at this engine valley and thinking of adding a drain hole out the back. Have you ever seen this done? I'm concerned about fluids collecting in there maybe even gas and causing a fire.
I watch these videos religiously. Top notch advice and training
Yes love the tutorials. Here in mid 2023 this is one of the rare areas of YT not affected by Woke ness , just real science on auto repair
I've tackled the same cracked plastic problem shown in the video with my 5.4L F-150 and had success in eliminating the O-rings on the cross-over and filling in the plastic channels with a suitable high-temp, plastic repairing, coolant resistant epoxy to repair and reinforce the intake before sealing the two surfaces back together with RTV on assembly. I'll note I left a shallow groove in the o-ring channels for the RTV to bead in. I did this about 15,000 miles ago and have yet to have a problem. I'm not suggesting anyone do this, but it's something to consider if you're comfortable enough working around engines and understand what issues may arise later from doing so.
When I did that I also took the time to replace leaking valve cover gaskets, install a new thermostat, change the plugs, and have my injectors inspected and cleaned along with new injector O-rings installed while it was all broken down. I did follow a previous video by Makuloco on removing the intake to replace the intake gaskets, which I also did since I had it all apart.
How did the plug replacement go? Lulz
Thanks for the information. Just now took my 5.4 intake manifold off. Gonna need the whole intake, busted right where you were pointing on the Left side.
Guarantee there is an engineer right now trying to figure out how to make pistons out of recycled milk jugs
Yes actually...I remember when I first saw a cast aluminum oil pan years ago and I remember making a big bitchabout it ...decades later and we have a plastic oil pan on a $50k+ mustang,clearly these people have no issues bottoming out where they live obviously ,anyway yes I read in a magazine randomly in a dr.office that composite blocks and internals are under experimentation, it's the damn millennials,they are getting these jobs and positions without any former direction in life or instilled pride for what they do,I'm willing to bet within a couple decades we will start seeing engines melt down in traffic the start stop assist will be part of the cooling system in traffic for some plastic block crock of Lego bullshit
I bet you're right.
Dangerous Green Party Garbage Thieves
I had the number 1 spark plug go bad about 2 years ago and replaced the whole set. ( I learned about Ford's infamous design flaw during this procedure) About 4 months ago, it was the number 1 coil pack that died. Soon after replacing that, I noticed steam coming out of my hood after arriving at work one morning. Looking for the source of the steam led me to find a leak on the number one injector seal. Great, I've got coolant AND fuel leaking like crazy. I replaced the eroded O-rings on the number one injector and all the other injector O-rings on that side for good measure. That's when I found coolant pouring out of the area between the plastic and aluminum intake parts. That had to be the source of all the other problems. As fast as it is leaking, it must be the like the one in this video. Mine is a 4.6L with 176K miles on it. Plastic has it's uses but not in engines. Ford isn't the only manufacturer doing it, though.
My 99 ford f150 5.4 liter has the aluminum intake manifold, I'm glad that I don't have to deal with that plastic one! They crack and warp too easily. If mine ever gets damaged I hope that I'm able to find another aluminum one just like it.
The Dorman intakes for the 4.6 have smaller runners. They are small enough that those who HAVE used them notice a problem with power while they are driving. There are threads about it on TCCoA.
Lo p
Used a couple of Dormans. Worked fine. Please don't tell South Main. He will have a fit. Really appreciate your vids!! Watch them all!
+Bill Rimmer Thanks!
I've had a lean condition with mine and I know it's the intank
Yea, the Dorman I take is inferior to OEM as is about everything they make. I've installed several Dorman intakes for customer cost reasons. I almost declined the work if the part was Dorman but I sort of wanted to see the differences. The main differences to me were the gaskets integrated in to the bottom of the intake rather than having separate ones like Ford always does. Also, only the throttle body has brass threaded inserts. Every other fastener for the fuel rails, coils, and different bracket mounts are plastic holes with self tapping screws. It's really cheapy to me for that reason BUT I havn't seen one come back yet.
+Banshee365 Good info I knew about the integrated gaskets but not the self tappers.
I have sold many of these to my customers. Like Brian said it's cheaper to buy a Dorman compared to the OEM. It seems that a lot of the shops will always go for the cheaper intakes. Though they are putting a less durable intake for their customers. The gaskets do change so the customers have to be aware of they the factory intake or the aftermarket.
