The magnets to secure the nickel strips is a genious idea, i saw so many diy and repair batteries videos, and yet its the time i see this "trick" awesome.
I tried to get my easy motion neo city bike battery rebuilt (I think it’s Bosch) and nobody will do it. You make it look so easy. Having two batteries is the trick. Thanks a lot, great video!
I appreciate the time you took to make this video - it has been many years for me - but as an apprentice I always needed to see everything - so kudos 👍
Hello, I've got a question. I disassemble 48v battery pack, i already unmount general plug and the bms. When I wanted to start removing the nickel strips, I had a little short circuit! I wanted to ask you: By where to start removing the nickel bands without risking an electrocution? or an explosion... Otherwise thank you for this interesting video.
I thought the ebike battery enclosure would already be fairly watertight. Any tips for how to avoid water damage? Also generally, are the downtube shark batteries or rear rack batteries more teliable in terms of resisting water damage, overheating, or ither issues of longevity?
I have a Bosch gen4 motor and battery on my mountain bike. I'd love to add a connection for an additional battery for long rides. Is this possible? It would be a good video subject!
Hello, I have changed all cells of my battery (power pack 400 bosch), in the input voltage from BMS there is 39V, but the output voltage of BMS I have 0V. It is clear that the transistors of BMS does not working. When I do short circuit with one wire these transistors I have voltage on the output and I can charge the cells with charger. The leds 2 and 4 of the BMS are flashing if I push reset switch or when I plug the charger. When I plug the battery charged into ebike the motor does not work but and the Purion indicator show battery chargued fully. It is like the can bus from BMS is dead....Outwardly there is nothing burned and the 5v is present. Could the BMS leave work nice because I have changed the cells??? Any idea what is the matter ? Is it BMS reset possible with BOSCH Software? Thanks!
When a bms is faulty what causes it to go faulty? Mine shut off due to defective cells... replaced the 4 cells reconnected to the bms. The battery is 16.8v fully charged but the output on power output on the BMS is only 12V.....when the bms fails, is it simply garbage after this or can you "reset it" ?
Great it looks that this Bosch BMS doesn not became unsuable when you disconnect the wiring! Have you tested the battery on the bicycle? Any similar experience with Shimano battery BT E-8010 for exmple? Thanks for the video
Yes, that has never been a problem for us with bosch. But Yamaha is not so kind. Shimano BT-E6000 and other ending with 00 we can fix. but the ones ending in 10 will refuse charge after cell replacement.
Hi, sorry, without the original charger, if I send voltage to the positive and negative of the BMS the battery won't charge? Or even by disconnecting the 3 additional wires? Thank you
Must admit I stopped tearing the link strips off when I realised there was a significant risk it would leave a perforated cell case. If you prefer to solder it is also helpful to be able to keep heat away from the actual cell if you can solder to a previously welded tab.
I have a question. I checked voltage in each battery cell on a 36v 500w e-bike battery, they were 4.3v in each cell, accepted 5 cells. Cells say they are 3.6v, 2500 mAh, 9.0Watts. 5 batteries read 1.2 volts when still in the pack. I figured they were bad, so I removed them. Then I checked them again out of the pack and got crazy numbers. Here are the numbers, Why? 5.6v, 1.9v 5.6v 1.3v 13.1v HELP PLEASE!
good morning from spain.......my english is not very good but i am watching your videos and they are helping me a lot.....one question......if you have problems with the electronics of the bosch batteries ...... how do you solve it?
Hello, I have a problem with the bms of my battery (power pack 400 bosch) on the BMS at the input I have 41v but at the output of the BMS I have 0v do you have any idea where this might come from please ? the 5 leds of the BMS light up
Good BMS would turn off output for undervoltage. Let’s suppose that 41v is much less than the charger’s rating, but nobody knows because you haven’t mentioned any specs, model numbers, none of anything.
@@HighestRank hello, now when I charge my battery 3 LEDs flash at the same time as if the battery is too hot or too cold when the temperature is normal do you know where it could come from? when I press the button to check its capacity it displays the 4 leds and turns off
I recently got a 48 V rear 1000 watt Dumb down factory to 750. A 58 ah battery. All I hook up is the motor wires and the battery. No ebike brake. I use mine no power. It flaps the breeze. No peddle assist ither. It ran fine a few days then the power cut out. checked fuse. OK Replace same fuse. Power came on lights on.???? 1 mile later the same musical fuse. Then half mile then quarter the blocks. It's getting worse and worse. Got a clue?
