Nice job, Walt. Real creative thinking and well done on getting it out. I just hope you went back in with WellHose DIY Drop Pipe. You would never have hassles like this again !
@@afleetcommand your good to go140 foot well and its down 130 your suppose to keep the pump 10 to 20 feet off the bottom from the start. Whoever put the pump in to begin with put the pump rite in the soot and crack which is probly the reason you had the problem to start. I own a well company in Mass and have been doing well work more than half my life. You did do a good job tho on what you did. I hope you used poly pipe The DIY Drop pipe Carlos mentioned. When using that pipe always warm the pipe with a torch when making any connections and always double clamp it. Also inside the well always put a check valve and bma on the pump and a bma in the pitless adapter. Never use pvc or nylon fittings in the well. They can brake and you will end up having a problem again.
@@afleetcommand what did you use to pull on the cable? I have the same situation as you and the well driller wants $18 grand in 2024. I have a 71hp tractor with front end loader, thinking on pulling the cable strait up with the front end loader. Good job, a country boy can survive without getting screwed 😆
Walt, Been in your shoes. 45 year old Pump burned up and rusted to the 4" steel casing. Couldn't break off pipe at pump. Drilled new 60' well 5' away with 6" PVC casing. Fought biological iron for a couple months. Was $6000 pump and all. It was January like in your case. Took a couple days from first call until complete. Then I had to fix the ruts in the yard that summer even though they used mud mats.
+w8ye but one of things un avoidable.. same with us. A local well driller has the old 5inch tooling and we are discussing the pro's and con's of having him try and get that well cleaned out....at least to where the pump is jammed 142 ft down...
+Sheru Lion Drilled 5' away so as to not hit the original 5" steel casing that couldn't be removed yet to still get into the same water vein. It worked!
+Sheru Lion The problem is getting the big drilling rig to the well location. So the new well was drilled 5' from the old well in the direction from which the 55,000 lb drilling rig could approach the well location and still be level.
I had exactly the same problem on a well about 150 feet deep. i.e. pump stuck on bottom, I pulled so hard on the rope attached to the pump and on the Alkathene (black plastic 1/14 in I.D pipe) that it broke about 15 feet down from the surface. I solved it as follows. I snagged the top end of the pipe with a device that i made wit a piece of suitably sized steel piped with projections at top and bottom end such that it was easy to slide down but when pulled by the attached rope it gripped the black pipe hard. i then tied that pipe holder arrangement to a nearby post. Then I got 150 feet of wire rope of about 1/2 inch diam. and welded on a piece of steel (cut down angle iron). so one end of the steel rope is attached strongly to the 6 inch piece of angle and on the other end i welded a miniature circular saw (which has its own shaft) of the type used by craftsmen. I passed this assembly down inside the black alkathene 1 1/4 i.d diam pipe all the way to the pump. i pulled up a few feet to make sure i was not inside the pump and the connected to my electric drill. In the case of the wire that i had, i had to spin the drill in reverse so as not to unwind the strands in the steel rope. after about 3 minutes of spinning, the black 1 1/2 inch pipe broke free and came up easily . The circular saw that i used was a little big so i had to grind it down crudely with an angle grinder to be a slightly loos fit inside the black plastic pipe When you make the holder gadget for the mini saw to attach to the wire rope, make sure that the weight is off balance, which will cause the saw to be thrown against the pipe wall. Thats why i used approx 1" in angle iron and ground off the outside corner and cut away some of the side wall as appropriate, rather than us a pipe or flat steel. The unbalance in the weight as the cable spins is what pushes the saw up against the inside of the plastic pipe. Boy was I relieved when i saw that sucker coming up out of the well. It worked so well and so fast that i am going to keep the wire rope with the saw attached forever in my shed because this is second well that I lost to this problem in 20 years!