+Jose Romero You're right. Most every consumer wants the cheapest. That's why it makes me so happy to see guys like Brian advocating OEM parts. It's so important! Check out this pic I just pulled uploaded off my phone of one of the recent intakes I did. I think this was an '03 Grand Marquis. This one leaked pretty good. i.imgur.com/BHdOFsI.jpg
My 2001 crown vic 4.6l with 168.000 miles on it is on its 3rd intake and I'm half way done with my timing chain tensioners.
Be careful with the 4.6L and the dorman intakes. They are a universal design now and introduce vacuum leaks if you don't RTV the old locator holes in the cylinder head. There are two different designs floating around. Be sure to test fit to see if you need rtv! The documention to do so isn't always included.
+alb12345672 Another reason to pick the Ford units.
@Noggin Fodder Ebay has a few under 300 bucks.
Just installed one on my 2006 F-150 4.6L last week. No issues so far and I do believe the Dorman had little studs coming off of the bottom part of the intake to fill in the old locator holes.
@@FordTechMakulocothey don't make them anymore tho
@@mtsanchez27 As of July 2024, Ford re-released the 4.6 2v intake manifold. M-9424-P46A is the new part number on the 'updated' 4.6 2V manifold. It has been tested on the dyno and unfortunately is not as good as the original intakes Ford equipped and sold as a service part. The new part has lost hp and torque and has much shorter runners, but it does have a few other changes.
Other items of interest are the updated design to the coolant outlet at passenger rear (plastic not metal as some have implied) in addition to the crossover being all aluminum instead of aluminum fastened to plastic. New design eliminates the fatigue the Zytel GF30 P66 material faces with some old manifolds with reference to this video.
Overall, better than a lot of the aftermarket plastic intakes (keep in mind, while zytel with glass fiber can be injection molded, many aftermarket are made using only a thermoplastic with properties subpar to the P66 nylon) this is made by same mfg as Dorman in the USA (MPI), just carries the Ford name and warranty.
I changed about 3 of those intakes on my 4.6 Crown Vic engine I swapped into my vintage truck. Gave up on that and bought an aftermarket all metal unit and never had the problem again. I feel it is very much worth the price to end the problem forever. I bought the polished unit, but you can get a raw aluminum one for around $300. It works with Explorer, Mountaineer, Crown Vic, Mercs and Lincoln Panther body cars as well as the Mustang. Cost is under that of the OEM unit.
I have used the Dorman, which works, but my issue is the sheet metal screws used for holding down coils and injector rails. The holes only take so many removal of the screws before stripping out.
+ykmalachi Agreed.
***** I used the "procomp" one off ebay.
ykmalachi can u help me finding the aluminium intake manifold for grand marquis 2007?
@@hasanalzaabi did you ever find one? I've got a 2006 Grand Marquis, just got misfire, found coolant leak. I'd just assume do the aluminum intake.
@@famousneu1 the same inlet cracked on my stock aluminum intake, 97 4.6 in a 7lug f150. I put the plastic one on. This all started because it leaked coolant in the plug hole from gasket failure. There was also gasket failure in some of the runners. Truck has 250-300k miles which is a guess because the odomoter had the failure prone plastic gears in it.
03 CVLX with 197k. I have replaced the intake manifold with Ford OEM only. IMHO there are certain things you must stick with factory parts and this is definitely one of them.
The redesign of the coolant crossover was supposed to fix the issue of cracks and eventual leakage, but in regards to your great video.... those coolant crossover gaskets are a bad problem. even with my brand new FRPP intake manifold I could have been in some big trouble if I hadn't double checked those crossover bolts from the underside before install. They turned out to be snug, not right at all and on top of that I recommend adding some COPPER RTV besides the gasket.... to me it's just not thick enough to keep a tight seal under the elements of hot and cold. Same goes for the actual manifold gaskets as well. There just isn't enough sealing gasket material. If I owned my own shop it would be difficult to guarantee my work when I know plenty of 2v owners go through the issue as well.
funny story...back when I was in college and started DIYing cars, I had a 96 crown vic police interceptor. That thing was my pride and joy and I had save up a whole 900 bucks to buy it. I had a cracked intake manifold that was leaking so I was going to change it out and was going to do the thermostat while I was at it... Well to make a long story short I was short one bolt in the end and thought I would get a new bolt put in place and then I started the car and my heart sank... I opened the intake back and to my horror I did exactly what I thought I did... I let a bolt slip right down the intake... that was the first, only and last time I ever made that rookie mistake!!!!!lmao. ALWAYS ALWAYS inspect the intake/ exhaust ports for fallen parts and once you confirm it stuff a rag, a glove, whatever down there so that you dont make an expensive mistake like I did lmao To this day I have night sweats when I have to open up an intake worrying I might do that again to a mercedes or something lol
+nicholas elias The bolt ruined the engine?
