I really like that you brought up the "money saving" myth. I just got done explaining this to a family member who is considering starting reloading. In rifle, pistol, or shotgun, currently, you would be very hard pressed to beat the price of the "cheap stuff". Maybe if you get your hulls/brass free and you have a free lead hole and cast, you might technically be able to make it cheaper based on price per shot, but not by much. The cost of equipment and the time and effort invested, you'd have to shoot a butt load of the "cheap stuff" to even get close to technically "saving money". I told my family member, that the real "money maker" in reloading is custom stuff, obsolete or obscure ammo, high quality high precision stuff, and stuff that isn't sold in stores or is ultra rare. Ex: a different family member wants ultra low recoil but very effective HD buckshot, so currently I'm messing with 6 pellet 0.380" 0000 doing 1,000 to 1,050. At 100 yrds(not the intended range) per my ballistic app, each pellet still has 100 ft-lbs. Cost per shot is about $0.60 roughly. The closest thing I found was an 8 pellet 0000 buckshot load quoted at 1,300 fps, just a gas seal, uncoated pellets, and no buffer. I found it a few months ago sold in packs of 3 for $9.99 +S&H and tax. So that's roughly $4 a shot, delivered and it's not low recoil and not custom made for his gun. So maybe they pattern ok, maybe not. If you're gonna get into reloading, it also has to be something you WANT to do. If you're making decent ammo(which if you're gonna put the time and effort in already, might as well not half-ass it) it takes actual effort, time and problem solving. I encourage people to do it, but if you're not into "fiddling with stuff" it might not be for you.
I just started reloading here in the UK after a 20 year break. This video was a great refresher for me many thanks for your videos they to me are the go to for shotgun reloading.
@@ClarkesonTheMarksman No unfortunately my old favourites Red dot Green dot very hard to find but managed to get some from a reloader who has given up. In very short supply over hear .
@@tonythorne4623 I'm in the UK also. I spoke to one of the chaps at clay and game mid week, this week and he mentioned that Alliant have military contracts which take priority over civilian, guess they supply some demand over in Ukraine. C and G are not expecting any til next year. Hodgdons seem to be semi avaliable just waiting for Dauntsey guns to restock there hodgdons range of powders being longshot, Clay's or titewad. Though they do have hs-6 and H110 in stock if you load heavy or .410. Based in Wlitshire and they are cheap compared
Great video Tyler! I'd love to see you continue this series! Possibly going into some of the problem solving involved in shotgun reloading. Ex: crimp adjustments, shot column adjustments, pressure signs to look for, how to analyze fired wads, ect... Keep up the good work guys!
Tyler, you are buildingnyour channel into a force to be reckoned with. I forsee you will become if not already a pillar of the foundation of internet shotshell reloading go to channels. Well done my friend👍 0:58. Wade Rush , Johnnys reloading bench, Gunblue 490, Shotgun Scientists and others in my list I cant remember that are you tubes best channels for reloading. ❤
I’m just getting back into shot shell reloading after being away from it for over 30 years. Life got in the way. This was a great refresher for me as a re-beginner. The basics are the same but a few things have changed. Some components have disappeared and there is new stuff to consider. I’m looking forward to enjoying the hobby again and am glad I found your channel.
Thanks for the excellent video Tyler. I agree with everything you said and I’m glad you put this video out to help the new guys understand the difference in tapered hulls versus straight-walled hulls. That confused me greatly in the beginning. I’ve found i can cut the cost on shells by reloading my own versus buying new ONLY if I’m able to acquire once shot hulls and order my primers/ powders during ‘specials’ where the company I’m buying from waves the hazmat charge. Only then can I come out ahead enough to make a difference. The REAL benefit of reloading is to make loads completely customized to exactly what you want. Plus, let’s face it, it’s fun. Thanks again for all of your hard work.
Great Show man! Even though I've been reloading for years I still love watching you guys. Thanks Tyler. I send anybody I know who shows any interest in shotshell reloading right to you first. Many thanks for all of your work.
