My Nvidia SHIELD Remote Stopped Working | Won't Pair | Not Fair
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 17 ต.ค. 2024
- This is my remote, it stopped working a few weeks back and replacing the batteries had no effect. It's not pairing with my Nvidia Sheild and is generally just annoying me.
Let's take it apart, prod around a bit, and see if we can fix it!
Hope you enjoy!
Steve 2
Stupid Remote Control
Stupid finger shadow !
just buy the new shield remote, i never liked the flat one... gets lost in the couch to easily.
Worth more investigation. You'll figure it out over time.
stupid nvidia remote.
Stupid reggae music. 🤣😁
Found a couple posts via reddit that it may simply be an issue where the remote or the shield itself needs resetting. They said:
Remove the back cover of the Nvidia Shield remote
Take out one of the batteries
Hold down the center “select” button and the home button at the same time
While still pressing both of those buttons, reinsert the battery that was taken out and then continue to hold the buttons
If this is done correctly, shortly after you reinsert the battery, you should hear a beeping sound
Now unplug, then replug the power from the back of the Nvidia Shield, this will turn the Shield on without the remote.
Try clicking some buttons to help re-pair the remote. Give the remote up to 30 seconds-1 minute to re-pair with the Nvidia Shield.
and another said:
In the end, key was in physically unplugging power on Shield unit.
So to be clear, I only had to do the following:
take out old batteries
put in new
return battery tray into remote
start pairing by pressing either home+back (circle+triangle) buttons
then while it's searching unplug and plug back in power on Shield
After Shield booted remote stopped blinking, and started working.
Thanks for posting this. I went ahead and followed the steps of disconnecting shield while the remote was on pair mode. Worked like a charm. Thanks again.
Thanks . It worked . Nothing else would work
This worked for me, unplugged the Shield TV and started pairing mode before plugging back in. The remote was still in pairing mode when it booted up, went to the remote section and had it forget the remote and it instantly started pairing and connected.
I have that same remote with the same problem. I was hoping you'd come up with a solution. Keep up the great content Steve.
Me too. Mine had exactly the same problem and I couldn't get it working. I ended up getting a new style remote that takes normal AA (or maybe AAA) batteries. It's much better.
I also have this issue. Could a recent firmware update killed it somehow? I bought a cheap Bluetooth remote off Amazon and it does the trick. The thing used to eat batteries anyway
Mine broke a year or so ago and I ended up buying a cheap remote with a usb dongle.
Swap the IR led for a regular colour led. You could also connect an oscilloscope to that output and check the pwm signal from the chip. I think a scope would benefit your channel
Yep, and for quite a bit of scope work you can buy a $40 scope that’s just a microphone digitizer and works great to 20khz
Also, you can get IR fluorescing cards so you can see the light without a camera or replacing the LED.
I use for example the picoscope for around 140€ for work. And I would say it's the money worth and they have a good software. But please don't buy a cheap china think, they are not good, the software is also important.
@@leoschuhmacher1219 the camera in your mobile phone will tell if an IR led is working
Misc comment here, but putting a romantic music in while watching a circuit board through a microscope is a thing only Steve can pull through. :D Awesome!
If you think your batteries have been shorted, take them out relatively quickly and measure the voltage. Watch for a minute, if you see the battery voltage climbing it’s a sign. Under normal use in circuits the rebound shouldn’t be very high, if it is it’s a sign the battery is developing excess internal resistance and is failing.
From one Steve to another, you gave it a good go. Your videos have inspired me to try my hand at repairs!
So those two spring tabs "mec502" look like they might need to be shorted together. They look like they go through the back plate and touch something inside the plastic housing.
Maybe it's like a tamper guard?
Two videos in one day? Nice!
Stupid TH-cam videos
Definitely SOLID
I would recommend giving the battery half a really good look. It could be something thats only shorted once placed in the case. Also, that shorted rail is incredibly suspicious. Maybe one of the button contacts is still shorted without the plastic bit on?