I have a pack @36 volts nominal. When I got it, there was no voltage on the output/charger connecter. So I opened the pack and charged it to 36 V from 24 volts, by by-passing the bms. Still no voltage on the output connecter. The LEDS show off/on/off/on/off. My question is how to make the BMS turn on. That is, get 36 v on the outout connecter. Can I just apply 36 V to the output connecter?
The BMS only activtes via Bosch canbus handshake, if you want to use the battery for something else you can add a new BMS. If you want a to activate Bosch BMS for some reason (like capacity test) you need a bosch activator, it's around €200 in the EU.
Hi, I am new to batteries but after my Bosch 500 powerpack died during charging about 10 months ago I have decided I need to learn. Firstly I have to tell you I did buy a replacement at $1100. After watching your video I opened the powerpack yesterday and while the battery tested completely dead at the BMS plugs if I test it where the BMS is connected to the batteries its testing out at 41 volts and that's after sitting for 10 months. When the battery failed it was around 80% flat when i put it on the charger where it started charging as per usual, around an hour later it was still charging ok but i noticed a further hour or so in it had stopped charging and was completely dead. This has got me thinking could the BMS have popped during charging ? is there a way to test the BMS and are replacement BMS boards available? If it is just the board it would save me stripping and de-tagging the the whole battery.
About puncturing cell case at the negative side when removing the nickel strip: they don't leak right away, it happens when they heat to some 50C and then pressure gets higher and it leaks at the weakest spot at the bottom. It may look normal at first. Happened to me many times while salvaging 18650. Of course if I had an unlimited supply of 3000+ mah genuine cells maybe I would be tearing strips on negative sides at 200 cells/hr like crazy gorilla too lol
Well we make sure not puncture them. I have taken apparat over 20000 cells so i can tell if it punctured, none of these are. Cells should also not get over 50C and they never do during normal use. Can you please show a video how to remove the nickel in a different way? We test alls cells and sell them and have never had any complaint.
@@TheBatteryDoctor not sure how to post images, this is how cells look when you tear their nickel strips: i.imgur.com/rDPCUfW.jpg they were together for so long and now they are sad after such a loss:( A better way to keep them happy: i.imgur.com/qRmzn4a.jpg Definitely more time consuming but safer and less wasted cells. I'm cutting the nickel strips with pliers and bending edges back to the cell case. Also according to ncr18650ga datasheet it's discharge temperature is up to 60°C and storage up to 50°C.
im doing a 48v battrey got a new bms i know wot the + and - is but do it mater ware the fucking balence wires go 12 wirs for the fucking balnce wires ?
i just saved a ebike from the metal scrapper its a almost brand new bike but a replacement battery cost like 690 euros there aint no fucking way im spending that kinda money on a godamnn battery i looked inside and they all use this allie expres battery u find them in almost anything now adays i have a portable powerbank and behold same batery is in there and those thing ar dirt cheap so seeing this video it aint rocket sience maybe while im at it im gonna instal a allieexpres bms as well because again u need to pay 15 euros to get that serviced once every so many km or every iseu but im not sure if its gonna work if the bms is in the battery pack and not in the wheel hub motor assembly is it just plug solder and play btw im from holland 🤣
The magnets to secure the nickel strips is a genious idea, i saw so many diy and repair batteries videos, and yet its the time i see this "trick" awesome.
I tried to get my easy motion neo city bike battery rebuilt (I think it’s Bosch) and nobody will do it. You make it look so easy. Having two batteries is the trick. Thanks a lot, great video!
I appreciate the time you took to make this video - it has been many years for me - but as an apprentice I always needed to see everything - so kudos 👍
Hello, I've got a question. I disassemble 48v battery pack, i already unmount general plug and the bms. When I wanted to start removing the nickel strips, I had a little short circuit! I wanted to ask you: By where to start removing the nickel bands without risking an electrocution? or an explosion... Otherwise thank you for this interesting video.
We asked for long videos - this was only one hour long ...........
