The Easy Way To Install New Solar MC4 Connectors
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 27 มิ.ย. 2023
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Whether you are setting up your own DIY solar setup or just want to repair a damaged connector having a few tools and a little knowledge will make this job a quick fix. The PV Solar default connector is the MC4 and the design is robust and easy to assemble in just a few minutes.
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Really good video. I've done MANY MC4 fittings, but watched this as a reminder of orientation. (In contrast, the "professional" Renogy video didn't tell how much wire to strip back OR the orientation of the fitting to be crimped. What a difference yours was to theirs. (But this speaks to their entire company in general, being only Marketers and Re-sellers of a Chinese manufacturing company- they really don't know anything about solar past their maketing material.) Nuce to have some actual high-qualiity professional videos for folks. 👍
Is one end of the extension cable male and the other end female??
Thank you.. good tutorial to retrofit my ancient suitcase solar panel which only came for hookups to a battery 👍🏻
Happy to help 👍
Good education- thanks.
Pretty surprised that NEC wire size requirements not mentioned.
Just what I thought and checked here to make sure. Great video, thanks!
Happy to help 👍
Nice demonstration.
Thank you!
Thank you for sharing 👍👍👍♥️
Thanks for mentioning the 2 different barrel sizes. Smaller barrels get connected to the female and larger to the male.
Yeah, easy to start crimping and make a mistake for sure.
thanks, I got some secondhand panels but the previous owner just simply cut off the cables. Just the info I needed to install new connectors
Scott, consider a short video on how many panels can be connected with MC4, how much current, how many amps,what size wires, how many branches are safe before combiner box.
Thats more in depth. Thats a diy solar with will prowse
Best practice is to put the end cap pieces on the wire first. MC4 connectors should fit through but other types won't, so don't start a bad habit.
I like to use dielectric grease too you never know if you need to take it apart Thx
Thank You !!
thank you!
I been looking at the crimpers on Amazon but it doesn't look like any of them will crimp 8AWG. So If you want to run 8, how do you connect it to the crimp fittings? And, if you run say 4 panels in series for less line loss, can you split the leads with 2 Y adapters to go into two charge controllers?
Always enjoy your videos. I just purchased the oupes mega 3. I am trying to find information on extension cables. The power station and the portable panels come with 14 gauge wire. I would like to make 50' extensions with 10 gauge wire. Do you think overheating would be an issue at the 14 gauge ends?
For the DIYer, do keep those ends apart, and insulated to avoid the panels accidentally short circuiting.
While it looks nice in the video to have both stripped ends in the same hand, the chance of accident, especially with multiple panels in circuit is quite high.
DC arcs can be nastier than AC arcs.
The ability to show the connection/disconnection at the end did rely on the pieces being part of a separated extension cable.
Good info
Thanks!
Thanks for the informative videos. I'm looking to add a solar cutoff switch in my toy hauler trailer. The solar charge controller is inside the bathroom wall and I'm looking for a solar cutoff switch that I can mount inside the wall, with the wires inside and the actual switch being the only part coming through the wall. I can't find what I think I need. Does anyone have suggestions on the best way to do this? Also, do I need to cutoff both + & - or just + since I do have a normal 12v battery cutoff switch at the battery.
Thanks.
I recently purchased an EcoFlow Delta Pro with an extra battery. I also bought 4 solar panels locally with a (Voc) of 48.48 and an (Isc) of 10.14. Can I hook up all 4 in series and over-panel, or will I fry my unit. I have seen on TH-cam how many people over-panel this system. However, the purchase was expensive, and I don't want to be out $4,500. I would truly appreciate your insight and guidance on this issue. Thank you
Hi Scott, I want to DIY my system totally and would appreciate your knowledge. Are there any free resources to evaluate my back yard for proper direction to place my array's. I am guessing I'll buy 3 fold up 400w strings (1200w total) to only use for extended outages. I have 2 EcoFlow Delta Pro's + 2 extra EFDFlow batteries (14400wh I think) and plan to only deploy the 1200W panel array when needed because of extended outage's. Is 1200w of panels an OK amount for my 4 battery system? How should they all be inter-connected and then to my EcoFlow system? Thanks for any help on this, Bob R.
Nice setup! Would you just switch the XT60 connector between each of your 4 batteries? Each of the Delta Pro and Extra batteries units could take up to 1600 Watts of power from solar. With the proposed setup you would have a nice flow on a sunny day of around 900-1,100 Watts coming through 1 string, into a MC4 to XT60 cable and then plugged into only one unit.
you didnt say what to do on the other end.
It depends on what you are using it for: xt60, ring terminals, mc4, etc.
You said the positive wire is usually connected to a female pin. Is that true at both ends of the cable or is the other end of your positive cable a male pin?
