It is a 3/4 npt on the head. The discharge side of the fitting is a 3/4 flare. You need 5/8 copper type L of K to flare. The OD of 5/8 copper type L or K is 3/4. So again the flare or compression fitting(s) you would need downstream are 3/4. Also, the flare is SAE flare which is the common 45 degrees, not the jic flare which is 37 degrees. I know that you can buy a cheap flare at Home Depot, or better yet call a buddy that is in the trade to flare it for you. A good HVAC supply should have these flare fittings in stock or get them next day. Just plan a day in advance and get he correct fittings and do not force the incorrect fitting on.
It's always nice to see comments from someone who knows what they are talking about! Thanks! If what I cobbled together ever starts to fail, I'll rework the plumbing. So far, it's been holding up well with no leaks. Thanks again!
Might it be possible for you to dumb it down a little more for the fitting challenged? Do you have an example of the type of fitting you're talking about? I'm helping my father-in-law cobble together an air compressor. He's a semi-retired paint and body man who wants to be able to work at home in his garage. He's using an older 80-gallon Ingersoll Rand tank, a 5hp motor, and this HF pump. I've been googling for the better part of a day trying to find a solution to the fitting problem. I'm wanting to use a 3/4" copper line with compression fittings on both ends like you suggest. The less time I can spend driving around to local suppliers trying to find what I need, the better. Thanks for your insight!
Actually, I misunderstood what you were saying. I ended up taking the flare nut from the pump to a local air compressor place. I had them flare a 3’ copper 3/4 tube into the nut. I also purchased a new check valve along with a 90-degree elbow and a 3/4 compression fitting. It’s an older Ingersoll Rand upright 80 gallon tank, so it should be a straight shot into the tank from the pump with only a slight curve or two. Should move plenty of air with the 3/4 line. Thanks! Your original comment was instrumental in getting me pointed in the right direction.
@@JonnyCrash Sorry about this timing. I have not been here for awhile. Having the 5/8" copper tubing (which is actually 3/4" OD) really gets a bit confusing when mating with flared or compression fittings. It always is good to have a tradesman for a buddy!! Glad this helped.
I have had my hf compressor for 8 or 10 years , replaced the reed valves a couple years ago . Works well , if this one fails I would buy another . Your build is impressive.
I just installed this pump on my 1988 crafsman 20 gallon tank and it keeps up with all of my air tools, even the blowgun. I did a 40 minute break in with the pressure line off.
Is that what I should do with my 2 cylinder air compressor motor? It's a "speedy" air comp. Motor v twin I was told it was a 2 stage I paid about 90 bucks on ebay for it because it's a little old
I installed the same one to my old 60 gallon Ingersol Rand standup compressor that was 25+ years old - I checked my Motor RPM, and ordered the correct size dual belt pulley to fit the motor shaft, paying careful attention to Pump RPM as per the book (I think there was a chart to calculate pulleys and motor speeds vs Pump speed) Works like a champ just like yours- I dig your Home made jobbie- looks cool
@@brokeanbrokengarage8494 IDK from dead empty, but before when I was using air with the stock parallel-twin Aluminum garbage pump, when it cycled on to refill the tank it took 3-5 mins, now it takes MAYBE a minute? Really keeps up with Bead blasting much better now!
I just bought one of these , so far so good , pumps up fast and is fairly quite for its size , open the box and check to just be sure the brass nuts on it ! It's called Japanese industrial thread , and their hard to get , some say a 3/4 refrigeration will work , but it's best to just be sure to factory nut on there .
I hope this video helps me out! Just got a compressor come in the shop , single stage 10.8CFM @100 psi pump that went out and wants a rebuild. I recommend to retrofit a double stage pump on the 5.5hp engine. We’ll see what the customer says.
0.236gal = 1lb propane Try 23.6gal = 100lb propane tank 😉 Nice homemade compressor setup! Cheaper than buying a dedicated air compressor tank which cost significantly more than a decommissioned propane tank which is rated for a max pressure of 480psig 😊
Nice looking setup, but that copper line to the left of your radiator looks to be almost completely collapsed at the "C" shaped bend; it must be a bottleneck for airflow. Oh, and according to review on Harbor Freight site, the proper fitting can be sourced from your local HVAC guy or supply house, and is called a -12 JIC fitting, as may be a helpful FYI for your viewers. Cool build!
Looks good. Could you change the diameter of the copper pipe to 3/4. I want to say going to a hydraulic hose shop you might find the bigger fittings. Had you thought of mounting the compressor head on rubber mounts. I had pretty good luck doing that.
My 5 hp harbor freight compressor pump. Is near 18.5 cfm @ 125 psi. Pared with a 2.75 inch motor pulley. It Takes 4:55 min from 0 to 125 psi in a 80 gallon tank.
