I don't know why one might want to give a 'thumbs-down' on this video. Very puzzling. Great overview of connectors. One question - is there a max amperage / wattage rating for any of these?
... those Votes are by Non-technical people, who are afraid of Computers, laptops and other Electronic devices that have an Interface, buttons, and LED panels 🤔 It's mind boggling that they can use a Toaster or Microwave without having an Anxiety attack 😆
Hi there my friend, I would just like your help again. I'm linking 3 X 270 watt panels to a 1000watt Ginalong solis grid tie inverter but the inverter doesn't state what fuse/breaker to use from the inverter to the mains/grid. I've contacted the seller but he just said hard wire it to the breaker box. what size breaker or fuse would you use to be on the safe side? any help would be appreciated.
I would recommend Weatherpack or Metripack connectors for an automotive applications. They're weather resistant, meant for the heat, vibration, and chemicals in vehicles, and they're pretty affordable for that style of connector.
Anderson connectors are uncommon outside of small solar kits. You can either cut off the Anderson connectors or use an adapter such as this one: amzn.to/3eLdWcm
I know that you are trying to be helpful and informative. You show solderless crimp connectors. At 1:28 you show a SOLDER crimp lug connector. If somebody uses that for solderless connectors, they will not make a good connection. They will pull out with very little strain.
I would like to hook my 450 watts of panels to charge controller with 8 awg wire but the MC4 connectors won't take a 8 gauge wire will it? So as to not lose amps from the distance.... 6 awg would be best actually... I can pull in 24 amps if the wire would hold it... Is there much difference switching between 8 awg and 10 awg (I have now) in a 30' run to the controller? side note: My EPever MPPT controller can only take up to 8 awg anyway I think...the connections in the front arn't very big really...
They will work but they are not designed for it. #10AWG is the biggest they are supposed to use and be UL rated. I would recommend that you connect to a combiner box. That is what they are for. Make short runs with #10AWG to a combiner box and then send one #6 or #4AWG to your charge controller from there.
oh yeah? a combiner box? didn't know there was a thing ...thanks. I was using the connectors to one 10 awg feed, in stead of a combiner box I guess.... I just don't wanna lose any amps at all if I can avoid it. and cables are something I can control...lol
Yes you can control the cables but the bigger they are the more expensive. If you want to stay at 12V then you will have to use #2AWG cable to go 30' to your controller. The other option is to wire the panels in series to increase the voltage, which can handle thinner cable over distance better without voltage drop.
ah... can do series? I didn't know if that would be too much Volts and still a 12V System... I can do series...that would be ok....thanks Till I can afford 30' or so of 2 awg (probably 150. bux)
Yes you can do series. Just make sure your charge controller can handle it. Good quality charge controllers can usually handle 24V input and still be able to output 12V to the battery bank. But just make sure before you try it. If you need help finding a suitable charge controller, I sell the full line of Blue Sky Energy and Genasun charge controllers. I can help you pick one out.
That is true. They require a special tool to take them apart. But they are also not meant to be taken apart very often. They are generally for permanent or semi-permanent connections.
![⭐️( ลอยกระทง 2024 ) Ver. แดนซ์ Remix BY [ ดีเจกิต รีมิกซ์ ]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/rMWOLhgXUHc/mqdefault.jpg)
Excellent video! short, clear and very informative.
Thanks! I appreciate it.
Excellent! This is a great intro series for anyone considering solar ... thank you for taking the time and sharing this info!
+fannygitchyurgun spiritwind No problem, thanks for watching!
I don't know why one might want to give a 'thumbs-down' on this video. Very puzzling. Great overview of connectors. One question - is there a max amperage / wattage rating for any of these?
Great question. I don't know. I would bet you would exceed the current carrying capacity of the wires before the connectors but that is just my guess.
... those Votes are by Non-technical people, who are afraid of Computers, laptops and other Electronic devices that have an Interface, buttons, and LED panels 🤔
It's mind boggling that they can use a Toaster or Microwave without having an Anxiety attack 😆
Thumbs up !Good information. Wado.ENJOY....THE SIMPLE LIFE
+Wolf Travels2 Appreciate it!
