Adding a SECOND Router!
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How can you add a second wireless router - technically an access point - to your home network, and what are the benefits and drawbacks?
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Correction: In AP mode, the WAN port usually works like a LAN port, and some models have a faster WAN port (for example, Archer AX6000 has a 2.5gbps WAN port, but 1gbps LAN ports)
It's common practice to connect the WAN port of a router in AP mode to a LAN port on the gateway of the network.
One of my routers (now retired, but still works), a Belkin from around 2007, also works exactly this way, though that one only has 10/100 capability. AP mode basically turns the router into a switch. What I mean by this is that pretty much even really old routers work this way, so there should be no issue doing that.
The only difference is that, when using the WAN port instead of LAN, you need to disable NAT (if consumer grade routers automatically do that in AP mode, that's great)
@@vitorao That’s what AP mode is meant for. It goes from acting as a gateway and dhcp server, to being a layer 3 switch and wifi access point. I’d be more concerned of a router’s AP mode *didn’t* do this.
Mby on asus, on TP-Link wan is always wan.
@@barneybarney3982That's weird. My upgraded router (a TP-Link Archer C80 I bought to replace the aging Belkin) lets me use the WAN port just like the LAN ports in AP mode.
When my Asus RT-AC88U started getting bogged down, I upgraded to the Asus RT-AX88U. Rather than toss the AC88U, I tried the AiMesh feature that Asus offers through the router interface. It worked awesome and was able to enhance my wifi network by incorporating the AC88U into the Mesh network. The setup was easy and assume behind the scenes it was doing everything you discussed your video (DHCP turned off, etc) automatically. Great feature on Asus routers!
I was actually going to mention this. Some have the feature to put them in an AP mode so it's used as a simple access point.
I'm running the exact same setup as you actually haha.
Came here to mention this. LTT even covered the 86u which has the same feature.
you also can flash openwrt on other brand router and mesh them ivebeen using very cheap router called mi4a, even use them for load balance last for years
AP choice is up to client, AiMesh or not likely had nothing to do with it. (unless ofc they share encryption secrets, which would make reconnecting slightly faster)
I like Asus routers. I have two 68Us for the same reason. Also, built in VPN etc. I know they're not the only ones with this functionality, but I'm a happy customer.
Never set a second router/AP's IP that is within the main router's DHCP range. Rather move or reduce the DHCP pool as you don't want a device to get an IP that is the AP's IP. Rather make the AP IP a high number, I typically use .250 for AP's
Most home routers DHCP automatic addresses are between .100 to .200 or .254. Good to just look at the setting though and pick one outside the DHCP range.
Or simply use mac address binding to bind that address to a particular machine. This way you can have the DHCP range address without any conflicts.
@@akshaymathur136 that is a DHCP reservation and while good, some home routers' configuration software either don't allow it or have some obtuse rules about it. On top of that they likely wanted to keep this video short and as uncomplicated as possible, so trying to explain a MAC address and how to apply it might have been a bit much for a "techquickie." Compound that with the fact that this isn't even the best solution for this kind of problem, it's just the cheapest and easiest to implement, and you might see why they left a lot of helpful things out.
That is best practice, yes.
Though if your AP responds to ping, the DHCP server should mark it as BAD_ADDRESS and not assign it to any clients, as a safeguard against this exact scenario.
Best to do both - APs should have the highest IPs, and the DHCP pool should be configured to exclude the high end of the IP range - however many individual IPs required to be static. IP reservations are possible too, but then you might as well do it properly and set static IPs with DHCP pool exclusions.
Can confirm this is great. Had a similar setup at my parent's house so we get proper signal everywhere, including a detached kitchen and a garden.
One other thing to note is that if a cable is impractical, you can get similar results by connecting the second router to the wireless network of the first one. Not everything supports this wifi repeater mode, but it's worth checking. The downside is that it will have lower speed and higher latency copmpared to using a cable,, but it's better than nothing.
had to do this in a small flat because of the awkward placing of the signal box. Bought a second router with gigabit ports and did what you described in the video. But that problem with staying connected to one AP was too annoying. So it was easiest to disable wifi on the first (main) router, because the second one was placed in the middle, so good coverage. Also removed the antennae from the first one and now it looks quite clean.
