How to Install Standing Seam Metal Roofing
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 6 ก.ย. 2019
- Step by step instruction on how to install a standing seam metal roof. We cover all the basics of metal roof installation. From underlayment, venting, layout and squaring up, installing drip edge, cutting and hemming panels, installing panels and installing ridge cap flashing. #metal #roofing installed by #craftsman
For more information about flashing for your project, see www.unioncorrugating.com/liter... - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
Here’s a design diagram of the roof anchor system we used to work on and get down safely off this high pitch metal roof....
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Pls post
Great video
www.heirloombuilders.com/news/2019/10/27/steep-metal-roof-anchoring-system-and-work-platform
See minute 10:05 for better view of our steep roof anchoring system
I do standing seam as well and I get the homeowner to consolidate the roof vents(plumbing, bathroom fan etc) so that they all come out in the same area via a fake chimney. Less holes equals less holes and if your roof doesn't have any holes, how can it have any holes? Just a thought. Cheers
brandon zimmerman that’s a great idea
Gable to gable...a roofers dream...no valley or hips! My favorite
I've watched this video more times than I care to admit. The eave trim all around is super clean and a much better look than the bulky rake trim pieces. Thanks for all the good info.
Joey Prather it’s easier too once you get the hang of it! Thanks for watching 😎🙏
I saw your video on siding which was SO helpful and found this one by accident=doubly blessed! Thank you for all the little particulars!
Lela Arneson that’s really nice to hear! Glad you found both videos helpful. We’ll try to keep it up. Cheers!
This is what taking pride in your work really means. Besides the customers appreciation, it’s always great to work around a professional crew on a worksite when it happens. Great job on that roof and with the video.
B Brown thanks!
I'm a metal roofing supplier in Statesville NC. I know what professional work looks like and I seen it on this video. Great work.
Thanks! We take pride in our work.
Clearly youre blind 😂 the screws on the top are way too low and should be covered by the Zbar or Zmetal and the starter or drip edge should have a 90 degree fold
Best metal roof video that I have seen.
The opening on the ridge of the roof is mighty small on this building. Lots of air flows into the underside of the eaves through the soffit vents, especially during wind events. So an equal amount of air must be able to flow out the ridge openings. It is basic math to figure the volume. During Hurricane Charlie (2004) in Florida many homes were destroyed as the air blew in, but the vents were not balanced to allow the wind to escape. So the wind found the weakest part of the roof blowing large sections of the roofing apart; allowing rain to enter.
Thank you very much for sharing. Love quality work and pride doing it
Kent Karlsson thank you!
I just work on sheds with metal roofs nothing as complicated as this, this is a hole nother level learned alot saved!! Very cool expert level.
mggcomputers glad you found this info helpful. I love building sheds 👍
We want to build a small house in the woods somewhere ,it seems i stumbled onto a great resource for a diy non builder to pull it off. Thanks for taking the time to explain so in detail
Brent Sharp 😁that’s great to hear! Best of luck to you with your house. Welcome aboard!
Great video! Would love to see more of these from you, and the more detailed the better!
Tegan69 you got it! Please subscribe and stay tuned
@@HeirloomBuilders Oh yeah, I subscribed!
great looking roof, and the roof bracket is good idea i'm stealing, I learned a lot.
f r e e b i r d excellent. Glad you found it helpful
My God, good video with safety. Incredible safety tips. Excellent for beginners that need to be aware of safety.
Good to hear. Safety first, right?!
Nice work! Thanks for taking the time to share
Thanks, skeef roberts! I hope you are well
Thanks for all the good advice
Love the channel. Subscribed!
Thank you, make more videos. Very good job. Lots of details.
We are ramping up our video production. Thanks for watching! Stay tuned.
Thanks, got some good points from the video. I often see advice to 'make sure everything is square' during prep. Rarely do I see advice on what to do if it aint. Perhaps a video on how to handle some 'problem' situations.