Glad to see you talk about brass height! Those myths are still pretty prevalent. The only benefit I've seen in brass height is if your gun has extraction issues. If so, lower brass height = more better. It reduces the resistance to extraction after firing. To anyone having that issue, you still need to chase down the root cause, but lower brass can be a bandaid solution possibly. Anyway, keep up the good work!
Also the difference between low & high brass was back in the day a hunter would carry a bag with mix shells. If he wanted to shoot small game he would reach in without looking and felt for the low brass. If he need a stronger shell for larger game they again he would reach and feel for that larger brass.
Great info ,thankyou. I did not know that rio made Fed target hulls. That opens up a lot of data from my bpi load data book that I had ignored as I thought I had no rio hulls
@@theshotgunscientists picking on you a bit, I how you all start your own exsautic high powered ammo company 🦅🇺🇸 & I'm thinking a boy purchasing the newer BPS Browing 10 gauge. The barrel is better than the 10 gauge gold & there's not way I trusted shooting slugs in ether of my semi auto Browing 10 gauge nor especially not put of my Browing semi auto 12 gauge. The barrels are to thin
That's probably the best beginner video I have ever seen (and I have watched a lot) what are your thoughts on using brass shells? It would seem to me that they would last forever but I'm guessing there is some issues else everyone reloader would use them. Thanks for all you do.
Brand new to reloading and found this video very insightful thank you. Feel more restricted living in the UK though. Did have one provably silly question, can you reuse wads?
I do wish you would have included a segment explaining wads for straight walled hulls that have a tapered inner shotcup wall design. Seems like more and more of them are showing up out there on the market.
Wads like that are generally only found in non toxic wads which aren’t meant for target loads but when I do a video like this for loading steel shot I will definitely cover that
If you can afford it, get some reloading manuals. On top of videos, I have learned a lot from them also. The Ballistic Products 10thedition advantages manual, buckshot 4th edition manual, and Lyman 5th edition taken together cover alot of things you will want to understand. I have found that 1 manual,alone did not answer all my questions. Yes I've spent a small fortune but I can always go back to the info when I forget something. It's worth it. But Videos are great too if someone can cover stuff😁👍 OH, haha, HI Gary. I didn't realize that was you I didn't see your name. There's probably nothing I can say that you don't know already! HAHA
Super quick question, I am about to get into reloading, particularly because duck/upland bird ammo has gotten outrageous. Anyways, what scale do you like the most for hand loading?
Off video topic a lil, but has anyone cloned the Federal Flight Control wad? With as little as I get to shoot per year, I keep coming to the conclusion that it's just not economical for me, but still want to get into it just for the experience & ability to reload what I buy & shoot. (Adding to this as I watch) I like some of the recipes I see using HS-6, but still picking up info & uses of it. Ton of information you're providing to the new to reloading community or those of us toying with the idea anyway. Thank ya.
I have an 1897 Winchester and the open crimp on plastic hulls tends to hang up in the ejection port so l’m going to try loading brass hulls. Do you have any experience with those? From the videos I’ve seen it’s a very simple process and requires no special tools. I plan on using 60 gr. of Pyrodex RS with 1 1/8 gr. of 71/2 shot.
@@theshotgunscientists , I didn’t know they even had 2.5” shells. Anyway I have the 2.5” brass hulls from Magtech, and Pyrodex RS is readily available.
Wonderfull video's and information you have!! I just started shotshell reloading. I'm living in Holland and there is no lead permitted, only steel shot. It's hard to find loading data for steel. i'm searching for targets (clays) loads and goose (hunting) loads. Do you have any suggestions?
Have you ever reloaded the federal 12 g heavy field 7.5 shot before ? I’m confused on what hull type they use for it . Seems like it’s a Rio but I’m having a hard time finding load data on this specific hull type . It has a 3.5 DRAMS equivalent
Dram EQ just refers to what velocity it’s loaded too in relation to black powder. It’s just a top gun plastic base wad hull which are rios. Some have high brass some don’t.
I have gun club hulls. I can get titewad powder and federal 209a primers. Wanting to load 1 ounce #8’s. In your opinion, would these components preform well? Specifically the federal 209a primers in the gun club hulls.
