WOW, 42 degF it's an excellent supply air temp, almost freezing temp. Thanks for giving me ideas how to replace the insulation. I never took the time to check how to do it.
I did this and saw a significant improvement. I also insulated the liquid line from condenser to keep liquid from flashing back to gas before the orifice. You could also insulate the accumulator. I used a reflective wrap similar to what you did to evaporator. Got 35 degree air now
Insulating the accumulator makes sense, but why would you insulate the liquid line? Seems to me you'd want it to dissipate as much heat as possible? The liquid line is normally quite warm relative to the ambient temp, so it shouldn't absorb heat unless it runs close to something hot and it doesn't on these.
I'm glad to see you did this mod I suggested to you. And im very happy to see that the vent Temps dropped a few degrees and it was proven via a thermometer. I forgot to test it when I did it on my car and im happy to see it was not just my mind telling me the ac was colder lol. Keep up the good work Stevie!
Great job! I can't wait to do it on mine thank you and your viewer. I see that you added carpet very nice! You ever consider upgrading to a cluster with a tach?
Thanks man!🤙 Yup I did upgrade to carpet. I’m the future I may go back to vinyl. I would definitely like a tach cluster. The correct one for my truck are hard to find though.
Could ya do a video on the power window conversion? There’s like 2 other vids but they’re very poorly recorded/explained. I know you would do an amazing job!!
What will bring down the cabin temp is also having tinted windows … all states are different but for the windshield and two front windows 70% ceramic tint is great make sure it’s the 80% grade heat reduction film and go as dark as you want on the rear windows The ac on my car is at 40degrees and that’s without this small modification all I do is service the ac yearly
My dad did this on any car that had a large amount of metal tubing exposed on the low side. I was later told that this can cause freezing and liquid pooling of refrigerant in the tunes so, I haven't done it, however, I haven't tested any data on it and our ac was always cold In all our vehicles and I don't recall it ever failing. Edit: I'm referring to him doing it on vehicles that didn't come with it from factory at all.
Are you able to do a video on doors that are sagging? My passenger door has trouble closing and i haven't see on any good videos to replace the pin or fix it.
Unfortunately I replaced my pins before I started making videos for the channel. However, I have a few door issues I hope to get around too that might help ya out.🤙
@@Huntersvideos1776 Yes. My truck is 1995 F-150 XLS, white, with 112k miles, no major replacements, and original white paint except the top of the cab which I had to have repainted last year. I bought it for $7k in 2012 with only 86k miles, and am the 2nd owner. Everyone wants to buy it from me. I just tell them I'm gonna be buried in it. What about you?
Do you know what the max head pressure is supposed to be? I have a 92 5.8 and I think mine is around 55. Reason I'm asking is because my AC does not get Cold, its cool and while sitting it gets hot. I have replaced everything except the condenser. Also, there is not difference between normal and max AC for my truck. what could be wrong? Thoughts on anyone?
The low and high side pressures are dependent on ambient temp. The highest they will get should be vehicle at ambient temp with outside air on. There are charts for R134a and other refrigerants online that will tell you the range for the high and low side and they should fall into the range specified for the ambient temp.
Change out the condenser. The small passages in the internal tubes clog up over time. Once that happens, refrigerant flow is slowed down which affects the overall ability of the system to properly cool.
Are those just replacement springs with the same ride height? Or are those aftermarket with a lift? How does the truck ride now? is there a noticeable difference?
Those will be 2 inch lift coils. I actually haven’t had a chance to do anything with the lift kit yet. I probably won’t get around to the lift kit until October or November.
I am thinking of installing 4WD stock springs, and leaf’s in the back. MOOG parts, but I would like to fit a set of 35”x15”s I walked into for super super super cheap! My Ferd 250 is only 2wd, but I still want the 35’s for the clout😂
@@TheMinuteMasters I managed to squeeze a 305/60/18 under a stock height F250 (6600 GVW) with a set of 3/8 spacers. I have the same offset rim in 35x15x18” I am hoping they will go!