Two routers like that are also simply useful as mini switches. I have gigabit ports here on the main side, letting me connect my PC to a PC hooked to ethernet on one of the remaining gigabit ports on the second router.
This a good quick and dirty solution, especially if you have wireless devices that are unlikely to travel around the house. However, if you do have devices that travel across the house, most are typically very bad at disconnecting from their original access point with bad signal strength to the new access point (with the same access credentials) with much better signal strength. Often times you have to disconnect and reconnect from the network on the device yourself.
A better solution is some kind of mesh setup. Many newer routers have this capability, but have it disabled unless you connect mesh nodes (compliant access points.) This starts to get really complicated if you didn't just get an all in one mesh system, so I understand why it wasn't gone over in this video. Essentially, the mesh network handles switching the devices connection to the correct access point so your device doesn't have to and is typically way better at doing it and provides a better experience.
I love my deco X55, but I used to do this years ago before mesh was as available and affordable.
I have a 4 base Deco X20 setup, but I still have a cheap T-Link Archer C54 router in range extender mode attached to my Blu-Ray player, and media/family gaming PC in my game room that don't have built in WiFi, as they don't need anything faster
Mesh is still pretty expensive imo
You need to make it clear that the 2nd router should either use a static IP out of the dhcp range of the first or reserve that IP on the first router.
Since it is unlikely the secondary access point will be off long enough for a new DHCP request to receive the APs previous IP address, it is probably fine and they probably skipped it in order to make this video short and relatively uncomplicated.
However yeah, setting a DHCP reservation on the primary router would have been a good step, but there are plenty of other things they left out because this is a big topic. On top of that, some cheaper and older routers don't even allow a DHCP reservation, or have some obtuse rules about it.
He says it in the video
@@monsterhunter445, nope. He only said not to use an IP address that is currently being used by another device. That's pretty different.
@@CreativityNull, no need to set an IP reservation. You only need to use an IP out of the DHCP range.
@@vitorao depends on the primary router. Some will reject a request outside of the range or some will use the full subnet as the range (minus the address for router and the WAN). However, some will ONLY allow a reservation or a specific IP request outside of the DHCP range, PFsense is like this.
Asus routers auto do this all you got to do is when setting up set up 2nd router as an extension. Super easy.
2:55 this is not always the case if the second router has a dedicated AP mode as when the router is configured in that made specifically, it does expect to receive its ethernet through the WAN port, or at least my TP Link AX73 does (we have two of that same router on the same network)
This actually doesn't work in most situations, as most devices don't use the SSID solely as their method of connecting to the AP. They also use the address, which is always different (just like all devices have a unique MAC address). That is why your device will choose to stick with the AP that has the very poor signal instead of just switching to the now better AP. You should actually look into something call WDS is you're trying to do this.
WDS is a wireless alternative to wired backhaul and has nothing to do with roaming of clients.
This is the video I needed for a long time. Have three routers at home but didn't quite know how to make all three act as one. Most of the videos I found on YT were long and kinda tricky to understand for a person like me who has a limited tech knowledge. Thank you for explaining the steps so simply. It's nice to see the channel that you love make a video addressing the thing u wanted to do for a long time.
You really would be better off going with a 3 base T-Link Deco X20 mesh router setup at this point as each of the bases has 2 lan ports, plus along with the app it's very simple to setup, keep the firmwares updated, diagnose any issues, and as long as you have a stable data connection on your phone you can even do remote speed test if someone in your home calls/txt you while you're away that the internet is not working, and you can tell if it's the mesh routers or the ISP, and if it the routers restart them remotely, and only have them restart the modem/gateway if necessary.
Also having a mesh setup all from the same company using the same WiFi tech is more secure, and will reduce WiFi interference, channel overlap, and overall giving you less headaches.
@@CommodoreFan64 You really would be better off learning the difference between gratitude and someone asking for your opinion
@@MegaZeta O yes your might holy master, anything you say. 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
I was just giving him an much easier solution that cost about the same amount of money as this one, so seriously cool your jets, and go sit in the corner, because you're not anyone's master, and overlord!!
Just curious if you have covered the use of powerline adapters, I find them useful.