+LittleGojira bent the intake valve and marred the valve seat. i junked it only because the car wasnt worth more than an engine
I just did this about a year ago to my 5.4L. cracked in the same exact place as the one in your video. put a dorman on mine and so far hasnt missed a beat. wasnt to bad to replace but the 3 inch body lift help with clearance on the fire wall.
And a topside creeper, Superman stool
heres what happened to me. when driving on the highway i would experience a constant misfire when accelerating at low rpm in overdrive. i figured it was a bad coil pack but kept fixing itself. couple months later as im driving to work i notice my engine temp get to 230f as i was parking. I finally figured it out. at that specific engine speed/load my coolant was spraying onto one of my coil packs causing a short.... changed out the intake with the cheap doorman option and its all good to go. didn't really notice a noise difference but i wasn't looking for one. defiantly not worth $200 more for 5db less noise..
2:48 I have the exact same sized chunk of plastic from that same spot. Identical. That is why I am here... to determine a trip to pick n pull or not...
The dorman 4.6 intakes on my 01 GT mustang only last about 4 years each. First one installed 2010, replaced 2014, and last week 2019. Both failed with similar plastic cracking around cooling passage. If you can wait or afford go the ford or ford motorsports unit.
There was an upgraded version of this intake that fixed the leak issue. I'm also aware this issue is from over heating the vehicle and you get that stress fracture. I'm not sure if it cools down to fast from cold if it will cause the problem. Maybe install an ice shield around it would not hurt.
Where can I find this upgraded intake that you speak of?
made alot of money on the 4.6 and 5.4's intake manifolds. i put new injector o rings like you and put new plugs and new boots on the coils. put a manifold in a guys f150 1 time it was cracked on the back side and was seeping in the intake and was almost completely clogged up he had ran it so long went through over a gallon of coolant a week for many months lol.
+hayden ingram Wow!
I have a 2001 5.4 on my expedition. I suffered the same crack and leak as shown on this video. I replaced the ford intake with the Dorman. I couldn't be happier!!!
The design is so much better for the following reasons. First and foremost the box on the bottom of the intake is much smaller allowing servicing the knock sensor, the water pump pipe and the water temperature probe without breaking you knuckles of having to remove the intake. If its noisier as a result I sure cant tell. My engine sounds great!
I also like the courser thread they use on the screws they provide because they take less turns to tighten and seat. Especially the bolts that hold down the ignition coils! Speeds up the tedious process.
Why would I buy a more expensive ford OEM that doesn't allow me such access and failed already in the first place???
That's interesting. I'm fixing to do this on a 2001 5.4 Triton on my F250. Found the intake on Amazon $106, but I'm afraid of the louder engine now due to the comment in this video. Don't want to waste $$ on a brand, but I love how quiet my engine is for a 23 year old truck.
Perfect
Doing a 4.6 now . Looking for fuel rail remove , clean , replace.
I just did my intake gaskets to find out my manifold is actually warped. so thanks for the link and saving me a few bucks on a new intake. had the same chunk come off the front of the intake for that coolant oring.
+Joseph Cusano Nice glad to help!
@@FordTechMakuloco help! In distress attempting to reinstall IMRC to 3V intake.
Can you please make a video on a 5.4 IMRC when it is stuck open or closed. Please show the actual IMRC moving.
YES! Did You find any information on this IMRC? I'm having a couple problems on reinstalling
@@texanbalaban6777 you have to plug it in before the intake is bolted down, or get a 2 year old to reach back and plug it in, if its original to the engine it probably crapped a butterfly valve into the engine. = lots of money and lots of cuss words to fix a dented piston or intake valve, like over $1000 or piston is closer to $4000
@@treywidner1902 i finally figured it out lolz
While I don't currently have a problem with the intake manifold on my 2003 4.6L Crown Vic, I do have to wonder why Ford didn't just make these manifold/runners out of aluminum to begin with instead of alum/plastic as in this case and the one on my car. At this point in time, I am not aware of any aftermarket mod's by Edelbrock or others to improve this design for the 4.6L, 5.4L and 6.0L Ford Modular engine series.
