I purchased the apollo Rfz40 last week. I put on a 17 front sprocket, a Mikuni carb with a 27.5 jet, and a two stage foam air filter right out of the box. The carb air screw was 2.5 turns out and it was past the point of fast no bog... try that out. It's crazy fast and no bog
Love these videos so much I plan on buying a Apollo and your videos already are making sure I’m on top of stuff on the bike and etc and hurry up and post your next video already!!😂✊🏼
Thanks for the informative video! I spent about three hours today putting together a red Z20 Max for the GF's 15 yo daughter. All hardware was there, but there were minor scratches on the forks and the front and rear fenders, as well as a tear on the rubber clutch lever dust guard. I own a Husky (TE 510), so I'm familiar with bikes. After assembly using plenty of Loc Tight Blue, I added gas and the bike started second kick. Some basic observations - fit and finish is good, but not great; clutch activation is quick (in the middle) and grabby; the clutch cable can touch the carb to engine intake and will need zip tying; the rear brake lever is sticking, the left grip was put on without adhesive; the transmission shifts OK but feels and sounds sketchy (may be the oil); the metal gas tank rattles on the frame, and the rear shock spring rattles as well. The stock carb bogs badly. I ordered another carb and will install that over the weekend. I will heat cycle the engine one more time and replace the "stock" oil with a synthetic 10/40 (hoping to improve gear and clutch operation). I'm also adding a magnetic oil plug. To help set reasonable expectations, I would rate the quality of this bike at 75% when compared to the Japanese brands. If it lasts two years I'll be happy.
Hey Chris, be advised, the oil that comes in them is just shipping oil, and shouldn’t be ran with that oil. As far as the rear brake sticking, check the metal sleeve at the bottom of the master cylinder that has the rod going through it down to the brake lever. I’ve seen those rubbing on that metal sleeve causing it to “stick” but really it’s just metal on metal contact between the rod and that sleeve. Oil probably will help the clutch issue, but probably wouldn’t hurt to check adjustments at the engine side under the right case side cover.
@@TynkaTyme Great info! I changed the oil to Mobil 1 10w40 (racing 4 stroke motorcycle) today and could hear the difference in the valves at idle and the transmission. The stock oil seemed very thin even after warm. A bit of light lube on the metal sleeve for the rear brake did the trick. Next I'll change out the carb to try and get rid of the bog just off idle. I'm finding the front brake to be a bit weak - may just need to be worn-in a bit.
@@chrisburger4518 that’s awesome! My front break is the same way, haven’t tried messing with that yet, as it still functions ok. Bogs are common on these, just have to get in there and play with jetting.. time consuming, but will be worth the pain in the butt! Good luck!!! Happy riding!
@@TynkaTyme Thanks again. I installed the new 22 mm "adjustable" carb tonight. Easy enough, but switching over the cable and carb top cap took some time as I had to twist out the spring. I did not remove the air box... just removed the two bolts and loosened the clamp at the filter box rubber fitting towards the rear. I'm not going to fiddle too much, but wanted to share my settings... the carb came 1 1/2 turns out on the main screw. I played around a bit and found 1 3/4 turns out seems to be about right (or the best I can get to right now). When I refer to "right", I really mean I can twist the throttle quickly in neutral and it doesn't bog (when the engine is warmed-up). I did not play with the settings related to acceleration or looking at the spark plug. This Z20 Max will be ridden by a 15 yo girl that is new to dirt bikes, so she will need to learn how to get the most of the power this little bike has. I did take it down my street and it accelerated cleanly through all of the RPM range in third gear with the throttle quickly pinned starting from low RPM.
Good assembly video. My wife has the Z20 MAX. Just a couple suggestions. The head bearings are completely dry. I took apart the triple tree clamps and greased the bearings. In addition to applying loctite to every nut/bolt as you did, I also applied dielectric grease to all the electrical connectors (more personal preference I guess). I upgraded the carb to a Mikuni 24mm, along with a UNI air filter. After some tuning, the bike runs great and pulls really well through all the gears (except for first gear😉).