Excellent information, Thank you.
You are welcome. Thanks for watching! Be sure to subscribe if you haven't already.
Hi there my friend, I would just like your help again. I'm linking 3 X 270 watt panels to a 1000watt Ginalong solis grid tie inverter but the inverter doesn't state what fuse/breaker to use from the inverter to the mains/grid. I've contacted the seller but he just said hard wire it to the breaker box. what size breaker or fuse would you use to be on the safe side? any help would be appreciated.
what is the best and lowest priced lithium lifepo4 batteries for off grid living
They aren't cheap but you can get them from the following reputable places:
www.lithiumstorage.com/index.php/en/
bioennopower.com/
Mc4 can be used in motorcycle electrical connections? Considering with all harsh weather conditions...
I would recommend Weatherpack or Metripack connectors for an automotive applications. They're weather resistant, meant for the heat, vibration, and chemicals in vehicles, and they're pretty affordable for that style of connector.
What wattage is that panel in the last pic in this video?
I don't know for sure but it looks to be around 140-180W or so.
@@LDSreliance thanks
MC4 connectors...thumbs up! Mounting solar panels flat on roofs....thumbs down. Good video for those beginning their solar power journeys.
+Chris DIYer Yeah I noticed that in the picture. That was obviously not me in the picture. Good catch, though!
I have a solar panel with anderson powerpole connectors. I want to change to mc4 connector. I see you didn't mention anderson powerpole connectors.
Anderson connectors are uncommon outside of small solar kits. You can either cut off the Anderson connectors or use an adapter such as this one: amzn.to/3eLdWcm
excellent
Thanks, Brent! I appreciate it.
Can anyone explain me about gland nut and enclosure of MC4 connector?
I know that you are trying to be helpful and informative. You show solderless crimp connectors. At 1:28 you show a SOLDER crimp lug connector. If somebody uses that for solderless connectors, they will not make a good connection. They will pull out with very little strain.
I would like to hook my 450 watts of panels to charge controller with 8 awg wire but the MC4 connectors won't take a 8 gauge wire will it? So as to not lose amps from the distance.... 6 awg would be best actually... I can pull in 24 amps if the wire would hold it...
Is there much difference switching between 8 awg and 10 awg (I have now) in a 30' run to the controller?
side note: My EPever MPPT controller can only take up to 8 awg anyway I think...the connections in the front arn't very big really...
They will work but they are not designed for it. #10AWG is the biggest they are supposed to use and be UL rated. I would recommend that you connect to a combiner box. That is what they are for. Make short runs with #10AWG to a combiner box and then send one #6 or #4AWG to your charge controller from there.
oh yeah? a combiner box? didn't know there was a thing ...thanks.
I was using the connectors to one 10 awg feed, in stead of a combiner box I guess....
I just don't wanna lose any amps at all if I can avoid it. and cables are something I can control...lol
Yes you can control the cables but the bigger they are the more expensive. If you want to stay at 12V then you will have to use #2AWG cable to go 30' to your controller. The other option is to wire the panels in series to increase the voltage, which can handle thinner cable over distance better without voltage drop.
ah... can do series? I didn't know if that would be too much Volts and still a 12V System... I can do series...that would be ok....thanks Till I can afford 30' or so of 2 awg (probably 150. bux)
Yes you can do series. Just make sure your charge controller can handle it. Good quality charge controllers can usually handle 24V input and still be able to output 12V to the battery bank. But just make sure before you try it. If you need help finding a suitable charge controller, I sell the full line of Blue Sky Energy and Genasun charge controllers. I can help you pick one out.
If you need to use EC8 connectors, look here: th-cam.com/video/n5_ptr6yFWY/w-d-xo.html
I hope the people who came up with this POS connectors rot in hell. They are not easy to take apart at all .
That is true. They require a special tool to take them apart. But they are also not meant to be taken apart very often. They are generally for permanent or semi-permanent connections.