Good man.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge and skills.
I thought the ebike battery enclosure would already be fairly watertight. Any tips for how to avoid water damage?
Also generally, are the downtube shark batteries or rear rack batteries more teliable in terms of resisting water damage, overheating, or ither issues of longevity?
As of August 2021 are there any higher density 18650s available when repacking a powertube 625 to gain more Wh's??
Good to see the process
Great video! Oh yeah, well done!
I have a Bosch gen4 motor and battery on my mountain bike. I'd love to add a connection for an additional battery for long rides. Is this possible? It would be a good video subject!
Hello, I have changed all cells of my battery (power pack 400 bosch), in the input voltage from BMS there is 39V, but the output voltage of BMS I have 0V. It is clear that the transistors of BMS does not working. When I do short circuit with one wire these transistors I have voltage on the output and I can charge the cells with charger.
The leds 2 and 4 of the BMS are flashing if I push reset switch or when I plug the charger.
When I plug the battery charged into ebike the motor does not work but and the Purion indicator show battery chargued fully. It is like the can bus from BMS is dead....Outwardly there is nothing burned and the 5v is present.
Could the BMS leave work nice because I have changed the cells???
Any idea what is the matter ?
Is it BMS reset possible with BOSCH Software?
Thanks!
Bravo Another overhauled 500w battery for a Bosch motor..
When a bms is faulty what causes it to go faulty? Mine shut off due to defective cells... replaced the 4 cells reconnected to the bms. The battery is 16.8v fully charged but the output on power output on the BMS is only 12V.....when the bms fails, is it simply garbage after this or can you "reset it" ?
Great it looks that this Bosch BMS doesn not became unsuable when you disconnect the wiring! Have you tested the battery on the bicycle?
Any similar experience with Shimano battery BT E-8010 for exmple?
Thanks for the video
Yes, that has never been a problem for us with bosch. But Yamaha is not so kind. Shimano BT-E6000 and other ending with 00 we can fix. but the ones ending in 10 will refuse charge after cell replacement.
Hi, sorry, without the original charger, if I send voltage to the positive and negative of the BMS the battery won't charge? Or even by disconnecting the 3 additional wires? Thank you
Where did you get the frame for the battery?
Best day , can fix ebike bosch classic battery BMS ?
Must admit I stopped tearing the link strips off when I realised there was a significant risk it would leave a perforated cell case. If you prefer to solder it is also helpful to be able to keep heat away from the actual cell if you can solder to a previously welded tab.
I have a question. I checked voltage in each battery cell on a 36v 500w e-bike battery, they were 4.3v in each cell, accepted 5 cells. Cells say they are 3.6v, 2500 mAh, 9.0Watts. 5 batteries read 1.2 volts when still in the pack. I figured they were bad, so I removed them. Then I checked them again out of the pack and got crazy numbers. Here are the numbers, Why? 5.6v, 1.9v 5.6v 1.3v 13.1v HELP PLEASE!
Do you have access to a circuit board for 400 powerpack?
good morning from spain.......my english is not very good but i am watching your videos and they are helping me a lot.....one question......if you have problems with the electronics of the bosch batteries ...... how do you solve it?
Question. After 27.05. The magnets are gone and the strips are connected.
How ? My regards
Bravos !
Hello, I have a problem with the bms of my battery (power pack 400 bosch) on the BMS at the input I have 41v but at the output of the BMS I have 0v
do you have any idea where this might come from please ?
the 5 leds of the BMS light up
Good BMS would turn off output for undervoltage. Let’s suppose that 41v is much less than the charger’s rating, but nobody knows because you haven’t mentioned any specs, model numbers, none of anything.
@@HighestRank excuse me, the manufacturer reference is 10INR18 / 65-4 Bosch PowerPack Rack 36V 11.6 Ah
when I put the battery on the bike and I turn on the screen the battery flashes on the screen and the 5 LEDs flash at the same time on the battery
@@HighestRank hello, now when I charge my battery 3 LEDs flash at the same time as if the battery is too hot or too cold when the temperature is normal
do you know where it could come from?
when I press the button to check its capacity it displays the 4 leds and turns off
Have you ever fixed a flyon battery
Hello battery doctor. Do you have a list of nickel current rating, based on your own experiment? That you would like to share?