To combat the "Roaming" issue (RSSI) set the WiFi channels to different but overlapping channels. Especially for 2.4Ghz. Only 2 channels apart. So Router 1 is set to Channel 1 and Router 2 is on Channel 3. So when a device "roams" it detects a drop in RSSI as it gets out of range of Router 1 but sees Router 2 with a stronger signal on Channel 3 and automatically swaps. But you must manually set both to specific channels. And as they both overlap into Channel 2 the move is done with almost no drop in network activity. All routers or Access Points, even corporate or industry grade only use channels 1, 6 and 11 by default. And when they say they "automatically change to compensate for high wireless interference" will almost always still use 1, 6 and 11. Also try not to use channels 12 or 13. Even in the US where these channels can be used, as most devices such as phones will still avoid them. 5ghz or any newer standards like Wifi 6 don't suffer with the RSSI roaming as much but still can be stuck on the same channels such as channel 36, 48 etc.
Could you do a video on audio mixing devices, not for streaming, mainly for just adjusting audio of programs with a slider/knob on a hardware device.
I’m surprised you didn’t touch on the air-abridge mode (wireless abridge mode) for some cases where running a Ethernet cable is not feasible/ unpractical.
E.g. The router is downstairs but no Ethernet port is upstairs, you can use abridging if the second router supports it. The second router can also be used like a WiFi-adapter for TV-boxes or computes, better than those USB WiFi adapters…
No one in their right mind would recommend a wireless backhaul over wired backhaul when you can use Mesh WiFi to get better performance
I have this set up at home and it was a bit fiddly to set up, but it's been working wonderfully for years.
Ap mode + asus ai mesh is much easier. It makes the second router into a mesh node.
When using more than one routers or access points that are managed individually (not as a mesh), it is important to be careful about the WiFi channels used by each router. They should not overlap between them. If they do, the two router will conflict with each other and WiFi experience will be worse than with a single router. For 2.4GHz, the only non-overlapping channels are 1, 6 and 11. Mesh APs usually have a built-in smart allocation of channels that automatically avoid channels overlap.
Video starts at 2:00
😂😂😂
I used to have my second router on the same subnet in AP mode but I found better results when I had it in charge of a second subnet but with the same SSID. I should give my network an overhaul as it's a bit janky now
Mann.. I've tried this,.. twice.. found a tutorial that said this exact same thing, and i found all the right settings and made it "work" but the part where it automatically chooses the strongest connection never worked, and therefore I always had connection problems when i went from the 1st floor to the second or third floor in my house, because it kept the connection with the one on the other floor, which made it extremely weak.. ended up with giving both routers a different name and manually changing the network if i want to use the home network (i usually just stay on mobile network though). Maybe I just miss something obvious, but I can't get this to work..
Helpful tip: configure DHCP to give out addresses over .100. That way it is easy to set static IPs safely, perhaps manually, and give them numbers from 2 to 99. And if you see an IP you can easily deduce whether it got it via DHCP
So for infrastructure like routers and servers, give them static IPs, but any clients will have DHCP assigned addresses
It also helps to create static IP's for usual devices.
2:22 Never yolo-set a device IP like that. It MUST be outside the DHCP IP range or reserved in the DHCP server. The DHCP server will gladly assign devices your IP unless you tell it not to and then the traffic breaks down.
Fast roaming feature does wonder, as it allows you to move between routers seamlessly, without interruption. Because when you do this setup, the devices would tend to stay at the same network, no matter the signal strength. And the transition between your wifi will interrup the connection.
Marcfiftyone has a great video discussing this.
Tbh wifi mesh system is too pricey in my place, and my coverage needs isn't something like a huge warehouse, so this video is really a huge help
I'd love to see a video about how IPs get allocated on cellular data, and networking on LTE etc. in general :)
Telecom is very complicated. There is some on paper explanation but you're going to struggle to see real implementations because that is the secret sauce from the big MNOs.
youtube.com/@Mpirical
Takes me back to the days when i had a power booster and a access point, So good the house across the street could use my internet and share $.. Not that I ever did that.. lol
If you are buying a router just for one device to connect to, like I want a 6E router JUST for my Quest 3 to connect to, do I need to do all this configuration?