Some people were saying the IR can draw a lot of the juice. If you aim it at an IR camera do you see if it is always emitting? You could try taking the IR off and see if that stops the drain.
It's a bluetooth remote.
@@Remko1024 it isnt lol 4:29 you can see the little led on the top
The Nvidia shield is Bluetooth. The ir is for controlling your TV, or stereo with it as well.
It would show on the video, it didn't.
It's a Bluetooth remote
You can see the light off infra-red remotes, but you need to disable the filter in your camera. I use my computer’s webcam to check those…
Its Bluetooth not ir
2.8V is too low for most 3V lithium cell devices. Below 3.0V the battery is usually considered flat. Try powering it from a bench power supply at 3.2V and see if it's working, what's the current draw and where it gets hot.
Yep, remember a multimeter has no load. So, 2.8v is below the voltage the battery is supposed to supply and it isn't even doing anything yet!
you cheeked for voltage at the entry points but does the voltage actually goes into the board towards the chips? had one similar problem with a remote and a power rail was discontinued so there was no actual power on the board itself... the current is too low for something like a capacitor to blow up, I think. and a chip going bad is very unlikely
My plumber son just suggested "it's f****d innit Dad". No decorum. My money is on a short in the battery connections which only occurs when it's in the case - maybe even a stray strand? It's such a small leak that I'm not surprised it's invised on IR but battery rewire of run it from a power supply? good luck Steve - you have to do part 2
Everyone needs a Steve in their life
I remember hearing infrared signals through guitar pickups. Not sure if you've got those around, but it can confirm signals.
No experience of this remote but my experience with other similar devices was bad contact between the pcb 'spots' and the button caps. Peeling back the plastic overlay and cleaning the button capa and their equivalent pcb contact (ipa on cotton bud) fixed my issues.
Yeah but he peeled the whole thing off so there should be absolutely no contact at all. If the buttons where stuck down then that would have solved it.
You gave it a good go Steve. I have one of these and hope it doesn't develop the same problem 😕I definitely would have given up trying to get the thing open!
I was so excited to find this video since my remote is showing exact same symptoms and i opened it up and could find nothing wrong with it, it just wont do anything at all... Was sad to see you came to same conclusion. Sigh this crappy remote.
This background music made my wife come over to my office to see exactly what I was watching...
first time i see this secons channel? but why? .... i mean double the steve double the fun, as the saying goes
Steve, it was two 3V batteries. It was testing at 2.8 Volts for both. Shouldn't you have replaced the batteries first? It won't make a difference because you have a short but you should start with working batteries.
I’ve seen those blue SMD components on Wi-Fi and Bluetooth circuits and with antennas connected they were measuring as a ‘short’ also. I think this is part of the Bluetooth antenna circuit and isn’t the problem.
I don't have anything helpful to add on fixing this, but you should be able to control the shield using the TV remote over HDMI CEC - this is a protocol for communication over HDMI for set top boxes and sound bars. I have a different TV and a different shield, but it works really well for me and I never use the Nvidia remote. TV manufacturers often rebrand CEC to their own thing so you might have to Google
You could see if the IR is constantly on using a phone camera, and/or check if it's getting power at all with a voltmeter.
not all phones show the IR signal
@@BrunakoPAO most will if in night mode. This setting increases the sensitivity to IR light.
@@BrunakoPAO test both cameras on your phone. most modern back facing cameras have an IR filter now days, but the front facing "selfie" cameras usually do not. I use my iphone 12 selfie camera to test IR lasers on cisco fiber ports to make sure its live and I don't burn my eyes.
@@Eurallis2 ok 👍
Thanks for the info 😊
Great video, I’d like to know where did you get that stand for your microscope I have the same microscope as yours. Where did you get that new stand from
Batteries out and inject voltage at the shorted rail (1V, 2V) and look again with your thermal cam. Your powersupply has more power than these batteries. Maybe this can help you.