I did look up under the triple clamps and seemed to have quite a bit of grease in the lower bearing, so i didn’t worry about it. Might have a carb on there already, more videos coming 😁 Plan to do a video on gearing to get more out of first gear
Anyone know what size the front wheel axle is ? Company didn’t ship mine with my Apollo z20 max. Spacers and axle. Week in and still no answer from them.
Thank you for the videos. I purchased the same bike a few months back. I wound up selling it and getting an X-18. I feel the X-18 bike is a better bike than the Z20. Much like yours mine was a terrible mess from bad shipping. Lots of scrapes and scratches, a few missing parts and never a solution from the merchant I purchased from. Just my opinions but things I disliked about Z20 were the AIR box and connecting rubber to carb. My air box had a bad warp in it so it didn't mount and close well also the rubber tube connecting carb to air box was always kinked so I feel airflow was restricted. The air filter Would not fit inside properly either without modification. The little white plastic piece that holds the brake cable on the fork guard didn't last long before it fell off. The brake lever is Not heavy duty and will bend Like the Prior x-18 model did. the new x-18 model has an improved rear brake lever that is beefy. The bike is defiantly heavier. Needs a gear change and new carb (But honestly I think they all do so not specific to z20) lastly the fuel tank. I do not like a metal tank. Z20 has a metal tank with NO option i found to replace with a plastic one like the x-18 does. Anyways love watching your videos peace and sty safe.
My wife has a Z20 MAX. The air box is garbage, I took out the whole assembly and replaced it with a UNI air filter. The Z20 models use a TTR 110 fuel tank which is plastic. I plan to upgrade to that soon, its around $40 on ebay.
I wish I knew about the Z20 before I ordered my RFZ 19 model. I haven't even received my bike yet, but the Z20 looks to be higher quality. The mudguard, airbox, and larger wheel size are nice too. - Then I watched the whole video, I feel a little better.
@@VDM32 I just looked it up. Damn, I didn't even know that was a thing. I don't think it was available when I ordered an RFZ19 about 2 years ago. I refused delivery and got a refund because the bike got so busted up in transit and a lot of the bolt-on parts were missing/damaged.
That probably has a 14 T sprocket. Get yourself a 16 T and 1st gear is more usable and wakes the bike up. Sprockets are $9.99 on Amazon so you can get the 15 and 17 for more tuning. Great vid
Planning on picking one of these up soon to teach my wife and kids the basics of motorcycle operation... Knowing you're coming from a DX-18 which would you recommend & why?
Just received my Apollo z20 and after building it I noticed my front brake pad is rubbing the rotor when I walk it forward. What side did you put the washers? On the outside where the bolt head? Any advice is appreciated!
@Tynka Tyme have you changed the fork oil on your z20 yet? I just recently did mine and it ended up being a HUGE improvement over stock. Stock the right side leg had roughly 170ML while the left side had around 200ML. I refilled with 220ML per leg and used Harley Davidson screaming eagle "heavy" fork oil. Harley doesn't list the actual weight and if you search you'll find conflicting info stating it's between 12-20wt for the SE "heavy". Based on viscosity I came up with it being around 15wt. I also tested different fork heights and found that setting the fork height at the 3rd line on the upper triple tree clamps made steering much better while remaining as stable as the first or 2nd line at higher speeds. After the fluid and height change it eliminated front end dive while braking and made it overall a much better ride. I highly recommend trying it out, you won't be disappointed.
Quick question 🙋♂️haha…how do I adjust and stiffen up the rear shock? Almost clapped it out off of a 10 ft jump lol. I got the Z20 Maxx and I’m somewhat content with it. I think I have a bad coil? When it heats up, it just wants to quit on me. Not the carb, so idk 🤷🏻♂️. BTW GREAT video and keep up the good work!!