Thanks for the feedback. I’ll work on that. We’re framing up a giant timber frame barn right and have to create joinery with twisted timbers. A video on how to deal with THAT might also be helpful. Stay tuned.
Incredible video, thank you
love the positive attitude
Great video! Exactly what I was looking for to refresh my memory since it's been a while. Best video on metal roofing on here imo.
Daniel thanks. I’m glad you found it helpful. Good luck on your upcoming project!
Love your work
A great job sir from Australia.
Great work!
Roof looks great-nice job
Thanks! We had fun on this one.
graced the whole roof crazy
Rob Bobcat - true that! We wouldn’t normally do it on a straight gable with 10/12 pitch, but it’s a good thing we did. Some of the screws holding panels at the ridge were too low and barely covered with zee bar. That grace select may be our saving grace on little exposed penetrations. We have a lot of solar penetrations too. I like to say it’s cheap insurance. Though it still cost $700!
Great video!!!
100% expert with a passion for what he does
ancient persia 😎🙏 thanks for watching!
Great job boys!
really nice work!
Excellent video. I'm not even in the market for a roof, yet. Was wondering why metal roofs are rare in New England. And if rare, experts are rare too!
j betancourt I’m not an expert on northern climates, but metal roofing sheds snow really well. Some people like the extra insulation of snow on the roof top. ?
Nice video! We do gable trim on the edges and do double lock 24 gauge standing seam! I love easy roofs like that but I always wear gloves to protect my hands from cuts. I also use Sketcher hiking 🥾 boots and can walk on my metal roofs (even 10 pitch although I don’t recommend it) over all you did a great video with plenty of explanations! Keep up the amazing work and stay safe 👍🏼
Contractor's Work Network do those sketches hiking boots last very long? My hikers always get trashed after working a roof even after just a few days!
HeirloomBuilders I also do shingles and that eats them up but sometimes stick to just metal for several months and yes they last! They’re call “the Sketchers Men’s Verdict” they have them on any shoe store that carries sketchers or you can just get them online. I’ve been using them for many years and don’t have any complaints. As with any shoes on a roof just make sure the bottom is clean when trying to walk on the metal.
Interesting, I like the way you did the sheet metal work and the layout looks terrific. I have witnessed problems with OSB against self adhered membranes if they're not vented like yours. What I have noticed with some forensic engineers is that 0SB will mold and decay rather quickly from condensation between OSB and self adhered membranes. Also sprayed in foam can sometimes trap moisture in lumber, and cause it to rot rapidly. It's a tough call with building codes that require tight houses. They are not always healthy if stud bays and joist bays can't ventilate. Sprayed in foam is controversial among some waterproofing consultant's. Always good to find a clever one who can provide a specification to distribute liability. We know fiberglass with an air space works. We know sprayed in foam is very energy efficient as long as the lumber is kept dry. Some forensic engineers have come across buildings with sprayed in foam that have framing that has turned into mulch between rigid bays of foam because the lumber could never dry out. Every situation is different, from a sunny side of the street, to a shady side on the same block, a different specification might be needed on a similar home.
Richard Adam Darriau you’re exactly right about every home needing a custom ventilation strategy and all the mold and rot problems with unventilated roofs. We always ventilate a roof with air baffles. Even if we spray foam the roof deck.
@silverbird58 do whatever the manufacturer recommends and have the waterproofing consultant who specializes in forensics verify the application.
NEVER do as the manufacturer recommends, unless you have his written warranty that he replaces the cost of the roof, labor and material; or you know, understand and agree with the recommendations. Nobody relevant elected any "experts", nor regulations dictators. They tend to themselves and not to the regulated. Till today regulations in USA prevent the making of wooden structures with plaster facades, that the wood won't rot within a few years.
Once, when the "experts" requested some sticky "shield" under one of my roofs. So I asked the "shield" agents, in writing, to produce a warranty paper for their "shield", stating that it will be perforated with 8000 fasteners. Then I submitted this exchange to my "experts" during a well attended meeting, asking them to state the reasoning for their request.