Did you try the remote reset? Press and hold both back and home buttons (triangle + circle) for 10 seconds, then release...it's what always brought my remote back to life.
Does the job with my Shield remote - mine is the original (2015?) which is rechargeable and doesn't have batteries.
Why not voltage injection into shorted line? You got tools - lab power supply and thermal cam. Shorted element would be pin-pointed in seconds.
Those Mission speakers look well nice! I've liked Mission stuff since the 80's.
9:20 One of those plastic membrane sheets for the remote looked a little damp. This happened with my roku remote... nothing would work. I cleaned off all the liquid and the remote worked like a charm. Maybe there was some liquids that got spilled in the remote or the adhesive from one of those plastic membrane sheets is making it short out. Try cleaning those sheets without removing any of the metal membranes and it may work. Only issue is the membranes will not have adhesive, unless you find an adhesive replacement that works. For what it counts, my roku remote has zero adhesive on its membrane sheets and they still work, even the volume controls work now.
Is it possible it's something with the battery cradle that's shorting to ground when it's installed? Check the data sheet on that chip corresponding to the leg that was shorting - could it be a battery leg?
Hope you can find the solution mate. 👍
What type of flux do you use? Thanks
Are the batteries in parallel or series? They're 3v each...
I thought flat button cells like 2032 are 3v each? So why no 6v feed..they never run in parallel bu5 in series so should not be 2.8v to the board but 6v on the positive..so inject 6v to the board..
Add voltage with PS and use the thermal cam on the other side like you did the button side while pressing button and as far as inferred draining just aim a camera with night vision at it see if its emitting all the time with voltage.
Pressure switches are a real PITA.... with the plastic removed and switch covers, you could check for voltage on the inner and outer rings....
Shouldn't the battery voltage at the board have been reading ~6V, if you have 2 x 3V batteries connected to it?
The batteries are in parallel
I had a Bose remote and the “ new but old” CR2032s were only a little low, just below 3v, and it would not work, so I am wondering if it was actually the short on the button that has drained the batteries and now the batteries are just too low to power the remote.
Never mind Steve you can’t win them all keep them coming 😊
What you using the nvidia for mate. Thinking about getting one
These are 3v batteries so should you have 6v ? Not sure how they are configured, but 2.8v is too low.
Stupid remote control. Can't wait to see the fix if you ever figure it out.
I think you can turn on electricity by power supply, 3 volt and more amps (than in battary). Than you will see in infrared thermometer a spot with a short.
Top tip for CR batteries, get Duracell or Energizer ones, always good and last ages. Ikea ones are just cheap and nasty.
1:28 See how the surface of the batteries look cloudy? Thats corrosion.
Dont touch lithium batteries directly. My understanding is the casings are made from a low resistance alloy which is VERY reactive to the salty oil coming out of your skin.
If held like a coin you may get that salty oil in the insulating ring (between the top and back) and it creates a short.
Normal button batteries can put up with it. Any battery where the number starts with a CR is lithium.
You win some, you lose some, but you live to fight another day.
if the board itself is not drawing current, but the batteries are obviously being drained, then maybe there's something shorted on the battery sled
I was thinking something similar. maybe its not shorted while its out of the case, but once in, it is?
Shouldn’t you be getting 6v from the batteries not 2.8v?
They're connected in parallel
connected in series
Those buttons can still short even with the top part removed. Try cleaning the areas between the inner and outer areas with IPA
Yes, can't believe he didn't try this!
hi cool vid as always , love your channel , funny seeing the t shirts you wear too , i have most of them , particulary like the onyx one . not many folks know about or remember them lol . im no expert but watching you led to me having a go at fixing my phone and managed to repair it . was a bit chuffed . whats worst could happen , it get fixed or remains buggered. nowt to lose . can i ask what flux do you use ? just got an ebay cheapo hot air and soldering station . 50 quid so not expecting miracles from a chinese sweatshop but worth a punt for a newbie . all the best from west leeds mate .