I have built my own setup as well using this pump. 5 HP Leeson motor and my own after-cooler similar to yours using an automotive AC condenser with a water trap/filter/drain at the output before the tank, and 120V fan mounted to it. Airflow is all the same direction as the compressor so hot air gets away from the unit. How has it lasted for you? Mine is using a 5" drive pulley which calculates to about 1200 RPM. Heads stay cool so far at 205-F. 60 Gallon tank fills fast. I could not find a 4.5" diameter pulley in stock hence the 1200 RPM vs the rated 1050. Being a HF unit I worry I might kill it. It sounds great, runs smooth. etc. Any advice? Thanks again!
I snagged one in the open box section. Be careful when changing the oil (not that getting used oil dirty is terrible) when removing the drain plug paint chipped off everywhere and some went into the drain hole. I had to blow it all out but you probably dont want that sticking to the side of a piston.
That's 32 millimeters 1.5 millimeter threat to threat distance they sell special hoses to connect them to check valve with 3/4 on the other side. I'm so smart becouse Iv been in the same situation. And my first solusion was to bought 33x1.5 nut and tig weld the 3/4 fitting to it. I find out this hose latter. But hej if it works it works
This is exactly what I want to build, same size Propane tank, but gasoline engine. I am going to look at your channel to see if you have a full build, discussing the rational for the choice of components. Thank you for sharing.
If you moved the check-valve to before the intercooler, you'd lose less air for the restart. It will get hotter though so it's a bit of a trade-off. I've worked with compressors for many years and it really depends on the type of check-valve you're using. If it can hane high temperatures, it'll be better closer to the head for less loss.
Working on building a gas powered compressor with two of these pumps, thanks for the tip on the fitting I’ve been searching for a while trying to find something to easily work without needing to redesign the wheel. I’ve got a compressor in the shop I used for sandblasting. Switching it to a 3/4” hard line feed T’d off at the compressor outlet worked wonders for it. I don’t know if your setup would allow but just sharing what worked for me. Thanks again.
If you haven't seen this video yet, it may help. th-cam.com/video/avCIvBewO-0/w-d-xo.html It's pretty simple, the compressor head connects to the radiator, the radiator then connects to the dryer/filter. I have my head relief valve in-between the dryer/filter and the tank but it may make more sense to have it between head and the radiator. I also listed the parts I used in that videos description.
1D10CRACY I just watched it and subscribed , I watched your tire chain one too . Do u like the straps ? I’ve heard some people don’t . Did u weird the u Chanel to the frame ? Great videos and thanks for your response . Todd
Locking washers are OK, however, Nylon Locking Nuts are far superior in that they are used in Aircraft and are spec'd for that application due to the constant vibrations of a flying machine. Used in conjunction with a locking washer I doubt if they would ever come loose. So much for Peace of Mind. I used all locking nylon nuts in my compressor build. Typically those chinesium crapolium parts are what is known as a BSPT (British Standard Pipe Thread) which has a 5 degree pitch difference from NPT (60 DEGREE THREAD PITCH) and in the overall length of the threads end up being about 1 thread longer per inch. (Which as you clearly stated it does not properly seal, and is an accurate statement). Is that a check valve after your unloader piping? (Great Idea) And the SAE Flare and JIC Flares are different as well in the thread pitch. I learned the hard way thru trial and error but was able to take all the wrong stuff back for a full refund. (sigh)
Great build, I’m a little disappointed in my lack of forethought with my setup. No one is going to debate the performance of these pumps. The longevity is the issue. So, it comes down to the HF paradox. How often do you use it? Are you relying on it to make a living? can you write off the expense? Do you care about the moral aspect of buying cheap Chinese over real American. Different strokes for different folks.
I will have to check into this, my compressor on my welding truck doesn't keep up when I have to carbon arc/ air arc/ gouge whichever one prefers to call it.
Got a 26 gallon 5 hp air compressor but all you have to do is take the old air pump off and put the new one on my dad thinks that I would need to get another part after the air pump. I wouldn't know how to exactly install this by myself though.