Planned obsolescence
Some of them are aluminum.
i have the coolant leak on my Triton and was going for the Amazon $106 intake. Didn't know about the thinner plastic and potentially louder engine sound so I'm going to check however I can prior to purchasing. I also don't want to spend extra $$ on the intake. Thanks a lot.
Wow..I absolutely CANNOT Thank you enough for that segment...I'm working on an F150 having a leak on the thermostat side of the crossover pipe very little information even diagrams... nothing.
Thanks again.
Thanks for that tip, Brian. Not looking forward to doing mine in the very near future!
Doing mine now. I hate it. Rather be doing something else.
I'm learning so much from you. Thank you.
+andujo211 Good to hear!
@@FordTechMakuloco I'm severely struggling on the install of an IMRC for 5.4L 3V!
seams like you could just chop the plastic part off and bolt the aluminum back down and you'd be just fine, not sure if you need that 1/2in for any clearance issues though.
Its possible
Hi Fordtech thanks for sharing all these valuable information , I am facing the following issue, I have installed 2 new aftermarket intake manifolds (same brand) and they both have developed a leak that appears to be coming from the coolant port next to cylinder # 4 , I can only see the drip at bottom center of engine between engine and transmission, can you tell me where can I get an original Ford intake manifold with gaskets? or what is the best option with an aftermarket manifold? how can I tell if it is the heater metal pipe at center engine valley? it appears to start leaking only after 1 o 2 miles of use, no leak if engine is off.
99 crown Vic lx 4.6 gasoline
thank you
this video saved me hours upon hours. I had followed your intake gasket video, but the problem came back, turns out both of these areas were cracked.
Pile of crap, who could imagine...
My 05 explorer is leaking coolant because of the cracked intake manifold. I'm going to replace it next week. Thanks for the links.
thanks again for your expertise, once again you've helped me diagnose a bad intake
Guess what? its a ford 5.4, So its going to happen.
So I have an '04 Econoline 350 Van. Isnt it a 3 valve? The intake in your vid is identical and when I went to replace number 6 it had anti all down in the plug well. Constant, gradual leak; never allowed to effect temp; engine very strong- works like a rented mule
Oh look I'm back on your channel again for an Expedition issue 😂😂😂
I noticed some buildup around the passenger side front fuel injector and thought it was a bad o-ring so changed all the o-rings on that side, and coincidentally that front o-ring was pretty worn, but when changing the thermostat I noticed the same buildup was actually coming from where the crossover mates to the intake. I cannot believe that they made it out of plastic.
I think I seen a content creators video where he swiped a Lincoln navigator intake, since I believe aluminum or a cast iron? was used for a particular year. ..
What injector replacement that you would recommend
Thank you for getting this out there.
Do you have to take off the intake on the 5.4 3valve for the crossover tube as well? Looks like you have to.
i just had one replaced on a 2007 grand marq time will tell how long it lasts for quality seemed ok the part i used was alot cheaper then dorman or factory.
The guy never told me how bad the old intake was but i do know it was leaking at the bottom of the thermostat housing after replacing the thermostat. Even before it seemed like i was losing coolant some were but i could not see it or really smell it had 160k on mine also replaced the coolant tube pipe underneath you do want to inspect that while your in there also a good idea to replace the water pump and change plugs and inspect injectors and replace o rings i would look for blue or red ones most o-ring kits contain black if you can go with blue also the coolant heater tube needs requires 2 o-rings
I have a 2001 f150 5.4, same exact intake manifold you're working with here. Just curious if you could give the link to the torque sequence and specs and also what intake manifold gasket you used. Thank you. Great videos, keep it up bud.
FordTechMakuloco, I am not a mechanic, nor would I say mechanically inclined. I have a 2001 F150 Supercrew. Retired, so cannot afford a new truck. I love this truck and get compliments on it all the time. Haven't had to do much work on. So happy there. That being said, I just had this problem. Took it in for repair. The mechanic told me it was PCV Valve, PCV Tube, and something around the throttle body (don't recall the part). Anyways, I took it in this morning for repair, went to pick it up and they told me it was misdiagnosed and was not the PCV stuff at all, that it was the Air intake and it was cracked. So I go to start the truck and feel it shaking. It wasn't doing that before. It shakes at idle. So, I tell the guy before he locks up shop, he say bring it back, he'll get it ironed out. So, I drive home, and under acceleration, it shakes worse than at idle. They replaced the air intake manifold, O2 sensors and sparkplug boots. In your video you talk about O rings, and gaskets, etc., I don't see that on my invoice. What could be wrong? I should just take it to Ford and get it done right! So tired of paying for dealer service, but when I do, I don't have problems. The place I went to is a world leader in automotive repair. I don't take my stuff to any backyard mechs. Nothing against them, I just prefer the peace of mind of proper work done, and guarantee with said work.
