Great video. Very helpful. After doing my first track day in my f80m3, and seeing a lot of front tire shoulder wear, I’m researching camber plates. I think these would fit the bill as I only plan on doing 5-6 track days during the summer, and the rest of my miles are daily driven.
Would it be possible to publish your microphone recordings comparing the OEM and Millway plates in regard of NVH increase? I would love to hear the differences before making a purchase.
Hi FaRKle0079, thank you very much for this video. I have just received my kit and here is the update on the screws and washers. It seems that stud bolts are now supplied with collar nuts. The collar nuts have an outer diameter of approx. 17mm. So I think: Problem solved!
Great video Farkle. I have a set of these on my car and really love them. But now I am curious about replacing the polyurethane bushings. Would these be hard to change out with typical hand tools? Or would I need a press? Thanks
The PU washers are very easy to change out and just require separating the upper/lower halves of the camber slider mechanism. Simple hand tools is all that's required.
I just had these installed on my m140i and am experiencing some “chattering” at low speeds. In your previous comments I noticed you mentioned an increase in road noise; just wondering about the chattering noises at low speeds. Thanks!
@@andrxito it turned out to be the OEM adaptive dampers. Once I switched to Bilstein B8 passive dampers the sound was gone and there really isn’t any discernible NVH from the camber plates.
@@RGonzalez83 oh that sucks, I'm precisely on the OEM adaptives but they never made noise before. Guess I will keep the plates until I have enough for a set of coilovers
Hi. Some parts of my millway street version look different from yours and the torques mentioned in the manual are also different. I don't know whether they had some change for this product.
These are the street version plates. Millway's website says you can get about -2deg extra camber with them. Stock camber for F2x/F3x is around -0.5 deg. The monoball version can adjust further to add about -2.5deg extra camber.
@@FaRKle0079 thanks. I was hoping they would be capable of -3. I recently got the vorshlag plates and haven’t installed them yet, but there are a few things I don’t like about them (no markings on adjusters). And absolutely no instructions included. Your video will be invaluable if I decide to install them. Thanks again.
The NVH is worse than stock, but not too significant. There aren't any salient clunks, taps, or pops, but the background road noise level is a bit higher.
Hello, what improvements do you get by increasing the front camber? For a mainly city and highway use (no track), would you recommend it anyway? I own F20 120i. Thank you very much
More front camber will give the front end more "bite" when cornering and reduce understeer. You'll find that you're able to hold turns better without having to reduce speed. If you like tossing the car into corners during your daily driving or spirited weekend runs, you'll still see the advantage of camber plates without having to go to the track.
@@federoco1 The front strut brace doesn't really do anything for grip like the camber plates do, but makes the front of the car more solid. The result of that is the car feels more composed and communicates with you via the steering wheel better during cornering.
@@FaRKle0079 In the end I got them! I noticed a generally more oversteering behavior of the car. When cornering, if you open the throttle at the wrong moment, it tends to start more easily and you can clearly perceive the grip limit at the rear. In short, she is more nervous if you drive badly, you have to be clean. It is more sensitive. On fast corners, I do less steering wheel corrections to counteract the widening of the trajectory. Once set, it holds it. On the straight, at times I had the sensation of feeling less planted and more sensitive to the roughness of the road surface, even for example the center lines on the motorway. On bumpy roads they produce a slight "clonk-clonk" noise.
@@federoco1 You can tweak the handling characteristics with alignment changes. If you have too much grip in the front in corners you can try reducing front camber to even out the front/rear grip or if you're not running much rear camber, increase it in the rear to keep it sticking longer.
In my opinion these are better since you don't have to worry about them wearing out and the NVH is less. If you're building a full race build and planning on swapping bearings regularly, then the monoball version could be better. The monoball version can go to more negative camber than the street one, so if you need something like -3 to -3.5deg, then the street version won't work for you.
@@FaRKle0079 uniballs are noise, i always hear uniball squeezy on bumpy road... I have -2.5 deg front and rear 1,75 deg.... I think street version be better for me... thanks for help
thanks for this "review" every question i had answered by 1 vid :)
Great video. Very helpful. After doing my first track day in my f80m3, and seeing a lot of front tire shoulder wear, I’m researching camber plates. I think these would fit the bill as I only plan on doing 5-6 track days during the summer, and the rest of my miles are daily driven.
Just ordered a set for my m240! Thanks for the notes about the bolts.
Congrats! Enjoy them!
Would it be possible to publish your microphone recordings comparing the OEM and Millway plates in regard of NVH increase? I would love to hear the differences before making a purchase.
Great vid. I love mine.
Thank you.
Hi FaRKle0079, thank you very much for this video. I have just received my kit and here is the update on the screws and washers.
It seems that stud bolts are now supplied with collar nuts. The collar nuts have an outer diameter of approx. 17mm. So I think: Problem solved!
Awesome! Thanks for the report on their newer revision! I have yet to get my hands on one of those plates.
Great video Farkle. I have a set of these on my car and really love them. But now I am curious about replacing the polyurethane bushings. Would these be hard to change out with typical hand tools? Or would I need a press? Thanks
The PU washers are very easy to change out and just require separating the upper/lower halves of the camber slider mechanism. Simple hand tools is all that's required.
how long do these polyurethane last? will they go bad eventually? if they go bad what does it feel or sound like?