What type of fitting is needed to connect to the output? With the help of my local shop, they figured out it is a 30 degree JIS (Japanese Industrial System) fitting. I needed several fittings to get from the compressor to my tank but it starts with part number 9229-12-12 (3/4 JIS to 3/4 JIC). From there, several more readily available fittings were needed to get to my copper line. You're not going to find this fitting at lowes or HD so you'll need a specialty shop or order it online.
you can adjust cut off pressure at 140 psi, then the cut on will be around 110 psi to 120 psi, cuz the pump max pressure is 145 psi, adjust at screw on the on off switch, also increase the motor pulley to increase pump speed, since you have a cooler that is not a issued for heat build up, i did my on a gas motor with this pump with no issued, if the output coil has color change then you should decrease the pressure. but my doesnt overheat on the coil, cuz i put the coil between the pump and flywheel using a 3/4 flare convert to 1/2 compression, also you can setup your cooler behind the flywheel and let it draw the heat
I do not and I can't seem to find it on the Harbor Freight website either. I am wondering if they have stopped selling them! I did find one that looks exactly like the one I have on Amazon though! amzn.to/2rBhABK
I ran my intake through wall to outside really quiets it down and I get only fresh air,,, I did similar but used a 25 foot roll of 1/2 inch copper tubing between the compressor pump and tank, l hardly get any condensation in tank .
I have 2oil free units I’m stripping the pump section off of and turning into (oil) units.i have the same pump you have and another 2.5 hp motor I need another small pump for but also have 3 tanks(96)gals I’m gonna mount all 3 horizontal and the power train on top of the top 2 tanks.i found out my 6 hp motor is actually only about 4.3 hp and 14 amps or being 220v 28 amps but I always assumed it was 6hp.how many amps is your 5 hp motor?I think I can still run the pump but it may be close..I really like how quick yours filled but I think one more thing I’ll do is mount a fan for cooling just for longevity sake
I did not, but traditionally you should run them for 20 mins or so with no load before using them. This is probably specific per manufacturer and typically posted in the instructions.
i have a IR single stage with a 5 hp motor 175 psi i need to replace the pump its about had it i have been thinking the same thing this how i found your site so you thank i could put the same pump has a replacement ? i had seen the same pump you got from harbor fright ?. thanks
my friends compressor has a hose coming from each air filter down to a cone reoilable filter kids put on their Hondas , It really quietens that sucking noise down ,, you can stand next to it and talk,, and he swapped to Amsoil oil as he stores it outside
dude, do you havea video building your compressor??? im in the process on making one but i dont know anything about compressors, i dont understand why u have a radiator in it , you said you want dry air, and on the botton you have a drain valve, auto drain... it sure is a great compressor build, even the timer, if you have a video building it or explaining it, it would be awesome to share the link, i want all the features needed to be confident that i have a good compressor
You mention using it for sand blasting. Which media (mesh/micron/type) do you use? Which nozzle size do you use? I would like to upload a video (some day) of my home made setup. I bought a used V twin last january with no data plate on it :(. I am running it with my B7001 Kubota and it struggles a bit to keep it going over 90psi on the 790pto rpm speed. I installed a 120litre reservoir. I calculated it is a 33+CFM pump and the nozzle I was adviced to get was the #2 (1/8") which i think is a bit narrow. I still need to fine tune it.
What is your drive pulley and are you using a standard air compressor motor or a farm duty rated I'm trying to build my own but have very limited knowledge
The romex wire will eventually fail. Use SO cable. Romex solid wire will crack due to fatigue eventually, high resistance- bad things can happen. Like motor failures and fires.
Harbor Freight is a large chain store in the states that is know for selling tools and other hardware at an extremely cheap price. Sometimes this price also reflects quality, though sometimes you find a diamond in the rough.
Looks cool, BUT what is going on with your Camera. I feel drunk lol. Its got some auto focus or bokeh affects going on you shop looks like its blowing in the wind haha
TH-cam use to have stabilization built into their studio. When used it it had this effect at times. Today I have stabilization built into the camera and it doesn't look like I've been up all night drinking. :D
Just finished my composer 5 hp 229 muted added a belt tensioner workgrated then seasides no oil these apparently come empty check YOUR oil three years to get to this point and I have gorging if some one has a extra compressor please sent it to me !
That sounds really fast on the RPM's.. Must be 3650 rpm's? Probably should be 1750 on the motor.. Might survive though... If not, that is probably what caused the problem..
Very good points and something people should consider when taking a project like this on! The original motor was only a 3hp 1750rpm. The new motor is 5hp, 3650rpm, not my preferred choice, but it's what I had on hand. I compensated by using a smaller pulley, the manual gives a math formula to help you determine pulley size. At 3650rpms I should be using a 4.4" pulley and I am using a 4". The pump technically is running a tad under speed, hopefully this helps make it last longer.