Erm.. it's more complicated than that. Using just same name of the wifi and same password, will cause the issue of the device not changing AP almost all the time. And changing AP, for sure it will fail transfers happening meanwhile. The solution for that is to use OpenWRT if your router doesn't support by itself that feature. You need to have (ideally) 802.11k, 802.11r and 802.11v functional, and then the seamless router transition will work. These protocols are the ones used by every mesh router. I set up 3 Xiaomi 4A gigabit routers with OpenWRT, obtaining an extremely cheap yet functional mesh network. Each router costed me 22 euros
Man of culture right here
And then someone will complain he can't access the printer connected to the second router while connecting to the main router.
You should start a channel for instructions how to use new devices . There are no good tutorials being made anymore , but there are still new people that will get a iphone 14 and it will be their first iphone in their life . Good starter tutorials with tips about maximizing the use of every devices would be great .
You actually have to configure your first router so that it doesn't give the IP address you assigned to the second router to any other client. If you don't do it, such a setup may break in a mysterious way. When the second router is in AP mode, WAN port is bridged to LAN ports, so you can use it; that's what I'm actually using: the Ethernet cable from my main router is connected to the WAN port of my second router.
Hi I have ethernet cBle connected to my existing router , the cable is connected to lan4 , then cable is goin to the garage and I have second router there connected to lan4 to and is workin perfect but only problem is next to existing router there is some small box and Is biping every 2 minutes Any idea what is wrong , should I connect cable to different port in the second router maby in to wan ? My existing interenet is fibre is that mak any different
Thank you! I have two asus routers and was wondering what was I doing wrong when trying to make the second one the only with wifi spot. Now it all makes sense 😂
WiFi extenders/ mesh networks are life savers
Best and cheaper way to solve this is using wireless routers with repeater and mesh features built in, even better if they are the same brand and even better if they are the same model.
Not to forget that many routers let you configure mesh. If that's the case then there's no need to by a special kit.
For things like TVs and other mostly stationary devices this is a good idea and will work great. roaming part is the part that doesn't work well. The device will lock on and not let go until it loses connection. Even business grade access points struggle with this because its often more the device connecting vs the access points issue.
So the routers have to be connected via ethernet for the secondary one to act as an Access Point? That sucks... It's the reason why I bought a simple wireless repeater that can just be plugged anywhere and connects via WPS.
I am using 2 of them already in my house works nice
It's actually the modem that moves data from internet to home but go on..
Sorry but you went too fast and left out several steps.
Only other thing I would add is to turn off automatic channels and manually separate them on the spectrum. My neighbors more than likely hate me, I have 3.
So both routers should be connected via their respective lan ports
Or
The secondary AP router should be connected to the primary via its WAN port?
This video is just full of misinformation. To begin with, the title of this video is wrong. Should be “using your unused router as a Wi-Fi access point”. There’s no 2nd router here since there’s only one router doing routing. Which the video even stated.
And no DHCP isn’t responsible for dropping traffic to the right device. The router sends out an ARP request message broadcasting who has that specific IP and the client responds with its MAC address. It has nothing to do with DHCP at all.
And no, having two DHCP servers doesn’t cause the clients to have “issues that could cause errors”, simply the lease from the quickest responding DHCP server is taken and it won’t alternate between different IP addresses like the video is trying to illustrate.
So the second router has to be connected to the first one via lan port? If so how can I place them apart?
I really needed it to set up wifi at my parents home thanks 👍😅
- main modem: 192.168.1.1 enable DHCP
- router 1: 192.168.2.1 enable DHCP
- router 2: 192.168.3.1 enable DHCP
is this okay?
When I try to manually change the IP using Windows network manager, I also have heaps of other crap to fill in such as subnet prefix, gateway, preferred destination etc..... what do I do?
0:20 The router in your home sends your video to your intended screen. The *little chromecast button* on your phone's video player sends that video to the least intended screen 😂❤
Yeah I still haven't found something to disable it easily
I used two routers to cover our 3 storie house for years. It was a mess... since a few years I have one of the cheapest Mesh solutions available from NOVA and it works really well. Still has some hickups once in a while but nothing like what I had with two routers.