My 5.8 randomly dies coming to a stop/ or as im releasing the gas pedal....once truck is stopped can put it in park then refire and drive for a few mins then it does it again. Thought maybe fuelpump issue but it does it on front or rear tank. 1st time it happened was towing boat home and it died (16' aluminum so not very hevy) got truck towed to dealership because it didnt want to restart for me on highway Of course it fired up no problem for them and had no codes when checked at dealership. 380 diagnostic bill for no real relevant info other than it had no codes. Now problem seems more persistent died twice just trying to go around my neighborhood(died coming to a stop once and died letting off throttle once) Also did same thing on way to my dentist appointment 2 blocks away died twice same way. Sometimes I have time to notice revs dropping quickly before it dies other times it just cuts out before it even sputters. Any suggestions as where to start my own diagnosis? Or parts that could possible cause issues like this? evap purge solenoid???? Fuel pressure regulator? Throttle position sensor??ignition control module?
This is a tricky one. When was the last time you did an ignition tune up? Is your fuel filter new? How old are the fuel pumps? If no codes were thrown than it’s potential not sensor related. The fuel pressure regulator sounds like a likely culprit. The throttle position sensor is a good one to check or replace. What are the conditions of your vacuum lines? How does the truck idle when parked?
@TheMinuteMasters new distributor,ignition module few months back, ignition coil year or so ago, plug wires and sparkplugs where done awhile before that. Fuel filter is a few months old. Fuel pumps are original. Vacuum gauge hooked up to T thing on manifold is usually around 30 then drops when throttle applied if i remember correctly.seems to idle fine a Lil over 1000 then lowers to somewhere around 800 after a few moments then can Rev it up just fine.
No one can say you're not doing your bit to fight global warming. Nice tip. Thank you.
Thanks Jason!🤙 Good to hear from you!
I used did this to mine, actually worked pretty well. And it looks better than before.
(My AC is an old r12 system filled with air duster)
“I’ve laid tons of pipe.” That’s what he said
Listen: tis it is our duty as rightful Men of this planet to go forthward, and lay tons of pipe.
WOW, 42 degF it's an excellent supply air temp, almost freezing temp. Thanks for giving me ideas how to replace the insulation. I never took the time to check how to do it.
It sure is and I know guys with even colder AC!
You’re welcome!🤙
I did this and saw a significant improvement. I also insulated the liquid line from condenser to keep liquid from flashing back to gas before the orifice. You could also insulate the accumulator. I used a reflective wrap similar to what you did to evaporator. Got 35 degree air now
Nice! This is a cheap awesome mod and I’m glad you guys like it. Fill me in, what part is the accumulator?
@TheMinuteMasters the round can thing. Basically anything that sweats, insulate.
Insulating the accumulator makes sense, but why would you insulate the liquid line? Seems to me you'd want it to dissipate as much heat as possible? The liquid line is normally quite warm relative to the ambient temp, so it shouldn't absorb heat unless it runs close to something hot and it doesn't on these.
I'm glad to see you did this mod I suggested to you. And im very happy to see that the vent Temps dropped a few degrees and it was proven via a thermometer. I forgot to test it when I did it on my car and im happy to see it was not just my mind telling me the ac was colder lol. Keep up the good work Stevie!
Hey thanks man!🤙 I really appreciate you recommending this mod to me. It’s a hit so far and I’m loving the noticeable and scientifically colder AC.
Nice neat job Steve, came out very clean looking, the way you have your vacuum lines and the new insulation. Plus you have colder AC +++
Thanks Nick! I appreciate it!🤙 I’m happy the way it turned out.
I'm going to have to try this. I have a Bronco that runs cool not cold. Would make for a good test rig.
You should. I’d be curious if you get the same results. Plus your in HVAC.
Absolutely love this I'm going to do this mod tomorrow.