There’s a nut on top of the rear spring just run it down and it puts more tension on it to make the spring more stiff. That sounds like a coil to me. They’re Cheap on amazon. Thanks for the support 🤙🏽
Changed out the coil. 💥 Bam! It’s runnin wonderfully! Thank you 🙏🏼 very much for gettin back to me on the spring adjustment! Also, definitely agree with ya on the front sprocket upgrade, it makes a huge difference! Thank you again brother for the advice and great videos!!
the end of your street is a dream come true😂 get to immediately go from your garage to a wooded sandy terrain lol that’s awesome
Going that extra mile 👍🏾
25:38 scared the poor doggo
How do you oil the air filter
I purchased the apollo Rfz40 last week. I put on a 17 front sprocket, a Mikuni carb with a 27.5 jet, and a two stage foam air filter right out of the box. The carb air screw was 2.5 turns out and it was past the point of fast no bog... try that out. It's crazy fast and no bog
I'll probably throw on a graphics kit and pro taper bars... give the bike a totally new look
Getting my bike delivered today! Thanks for making the assembly easy to follow! Great video! 👍
Where did you get it from
@@relaxingrainsounds2660 got mine for Superior Powersports in 2 weeks after it shipped
Love these videos so much I plan on buying a Apollo and your videos already are making sure I’m on top of stuff on the bike and etc and hurry up and post your next video already!!😂✊🏼
They’re comin🤙🏽🤙🏽🤙🏽 thanks for the support!
@@TynkaTyme always brother keep up the good videos!!🤟🏼
Where do you get the holdy boys
What size are the handle bars
I’m looking for rear and front break the whole assembly any suggestions
Can you tell me a parts list and where I can find them to where you bought your upgraded parts
Mines in the mail ive been worried about working on it I’m so glad you got one to walk us through the process
Where did you get it from
How well do you like the bike, is it worth the money
Thanks for the great video. Looks like you covered everything. I shouldn't have any questions, awesome.
Thanks for the informative video! I spent about three hours today putting together a red Z20 Max for the GF's 15 yo daughter. All hardware was there, but there were minor scratches on the forks and the front and rear fenders, as well as a tear on the rubber clutch lever dust guard. I own a Husky (TE 510), so I'm familiar with bikes. After assembly using plenty of Loc Tight Blue, I added gas and the bike started second kick. Some basic observations - fit and finish is good, but not great; clutch activation is quick (in the middle) and grabby; the clutch cable can touch the carb to engine intake and will need zip tying; the rear brake lever is sticking, the left grip was put on without adhesive; the transmission shifts OK but feels and sounds sketchy (may be the oil); the metal gas tank rattles on the frame, and the rear shock spring rattles as well. The stock carb bogs badly. I ordered another carb and will install that over the weekend. I will heat cycle the engine one more time and replace the "stock" oil with a synthetic 10/40 (hoping to improve gear and clutch operation). I'm also adding a magnetic oil plug. To help set reasonable expectations, I would rate the quality of this bike at 75% when compared to the Japanese brands. If it lasts two years I'll be happy.
Hey Chris, be advised, the oil that comes in them is just shipping oil, and shouldn’t be ran with that oil. As far as the rear brake sticking, check the metal sleeve at the bottom of the master cylinder that has the rod going through it down to the brake lever. I’ve seen those rubbing on that metal sleeve causing it to “stick” but really it’s just metal on metal contact between the rod and that sleeve. Oil probably will help the clutch issue, but probably wouldn’t hurt to check adjustments at the engine side under the right case side cover.
@@TynkaTyme Great info! I changed the oil to Mobil 1 10w40 (racing 4 stroke motorcycle) today and could hear the difference in the valves at idle and the transmission. The stock oil seemed very thin even after warm. A bit of light lube on the metal sleeve for the rear brake did the trick. Next I'll change out the carb to try and get rid of the bog just off idle. I'm finding the front brake to be a bit weak - may just need to be worn-in a bit.
@@chrisburger4518 that’s awesome! My front break is the same way, haven’t tried messing with that yet, as it still functions ok.
Bogs are common on these, just have to get in there and play with jetting.. time consuming, but will be worth the pain in the butt! Good luck!!! Happy riding!