As to specs of metal roof, the best substrate consists of a minimum of 1" X 4" planks, (1" actual, not nominal), with 1/8"-3/8" gaps between them. The planks made from from non corrosive wood like spruce or pine. Cedar, most hard woods and most impregnated are a nono. The best is bare wood. If a "roofer" is unable to to do the job reliably without a watertight layer - he shouldn't! - he should flip burgers.
If somebody insists on waterproof layer, let him staple one using HIS own 100$ bills. These are the best there is on the market!!!
(You can still get away with most BREATHABLE NON REACTIVE, long lasting separation layer. Long ago they used such things as sea grass - the fibrous stuff found in the upper layers of ancient sofas from turn of the century.
The usage of bitumen in roofing serves mostly as a way to bury away the petro waste conveniently, charging the sucker, instead of paying him for the disposal service. Then they re-charge the sucker periodically to re-doing his precious pile of crap, while disposing of more of the petro waste. Joe B. wouldn't think of it
As to ventilation for different exposure variations of the different kinds of roofs, the traditional rule of thumb states: 2" of continuous air gap beneath the wooden deck, with continuous vent openings, at eave and ridge, each of cross section of 1/4000 (or maybe 1/2000, am not sure) of the corresponding roof side surface. Shine or rain.
I’m from Southern California, born and raised. This guy is without a doubt holding the thickest Californian accent of all time
TheSynysterVyrus I can’t help it 🤣
Nice job,and roof jig.Luckily we have man lifts.Oil canning is permissible in specs,Have a hard time not getting some especially in applications where you have two layers of rigid insulation over steel decking.I love the way you guys finished your ends on the roof cap, we use a different rake detail so we cant do it that way,but it looks sharp.
I bet that man lift is nice to have for lots of reasons! Two layers of rigid insulation: nice. You must be up north.
This is the first video I’ve seen of your Chanel....you really look like you know what’s up, I own a seamless gutter company and when you were talking about the drip edge not being the correct angle and it screwing things up....that’s when I knew lol....that is such a problem for me
McBoomSauce 🤩thanks! Where is your company located? Some people on here might benefit from knowing a local seamless gutter guy 😎 seamless gutters are the way to go.
Super nice job!!
John Twigg thanks! Stay tuned for more videos about this smart home
You got this down like a brain surgeon doing a daily routine! I love it when s#"t works. And this is smooth as gravy and taters. Now I'm starving must eat. Great video, it should be a requirement to watch before any installation.
excellent video
Nice job! Above and beyond what the company i work for does.
Thanks dude. Show em what's up.
Great video man! Thank you!😎
Paul Peck DrywallTube thanks Paul! Cheers
I have never done roofing but Im doing my own roof....very good lesson for me....I l like that jig to work around the ridge....
Sara Eliyah good luck on your roof!
@@HeirloomBuilders Thank you...you are a very good teacher...I mean your explanations are very through and simple
Damn fine roof!👍👍
Bad Driver thank you
I've never seen a metal roof that didn't have a bunch of screws sticking out of it. Sweet.
scott yd hopefully it will last a lifetime without having to replace screws!
Great video brother
Thanks, Shawn!
I'm gonna do it!
In all my years in construction I've never heard a roofer speak in 1/16's .
FlaGordonMoller😎 welcome aboard!
great video
Definitely a killer job i wish u would of showed more on the details and the jig u built to stand on and the plywood used to tie both sides together, i think thats what it was used for anyway super cool video thanks
Donnie Porter here’s a diagram of the work platform and anchor system... www.heirloombuilders.com/news/2019/10/27/steep-metal-roof-anchoring-system-and-work-platform
@@HeirloomBuilders thank u ive been in the const trade over 28yrs its nice to see your work and your jigs u built to do the job.. u dont see people using ther brains to work anymore thanks great video
The starter flashing should be under the Grace ice and water shield. That way any water that gets under the metal will go off of the roof and not onto the facia board
That's the way I did it for YEARS. Until a friend of mine that does roofing on the coast in 130 mph winds let me in on a pro tip: the drip edge is one of the first things to go in a wind failure. If you lap the grace ice and water shield over the fascia, but under the drip edge, any water will make it out over the fascia board. But if wind blows off the drip edge, and the flashing tape/membrane is on top, the membrane will go with it and expose the roof FRAMING to water damage. What are your thoughts about that idea?