I really like that you brought up the "money saving" myth. I just got done explaining this to a family member who is considering starting reloading. In rifle, pistol, or shotgun, currently, you would be very hard pressed to beat the price of the "cheap stuff". Maybe if you get your hulls/brass free and you have a free lead hole and cast, you might technically be able to make it cheaper based on price per shot, but not by much. The cost of equipment and the time and effort invested, you'd have to shoot a butt load of the "cheap stuff" to even get close to technically "saving money". I told my family member, that the real "money maker" in reloading is custom stuff, obsolete or obscure ammo, high quality high precision stuff, and stuff that isn't sold in stores or is ultra rare. Ex: a different family member wants ultra low recoil but very effective HD buckshot, so currently I'm messing with 6 pellet 0.380" 0000 doing 1,000 to 1,050. At 100 yrds(not the intended range) per my ballistic app, each pellet still has 100 ft-lbs. Cost per shot is about $0.60 roughly. The closest thing I found was an 8 pellet 0000 buckshot load quoted at 1,300 fps, just a gas seal, uncoated pellets, and no buffer. I found it a few months ago sold in packs of 3 for $9.99 +S&H and tax. So that's roughly $4 a shot, delivered and it's not low recoil and not custom made for his gun. So maybe they pattern ok, maybe not. If you're gonna get into reloading, it also has to be something you WANT to do. If you're making decent ammo(which if you're gonna put the time and effort in already, might as well not half-ass it) it takes actual effort, time and problem solving. I encourage people to do it, but if you're not into "fiddling with stuff" it might not be for you.
Very well said man
After YT looking into this, just for shotgun so far, I'm figuring that out. Haha
I just started reloading here in the UK after a 20 year break. This video was a great refresher for me many thanks for your videos they to me are the go to for shotgun reloading.
That’s awesome man thank you
Nice man. Been able to get your hands on any powder recently?
@@ClarkesonTheMarksman No unfortunately my old favourites Red dot Green dot very hard to find but managed to get some from a reloader who has given up. In very short supply over hear .
@@tonythorne4623 I'm in the UK also. I spoke to one of the chaps at clay and game mid week, this week and he mentioned that Alliant have military contracts which take priority over civilian, guess they supply some demand over in Ukraine. C and G are not expecting any til next year. Hodgdons seem to be semi avaliable just waiting for Dauntsey guns to restock there hodgdons range of powders being longshot, Clay's or titewad. Though they do have hs-6 and H110 in stock if you load heavy or .410. Based in Wlitshire and they are cheap compared
Great video Tyler! I'd love to see you continue this series! Possibly going into some of the problem solving involved in shotgun reloading. Ex: crimp adjustments, shot column adjustments, pressure signs to look for, how to analyze fired wads, ect...
Keep up the good work guys!
Excellent presentation Dude. Clear, concise and informative delivered in an easily digestible manner. Spot on
Thanks man I tried my best
Tyler, you are buildingnyour channel into a force to be reckoned with. I forsee you will become if not already a pillar of the foundation of internet shotshell reloading go to channels. Well done my friend👍 0:58. Wade Rush , Johnnys reloading bench, Gunblue 490, Shotgun Scientists and others in my list I cant remember that are you tubes best channels for reloading. ❤
Thanks man. We try our best.
I’m just getting back into shot shell reloading after being away from it for over 30 years. Life got in the way. This was a great refresher for me as a re-beginner. The basics are the same but a few things have changed. Some components have disappeared and there is new stuff to consider. I’m looking forward to enjoying the hobby again and am glad I found your channel.
Thanks man
Thanks for the excellent video Tyler. I agree with everything you said and I’m glad you put this video out to help the new guys understand the difference in tapered hulls versus straight-walled hulls. That confused me greatly in the beginning. I’ve found i can cut the cost on shells by reloading my own versus buying new ONLY if I’m able to acquire once shot hulls and order my primers/ powders during ‘specials’ where the company I’m buying from waves the hazmat charge. Only then can I come out ahead enough to make a difference. The REAL benefit of reloading is to make loads completely customized to exactly what you want. Plus, let’s face it, it’s fun. Thanks again for all of your hard work.
