Hi - I'm probably way too late. I agree with a lot of what you did. I might recommend another 1/4" lower for the upper midriff seam. Additionally, a good way to do fix that gaping is what's called a 'hollow chest adjustment'. It doesn't necessarily raise the neckline, but it decreases the fabric in the center front (though it keeps the size at the sleeve) tapering to nothing at the sleeve armscye. I might also recommend a slight narrow shoulder adjustment (which keeps the shape of the armhole but pivots it in a little toward the center front vertically). It looks like the armhole is pretty close on the back for you, but a very slight (1/4") narrow shoulder adjustment in the back would bring the armhole seam up. Your shoulder seam looks like it's in the right place. You should feel VERY GOOD about yourself. Not many sewists take the time for a muslin (new or otherwise), but I think it's really worth it considering the amount of time and money you're spending. With the adjustments you take the time to make now, you'll have a sort of 'block' (which is a 2 dimensional (flat) version of your body shape that builds in darts, etc. to it fits your contours) - so from then on, you'll be able to see what size armhole you like, the distance from your neck to shoulder, drop to your under bust, etc. I understand your frustration with this make, but try to give yourself a break. Like many woman, you have loads of contours and that means no one pattern is going to fit all (in fact, I doubt 10% of women get a well-fitted garment without pattern alterations). YOU ARE DOING GREAT. Hang in there and your minor adjustments will really pay off with the need for fewer muslins in the future, and hours of hours of joyful sewing. You don't have to be as precise as she is, but Alexandra Morgan is a FABULOUS fit explainer - check out her channel. Good luck.
Thank you so much for all of your helpful advice and encouragement! 😊 It's never too late to learn something new about fitting! I am hoping to make this pattern again someday, so I will definitely consider some of these tweaks! 😊
I so so so admire you! I'm just getting back into sewing garments and I'm very timid about it all! I'm 64 and have been sewing for over 50 years. Besides pj bottoms, I just quit sewing garments. They didn't fit so I'd throw outfit and pattern away! Adjustments? That seemed like something a professional would do and out of my league. I'm not sure I'll ever sew up a muslin because now I think the muslin and the pattern would even up in the trash. My hat is off to you! Your dress will be beautiful and it will fit perfectly. All your work, all your effort will shine right thru. Absolutely cannot wait to see your final, beautiful red dress!
Thank you, Carol! I appreciate your kind words 😊 Making muslins is hard work and very tedious and I am still learning a lot. My garments aren't perfectly fitted and I've learned to let that perfection go. It feels so good when you get something fitting just a little better, it makes you forget all about the frustrations of the muslins. I encourage you to try again! Start with a very basic design and go from there. We're all in this together...no one fits patterns straight out of the envelope and if they do, I am convinced they are hiding something! Haha!
Thank you so much for talking about frustration and confusion factoring in, and also taking a break to go eat some food. I've found I often push myself past that point and end up not liking what I've ended up with or quitting all together. I'm trying to learn to take breaks and take care of my needs to help along with my processes, including breaks, food, and sleep! It's an important side of crafting and hobbies that often goes unspoken.
Thanks for showing us your muslins, I learn at lot from them. You made the right choice in the last one. Your fitting looks great and your dress will be beautiful!
Katie, I appreciate all the time you put into your videos. I am so confused on fitting. The last time I sewed clothes for myself, I made my pattern size straight out of the envelope. Well things have changed. I need to make all the adjustments allowed just to get a moderate degree of fit. I'm sorry you struggle with your fittings. But, I do like that you explain why you're making the adjustment. I've sewn for more years than you have been alive, so, take advice from an old lady, I'm learning a lot from you. Thanks
Wow, that is a compliment! I am really happy to hear my video provided some value, even to a seasoned sewist! 😊 I am sorry to hear you have trouble with fitting. That must be so frustrating, especially if you used to be able to sew straight out the envelope 😔 It seems like fitting really is trial and error and learning what works for your body. It's such a process and it's not my favorite part of sewing, but I have faith that it will all pay off and someday I will know exactly what I need to do to get a good fit! Easier said than done when you're in the thick of it....haha.
Yay! I am so happy you enjoyed it! I really like making this type of video too. It makes a lot of sense for me so see the muslins side by side and compare/contrast them.
