I have 15.5x31's on the rear of my sand rail......... I learned the hard way to remove/install by hand......Great video packed with info!!! I'm on track to build a daily driver..... I've been obsessed since a kid. Your garage looks like VW heaven!!!
Ez , that is the same kit I ordered for my empi wheels I put on the bug, worked out perfectly, blue lock tight. You wont regret it. Great info . Buggy has been running awesome, have been having a ball with it. There isn't to many bugs down here still on the road. So that leeds to alot of people stop me and want to chat it up. Been having a good time with it. Thank you buddy
Well I was having cold sweats, ive been moving to another place and didnt have internet for three weeks , i even considered my phone but not much data too expensive in canada. Finally got it all squared away and that was a great treat for me to see u pop up. Always great to watch E.J I feel better now ha ha.
my daily drive bus is off the road whilst I rebuild the engine, your videos have been a great help, can't wait to get it going again for summer (in Australia) love the videos and the stories learning so much! Many thanks EZ
You know I’m addicted to the VW daily driver too. Looks like a great day for a Baja Drive. Great Info Video. Thanks for sharing and being there for us my friend. Take Care and enjoy your putt. BigW:-)
@@TheEZGZ Been traveling quite a bit giving lectures at conferences (actually it´s preaching, but preaching sound boring ; ) ). Just finishing sand rail #13, Í´ll post a vid of it soon.
Thank you for this video! Although I wish I saw it earlier! I had a wheel dang near fall off last night wheels driving because of those empi lug bolts, I lost 4 of the 5 bolts and stopped just before the whee came off and caused some serious damage! Here come new brake drums with studs and nuts for me!
Just had issues with the lug bolts on my buggies 10" rear. My fix was to press knerled studs on the drums. Counter sunk for the heads so they don't interrupt the break shoes. Makes me feel safe.
I have (still) two VW powered oval track cars I ran in the 80's. One based off of a '72 Kharman Ghia car that I didn't build, and a tube frame car made out of a front wreck dune buggy chassis. The '72 was built for different rules than I was running under, which were heavier and stock body and chassis. I bought it mid season finished the year as is. Over the winter, car went on a diet. Stock steel body gone. Aluminum replica Olds Firenza on. I was running 4 lug 13x10 racing wheels, IRS, disc brakes all around, Right side wheels as full offset as offered, lefts 0 offset, mounting area right in the middle. 26.5 or 23.5 tall Hoosier race tires. I didn't like the lug bolt set up as being too weak especially on the full offset wheels. Took off the rotors bored out the lug holes, pressed in some racing lug studs, and used 1" OD lug nuts. Newer tube frame car had 4 lug drums and swing axle in the rear. replaced the front from the roll cage forward, built a new front section narrowed for the Pinto/Mustang II front suspension, with a rack. Here's where it got fun. Like you mentioned, no different wheels! So we built custom upper A frames for the front using the ball joint end from a VW front axle, used VW disc with the bottom of the spindle hole reamed out to match the Ford ball joints.VW wheels a!l around on both cars. Gave the new car the lug stud treatment. Neat part is the new car could be retrofitted with a front engine, rear axle car if/when needed. But our local track never reopened. I did travel a little with the newer car so me. Was running well in the top 10 when I got caught up in a wreck with four laps to go first time out. Super slow in first practice. Super fast in the 2nd 50 lap feature on a ½ mile, once I got the new car handling bugs worked out. Never ran more than 25 laps before. Heck never ran a no BS flat out race car like that, or that track, or against those guys, or for that long . . . ever. Blew up the engine the next year at the same special event. Well sorry about the running on, but loved the last car for it's speed, loved the reskinned '72 for looks. Still have them. Last run 32 years ago. Thinking about getting a couple of stock engines with loud exhaust just to show them off at historic oval track shows. That's my story on what I did to make sure my wheels stayed on my car. It was a no brainer for us. That's what we had to do on our full sized race cars.
The last one was going to win me a championship . . . if the local track opened in '86. I was sure of it. I ran an 1835 cc, I don't see you mention them in your projects. Any reason?
Well Thanks for your comment and support. It never hurts to have someone looking over my shoulder who might see a big mistake. I sure won't claim I know it all. Like I mentioned in the video. The more often I go back to stock and the slower I drive putting around town the less I have to work on it and the more comfortable I become.