Loading buckshot and slugs is where it’s at right now. Or for any gauge besides 12 and 20.
thank you bud
Great Show man! Even though I've been reloading for years I still love watching you guys. Thanks Tyler. I send anybody I know who shows any interest in shotshell reloading right to you first.
Many thanks for all of your work.
Thank you man we appreciate that a lot
Thanks so much I was overwhelmed but not now
Thanks man. It’s actually all quite simple once you get the hang of it. I suggest reading the bpi advantages manual.
This was a really great and informative video. Very much appreciate you taking the time to make it!
All your videos are helpful. Thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
Glad to see you talk about brass height! Those myths are still pretty prevalent. The only benefit I've seen in brass height is if your gun has extraction issues. If so, lower brass height = more better. It reduces the resistance to extraction after firing. To anyone having that issue, you still need to chase down the root cause, but lower brass can be a bandaid solution possibly.
Anyway, keep up the good work!
That is 100% true
Also the difference between low & high brass was back in the day a hunter would carry a bag with mix shells. If he wanted to shoot small game he would reach in without looking and felt for the low brass. If he need a stronger shell for larger game they again he would reach and feel for that larger brass.
Very prevalent information still being swore by.
Just wanted to say you are very smart i learn a lot everytime i see your videos
Glad to help
Excellent video as always. Your videos are always so informative. Keep up the good work.
Will do man
Great info ,thankyou. I did not know that rio made Fed target hulls. That opens up a lot of data from my bpi load data book that I had ignored as I thought I had no rio hulls
The estate hulls are the same thing too
Thanks, great video, sharing your knowledge is much appreciated!
Excellent tutorial. Thanks!
Thanks man
Tyvm for the fast response. Been watching your channel for some time and glad to see that it has gone well. Ty. BUCK
Thanks man I appreciate it
Tons of great information brother. Much appreciated thank you 👍🏼🤠
Thanks for watching man
Cheddite. I just checked 4 pronounciation guides (including the company). It's pronounced like cheddar cheese. CHED- ite. Ps: thumbs up.
I love your videos lots of great information thanks.
Thanks man
Great job perfect examples
Thanks man
Good to see you back on here
🦅🇺🇸
Thanks man
@@theshotgunscientists picking on you a bit,
I how you all start your own exsautic high powered ammo company 🦅🇺🇸
& I'm thinking a boy purchasing the newer BPS Browing 10 gauge.
The barrel is better than the 10 gauge gold & there's not way I trusted shooting slugs in ether of my semi auto Browing 10 gauge nor especially not put of my Browing semi auto 12 gauge.
The barrels are to thin
@@troybond5426 any modern shotgun is capable of shooting slugs man
That's probably the best beginner video I have ever seen (and I have watched a lot) what are your thoughts on using brass shells? It would seem to me that they would last forever but I'm guessing there is some issues else everyone reloader would use them. Thanks for all you do.
They have the internal diameter of 18 gauge hulls and you need 18 gauge fiber wads to load them.
Gum Gully has the copper Cheddite/Rotweill hulls on clearance for $11.88/100.
@@projectturbocoupe4897 I have some actually but for 12 gauge. I didn’t know they had them in 20 too.
Brand new to reloading and found this video very insightful thank you. Feel more restricted living in the UK though. Did have one provably silly question, can you reuse wads?
If they’re in good shape yes but I wouldn’t recommend doing that. But technically yes.
I do wish you would have included a segment explaining wads for straight walled hulls that have a tapered inner shotcup wall design. Seems like more and more of them are showing up out there on the market.
Wads like that are generally only found in non toxic wads which aren’t meant for target loads but when I do a video like this for loading steel shot I will definitely cover that
If you can afford it, get some reloading manuals. On top of videos, I have learned a lot from them also. The Ballistic Products 10thedition advantages manual, buckshot 4th edition manual, and Lyman 5th edition taken together cover alot of things you will want to understand. I have found that 1 manual,alone did not answer all my questions. Yes I've spent a small fortune but I can always go back to the info when I forget something. It's worth it. But Videos are great too if someone can cover stuff😁👍 OH, haha, HI Gary. I didn't realize that was you I didn't see your name. There's probably nothing I can say that you don't know already! HAHA
This was excellent!