@@HeirloomBuilders I also live on the West Coast and the biggest problem with your answer is the word IF. If you lap the grace ice and water shield over the fascia The problem is most people do not do this. I find that putting enough screws in the starter and your first screw in the sheet as low as possible works.
Install permanent fall protection attachment rings at the ridge for your solar installers and future maintenance!
Micah Watson never seen that! Seems like a great idea.
I had them installed on my older roof to keep the maintenance guys safe. 10/12 asphalt, but I caught the insulation crew tying off their fall protection to a roof support in the attic, of all things. It’s a really old house with 4 gables, and where the valleys meet is a single 2x4 support. Pull that out and 1/4 the roof collapses. I was shocked, ordered them down, and they moved it to the chimney in the attic. So I had 4 tie-downs installed, one per gable.
Beautiful
Thanks for the great info. I'm just doing my roof sheathing now and wondering with a metal roof like this should the sheathing overhang the subfacia? Should it overhand the actual facia?
I’ve found it’s best to run your sheathing over the finish facia. That way you don’t ever have a break/gap in the roof where water can leak if the roof leg of your drip edge is short. And it provides a continuous plane to attach the drip edge.
Hi mate, great video!
Glad you enjoyed
I've roofed since 74, I am a wee bit older now and do Inspections/repairs,
My metal roof experience is limited but I will say this,
What an absolutely wonderful presentation you've done here.
Best of luck to you,
You are a true role model for the newer generation of people who will be involved in the trade,☮️✔️
Lee Richards thanks! That’s really nice to hear. Glad you enjoyed the video. Cheers!
Well made video!
Cory Shook thank you sir!
Excellent 👍👍👍
Awesome Video Logan! Anyway you could do more in-depth video on the layout. Thx!
Steve Picchi thanks! I will do a better video on the next standing seam roof focusing more on layout. Cheers
HeirloomBuilders Thank-you Logan!
Awesome information very helpful and
explained in a very knowledgeable manner thanks for your time and effort in this video .👍FINS UP 👍
Eric Polston glad this was helpful for you! Please subscribe to the channel for more like this. Welcome aboard!
I'm in the process of figuring out what I will do about my roof, got 3 tab shingles now what do you think about perlins over the shingles and putting panels on that ?
Eric Polston I would first check with your building inspections department to see if they have any special requirements for your area. Then check to make sure the roof sheathing underneath the shingles is structurally sound (walk around feeling for soft spots) and Check the underside for signs of leaks, water damage, rot before you proceed. If all checks out, you’ll save some time and money by leaving the shingles in place. Definitely use purlins and/or underlayment to keep the hot abrasive shingles from damaging the metal roofing.
Thanks for the info 👍 I'm going to try 🙂.
I'm a Carpenter for Walt Disney World for over 30 years. I think I know enough to make my self dangerous 👍😷👋
I work 3rd shift I'm just about to go to bed 🛌 😴 thanks again
Thank you for your video! It's amazing how many keyboard "experts" there are on these build videos? Those morons are pathetic. Keep up the great work.
C S thank you! We are just trying to spread some good info, make it seem fun, and inspire people to do a good job. Glad you enjoyed it! Cheers
Nice!
Clean job.
David Wangbichler thanks! we had a good time on this one
I prefer using HER products
What's the point of putting tacky tape on the Z metal/Bar if every single screw that hold the panel from sliding is low and exposed
Awesome. What brand of snap together standing rib do you recommend?