Your fabric choice is beautiful! I think you did the right thing in adding the 1/2" to the under bust seam - and you are correct - the weight of the skirt will help it to sit right. Can't wait to see the finished dress - if you show us could you give us a good long view of the back? In the future fit journeys you might want to check out the electronic version of the book: "Pattern Fitting with Confidence " by Nancy Zieman
Thanks, Louise! I'll definitely give a good view of it from all sides, I'll have to try and remember! Thank you for the book recommendation--always looking for helpful ones!
Thank you for taking us along on your fitting journey! It can be so frustrating but very worth it in the end. Can’t wait to see your dress when it’s finished😊
Hi: awesome muslins. I agree, go with size 20. I agree raising the neckline. Perhaps you can do a snap closure. I have done it with careful tacking so threads don’t show. Hopefully the shoulder will fit better once the neckline facing is added. Neckline adjustment should help also not having weight of mic. The armhole is a bit bulky between shoulder and underarm, however live with it. It should be comfortable and others won’t notice unless they sew. May I suggest it will look cute to use reverse on sleeve cuffs with reverse self-covered buttons or shiny side. The area under bust to waist will also look cute with contrast and contrasting buttons. I would probably do the whole dress shiny as it is so beautiful and will look elegant and polished. Keep up your efforts. You are talented and determined. Looking forward to seeing it finished on you.
Thank you for your thoughtful comment, Joanne! A snap just might do the trick. I was thinking the same thing for the reverse sleeve cuffs and buttons. Now I am thinking I might go all shiny too! It's so hard to decide! Someday, when I figure out the bust, I'll have to tackle the underarm seam...it's such a cute pattern, I'm sure I'll want to make it more than once! 😊
You did a great job working to get the right fit. One of my least favorite things to do when sewing an outfit. The labels are very cute!! Thanks for the video. I’m enjoying your vlogmas videos!!
I am glad you are enjoying! Fitting is one of my least fav things too, along with cutting. It makes such a difference though and is so important to the process.I am learning to enjoy it more by sharing these videos, so that is a good thing.
Hey Katie, your not alone with the trials of this dress. I’ve had a journey with fitting the bodice of this dress as well. I have around the same measurements as you and found that the size 18 fit how I wanted in the end with some alterations. I also followed Sian in adding lengths to the bottom of the front piece but it made my neck line gape way to much. I also followed her directions in raising the neck front. In the end I made the following adjustments: - Traced size 18 - 1 inch FBA instead of adding length. This stoped the gaping at the front. Copied a couple of blog posts and pictures. - Raised front match point by 2inch - Sewed the side bodice seam at 1cm instead of 1.5cm. for a little extra space. Happy vlogmass x
This is so helpful and is giving me a lot of ponder! Thank you for sharing! Tbh I am a little concerned about the gaping. I went though and altered the pattern today to raise the neckline following Sian's tutorial and was thinking I should probably test fit that change. Interesting about the FBA adding length, but fixing the gaping. I kinda want to try your adjustments and see how that changes things. It would be interesting to see the comparison to what I did yesterday.
I’ve found that I’m more of an 18 on top, but a 20 long sleeve length is nearly perfect. The area that needs to be a 20 or 22 is my waist and hips. I’ve never been able to get a “V” neckline to work on me. Most people are a mix between sizes. Best of luck! Cheryl
It's so satisfying when you figure these things out, isn't it?! I've never really thought about if I need a different sleeve length 🤔 I usually have to go down in the hips, they are narrow compared to my upper half. I never bother if its a fuller skirt though, then it doesn't seem to make much of a difference.
Ok, just incase ...if you take 0.5 from the bodice you also take the same from the band. If you have never sewed with satin ...satin shows every tiny little thing you do right or wrong. Be cautious in pressing satin. Best to use a pressing cloth and on the inside of the fabric. 'So sew mad" just sewed on satin and it may be helpful to watch her vlogmas 7 and 8.
I'll check her videos out! Thanks for the reminders, Deb! It's been a while since I've sewn with satin...your comment has it all coming back to me now 🙈 Going to try and take my time ,so I have the best result I can get!
Thanks for sharing your struggles with this pattern! I have found it challenging as well, but not giving up!