@@TheEZGZ yes it is true stock is all I've ever had. It is amazing how dependable those little cars are. That's why I love them so much. And thank you for your wisdom you have helped me and countless others.
I have those studs and nuts on my sand rail. They work great. Blue Loctite works fine. I've got a little secret. Elmers glue works great for thread locker
When I didn't have experience I threw caution to the wind and slept like a baby. Now at the first sign of trouble I start spending money and can't sleep at night. Go Figure... LOL
TheEZGZ honestly that’s usually how it goes. Seems like with some people the more you know the more your brain works and sometimes overthinks situations vs being completely ignorant to the situation 🤷♂️
Just a thought - In gear work we used to put a thin coat of white lead (try a very thin coat of stiff oil base paint) on one surface then press them together for a moment to see a print of the contact area. Just a thought as I said.
Some of my 5 wide brake drums have stripped threads. Went to junk yard and got Toyota studs & nuts. Was going to drill out drims and put in Toyota studs. Now I am second guessing that plan. ???
I'm having a similar problem. believe my empi disks are the same. Disc Brake Rotors With 5 X 205mm Vw Lug Bolt Pattern 12mm X 1.5 Threads & 5 X 205mm Vw Lug Bolt Pattern 14mm X 1.5 Threads.... going with studs this time!!!
They do give you alot of thread Depth on the rotors... mine stripped 1/4 inch in. because of those short stock 12×1.5 bolts. But not dead in the water at least.
Ya just got to do what ya got to do to keep things running. The main thing is. It's yours and you can keep and eye on it. I would never do some of the stuff I do and sell it or charge money and have folks drive it away.
Hi Greg hope all is well on you end. I have a rail buggy that I am looking at putting on 31/12.5 r15 wheels and agricultural tires on the rear. I currently have the 4 lug Nopi disk brake conversion kit on. My question is are the 4 lug wheels ok for this or should I use adapter and convert to the 5 lug wheel? Once again thank you for your videos, we mis seeing them on a regular basis. God Bless
No Adapters Period! The 4 lug wheels are made with thicker stronger centers to compensate as you will also note they have 14mm lug nuts instead of 12mm. Rail buggys are so much fun but many guys kill the power with large HEAVY new tires. Please, Please keep the wheel weight as low as possible. Be careful of your offset. Those wide wheels really add a lot of bearing load and stress the whole suspension. Consider going with a 8 inch wheel and big tire. It will save you weight and money. I go after hours to tire stores and steal them from there take off tires. So many 4x4 's are sold tires in sets of 4 and they only needed 2 so it's not hard to find two that match. Check the inside real good for punctures and mount them at home. A side note is that big tires are almost impossible to balance and although you will rarely of ever use stock 4th gear in your rail buggy with a largeass tire it is sometimes fun to scare yourself on a downhill stretch of dirt road Out of balance tires on a light railbuggy is nasty. We won't even bigin to talk about how worthless your brakes become with heavy wheels and tires. Even if you did decide to go with wheel adapters you they are only held on with the same 4 lugs. Cheap upgrade will be the 4 bolt disc brakes everyone sells that are pure junk but good enough for offroad toys.
Hello Sir, I have a 63 Baja I've been working on. It came with 3 studs installed in each of the hubs (the ones installed from the back side of the hub) and two of the stock lug bolts. One of the stock bolt holes is stripped out in the hub so I wanted to install another lug bolt or possibly just convert all of the holes to lug bolts. My question is do I need to drill out the old threads in the hub to install these lug bolts? They have splines at the base and are basically pressed in from the inside the hub. I don't want to mess up the holes but I don't have a drill press or a jig, just a simple hand drill. Any experience with this? Thanks, I enjoy watching your videos and learn a lot. I like doing things myself plus I live in a very small remote town and can't just take things in to get worked on.
If your talking 3 your working on the front hubs. Yes? So you still have 2 holes that are stock. No problem in my world your still on center???? Weld in the bad hole and by a stud with splines and press it in or drill it after you have the other two holes lined up. can't be that far off????? Figure it out or buy the hole assembley and pay your dues...... It's only your life and the folks you love that ride with you dahhhhhhhh !!!!!!!!
@@TheEZGZ good point! I got some extra studs that came with the car when I bought it, I'll take it apart tomorrow and get one put in there. I'm planning on installing disk brakes at some point anyway, if I mess it up I'll just have to get them sooner rather than later. Thanks for the tip on the book too, I found one online for 15 bucks!