That's awesome! Definitely going to do this one. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks man!🤙
this is on my to-do list for my 87 f150 with the 5.0L....thx.
Great job! I can't wait to do it on mine thank you and your viewer. I see that you added carpet very nice! You ever consider upgrading to a cluster with a tach?
Thanks man!🤙 Yup I did upgrade to carpet. I’m the future I may go back to vinyl.
I would definitely like a tach cluster. The correct one for my truck are hard to find though.
I believe that sleeve is supposed to go where the 2 hangars are to prevent chafing of the return line.
This is the way.... Ford also did this to the heater core hose by the soup can. You are 100 correct. This is the way...
good to know. It’s never been under the hangers.
You should look into move bumpers pretty solid stuff looks great and won’t break you
Those are cool! But I’m pretty set on getting the prerunner bumper from Desolate Motorsports😁
@@TheMinuteMasters oh man I know, I’m loving that prerunner bumper. Next up for me is 4:10 gears for my front diff. I’ve already done the back.
Could ya do a video on the power window conversion? There’s like 2 other vids but they’re very poorly recorded/explained. I know you would do an amazing job!!
Currently, I don’t have any plans for a power window conversion but I’ll keep that in mind.
Nice work and thank you for sharing your positivity!👍
You’re welcome!
Awesome! 👍🏻
Here in Texas with 3 digits the past 70 days (103*) anything would help for cold cool temp.
Thanks 🙏 again Stev.
Damn that’s hot! Definitely! You’re welcome!🤙
Also a dirty orfice tube and clogged dryer could make a difference if replaced
I’ll have to look into this further. Another area of the AC worth improving.
Awesome video as always stevie great work.
Thanks Terry!🤙 I appreciate it.
Neat. Thanks for doing all this stuff.
Cool tip I’ll do this to my 96f250 and 89bronco No AC on the 68 ranger just roll windows
What will bring down the cabin temp is also having tinted windows … all states are different but for the windshield and two front windows 70% ceramic tint is great make sure it’s the 80% grade heat reduction film and go as dark as you want on the rear windows
The ac on my car is at 40degrees and that’s without this small modification all I do is service the ac yearly
I had ceramic tint installed almost two years ago and that did make a huge difference.
I actually did that as well, but I need to redo it
Cool. Thank you.
My dad did this on any car that had a large amount of metal tubing exposed on the low side. I was later told that this can cause freezing and liquid pooling of refrigerant in the tunes so, I haven't done it, however, I haven't tested any data on it and our ac was always cold In all our vehicles and I don't recall it ever failing.
Edit: I'm referring to him doing it on vehicles that didn't come with it from factory at all.
Interesting. So the factory allow for no insulation to ensure freezing and pooling wouldn’t occur.
Thank you !
that is great I will go to do it
Are you able to do a video on doors that are sagging? My passenger door has trouble closing and i haven't see on any good videos to replace the pin or fix it.
Unfortunately I replaced my pins before I started making videos for the channel. However, I have a few door issues I hope to get around too that might help ya out.🤙
Why did I think it was a live stream 😂 when it was a premiere lol
I'm glad it doesn't mean anything. I don't have anything formal to wear.
@@borderlineiq lol you got a obs ?
@@Huntersvideos1776 Yes. My truck is 1995 F-150 XLS, white, with 112k miles, no major replacements, and original white paint except the top of the cab which I had to have repainted last year. I bought it for $7k in 2012 with only 86k miles, and am the 2nd owner. Everyone wants to buy it from me. I just tell them I'm gonna be buried in it. What about you?
Did you get my comment?
1996 f350 check me out! Channel
Did the 95 get r134a? I'm over in Texas with a 91 f150 with absolutely no AC, still cant get enough of driving it.
Yup! I have R134a
Could having aluminum foam pipe insulation work a little bit better then regular foam
It could. I went with what was readily available.
Did you get 6 feet in length for the 3/4 inch piece?