I had the same problem and was told that somehow the coolant from the crossover, leaked into the spark and coil wells. I’m wondering how that could have happened.
What are the torque specs for the crossover pipe for the intake manifold on a 2006 Lincoln Town Car Signature 4.6 liter. I will be changing the water outlet gasket on the crossover pipe.
Hey Brian, I have an 01 f150 5.4L 2v with 170K on it. I just recently discovered a coolant leak coming from underneath the RH flange of the intake manifold.The valley of the engine block had completely filled up with coolant. I already knew what it was from research like your video and others so I decided to remove it and it did indeed have the classic broken plastic grooved gasket slot, it was pretty bad so I ordered a new Ford intake from Amazon as you suggested, (price is now around 220.00) While I am waiting for the intake to arrive, I am prepping the head surface, and decided to replace spark plugs while I have easier access, especially #3 #4 #7 and the dreaded #8, I am also replacing valve cover gaskets as they have been leaking for some time, Also unlike your video I did not have a fuel line disconnect tool so I was able to remove the intake by just popping out the injectors from the fuel rail and lift out the intake quite easily. My question to you is: should I consider replacing the fuel injectors that are 170,000 miles old. I have had no problems at all with them and I religiously change my fuel filter every 20k or so. Thanks for the great videos, hangin on to my 2V for as long as possible, 20+mpg on highway!!!
Did you change your injectors? Mine has about the same mileage.
@@michaelchapman4261 no, they very seldom fail, unlike everything else. O rings at best. I generally use same old and very rarely have any issues. Be gentle going back in and dont cut a ring.
@@treywidner1902 Looks like 2 years ago you posted but on that issue of whether or not to replace injectors when the engine is apart to deal with an intake manifold issue.
Injectors here in Burbank Ca can be cleaned and flow tested for about $22 ea if your not local, I am seeing crazy pricing for new injectors though..
Question you have to ask one self is just how dirty is your fuel tank over how many years and miles and factor in how timely have you been replacing the fuel filter?
All that goes into how often injectors might start clogging perhaps.
But, replacing injectors can be time consuming in itself and so if problems develop down the road, are you willing to have to re do a lot of work to get to them?
Factor in whether you have the money now to deal with injectors as a few hundred for the cleaning and new o rings
Also are you paying someone for labor or is this your time turning wrenches your gambling with.
Lastly is this a daily work vehicle? How much do you loose if the vehicle goes down for the day or week even ?
If you have an employee driving it and it breaks down, you add the lost employee wages, tow fees.
Then guess is it worth it?
Next time u need the fuel disconnecter cut and use a zip tip and slide it in there, it pops off works every time
Guess what, I have for my intake manifold; Aluminum Alloy! I'll take it over plastic any day! After 213,000 miles had to put a new gasket on. K-Seal Coolant Repair, made it last little longer so I could do it later for repair. Its $900.00 job. I had carbon issues to, its running great now after it was clean up & gasket replaced with 215,000 miles 1999 F150 4.6 V8...
Where can I buy the gaskets (Cross Member Gaskets) for the Ford Intake Manifold. Thank you.
Thanks for all your videos, they are a big help! I am replacing the intake on my late 03 5.4 F 250 SD, I noticed an injector that had a crack in the injector seat that is below the bottom o ring! The injector kits I have do not have this factory style seat! would just replacing the o ring suffice or will there be issues with this injector?
Dude, ford has issues. Deal with it or the on a bowtie.
Yes I tried to buy the OEM and the Ford motor company told me that they discontinued it some time ago so I was stuck buying it off of Amazon
I changed my valve cover gaskets, intake gasket, spark plugs on my 2000 f150 5.4. I have 2 shiny bolts I cannot see where they go. 14 mm socket fits them. about 1 inch long. thanks your videos are great.
Do you have a video of the removal and install process for this item thanks
How do you take off the last bolt on the left side, can't find a way to reach it?
I’m replacing the gaskets on the intake and the coolant cross over and bought a fel pro gasket kit and it has the fuel injector seals as well. My question is what injector seals am I suppose to use from the kit. They have black and brown seals in the kit but the seal on the injectors are green and blue. So I’m not sure what ones I’m suppose to use .