Off the topic, IS IT NORMAL FOR THE COIL TO GET EXTREMELY HOT WHEN RUNNING A GENERATOR? , is that how those are supposed to run? Any help is appreciated
To hot to touch if it's been running a long time. Sometimes a failing coil will have symptom's of working ok on a cold start and running for a while. After it heats up the internal short will open and you will loose spark until it cools back down. Eventually it won't run at all. If you have decided to start changing parts until you find the problem that's not a bad place to start. Using a Ohm meter to test is a good idea as well. You will need to know what the manufacturer requires for you OHM reading. They might even have a free trouble shooting file at there web sight.
I'm guessing it will work ok in dirt but will totally throw the geometry off for street use. Most guy's go to an adjustable beam or use full size springs in the beam instead of the 1/2 width that comes stock.
Got s question, wouldn’t the center caps hide the 4 lug nuts on the adapter plate set up? .... here’s another question can we use 5 wide drums and pads/ hardware on the 68-79 pans?
Yes you could hide the nuts with a hub cap but something tells me the after market bolts and studs stick out to far. I miss match drums all the time. I had five hole drums on my IRS 4 hole rear so I could run all the different 5 hole rims I have. My car is lighter than stock and I am the only one that drives it. I would never tell anyone they should do it or can do it. I don't like to follow rules. I like to figure out things and take a chance now and then but I am very cautious until I know for certain it works. The factory made wide 5 front drums for the ball joint cars on years 66 and 67. Be sure to spin your wheels by hand to make sure nothing is catching on the internal parts. They made long and short swing axle cars. The long axle drum will fit on some IRS cars. You wouldn't believe the things I have done and seen on sand cars that work great for years ounce you figure it all out.
Hi EZGZ, I'm having some problems with my single weber 40 on my vw 1500, Its idle Ok, but when I start to rev it and let the aceleration in a low rpm it start to fail. the idle, the main and the fast aceleration are Ok, just the progression is kind fuzzy. Any idea what it is? My Idle jet is 70. I'm in the end of my project :D thank you for all the infos, I will make a video to thank you soon. Greatings from Brazil, sry my english.
Do you have the part number for the lug nuts i did disc break convertion and i have the stock wide 5 wheels and have the problems with the lug nuts i purchase with the wheel stud kit
You mean in the trunk? I pretty much keep things stock. On my sandcars and dune buggy's I will buy a basic wiring harness so the color and size is correct.
Trying to get some major house repairs done before the cold set in. I'm not going to spend time to vid all that. Most viewers just want VW for breakfast lunch and dinner. Stay tuned :-)
I think it is a interesting and extreme mod for engines used in extreme conditions such as short run WOT drag racing conditions. I believe that the stock oil system on a dual relief engine block was and still is adequate design and well engineered in totally stock circumstances. The only improvement needed IMHO is adding some type of external full flow Oil filter which is well known and well documented.
@@TheEZGZ There are several types of external filter systems which 1 do you recommend.CP performance has several different styles that is where i have been shopping for my parts.
Not knowing what kind and year of engine case you have I can only guess. This is the one I am using because I have the 3 bolt early style camshaft. www.cbperformance.com/product-p/1791.htm Caution: It won't work with all exhaust systems. Again I don't know your specifics. Do a search of my channel vids and you will see several about oil pumps and filters. I have something like 700 video's on U tube
EZGZ I love your channel. I’m new to the VW world and just purchased a 1974 beetle that needs some work. I built Chevy race engines in my younger years but I have no knowledge of the VW engines. Can you provide me with your contact information. I would like to pick your brain about building an engine.
This is my contact point. :-) Ask away I have 4 cars with lots of engine builds. My favorite is a stroked 2 liter type 1 base engine with stock valve heads. Extra Power, fare economy reliable as stock and keeps the heater boxes. What are you trying to do with your VW project.
TheEZGZ I am planning on making the bug into a Baja type bug. I want the engine to be very reliable. I’m in my 50s and will not be abusing the engine. I want to install a remote oil filter and oil cooler. I also would like to stay with a single carb.
