Husqvarna M46 Cracked Tang Repair and Headspace Anomaly
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In this video Eric makes a chamber cast of one Husqvarna M46 that ate a field headspace gauge that may be a 9.3x62mm and also makes an easy repair to the stock using with Brownells Acraglas to prevent any further elongation of a small crack that has developed from stiff recoil. In a future video, Ray will be demonstrating how to full length bed a sporting rifle such as the M46 seen here with steel bed to provide a solid foundation to absorb the recoil of this rather heafy caliber and protect the stock from any further damage in the future. Stay tuned, much more on the way.
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Thanks so much. On my tasks to do, I am about to do a small tang crack repair and tighten up a slender stock on a very old Belgian made double barrel. Your video has given me some great pointers. Also, thank you for your service to our country.
Make your 9.3X57 brass out of .30-06 brass and you can set the shoulder with the dies so fire forming loads are not required.
I randomly woke up to this video this morning. No clue how I got here but I guess I’m going along with the ride.
It's kind of nice to watch you and Mark Novak. There are more than two ways to skin a cat and it's the intended result that matters. Good enough IS good enough, as long as you stay true to what's good enough.
Hey Eric, try a popsicle stick as an applicator. The rounded end works better to push the glass into the undercuts for the mechanical bond. And fills better.
glad to see you get back to your roots and do some smithin' vids. It's why I originally subscribed years ago on different accounts.
On my type 99 Arisaka, were the anti aircraft sights are. I had the rifle set upright with the sights up for photography. Well it fell over, wings were out so as it fell and caught wing, it applied pressure on the wooden hand guard that holds it in place, it cracked. So i used very lightly gorilla construction adhesive with a small paint brush to get the glue in place. Worked very well. Eventually i'll pay someone to to a full restoration on it.
Awesome stuff guys. Thanks for the knowledge Eric and Chad and keep up the amazing content. IV8888 for life !!!!!!!!
8uu9
I enjoy these videos tremendously, and I don't really know why.
Probably the best gunsmith on TH-cam
Heck NO...there’s ton of talented guys on here!
Hey we love this stuff and eat it up. These more in depth gunsmithing I leave to the professionals but as an owner I still need to have the knowledge. Keep up the good work and thanks so much, always.
P
Hey IV8888! I love your vids. Love from Australia!
Outstanding video
And DevCon is awesome stuff. Never fails.
A great video, I just got one of them and this is very helpful
Hadn't heard of the Brownell's spray release agent. Will try it. Nice job on the tang.
take a drink every time he says "mechanical bond" lol
gotta say ive been reloading a long time and i never thought about fire forming brass to then make reloads for a wore out rifle. thats pretty cool.
Good video as always.
On a lefty too my dude I feel your pain.
I really like your shop explanations. Forster says if your bolt DOES close on a Field headspace gauge, the rifle’s bolt face/chamber are at the end of useable service life, and may in fact be unsafe to shoot. I always use all three (Go/NoGo/Field) gauges on every rifle I am considering buying or that I build.
Thanks Eric!
Great video!
You should try the use of Cream of Wheat for fire forming. I used it with a semi-custom AR-15 Caliber and it worked like a dream and no use of a bullet.
awesome thanks for making this video
Great video.
I've seen some variance in the chambers of these rifles I normally size my 8mm brass up to 9.3mm then expand that to .40cal. For each rifle I slowly size the brass until it just barely chambers then fire form.
I would not care if eye sore as your work here would be master piece thing of luck to have such fine cared for process and job done
I did a full length bedding on an 03a3 that had a cracked tang and lots of other issues with it. I ended up taping the sides of the flats on the lower portion of the action and far rear of the tang to give .006" relief with the tape removed. The bottom of the action, rear of the recoil lug and steel pillars are the only contact points. Still not entirely sure if my thought process of relieving the farthest rear of the tang and sides of the flats was "right" but it shoots like it was the correct way to do it.
Eric, I really enjoy seeing you ,Othias, Mae, Mark and Ian making such great effort to preserve and still use these historic arms. It's a sad fact history isn't being taught in schools. This applies not only to firearms but also to the arts, communication, literature, transportation and so many aspects of our society. I'm a big fan of old sayings and one that comes to mind is, it's hard to know where you're going if you don't know where you've been. I'm looking forward to the next chapter on this gun. Thanks.