@@1D10CRACY I see that.. Running at 1007rpms, rated for 1050rpms.. Yep, I think you are where you need to be.. Usually, video makes things look like they are running slower.. Guess it is the frame rate.. That one looked like it was getting ready to sprout wings.. Ha.. I had to buy a new head years ago.. Got a 5hp 20cfm at 145 from Eaton Compressor.. About double the HF price.. This time, about $650 for a 42cfm at 175.. 12 years on this compressor head.. I'm happy for the use it gets.. I leave it on 24/7/365, and it's outside (covered) and very humid.. I bleed water from the bottom of the tank 2-3 times per year.. (Especially before winter.. Ha..) Funny though.. Don't have much trouble with moisture at the end of the hoses.. I think the volume keeps the air cooler, and don't have hot air running through the hoses to condensate.. I do notice some moisture after blasting on one of my hoses that runs directly from the tank vs from shop air away from the tank.. I have a 80 gallon tank and do a fair amount of blasting.. Takes a while to fill up the tank.. Used to have an old Wayne Compressor head.. Never could get any specs on it, but, had to have been near 40cfm.. That little setup you have is perfect.. 2 minute fill time.. That makes an even faster usual recovery time.. Congrats..
i know this is old, so possibly a long shot, but do you (or anyone) have suggestions on the following?: 1. Cheapest radiator that will actually work, and work good? i see people using oil coolers, is that a correct way/thing to do? and 2. cheapest, most reliable, 5hp motor available? i am aware if you buy an ebay 5HP "SPL" motor for $120 that the SPL portion actually stands for "NOT F*CKING 5HP." So, no need to explain that. LOL. If anyone reads this, and actually offers useful information, THANKS!! Edited: For grammar corrections./ Punctuation errors.
Just a follow up. It's now been a few years and the compressor head is holding up incredibly well! It's well used and no issues to date. As much as I media blast, I'm actually very surprised. Seems to be a solid compressor!
800 your not going to be sand blasting my old craftman 5.5 hp was first one i bought pos oillless. Then i have harbor freight 120 psi. It ok not enough for. Air tools vary long then my dewalt 160 max psi is good but still id rather yours
It is a 3/4 npt on the head. The discharge side of the fitting is a 3/4 flare. You need 5/8 copper type L of K to flare. The OD of 5/8 copper type L or K is 3/4. So again the flare or compression fitting(s) you would need downstream are 3/4. Also, the flare is SAE flare which is the common 45 degrees, not the jic flare which is 37 degrees. I know that you can buy a cheap flare at Home Depot, or better yet call a buddy that is in the trade to flare it for you. A good HVAC supply should have these flare fittings in stock or get them next day. Just plan a day in advance and get he correct fittings and do not force the incorrect fitting on.
It's always nice to see comments from someone who knows what they are talking about! Thanks! If what I cobbled together ever starts to fail, I'll rework the plumbing. So far, it's been holding up well with no leaks. Thanks again!
@@1D10CRACY You are welcome. It really is a good "cheap" compressor.
Might it be possible for you to dumb it down a little more for the fitting challenged? Do you have an example of the type of fitting you're talking about?
I'm helping my father-in-law cobble together an air compressor. He's a semi-retired paint and body man who wants to be able to work at home in his garage. He's using an older 80-gallon Ingersoll Rand tank, a 5hp motor, and this HF pump. I've been googling for the better part of a day trying to find a solution to the fitting problem. I'm wanting to use a 3/4" copper line with compression fittings on both ends like you suggest.
The less time I can spend driving around to local suppliers trying to find what I need, the better. Thanks for your insight!
Actually, I misunderstood what you were saying. I ended up taking the flare nut from the pump to a local air compressor place. I had them flare a 3’ copper 3/4 tube into the nut. I also purchased a new check valve along with a 90-degree elbow and a 3/4 compression fitting. It’s an older Ingersoll Rand upright 80 gallon tank, so it should be a straight shot into the tank from the pump with only a slight curve or two. Should move plenty of air with the 3/4 line. Thanks! Your original comment was instrumental in getting me pointed in the right direction.
@@JonnyCrash Sorry about this timing. I have not been here for awhile. Having the 5/8" copper tubing (which is actually 3/4" OD) really gets a bit confusing when mating with flared or compression fittings. It always is good to have a tradesman for a buddy!! Glad this helped.
I've never seen someone so excited about an air compressor before. I love it.
im restoring mine
I have the same pump on a 200 gallon tank. Takes 10 minutes to go from zero to 140 psi. Damn good pump
I have had my hf compressor for 8 or 10 years , replaced the reed valves a couple years ago . Works well , if this one fails I would buy another . Your build is impressive.
Thank you for the video. I just bought the same 5 hp Central Pneumatic pump to build my first compressor.
Noted a lot of pointers.
This is really good information, Thank you. Pure American ingenuity!! ...Awesomeness
I’ve installed the other pump Harbor Freight sells on several compressors. They work great. Customers are happy. Good value.
one of the best compressors i have ever seen.. love the creativity
I have a 5hp HF compressed that I got in 1990. Still working great
That works well! I’m building a gas powered compressor now.
I just installed this pump on my 1988 crafsman 20 gallon tank and it keeps up with all of my air tools, even the blowgun. I did a 40 minute break in with the pressure line off.