I like the single carb idea. A lot less hassle. Since your more mature than many of my subs you might just be happy with a stock 1600DP with a Baja header exhaust and keep the heater boxes for those cold morning's. I'm really liking the 1776 with stock carb and STOCK camshaft. I am thinking of building one for my Baja
Hi ezgz I watched alot of your videos Keep them coming Is there anyway you can get me hooked up with vwdarrin Has some parts I maybe interested in Would be greatly appreciated
Thanks for all the great videos! Would like to chat with you about my build project if you have time. My username is Jetmech2002 at thesamba. Would like some suggestions to other forums as well. Kinda rough bunch at the fore mentioned site. Thanks again!
LOL... DID YOU DO A SEARCH BLAH BLAH BLAH. I don't have anything to do with any forum groups or clubs. I've got close to 700 vids posted. Most are about VW's. If you have questions ask away and I will try to answer or help :-)
I did the Hoover mods, and radiused the inside of the pump, and even the case, as my pick up was bad rusted and had to be replaced. I noticed that some use the front relief as a return from the full flow, and some put the oil temp sender where the relief cap would be. Do you need the case reliefs if you have a relief cover such as the Jaycee with the integrated relief? Also opened all the galleys to clean the donor cases. Have you replaced a pick up? if so, what did you put back in place of the aluminum cap in the case? Don't blame you a bit for staying away from the armchair experts. They gave me hell over there when I asked about you. I think you do a great job with you videos. I don't care, nor did I listen to their senseless rambling. Keep doing the vids. Many of us enjoy them!
Other than full flowing the case to add oil filter I leave it alone and run stock stuff as Gene Berg recommended. Coming from a offroad Sand dune background I wanted to keep the bottom of the engine clear of everything. As of yet I have not had issues with a oil pick up. I have not removed the plug until recently a buddy needed a oil pick up. I had a really hard time getting the oil pick up out of the case without damaging it. When I removed the plug I studied it closely it didn't seem like enough room to use a threaded plug???? It also seemed that under normal driving conditions the entire oil pickup would be submersed in oil especially under hard acceleration so I don't know why folks would have problems there. Like I have always said: Just because you see oil pressure on a gauge does not mean your pumping full flow of oil it just means you have pressure. It could just be foam and bubbles. I don't care what others say about my crazy vids. All my cars live and run and drive pretty darn good. The paint and interior look like crap :-) Most guys are worried about how there car's look and don't drive them every day like I do. I have never had issues with a new engine case. If I was going to build a new engine with high horsepower I would start with a new engine case with standard size bearings. Wrestling with old engine cases and modifying them does not make good sense IMHO Many who claim to be engine builders sell the engine and never see them again and don't really know how they are treated or how long they live. If you ever run across the 2 Gene Berg blue books buy them and read them. Even his old printed parts catologs have good info. www.geneberg.com/techtips.php
I have 15.5x31's on the rear of my sand rail......... I learned the hard way to remove/install by hand......Great video packed with info!!! I'm on track to build a daily driver..... I've been obsessed since a kid. Your garage looks like VW heaven!!!
Ez , that is the same kit I ordered for my empi wheels I put on the bug, worked out perfectly, blue lock tight. You wont regret it. Great info .
Buggy has been running awesome, have been having a ball with it. There isn't to many bugs down here still on the road. So that leeds to alot of people stop me and want to chat it up. Been having a good time with it.
Thank you buddy
I'm so happy your getting lot's of smiles to the miles :-)
Well I was having cold sweats, ive been moving to another place and didnt have internet for three weeks , i even considered my phone but not much data too expensive in canada.
Finally got it all squared away and that was a great treat for me to see u pop up. Always great to watch E.J
I feel better now ha ha.
Me to, Thanks for commenting and support
my daily drive bus is off the road whilst I rebuild the engine, your videos have been a great help, can't wait to get it going again for summer (in Australia) love the videos and the stories learning so much! Many thanks EZ
It's a pleasure to have you in my tribe. Hope you have a successful rebuild and get many smiles to the miles. :-)
9.38 ...... “It’s not the way I roll” 😂. I 👍 and subscribed
Thank you and welcome aboard the EZGZ cruiser. hehehe
You know I’m addicted to the VW daily driver too. Looks like a great day for a Baja Drive. Great Info Video. Thanks for sharing and being there for us my friend. Take Care and enjoy your putt. BigW:-)
The red loctite is brutal! Great Video as usual!! Thanks!!
I'm feeling blue works most of the time :-)
@@TheEZGZ I agree honestly. I only used the red over the years, very few times. Keep up the great vids EZ!