Great video as always!
Can you PLEASE do a new video on the different DNS types (IP4, DoH, DoT, DoQ, DNScrypt, etc.) I’ve been playing with all the different types now that I can us them via AdGuard Home and would love to see a quick deep dive 👍
Some will believe that it really explodes...
In other words, an extended wifi. I did this years ago art an apartment I lived in with some people, and it worked wonders. I did this exactly as you described it.
Here in Germany there are routers from a German company called Fritz!Box and they make it really comfortable to reuse their old routers. The routers can mesh with each other, so you don't need to configure the wifi ssid and password on the second router and if you change some wifi settings, like password or enabling the guest wifi, it will automatically be adopted by the second router, which makes it pretty convenient.
It's actually rather typical for routers of the same company. Dlink, asus, kinetic all do this and many others.
Yup, FritzBox is doing a great job there.
So make my second router the same IP as my Nintendo Switch. Got it, thank you!
I’ve done this so many times, but I always use the WAN port on the secondary router. This makes the secondary router act as a subnet and imo is a simpler set up and I’ve found it to be plug and play (almost)
Can you hardwire devices to the second one, or is it only a signal boost at that point? Or do you need to use a certain port for that?
Yes! I primarily used it to be able to hardwire my desktop(s) and provide a stronger WiFi signal upstairs
For less experienced users doing this, realize that devices won't be able to access devices that may be setup on either side of the local networks, like a printer/backup/NAS/server/casting. You may want to cast to a TV or wifi speaker, and unless they are on the exact same subnet, you won't be able to see it. This also creates "double NAT'ing" scenarios and all data packets will be a bit slower and more likely to loose packets/data because it has to make extra local hops out and back from the interwebs. This is great in a pinch, but things won't work as smoothly or reliably.
it mostly depends on the router in question, one old router i have will not work if plugged over WAN, but it works fine if connected via LAN, the newer one has in its settings for AP mode to connect it via the WAN port
You can also turn your old router in to a switch, just change the router IP to different one and then deactivate DHCP on the router.
Please cover how a mesh router is able to achieve seamless roaming
They did, 4 years ago
Although there are mesh router systems out there than can help/push/steer a device in an attempt to improve roaming performance, in the end it's still up to the device to decide which AP it connects to if the SSID/Password is the same.
IEEE 802.11r
@@lthemanl Indeed like my Switch Lite, and Nokia T20 Android tablet, if I go from one end of my house to the other even though I have a 4 base TP-Link Deco X20 setup I have to switch the WiFi off on them, and then back on, so they connect, and get a stronger signal to a nearby base, however my Nokia G50 on Android 13 just does its thing, and when the signal gets weak it reconnects, and I don't have to think about it.
All the APs report back to a central come and and you can cross reference device signal strength on different APs, and then try to "force" a device onto the AP with the better signal. It works better or worse depending on the device - some are just incredibly sticky.
Mesh solutions also generally have options to force static devices onto a particular AP as the device may latch on to a worse choice.
Basically the mesh options are purpose-built and therefore have a lot more control around how devices are connecting to the mesh network.
Purple suits you James. You look gorgeous king
this helps alot.... does my second router have to issue ip adresses or can i leave that all to number 1
ive been doing it for years it works great
I have been buying ASUS Routers for many years and thanks to their AiMesh features I don't have to throw away my old router and get extended coverage around the house.
I also dealt with an ASUS AIMesh in the past at a client's location. It was nice and easy to configure until the mesh master node died. I had to reconfigure and re-pair all slave APs in the mesh after replacing the main router. Since I did not buy the exact model of the dead router (it was end-of-life) as the new main router, the configuration backed up from the former main router could not be restored into the new one and I had to reset all existing APs to factory settings and reconfigure everything from scratch.
ASUS is not the only company in this situation. In most consumer oriented mesh network, the main node becomes a single point of failure.
My router's WAN port died from a power surge. I set that puppy to AP mode and boom! It became the second access point for the opposite side of the house.
Fantastic tutorial.
Will the ISP supplied modem-router device (Router A) bog down a more capable Router B strength?
