The 90 degree 1'' hose that connects to the coolant tank can be made so that can be turned at any angle. On the female end of the coolant tank you can take a drill bit the same size as the groove and with light side pressure on the drill bit and finish cutting the retainer groove all the way. now the 90* fitting can swivel.
The Transmission dip stick tube has a weird angle where it slips into the transmission. I cut the tube about 3-4 inches above where it comes out of the transmission and turned it facing up towards the engine. Then used a 3 inch piece of heater hose and two clamps slipped over the tube at the cut to rejoin tube. I also leaned that I could heat the tube gently where I needed to reshape the bends, made things easier and I was able to come up right along the fire wall right above the exhaust manifold. Fab-ed a small bracket to attach to the tubes bracket to. My truck came with the external transmission filter which I deleted and went with the updated transmission pan and filter. I rough cut the transmission send and return lines just before the engine cross over mount. Then I used the torch to heat and reform the lines to run beside the transmission and the Passenger side frame rail and then made a final cut length at the front of the transmission. Keeping in mind to leave as much room as possible should I need to change the engine starter one day. At the transmission cooler in the front the lines make a 90* turn upwards and have a mounting clip holding them against the passenger frame rail. I cut the lines off a few inches back towards transmission from that front line mount so that I could use the 90* bends. I then used 1/2'' AN hose and connectors with 1/2'' compression connectors to mate to the steel transmission lines. I also slipped 3/4 heater hose over the AN hose before I put the final ends on for added protection as it snakes pass the engine and engine mounts. My 08 Cummins donor engine came with a damaged AC compressor. DCS says to use a compressor from another year model. But I like the way the manifold lines were working out with using the damaged 08 compressor as mock up. I cut the Ford compressor ends off the Ford AC lines and slightly swagged larger and was able to slip them over the Dodge compressor manifold line. Mocked everything up and marked the orientation of the fit Tig Aluminum welding the Ford to Dodge compressor manifold. The Charge pipping from the Turbo to the intercooler is about the most challenging, not much space to fit it all in. I shortened the Ford Pipe where bend around the radiator just enough so that I could get the clamps on it. Then I used the Dodge pipe from the Turbo modifying it to make a fair fit. It's not pretty but it works. Be sure to do at least a 20 psi pressure test of the intercooler system to check for leaks. I recently have had the idea that if I could find aluminum dryer tubing in a 3'' size, I could use it as a templet to have a muffler shop bend me a custom pipe.
I heard that the dipstick tube from the V10 gasser works without modification and I plan to look into it later. I think what I have in there is good enough for now though. I upgraded the trans pan and filter before any of the engine failure happened. But I also left the external in place.
Took me a few seconds at about the 2:30 mark to figure out that your window was up and clean and I was seeing a reflected you at the same time. I have never changed a front seal, but withthe access that you had with so much of the front end open, definitely seemed like a good time to address it, and not after your radiator and all was back in
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The 90 degree 1'' hose that connects to the coolant tank can be made so that can be turned at any angle. On the female end of the coolant tank you can take a drill bit the same size as the groove and with light side pressure on the drill bit and finish cutting the retainer groove all the way. now the 90* fitting can swivel.
That is a great idea!
It was one of my Finer Moments. LOL! @@FunKingGarage
The Transmission dip stick tube has a weird angle where it slips into the transmission. I cut the tube about 3-4 inches above where it comes out of the transmission and turned it facing up towards the engine. Then used a 3 inch piece of heater hose and two clamps slipped over the tube at the cut to rejoin tube. I also leaned that I could heat the tube gently where I needed to reshape the bends, made things easier and I was able to come up right along the fire wall right above the exhaust manifold. Fab-ed a small bracket to attach to the tubes bracket to.
My truck came with the external transmission filter which I deleted and went with the updated transmission pan and filter. I rough cut the transmission send and return lines just before the engine cross over mount. Then I used the torch to heat and reform the lines to run beside the transmission and the Passenger side frame rail and then made a final cut length at the front of the transmission. Keeping in mind to leave as much room as possible should I need to change the engine starter one day. At the transmission cooler in the front the lines make a 90* turn upwards and have a mounting clip holding them against the passenger frame rail. I cut the lines off a few inches back towards transmission from that front line mount so that I could use the 90* bends. I then used 1/2'' AN hose and connectors with 1/2'' compression connectors to mate to the steel transmission lines. I also slipped 3/4 heater hose over the AN hose before I put the final ends on for added protection as it snakes pass the engine and engine mounts.
My 08 Cummins donor engine came with a damaged AC compressor. DCS says to use a compressor from another year model. But I like the way the manifold lines were working out with using the damaged 08 compressor as mock up. I cut the Ford compressor ends off the Ford AC lines and slightly swagged larger and was able to slip them over the Dodge compressor manifold line. Mocked everything up and marked the orientation of the fit Tig Aluminum welding the Ford to Dodge compressor manifold.
The Charge pipping from the Turbo to the intercooler is about the most challenging, not much space to fit it all in. I shortened the Ford Pipe where bend around the radiator just enough so that I could get the clamps on it. Then I used the Dodge pipe from the Turbo modifying it to make a fair fit. It's not pretty but it works. Be sure to do at least a 20 psi pressure test of the intercooler system to check for leaks. I recently have had the idea that if I could find aluminum dryer tubing in a 3'' size, I could use it as a templet to have a muffler shop bend me a custom pipe.
I heard that the dipstick tube from the V10 gasser works without modification and I plan to look into it later. I think what I have in there is good enough for now though.
I upgraded the trans pan and filter before any of the engine failure happened. But I also left the external in place.
Took me a few seconds at about the 2:30 mark to figure out that your window was up and clean and I was seeing a reflected you at the same time. I have never changed a front seal, but withthe access that you had with so much of the front end open, definitely seemed like a good time to address it, and not after your radiator and all was back in
I was thinking that I should have done it before it was even installed in the truck, but you are right, it was perfect access and up off the ground.