Hi - I'm probably way too late. I agree with a lot of what you did. I might recommend another 1/4" lower for the upper midriff seam. Additionally, a good way to do fix that gaping is what's called a 'hollow chest adjustment'. It doesn't necessarily raise the neckline, but it decreases the fabric in the center front (though it keeps the size at the sleeve) tapering to nothing at the sleeve armscye. I might also recommend a slight narrow shoulder adjustment (which keeps the shape of the armhole but pivots it in a little toward the center front vertically). It looks like the armhole is pretty close on the back for you, but a very slight (1/4") narrow shoulder adjustment in the back would bring the armhole seam up. Your shoulder seam looks like it's in the right place. You should feel VERY GOOD about yourself. Not many sewists take the time for a muslin (new or otherwise), but I think it's really worth it considering the amount of time and money you're spending. With the adjustments you take the time to make now, you'll have a sort of 'block' (which is a 2 dimensional (flat) version of your body shape that builds in darts, etc. to it fits your contours) - so from then on, you'll be able to see what size armhole you like, the distance from your neck to shoulder, drop to your under bust, etc. I understand your frustration with this make, but try to give yourself a break. Like many woman, you have loads of contours and that means no one pattern is going to fit all (in fact, I doubt 10% of women get a well-fitted garment without pattern alterations). YOU ARE DOING GREAT. Hang in there and your minor adjustments will really pay off with the need for fewer muslins in the future, and hours of hours of joyful sewing. You don't have to be as precise as she is, but Alexandra Morgan is a FABULOUS fit explainer - check out her channel. Good luck.
Thank you so much for all of your helpful advice and encouragement! 😊 It's never too late to learn something new about fitting! I am hoping to make this pattern again someday, so I will definitely consider some of these tweaks! 😊
I so so so admire you! I'm just getting back into sewing garments and I'm very timid about it all! I'm 64 and have been sewing for over 50 years. Besides pj bottoms, I just quit sewing garments. They didn't fit so I'd throw outfit and pattern away! Adjustments? That seemed like something a professional would do and out of my league. I'm not sure I'll ever sew up a muslin because now I think the muslin and the pattern would even up in the trash. My hat is off to you! Your dress will be beautiful and it will fit perfectly. All your work, all your effort will shine right thru. Absolutely cannot wait to see your final, beautiful red dress!
Thank you, Carol! I appreciate your kind words 😊 Making muslins is hard work and very tedious and I am still learning a lot. My garments aren't perfectly fitted and I've learned to let that perfection go. It feels so good when you get something fitting just a little better, it makes you forget all about the frustrations of the muslins. I encourage you to try again! Start with a very basic design and go from there. We're all in this together...no one fits patterns straight out of the envelope and if they do, I am convinced they are hiding something! Haha!
Thank you so much for talking about frustration and confusion factoring in, and also taking a break to go eat some food. I've found I often push myself past that point and end up not liking what I've ended up with or quitting all together. I'm trying to learn to take breaks and take care of my needs to help along with my processes, including breaks, food, and sleep! It's an important side of crafting and hobbies that often goes unspoken.
I am happy you can relate and that I am not the only one! Snacks really do help the productivity and clarity of mind!!
Thanks for showing us your muslins, I learn at lot from them. You made the right choice in the last one. Your fitting looks great and your dress will be beautiful!
Thank you! I am so glad you found the video helpful! 😊 💫
Katie, I appreciate all the time you put into your videos. I am so confused on fitting. The last time I sewed clothes for myself, I made my pattern size straight out of the envelope. Well things have changed. I need to make all the adjustments allowed just to get a moderate degree of fit. I'm sorry you struggle with your fittings. But, I do like that you explain why you're making the adjustment. I've sewn for more years than you have been alive, so, take advice from an old lady, I'm learning a lot from you.
Thanks
Wow, that is a compliment! I am really happy to hear my video provided some value, even to a seasoned sewist! 😊 I am sorry to hear you have trouble with fitting. That must be so frustrating, especially if you used to be able to sew straight out the envelope 😔 It seems like fitting really is trial and error and learning what works for your body. It's such a process and it's not my favorite part of sewing, but I have faith that it will all pay off and someday I will know exactly what I need to do to get a good fit! Easier said than done when you're in the thick of it....haha.
Such a good habit of sewing muslins… I need to get into that habit!!!
It is and I am too! Not my fav thing, but it pays off!
This is my favorite type of Vlog! Great job on the bodice! Your work on this will really make your satin dress special!
Yay! I am so happy you enjoyed it! I really like making this type of video too. It makes a lot of sense for me so see the muslins side by side and compare/contrast them.
Your fabric choice is beautiful! I think you did the right thing in adding the 1/2" to the under bust seam - and you are correct - the weight of the skirt will help it to sit right. Can't wait to see the finished dress - if you show us could you give us a good long view of the back? In the future fit journeys you might want to check out the electronic version of the book: "Pattern Fitting with Confidence " by Nancy Zieman
Thanks, Louise! I'll definitely give a good view of it from all sides, I'll have to try and remember! Thank you for the book recommendation--always looking for helpful ones!