@@TynkaTyme Thanks again. I installed the new 22 mm "adjustable" carb tonight. Easy enough, but switching over the cable and carb top cap took some time as I had to twist out the spring. I did not remove the air box... just removed the two bolts and loosened the clamp at the filter box rubber fitting towards the rear. I'm not going to fiddle too much, but wanted to share my settings... the carb came 1 1/2 turns out on the main screw. I played around a bit and found 1 3/4 turns out seems to be about right (or the best I can get to right now). When I refer to "right", I really mean I can twist the throttle quickly in neutral and it doesn't bog (when the engine is warmed-up). I did not play with the settings related to acceleration or looking at the spark plug. This Z20 Max will be ridden by a 15 yo girl that is new to dirt bikes, so she will need to learn how to get the most of the power this little bike has. I did take it down my street and it accelerated cleanly through all of the RPM range in third gear with the throttle quickly pinned starting from low RPM.
@@TynkaTyme I did notice the new adjustable 22 mm carb had what appeared to be a thicker needle than what came in the non-adjustable stock carb.
Im curious about the silencer mm are they a 28mm like the other bikes?>
Question, where did you get those handle bars and adapters to make them fit?? I have a Apollo x19.
Good assembly video. My wife has the Z20 MAX. Just a couple suggestions. The head bearings are completely dry. I took apart the triple tree clamps and greased the bearings. In addition to applying loctite to every nut/bolt as you did, I also applied dielectric grease to all the electrical connectors (more personal preference I guess). I upgraded the carb to a Mikuni 24mm, along with a UNI air filter. After some tuning, the bike runs great and pulls really well through all the gears (except for first gear😉).
I did look up under the triple clamps and seemed to have quite a bit of grease in the lower bearing, so i didn’t worry about it.
Might have a carb on there already, more videos coming 😁
Plan to do a video on gearing to get more out of first gear
Holdy boys ? Link ?
Wait till you break the bike in I thought so too I got my z 20 clearing 6065 mph
Any thoughts?
Where did you get the handle bar adapter
How to assemble the ignition switch
Anyone know what size the front wheel axle is ? Company didn’t ship mine with my Apollo z20 max. Spacers and axle. Week in and still no answer from them.
YES! I’m so glad you bought the new z20 version!! I’m looking forward to the vids you make on it 😁
Thank you for the videos.
I purchased the same bike a few months back. I wound up selling it and getting an X-18. I feel the X-18 bike is a better bike than the Z20.
Much like yours mine was a terrible mess from bad shipping. Lots of scrapes and scratches, a few missing parts and never a solution from the merchant I purchased from. Just my opinions but things I disliked about Z20 were the AIR box and connecting rubber to carb. My air box had a bad warp in it so it didn't mount and close well also the rubber tube connecting carb to air box was always kinked so I feel airflow was restricted. The air filter Would not fit inside properly either without modification. The little white plastic piece that holds the brake cable on the fork guard didn't last long before it fell off. The brake lever is Not heavy duty and will bend Like the Prior x-18 model did. the new x-18 model has an improved rear brake lever that is beefy. The bike is defiantly heavier. Needs a gear change and new carb (But honestly I think they all do so not specific to z20) lastly the fuel tank. I do not like a metal tank. Z20 has a metal tank with NO option i found to replace with a plastic one like the x-18 does.
Anyways love watching your videos peace and sty safe.
My wife has a Z20 MAX. The air box is garbage, I took out the whole assembly and replaced it with a UNI air filter. The Z20 models use a TTR 110 fuel tank which is plastic. I plan to upgrade to that soon, its around $40 on ebay.
I wish I knew about the Z20 before I ordered my RFZ 19 model. I haven't even received my bike yet, but the Z20 looks to be higher quality. The mudguard, airbox, and larger wheel size are nice too.
- Then I watched the whole video, I feel a little better.
The z40 model is even better has big bore kit and upgrades NIBBI carb, ngk spark plug with better cdi box and other great upgrades included
@@VDM32 I just looked it up. Damn, I didn't even know that was a thing. I don't think it was available when I ordered an RFZ19 about 2 years ago. I refused delivery and got a refund because the bike got so busted up in transit and a lot of the bolt-on parts were missing/damaged.