Jim, thank you. I really hope people see the fact that we want to preserve historical firearms, and make them available for future generations. In this case, we also want to film a hunt with this rifle so people can see the old Potato Thrower still has it.
I love these gunsmith videos keep em coming
I dealt with this same issue dealing with my spanish 1893's. What i found out is the saami spec for metric calibers is different in the us than it is in Europe at the time that the rifles were manufactured. The spacing is roughly. 01-.02mm. With a service point of .0275 mm maximum! That converts to 0.0039" to .0079" with a field maximum of .009" . Saami spec dictates max end is .007" . The rifles were designed for wartime dirt, mud and sand. Sloppy works with reliability. If its worn out too far, back to the armory it went for a rebarrel. Hope this helps. My Spanish 93's are .006" and .007 respectively.
As to fire forming, a charge of 20gr of 2400 topped with a full case of corn meal makes the prettiest fire form. To save work a chamber ream in 9.3x62 would be my direction, great video hope they don't bump you cause you are showing us how to....
Tactical arsenal👍👍🔥🔫
And I'd love video demonstrating how to fireform brass
The M46 is a great and reliable rifle based on the Swedish Mauser carbine M94 (small ring Mauser) The later model Husqvarna M146 is based on the Swedish (or German) Mauser M98 (large ring Mauser) which is considered even more safer and reliably. I used to have exactly the same model in same caliber (9,3x57). It was originally bought by my great grandfather, passed on to me from my father, and now in the hands of my son. The rifle is still in use and very accurate. I’m not sure if the headspace issue has any practical drawback, except slightly higher wear of brass? If you should do anything, I would recommend to thread in the barrel rather than rechamfer to 9,3x62 or another larger cartridge. This by several reasons: 1. The mechanism isn’t as strong as the large ring Mauser. 2. 9,3x57 is a fantastic caliber with reasonable light and slow recoil, more suitable to the original stock (it can be really painful to shoot 9,3x62 in an original Husqvarna stock). 3. The 57 is generally considered to have more “death” than the 62. Strange but true. It will pretty much always leave all energy in the animal (bullet is found just under the skin on opposite side for moose, red deer and wild boar), while the 62 most commonly poke a hole all the way thru the animal. This with the standard 18,5 g bullets (286 grains).
I like that you take such good care of a, probably 100 year old rifle, even if it is a standard “meat iron”!
could you do a refinishing video using durablue on an old hunting rifle and do some durability testing? The reason i am asking is i have an old marlin 30-30 lever action and it has been through the ringer bounced off the back of an atv and scratched and dinged up the blueing has worn thin on it in places and its getting to the point where its starting to rust quickly but it is still a good shooter. I dont want to spend a lot of money to get it refinished and would like to see what some one could do at home to clean up an old beat up hunting rifle. I love the gunsmithing videos and would like to see more of them.
Just bought a Husqvarna 1640, they have the same issue regarding cracking behind tang, so before I even take it out to the range I'm doing this. Considering bedding the whole receiver while I'm at it but I've never done something like this before so, start small and all that
I've been watching this channel for so long that I catch myself saying "by any stretch of the imagination" constantly. I've never heard it anywhere else.
@DR Dan well I'm damn near in Canada. I hear eh and aboot.
Don't forget; "It is what it is folks" ...lol...
They are running out of ideas wheres the fun videos at?
Stoner Page My particular favorite is "I tell you what" .........
@@gunsgamesgadgetschannel863 these are the fun videos.
Always intresting thank you
Nit that I know but my guess is he would have to clock the barrel inwards and would move the iron sights with it wick leaves the options of refit the irons or remove them and put on the scope.
I am assuming that the M46 is referenced to the cutting width of the lawn mower? What's the hp of the husqvarna m46?
I really liked when Brownels came out with the gel form. the older stuff i still use but the gel isn't sooo sloppy . Gotta have a Dremel with all kinds of bits doing this type of work too. Good video.
Sir, a suggestion when demonstrating the head space gauge process remove the striker, shroud and spring from inside the bold. Thus allowing you to carefully feel any resistance as the bolt handle is lowered. Keep up the great vids!