I plugged a router in another room haven’t changed any settings and it works what’s the point in these settings?
you should really just add a new access point. standalone access points are way better and buying a router access point combo is unnecessary. If you happen to have a 2nd combo router+wap laying around, sure you could do this, but just get a new wap.
What's wrong with getting a wifi extender. IDK.
Tomorrow is a special day.
Some routers support a repeater mode. That's much easier than running a wire between your main router and the secondary one. Sadly, not all do, or I wouldn't have just bought a Netgear extender. Should've included that possibility in your video, though.
much easier, but it usually halves your wifi speed - and often you get way less. Consider a powerline, also
powerlines are terrible, they literally do the opposite of what you want - introduce noise into your power grid
@merlozzo repeater mode halving the speeds also depends on antennas and frequency. If you use say 5ghz as your backhaul between routers and broadcast to your devices on 2.4ghz, then provided your base internet speeds are supported by the 2.4ghz connection you can still get full speed.
Halving comes when you have a single antenna/frequency being used for both backhaul and broadcast. Using a wire for a backhaul tends to eliminate most issues of halved speeds in these cases.
@@merlozzo ethernet over power is terrible, for the noise issue alone. You're also introducing a second potential path for surge into your network hardware.
@@kevingallant8073 Consider an internet of 200Mbps. On a 2.4 GHz network you will max out at max of 50Mbps for normal home gadgets. So a 5GHz backhaul does not help much.
Took me quite some time to get the "ItHurtsWhenIP". I almost died laughing
I feel so very very old now.
Use 2.4Gz routers if you have lots of walls in the area of coverage and 5Gz for routers that will stay within line-of-sight. Higher frequencies have higher speeds but less penetration and spread. Make sure the channels don't overlap for each router and neighboring ones as much as possible.
nice to see the inline 'sponsorship' has evolved into actual, impressionable adverts
You guys always create awesome content, keep up the good work 👍
I connected a wifi extender via wps.. and doesn't have the password anymore. Can i connect my extender via wire to an different/2nd router and use the wifi password of that 2nd router instead
I don't know if this is the case with all wifi networks, but I tend to get the best of both worlds with my wifi setup: devices will auto-switch between them after being given the password for one (though they will stay on the weaker one for a little too long), but they are also named differently, so you can connect to them manually if you want. I just connected my second router to the first via a very long ethernet cable, then when I went into its settings I was able to select an access point/repeater mode. No messing with hard-set local IP addresses.
For some time me and the rest of my family had our devices separated between two diferent routers, great if you're a control freak and if your single router cannot handle everyone's traffic simultaneously.
Don't even think about doing this with routers of the same brand that offer some form of meshing.
You can get two Huawei AX3s for about 80€ / $
would have been cool if you mentioned routers that have WDS (wireless distribution system), which a fair amount of even cheaper routers do, that will let you use wifi to connect the AP to the main instead of with a long network cable through lan ports, kinda like a mesh system.
And it is virtually useless, in fact you could well end up with a worse situation than you had before.
I just have a WAP dangling on the wall in the other room
Topic request: Whether you should buy paid Anti virus instead of using Windows Defender. There are tons of independent security companies/organizations/websites who claim the free Windows Defender is 100% as good as paid AV and in some cases even better than paid AV...
I just installed a Deco XE75/75 Pro system in my house. So now I have excellent coverage in every room of the house. It was super easy to set up. I didn't have to go through all this jargon they discussed. The router and app did all the work. 🙂
I tried this a while ago and found that it would screw up my google home products.
I think it was because when I tried to cast something (for example) from my phone, while connected to the other router it couldn't find the target google home product on my network and so showed that it was offline (greying out the device) because it was only looking for devices connected to that gateway IP.
Thats probably because you set both the routers to 'router' mode. The main router should be the only one running in 'router' mode. Other devices should be running as AP mode or dumb ap mode with DHCP service and firewall turned off.
@@nid274 I'll try it again, thanks.
i have 2 routers. my network is coax-modem-router-24 port switch-router.. i have one router for 6E and one router for 5ghz and 2.4ghz. no idea if this is the way youre supposed to hook it up but it works. My main pc in wired to the switch, my phone does 6E, my tv and laptops do 5ghz and my cameras do 2.4ghz.