Go to google earth and look this up 38°46'52.12" N 77°23'14.97" W This is the old Fairfax train station house. We did this project around 1985, roof looks as good now as it did back then. THIS is true standing seam roofing, no Z-bar BS and nice wide sections of tin. While you guys are trying to figure out how to get down, we're already at the bar throwing back some cold ones lol.
Great job. Looks fantastic. My favorite roof. What manufacturer is this metal? Thanks!
Thank you for the kind words. The manufacturer is Rain Line Products in NC, but most metal manufacturers offer the same panel profile. What is your location?
Good,video guys
Nice work and great craftsmanship.
Question: do you special order the panels to length or do you make them on site? Thanks
We do order the panels cut to length. It saves us a lot of time not having to cut them before making the fold at the bottom. We just have to make sure to account for the drip edge overhang and the 1” fold when we measure for the pre-cut lengths
Nice Roofing
the best of the best
I am located in Colorado and selecting a raised seam metal roof. I know that there is a Hail proof-ish underlayment that helps to protect the metal roof panels from "Hail Dents". what is the name of the underlayment that is so solid that it can't be dented? thx
is that 24 GA panel? we work more with aluminum within 50 miles of ocean few differences we see. Panel clips should picture frame the eave, rake and ridges; for the snap-lok panel..12" o.c. for a 4' perimeter; then 24" o.c. for the interior field of roof. The fixed point? ridge zee flashing has 2 screws at 10min mark this video. Zee or Vent Zee should be screwed min 4 per panel (3" o.c.) set onto seam tape or sealant.
Jim S you got the best practices down! I like those ideas and will probably use them on the next one. This roof is definitely not perfect.
hi, what panel did you chose from union corrugating on this pabel? thank you
Beautiful work. I have a question though. The roof panels are installed with clips do it can expand and contract, with one additional screw through the middle of the panel along the ridge. In the video I noticed some of these were actually lower than the Z closure the ridge cap attached to. Did you install these fasteners with silicone, did you dab them later, or is the leaking so incredibly minor it isn't worth worrying about.
I ask because I've made this exact mistake. It was annoying. This is an old video, so if anyone out there has an answer feel free to pipe up. Since then I've essentially made sure to screw the panels within the first 1/2-1" of the panel top. I can always shift down.
Good eye. We have to reset those screws with silicone once we realized they were too low to be covered by the ridge cap.
In the beginning of the video you mentioned solar installation and water collection, did you did you do videos on them?, If so not finding them
Hi Jay, we installed solar thermal collectors on the roof of this house to heat the domestic hot water and radiant heat in the concrete floor. I have a bunch of film, but haven’t yet put together a video about it. Rainwater collection system is waiting for pandemic to end. In the meantime, here’s our best rainwater collection video, featuring a Bio Sand filter and 10,000 gallon cistern. th-cam.com/video/L56q_pCxULc/w-d-xo.html
This is great! I'm wondering how you flash to a wall? In my case, a brick wall.
Good question! Here's your answer: th-cam.com/video/ClYQwcm9rn8/w-d-xo.html. I hope this helps!
I'm an architectural sheet metal worker, I went school for 4 years here in California years ago and I've never seen a flashing video that well done.
I've done multiple military bases and prisons, and Airports. standing seam roofs, insulated wall panels, acu, acm, and I can tell you do professional work, Well done, you'd make a great teacher.
@@HeirloomBuilders how do you join a metal patio roof to shingles on the house?
@@lesaphillips4558 does the roof pitch change at that patio roof transition? If so, just tuck a pitch change flashing under the shingles and fasten to the top of the metal patio roof. If not, you may need a flat wide piece of flashing and tuck it high enough under the shingle roof to make a flat transition to metal
I enjoyed to watch your video today. I learned a nice cap end detail from you.
There is one thing that I didn't understand. Namely, how one panel is grabbing the next one. It doesn't looks like yours is a double locked standing seam, nor single locked, nor even snap locked (or is it?). I would call it an unlocked standing seam. Do you intend the solar panels to prevent the roof panels from flying in winds?
