We get timing correlation codes on our 2010 Land Rover LR4 5.0 V8, so we tear it down to fix the issue without removing the a/c condenser. P0016 & P0018
This is a great video - thank you so much for taking the time to put this together and attention to detail. The camera work is superb, your assistant did a great job of focusing in on the details and making sure the camera is focused when appropriate. I have this job in my future and found the video super helpful. There are a lot of things to remember so I like the idea of the bolts going back in when appropriate; I'm also thinking to number connections (write 1 and 1 for example on either side of a hose) and then storing all the parts in the order in which they are removed... I also need to do front and rear crossover pipes at the same time! Anyway, THANK YOU.
Thanks for your comment, I'll pass them onto my daughters as they helped with the recording. Definitely good idea's you have about disassembly. I've done the front & rear crossover pipes on both my daughters and my wife's LR4's, those video's will be coming out shortly. Thanks for watching & the comment!
@@mountainviewsgarage - just saw the follow-up video, I'm looking forward to watching it and learning more. Also, I'm excited to watch the crossover pipe videos in due-course. Thank you.
Thank you so much! I think your videos are the best timing chain videos on youtube. I just got a 2011 LR4 with 148k miles, no chain noises, the chain is very tight on the driver side. The previous owner just replaced valve covers and the full cooling system a couple months ago so I really hope I can get away with not doing timing chain. I'm planning of using an endoscope camera to check the slack on the passenger side chain, if that's tight I'm thinking of doing an oil additive flush (liqui moly pro line engine flush) perhaps 1/4 of the dose at a time since there was a report someone clogged up his LR4 oil passage by using seafoam or so. I know the older chain tensioner and guide design was blamed but I think the whole timing chain issue was caused by long oil interval causing sludges in the VVT system, stretch the chain and eventually kill the tensioner due to excessive movements. I'd love to hear your thoughts on my plan & assessments. Thank you in advance!
Thank you! I agree with the extended oil change intervals and poor quality oil being the biggest cause. I don’t think I myself would use the oil additive. A good quality oil will remove deposits slowly with a good filter. If you’re not hearing any timing chain noise and not getting any engine codes, you should be good. This LR4 had about 142,000 miles on it with no noises. We only started getting the timing codes when the weather turned cold. My daughters has 200,000 miles and no codes and no sludging, but I could hear slight chain noise.
Are P0016 and P0018 codes both intake sides of the cam? I just did the same job on a 2011 LR4 as preventative maintenance, although I didn't disassemble and clean the variators as they were fairly clean/no sludge and wasn't aware of the importance of cleaning them. Now getting P0016 and P0018 which wasn't the case prior to starting the job. Tore it down again and timing marks are correct and guides fit as they should, but still getting those codes with restricted performance mode. Initially the car ran fine, but after a week it started to have a slightly rough idle. Thinking it must be the variators, but don't know if the issue is intake or exhaust.
Yes P0016 and P0018 are for both intake camshafts. I'm in the process of doing my daughters and had a similar issue, where no codes prior to timing job, no signs of sludge but I did clean all the variators. But still had a P0016 code after putting it back together. I'm in the process of replacing the variator as I've tested everything else. Good luck!
You are correct, I must have pulled that code from another project I'm working on. Thanks for pointing it out, I've corrected the title and details. Sorry about that.
With a correlation code on variable valve timing, it typically points to timing chain stretch or variator issue. The Jaguar/Land Rover 5.0 also had a design flaw where the steel tensioner would wear on the aluminum guide. So it’s best to update the parts as well.
This is a great video - thank you so much for taking the time to put this together and attention to detail. The camera work is superb, your assistant did a great job of focusing in on the details and making sure the camera is focused when appropriate. I have this job in my future and found the video super helpful. There are a lot of things to remember so I like the idea of the bolts going back in when appropriate; I'm also thinking to number connections (write 1 and 1 for example on either side of a hose) and then storing all the parts in the order in which they are removed... I also need to do front and rear crossover pipes at the same time! Anyway, THANK YOU.
Thanks for your comment, I'll pass them onto my daughters as they helped with the recording. Definitely good idea's you have about disassembly. I've done the front & rear crossover pipes on both my daughters and my wife's LR4's, those video's will be coming out shortly. Thanks for watching & the comment!
@@mountainviewsgarage - just saw the follow-up video, I'm looking forward to watching it and learning more. Also, I'm excited to watch the crossover pipe videos in due-course. Thank you.
Thank you so much! I think your videos are the best timing chain videos on youtube. I just got a 2011 LR4 with 148k miles, no chain noises, the chain is very tight on the driver side. The previous owner just replaced valve covers and the full cooling system a couple months ago so I really hope I can get away with not doing timing chain. I'm planning of using an endoscope camera to check the slack on the passenger side chain, if that's tight I'm thinking of doing an oil additive flush (liqui moly pro line engine flush) perhaps 1/4 of the dose at a time since there was a report someone clogged up his LR4 oil passage by using seafoam or so. I know the older chain tensioner and guide design was blamed but I think the whole timing chain issue was caused by long oil interval causing sludges in the VVT system, stretch the chain and eventually kill the tensioner due to excessive movements. I'd love to hear your thoughts on my plan & assessments. Thank you in advance!
Thank you! I agree with the extended oil change intervals and poor quality oil being the biggest cause. I don’t think I myself would use the oil additive. A good quality oil will remove deposits slowly with a good filter. If you’re not hearing any timing chain noise and not getting any engine codes, you should be good. This LR4 had about 142,000 miles on it with no noises. We only started getting the timing codes when the weather turned cold. My daughters has 200,000 miles and no codes and no sludging, but I could hear slight chain noise.
By far the best video on the timing chain swap 👍👍👍
Thank you!
Thank you sir!! Great job explaining things!
Thank you and thanks for watching!
Are P0016 and P0018 codes both intake sides of the cam? I just did the same job on a 2011 LR4 as preventative maintenance, although I didn't disassemble and clean the variators as they were fairly clean/no sludge and wasn't aware of the importance of cleaning them. Now getting P0016 and P0018 which wasn't the case prior to starting the job. Tore it down again and timing marks are correct and guides fit as they should, but still getting those codes with restricted performance mode. Initially the car ran fine, but after a week it started to have a slightly rough idle. Thinking it must be the variators, but don't know if the issue is intake or exhaust.
Yes P0016 and P0018 are for both intake camshafts. I'm in the process of doing my daughters and had a similar issue, where no codes prior to timing job, no signs of sludge but I did clean all the variators. But still had a P0016 code after putting it back together. I'm in the process of replacing the variator as I've tested everything else. Good luck!
@@mountainviewsgarage Thanks for the input!
P0341? On the screen at 0:56, I don't see P0341.
You are correct, I must have pulled that code from another project I'm working on. Thanks for pointing it out, I've corrected the title and details. Sorry about that.
is it several possibilities that you have to eliminate like some other codes? Or having the code reader help pinpoint the issue?
With a correlation code on variable valve timing, it typically points to timing chain stretch or variator issue. The Jaguar/Land Rover 5.0 also had a design flaw where the steel tensioner would wear on the aluminum guide. So it’s best to update the parts as well.
Do they make a steel guide to replace the aluminum guide as well?
new part has a steel button in place of the aluminum one that wore off
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