Therapy rides are better then meds any time....good to see you again.
What have you been up too? I saw that last mud festival you posted. I guess that's better than eating dust for miles. :-)
@@TheEZGZ Been traveling quite a bit giving lectures at conferences (actually it´s preaching, but preaching sound boring ; ) ). Just finishing sand rail #13, Í´ll post a vid of it soon.
Thank you for this video! Although I wish I saw it earlier! I had a wheel dang near fall off last night wheels driving because of those empi lug bolts, I lost 4 of the 5 bolts and stopped just before the whee came off and caused some serious damage! Here come new brake drums with studs and nuts for me!
OUch!
G'day Kevin from Australia.
Very informative video. ✌
Hey Kevin, Thanks for checking in
Thanks for a great video ! Also have a dunebuggy and baja they are great fun and always tooling with them .
Just had issues with the lug bolts on my buggies 10" rear. My fix was to press knerled studs on the drums. Counter sunk for the heads so they don't interrupt the break shoes. Makes me feel safe.
I think thats the best way to go
Hmm, I didn't have to counter sink mine and they were racing lugs with pretty big shoulders. Wonder what the difference was. Your 4 or 5 lug?
wide 5 if yours fit safely to your liking than go with it and check them now and then.
I have (still) two VW powered oval track cars I ran in the 80's. One based off of a '72 Kharman Ghia car that I didn't build, and a tube frame car made out of a front wreck dune buggy chassis. The '72 was built for different rules than I was running under, which were heavier and stock body and chassis. I bought it mid season finished the year as is. Over the winter, car went on a diet. Stock steel body gone. Aluminum replica Olds Firenza on. I was running 4 lug 13x10 racing wheels, IRS, disc brakes all around, Right side wheels as full offset as offered, lefts 0 offset, mounting area right in the middle. 26.5 or 23.5 tall Hoosier race tires. I didn't like the lug bolt set up as being too weak especially on the full offset wheels. Took off the rotors bored out the lug holes, pressed in some racing lug studs, and used 1" OD lug nuts.
Newer tube frame car had 4 lug drums and swing axle in the rear. replaced the front from the roll cage forward, built a new front section narrowed for the Pinto/Mustang II front suspension, with a rack.
Here's where it got fun. Like you mentioned, no different wheels! So we built custom upper A frames for the front using the ball joint end from a VW front axle, used VW disc with the bottom of the spindle hole reamed out to match the Ford ball joints.VW wheels a!l around on both cars. Gave the new car the lug stud treatment. Neat part is the new car could be retrofitted with a front engine, rear axle car if/when needed. But our local track never reopened. I did travel a little with the newer car so me. Was running well in the top 10 when I got caught up in a wreck with four laps to go first time out. Super slow in first practice. Super fast in the 2nd 50 lap feature on a ½ mile, once I got the new car handling bugs worked out. Never ran more than 25 laps before. Heck never ran a no BS flat out race car like that, or that track, or against those guys, or for that long . . . ever. Blew up the engine the next year at the same special event.
Well sorry about the running on, but loved the last car for it's speed, loved the reskinned '72 for looks. Still have them. Last run 32 years ago. Thinking about getting a couple of stock engines with loud exhaust just to show them off at historic oval track shows.
That's my story on what I did to make sure my wheels stayed on my car. It was a no brainer for us. That's what we had to do on our full sized race cars.
Wow! Thanks for sharing. I like the idea of getting them running again. Sounds like you had a great set up.
The last one was going to win me a championship . . . if the local track opened in '86. I was sure of it.
I ran an 1835 cc, I don't see you mention them in your projects. Any reason?
Ezgz thanks so much for the information. I knew it but it never hurts to be reminded keep it fresh in the old noggin.
Well Thanks for your comment and support. It never hurts to have someone looking over my shoulder who might see a big mistake. I sure won't claim I know it all. Like I mentioned in the video. The more often I go back to stock and the slower I drive putting around town the less I have to work on it and the more comfortable I become.
@@TheEZGZ yes it is true stock is all I've ever had. It is amazing how dependable those little cars are. That's why I love them so much. And thank you for your wisdom you have helped me and countless others.
I have those studs and nuts on my sand rail. They work great. Blue Loctite works fine. I've got a little secret. Elmers glue works great for thread locker
Who would of thunk it! Thanks for the tip! I might try some gorilla glue...