Now, you mentioned that you learned a lot from your mistakes, but there are mistakes in your roof that still expose lack of knowledge in several important areas, which you MUST to master in order to make reliable metal roofs. Only then you can make video called "How to ...". You are definitely not there yet.
First is the problem of the thermal expansion of the metal. Your roof have three (3) distinct mistakes in this area, which require three different solutions.
Second, there is the principle of capillary break. Understanding this principle will allow you to get much more reliable ridges and drip edges. Right now you overcome your deficiency with caulk. Caulk may last anywhere from several hours to a couple of seasons, trust me. Then what?
Third, It seems that you use galvanized steel. Today steel is galvanized in very precisely controlled manner, which allows the producers to make zinc coating with almost no zinc at all, and that is precisely what they do. Don't think even for a moment that it will last anywhere as your grandfather's galvanized steel did.
Fourth mistake is the order of the layers in your roof. SMACNA and all the "experts" that swear by it, won't tell you, that there SHOULD BE NO waterproofing between the back side of your metal panels and the bottom of the ventilation space, hence there shouldn't be any variety of the "Almighty Illustrious Amazing Tar Shield Against Eternity" of any kind whatsoever.
Also no insulation.
The tar membrane, in your case, traps water in the wood layer (yes, water also travels upward from inside the dwelling) and causes it to rot. In your case it is OSB - not wood - and you know how OSB loves wet/dry cycles.
SMACNA and their "experts" cash good money for the otherwise useless byproduct of petrol industry, claiming that the customer needs it, as an additional safety measure. Your metal has, supposedly, 30y lifespan , while the tar, in practice, closer to 7y.
As to the claim of overlapping safety measures, (metal with additional tar layer) the reality is that if you combine two measures of 50% reliability each, you end with combined 25% reliability, not 75%. It is the failure rates that combine in reality, not the reliability rates! Just look around.
Last, your fastening system looks flimsy. Considering the maximum wind loads expected during the voiced 30y period, combined with the factors that accelerate the roof's ageing, it stands an excellent chance of being blown off.
As there are metal roofs that lasted for 6 centuries (very few tho), you stand a chance to make such one as well. But first you must upgrade your current knowledge levels. Good luck.
And thanks for the cap end!
Great video! I am interested in harvesting the rainwater. Did you select the unpainted galvalume for that purpose?
Thanks! Yes, a metal roof is best for collecting rainwater
Better installation than 99.99999% of roofers in the US. Props! I love the cradle idea for working at the ridge. I do my rake details exactly the same regardless of panel type. Next challenge to take on should be flat locking your ridge cap sections together without the caulk/rivets and hand seaming your plumbing stacks to the panel. Caulked seams will fail way before the roof. By the way Union Corrugating now has a perforated C channel that mounts to the Z before the ridge cap goes on. Have you used this detail?
Excellent feedback. Thank you. I have heard about the C channel, but never used it. I'd love to figure out what you mean by hand seaming the plumbing stacks to the panel. Cheers!
@@HeirloomBuilders Hand seaming process: th-cam.com/video/w7lAFq7j3qg/w-d-xo.html
@@HeirloomBuilders The perf C works great on lower pitches and it's easier to get the ridge cap perfectly strait especially on hips.
@@robertunversaw Nice!
That was an awesome link! I love that craftsmanship.
I like the look of the metal you are working with. Is there a particular thickness or weight that is better? Also, if I wanted the roof you are working with in this video what would I ask for?
That roof is probably 24 gage aluminum. And that's very thin. I'm a metal roofer from socal and thickness really depends where you live. Personally I'd go 20 gage. And that's a standing seem metal roof but there's many different types of metal roofing styles. Really just depends on the costumer and they come in many different colors. Thatsl color in the video is the worst in my opinion. You can do a copper metal roof and a stainless metal roof but will cost a lot more.