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How about asking Brownells to start selling a coiled induction heater that can be set to a safe temperature for guns and cerasafe? Just slide it over the chamber, leave it for a couple of minutes to heat up all the material in the chamber up to like 190F so you can get an almost perfect chamber cast
Not really related to this video, but would love to see you guys shooting and SLR (FN FAL) at 600. And also a SA80 (L89a1)
When a tang crack develops it is from recoil forces from the tang, usually AFTER the recoil lug area has failed, and now the tang is bearing against weak wood at the grip. At 21:30 it appears your wood between the recoil lug and magazine inletting is cracked loose and is merely a press fit. This can easily be detected by applying drops of brake cleaner or alcohol to the wood that will highlight the cracks as it evaporates. Break out the wood behind the lug, epoxy it back in place then bed the whole lug area in one job. Apply one layer of tape to the rear of the tang to provide a slight gap before bedding to prevent more tang cracks. Grip chip-outs wont ever happen if the tang never touches. Mausers, 1917's, 1903 all do this all the time. Its why later 1903 stocks have an intentional gap at the rear, Mosins too.
Not a wood worker but i work on cars... When steel or metals crack you generally drill into the end of the cracke to stop it from spreading. Im fairly intelligent and common sense tells me to drill this crack as well to stop it from continuing. I have a feeling this crack will keep spreading if you dont do that
I wondered about that.
The glass bedding kinda looks like dried cosmoline, crud, or grime. Adds a little character to the stock for anyone who doesn't know a repair was done.
You can drill hole behind tang and glue in 9mm brass if crack gets bigger
I love y'all
Wow!
I’ve got a cracked M39 stock at the wrist. I thought you had a repair video but I can’t locate it?
I have a gen2 23c yall got one like that too review
Question I have an auto 5 with 2 cracks about 1/2 inch long right where the tang stops and comb starts on either side how would you suggest I fix it
This is weird indeed, I wonder if the locking lug space in the receiver is off?
In Texas, you can heat the Cerasafe by leaving it in the truck on a hot afternoon.
kind of off topic but could you do a review on the century arms c308?
Eric, think a better solution would be to remove the barrel, machine it down one full thread, and rechamber. Having to have custom ammo is not a permanent solution. Or is it feasible to rechamber to 9.3X62?
Smart to spry the walnut dust with a release agent before mixing it with the acraglas?
What about reaming it to 9.3 x 62?
Dope
Hi,this headspace problem was probably a factory flaw because in Sweden they don't get to shoot enough to wear out a chamber . Also this gun probably took many moose being fired as is not knowing there was excessive head space and inadvertently fire forming cases because swedes are notorious for handloading
Hey do these tiny small cracks on a swedish m38 need to be fixed or cld they still fire 100s of rounds with out a problem.
What happened to the reloading vid yall had for this caliber?
now im confused wasnt relieving that area suposed to make it so it dont crack anymore ? now that you put material back wont it just keep happining
My smle has a 1500 of an inch head space issue. And i dont know how an "unissued" gun can only shoot ppu because it fireforms so well
Hi, your next option is recut the chamber to 9.3x62 .but it is a little bit tight in the magazine. You will need to install a recoil lug bolt . glassing doesn't help because you are only replacing wood with glass .You really need to leave a gap
Precisely
Interesting :)
No homo and no hate but goddamn I love you and or your content lol!
Great video !! These are super cool rifles, mine was built in 1929. If you need Norma 9.3x57 brass there is a guy on 24HRCF that has a bunch of it for sale.
Why not just turn shoulder og the threads on barrel and back of barrel to set the whole chamber back?
I want that bullet poster in the background, what is it????
I hate when my wife sits on my tang wrong and cracks it
Don't let your tang warp; keep it lubed.
Thats because it's humungus
Do you do stock repair?
That casting looked way different than factory brass. It even looked like a rimmed cartridge.
I thought rimmed as well, unless that is overflow onto the receiver/barrel face?
Can we get a model 8/81 and auto 5 video
Looking to get in contact with you concerning a M1 Melt down video
If my Tang is cracked - I just pour the drink powder into a different bottle.
308 MELTDOWN !!!
Why is this procedure being done?
cool now im going to reinforce all the mil surplo with my ocd
Eric , I can understand not wanting to go overboard on a milsurp repair . Why not pull the barrel cut back the shoulder and then correct the headspace with a finish reamer ? Is a reamer not available ?
