Simple In Floor Heat
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 ก.ย. 2024
- My In-floor radiant heat system in my pole barn workshop is finally complete. My system includes 3 runs of 1/2" PEX 300' long and a 30 gallon Power Vent water heater. The system also contains a pump and controller, manifolds, strainer, water separator, and expansion tank.
This heating system for my shop is working great. Once it came up to temperature the system barely ever runs. I have been out in the shop working for 6 or 8 hours and the heating system never kicked on once. My guess is that it only runs once or twice a day to maintain 60 degrees.
For reference, I started my system on December 10th and filmed this video on December 29th. I live in Michigan where the temps have been in the 20's at night and 30's during the day. I'm sure it will work a bit harder once the temps get into the single digits.
I am not an HVAC professional, so this video is only demonstrating how I set up my own personal system.
Here are some links to the equipment I used:
Manifold: amzn.to/3pF1ine
1/2" PEX tubing: amzn.to/3mIfsCg
Pump: amzn.to/32HmDDH
Thermostat: amzn.to/3zfkbAd
30 PSI relief valve: amzn.to/3JwYQXJ
Taco Pump Relay amzn.to/3eCaIcT
Grainger Glycol: www.grainger.c...
Or check Menards: www.menards.co...
00:40 Overview of Radiant Floor System
03:34 Hydronic Anti-Freeze Fluid - Propylene Glycol
04:20 30 PSI Relief Valve for Radiant Heating
04:57 Piping and Flushing the System
04:51 Simple Control Setup
07:24 Thermostat
07:48 Comfortable Temperature of In-floor Radiant Heat
09:48 Cost Breakdown of In-floor Heating System
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3/24/24 - I'm prepping the basement floor now in my new foundation. Very simple solution. Great critic and explanation.
I'd pipe that 30lb relief valve into one of those empty jugs the antifreeze came in so that $200 a jug stuff isn't wasted down the drain. You can probably reuse it.
Actually that is a great idea. Thanks!
Since many people already put a bucket under the relief pipe to keep track of any drips, that's a great idea.
Good, clear communication here. I actually understood this one. Thanks.
SIMPLE IN FLOOR HEAT FOLLOWUP: Great video!! Did you find you did not need a back flow preventer and PRV.... how is system after 2 years of using. Did you make any changes? Thanks!!
Awesome setup !! Thank you for the walkthrough. You explained it perfectly Great job !!
Good video, nice details on parts and assembly, blowing out and pre-rinsing the lines!! (great ideas), I want to do the same thing with my pex, it’s been in the slab for several years too. The only thing I don’t see on your system is a feed to water source - I put those on my boiler and connected through pressure reducer and anti back flow fittings in case the system called for replacement water due to whatever causes water loss - expansion/contraction/evaporation/minor leaks not sure- but they said I needed to include it.
I did not include makeup water on mine because the only way I would need any is if I had a leak. On a system as small as mine the expansion tank handles any expansion/contraction issues. I don't have water in the barn so I would have to have a container and pump so for now I'll go without. I haven't had a problem yet, so fingers crossed. If I got low on water my $100 pump would burn out first and it'll cost more than that for a makeup system. If definitely wouldn't hurt if you have a water source handy. Good luck with your system.
If you put a makeup water source on it,,I would recommend putting a flow switch on it so you know it put water in. Otherwise potentially it could be pumping water out of the system under the slab or in your garage. You could hook it up to a light or a buzzer so you know it burped.
I have those braided flex hose on my system too. The hotter one failed and leaked so I replaced it. It leaked again bad. Replaced them both with pieces of oxypex.
Looks great, almost identical to my setup. I agree to K.I.S.S. Two things to note, to keep constant pressure (assuming you have a water source) it to place a PRV with a back flow preventer into feed side before the pump. If your system looses water then you have makeup water. Next is to increase your HW temp, WH’s don’t like to run below say 115 or you’re get condensation, I found that with mine. Also, is your thermostat air or slab sensor. Mine is a slab sensor that works really well. The air sensor seemed to not be very responsive and the system would overshoot the set point. With an in-slab sensor it was very responsive. I just ran a piece of pex into the slab and pushed the swore sensor down it. I have a 32x30 shoot with 3 loops set at 65 and it works great! It’s a woodworking shop, so kept a bit warmer.
How's he goin'? You have a top notch heating system here Corey!!! Maybe expensive, but comparing that to other types of heat sources, it's probably is in the same area. Very nice and your should be proud of the shop you now have!! Nice to see you back on and Happy New Year!!!
Thanks Mike!