Is that what I should do with my 2 cylinder air compressor motor? It's a "speedy" air comp. Motor v twin I was told it was a 2 stage I paid about 90 bucks on ebay for it because it's a little old
I installed the same one to my old 60 gallon Ingersol Rand standup compressor that was 25+ years old -
I checked my Motor RPM, and ordered the correct size dual belt pulley to fit the motor shaft, paying careful attention to Pump RPM as per the book (I think there was a chart to calculate pulleys and motor speeds vs Pump speed)
Works like a champ just like yours- I dig your Home made jobbie- looks cool
How long dose it take to fill your 60 gallon
@@brokeanbrokengarage8494 IDK from dead empty, but before when I was using air with the stock parallel-twin Aluminum garbage pump, when it cycled on to refill the tank it took 3-5 mins, now it takes MAYBE a minute? Really keeps up with Bead blasting much better now!
I just bought one of these , so far so good , pumps up fast and is fairly quite for its size , open the box and check to just be sure the brass nuts on it ! It's called Japanese industrial thread , and their hard to get , some say a 3/4 refrigeration will work , but it's best to just be sure to factory nut on there .
Mine is still working as it did the day I started using it, and I use it a lot! The 3/4" fip fitting is still hanging in there!
I hope this video helps me out!
Just got a compressor come in the shop , single stage 10.8CFM @100 psi pump that went out and wants a rebuild.
I recommend to retrofit a double stage pump on the 5.5hp engine. We’ll see what the customer says.
That filled up quick! Impressive
0.236gal = 1lb propane
Try 23.6gal = 100lb propane tank 😉
Nice homemade compressor setup! Cheaper than buying a dedicated air compressor tank which cost significantly more than a decommissioned propane tank which is rated for a max pressure of 480psig 😊
Nice looking setup, but that copper line to the left of your radiator looks to be almost completely collapsed at the "C" shaped bend; it must be a bottleneck for airflow. Oh, and according to review on Harbor Freight site, the proper fitting can be sourced from your local HVAC guy or supply house, and is called a -12 JIC fitting, as may be a helpful FYI for your viewers. Cool build!
Looks good.
Could you change the diameter of the copper pipe to 3/4. I want to say going to a hydraulic hose shop you might find the bigger fittings. Had you thought of mounting the compressor head on rubber mounts. I had pretty good luck doing that.
I like it! I have a 100lbs propane tank just laying around😂
My 5 hp harbor freight compressor pump. Is near 18.5 cfm @ 125 psi. Pared with a 2.75 inch motor pulley. It Takes 4:55 min from 0 to 125 psi in a 80 gallon tank.
I have built my own setup as well using this pump. 5 HP Leeson motor and my own after-cooler similar to yours using an automotive AC condenser with a water trap/filter/drain at the output before the tank, and 120V fan mounted to it. Airflow is all the same direction as the compressor so hot air gets away from the unit. How has it lasted for you? Mine is using a 5" drive pulley which calculates to about 1200 RPM. Heads stay cool so far at 205-F. 60 Gallon tank fills fast. I could not find a 4.5" diameter pulley in stock hence the 1200 RPM vs the rated 1050. Being a HF unit I worry I might kill it. It sounds great, runs smooth. etc. Any advice? Thanks again!
Still running? Any update? I am considering the same setup you have. Curious if the HF head has held together at 1200 RPM vs. the spec 1050 RPM?
I snagged one in the open box section. Be careful when changing the oil (not that getting used oil dirty is terrible) when removing the drain plug paint chipped off everywhere and some went into the drain hole. I had to blow it all out but you probably dont want that sticking to the side of a piston.
After a couple runs tighten down the flywheel on the new head, I've heard of some coming off.
Yep, you got it right, I found you looking to solve that exact issue with the stupid fitting it came with
That's 32 millimeters 1.5 millimeter threat to threat distance they sell special hoses to connect them to check valve with 3/4 on the other side. I'm so smart becouse Iv been in the same situation. And my first solusion was to bought 33x1.5 nut and tig weld the 3/4 fitting to it. I find out this hose latter. But hej if it works it works
This is exactly what I want to build, same size Propane tank, but gasoline engine. I am going to look at your channel to see if you have a full build, discussing the rational for the choice of components. Thank you for sharing.
If you moved the check-valve to before the intercooler, you'd lose less air for the restart. It will get hotter though so it's a bit of a trade-off. I've worked with compressors for many years and it really depends on the type of check-valve you're using. If it can hane high temperatures, it'll be better closer to the head for less loss.
I have the same motor on a 60 gallon and it fill quick. and I only run one belt . way would you want to run 2 ?
