Thanks for PT 2 I just did this but I had my skid out to service and track out for studding so i cut the rivets off in the tunnel and the heads came with the mount. This eliminated the need to remove many of the parts that you did to get at the two rivets .I looked at using rivets during reassembly but see where Polaris recommends 5MM screws but I used 5mm bolts washers nuts and loctite which I feel fit better than the 3/16 rivets I had intended to use. I'm going to be doing my friends when his parts come in and I am going to see if I can cut the heads off the rivets from the top and Drive them down through the tunnel and then see if I can tighten the nuts from under the sled using a long extension up through the track window. I absolutely do not want to remove my oil tank and have to bleed the air out of the line but thats just me.
I was going to originally go with nuts and bolts but had concerns about them falling out. With a good lock washer and locktite that may be the way to go.
Thanks so much for this! Will check this Xmas vacation up in Maine. My hope is to grease and make it through the season before having so much fun ! I will feel your pain!!
No problem, im working on editing the 3rd part. Just have to put my belt on and set deflection. Honestly just doing the bearing wouldnt terrible if you can get it off. At the least I would sand the old mount smooth where it digs into the bearing. In my case it was worth just doing it all 👍
I did a LOT of reading on this on a forum called hard core sledders and saw to many failures in 21 sleds not to do it but i do all my own stuff and have a good place to do it so what not .The new mount looks much better than the old one and should be much easier on the bearing.Where in maine do you go I'm in Newbrunswick canada
The procedure for my 2013 Pro Rmk is much simpler, because 1) it uses a quickdrive, not a chaincase, so there is no case and no oil, and 2) my brake caliper is not situated in front of the quickdrive. The only thing I have to move is the battery and battery holder. It appears you did not remove the track before removing the jackshaft, which was my primary concern, because if that was necessary, I would take it to the dealer. How do you know when it's time to replace the jackshaft bearings on both the clutch side and the chaincase side? I have 2000 miles on the sled and they are still fine, but I don't want them to seize suddenly. EDIT: I do have to remove the brake caliper, but it's situated behind the top quickdrive pulley on the jackshaft, not in front of it.
As far as I know the rmk bearing mount was not affected. I would say replace the bearings whenever your in the off season if your feeling up to it. You could also pull the cover off the brake side bearing and see what it looks like. In my case I could not feel how bad the bearing was just from jacking the sled up and spinning the secondary clutch by hand. With bearings and most components Its all luck of the draw however preventative maintenance like replacement could limit the odds of it going. Ive seen older sleds with 10000 miles on original bearings.
Why would u buy a 60$ pos bearing from Polaris when any bearing distributor in your area can sell u a bearing thats better for 10-20$ u gonna have same issue every yr unless u pull seal and grease it. Its a bs set up without way to grease. Get a 12-1001 steel seal bearing, drill small hole in plate that holds bearing. Then once a season u pull secondary and put one squirt of grease in bearing and put back together. Itll outlast sled
I contacted a few suppliers I deal with, the Polaris bearing is not bad. The issue is the bearing mount causing it to crack, this also leads to grease loss. Greasing the bearing is not hard at all. The drive bearing is a pain though.
Thanks for PT 2 I just did this but I had my skid out to service and track out for studding so i cut the rivets off in the tunnel and the heads came with the mount. This eliminated the need to remove many of the parts that you did to get at the two rivets .I looked at using rivets during reassembly but see where Polaris recommends 5MM screws but I used 5mm bolts washers nuts and loctite which I feel fit better than the 3/16 rivets I had intended to use. I'm going to be doing my friends when his parts come in and I am going to see if I can cut the heads off the rivets from the top and Drive them down through the tunnel and then see if I can tighten the nuts from under the sled using a long extension up through the track window. I absolutely do not want to remove my oil tank and have to bleed the air out of the line but thats just me.
I was going to originally go with nuts and bolts but had concerns about them falling out. With a good lock washer and locktite that may be the way to go.
What length of 5mm bolts did you use instead of the rivets?
Thanks so much for this! Will check this Xmas vacation up in Maine. My hope is to grease and make it through the season before having so much fun ! I will feel your pain!!
No problem, im working on editing the 3rd part. Just have to put my belt on and set deflection. Honestly just doing the bearing wouldnt terrible if you can get it off. At the least I would sand the old mount smooth where it digs into the bearing. In my case it was worth just doing it all 👍
I did a LOT of reading on this on a forum called hard core sledders and saw to many failures in 21 sleds not to do it but i do all my own stuff and have a good place to do it so what not .The new mount looks much better than the old one and should be much easier on the bearing.Where in maine do you go I'm in Newbrunswick canada
@@terrymunn1224 Millinocket area
The procedure for my 2013 Pro Rmk is much simpler, because 1) it uses a quickdrive, not a chaincase, so there is no case and no oil, and 2) my brake caliper is not situated in front of the quickdrive. The only thing I have to move is the battery and battery holder. It appears you did not remove the track before removing the jackshaft, which was my primary concern, because if that was necessary, I would take it to the dealer. How do you know when it's time to replace the jackshaft bearings on both the clutch side and the chaincase side? I have 2000 miles on the sled and they are still fine, but I don't want them to seize suddenly.
EDIT: I do have to remove the brake caliper, but it's situated behind the top quickdrive pulley on the jackshaft, not in front of it.
As far as I know the rmk bearing mount was not affected. I would say replace the bearings whenever your in the off season if your feeling up to it. You could also pull the cover off the brake side bearing and see what it looks like. In my case I could not feel how bad the bearing was just from jacking the sled up and spinning the secondary clutch by hand. With bearings and most components Its all luck of the draw however preventative maintenance like replacement could limit the odds of it going. Ive seen older sleds with 10000 miles on original bearings.
Wen you replace mount for this upgrade did have a upgrade for jackshaft too or i can keep same shaft sry about my english am french canadian
I went back and forth on deciding to get the updated shaft. I ended up using the original shaft.
Would you be willing to do this job on my 2020sks ?
I could try and assist, I definitely dont have the time to do it haha. I think the sks is a different set up off the top of my head.
Why would u buy a 60$ pos bearing from Polaris when any bearing distributor in your area can sell u a bearing thats better for 10-20$ u gonna have same issue every yr unless u pull seal and grease it. Its a bs set up without way to grease. Get a 12-1001 steel seal bearing, drill small hole in plate that holds bearing. Then once a season u pull secondary and put one squirt of grease in bearing and put back together. Itll outlast sled
I contacted a few suppliers I deal with, the Polaris bearing is not bad. The issue is the bearing mount causing it to crack, this also leads to grease loss. Greasing the bearing is not hard at all. The drive bearing is a pain though.