Thank you for taking us along on your fitting journey! It can be so frustrating but very worth it in the end. Can’t wait to see your dress when it’s finished😊
I think it is always worth it too! It's so annoying in the moment though! Haha. Fingers crossed it fits well in the final fabric 🤞
Wow, I think you got the fit pretty good. I enjoy learning with you & from you on fitting, thank you. Love the labels.
Happy to hear that, Sherri! 💖
Hi: awesome muslins. I agree, go with size 20. I agree raising the neckline. Perhaps you can do a snap closure. I have done it with careful tacking so threads don’t show. Hopefully the shoulder will fit better once the neckline facing is added. Neckline adjustment should help also not having weight of mic. The armhole is a bit bulky between shoulder and underarm, however live with it. It should be comfortable and others won’t notice unless they sew. May I suggest it will look cute to use reverse on sleeve cuffs with reverse self-covered buttons or shiny side. The area under bust to waist will also look cute with contrast and contrasting buttons. I would probably do the whole dress shiny as it is so beautiful and will look elegant and polished. Keep up your efforts. You are talented and determined. Looking forward to seeing it finished on you.
Thank you for your thoughtful comment, Joanne! A snap just might do the trick. I was thinking the same thing for the reverse sleeve cuffs and buttons. Now I am thinking I might go all shiny too! It's so hard to decide! Someday, when I figure out the bust, I'll have to tackle the underarm seam...it's such a cute pattern, I'm sure I'll want to make it more than once! 😊
You did a great job working to get the right fit. One of my least favorite things to do when sewing an outfit. The labels are very cute!! Thanks for the video. I’m enjoying your vlogmas videos!!
I am glad you are enjoying! Fitting is one of my least fav things too, along with cutting. It makes such a difference though and is so important to the process.I am learning to enjoy it more by sharing these videos, so that is a good thing.
The size 20 muslin looks good “Go For It”.
👍👍👍
You’ve done very well for being a newbie sewist! Great job!
Thank you so much! 😊
Great job! I think The slope of the shoulder is too steep.
Changing it can do wonders with gaping and overall fit on the bust.
Hey Katie, your not alone with the trials of this dress.
I’ve had a journey with fitting the bodice of this dress as well. I have around the same measurements as you and found that the size 18 fit how I wanted in the end with some alterations.
I also followed Sian in adding lengths to the bottom of the front piece but it made my neck line gape way to much. I also followed her directions in raising the neck front.
In the end I made the following adjustments:
- Traced size 18
- 1 inch FBA instead of adding length. This stoped the gaping at the front. Copied a couple of blog posts and pictures.
- Raised front match point by 2inch
- Sewed the side bodice seam at 1cm instead of 1.5cm. for a little extra space.
Happy vlogmass x
This is so helpful and is giving me a lot of ponder! Thank you for sharing! Tbh I am a little concerned about the gaping. I went though and altered the pattern today to raise the neckline following Sian's tutorial and was thinking I should probably test fit that change. Interesting about the FBA adding length, but fixing the gaping. I kinda want to try your adjustments and see how that changes things. It would be interesting to see the comparison to what I did yesterday.
@@WanderingBobbin happy to help!! it will be interesting to see how it goes for you. Please keep sharing updates. 😊
@@chloeblackwell2990 Will do!
I’ve found that I’m more of an 18 on top, but a 20 long sleeve length is nearly perfect. The area that needs to be a 20 or 22 is my waist and hips. I’ve never been able to get a “V” neckline to work on me.
Most people are a mix between sizes.
Best of luck!
Cheryl
It's so satisfying when you figure these things out, isn't it?! I've never really thought about if I need a different sleeve length 🤔 I usually have to go down in the hips, they are narrow compared to my upper half. I never bother if its a fuller skirt though, then it doesn't seem to make much of a difference.
Ok, just incase ...if you take 0.5 from the bodice you also take the same from the band. If you have never sewed with satin ...satin shows every tiny little thing you do right or wrong. Be cautious in pressing satin. Best to use a pressing cloth and on the inside of the fabric. 'So sew mad" just sewed on satin and it may be helpful to watch her vlogmas 7 and 8.
I'll check her videos out! Thanks for the reminders, Deb! It's been a while since I've sewn with satin...your comment has it all coming back to me now 🙈 Going to try and take my time ,so I have the best result I can get!
For the neckline gaping, take in at neck shoulder seam.
thanks for the tip!!