Since it are 2 batteries in series... shouldn't the voltage be around 6V?
Dear StezStix Fix
Firstly, i find your methodology of faultfinding funny and informative Thank you for your content. I am wondering if you could share the method you often use to unsolder components. You use what appears to be hot glue and a heat gun? I have only ever used a soldering iron and very interested in how you do this? Thanks..HKM. keep up the quality content!
I think the goop is some sort of flux.
Hmm shouldn't the voltage be reading 6V rather than 2.8V as there are 2 batteries?
Two CR 2025 battery in series should produce 6 volts ( 3 volts each)... am I right?
They are in parallel, not series.
Why guess it's the remote? Could be the other way around .. the receiver end, or your Nvidia SHIELD?
Great song! Thanks.
2 videos is great!!!! I wish you’d make 1-2 videos a week
Don't you have to depress one of the buttons to get the IR to light up anyway?
I just had issues too with a new battery install. Tried all button combinations. Figured I try the Nintendo fix. Blow into the remote with the battery slot out. Worked a minute later.
Last remote that didn't work for me it was the IR LED. Did the phone camera trick. Also testing with meter one way around usually causes led to flash. Also tested my led on component tester and was faulty. Never came up as diode. Pinched led from another unused remote and it worked.
First unplug the nivid shield for a minute then plug it back in that might do the trick.
If that doesn't work it's an easy fix. It has to do with the battery's not seating properly due to a small pice of plastic breaking off on the battery sockets. I cut a sliver of cardboard from a soda box, a bit smaller than the battery dock, and slid it under the battery dock while inserting it in the controller. This will jam the battery dock in the controller, so be sure to leave a pice of the cardboard hanging out so you can replace the battery's in the future.
He injected 3V onto the battery contacts (I'm guessing) and it still didn't work
any tips on how to get the battery tray to eject as mines stuck and need to change the batteries. brute force?
Had the same exact issue with it not working on my shield. It started working by itself days later. Very strange. It's been fine since.
Stumbled onto this as mine appeared to be acting up - in my case it turned out it had instead paired with my downstairs newer model nVidia Shield (the "roll"). Once I explicitly removed it from that one it was instantly back to the old device (no explicit pairing needed). Hope this helps someone who ends up here - might not be Steve's problem...
clean the contacts,,,:), maybe the signal gets obstructed by grease, could be on the transmitter too..., if u get low power on the batteries, try replace those...
the only thing i can think of, is try to factory reset the remote. Buddy of mine got his to work again with that, but! but!!!! it did die after 2 weeks again.
Remove the back cover of the Nvidia Shield remote
Take out one of the batteries
Hold down the center “select” button and the home button at the same time
While still pressing both of those buttons, reinsert the battery that was taken out and then continue to hold the buttons
If this is done correctly, shortly after you reinsert the battery, you should hear a beeping sound
Now unplug, then replug the power from the back of the Nvidia Shield, this will turn the Shield on without the remote.
Try clicking some buttons to help re-pair the remote. Give the remote up to 30 seconds-1 minute to re-pair with the Nvidia Shield.
This should hopefully fix the issue. (maybe)
I have the newer version, but, maybe try a Bluetooth keyboard+mouse. Then turn on HDMI CEC. You can use you tv remote as a stand in over CEC. You could also buy a shield controller it will work as a remote and probably (at this stage) be the same cost as new remote.
Edit: Also as a workaround:. I also use a Rii mini i8+. Because I hate running between my desk and the couch. The remote is out of reach. You can exclusively use the Rii pad as a replacement or augmented remote.
00:45 was just about to comment on seeing that wee white light...
Keep trying I enjoy watching your micro soldering got good
I have the same remote and it died yesterday, nothing at all, new batteries made no difference. If you point a remote at a camera phone it shows the IR quite nicely - the Shield remote is totally dead. I loaded up the mobile phone app for the shield and it works well, very disappointing though.