4:50 Nice system! Just a comment. If by chance the pressure relief dumps hot water into that plastic drain, I guarentee you that you will find a melted mess! I can say that with certainty, because that is what happened to me. I asked the hardware store BEFORE I plumbed the pressure relief into the plastic pipe; they assured me that it "could take anything I could give it"...wrong! Quite the mess. I ended up connecting the pressure relief into a dedicated copper drain line outside. Good luck!
You used PVC and it melted on you? what temperature did you have your water tank at? PVC can handle like 180F and water tanks are usually around 130F...
@@whattheschmidt I agree, something not right there. Pvc should easily handle the hottest hot water from any standard water heater. Thermostat failure on the water heater make it get far hotter than it should have maybe? Could be what triggered the relief drain as well if that's the case.
A lot of houses are plumbed with pvc, and their hot water lines don't melt.
Can you show me how to wire in the thermostat to the Taco and pump please!
Great video. I'm putting mine together now and it's similar to your setup. One question: how did you fill the system and how did you purge the air out of the whole thing. Once the air comes out through the separator, do you have to keep adding glycol from time to time? Is there a way to check the level of liquid currently in the system? Thanks. John
Why did you put strainer and pump on the outlet and not inlet? Also, stariner should always come before the pump
Have you considered a tankless instead of tanked? I have used Titan Tankless (electric) products with good results in radiant applications.
Nice design and install. How did you insulate the slab?
am i missing something, there is no domestic feed to the water heater do you manually feed water when needed
Correct, when I turn it on for the season I may have to add a little water to get my pressure up to 10-15 lbs. But unless I have a leak somewhere it doesn't lose any water. It's a closed loop system.
Can you tell me what hot water heater brand you are using? I’m setting up my shop in a similar manner and was curious about your HW heater. Thanks
It's a Richmond 30 gallon power vent from Menards. Natural gas.
I keep my garage at 55. I work in a long sleeve shirt and my lightweight welding jacket and I'm plenty comfortable. I;ve worn a sweatshirt out there, but not for long.
What is the highest floor surface temperature you can get at 12" apart?
nice simple setup. I would just say that your loops are a little long and the spacing is wide.
Could a 28 gallon hot water tank be used for your system since in a 1/2” pex pipe 300’ long only has about 4 gallons in the lines when circulating
Thanks
Still waiting for your input…thanks
Be safe guys
I hate to say it but Amazon's got the better deal I think I got mine for a 89 bucks with everything
Do you have a link? I'd be interested in it.
This isn’t simple. Simple for home builders maybe.
Have you been able to get an idea of cost to run the system?
This is the first system I’ve found set up how I am doing mile. I wanted to K.I.S.S. So one thermostat one pump and a water heater. Doesn’t get much simpler. Thanks glad to hear my proof of concept is going to work great. As someone who is cold all
The time and wanting the comfort of radiant heat I can’t wait to pour my concrete!
I did almost the exact same ting in my woodworking shop been running from 2005,I made my manifolds and used ball valves. It works so much better than forced air, less dust.also just a regular gas water heater with water it also is for the wash sink.. Highly recommend this system, wish I could have it in my house.
Great video, I had this idea for a year now after I got 2 quotes to replace my Oil Boiler for ...Hold tight .......A cool 19,450. AND $17.000. I thought to myself forget about ripping me off , I will go another route. This is exactly what I had plans for , Tomorrow my gas hot water tank gets professional installed 50 gallons for 4000. tax in. Im ok with that but i am sure I can do this for 1000k. NOT 19k from rip off guys.
Why not spend a little more money and get a gas boiler? They’re actually rated for space heating (a water heater is not) and they’re much more efficient than a water heater.
True. Or an on demand hot water heater...
Hi, have a question, we do have infloor heating as well and we turned off the thermostat in the summer and trying to turn on back this fall but there is no heat on the floor? What do you recommend how to check what’s is the problem is?
Replace that plastic drain valve on the water heater. Mine let go last night. 2 years old. Just one thin hard o-ring on soft plastic is all that's holding the water back. Hopefully you get to it time.
Great vid! Curious as to why you used such a large water heater? Seems like a small 10-15 gallon one would work just fine.
How did you fill the tank?
Can we get an update? Is it still working good with no issues?
Still works great after 3 seasons now.
Thank you... I'm gettin ready to duplicate. @CountryFamily
I have gas boiler thats costing me aroung $400 month in the winter time and im looking for another option. How much do u pay in gas bill pr month with this system? Thanks
Monthly energy cost? Said it was up three weeks don't know if you have a billing history for a trend?
The wood shop I work in has overhead radiant heat and its 50-52 when I get there in the morning and takes til almost noon to reach 60. Sure would be nice to have a setup like yours and keep a constant temp.