Working on building a gas powered compressor with two of these pumps, thanks for the tip on the fitting I’ve been searching for a while trying to find something to easily work without needing to redesign the wheel. I’ve got a compressor in the shop I used for sandblasting. Switching it to a 3/4” hard line feed T’d off at the compressor outlet worked wonders for it. I don’t know if your setup would allow but just sharing what worked for me. Thanks again.
Can you show how the radiator / air dryer attached to the unit ? I’m going to build one and want to know more about it
If you haven't seen this video yet, it may help. th-cam.com/video/avCIvBewO-0/w-d-xo.html It's pretty simple, the compressor head connects to the radiator, the radiator then connects to the dryer/filter. I have my head relief valve in-between the dryer/filter and the tank but it may make more sense to have it between head and the radiator. I also listed the parts I used in that videos description.
1D10CRACY I just watched it and subscribed , I watched your tire chain one too . Do u like the straps ? I’ve heard some people don’t . Did u weird the u Chanel to the frame ? Great videos and thanks for your response . Todd
Locking washers are OK, however, Nylon Locking Nuts are far superior in that they are used in Aircraft and are spec'd for that application due to the constant vibrations of a flying machine. Used in conjunction with a locking washer I doubt if they would ever come loose. So much for Peace of Mind. I used all locking nylon nuts in my compressor build. Typically those chinesium crapolium parts are what is known as a BSPT (British Standard Pipe Thread) which has a 5 degree pitch difference from NPT (60 DEGREE THREAD PITCH) and in the overall length of the threads end up being about 1 thread longer per inch. (Which as you clearly stated it does not properly seal, and is an accurate statement). Is that a check valve after your unloader piping? (Great Idea) And the SAE Flare and JIC Flares are different as well in the thread pitch. I learned the hard way thru trial and error but was able to take all the wrong stuff back for a full refund. (sigh)
Awesome! Thanks so much for showing that.
Great build, I’m a little disappointed in my lack of forethought with my setup. No one is going to debate the performance of these pumps. The longevity is the issue. So, it comes down to the HF paradox. How often do you use it? Are you relying on it to make a living? can you write off the expense? Do you care about the moral aspect of buying cheap Chinese over real American. Different strokes for different folks.
I replaced my Shops with this one. That was six years ago. Still runs great. Used all day everyday.
I will have to check into this, my compressor on my welding truck doesn't keep up when I have to carbon arc/ air arc/ gouge whichever one prefers to call it.
Did you ever get the double pulley I need to find one so I can put mine together
I haven't as of yet! Forgot all about it till I read your post! It's been running on a single belt since I put it together!
I got mine at Zoro tools.
now the bolts can fall completely out.
My old one is all cast steel, it's very good.
Just Wow!!the air fill so fast is it a single phase connection or three phase??
it's a flare fitting on the output, you need convert flare fitting to compression fitting
Thanks for the tip! If it ever gives me an issue and starts leaking, I will consider this!
Got a 26 gallon 5 hp air compressor but all you have to do is take the old air pump off and put the new one on my dad thinks that I would need to get another part after the air pump. I wouldn't know how to exactly install this by myself though.
What is the size of your pulley on the motor
Lockwashers prevent the nuts from shaking loose, or if you're brash, you could try lock nuts.
Replacing discharge reed valves on mine right now. Will probably put some anti corrosion substance on them as that's what probably killed one.
What's the part number for the condenser plz
What type of fitting is needed to connect to the output? With the help of my local shop, they figured out it is a 30 degree JIS (Japanese Industrial System) fitting. I needed several fittings to get from the compressor to my tank but it starts with part number 9229-12-12 (3/4 JIS to 3/4 JIC). From there, several more readily available fittings were needed to get to my copper line. You're not going to find this fitting at lowes or HD so you'll need a specialty shop or order it online.
At 1:50 I show the bag for the fitting I used. It came from Home Depot and hasn't leaked since I used it.
Good job 🤜🤛
Would that pump be sufficient enough for a 120 gallon tank? Obviously with the 5hp motor as well
I get it, is it better or worse than the compressor head you had previously
It's faster to fill the tank for sure. I use it a lot and haven't had any issues yet. It seems to be a good one.
also run the copper coil behind the compressor flywheel then to the cooler
you can adjust cut off pressure at 140 psi, then the cut on will be around 110 psi to 120 psi, cuz the pump max pressure is 145 psi, adjust at screw on the on off switch, also increase the motor pulley to increase pump speed, since you have a cooler that is not a issued for heat build up, i did my on a gas motor with this pump with no issued, if the output coil has color change then you should decrease the pressure. but my doesnt overheat on the coil, cuz i put the coil between the pump and flywheel using a 3/4 flare convert to 1/2 compression, also you can setup your cooler behind the flywheel and let it draw the heat
It's different I like it.