Glad you got her out in the end! Dad pushed a submersible pump down to 50ft and she got jammed. He pulled up on the wires but snapper her off. Now, once this NY snow and ice thaws a bit, I'll try to retrieve the pump. I'm thinking, could I be lucky enough to drop some pipe down with a male fitting, rotate and catch the female fitting in the center? That would be the best. If not, things could get trickier and I'll need to try your lasso idea. Also wonder if a jammed pump below the water line can be knocked down ever farther and a new pump run above it. Not sure the fill rate would keep up though.
You can push one down. Wells fill from water leaching in the sides not from the the bottom so won't effect the fill rate at all. BUT if the PVC is still attached as mine was, there is no room in the well for another system. I was able to USE that pcv to guide the lasso . From your post, if the "threads" are exposed the premise is the pvc tubing is not there and no a hinderance to sliding a new pump down if you can't retrieve yours I guess, but that has to be a last resort. Problem I would be more concerned about is if your well has collapsed some. If so trying to ram the pump down may exacerbate an already bad issues and the depth of the well will defined by where the pump decides to jam :(. And worse yet should that happen, now a well driller can't go and clean out or run a drill down to freshen up and possibly salvage that well. If u can, get that pump up and out is the message or try and hire some one who can. If that's impossible then maybe its a "zero minus zero = zero" situation anyway, can't make it any worse. As a LAST option maybe try and drive that pump deep enough to use that well again. Problem I see is if it didn't drop right to the bottom ... something is wrong in the well walls like a cave in :( Rather see it out and have a well driller see if they can clean out that well.
I like the idea man good thinking
Glad to see you got the pipe out. Gotta feel pretty good that with abit of hard work and patiences you saved yourself 8 grand.
Good job getting that sucker out. Next time install with WellHose DIY Drop Pipe. No more hassles.
wrong
Awesome, im glad to see it worked.
Oh man, i got the same problem. going to work on it this weekend. I hoping your idea works for me... better than the 8 grand like you say.
Fingers crossed!
Nice job, Walt. Real creative thinking and well done on getting it out. I just hope you went back in with WellHose DIY Drop Pipe. You would never have hassles like this again !
Still working...fingers crossed!
@@afleetcommand your good to go140 foot well and its down 130 your suppose to keep the pump 10 to 20 feet off the bottom from the start. Whoever put the pump in to begin with put the pump rite in the soot and crack which is probly the reason you had the problem to start. I own a well company in Mass and have been doing well work more than half my life. You did do a good job tho on what you did. I hope you used poly pipe The DIY Drop pipe Carlos mentioned. When using that pipe always warm the pipe with a torch when making any connections and always double clamp it. Also inside the well always put a check valve and bma on the pump and a bma in the pitless adapter. Never use pvc or nylon fittings in the well. They can brake and you will end up having a problem again.
@@afleetcommand what did you use to pull on the cable? I have the same situation as you and the well driller wants $18 grand in 2024. I have a 71hp tractor with front end loader, thinking on pulling the cable strait up with the front end loader.
Good job, a country boy can survive without getting screwed 😆
Nice work. I knew u would get it out. Wouldn't make it too long on the farm if you couldn't do some backwoods engineering.
Walt, Been in your shoes. 45 year old Pump burned up and rusted to the 4" steel casing. Couldn't break off pipe at pump. Drilled new 60' well 5' away with 6" PVC casing. Fought biological iron for a couple months. Was $6000 pump and all. It was January like in your case. Took a couple days from first call until complete. Then I had to fix the ruts in the yard that summer even though they used mud mats.
+w8ye but one of things un avoidable.. same with us. A local well driller has the old 5inch tooling and we are discussing the pro's and con's of having him try and get that well cleaned out....at least to where the pump is jammed 142 ft down...
+w8ye 5' away(why)??...plz ans.
+Sheru Lion
Drilled 5' away so as to not hit the original 5" steel casing that couldn't be removed yet to still get into the same water vein. It worked!