Man 50 -52 is perfect to work in! No sweating and can still bring your t shirt
Is the anode rod still in the water heater tank or have a reaction to the chemicals added to the system?
That is a nice system. I am thinking of getting an outdoor wood furnace, so heating with hot water would be nice. But it's too late for having pipes in the concrete. So I'll have to go with forced air. As far as your feet are warm, you feel fine... Thanks!
Thanks, I am buying a new house (1300 sg ft) and looking to heat my crawlspace to keep the floor and pipes from freezing. I want to mount 3 - 8 ft baseboard floor registers to the concrete and then hook it up like yours. I think it would work great.
How big is your pole barn? I am looking to do a small cabin 600 sq ft. (400sq ft in Kcrete over wood floor and 200 feet under wood floor). Thinking a 20 gallon water heater would work for me....
32x48
HAVE THE BEST HAPPY NEW YEAR SIR 👍👌🙏😇 Very Well detail explaination video Sir 👌🧐 All the best Sir and all your family CHeers 👌👍🙏😇 🍻
Thanks Dave! Cheers and Happy New Year to you and your family.
@@CountryFamily 😉👌👍🙏😇🍻
Excellente siñor, very good explanation
Hello...
I am trying to decide on the right heating device for my space, which has wood floors and a crawl space with 20 inches of clearance. I don't have gas available, but I need to use an electric system. The heating area is 24 x 50, and I've identified eight zones. I would like to know the mathematical calculations for determining the best unit to use, whether it's a hot water tank or a tankless system. If I go with a hot water tank, I'd like to know the appropriate gallon capacity. If I choose a tankless system, I need to determine the minimum gallons per minute (GPM). TIA
Really excellent video, thank you so much.
I'm just about to finish assembling my system. Just like yours, Water Heater source (400.00) and home-made control board (800.00) instead of purchase one for 1800.00. Glad to know it works well.
I absolutely love the simplistic way you did this. On my too do list for my home. I have access to the subfloor in the crawlspace and plan on doing this later this spring.
Where did you find your compound temp and pressure guage
The system is great , can you show me how you have the Taco relay wired up
Great video of a simple system. Thank you
You have the pump on the cold water side? Wouldn't you pump hot water INTO the system. I'm building an OPEN system using my propane WH for the kitchen, bathroom and floor heating: HW tees off from the wh to floor heating, [air separator, pump to manifold , return manifold tees into the cold water supply to the WH...does that makes sense?
I don't think it's legal to use same hwt for potable water and home heating.
What type of switch do I use for the pump? Controller and thermostat? Link? Thanks!
Relay.
is this a electric 220 v water heater or a gas unit..thks.. System looks great, was wanting to something the same but electricity here is so high it would cost a fortune to heat the home....or so im thinking it will
He spoke about the power vent on it.
It's natural gas power vent
You're damn lucky your pex lines in the slab didn't get cut when the expansion joints were sawcut. People, please use zip strips when you're pouring radiant heated slabs and for the love of efficiency use XPS to insulate the floor and foundation in and outside. Then install meshups for the in-slab wire/rebar to float the pex in the middle of the pad.
Zip strips look terrible . They are not strait small amount of conc flake off the top.. maybe for some junker shed or if it’s getting covered (tile,carpet,ect). Plus it’s a pain in ass to do.. saw cuts are only 1/2 inch deep. If u have tube float that high. You got more issues that are pressing.. I’ve never cut a tube. Plus saw cuts that are caulked look so sharp and professional
@@jfdesignsinc.innovationsid1583 Caulk is for mistakes and in crete work with heavy drive over loads, the edges of the cuts crack leaving a bulging imperfection of caulk that the owner will pull up anyway.
The pipe is 3 inches below the concrete
Nice setup but I'd much rather use a tankless system for a radiant floor heat setup. More cost upfront but less space for the system. My shop is set a 50 and I can bump it to 65 easily. The hot water heater tank will bump on & off even if the space isn't calling for it as water cools inside the tank....
How would this work with a heat pump water heater? Im getting one for my house it that water needs to be pretty hot, like 125F but a system like this runs at 100f. Should i just buy a separate heat pump water heater, or is it possible to use hot water from main hot water heater?
Maybe I missed it but can you give us a general idea where you're located? Hard winters comes to mind! Thanks for the video!
Mid-Michigan
What is the source of the pulse-clicking in this video's audio? Router? Pump?
Actually that noise was the camera for some reason. I've had that happen in some other video footage too. Not sure why.
amazing how simple solutions can work for way less money that insanely expensive corporate or over regualted crap