I don't like Gorilla glue because it foams up. But I do like Elmers.
Great video. Thank you for sharing your knowledge, I always learn a few things from you!
When I didn't have experience I threw caution to the wind and slept like a baby. Now at the first sign of trouble I start spending money and can't sleep at night. Go Figure... LOL
TheEZGZ honestly that’s usually how it goes. Seems like with some people the more you know the more your brain works and sometimes overthinks situations vs being completely ignorant to the situation 🤷♂️
Just a thought - In gear work we used to put a thin coat of white lead (try a very thin coat of stiff oil base paint) on one surface then press them together for a moment to see a print of the contact area. Just a thought as I said.
I think the biggest problem with the empi is they dont have a shoulder.
I like those 4lug black wheels
They are heavy but built to take the pain.
right on Greg!
:-)
Some of my 5 wide brake drums have stripped threads. Went to junk yard and got Toyota studs & nuts. Was going to drill out drims and put in Toyota studs. Now I am
second guessing that plan. ???
We should get together and have a look at it sometime
I'm surprised the EMPI stuff isn't better quality.
Most of there stuff works pretty good
I dont want to reiterate, ,but very good video i learned alot thanks ez..always a great video from you.
I always appreciate your comments and support my VW friend :-)
I'm using those style of lug nuts on a set of Porsche Boxster wheels. No issues so far.
Thanks for the reassurance now I can sleep tonight. :-)
another great video!!!!
I'm having a similar problem. believe my empi disks are the same. Disc Brake Rotors With 5 X 205mm Vw Lug Bolt Pattern 12mm X 1.5 Threads & 5 X 205mm Vw Lug Bolt Pattern 14mm X 1.5 Threads.... going with studs this time!!!
I'm really starting to hate these heavy empi disc brakes.
@@TheEZGZ U did say that other customized items u backdated to stock are working better. Lol
Well I thank you on a side note EZ... have been restoring a sandrail for near a year now and your info has been invaluable!!!
They do give you alot of thread Depth on the rotors... mine stripped 1/4 inch in. because of those short stock 12×1.5 bolts. But not dead in the water at least.
Ya just got to do what ya got to do to keep things running. The main thing is. It's yours and you can keep and eye on it. I would never do some of the stuff I do and sell it or charge money and have folks drive it away.
Great info. 👍
Just trying to share to make it easier for the rest of you.
Hi Greg hope all is well on you end. I have a rail buggy that I am looking at putting on 31/12.5 r15 wheels and agricultural tires on the rear. I currently have the 4 lug Nopi disk brake conversion kit on. My question is are the 4 lug wheels ok for this or should I use adapter and convert to the 5 lug wheel? Once again thank you for your videos, we mis seeing them on a regular basis.
God Bless
No Adapters Period! The 4 lug wheels are made with thicker stronger centers to compensate as you will also note they have 14mm lug nuts instead of 12mm.
Rail buggys are so much fun but many guys kill the power with large HEAVY new tires. Please, Please keep the wheel weight as low as possible. Be careful of your offset. Those wide wheels really add a lot of bearing load and stress the whole suspension. Consider going with a 8 inch wheel and big tire. It will save you weight and money. I go after hours to tire stores and steal them from there take off tires. So many 4x4 's are sold tires in sets of 4 and they only needed 2 so it's not hard to find two that match. Check the inside real good for punctures and mount them at home. A side note is that big tires are almost impossible to balance and although you will rarely of ever use stock 4th gear in your rail buggy with a largeass tire it is sometimes fun to scare yourself on a downhill stretch of dirt road Out of balance tires on a light railbuggy is nasty. We won't even bigin to talk about how worthless your brakes become with heavy wheels and tires. Even if you did decide to go with wheel adapters you they are only held on with the same 4 lugs. Cheap upgrade will be the 4 bolt disc brakes everyone sells that are pure junk but good enough for offroad toys.
Hello Sir, I have a 63 Baja I've been working on. It came with 3 studs installed in each of the hubs (the ones installed from the back side of the hub) and two of the stock lug bolts. One of the stock bolt holes is stripped out in the hub so I wanted to install another lug bolt or possibly just convert all of the holes to lug bolts.
My question is do I need to drill out the old threads in the hub to install these lug bolts? They have splines at the base and are basically pressed in from the inside the hub. I don't want to mess up the holes but I don't have a drill press or a jig, just a simple hand drill.