Where did you buy this?
X-offroad.com
Bruh simular profile pic, nice!!! It isnt the dbx18 is it? CUz mine is
And dang i shouldve done that site.. I did txpowersports and have had to wait 2 months so far
@@josiahcorrea6183 my profile pic is the x15
@@maxramos62737 close enough lol
Whats the spark plug gap for the apollo 125
Z-20 Max here!
That probably has a 14 T sprocket. Get yourself a 16 T and 1st gear is more usable and wakes the bike up. Sprockets are $9.99 on Amazon so you can get the 15 and 17 for more tuning. Great vid
Hey I just got the z20 and there is clear tube with a cap on it. Does that cap have to be removed or not?
Where did you get it from
To just play nothing instead of that music man cause god
How can I order one 😫
great video man keep up the good work
Where can I get those parts u put on the handlebars to hold them in place on the risers??
Amazon.
www.amazon.com/dp/B082K7B7D7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_imm_3ZNT78BYDG1NC5J5Z6FR
Planning on picking one of these up soon to teach my wife and kids the basics of motorcycle operation... Knowing you're coming from a DX-18 which would you recommend & why?
Just received my Apollo z20 and after building it I noticed my front brake pad is rubbing the rotor when I walk it forward. What side did you put the washers? On the outside where the bolt head? Any advice is appreciated!
My bikes clutch cable is hard is there any way I can fix it we have the same bike
Check adjustment at engine under the side cover, and at handlebars
i got the z20 max 🙌🏼
Also how tall are you I am about 5’11 do you think it’s a big enough for me?
I’m 5’11 and love it
Thanks and I am going to try and do what you did to get more power out of the bike, do you think your bike has enough power now with your upgrades?
I really wanted to go to a crf150r but I’m just now learning clutch and I don’t want to blow a bike up 😭
@Tynka Tyme have you changed the fork oil on your z20 yet? I just recently did mine and it ended up being a HUGE improvement over stock. Stock the right side leg had roughly 170ML while the left side had around 200ML. I refilled with 220ML per leg and used Harley Davidson screaming eagle "heavy" fork oil. Harley doesn't list the actual weight and if you search you'll find conflicting info stating it's between 12-20wt for the SE "heavy". Based on viscosity I came up with it being around 15wt. I also tested different fork heights and found that setting the fork height at the 3rd line on the upper triple tree clamps made steering much better while remaining as stable as the first or 2nd line at higher speeds. After the fluid and height change it eliminated front end dive while braking and made it overall a much better ride. I highly recommend trying it out, you won't be disappointed.
I lost 4th gear on that bike not to self don’t treat it like if your sponsored with free parts lol
Mine came with factory bead locks 🤔
And i just watched were you said yours did aswell lol
Have you ever thought about getting an SSR? I recently got a 2021 SSR SR 150cc and I like it much better than my RFZ
I bought mine and my front and rear brakes didn’t work at all. I bleed the brakes hoping they’d work but nothing
I had a brand new one never even rode it sat in the garage broke down. I threw it in the alley never going to touch Chinese junk again.
lol
Buy Honda only they last a lifetime
Quick question 🙋♂️haha…how do I adjust and stiffen up the rear shock? Almost clapped it out off of a 10 ft jump lol. I got the Z20 Maxx and I’m somewhat content with it. I think I have a bad coil? When it heats up, it just wants to quit on me. Not the carb, so idk 🤷🏻♂️. BTW GREAT video and keep up the good work!!
There’s a nut on top of the rear spring just run it down and it puts more tension on it to make the spring more stiff.
That sounds like a coil to me. They’re Cheap on amazon.
Thanks for the support 🤙🏽
Changed out the coil. 💥 Bam! It’s runnin wonderfully! Thank you 🙏🏼 very much for gettin back to me on the spring adjustment! Also, definitely agree with ya on the front sprocket upgrade, it makes a huge difference! Thank you again brother for the advice and great videos!!
It is a pit bike it wouldn't handle a ten foot jump without hitting the metal
Flat as a fart.