+w8ye thanks for ur reply..one question more 5' away in any direction of old well?
+Sheru Lion The problem is getting the big drilling rig to the well location. So the new well was drilled 5' from the old well in the direction from which the 55,000 lb drilling rig could approach the well location and still be level.
I had exactly the same problem on a well about 150 feet deep. i.e. pump stuck on bottom, I pulled so hard on the rope attached to the pump and on the Alkathene (black plastic 1/14 in I.D pipe) that it broke about 15 feet down from the surface. I solved it as follows. I snagged the top end of the pipe with a device that i made wit a piece of suitably sized steel piped with projections at top and bottom end such that it was easy to slide down but when pulled by the attached rope it gripped the black pipe hard. i then tied that pipe holder arrangement to a nearby post. Then I got 150 feet of wire rope of about 1/2 inch diam. and welded on a piece of steel (cut down angle iron). so one end of the steel rope is attached strongly to the 6 inch piece of angle and on the other end i welded a miniature circular saw (which has its own shaft) of the type used by craftsmen. I passed this assembly down inside the black alkathene 1 1/4 i.d diam pipe all the way to the pump. i pulled up a few feet to make sure i was not inside the pump and the connected to my electric drill. In the case of the wire that i had, i had to spin the drill in reverse so as not to unwind the strands in the steel rope. after about 3 minutes of spinning, the black 1 1/2 inch pipe broke free and came up easily . The circular saw that i used was a little big so i had to grind it down crudely with an angle grinder to be a slightly loos fit inside the black plastic pipe
When you make the holder gadget for the mini saw to attach to the wire rope, make sure that the weight is off balance, which will cause the saw to be thrown against the pipe wall. Thats why i used approx 1" in angle iron and ground off the outside corner and cut away some of the side wall as appropriate, rather than us a pipe or flat steel. The unbalance in the weight as the cable spins is what pushes the saw up against the inside of the plastic pipe. Boy was I relieved when i saw that sucker coming up out of the well. It worked so well and so fast that i am going to keep the wire rope with the saw attached forever in my shed because this is second well that I lost to this problem in 20 years!
you show include a photo of the jig you made.
How did it work out with the new pump?
still going strong
Glad you got her out in the end! Dad pushed a submersible pump down to 50ft and she got jammed. He pulled up on the wires but snapper her off. Now, once this NY snow and ice thaws a bit, I'll try to retrieve the pump. I'm thinking, could I be lucky enough to drop some pipe down with a male fitting, rotate and catch the female fitting in the center? That would be the best. If not, things could get trickier and I'll need to try your lasso idea. Also wonder if a jammed pump below the water line can be knocked down ever farther and a new pump run above it. Not sure the fill rate would keep up though.
You can push one down. Wells fill from water leaching in the sides not from the the bottom so won't effect the fill rate at all. BUT if the PVC is still attached as mine was, there is no room in the well for another system. I was able to USE that pcv to guide the lasso . From your post, if the "threads" are exposed the premise is the pvc tubing is not there and no a hinderance to sliding a new pump down if you can't retrieve yours I guess, but that has to be a last resort. Problem I would be more concerned about is if your well has collapsed some. If so trying to ram the pump down may exacerbate an already bad issues and the depth of the well will defined by where the pump decides to jam :(. And worse yet should that happen, now a well driller can't go and clean out or run a drill down to freshen up and possibly salvage that well. If u can, get that pump up and out is the message or try and hire some one who can. If that's impossible then maybe its a "zero minus zero = zero" situation anyway, can't make it any worse. As a LAST option maybe try and drive that pump deep enough to use that well again. Problem I see is if it didn't drop right to the bottom ... something is wrong in the well walls like a cave in :( Rather see it out and have a well driller see if they can clean out that well.
Nice -👍
You could just use the Fetch from thefetch.net
Fetch tool wouldn’t work on black Polly pipe if the pump is stuck.
muriatic acid