We will do that experiment in the winter.
Maybe you should put heatshrink instead of insulation tape, I think it's better and safer option.
I recently got a 48 V rear 1000 watt
Dumb down factory to 750.
A 58 ah battery.
All I hook up is the motor wires and the battery. No ebike brake. I use mine no power. It flaps the breeze.
No peddle assist ither.
It ran fine a few days then the power cut out. checked fuse. OK
Replace same fuse. Power came on lights on.????
1 mile later the same musical fuse.
Then half mile then quarter the blocks.
It's getting worse and worse.
Got a clue?
why not to put marks to for the sides?
I have a pack @36 volts nominal. When I got it, there was no voltage on the output/charger connecter. So I opened the pack and charged it to 36 V from 24 volts, by by-passing the bms. Still no voltage on the output connecter. The LEDS show off/on/off/on/off. My question is how to make the BMS turn on. That is, get 36 v on the outout connecter. Can I just apply 36 V to the output connecter?
The BMS only activtes via Bosch canbus handshake, if you want to use the battery for something else you can add a new BMS. If you want a to activate Bosch BMS for some reason (like capacity test) you need a bosch activator, it's around €200 in the EU.
In your video I did not see how you fix the nickels at the cells.
Hi, I am new to batteries but after my Bosch 500 powerpack died during charging about 10 months ago I have decided I need to learn. Firstly I have to tell you I did buy a replacement at $1100. After watching your video I opened the powerpack yesterday and while the battery tested completely dead at the BMS plugs if I test it where the BMS is connected to the batteries its testing out at 41 volts and that's after sitting for 10 months. When the battery failed it was around 80% flat when i put it on the charger where it started charging as per usual, around an hour later it was still charging ok but i noticed a further hour or so in it had stopped charging and was completely dead. This has got me thinking could the BMS have popped during charging ? is there a way to test the BMS and are replacement BMS boards available? If it is just the board it would save me stripping and de-tagging the the whole battery.
I am also interested if BMS are available for Bosch Powerpack?
About puncturing cell case at the negative side when removing the nickel strip: they don't leak right away, it happens when they heat to some 50C and then pressure gets higher and it leaks at the weakest spot at the bottom. It may look normal at first. Happened to me many times while salvaging 18650. Of course if I had an unlimited supply of 3000+ mah genuine cells maybe I would be tearing strips on negative sides at 200 cells/hr like crazy gorilla too lol
Well we make sure not puncture them. I have taken apparat over 20000 cells so i can tell if it punctured, none of these are. Cells should also not get over 50C and they never do during normal use. Can you please show a video how to remove the nickel in a different way? We test alls cells and sell them and have never had any complaint.
@@TheBatteryDoctor not sure how to post images, this is how cells look when you tear their nickel strips:
i.imgur.com/rDPCUfW.jpg
they were together for so long and now they are sad after such a loss:(
A better way to keep them happy:
i.imgur.com/qRmzn4a.jpg
Definitely more time consuming but safer and less wasted cells. I'm cutting the nickel strips with pliers and bending edges back to the cell case.
Also according to ncr18650ga datasheet it's discharge temperature is up to 60°C and storage up to 50°C.
Mille commenti nessuna risposta.
im doing a 48v battrey got a new bms i know wot the + and - is but do it mater ware the fucking balence wires go 12 wirs for the fucking balnce wires ?
Smurf pins = Key (pins) or Locator (pins) or Alignment (pins) but smurfs is better.
Smurf penises, not pins.
Too late I already shorted mine out.
i just saved a ebike from the metal scrapper its a almost brand new bike but a replacement battery cost like 690 euros there aint no fucking way im spending that kinda money on a godamnn battery i looked inside and they all use this allie expres battery u find them in almost anything now adays i have a portable powerbank and behold same batery is in there and those thing ar dirt cheap so seeing this video it aint rocket sience maybe while im at it im gonna instal a allieexpres bms as well because again u need to pay 15 euros to get that serviced once every so many km or every iseu but im not sure if its gonna work if the bms is in the battery pack and not in the wheel hub motor assembly is it just plug solder and play btw im from holland 🤣
wtf using second cel for e-bike battery ? 😂😂😂😂😂
They are unused so like new.
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