Max Well this is a 24 gauge galvalume color standing seam metal roof. Ribs are 1-1/2” high. Some Manufacturers call it snap lok, but this is the type with the hold down clips that allows for seasonal movement and cleaner installation than the type of standing seam that has a continuous screw flange.
I like the wood carriage thing you built to provide a working surface for the ridge. Metal roofs are super slippery even in dry weather and especially with any kind of moisture in the air. Most people don't realize that placing panels is relatively easy but installing the trim accessories correctly is time consuming and difficult if you have a shitty surface to work from. Is that home made wood carriage hard to move down the ridge as you install Z and Cap? Also nice try on the harness at that point because where the hell you gonna anchor to when you are closing off the roof.
Exactly! We anchor directly on the roof carriage we built. It’s easy to walk down the ridge as we install the cap, but we need scaffolding on the gable end to get it disassembled and moved down off the roof safely
@@HeirloomBuilders That is genius! Being mainly a roofer and not a carpenter It had never occurred to me that this was possible. Thanks!
Your ice and water should have been high temp, I like your 3-4-5 triangle for squaring up I do the same.
ryan prewitt thanks! you are right about the grace high temp. We didn’t have it in the budget unfortunately.
@@HeirloomBuilders ... but at least it wasn't a dark color... Galvanized reflects the heat better...
Nicely done i only have one comment about the ice and water shield or peel and stick underlayment you used is not a high temp underlayment. If your going to install a metal roof directly over a peel and stick underlayment it needs to be a high temp style underlayment so in the hot days of summer the metal will not melt into the underlayment and cause problems with expansion and contraction of the system like its designed to do but besides that great video keep them coming.
We've used the High Temp Ice and Water, with darker colored metal. That stuff is EXPENSIVE. I didn't realize the Grace Select might stick to the metal and cause issues with expansion/contraction. Good advice. Thanks for the tip!
Thanks I'm doin my first standing seam roof but I'm knot sure how much do I can charge or sq of this I believe $250 the sq ?? Do I'm correct just labor ?
Depends on the roof, and how much flashing, hips, and valleys, but I would start with at least $300/square for installation. Typically $400-500/square for most roofs
Which standing seam roofing machine is best for 3 -14'x70" mobiles and 160' x 30' mini storages... need to install new roofing and then sell (e) roofing bussiness..
Probably the snap lock system. It is a “floating” system that can allow for expansion and contraction over long spans. The hold down clips are separate from the panels. Beware of the panel type that has an integral screw flange
cool man. here, look at 7:23 . the bottom of the panel is a little too tight up against the drip edge. thermal expansion and contraction. the next 0°F day is going to be pulling it up.
rule of thumb, for every 10ft of steel sheet metal, it shrinks and grows 1/16th of an inch per 100°F. Aluminum sheet metal, twice that.
cl8ff nice tips! Thank you for sharing that rule of thumb. We were putting 1/8” gap. Hopefully it’s just that angle that makes it look tight at 7:23!
How would attach a gutter helmet on since it normally slides under the asphalt shingle?
Not entirely sure but I think they get on the drip edge specifically
Next time you do cap take a stick of t drip with a inch t part then clamp each sides high rib they just hold the drip in place then all you have to do is place zs on top side give you a perfect 1/4play to hook cap
That’s brilliant! Thanks for the tip 💪💪
Great vid! Quick question. I have a older metal building and the current metal roof is sitting directly on the metal purlins. Do you recommend I install plywood sheathing? Or keep it how it is and install directly on the purlins? Thanks again from Michigan!
D S how far apart are the metal purlins spaced?
HeirloomBuilders 48”
D S most standing seam panels need 24” spacing for purlins/support. I would add a purlin in between each of those at 48” oc. Add plywood if you want, but with 24” oc purlins, you won’t need the plywood.
✝️🇺🇸👍 thanks for the video and god bless
you're welcome! glad you enjoyed it
I had a standing seam 26 gauge metal roof installed on my beach house a few years back and within a month or so, bats moved in to the attic through holes they made in the ridge cap and hornets came in through the ridges at the eaves. How do you stop that problem?