If making an extension MC4 cable, each end needs to be the opposite connector
Thanks, it's a good tutorial. I'm wondering if there's any value in also soldering the termination after crimping..? I ask because I recently had cause to do an investigation on my Solar PV Inverter and a very intermittent circuit breaking tripping issue. Upon checking the DC Isolator - located between the array string cable and the Inverter - I discovered some significant corrosion and evidence of arching. This was possibly due to insufficient torquing of the wires, and being multi-strand, this is always a potential issue. So, just thinking that anything we can do to ensure a solid, permanent connection of the (relatively high voltage) DC cable and any/all connectors and terminations has to be good.
A proper crimp would be good enough but solder could be a little more insurance.
Should we be measuring the resistance of the cables to make sure that the crimping has been done properly?
That is a good call 👍
I always solder my connectors for worry free connections.
I use MC4's as convenient cable extenders too. I think it works quite well and it is amazingly convenient. I also use them sometimes when cabling into equipment by having a short cable coming out of the equipment that the main cable connects to. Instead of cabling directly into the equipment.
I do a few extra steps, though, to make absolutely sure that nothing will ever go wrong.
#1 - I don't just crimp the cable. I also solder it after crimping (making sure the solder doesn't accidentally impede the tabs that click into the housing). MC4 cable ends are insanely easy to solder after you've done the crimp. The junction just sucks it up.
#2 - I always hand-test the junctions at full load after connecting two cables together to make sure there is no excessive heat.
#3 - And I always use 10-gauge or 6mm^2 (which is slightly thicker than 10 gauge) cable. In the past I used a mix of 12-gauge and 10-gauge, but over the years because of cable re-use and cable lengths I ultimately decided to consolidate to just using 10-gauge for all solar cabling, even if I was only putting 10A through the cable.
I like the MC4s in this regard because they are moisture-sealed and have integrated strain-relief. You get neither with XT-style connectors or anderson connectors.
I got a power bank and bought its recommended solar panel but the input is DC and the panels output is MC4 so what do I do?
Hi Scott, just watched 2 of your solar videos and both have an audio buzz when you stop talking. Sounds like your camera's automatic gain is trying too hard to turn up the volume and only turning up the buzz. You can fix this one of two ways (1) by increasing the audio gain on your mic [receiver] so that your camera gets a higher input level, or (2) by turning off the automatic gain on the camera audio. Good luck. Nice videos.
Hey @CharlieBehrens thanks so much for the help. That buzz is annoying and my DJI Bluetooth setup is actually running right into my iPhone 14 Pro Max. Your comment kicked my butt into gear to dive in a bit more and I am testing out some adjustments to hopefully eliminate that buzz on the next video. Cheers 👍
That’s a grounding issue, proper grounding on both sides is necessary. The hum is stray frequency being picked up and by proper grounding will eliminate the hum. I’ve watched most of your mains wiring and appreciate your endeavor. Best wishes and 73s…
whats the longest distance you can be from the panel to the solar generator thanks (wire lenght)
I don't think there is a set limit but you will get some voltage drop if you extend 50 ft or more. If you need to run 100 ft or more consider 10 gauge wire to minimize voltage drop as compared to 12 gaguge.
@Eric-ii9ce And if that lets you get your batteries in a cool area, you'll probably make up for it. I currently have short cables and the batteries fans are running from the heat. Hopefully will have some longer ones next week!
In addition to the other replies, if running very long cable you always want to maximize the voltage and minimize the current, meaning that the solar panels should be put in series whenever possible. As high a voltage as the charge controller (etc) will allow. This will massively reduce the power loss over the cable.
For long runs you want at least three 12/24V panels in series or two residential panels in series for 60VDC or higher if you can swing it, DIY, for example.
Cabling is still limited by current depending on the AWG, pay attention to ampicity. But beyond this current limitation there is no real distance limitation other than what kind of power losses you are willing to tolerate.
I have a portable solar panel, 140 kw total power and a 300wh battery. Brand name is All Power, I think. What gauge wire should I use for an extension? I am thinking 12 gauge is big enough. Off the top of my head, I am not sure what gauge the wires are that came with panels.. Probably 12...
If you haven’t found an answer yet 10 gauge would be the wisest choice to use.
I couldn't figure out how to disconnect the MC4 connector. I tried every way I could see to make the tool fit. (It didn't come with instructions.) Thanks to this video, I now know the secret. 😅
Edit: Nope. I wasn't overlooking anything. My connectors apparently are not standard MC4 connectors. Not only does the tool definitely not fit, there is no way for ANY 1-piece tool to do the trick. There is no gap to allow the release fingers to contact abd sqeeze the locking tabs. Looks like it's time to source some genuine connectors.
The connectors on my China solar panels are not thee standard MC4 connectors either and are difficult to disconnect and cannot disconnect with the tool. I have to use a tiny pocket flat blade screwdriver to release the locking tabs then pull them apart.
I would solder the end after I crimped it to make sure I got the optimum electrical connection.
Surely one end of any cable would be male and the other female, right?
Correct 👍
Why are you demonstrating connecting a red positive wire to a black negative wire? .... that should never happen!
When you connect solar panels together in series, you connect the positive of one panel to the negative of another panel.... So it happens all the time!
You dont know what ur talking abt