As a Ford Tech, do you have ANY idea when 4.6 intake manifolds will be available again? They're absolutely gone nationwide and I don't want a Dorman intake on my car!
Worn out thin old over aged antifreeze, worn out diluted motor oil worn out transmission fluid that has lost its ability to cool or lubricate in my opinion is detrimental in these situations. Clean new full fluids good tire pressures. People drive across Kansas or Nebraska for 10 hours and then hit the Rocky mountains and wonder why the car is going slower you're going uphill you have thinner air you have less air and your foot goes down into it and your vehicle says nope I ain't doing it. Maintenance is the key. Ford already has cooling systems on their vehicles that are too small and this is why many of these engines have head gasket issues again and again. But people ignore transfer cases changing antifreeze. I say get that antifreeze out of there every 2 years. How bad is it you drain the cock plug, tighten it up and put in 2 gallons of brand new 50/50. $22 plus tax at walmart. Good insurance
This is a job I gotta take on, but I'm a bit intimidated by it. When I get it off, I am going to replace my valve cover gaskets, spark plugs, coils, and injectors (all ford parts). Previous owner put in MSD "flamethrower" coils.....there's a bit of a miss, no surprise. Any harm in putting sleeves in all my spark plug wells, or just any if they are blown?
My 2009 F150 4.6 is leaking at the plastic-aluminum junction under the tstat. BIG leaking. It pours down the trans bell housing and has been running down the DRIVESHAFT if you can believe that. I hope that is the only problem...the intake looks clean, easy to replace... Brian can you tell me if anything else could be causing this leaking? Thanks!
I have a 1996 Mercury Cougar with the 4.6 ever since I put the doorman unit on I've had a lean code is there anyway to still buy the Ford unit for a non pi or should I just pi swap it
So I went to do spark plugs today on my 00 F350 5.4 and the number 6 cylinder coil bolt is stripped. The metal insert in the stupid plastic intake is just spinning. Is this repairable or should I just get a OEM intake and replace the whole thing considering these things crack pretty easily? The truck has 100k miles on it.
If the brass insert is missing, use a wood screw. I did this and it has held fine for 6 years now.
When you have the intake manifold out, what do you recommend replacing? Knock or air temp. sensors? Heater hoses?
Also, is there anything else you would replace while the intake manifold is out?
I’m getting ready to take mine out and just want to have all the parts needed.
No I don't change anything else in the engine valley while it is out, just check the heater pipe for rust and the wiring for the cht sensor.
FordTechMakuloco Thank you for the quick response. Looking on RockAuto, I see 3 different motorcraft heater hoses. How can I tell which I need?
Looking for the link for the manifold bolt tightening sequence. thanks
Question does anybody know what are the torque specs for a crossover I'm a 99 Crown Victoria 4.6. I got the original Motorcraft intake manifold?
Where can I get the crossover gaskets. Also is that what they are called "crossover gaskets"
I had a bad leak on a 4.6 mustang intake under the metal crossover as you showed. Those o rings are not replaceable on the 4.6. I could not find them anywhere. I even went down to my local Ford dealership and they told me their is no o rings between there which there clearly is. I didnt have the money for a new intake so I left the o rings in place and put rtv gasket maker on top so let's see how long it lasts.
How long did it last?
Is this intake the same for 2005 econoline van E 350 super duty with the 5.4L.
My gaskets look way different then those. Any recommendations?
need to add CHANGE the plugs if this is a intake pull makes it a breeze
+Jon A Sure does.
@@FordTechMakuloco do You have any info on how to reinstall an IMRC on 3V intake? Says do not rotate by hand but the plate that holds rods is in way of one of mounting bolt holes. Also how to apply the plastic butterfly valve rod controllers in correct position?
Mine is a 99-2000 f150 4.6 and it has a aluminum one should I be worried??
2001 Ford Taurus engine codes
Hi Brian.
Your videos are amazing.
Mom still has her 2001 Taurus that she got new as her retirement garage queen.
It's an SE with the Vulcan engine and the AX4N transmission.
The miles is 130,717.
The only repair since new is 1 coolant over flow bottle.
1 PCV vacuum hose leak elbow.
Several failed EGR repairs--- see below
About two summers ago the thermostat stuck and she got the car hot.
I replaced the thermostat and the car has never overheated again.
The oil is fine, no smoke, the car runs with normal power and idle quality.
Since two summers ago the car is "drinking" about 1.5 gallons a year(10,000 miles) of anti-freeze.
The water pump is tight and no wetness in the weep hole.