Any experience with this?
Thanks, I enjoy watching your videos and learn a lot. I like doing things myself plus I live in a very small remote town and can't just take things in to get worked on.
If your talking 3 your working on the front hubs. Yes? So you still have 2 holes that are stock. No problem in my world your still on center???? Weld in the bad hole and by a stud with splines and press it in or drill it after you have the other two holes lined up. can't be that far off????? Figure it out or buy the hole assembley and pay your dues...... It's only your life and the folks you love that ride with you dahhhhhhhh !!!!!!!!
@@TheEZGZ good point! I got some extra studs that came with the car when I bought it, I'll take it apart tomorrow and get one put in there.
I'm planning on installing disk brakes at some point anyway, if I mess it up I'll just have to get them sooner rather than later.
Thanks for the tip on the book too, I found one online for 15 bucks!
Off the topic, IS IT NORMAL FOR THE COIL TO GET EXTREMELY HOT WHEN RUNNING A GENERATOR? , is that how those are supposed to run? Any help is appreciated
To hot to touch if it's been running a long time. Sometimes a failing coil will have symptom's of working ok on a cold start and running for a while. After it heats up the internal short will open and you will loose spark until it cools back down. Eventually it won't run at all. If you have decided to start changing parts until you find the problem that's not a bad place to start. Using a Ohm meter to test is a good idea as well. You will need to know what the manufacturer requires for you OHM reading. They might even have a free trouble shooting file at there web sight.
What is your opinion of raised 3inch welded ball joint spindles to lift a bug for trail riding and street use?
I'm guessing it will work ok in dirt but will totally throw the geometry off for street use. Most guy's go to an adjustable beam or use full size springs in the beam instead of the 1/2 width that comes stock.
Not crazy , that's nuts.
Got s question, wouldn’t the center caps hide the 4 lug nuts on the adapter plate set up? .... here’s another question can we use 5 wide drums and pads/ hardware on the 68-79 pans?
Just my 2 cents, but I suggest don't do it . . . Do you want to do it right . . . or do it over, while fixing the other damage you'll have?
Yes you could hide the nuts with a hub cap but something tells me the after market bolts and studs stick out to far.
I miss match drums all the time. I had five hole drums on my IRS 4 hole rear so I could run all the different 5 hole rims I have. My car is lighter than stock and I am the only one that drives it. I would never tell anyone they should do it or can do it. I don't like to follow rules. I like to figure out things and take a chance now and then but I am very cautious until I know for certain it works.
The factory made wide 5 front drums for the ball joint cars on years 66 and 67. Be sure to spin your wheels by hand to make sure nothing is catching on the internal parts.
They made long and short swing axle cars. The long axle drum will fit on some IRS cars.
You wouldn't believe the things I have done and seen on sand cars that work great for years ounce you figure it all out.
Hi EZGZ, I'm having some problems with my single weber 40 on my vw 1500, Its idle Ok, but when I start to rev it and let the aceleration in a low rpm it start to fail. the idle, the main and the fast aceleration are Ok, just the progression is kind fuzzy. Any idea what it is? My Idle jet is 70. I'm in the end of my project :D thank you for all the infos, I will make a video to thank you soon. Greatings from Brazil, sry my english.
The carb is to big for a 1500 even with 28 venturi's. www.redlineweber.com/html/Tech/idf_adjustment_controls.htm
Do you have the part number for the lug nuts i did disc break convertion and i have the stock wide 5 wheels and have the problems with the lug nuts i purchase with the wheel stud kit
here is the kit I bought www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=ACC%2DC10%2D6670
very helpful video
Do you have any under dash wiring videos
You mean in the trunk? I pretty much keep things stock. On my sandcars and dune buggy's I will buy a basic wiring harness so the color and size is correct.
The Great EZ!thanks!
EZGZ where are you....? I'm needing another vid fix. : )
Trying to get some major house repairs done before the cold set in.
I'm not going to spend time to vid all that. Most viewers just want VW for breakfast lunch and dinner. Stay tuned :-)
EZ what can you tell us about the hoover mods
I think it is a interesting and extreme mod for engines used in extreme conditions such as short run WOT drag racing conditions. I believe that the stock oil system on a dual relief engine block was and still is adequate design and well engineered in totally stock circumstances. The only improvement needed IMHO is adding some type of external full flow Oil filter which is well known and well documented.