I'm at 37k miles with mine now. Still holding up well. When PU goes bad it'll probably start to crack/crumble and would be more loose.
I just had these installed on my m140i and am experiencing some “chattering” at low speeds. In your previous comments I noticed you mentioned an increase in road noise; just wondering about the chattering noises at low speeds. Thanks!
Did you get this resolved? I feel this on my car as well. at less than 30kmh it sounds like bouncing metal, as if something was not fixed properly
@@andrxito it turned out to be the OEM adaptive dampers. Once I switched to Bilstein B8 passive dampers the sound was gone and there really isn’t any discernible NVH from the camber plates.
@@RGonzalez83 oh that sucks, I'm precisely on the OEM adaptives but they never made noise before. Guess I will keep the plates until I have enough for a set of coilovers
Hi. Some parts of my millway street version look different from yours and the torques mentioned in the manual are also different. I don't know whether they had some change for this product.
They may have changed fastener grades, which would alter those torque specs. What else is different on yours?
@@FaRKle0079 Yes the torque specs are lower. The camber adjustment bolts are different. The hex holes are bigger and they are not with flat end.
Hi do you still run these? If so how are they holding up?
Can you get PU replacements if it wears out?
Yup, still happily running them in the wagon. I've heard that others were able to order just the PU portion when they reached out to Millway.
How are these plates going on your car? I'm going to fit mine this week. Thanks for the tutorial
Still going very well. Been through a couple of alignments with them (due to other setup changes) and have had no issues.
what is the max camber with stock edc suspension? great vid!
With the street plates you can get about -2.2 to -2.5deg.
millway website states that you can get -3.2 deg max camber (are you sure that -2.5 deg was max on your setup?, are you at stock ride height?)
These are the street version plates. Millway's website says you can get about -2deg extra camber with them. Stock camber for F2x/F3x is around -0.5 deg.
The monoball version can adjust further to add about -2.5deg extra camber.
What was the maximum camber you were able to run with these plates? Is -3 possible?
On my F31 I'm running -2.7deg up front. It's close to the end of travel. I believe the F80 one has a bit more travel though.
@@FaRKle0079 thanks. I was hoping they would be capable of -3. I recently got the vorshlag plates and haven’t installed them yet, but there are a few things I don’t like about them (no markings on adjusters). And absolutely no instructions included. Your video will be invaluable if I decide to install them. Thanks again.
I am doing -3 and you do like -4 if you want. i went as high as -3.4
Hi buddy I have a f80 I don’t track it but I’m on the market for camber plates which one is better vorshlag or millway??
I think the Millway Street plates will be the best options if you don't need very high amounts of camber and aren't tracking.
Hi, do you know if these are the same thickness as the factory camber plates, i see some are slight thicker
Yes it's the same thickness as the OE top mount.
My ground control camber plates driving me crazy with noise. Do u recommend these
Yup! I'm very pleased with these. Noise increase is pretty small and not very salient.
How is the NVH compared to stock in a scale of 1 to 10? Great content btw 👍 keep doing vids
The NVH is worse than stock, but not too significant. There aren't any salient clunks, taps, or pops, but the background road noise level is a bit higher.
So if mine are installed and I hear rattle on bumps, that means that's a bad install?
Hello, what improvements do you get by increasing the front camber? For a mainly city and highway use (no track), would you recommend it anyway? I own F20 120i. Thank you very much
More front camber will give the front end more "bite" when cornering and reduce understeer. You'll find that you're able to hold turns better without having to reduce speed. If you like tossing the car into corners during your daily driving or spirited weekend runs, you'll still see the advantage of camber plates without having to go to the track.
@@FaRKle0079 What about the combo camber plates + front strut brace?
@@federoco1 The front strut brace doesn't really do anything for grip like the camber plates do, but makes the front of the car more solid. The result of that is the car feels more composed and communicates with you via the steering wheel better during cornering.
@@FaRKle0079 In the end I got them! I noticed a generally more oversteering behavior of the car. When cornering, if you open the throttle at the wrong moment, it tends to start more easily and you can clearly perceive the grip limit at the rear.
In short, she is more nervous if you drive badly, you have to be clean. It is more sensitive. On fast corners, I do less steering wheel corrections to counteract the widening of the trajectory. Once set, it holds it. On the straight, at times I had the sensation of feeling less planted and more sensitive to the roughness of the road surface, even for example the center lines on the motorway. On bumpy roads they produce a slight "clonk-clonk" noise.
@@federoco1 You can tweak the handling characteristics with alignment changes. If you have too much grip in the front in corners you can try reducing front camber to even out the front/rear grip or if you're not running much rear camber, increase it in the rear to keep it sticking longer.
its better than unniball solution? i order one street version to M2C....
In my opinion these are better since you don't have to worry about them wearing out and the NVH is less.
If you're building a full race build and planning on swapping bearings regularly, then the monoball version could be better. The monoball version can go to more negative camber than the street one, so if you need something like -3 to -3.5deg, then the street version won't work for you.
@@FaRKle0079 uniballs are noise, i always hear uniball squeezy on bumpy road...
I have -2.5 deg front and rear 1,75 deg....
I think street version be better for me...
thanks for help
@@FaRKle0079 did you lubricate uniball?
@@carisfun Nope. You shouldn't have to, and the instructions don't mention doing it either.
@@FaRKle0079 thanks. how much mm you have on plate for -2,5 camber?