We are exploring options for the headspace issue. I think we are going to open it up to 9.3x62mm or I should say Mr. Novak is. I’m not 110 percent comfortable pulling barrels
Notice how that field gauge didn't engage with the extractor either? Almost as if it's not up against the throat of the chamber.
If it’s a 9.3 x 62 take a 3006 and prime then change with 8 grains of 700x shotgun powder then fill case with corn meal and plug neck with toilet paper, fire form in rifle, outside in a safe direction,
Where are your guys getting these?
They run a pawn shop right?
I have a Erma werke model m1 22 rifle it was given to me by my friends wife after his death I'd love to learn more about this rifle history the big problems for me when it was found it had no magazine and I would love to find one and shoot this gun I made a little video of it but don't know how to send it to you . I have heard these were used to train guys in boot camp because the actual M1 carbine was needed so bad in the battlefield I also heard that the company that made this went out of business in the 50's but have no idea was wondering if you help
You can look it up online, Erma was a Bavarian company doing 22 and blank firing guns yet in high quality after the war these run around 60 E a magazine here (brd) since they are no longer produced and peope stock up on things that current regimes want to illegalize. 5 rounders are available.
- But you've also got at least one 9.3x62 rifle, so I suspect you've also got [a] gauge[s] for th[at/em] so why not just chuck that in & see if it locks up right? If it doesn't go ahead & cast the chamber.
Ain't nothing but a G tang
I'd only chamber cast if the larger 9.3x62mm round did not chamber.
Can you show us what the trigger is like on that m46?
I wish you would make a video shooting this rifle and doing a dedicated video just on this rifle and show us how to fireform some brass from 8 mm to 9.3
Any pepperbox gun reviews? I just purchased a blunt & syms and would love an overview on takedown and proper cleaning extra.
As far as i know lege artis is to relieve the tang so it doese not touch the stock in the recoil axis to prevent cracked stocks in 98 systems
but 98's have a recoil bolt :/
Gungeek yeah ok but it looks like the front action screw and the additional screw in front of the chamber are meant to tranfer the recoil, like with my ZKK600 stock and that one takes 9,3x64 fine - at least up to now it's not a cardridge you shoot hundreds of rounds every outing ;) The tang had space while the rest seemed tightly fitted and i relieved it again a bit axially after i acraglassed the action.
Gungeek Can't see anything going into the cutout in the stock on the receiver, the ZKK has a broad sturdy shelf on the sides of the front action screw maybe that's the difference.
you shoud have drilled a hole in the way of the cracks and fill them with the glass and the shavings so they dont continue their patterrn of walk
Amen to that, relieving and glassing that area will not stop the cracking. Amateur gunsmithing AGAIN!
dont wet me wrong erik is good in lots of things related to gunsmithing , he never claims to be a pro and y am not one too , he is trying to make a work witout having to interfeer to much with the stock and y understand it . messing with the wood is one of the worst parts in theese trade in my understanding and good wood fiters are gone for ever thats why all factories go with polimers now adays wood is always alive and does strange things .
Eric, are you a lefty or ambidextrous?
why don't you fix the head space problem ?
why are the cracks not filed out and filled in?
That would look awful. Pure astetics and still need to strengthen the area to prevent more cracking. A good question.
Nice repair. Lost me at steady hand. Yeah I couldn't do that. Don't have steady hands.
I need my GF to check my tang for proper head space
Spraying release agent right over you wood filings, not good
Norma has 325grain bullet's for the 9,3 those suckers might fix the headspace problem lol .
2:50 - I'd be careful snapping the extractor over the rim of the gauge, controlled feeds aren't supposed to do that.
The mauser extractor was designed to snap over a case rim, in the event that the controlled feed failed (which happens) they wanted to reduce the chances of a double feed and out of battery discharge. Some early civilian controlled feed designs (winchester) did not have a significantly beveled extractor face, and could be damaged by forcefully snapping over a case rim.
I was taught to remove the extractor on Mauser bolts before checking the headspace.
@@BigATB I have chambered rounds like that in all my old winchesters, other mausers, the Sako mauser I used in Africa, no truth whatsoever to that claim
I have done it for many years, no truth whatsoever in that myth
@@BigATB Snap over a case rim? perhaps...a case made of brass. But not a hardened steel go or no-go gauge. I have seen broken extractors AND chipped gauges from this malpractice.