Zero coolant smell and zero signs of a leak.
She went to start the car the other day after shopping in a store 6 miles from home. The car had sat for 15 min.
She had trouble getting the car to stay running and it kept dying as she tried to put it in gear to take off, but then it suddenly healed itself and is running fine.
Codes reveal
P0401--- EGR flow insufficient. "This EGR code has shown up since 2004 and Ford could never did it, but the mpg is great and the car runs like new.
New codes as of the starting crisis
P1131. Lack of H02S11 switch sens indicates lean
P1151. Lack of H02S21 switch indicates lean
P0171 syst too lean Bank 1
P0174. Stay too lean Bank 2
The air filter is fine, fuel filter has 3,699 miles on it, trans serviced every 30,000 miles.
Tail pipe has zero smoke and clean and dry. Exhaust fumes smell normal and clean.
PCV valve fine
Oil is fine
No evidence of vacuum leaks any where
What do you suggest? No milky engine oil, under side of oil filler cap clean, etc.
Thanks
She really loves this car and had planned to drive it to 200,000 miles.
Thanks again.
+fastrace011 Once these engines overheat they blow head gaskets real easy I think this is your concern. Also look for vacuum leaks from hoses such as the pcv hose on the passenger side they fail often on these.
I have a 2001 F-150 w/5.4 2v engine. I suspect that the manifold is leaking coolant. I'm experiencing misfires intermittently. I have some coolant loss. Is there anything that I can check BEFORE removing the intake manifold. I looked at the crossover pipe and it's really dirty where it mates on both sides of the intake manifold. I'll clean it up and see if I detect any leaks. I'd really like a quick response as I'm taking the alternator out to replace the voltage regulator and serpentine belt. Less work if it's already partially apart. Thank you for your time.
Where to buy a good quality intake manifold for 2012 ford e350 5.4 fuel flex engine thanks
Where can you buy just the gaskets to go under the aluminum crossover where it bolts to the plastic? Or do you have a part number for those? Thanks. I’m a Ford man and I love your videos I have learned a lot from you. Keep up the good work and keep the videos coming.
Did you ever get an answer on where to buy them. I have the same problem
i have coolant pooling in my plug wells on my 97 cougar 4.6 can i just put the pi intake or do i have to chase down a non pi and could i use one of the all aluminum intakes from earlyer 4.6 or would that hurt my power
Hey question I have 2003 ford expedition and change out my intake it's a 5.4 on the by pass that part in middle where that hook up too?
hi Mr techloco a question why there is motor oil in some spark plugs wells, on a 4.6 engines? I see that to happen in few cars, how the oil gets into the sparks? thank you Mr, I expect your answer, love your videos, sheers from ontario ca
In reality it is seeping in over time from the valve cover gasket leaking, the 4.6l is the worst offender for this.
FordTechMakuloco thank you
My 97 4.6 ive had people spill the oil putting it in and it will run into the plug hole.
Can you still find the Aluminium Intake from '97?
Hey man, is an intake manifold leak a problem that i can personally fix? I would rather avoid paying somebody to do it if i can fix it myself.
are these intakes junk are there better ones out there
I have a bad coolant leak coming from the valley of my E150s 4.6... Everything I'm reading points to these plastic intake manifolds, BUT... mine isn't plastic, it's aluminum. Even when I look up the replacement manifold, the plastic ones are spec'd. Don't know what to think now...
Can you swap for an aluminum intake from older trucks
do they make good quality metal intakes for this engine?
The 1999 (the only year) 5.4 Eddie Bauer expedition came with an all aluminum intake.
Can u put the expedtion intake on a 2000 f150 replacing the plastic one
Yes 1997 to 2003 5.4 2v intakes are the same. I wanted to send you a picture of an 1999 aluminium one but don't know how on you tube
Well the aluminum intake has different types of ports. The plastic one had more a square type and were bigger. Would know how to keep the aluminium from sucking air.
I got the aluminium intake off a 99 Eddie brawier edition of expedtion.
I'm going through the same thing. Just outta the blue my temperature guage starting moving up while driving, after doing an inspection, hoping it was a pump or thermostat, i find out after sending to the shop that its the intake. Always kept up with the maintenance, never had a coolant issue, but the now has 204k. The shop wants $1000 to fix. Should i go through with the repair or try to find another engine and go from there
+Mike Stone If it's just the intake go for it and repair it I have a whole video on how to replace it.
I found the passenger side coolant chunk wedged into my thermostat - seems to be a design flaw.