Thanks man
Super quick question, I am about to get into reloading, particularly because duck/upland bird ammo has gotten outrageous. Anyways, what scale do you like the most for hand loading?
Fuzion from Amazon the orange and black one
Great view thank you. How do you store your powder in your house in a safe manor?
I keep 1 jug of each on the dresser and the rest in a small dresser in our din.
Off video topic a lil, but has anyone cloned the Federal Flight Control wad?
With as little as I get to shoot per year, I keep coming to the conclusion that it's just not economical for me, but still want to get into it just for the experience & ability to reload what I buy & shoot.
(Adding to this as I watch)
I like some of the recipes I see using HS-6, but still picking up info & uses of it.
Ton of information you're providing to the new to reloading community or those of us toying with the idea anyway. Thank ya.
Tps wads can get very close in performance
Doing a great job bud!
Thanks man we try
Flair out the bottom of the wad a golf ball works great for me
I just use pliers
good vid!
Thanks man
I have an 1897 Winchester and the open crimp on plastic hulls tends to hang up in the ejection port so l’m going to try loading brass hulls. Do you have any experience with those? From the videos I’ve seen it’s a very simple process and requires no special tools. I plan on using 60 gr. of Pyrodex RS with 1 1/8 gr. of 71/2 shot.
You have a 2 9/16” chamber man. Barely over 2 3/4”. A lot of the 1897’s have short chambers. You need 2.5” shells not 2 3/4”.
@@theshotgunscientists , I didn’t know they even had 2.5” shells. Anyway I have the 2.5” brass hulls from Magtech, and Pyrodex RS is readily available.
Wonderfull video's and information you have!! I just started shotshell reloading. I'm living in Holland and there is no lead permitted, only steel shot. It's hard to find loading data for steel. i'm searching for targets (clays) loads and goose (hunting) loads. Do you have any suggestions?
Bpi status of steel manual
@@theshotgunscientists Thank you for replying. I tried to buy the PDF version, but it's not possible for International customers
Have you ever reloaded the federal 12 g heavy field 7.5 shot before ? I’m confused on what hull type they use for it . Seems like it’s a Rio but I’m having a hard time finding load data on this specific hull type . It has a 3.5 DRAMS equivalent
Dram EQ just refers to what velocity it’s loaded too in relation to black powder. It’s just a top gun plastic base wad hull which are rios. Some have high brass some don’t.
Thanks! I’m trying to find load data on top gun hulls with Hodgdon website but can’t in 2.75 do you happen to know what category that falls under ?
I’d just use rio data man
awesome video
Thanks man
Helo what ar the difrence betwin lead andsteel on a reloader, what are the changes you have to make to reloade steelshot in a progresive press
You have to have the right powder and wads but it’s generally the same process
I have gun club hulls. I can get titewad powder and federal 209a primers. Wanting to load 1 ounce #8’s. In your opinion, would these components preform well? Specifically the federal 209a primers in the gun club hulls.
Yeah they should work just fine
Hey great channel. Tn.here and have maybe a dumb question but can 3" shell's be loaded with 2 3/4 data?
Yes you just have to build up stack height. A nitro card under the wad works.
Was this copper plated lead or copper plated steel?
Lead. You can’t use steel with regular wads.
just getting into .410 reloading. What powder dipper would you recommend for that? They look like the Lee dippers I keep seeing but not sure
The dipper doesn’t really matter you just need a scale that weighs in grains and ounces. And proper components of course.
Hi is it safe to use a win 209 primer instead of a fed 209 a thanks😮
Yeah it’s a weaker primer should be fine just don’t use a max psi load
Where do you buy your hulls?
Ballistic products
Where do you buy new hulls?
Ballistic products
Did you see my message?
Where at