DHCP doesn't direct traffic, that's ARPs job to map MACs into IPs for routing. DHCP is just a network service that can do this automatically. It doesn't even have to be on the router, and in larger networks it's not, instead DHCP forwarding is done to the DHCP server.
i think wifi people should slow down or target bigger updates... i updated wifi 5 not long ago, updated to 6 they already on 6e and 7.
LMG keep using the same(-looking) Wi-Fi Signal Strength App, but the Play Store is such a fucking mess of clones, I have never figured out which one it is. Anyone know?
very useful ty
The router in my house isn’t anywhere near my PC. I’m hoping if I do this and put the second router in my room, I can hook it to my PC with an Ethernet cable and have better speeds. Will this work?
My Ax10 easymesh doesn't work on Access Point mode that's why I use 3 dhcp 1 from isp,second from load balancer,3rd from tp link ax10
i think you should have explained IEEE 802.11k at least briefly? And the title should be "how to use an old router as an access point", no?
Overal good vid but you forgot to mention that you HAVE to exclude the ip of the secandary router from DHCP, so it won't get assigned.
Devices with static IP addresses should not be assigned an address covered by the DHCP pool. There are usually an unused range of IP address between the router's IP address (typically 192.168.X.1) and the first address of the DHCP pool.
what if I don't have access to the primary router
😂
u tryna say that your tenants are providing u with wifi under basement rent but wifi is slow so you want to access better speeds without bothering them. short answer is, confront them and ask for a second router. they usually dont mind if your relations with them are healthy
Can you use more than one usb dongles yk the wireless wifi adapters to speed up internet liek for example 5 on a phone or laptop can things be better same thing with ethernet, i wanna speed stuff up
Don't rely on picking an IP that's just not currently used. Adjust the DHCP range so it excludes some of the subnet, and put statically-assigned devices in the extra space.
Or whatever. I'm pretty sure no one actually uses these videos for real advice, at least not without doing some other research first.
And the key point here is that YOU DO NOT IN FACT EVER WANT MORE THAN ONE ROUTER. "Router" just doesn't mean what most people think it does. The second "router" is connected so that it only acts as an AP (this is almost entirely entirely glossed over, except for mentioning that some firmware has something called "AP mode." which is somewhat distinct from simply turning off DHCP in the more general case of what routers and APs do).
But again, I don't know why I'm pointing this out.
I guess we've all just given up on calling the all in one box provided by your ISP a "router," even when we are referring to it's Access Point capabilities. You could at least tell people the proper term as well.
I have a different issue and I wonder if anyone here can help.
I have four older computers that are powerful and pretty great for processing video etc. But they won't accept Windows 11. Is it possible to set them up on a 2nd router (ethernet only, no WiFi) and block ALL Internet traffic IN and OUT of that 2nd router? That way I can keep using them, and ALSO be able to access them from the rest of my home network. But they won't need Windows security updates. And there's no danger of them accidentally connecting to the Internet and downloading malware.
Otherwise I'll just set them up on an old router, with NO connection to my main network. So they can communicate with EACH OTHER, but not with any other systems directly, at all.
Why add the confusing definition? An "Access Point" is one thing, a "Router" is quite another. You aren't "Adding a SECOND Router!", you are adding an additional WIFI Access Point / Range Extender / Mesh Node. You still only have a SINGLE router! Now people will reference this saying "LMG said so". 🤯
Hey guys I got a question! I'm trying to help a family member with setting up the wifi. We currently just "upgraded" to AT-T Fiber, and use the BGW320 router from them. I recommend to buy the Asus 5700 router as well and put that in the middle of the house to boost the signal.
Anyway! My question is.
The AT&T router has a built in modem, but, to my knowledge, the Asus router does not have a modem. Would it be possible to do a set up like this? Or would I need to purchase a separate modem for the Asus? I spent like 2 hours trying to set up the router, but it did not want to work with me 🤣🤣
The way this video explains it, with most APs, *roaming* would not work this easily. Literally creating a 2nd access point would give you additional coverage but switching the connection between both access points will be manual. The specific technology your Wifi devices need t support are *802.11r and/or Wireless Distribution System (WDS)* . Wifi roaming is complicated and this video over simplifies it.