The "Insulator box" below the intake -sheesh...a pile of debris. I called Ford. there are only 8 new ones left in the Country and they aint free or cheap.
I am wondering if I MUST replace it too in your opinion? To me it seems like it's just a junk collector.
It's just for noise
Hi, do you have any videos on cylinder head temperature sensor problems for 2005 f150?
can you pull the cross over off and change the seals with out pulling off the intake
+Susie Canter No the crossover bolts to the intake from underneath as shown.
Can that cast aluminum coolant crossover be removed WITHOUT removing the entire intake manifold/crossover as one unit? We have broken alternator mounting bolts that are totally jacked and it's looking like I'm going to have to remove and replace the entire intake manifold just to get a new coolant crossover in there.
no
Dam. What a mess. I'm trying to replace the gasket underneath the thermastat as it blew on me today.
It’s bolted from the bottom so you can’t get the aluminum crossover off without taking the whole manifold off
Hey Brian, I have 2003 Ford Expedition 4.6l. I am losing radiator fluid and have a #7 cylinder fault when I hooked the code reader up. I also get the white smoke out of the exhaust but not a lot. At first I thought it was a head gasket failure but I did the chemical check on the radiator fill tank and it showed no combustion gases present and my oil is clean. How do i tell if it is a intake manifold failure for sure because I don't wanna drop a bunch of money and labor into a SUV that has a blown head gasket and isn't worth the money.
What would you use if you can't find a Ford intake manifold? What about gaskets? Victor Reinz or Fel-Pro gaskets if no Ford is available?
fel-pro
Do you have tips on installing the intake on a 5.4 3 valve? I'm fighting with the vacuum port on the back of mine in my '07 Expedition.
I know this video is old so I hope you see this comment. I recently got a P2004 code on my 06' f150. I am going to have to replace the IMRC which involves taking off the upper intake manifold. Do you have a video on how to remove it?
Hello. What is that gauge on the aluminum cross over with a small looking pipe on it used for ? I replace the intake manifold and now there is a noise like pressure coming out somewhere in the engine but no leaks. Maybe i did not tighten it enough ?
Removing the intake to replace knock sensor realized that the “sound deadener” is cracked on the front. Does that cause any other issues other than possible louder sounds? I have the 02 Expedition 4.6.
Yup just toss it.
@@FordTechMakulocothanks for the prompt response, brother. Reading more about it I found this is part of the lower plenum, and the part that seems cracked is where the intake runner valve mounts to. I have not finished taking out the whole thing (will remove it this morning) but I have also read others saying that what cracks is the outer insulation layer, not the plenum. Any thoughts on that? I have not found a single listing for the lower plenum WITH the spot for the intake runner valve control.
97 f150 4.6 liter has a aluminum intake. On the bottom of it is what looks like a plastic tank, on the back of it is some kind of sensor that goes into the tank and has a flap on it that swivels, spring loaded... what the heck is that sensor? It has a large O ring around the outside of it and I was wanting to replace the O ring while I got this thing apart... doing a engine overhaul. Leave it to Ford to come up with some weird shit... Lol.
I got a question back in August 2016 I replaced my 5.4 in order to get it out intake had to come off well not long after that intake started leaking water in the back around cylinder 4 never miss fired though well I decided to replace it yesterday got it back together and now it's missing bad intermittently though any suggestions. I also unplugged ever coil pack and motor changes tune Everytime I also sprayed break cleaner around intake no change
I have a 2007 ford explorer with 4.6 and it has a ticking sound coming from the passenger side. How hard is it to remove the intake manifold.
Can you take the coolant cross-over pipe off without removing the intake?
no
Has the design changed for the 5.4 l Triton engine? It looks like the crossover could be removed without removing the intake? I am asking since my 2010 has developed the leak at the driver side crossover.
Have you ever seen extreme vacuum on the oil fill on the passenger side valve cover? And or crank case?
Thanks for the intake heads up. I'm not even going to look at my old one and just order a new one. While I have this 5.4 2v apart I'm looking at this engine valley and thinking of adding a drain hole out the back. Have you ever seen this done? I'm concerned about fluids collecting in there maybe even gas and causing a fire.
Did you ever get any input back on your idea of adding a drain hole for the ford intake valley area?
Hey buddy I have a question. Do I need to remove the intake just to replace the coolant cross over ?? Can I get to the bolts underneath???
2 of the bolts are entirely unaccessible unless it's removed. So sadly no.