@@TheEZGZ There are several types of external filter systems which 1 do you recommend.CP performance has several different styles that is where i have been shopping for my parts.
Not knowing what kind and year of engine case you have I can only guess. This is the one I am using because I have the 3 bolt early style camshaft. www.cbperformance.com/product-p/1791.htm Caution: It won't work with all exhaust systems. Again I don't know your specifics. Do a search of my channel vids and you will see several about oil pumps and filters. I have something like 700 video's on U tube
Must be a European thing, my Mercedes lugs are similar to my beetles
I think some of the Honda cars use them as well. Have a great day!
EZGZ I love your channel. I’m new to the VW world and just purchased a 1974 beetle that needs some work. I built Chevy race engines in my younger years but I have no knowledge of the VW engines. Can you provide me with your contact information. I would like to pick your brain about building an engine.
This is my contact point. :-) Ask away I have 4 cars with lots of engine builds. My favorite is a stroked 2 liter type 1 base engine with stock valve heads. Extra Power, fare economy reliable as stock and keeps the heater boxes. What are you trying to do with your VW project.
TheEZGZ I am planning on making the bug into a Baja type bug. I want the engine to be very reliable. I’m in my 50s and will not be abusing the engine. I want to install a remote oil filter and oil cooler. I also would like to stay with a single carb.
I like the single carb idea. A lot less hassle. Since your more mature than many of my subs you might just be happy with a stock 1600DP with a Baja header exhaust and keep the heater boxes for those cold morning's. I'm really liking the 1776 with stock carb and STOCK camshaft. I am thinking of building one for my Baja
Hi ezgz
I watched alot of your videos
Keep them coming
Is there anyway you can get me hooked up with vwdarrin
Has some parts I maybe interested in
Would be greatly appreciated
Unfortunately that door is closed to me
Thanks for all the great videos! Would like to chat with you about my build project if you have time. My username is Jetmech2002 at thesamba. Would like some suggestions to other forums as well. Kinda rough bunch at the fore mentioned site. Thanks again!
LOL... DID YOU DO A SEARCH BLAH BLAH BLAH. I don't have anything to do with any forum groups or clubs. I've got close to 700 vids posted. Most are about VW's. If you have questions ask away and I will try to answer or help :-)
I did the Hoover mods, and radiused the inside of the pump, and even the case, as my pick up was bad rusted and had to be replaced. I noticed that some use the front relief as a return from the full flow, and some put the oil temp sender where the relief cap would be. Do you need the case reliefs if you have a relief cover such as the Jaycee with the integrated relief? Also opened all the galleys to clean the donor cases. Have you replaced a pick up? if so, what did you put back in place of the aluminum cap in the case? Don't blame you a bit for staying away from the armchair experts. They gave me hell over there when I asked about you. I think you do a great job with you videos. I don't care, nor did I listen to their senseless rambling. Keep doing the vids. Many of us enjoy them!
Other than full flowing the case to add oil filter I leave it alone and run stock stuff as Gene Berg recommended. Coming from a offroad Sand dune background I wanted to keep the bottom of the engine clear of everything. As of yet I have not had issues with a oil pick up. I have not removed the plug until recently a buddy needed a oil pick up. I had a really hard time getting the oil pick up out of the case without damaging it. When I removed the plug I studied it closely it didn't seem like enough room to use a threaded plug???? It also seemed that under normal driving conditions the entire oil pickup would be submersed in oil especially under hard acceleration so I don't know why folks would have problems there. Like I have always said: Just because you see oil pressure on a gauge does not mean your pumping full flow of oil it just means you have pressure. It could just be foam and bubbles.
I don't care what others say about my crazy vids. All my cars live and run and drive pretty darn good. The paint and interior look like crap :-) Most guys are worried about how there car's look and don't drive them every day like I do.
I have never had issues with a new engine case. If I was going to build a new engine with high horsepower I would start with a new engine case with standard size bearings. Wrestling with old engine cases and modifying them does not make good sense IMHO Many who claim to be engine builders sell the engine and never see them again and don't really know how they are treated or how long they live. If you ever run across the 2 Gene Berg blue books buy them and read them. Even his old printed parts catologs have good info. www.geneberg.com/techtips.php
More Good Reading www.aircooled.net/vw-technical-articles/