Yikes! You may need them (or another contractor) to replace the ridge cap and zee bar flashing with material similar to what we used in this video. It will keep hornets and bats out.
Looks nice but why your gable starter only 1 ft cut off piece? Were you runing out of materials?
We made them 10" wide, which is the widest piece that we could start with and end up with the same width panel on the other side. If we had started with a full piece, we could only end up with a 4" wide panel on the opposite end. We go for symmetry!
I culd see some screws out z bar but it happens
@5:59 where did y’all find that hand roller? And what’s it called? I’ve wanted to fold the edge of our metal roofs, but haven’t seen the tool to do it yet.
Michael Farmer www.amazon.com/Wuko-2202-Uni-Bender/dp/B00DC8IF6S
You can make all kinds of flashing with this one since you can adjust the depth of the bend.
Also, friendly tip. The manufacturers usually recommend putting fasteners 4” O.C. to get proper mastic compression/expansion to ensure it’s sealed good. Good looking roof, and about the ridge, haters gonna hate. Just gotta keep learning and doing better. 👍💪
Michael Farmer that’s right. Thanks for the tip
Check out Stortz Tools online.
is that an 16 0r 18 panel?
The 1” gap at the freeze blkg wouldn’t work here in California, because the roof ply nailing needs to edge nail into them
pile maker check out Cora vent. I’ll make a video about it sometime.
Do you guy's do this professionally? I'm looking into replacing my roof with the same thing, #?
Unfortunately we are not roofers by trade. We just do it on jobs where the scheduling is tight.
Have you installed country manor shakes?
No, but I hope to someday. They look beautiful. Looks like it may be difficult to keep from damaging them as you work upwards.
What is the tool you use for forming/folding the long edge?
We use the Wuko uni-bender. Malco makes one that’s a little cheaper. www.amazon.com/Wuko-2202-Uni-Bender/dp/B00DC8IF6S/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=wuko+tools&pd_rd_r=c1b8ef06-92c1-45a1-9f5b-1ffab2e7e964&pd_rd_w=rImLf&pd_rd_wg=5Z67C&pf_rd_p=1dc12552-2063-408e-aebd-305a20fe3970&pf_rd_r=ZQS6X8K0BPZCNSY2X91M&qid=1600360625&quoq=wuko+unibender&sr=8-3
How do you do the valleys? From laying out the valley metal to getting the correct angle
Slevin Kelevra snap chalk lines parallel to valley on both sides and install the valley flashing first (over top of grace ice and water shield bituminous sticky underlayment). Depending on the size of valley flashing, come up 3-5” from the center “v” on both sides snapping a parallel line top to bottom. Install offset cleat with butyl tape underneath and the leading edge of cleat on chalk line. Use a rafter square or framing square to transfer the measurements from the closest panel to valley to the angle going up the valley. For instance the first valley panel might have 3 inches of flat on the bottom and then miter up the valley 13 inches squared up from the bottom hem to where it attaches to the cleat going up the valley. just connect those two points and add length for your fold to fold over the valley cleat. I don’t try to calculate the angle, I just pull measurements and transfer them to the panel. Once you dial in the miter, you can use the cutoff to scribe the angle on the next panels. At that point you only have to measure the short point of the last panel to get the long point of the next panel. I hope that helps. It deserves a video explanation.
HeirloomBuilders thank you for your time. It’s greatly appreciated! I understand what you are saying. Basically the same way the old man/co- worker does. He just doesn’t have finesse and or consistency or something. I just fee like things could be much straighter and more professional looking. With the snap lock metal roofs. Do you bend your valley panel like you would locking it into the drip edge? Or just keep it flat and single layered?
Slevin Kelevra you’re welcome. DEFINITELY fold the bottom of your valley panel to hook the cleat on your valley flashing. Otherwise you will get water up in there during really heavy rains