Do you have a part number for the air tank purge valve from harbor freight?
I do not and I can't seem to find it on the Harbor Freight website either. I am wondering if they have stopped selling them! I did find one that looks exactly like the one I have on Amazon though! amzn.to/2rBhABK
I ran my intake through wall to outside really quiets it down and I get only fresh air,,, I did similar but used a 25 foot roll of 1/2 inch copper tubing between the compressor pump and tank, l hardly get any condensation in tank .
This is a great idea! I'm thinking of moving mine to a shed that sits about 20 feet behind the shop, mainly for space.
What is the small copper tube for?
Love it ❤😊
Any idea what the diameter of the pulley is on that new compressor head?
its 14.5" OD
What is the red check valve on the top ?
I have 2oil free units I’m stripping the pump section off of and turning into (oil) units.i have the same pump you have and another 2.5 hp motor I need another small pump for but also have 3 tanks(96)gals I’m gonna mount all 3 horizontal and the power train on top of the top 2 tanks.i found out my 6 hp motor is actually only about 4.3 hp and 14 amps or being 220v 28 amps but I always assumed it was 6hp.how many amps is your 5 hp motor?I think I can still run the pump but it may be close..I really like how quick yours filled but I think one more thing I’ll do is mount a fan for cooling just for longevity sake
Is this air compressor clockwise rotation or counter clockwise rotation. A dodget matter
This is awesome!
Not sure if I missed it but what size belt are you using? Thanks.
did you break in the compressor first before putting a load on it ?
I did not, but traditionally you should run them for 20 mins or so with no load before using them. This is probably specific per manufacturer and typically posted in the instructions.
You have 1/2 O.D. pipe, which would be 3/8" correct?
nice set up
What size motor pulley should I run with a 14 in pump pulley?
I also have the same pump, and I got a 4.25 pulley for my 5hp motor
i have a IR single stage with a 5 hp motor 175 psi i need to replace the pump its about had it
i have been thinking the same thing this how i found your site so you thank i could put the same pump
has a replacement ? i had seen the same pump you got from harbor fright ?. thanks
my friends compressor has a hose coming from each air filter down to a cone reoilable filter kids put on their Hondas , It really quietens that sucking noise down ,, you can stand next to it and talk,, and he swapped to Amsoil oil as he stores it outside
has the 1/2 cut down any after time ?
Can you tell me about the cooler you're using? And do you have a fan on it or is it necessary?
dude, do you havea video building your compressor??? im in the process on making one but i dont know anything about compressors, i dont understand why u have a radiator in it , you said you want dry air, and on the botton you have a drain valve, auto drain... it sure is a great compressor build, even the timer, if you have a video building it or explaining it, it would be awesome to share the link, i want all the features needed to be confident that i have a good compressor
You mention using it for sand blasting. Which media (mesh/micron/type) do you use? Which nozzle size do you use? I would like to upload a video (some day) of my home made setup. I bought a used V twin last january with no data plate on it :(. I am running it with my B7001 Kubota and it struggles a bit to keep it going over 90psi on the 790pto rpm speed. I installed a 120litre reservoir. I calculated it is a 33+CFM pump and the nozzle I was adviced to get was the #2 (1/8") which i think is a bit narrow. I still need to fine tune it.
What is your drive pulley and are you using a standard air compressor motor or a farm duty rated I'm trying to build my own but have very limited knowledge
Can you tell me which electric motor you have matched with the pump
Its a 3600 rpm 220v 5hp motor, I'd rather see an 1800 rpm, but it was all I had. that is one reason I have the small pulley on it.
How did you wire that spring timer? You are running 220v I assume? Was switch rated for 5hp motor?
Same way you do them for hot water tanks
No fan on the after cooler?!?
velocity matters
Nope, other than it is sitting inline with the fan built into the motor. Everything works great, not sure I would change anything at this point.
Ive ben wanting to build one somthing like this ive got old tanks and few under 600$ compresors and they arent varry good i want a big boy
Puma. Has a 40 5hp. 2 stage comp ..pumps up to 175 psi..have u seen any reveiws? On it it gk s a little over a 1000 buck.s..
The romex wire will eventually fail. Use SO cable. Romex solid wire will crack due to fatigue eventually, high resistance- bad things can happen. Like motor failures and fires.
For sure I should have used the proper wire and the original intentions were to replace it. 10 years later and here we are. Maybe someday. ;)
You murdered the old compressor. It was rated for up to 2hp motor.. around 10 cfm
What type of oul did you use for the air pump?
I used oil made for air compressors, not sure of the brand but I purchased it from Menards.
What size motor pulley twin belt do u recommend for a 5hp motor
Like the size of pulley on motor
What size shld i buy?