I bought 6 foot lengths of both 1/2 and 3/4. That’s the only lengths they had.
I’ve laid tons of pipe. XD
This premier bs drives me nuts.
Origin to insertion
Do you know what the max head pressure is supposed to be? I have a 92 5.8 and I think mine is around 55. Reason I'm asking is because my AC does not get Cold, its cool and while sitting it gets hot. I have replaced everything except the condenser.
Also, there is not difference between normal and max AC for my truck. what could be wrong? Thoughts on anyone?
The low and high side pressures are dependent on ambient temp. The highest they will get should be vehicle at ambient temp with outside air on. There are charts for R134a and other refrigerants online that will tell you the range for the high and low side and they should fall into the range specified for the ambient temp.
Make sure your fan clutch is good, also make sure your recirculation vacuum pod is closing when set on max air ( it's on top of the heaterbox )
Unfortunately I don’t know the max head pressure. The answers below are good and worth chasing down.
Change out the condenser. The small passages in the internal tubes clog up over time. Once that happens, refrigerant flow is slowed down which affects the overall ability of the system to properly cool.
Are those just replacement springs with the same ride height? Or are those aftermarket with a lift? How does the truck ride now? is there a noticeable difference?
Those will be 2 inch lift coils. I actually haven’t had a chance to do anything with the lift kit yet. I probably won’t get around to the lift kit until October or November.
I am thinking of installing 4WD stock springs, and leaf’s in the back. MOOG parts, but I would like to fit a set of 35”x15”s I walked into for super super super cheap!
My Ferd 250 is only 2wd, but I still want the 35’s for the clout😂
@@iamgriff that could work!
@@TheMinuteMasters I managed to squeeze a 305/60/18 under a stock height F250 (6600 GVW) with a set of 3/8 spacers. I have the same offset rim in 35x15x18” I am hoping they will go!
My 5.8 randomly dies coming to a stop/ or as im releasing the gas pedal....once truck is stopped can put it in park then refire and drive for a few mins then it does it again. Thought maybe fuelpump issue but it does it on front or rear tank.
1st time it happened was towing boat home and it died (16' aluminum so not very hevy) got truck towed to dealership because it didnt want to restart for me on highway
Of course it fired up no problem for them and had no codes when checked at dealership. 380 diagnostic bill for no real relevant info other than it had no codes.
Now problem seems more persistent died twice just trying to go around my neighborhood(died coming to a stop once and died letting off throttle once)
Also did same thing on way to my dentist appointment 2 blocks away died twice same way.
Sometimes I have time to notice revs dropping quickly before it dies other times it just cuts out before it even sputters.
Any suggestions as where to start my own diagnosis? Or parts that could possible cause issues like this? evap purge solenoid???? Fuel pressure regulator? Throttle position sensor??ignition control module?
This is a tricky one.
When was the last time you did an ignition tune up? Is your fuel filter new? How old are the fuel pumps?
If no codes were thrown than it’s potential not sensor related.
The fuel pressure regulator sounds like a likely culprit.
The throttle position sensor is a good one to check or replace.
What are the conditions of your vacuum lines? How does the truck idle when parked?
@TheMinuteMasters new distributor,ignition module few months back, ignition coil year or so ago, plug wires and sparkplugs where done awhile before that. Fuel filter is a few months old. Fuel pumps are original. Vacuum gauge hooked up to T thing on manifold is usually around 30 then drops when throttle applied if i remember correctly.seems to idle fine a Lil over 1000 then lowers to somewhere around 800 after a few moments then can Rev it up just fine.
@@FAKE-NAME I’d check the fuel pressure at the rail with a gauge. That should rule out the pumps.
I’d clean your MAF too.
That's pretty "cool" Steve..
System pressures should always be checked when making modifications.
You didn't.
I don’t understand. I add insulation to a pipe and now I need to check system pressures? How so?
@@TheMinuteMasters You changed system temperatures which changes system pressures.