I dropped my remote a few times but it didn't break thankfully. I did upgrade to the newer remote sometime last year though, which seems to be a lot better in terms of function and design
Its the IR emitter.
I have the newer style sheild TV remote and it stops working so I need to do a reset on it.
Not sure the rest process on this remote
We used to push on the remotes, so a line on the pcb could have been broken. I had e few, searching and fixing takes a long time
mine was draining the cell batterys in 1 day so i got a imitation remote from flebay for about 10 dollars and works great. good luck
The 2017 / 2019 Shield remotes are weird. Your 2017 remote seems to use IR as the 2019 (Tovarome triangle) remote might be Bluetooth. To test IR remotes I use my phone camera and point it at it. If you hit a button, the emitter with either flash purple or green. Also also, even your component tester you have has an IR receiver on it, which even gives you a code of what is being emitted. My question is, @4:57 those two tabs Mec502/Mec504 , are they some sort of tabbed interlock and what would happen if they were jumpered? On an upside, I know android phones have a Shield remote app that will allow you to use your phone as the remote. Very handy especially if you need to type any alphanumeric characters.
Weird have 2 paths (or more) shorted to ground but that CY8C4128LQI-BL483 chip is the RFID so maybe is indeed faulty? Sadly the chip cost way more than just a get a new remote.
My favorite remote is the tivo stream 4k remote. I've constantly wondered if it can be paired with the Nvidia shield and be fully functional
Love the music on this one man. :)
It could be the IR (if it was sending signals it would light up in the video: it didn't), I had a Dreambox remote control some time ago which didn't work, I changed it and it worked again for a few days until again it was not working, it turns out one of the components was sending more voltage so it fries the IR. I didn't change the component because I don't know which one it is AND because I bought a second remote control. Maybe I will give it a go sometime again.
I wonder where you bought those batteries
Wow! 2 videos today? Nice!
Better / different batteries.. 2.8 is dead.
New batteries are typically 3.3v
Try using your bench power supply?
That remote has something really wrong with it. They start acting up by eating batteries real fast and then they fail. Replace with the newer Toblerone-shaped one, the ones that come with the 2019 version of the ShieldTV.
Hey Steve, any revisits soon?
I'd probably use a logic analyzer or scope next to see if the the chips are triggering like they should be.
Everyone keeps going to the IR but surely this only had IR to do things like volume on the TV and will use Bluetooth or similar pair with the main unit. Surely if it's a faulty IR it would therefore still pair but then not control the TV???
You know what's crazy. My Amazon fire TV stick had the same damn problem. It worked fine. It's brand new and then all the sudden one day the damn remote couldn't work and then I took the batteries out of it for a couple of literally months. Popped them in one day and the damn thing started working again... And I literally tried changing the batteries like four or five times throughout the couple months that I wasn't even using it. I was using the phone app to control my TV
I would hard wire using a bench power. I had a remote (not that one) when replacing this coin batteries and it still failed and it was cause of the "new" batteries were still junk. Don't like coin batteries always had bad luck with those.
I just wanted to tell you...
When you're working on this stuff...
I can see up your nose.
*muffled bug noises and laughter*
now i know you watch northridge fix cause you said 9th Dimension lmao and i said it with you
I had the same problem, solved it by downloading the nvidia shield remote app😉
Got the same on a Firestick remote, no idea what's wrong, guess they have a shelf life.
Hammer
I got one of those with mine when i bought it years ago. New ones came out with the triangle remote, but, couldn't buy them at the time on their own.
The second they had the new remotes on sale i bought one. Not a clue where the stupid flat one is now lol
GOOD VID, WERES MUSIC FROM IF K...
I have the same issue.. what is strange at some point it worked again but now it’s dead.. same as you it sound like the remote drain the battery but doesn’t work
Stupid remote control. Idd it is . But great work anyway. maby you can use it for a door stop.