Its a 4.5" pulley with a motor at 3450rpm
What cooler is that?
Oil cooler from Amazon
Is there only 1 store to buy stuff harbor somthing? We can bÿy stuff in any DIY STORE
Harbor Freight is a large chain store in the states that is know for selling tools and other hardware at an extremely cheap price. Sometimes this price also reflects quality, though sometimes you find a diamond in the rough.
Looks cool, BUT what is going on with your Camera. I feel drunk lol. Its got some auto focus or bokeh affects going on you shop looks like its blowing in the wind haha
TH-cam use to have stabilization built into their studio. When used it it had this effect at times. Today I have stabilization built into the camera and it doesn't look like I've been up all night drinking. :D
@1D10CRACY ok neat 👌
Is your motor 120v. Or 240?
240
That works sweet
Electric motor wich or phase hp?
5ph, nothing else really matters.
What is the cfm rating on that pump?
17.3 CFM @ 40 PSI, 15.2 CFM @ 90 PSI
Just finished my composer 5 hp 229 muted added a belt tensioner workgrated then seasides no oil these apparently come empty check YOUR oil three years to get to this point and I have gorging if some one has a extra compressor please sent it to me !
Do you think is really a 5hp pump?
Want to buy one
It needs at least 3.5 kilowatt something like 5 hp not any less
Motor a 220v pr 110?
5HP, not sure if you can get a 5HP on 110 or not. Mine is 220.
That sounds really fast on the RPM's.. Must be 3650 rpm's? Probably should be 1750 on the motor.. Might survive though... If not, that is probably what caused the problem..
Very good points and something people should consider when taking a project like this on! The original motor was only a 3hp 1750rpm. The new motor is 5hp, 3650rpm, not my preferred choice, but it's what I had on hand. I compensated by using a smaller pulley, the manual gives a math formula to help you determine pulley size. At 3650rpms I should be using a 4.4" pulley and I am using a 4". The pump technically is running a tad under speed, hopefully this helps make it last longer.
@@1D10CRACY I see that.. Running at 1007rpms, rated for 1050rpms.. Yep, I think you are where you need to be.. Usually, video makes things look like they are running slower.. Guess it is the frame rate.. That one looked like it was getting ready to sprout wings.. Ha.. I had to buy a new head years ago.. Got a 5hp 20cfm at 145 from Eaton Compressor.. About double the HF price.. This time, about $650 for a 42cfm at 175.. 12 years on this compressor head.. I'm happy for the use it gets.. I leave it on 24/7/365, and it's outside (covered) and very humid.. I bleed water from the bottom of the tank 2-3 times per year.. (Especially before winter.. Ha..) Funny though.. Don't have much trouble with moisture at the end of the hoses.. I think the volume keeps the air cooler, and don't have hot air running through the hoses to condensate..
I do notice some moisture after blasting on one of my hoses that runs directly from the tank vs from shop air away from the tank..
I have a 80 gallon tank and do a fair amount of blasting.. Takes a while to fill up the tank.. Used to have an old Wayne Compressor head.. Never could get any specs on it, but, had to have been near 40cfm.. That little setup you have is perfect.. 2 minute fill time.. That makes an even faster usual recovery time.. Congrats..
Yes very wise
It looks like they used a water heater in that creation.
Either that or they used a propane tank!
2:05 to full the tank but your tank look very big for 27 gallon
Pretty quick
That took too long to fill with that motor compressor combo. Maybe your lines are too small.
Na, it fills pretty quick!
Take the OLD ONE apart so we can see what happened inside.
That's a whole lot of shaken going on.
i know this is old, so possibly a long shot, but do you (or anyone) have suggestions on the following?: 1. Cheapest radiator that will actually work, and work good? i see people using oil coolers, is that a correct way/thing to do? and 2. cheapest, most reliable, 5hp motor available? i am aware if you buy an ebay 5HP "SPL" motor for $120 that the SPL portion actually stands for "NOT F*CKING 5HP." So, no need to explain that. LOL. If anyone reads this, and actually offers useful information, THANKS!!
Edited: For grammar corrections./ Punctuation errors.
mine lasted 90 days and one week ,no parts available, JUNK
I've used the crap out of mine! Love it! Would buy another one in a heart beat!
Is the new head still working well?
@@FE428Power yes and I can get parts
Just a follow up. It's now been a few years and the compressor head is holding up incredibly well! It's well used and no issues to date. As much as I media blast, I'm actually very surprised. Seems to be a solid compressor!
800 your not going to be sand blasting my old craftman 5.5 hp was first one i bought pos oillless. Then i have harbor freight 120 psi. It ok not enough for. Air tools vary long then my dewalt 160 max psi is good but still id rather yours